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TRAVELS
IN
RUSSIA,
THE KlilMEA, THE CAUCASUS,
AND
GEORGIA.
By ROBERT LYALL, M.D. F.L.S.
MEMBER OP THE ROYAL ASIATIC SOCIETY OF LONDON ; OF THE WERNERIAN
NATURAL HISTORY SOCIETY OF EDINBURGH;
CORRESPONDING MEMBER OF THE LITERARY AND PHILOSOPHICAL SOCIETY, AND OF
THE NATURAL HISTORY SOCIETY, OF MANCHESTER ;
MEMBER OF THE IMPERIAL SOCIETIES OF AGRICULTURE AND NATURAL HISTORY,
AND OP THE PHYSICO-MEDICAL SOCIETY, AT MOSCOW ;
&C. &C. &C.
IX TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. I.
LONDON:
PRINTED FOR T. CADELL, IN THE STRAND;
AND W. BLACKWOOD, EDINBURGH.
182 . 5 .
DK
25
Lq?
v- /
/
PREFACE.
A year ago, when I published “ The Character
of the Russians, and A Detailed History of Mos-
cow,” I expressed the deepest solicitude with
respect to the reception of that work by the
British public, whose character and opinion I shall
ever venerate. I also stated, that by its judgment
I must decide, whether or not I should continue
my literary labours. Encouraged by the kind
reception of that volume, I soon afterwards
published, “An Account of the Organization,
Administration, and Present State of the Military
Colonies in Russia,” a pamphlet which met with
general notice. Animated to new exertions, by
VI
PREFACE.
these circumstances, I again venture to solicit
indulgence for the present volumes.
I owe it as a duty to myself to state, that whilst
I have been publicly accused of severity to the
Russians, my best friends have blamed me for
partiality towards them, and “overstrained en¬
deavours to advocate their causeand that of
the two divisions of the Quarto, the first, “The
Character of the Russians,” has been chiefly ap¬
proved at home ; while the second, “ A Detailed
History of Moscow,” has been most distinguished
on the Continent.
After a residence of a number of years in Rus¬
sia, and having become familiar with the language,
the customs, and the manners of its inhabitants
(i. e. the real Russians), I most ardently sought
an opportunity of travelling through the south of
that extensive empire. I had even made consider¬
able preparations for such a journey, by examining
and translating the best Russian accounts of the
country, towns, villages, &c. which I calculated
on seeing. While almost despairing to accomplish
PREFACE.
Vll
this purpose, my desire was unexpectedly gratified.
Two Italian noblemen, Marquis Pucci and Count
Salazar, and an English gentleman, Edward Pen-
rhyn Esq. who arrived at Moscow in 1822, being
about to undertake a journey to the southern pro¬
vinces of Russia, and being desirous of engaging
a person to accompany them, who might remedy
the inconvenience they apprehended from not
understanding the language, and supply the want
of medical advice in a country where the pre¬
valence of intermittent fevers might render it
particularly necessary, I was engaged by the party
in the double capacity of conductor of the journey
and physician. In justice to these gentlemen, as
well as to myself, I ought to state that they
made no contributions to my MSS. The observ¬
ations and opinions are my own, and I beg to
have it distinctly understood, that I alone am
responsible for every sentence in the work. This
I think it necessary to declare, because the Em¬
peror Alexander has expressed his disapprobation
of my Quarto; and said, that “ it is hostile to
Russia, and written against his government, and
the whole Russian nationand because His
a 4
via
PREFACE,
Imperial Majesty is also highly offended at my
having dedicated that work to him. But I can con¬
scientiously say that no individual feels less of hos¬
tility to Russia than I do, and whoever has read
that volume with an unbiassed mind, will be of
opinion that I have been most anxious to do
justice to the Russians. While I have boldly
spoken my mind with regard to their imperfections,
their errors, and their vices, I have not withheld
my esteem for their virtues or their good qualities.
I have uniformly protected virtue and religion,
and as regularly held up immorality and wicked¬
ness to ridicule and detestation. If, from the facts
recorded in “ The Character of the Russians,”
and in these volumes, the public should be of
opinion, contrary to me, that the sum total of
vice—if I may so express myself—which attaches
to this people, is as great as Dr. Clarke represented,
I most seriously beg that they will, at least, re¬
mark, that I have placed their deficiencies and
vices in their proper places, whilst I have ad¬
mitted every redeeming light, to enliven the gloomy
groundwork of the picture. I formerly pleaded
impartiality and truth, and ifj in their cause, I
PREFACE.
IX
have not obtained the good opinion of His Impe¬
rial Majesty Alexander, I am sorry for it. I should
have been highly pleased with the approbation of
a Sovereign who may be esteemed the greatest
blessing and ornament of his country. *
The disapprobation of my works by the Rus¬
sians was expected. I, of course, allude to the
higher classes of society. The mass of the popu¬
lation, the peasantry, will probably never hear of
my name, although they have attracted much
of my attention. Their condition, as slaves, will
ever deeply interest the Christian, the philan¬
thropist, and the statesman, and I flatter myself
that I have represented it in a new and true
light.
The present work is entitled, “ Travels, &c.”
but it ought to be mentioned, that, besides the
observations made en route, I have inserted many
others which I had accumulated previous to the
journey, and, besides, I have added some intelli-
-* Vide his character, &c. p. 120 . of Vol. II.
\
MIEFACE.
gence received since my arrival in London, above
a year ago, as well as alluded to different com¬
munications which have appeared in the public
gazettes; so as to bring up our knowledge of
Russia to the present day.
As I formed one of a party, I have often used
the pronoun we, because it seemed unnatural or
affected to use the first personal pronoun singular,
while others were present. On other occasions I
put we, because I suppose that the reader accom¬
panies me, and joins in my opinion. But whether
we or I be used, it must always be understood
that I advance my own sentiments.
In the orthography of Russian words, I have
followed the rules laid down in the “ Preliminary
Dissertation on the Russian Language,” which
precedes the “ History of Moscow.” The grand
regulation, which I have adopted, has been to
combine such letters of the English alphabet as
shall produce, as nearly as possible, the sound of
the original words, most of which I have accented,
so as to be still more useful to the traveller.
PREFACE.
XI
I could have wished that our journey had been
of longer duration, but, at the same time, it must
be remembered, that travelling in Russia is not
like traversing the classic ground of Greece and
Italy, or even most countries of Europe, in which
objects worthy of description, continually present
themselves. With the exception of the Krimea, and
the opposite shores of the Cimmerian Bosphorus, we
met with little that recalled associations with the
Greeks or the Romans. Interesting objects lie
widely scattered in the vast empire of Russia,
and the traveller is generally contented to gallop
over the ground which separates them with all
possible rapidity.
I cannot conclude this Preface, without ex¬
pressing my gratitude for numerous marks of
kindness and attention to many individuals in
Russia, whose names it would be imprudent to
mention. Russian hospitality I can never forget,
and to Russian liberality I am indebted for much
information. Those who have placed their secrets,
and perhaps their happiness, in my hands may rest
assured that they shall never be betrayed. In as
Xll
PREFACE.
far as respects the Russians, I bear them no ill-
will, though I like but few of them. I shall always
remember their good as well as their bad qualities,
and I sincerely wish their reformation. Every
Christian bosom must desire their improvement in
morals, the best evidence to man of a well-founded
religion.
ROBERT LYALL.
45 . Hat/market, London ,
December 24 . 1824 .
CONTENTS
OF
THE FIRST VOLUME.
Page
CHAPTER I.
Departure from Mos¬
cow . 1
Koldmenskoyd . 3
Tsaritsin . tb.
Poddlsk. 4
Graven Images. 5
Russian Clergy. 6
Catharine II. and Count
Momonof . 7
Selo Moiodi. 10
Criticism on Dr. Clarke... 11
Lapasna . 13
Sunday Market. 14
Semeonovskoye .. 15
Russian Character and
Manners . 17
General Nastchdkin . 20
Mineral Waters of Se-
meonovskoyd . 24
Curiosity of the Russians 28
Sdrpuchof .. 29
Page
Curious Customs at Sdr-
puchof. 32
The River Oka . 33
Zavodi. — Voshan. — Vo-
ldtya . 34
Postmaster’s Trick . 35
Tula. 36
Arm-Fabric at Tula . 39
CHAP. II.
Coal Mines at Tula . 47
Arsenal at Tula. 48
Anecdotes . 49
Houses of the Russian
Peasants. 51
Yasnaya Polyana . 52
Villas of the Russian
Nobles . 53
Mtsensk . 54
Orel. 55
Bookselling Trick . 57
Commerce of Orel. 59
Xiv
CONTENTS.
Page
Sevsk . 60
; Little Russia. 61
Russian Villages. ib.
Dirtiness of the Rus¬
sians . 62
Gluchof. 63
Obstinacy of the Rus¬
sians. 64
Baturin . 65
Anecdote . 68
Nejin. 70
Ndsovka_Kozari . 72
Brovari..... 73
The Dneper.—View of
Kief . 75
Keys to the Hearts of
the Russians. 77
Spread of liberal Opi¬
nions . 81
History of Kief... 82
Animal Magnetism . 89
Tribunals at Kief.. 90
Corruption of Civil Ad¬
ministration through¬
out Russia. 91
Instance of Injustice ... 92
Captain Cochrane’s Evi¬
dence. 95
Instances of Injustice... 97
CHAP. III.
Punishment of Malefac¬
tors at Kief . 102
Divisions of Kief.. 104
Fortress at Kief. 105
Arsenal at Kief. ib.
Institution for the male
Orphans of Soldiers
at Kief. 106
The Petcherskoi Mo¬
nastery at Kief. 107
The Military Hospital
at Kief. Ill
The Theatre at Kief ... ib.
Old Kief.— The Podolc 112
Page
Conclusion . 113
Departure from Kief ... ib.
Vassilkof . 114
Imposition of Post-Mas¬
ters and Modes of Re¬
dress. 115
Anecdote. ib.
Bdghoslavle.—Korstin 117
Zvenigdrodka. 118
Roguery of the Jews ... 119
Distilleries. 120
Colonisation of the Jews 121
Singular Custom of the
Jews. 122
Urn an . 123
Sophievka. 126
Countess Pototskii. 127
The Polish Poet Trem-
b£skii. 130
Kholovfnska. 132
Arrival at Boghopole ... 134
Russian Stewards . 135
Recruit of the Russian
Army. 139
Count Ozerdvskii. 142
Description of Bogho¬
pole . 143
Konstantinovka . 144
Russian Cavalry. 145
Alexandrovka. 149
Voznesensk. 150
New System of Military
Colonisation. 152
Rapidity of Travelling
in Russia. 153
Odessa.«... 156
CHAP. IV.
Account of the Rise and
Progress of Odessa... 151
Obstacles to the Increase
of Odessa.... 168
Situation and Architec¬
ture of Odessa. 170
Description of Odessa... 171
CONTENTS,
XV
Page
Limestone at Odessa .... 173
Plants at Odessa. 174
Public Gardens atOdessa ib .
English Club atl Odessa 175
Lycee-Richelieu at O-
dessa. ib.
Seminaries for Females
at Odessa. 178
Town-Hospital at Odessa 179
Police-Office at Odessa 181
Theatre at Odessa. 182
The Assembly - Rooms
and Exchange at O-
d^ssa. 183
The Cathedral and
Churches at Odessa ib.
The Quarantine at O-
d£ssa. 184
English Races at Odessa ib.
Agricultural Establish¬
ment at Odessa. 185
Commerce of Odessa ... ib.
Frauds at the Custom¬
house of Odessa. 186
Fancy-work in Russia... 187
Population of Odessa ... 188
Odessa a Free Port. 191
Impolitic Conduct of the
Russian Government 192
Present Measures re¬
specting Odessa. ib.
Anecdotes. 193
Departure from Odessa 194
Cobley. 195
Olbia. 196
Phedorovka. 197
Arrival at Nikolaef. 198
Lodging selected by the
Police. 199
Admiral Greig.. 200
Description of Nikolaef 201
Depot de Cartes and
Museum at Nikolaef 202
The Docks at Nikolaef 293
Spaskii. 204
Population of Nikolaef 206
Page
Departure from Nikolaef 206
Kherson. — Howard’s
Monument . 207
Cause of Howard’s death 210
CHAP. V.
Description of Kherson 212
The Fortress at Kherson 213
The Tomb of Prince Po¬
tyemkin. 214
The Admiralty at Kher¬
son. 215
The Greek School at
Kherson . 216
The Military Suburb at
Kherson. ib.
Population at Khersdn ib.
Disadvantages of Kher¬
son. 217
Present State of Kher¬
son. 218
Kabaks in Russia. ib.
Departure from Kher¬
son./. ib.
The River Ingulets. ib.
Plants in the South of
Russia... 219
Tartars with Burchas... 220
Berislaf.. 221
Ferries of the Dn£per... ib.
Amusing Scene . 222
Passage of the Dneper... 223
Kachovka. ib.
Perekop. 224
The Fortress of Perekop 226
The Armenian Baz&r... 227
The Salt-Lakes of the
Krimea... 228
A foolish Practice. 231
Anecdotes of a Tartar... 232
Gusla, a Tartar Village 233
Dyurmen. 234
Degeneracy of the Kri-
mean Tartars . 235
The Emperor Alexander 236
XVI
CONTENTS.
Page
Sarabuze. 237
Sultan Katti - Gherri
Krim -Gharri . 238
Sympheropole. 239
Fine Cathedral at Sym¬
pheropole . 241
Present State of Sym¬
pheropole.... 243
Climate of Sympheropole 244
A Tartar Coffee-House 245
Mahomedan Worship... 247
Mr. Steven, the Natu¬
ralist . 248
Madame Pallas.. 249
Locusts at Symphero¬
pole. 251
A Tartar Firman . ib.
Sabla, the Estate of Mr.
Borozdin. 253
Cloth - Manufactory of
Mr. Borozdin. 254
Arrival in the Palace of
Baktchiserai. 255
CHAP. VI.
The Palace of Baktchi¬
serai . 257
Mausoleums of the
Khans of the Krimea 259
Renovation of the Palace
of Baktchiserai. 260
Description of Baktchi¬
serai . ib.
Population of Baktchi¬
serai . 263
Tchufut-Kale. 265
The Karaite Jews . 266
Costume of the Karaite
Jews... 267
Synagogues of the Ka¬
raite Jews. ib.
Mausoleum and Roman¬
tic History of the
Daughter of Takta-
nush. 268
The Jewish Cemetery
near Tchufut-Kale ... 271
The Greek Monastery
near Baktchiserai. 272
The Influence of the
Imagination. 273
Dress of the Karaite
Jews. 274
Divine Service of the
Karaite Jews. 275
The Scotch Missionary
at Baktchiserai. ib.
The Merchants of Bak¬
tchiserai. 276
Journey from Baktchi¬
serai to Sevastopole... 277
The Caverns of Inker-
man. 278
Insalubrity of the Air of
the Valley of Inker-
man . 283
Saltpetre Manufactory 284
Locusts in the Krimea 285
Arrival at Sev&stopole 286
Anecdote... 287
Admiral Bail lie. ib.
Roguery at Sevastopole 288
Collection of Cats......... 290
The Bay of Sevastopole ib.
The Fleet of the Black
Sea. ; . 291
Description of Sevasto¬
pole. 292
Population of Sevasto¬
pole . 293
CHAP. VII.
Departure from Sevas¬
topole. 295
Service of the Tartars 296
Ancient Chersonesus ... 297
St. George’s Monastery 299
The Vale of Balaklava 300
Colonel Revolioti . 301
CONTENTS.
XVII
Page
Balaklava.—Greek Sol¬
diers. 302
Conquest of the Krimea 303
The Russian Army. ib.
The Fortress of Balak¬
lava . 305
The Port of Balaklava 306
Mountain Roads. 307
The Valley of Baidar... ib.
The Village of Baidar... 309
The Pass of Meerdveen 310
The South Coast of the
Krimea. 311
Kutchuk-Koi. — Kike-
nis. 312
Amusements. 313
Simaeus. 314
Alyupka... 315
Tartar Villages, and Tar¬
tar Houses, in the Kri¬
mea. 316
Subjection of the Kri-
mean Tartars . 319
Yalta. 320
A Greek Monastery. 321
Nikita. 322
Nikita Botanic Garden 323
Yursuf.—Ayu-Dagh... 326
Kutchuk-Lampat. 327
Schistus. ib,
Alushta. 328
Kuru-Uzen. 329
Kutchuk-Uzen. 330
Arrival at Uskut. 331
Tartar Worship. 332
Tchuban-K&le. 334
Kapsochdr. ib,
Kutlak. 335
CHAP. VIII.
The Vale of Sudak. 336
The Imperial Vineyards
at Sudak . 337
The Castle of Sudak ... 338
vol. i. a
Page
Depopulation ol the
Krimea. 340
Insecurity of Property
in the Krimea. 341
Corrupt Civil Adminis¬
tration in the Kri¬
mea . 342
Creed in Russian Legis¬
lation. 343
The Emperor Alexander 344
Population of the Kri¬
mea . 345
Classes of the Popula¬
tion of the Krimea... 346
Character of the Tartars
of the Krimea. 348
Colonies in the Krimea ib.
The Literature of the
Tartars. 349
Their Poetry. 350
Their Geography. ib.
Their Medicine.. 351
Their Public Schools... 352
Taraktash. — Suuk-Su 353
Elbuzli. 354
Tilling in the Krimea.... 355
Karassubazar. ib .
Commerce of Karassu¬
bazar. 356
Fortress-like Khan at
Karassubazar. 357
Manufactures of Karas¬
subazar. ib.
Population of Karassu¬
bazar . 358
Trinity Sunday. ib.
Depot of Medicines in
the Krimea. 359
Extraordinary Anecdote ib.
Civil Medical Staff in
Russia. 360
Cemeteries of the Tar¬
tars . ib.
Desolation of the Krimea 361
Anecdote. — Drive in
TeRgas. 862
xviii
CONTENTS.
Page
Thunder-storm at Sym-
pheropole. 364
Arrival at K&ffa. 365
Anecdote. — Ancient
Mosque. ib.
Appearance of KafFa. 366
The Bay of KafFa. ib.
Description of KafFa. 367
Population of KafFa. 368
Quarantine at KafFa. 369
Commerce of KafFa. 371
Museum of KafFa. ib.
Coins at KafFa. 372
CHAP. IX.
Departure from KafFa... 374
Kertch. ib.
Population of Kertch... 375
Admiralty at Kertch ... 376
Fortress and Antiquities
at Kertch. ib.
Researches of M. de
Bracks at Kertch. 377
Mementos of Mithri-
dates at Kertch. ib.
New Port, Quarantine,
and Plan of Kertch... 378
Departure from Kertch 379
Military Encampment... ib.
Yemkale. — Its Fortress 380
Disappointment in the
Passage of the Bos¬
phorus . ib.
Return to Kertch. 381
Second Departure from
Kertch. ib.
Passage of the Bospho¬
rus. ib.
The Island of Taman ... 382
Phanagorii. 384
Church at Taman. 385
Antiquities at Taman ... ib.
Passion of Destruction
of the Russians. 386
Page
The Stone of Tmutara-
kan. 387
The Town of Tam&n ... ib.
The Tchbrnomorskii Ko¬
zaks . 388
The Forces of Taman... 389
Classic Ground. ib.
Tumuli. — Bughas. 390
Sbnnaya. 391
Perepiska. 392
Dreary Drivein the Ku¬
ban . ib.
Russian Deception. 393
Temriik. 394
Arrival at Kurtchanskaya ib.
A Vishka , or Observatory 395
Andrievskoi Redoubt ... ib.
Fortresses, and Piquets,
in the Kuban . 396
Descent of the Circas¬
sians. 397
Kopil. — The Tchernoi-
Protbk... 398
Kopanskaya. ib.
Arrival at Yekatennodar 399
Quarantine of Yekaten¬
nodar. 400
A Circassian Prince and
his Suite. ib.
Presents to the Circas¬
sians . 402
Manoeuvres of the Cir¬
cassians. 403
Prison at Yekatennodar 404
Fortress at Yekatenno¬
dar . ib.
Cathedral at Yekatenno¬
dar. ib.
Circassian Prisoners. 405
Description of Yekater-
mod&r . ib.
Population of Yekaten¬
nodar. 406
The Ataman of the
Tchernombrskii Ko¬
zaks. ib.
CONTENTS.
XIX
The Tchernomorskii Ko¬
zaks . 407
Departure from Yeka-
terinodar. 412
Villages in the Kuban... ib.
Tumuli in the Kuban... ib.
The Grebenski Kozaks 413
Ust Labmskaya. 414
Wild Plants in the Kuban 415
Stavropole. ib.
Roguery of Post-Mas¬
ters. 416
Nadejda. ib.
Beshpaghlr . 417
Views in the Caucasus... ib.
Arrival at Georgievsk... 418
Saith Satoon. ib.
Mortality of the Gover¬
nors of Georgievsk... 419
Count Gorskii. ib.
Intermittent Fevers. 420
Description of Geor-
gievsk . ib.
Arrival at the Scotch
Colony, Karass. 421
CHAP. X.
Description of Karass... 423
Military Guard at Karass 424
Diseases at Karass. 425
The Rev. Mr. Brunton ib.
Government of Karass 427
Lands of Karass. ib.
Culture at Karass. 428
Potatoes at Karass. ib.
Religious Opinions of
the Mahomedan Neigh¬
bours of Karass. 429
Intended Baptism of an
Ossetinian. 433
Ransomed Mountaineers ib.
Visit to the Mountain
Beshtau. 434
View of Mount Cauca¬
sus........ 435
Return to Karass.
Reception by Mr. Jack
Konstantinogorsk.
General Desbout.
Departure from Kon¬
stantinogorsk.
The Podkuma.
Kislavodskii.
Acidulous Springs at
Kislavodskii.
Delicacy of the Rus¬
sians.
Mount Elborus.
Warm Springs at Kon¬
stantinogorsk.
Warm Baths at Konstan¬
tinogorsk .
The Hill Mestchucha...
Description of Konstan¬
tinogorsk .
Visit to a Circassian Vil-
lage .. ; . v -
Repast at a Circassian
Noble’s.
A Noble Whip-Maker
Presents to Circassian
Nobles.
Probable Utility of Mr.
Jack.
Mountain Tribes of the
Caucasus.
Artifice of the Moun¬
taineers.
Mahomedanism.
Friendly Circassians.
Mountaineers in the
Russian Service.
Return to Georgievsk...
Departure from Geor-
gievsk .
Dell near Pavlovskaya
Yekaterinograd.
Pavlodolskoye.
Amusing Scene.
Mozdok.
Population of Mozdok
a
9
Page
436
ib.
ib.
ib.
437
ib.
438
439
440
441
442
443
444
ib.
445
446
447
ib.
448
ib.
449
ib.
450
451
452
ib.
ib.
453
ib.
ib.
454
ib.
XX
CONTENTS.
Page
Commerce of Mozdok 455
Streets and Houses of
Mozdok. ib.
Departure from Mozdok 456
The Terek... ib .
Redoubt of Alexander ib .
Composition of a Caravan 457
Departure from Alex¬
ander’s Redoubt. 458
Banishment of the Tchit-
chentsi. 459
Redoubt of Constantine 460
Redoubt of Elizabeth... 461
Vladikavkaz. .462
Fortress at Vladikavkaz 463
Shops at Vladikavkaz... 464
Departure from Vladi¬
kavkaz . ib.
Beautiful Defile . 465
Maksimkina... 466
Defile of Lars „. ib.
Village of Lars. ib.
Defile of Dari el . 467
CHAP. XI.
Defile of Dariel . 469
View of the Caucasus... ib .
Subterranean Road. 470
The Terek... ib.
Improvements of Roads
in the Caucasus . 471
The Fortress of Dariel ib.
The Ancient Castle of
Dariel. 472
Mountain Tribes of the
Caucasus. 473
Impolitic Conduct of
Russia. 474
Village of Kazbek. 475
Inhabitants of Kazbek 476
Mountain of Kazbek ... ib.
Cathedral of Kazbek. 477
Mount Zion. ib.
Kobi. 478
Departure from Kobi... 479
Page
Alpine Plauts. 479
Mineral Springs... 480
An Avalanche. ib*
The Hill Bi-Gora. 481
The Mountain of the
Cross. 482
Ascent of the Goot-Gora 483
Criticisms.. ib.
Basaltic Rock. 484
Descent of the Goot-
Gora. ib.
Kashaur—Military Sta¬
tions...... ib.
Fare for Horses in the
Caucasus. ib.
Complaint of the Ko¬
zaks . 485
Teiilutians... ib.
A Cat their Oracle. ib.
Singular Punishment... 486
Collection of Taxes. ib.
The Aragua,. 487
Conduct of an Osseti-
nian. ib.
The Vale of Passananoor 488
The Fort of Passana¬
noor . ib.
The Quarantine of Ana-
noor. 489
The Fortress of Ana-
noor . 490
The Church of Ana-
noor. ib.
New Quarantine . 491
The Castle of Dushet... ib.
The Town of Dushet ... 492
i Ploughing in Georgia... ib.
The Vale of Aragua ... ib.
Khartiskarst. — Msket 493
The Koor. 494
The Cathedral of Msket 495
Introduction of Chris¬
tianity into Georgia 496
The Tsars of Georgia... 497
Anecdote. 498
Passage of the Caucasus ib.
CONTENTS.
XXI
Page
CHAP. XII.
Roman Bridge over the
Koor. 504-
Caverns near Msket. 506
Remarkable Change of
Scenery. ib.
View of Tiflis. 507
Arrival at Tiflis . ib .
Lodgings at Tiflis. 508
General Yermolof. ib*
General Vilyeminof.. 509
Mr. Grabaritch. ib .
History of Tiflis.. 510
Derivation of its Name 511
Situation of Tiflis. ib*
Population of Tiflis. ib.
Divisions of Tiflis. 512
Appearance of Tiflis... 513
Streets and Houses of
Tiflis. 514-
BoordooJcs of Wine. 515
Current Money at Tiflis 516
The Bazars at Tiflis... ib.
Caravansarais at Tiflis 517
Page
General Yermolof’s
House. 518
The Arsenal at Tiflis ... ib.
The Public Gardens at
Tiflis. ib.
The Depot de Cartes at
Tiflis..'.. ib.
New Square at Tiflis ... 519
Anecdote. ib.
The Castle of Tiflis. 520
The Suburb, Avlabari... 521
Old Fortress of Tiflis... ib.
The Crown-Baths at
Tiflis. 522
Champooing at Tiflis ... 523
Luxury of the Tiflis
Baths. ib.
Temperature of the
Warm Springs of
Tiflis. 524-
Their General Nature... 525
Mineralogieal Remarks ib.
Singular Diversion. 526
Corruption of Morals... ib.
An Albinos. 527
LIST or THE VIGNETTES
IN
THE FIRST VOLUME.
CHAPTER L
No. ^ Page
1. A Russian Officer Travelling in a Telega. 1
CHAP. II.
2. Russian Travelling in Winter. — Mode of Drawing
Water. — Costumes of the Peasants. 46
CHAP. III.
3. A View of Odessa, with its Cathedral in the Centre... 102
CHAP. IV.
4. The Plan of Odessa. 157
CHAP. V.
5. A Russian Kabak, or Tippling-house . 211
CHAP. VI.
6. Mausoleums of the Khans of the Krimea at Baktchi-
serai. 257
CHAP. VII.
7. The Mountain Ayu-Dagh, and the Village Yursuf, in
the Krimea. 294
CHAP. VIII.
8. The Vale of Sudak. 336
CHAP. IX.
9. A Vishka , or Observatory, in the Kuban . 373
CHAP. X.
10. Warm Baths at Konstantmogdrsk, and Kalmuk Kibitkas 422
CHAP. XI.
11. The Ancient Castle of Dariel, and the Bridge of the
Terek. 468
CHAP. XII.
12. Roman Bridge and Towers, on the Koor, in Georgia... 504
Lately published ,
BY THE SAME AUTHOR,
Jn one large volume 4to, Price 4/. 45. boards, with a Plan,
and numerous Engravings, by Edward Finden,
THE CHARACTER OF THE RUSSIANS,
AND A
DETAILED HISTORY OF MOSCOW.
With a Dissertation on the Russian Language: and an Appen¬
dix, containing Tables, Political, Statistical, and Historical;
an Account of the Imperial Agricultural Society of Moscow;
a Catalogue of Plants found in and near Moscow ; an Essay
on the Origin and Progress of Architecture in Russia, &c. &c.
Also, a Pamphlet, Price 2s. 6d.
AN ACCOUNT
OF
THE ORGANIZATION, ADMINISTRATION, AND
PRESENT STATE
OF THE
MILITARY COLONIES IN RUSSIA,
With an Appendix, containing Statistical Tables, &c. & c.
London : Printed for T. Cadell, in the Strand; and
W. Blackwood, Edinburgh.
Just printed for the Author , and to be had at 45. Hay mar let,
AN ANSWER
TO
i THE observations on the above works
CONTAINED IN
No. 81. of the Quarterly Review.
CHAPTER I.
DEPARTURE FROM MOSCOW. — KOLOMENSKOYE.—TSARITSIN.
— PODOLSK. — GRAVEN IMAGES. — CATHARINE II. AND
COUNT MOMONOF. — SELO MOLODI. — CRITICISM ON DR.
CLARKE. -T- LAPASNA. — SUNDAY MARKET. — SEMEONOV-
SKOYE.— ILLUSTRATION OF RUSSIAN NATIONAL CHARACTER
AND MANNERS. — GENERAL NASTCIIOKIN. — MINERAL WATERS
OF SEMEONOVSKOYE.-SERPUCHOF. — CURIOUS CUSTOMS.—
THE RIVER OKA. — VOSHAN.-VOLOTYA. — POSTMASTER^
TRICK, — TULA. — ARM-FABRIC.
On the 10th (22d. N. S.) April, 1822, all prepar¬
ations having been made for a long journey, our
podorojne *, was duly registered at the post-house,
and the smotritel t, according to custom, received
* Order for po^t-liorses. f Post-master,
VOL. I
E
q
DEPARTURE FROM MOSCOW.
a douceur for his trouble. We soon reached the
barrier of Scrpuchof (as it is called), the schlag-
baiim of which being let down by a sentinel our
progress was prevented. One of our servants de¬
scended to the officer on duty, got the podorojne
duly entered in the book kept on purpose, and
gave the clerk the usual drink money; we were
then allowed to proceed, and left Moscow behind
us.
The village Danilovskoye, immediately without
the barrier, warns the traveller that he is instanta¬
neously translated from the ancient capital of Russia
to the country. The snow having but lately dis¬
appeared, we found the road in many places very
bad, and in others extremely winding. At the dis¬
tance of three and of six versts, from two hills,
we had beautiful birds-eye views of the immense
and magnificent capital of the ancient Tsars, which,
in my opinion, are far more interesting than the
well known and celebrated view from the Spar¬
row-hill. The city is spread before us upon an
extensive plain. It has the form of a crescent,
with the Donskoi monastery on the west; the ele¬
vated Krernle with the imperial palace, the tower¬
ing Ivan Velikii, a crowd of monasteries and
churches, surmounted by numerous resplendent
gilded and painted domes in the centre; and the
Simconovskoi monastery on the east. The river
Moskva flowing through the city; innumerable
churches and towers; gilded, tinned, and painted
KOLOMENSKOYE.
spires and domes -, an immensity of buildings great
and small, with their white, yellow, blue, green, and
purple walls, and their red and green, blue and
black roofs, extending all around, in many places
intermixed with small wooden sombre-looking-
houses, surrounded by open spaces, trees, gardens,
and parks, — all encircled with the foliage and the
green covering of nature of the diversified environs,
— contribute to fill up the enchanting panorama.
From the variety of objects and surfaces, a decom¬
position and reflection of light, a divergence and
mixture of the solar rays, a glittering or rather
dazzling splendour are produced, which, combined
with the number, the magnitude, and the beauty
of many of those objects, has an effect upon the
beholder imposing and indescribable ; his wonder
and admiration are excited.
Kolomenskoyc, with its old churches and pyra¬
midal towere, charmingly situated amid gardens
and trees, on the Moskva river, rises upon the left.
This villa was the favourite residence of the Tsar
Alexii Michailovitch, and disputes the honor of
having given birth to Peter the Great, with the old
palace in the Kremle of Moscow. * We passed
the road which conducts to Tsaritzin, and soon
afterwards the gloomy pavilions of this beautiful
imperial retreat, burst upon the sight, though at a
considerable distance. We remarked different no-
* Character of the Russians, &c. p. 176.
B 2
4
PODOLSK.
blemen’s seats, both on the right and left, and
passed through a number of villages, as Trubet-
skoye and Molotsi, before reaching the first station.
The road was full of deep hollows, and extremely
winding. In many places we were obliged to walk
the horses ; in others ditches were to be crossed ;
and we were frequently on the point of being over¬
turned. When it was possible to trot, the jolting
was most disagreeable, and gave a complete idea
of the roads of Russia in the spring. Near Podolsk,
and nearly thirty-three versts from the ancient
capital, is a large square column, which indicates
the contiguous boundaries of the districts of Mos¬
cow and Podolsk. Here the banks of the Pachra
are woody and romantic. The floating bridge,
usually found in the village in summer, not having
been re-established since the breaking up of the
ice, we crossed this river upon a raft, and landed
opposite the post-house. Having delivered our
podorojne, by the almost infallible expedient of
drink-money, we obtained horses immediately.
Podole, or Podolsk, was formerly reckoned a
sdo, or village with a church, but it was consti¬
tuted a district-town in the reign of Catharine the
Second. Paul,’ however, took away its dignity by
making it a village; but the present monarch, ap¬
proving Catharine’s plans, a second time dignified
it with the appellation of town. The Pachra *, a
* By mistake, this river is named the Mockra by Clarke.
Travels, p. 174.
GRAVEN IMAGES.
5
river of considerable size, at least in the spring,
divides Podolsk into two parts; the communication
between which is maintained in winter by the ice,
in spring by a raft, and in summer by a floating
bridge.
Podolsk, though but thirty-three versts from
Moscow, a district town, and in a populous neigh¬
bourhood, consists chiefly of a single street, con¬
tains not much above a hundred houses, a few of
which are built of stone, and has but a paltry ap¬
pearance. The large edifice for the tribunals of
the district, a church dedicated to the resurrection,
and another fine temple now erecting, chiefly at¬
tract notice. The number of its inhabitants, I
should suppose, over-rated, at 1000 souls. It was
burned during the campaign of the French in
1S12, and through it part of Kutuzof’s army passed,
when that general, by a most masterly movement,
after his retreat to Moscow, marched from the
Kolomna to the Kaluga road, and thus got into
the rear of the French army. Upon the success
or failure of this manoeuvre the fate of the Russian
forces, and perhaps of Russia, depended.
In consequence of the attention which I had
paid to the religion of the Russians, and especially
to their worship of graven images — not pictures
or paintings — two small prayer-houses merited
particular examination. One of these edifices
( Tcliasovnya ) is situated on the north-west side of
the Pachra, and contains a solid representation of
1 ! 3
G
ItUSSIAN CLERGY.
the crucifixion, surrounded by small statues of the
Virgin Mary and the saints. In another prayer-
house on the south-west side of the same river, is
to be seen a bas-relief brass image of St. Nicholas,
nearly similar to the favorite images of this saint,
which I have elsewhere particularly described.*
The tomb of Christ, with saints around it, and the
dungeon in which he is sitting in a melancholy
attitude, with a black mantle thrown over him,
and an armed guard on each side, form a kind of
i/conostas, or transept, and only claim notice be¬
cause all the figures, which are about a foot in
height, appear to be cut out of wood or some
other solid substance, and receive the homage of
the passing peasantry, and at least the reverence
even of the nobles and the clergy.
The ignorance of many of the last class is but
too notorious. I have conversed with some who
themselves had very confused notions about the
respect, reverence, or adoration of the holy images,
and with others, who had the frankness to allow
that the peasants held them in the place of gods.
What can be expected of a clergy so low in the
scale of society as the Russian ? I once overtook
a monk, who was fatigued and unwell, upon the
road to Ostrof, a country-seat of the Countess
Orlof, near Moscow, whom no persuasion could in¬
duce to share my carriage, although he willingly got
* Character of the Russians, p. 199.
COUNT MOMONOF.
7
up behind it, and was thus conveyed to his abode,
a neighbouring monastery. Numerous such ex¬
amples have come within my observation, while it
has not rarely happened that I have been disgusted
by a contrary conduct, because I bore no insignia
of rank or honour. The assumed consequence
and pretensions of some of the priests, coupled
with their extreme ignorance, has often excited my
contempt, and still oftener my pity.
Leaving Podolsk, we soon passed the tine estate
and immense establishment of Count Momonof
called Dubrovitsi, which fixes the attention of the
traveller equally from the history of its former and
of its present proprietor, and the beauty and magni¬
ficence of the residence. The late Count Mo-
monof was one of the favourites of the Empress
Catharine II., and, like the rest of them, made his
fortune by the licentiousness of his sovereign.
Of the incredible sum of 92,820,000 roubles,
which Catharine lavished upon her favourites in
the course of thirty-four years, Momonof, whose
reign endured but twenty-six months, received
only the small share of 880,000, though still a
handsome fortune. Potyemkin alone received
above 50,000,000; and the five brothers of the
Orlofs had above 17 , 000,000 roubles divided
among them. Such unwarranted prodigality of
the public revenues, accompanied by the most
shameless immorality on the part of the Empress,
must have roused the indignation and the enmity
r, f
8
CATHARINE II. AND
of thousands of individuals, the expression of which
was only restrained by the pressure of uncontrolled
and reckless despotism.
When we recollect the manner in which Catha¬
rine ascended the throne, with the blood of her
murdered husband upon her head; when we re¬
collect too the summary mode of revenge which
afterwards put an untimely end to the days of
Paul, we may be justly surprised how she, —
with all her talents, her genius, and her knowledge
of mankind, her vigilance, her penetration, and her
wisdom, — who dared so openly to insult humanity,
so profusely to squander away the national money,
yet escaped the effect of public indignation, and
after thirty-four years’ reign, died a natural death.
Momouof, with all the favours he enjoyed,
proved an unfaithful favourite. The solid proofs
of her fondness which Catharine lavished on him
could not secure his heart; although she for some
time flattered herself that she possessed it. The
wily sovereign at length discovered that Princess
Stcherbatof was the object of Momonof’s ador¬
ation, and consented to their marriage, as a measure
of wise policy at the time. But it appears pretty
evident that revenge rankled in her heart, and that
she only awaited an opportunity or a pretence for
indulging it, which she at length did, in a manner
so unworthy of her sex, so indecorous, and so des-
potical, that the act leaves a stigma of ignominy
upon her character which time will never efface.
COUNT MOMONOF.
9
It was alleged that Momonof communicated the
secrets of his amorous interviews with Catharine
to his lady, who divulged them with a levity inju¬
rious to that sovereign. But the princess had oc¬
casion to repent this indiscretion. One night after
she and her husband had retired to rest, their cham¬
bers were entered by the master of the police and
six of his myrmidons, disguised as women, who
seized the princess, stripped her, and inflicted upon
her the most degrading corporal punishment, of
which Momonof was an unwilling spectator, being
obliged to remain on his knees during the oper¬
ation. The master of the police concluded his
unwelcome visit by informing his victims that this
was the way in which the Empress punished a first
indiscretion, and that a second would be followed
by banishment to Siberia. *
Momonof himself was a very capricious cha¬
racter, especially in his old age, and so fond of
show, that even when he dined alone, forty or fifty
covers were put upon the table. At his death,
his fortune fell into the hands of his son, the
present count, a very eccentric being. During
the late invasion of Russia by the French, moved
by an enthusiastic spirit of patriotism, which his
large fortune enabled him fully to demonstrate, he
raised and completely equipped a thousand troops
at his own expence, and then tendered their ser-
* Vide Life of Catharine II., vol. iii. p. 311. and 385.
10
JIOLODI SELO.
vices to his sovereign. The command of this
regiment was given to him, an honor which, I be¬
lieve, he retained even in Germany and France ;
but some irregularities having been committed,
the count was requested to resign his situation;
which was tantamount to an irresistible order. To
a young and ardent mind, anxious for military
glory, the disgrace was insupportable: he with¬
drew from the world and retired to Dubrovitsi,
where he still lives in complete solitude. All his
orders are given to his steward in writing: all his
meals are ordered in notes, and when placed upon
the table, the servants retire. Private walks are
made in the garden, and when he goes to church,
it is through a covered avenue, into which none
are allowed to enter. His devotions performed,
he returns to his solitary apartment. In fact, the
Count is a hermit in a magnificent palace. Report
says, he is occupied in the composition of a liter¬
ary work.
Seventeen versts beyond Podolsk, is Mulodi Sdlo,
or the 'village with a church Molodi, which belongs
to Madame Krotkof The church, imposing at a
short distance from its gaudy colours and paintings,
and not inelegant in its architecture$ the two
storied house of the proprietor; the fantastic gar¬
dens ; and numerous pillars on each side of the
road, between which we passed on quitting the vil¬
lage ; though mostly in bad taste, yet, by the
singular contrast which they form to the sombre
CRITICISM ON DII. CLARKE.
11
wooden dwellings of the peasantry, relieve the eye,
at least, by variety.
Although I resided for some time near Selo
Molodi, I never heard that its late lord and master,
Mr. Krotkof, was guilty of unusual cruelty to his
slaves, yet one of the most striking pictures of the
oppression under which Dr. Clarke represents the
peasants of Russia to labour, was furnished by this
village. I shall quote his own words: “ A peasant
in the village of Sdo Molocli , near Moscow, who
had been fortunate enough to scrape together a
little wealth, wished to marry his daughter to a
tradesman of the city ; and for that purpose, that
she should be free, he offered fifteen thousand
roubles for her liberty; a most unusual price of
freedom, and a much greater sum than persons of
his class, situated as he was, will be found to pos¬
sess. The tyrant took the ransom; and then told
the father, that both the girl and the money be¬
longed to him ; and, therefore, she must still con¬
tinue among the number of his slaves. What a
picture do these facts afford of the state of Russia!
It is thus we behold the subjects of a vast empire,
stripped of all they possess, and existing in the
most aoject servitude; victims of tyranny and
torture ; of sorrow and poverty ; of sickness and
famine.” *
To pretend that such instances of injustice and
cruelty do not occur with some of a privileged.
* Clarkes Travels, p. 170.
12
CRITICISM ON DR. CLARKE.
and at times tyrannical aristocracy, would be to
assume more perfection in the Russians than falls
to the let of humanity. Wherever the few have
the power to oppress the many, especially when
without the least chance of being called to ac¬
count, the worst of passions will be now r and
then indulged, and will lead to the most infamous
actions. In a country, in which a servant may one
moment be addressed with the caressing epithet.
Mot Golubtchik (my dove or dear), from the mouth
of his lord, and the next by a very usual transition,
receive a box on the ear, or have his hair pulled
by a capricious master, would it be reasonable to
expect no extraordinary cases of inhuman con¬
duct ? In admitting such an occurrence, however,
I would by no means wish to make the reader be¬
lieve that I agree with Dr. Clarke in the general
and severe conclusion which he has drawn from a
solitary case. I have had some experience in
Russia, and have never known its parallel; a satis¬
factory proof that the circumstance is not common.
But while I dissent from his sweeping censure, I
must not be understood to defend the Russian nobles
against their well-known prominent vices, or their
general deficiency in moral principles. I keep be¬
fore me, the great object, of which I have spoken
at length in another work, of impressing upon my
readers, that the fate of tens of millions of human
beings, though doomed by nature to be slaves, is not
nearly so hard as some writers have represented.
After passing Selo Molodi, the road continued
LAPASNA.
13
equally bad, and so extremely winding as to double
or triple the real distance of the next station. About
thirteen versts from Saphonova, one of the car¬
riages got completely fixed in one of those al¬
most impassable quagmires which impede the tra¬
veller’s progress in spring, and especially on the road
from Moscow to Serpuchof. The irregular efforts
of the coachmen and postillions of both equipages
were ineffectual, they made much noise, but the
carriage was immoveable; and it was not till I took
my seat on the box and persuaded the men to
make a simultaneous effort with the horses, that
we succeeded in setting it once more in motion.
Of all equipages the telega is the best adapted for
Russia. The velocity with which travellers, and
especially couriers, proceed in this simple vehicle,
is truly astonishing, and is not overcharged by the
representation at the head of this chapter.
After a tedious journey we reached Lapasna in
the night, a village situated on both sides of the
river of the same name. This river is very shallow
and paltry in summer, and though on the great
road from Moscow to the Ukraine, it is not fur¬
nished with even a floating bridge. This is the
more extraordinary, as the ford is extremely dif¬
ficult, especially on the south side, and carriages
are frequently injured greatly, or broken to pieces
in the passage. In spring the river is crossed by
a raft, and in winter upon the ice.
Lapasna is a very large village, composed of a
14.
SUNDAY MARKET.
long range of houses on each side of the road,
besides some back streets, or rather rows of houses.
It is chiefly built of wood, although we remarked
a few brick houses, one of which is a leabdk, or
tavern, in those days the almost never-failing con¬
comitant of the smallest village in the empire.
In Lapasna a number of apartments are kept by
different individuals for the accommodation of
travellers. On quitting Moscow such rooms are
generally reckoned very uncomfortable; but by
the time a traveller has gone over a few thousand
versts of Russian territory he would rejoice at the
prospect of passing a night in them: they are
palaces in comparison of the lodgings which must
be borne with in the Krimea, or the Caucasus.
The inhabitants of Lapasna are chiefly yamstchiks,
or post-boors, and are the greatest impostors and
rogues I have met with in their line of life, during
my travels in Russia.
I was present at a Sunday market, which is held
regularly here, when on my return from visiting a
patient, in the summer of 1821, and stopped my
carriage amidst its bustle and confusion, to view
the scene. Groups of rudely habited peasants, male
and female, were occupied in buying and selling all
sorts of provisions for man and beast. Coarse cloth,
sheep-skin sJ/oobs, wool, butcher-meat, of differ¬
ent kinds, salt, common sorts of fruit, vegetables,
spice-cakes, confections, and water-melons were in
abundance,; earthen dishes, ready made windows.
SEMEONOVSKOYF..
1.3
ironmongery, wooden dishes, lapti, or shoes made
of linden bark, and live animals, were all hud¬
dled together in the greatest confusion: but
what had rather a disagreeable effect was, a num¬
ber of coffins, painted and unpainted, very promi¬
nently displayed upon a cart, which met with a
ready sale. This picture gives a pretty correct
idea of a Russian market, in the district towns
and villages throughout Russia, as well as in the
countries which she has either conquered or trea¬
cherously seized.
Adjoining to Lapasna there is a country house,
with extensive gardens, and a cloth-manufactory
in ruins, which belong to one of the members
of the family.of Vassiltchikof; a family which pos¬
sesses many estates in the neighbourhood, and
which has acquired considerable renown by the
bravery of general Vassiltchikof during the cam¬
paign of 1812, 18, 14.
Having changed horses, we forded the Lapasna,
luckily, without any accident, and passed the
estate of Mr. K. V. Vassiltchikof called Manishka,
on the left. The proprietor is a singular charac¬
ter ; he is a great hunter, and being much devoted
to botany, has ornamented his hot-houses by a
well-chosen though small collection of plants. He
is extremely hospitable, and does not hesitate (as
he says) “ to do English honours to the bottle.”
Seven versts beyond Lapasna, the village of Sa¬
phonova is remarkable only on account of a small
16
RAI-SEMEONOVSKOYE.
column at its north end, which indicates to the
traveller the road to Seineonovskoye, one of the
most delightful estates which I have seen in Rus¬
sia. At twelve versts distance from Serpuchof,
and just beyond the village Moskovka, the noble
house, the elegant church, and proud towers of
this villa burst upon our view, with a beautiful
landscape in the foreground. As there are many
villages named Seineonovskoye in Russia, and espe¬
cially as there is one of the same name at no great
distance, which belongs to count Vladimir Orlof,
the noble proprietor thought proper, by way of
distinction, to call his estate Rat-Seineonovskoye, or
Paradise-Semeonovskoye. I resided eight months
at this charming place, but alas! I found, that
although nature had made it a terrestrial paradise,
man had made it a pandemonium. I would re¬
commend the traveller for pleasure to make a de¬
tour of a few versts in order to see this fine seat,
and he will afterwards be conducted by an agreeable
road to Serpuchof. Seineonovskoye commands de¬
lightful and extensive views, and had the efforts of
man, in its improvement and government, been
nearly proportionate to the bounty of nature, it
might, perhaps, have had as many claims to the
title of “ Paradise” as most spots on the surface
of the globe.
I shall never have a better opportunity of illus¬
trating the national character of the Russians than
by pausing a little here. While residing in Peters-
ILLUSTRATION OF RUSSIAN CHARACTER. 17
burgh, in the spring of 1820, a young man called
upon me with a message from General Nastchokin,
who begged that I would wait upon him the next
morning; I did so, and found the object he had
in view was to propose an engagement to me to
become his physician, and to reside at Semeonov-
skoye. He informed me that upon this estate
there were excellent mineral waters, which were
frequented by about twenty or thirty families
every summer; that the resident physician re¬
ceived a revenue of three, four, or five thousand
roubles from the invalids, besides the salary he
gave himself and the proceeds of practice among
the neighbouring nobility; and that a more desir¬
able situation was not to be found in the world.
In order to convince me of the certainty of gaining
so much money, he offered to give me four thousand
roubles for the chance of all I should get by the
in valids who came to the waters. But when I con¬
sented to this, he excused himself by saying, he
did not wish “ to deceive and rob me by taking
my money, which, on such conditions, would cer¬
tainly be the case,” because I should assuredly gain
a greater sum than four thousand roubles. The
General now put into my hands a register of all the
persons who, he said, had been invalids at Semeo-
novskoy^ the preceding summer ; most of whom,
I afterwards discovered, were relations and neigh¬
bours, who had passed a day or two at his fes¬
tivals, and had enjoyed the best health. He
VOL. 1 . c
18 ILLUSTRATION OF RUSSIAN CHARACTER.
next showed me a pamphlet, of which I have a
copy, and which bears the following title : “ Won¬
derful Cure, or a Journey to the Waters of our
Saviour, in the village Rai-Semeonovskoye, which
belongs to General Nastchokin.” This pamphlet
consists of eighty pages, and the preface is signed
by E. I., who pretends to have been an old vale¬
tudinarian officer, who had been every where in
search of health, and at length found it in Paradise-
Semeonovskoye. For the benefit of his countrymen
he makes known his own case, recommends in
high strains the mineral waters of our Saviour, and
gives a detailed account of General Nastchokin’s.
celebrated village. Again and again he is lavish
to fulsomeness in praise of the proprietor, drags
in a short poem which was composed by an in¬
valid as a mark of his gratitude, and even most
unappropriated bestows the celebrated words of
Catharine IT., which were merited by Prince
Orlof, upon the hero of his theme:—
“ Russia has such sons.”*
The reader will be as much surprised as I was on
learning that this paragon of perfection was his
own biographer, and with the assistance of a young
•
* The Empress Catharine II. had a medal struck in honour
of Prince Orlof's success in quelling the rebellion, and expel¬
ling the plague from Moscow; on one side of which is his
portrait, and the other represents him in the character of Curtius
leaping into the gulph, with the above inscription in Russian.
ILLUSTRATION OF RUSSIAN CHARACTER. If)
man whom he chose to call his police-master,
composed the pamphlet, and published it at his
own expence.
But to return, his Excellency next informed me
that there was an apothecary’s shop, which was
privileged* in his village: this I found so far
correct, that the shop existed, but it was not privi¬
leged, although an attempt had been twice made
to obtain the privilege, i. e. the power of selling
medicines, and of compounding them according
to physicians’ prescriptions. As an additional en¬
couragement, he assured me, that not only the
physician, but also the apothecary, at Semeonov-
skoye, was reckoned in the civil service of the
crown, and obtained all the consequent advantages
in point of rank, which I discovered to be a viol¬
ation of truth. He then offered me the annual salary
Jixed by the crown, which I refused, and he aug¬
mented it. At this time I was not acquainted
with the character of General Nastchokin, nor
were any of my Petersburgh friends. At length
all the terms were definitively settled, and a per¬
petual contract, as it is called, which might be can¬
celled with three months’ notice by either party,
was drawn up and signed by the General and
myself. A petition was next written and signed
by me, which his Excellency said was abso-
* In Russia no public apothecary’s shop is allowed to be
opened without a special privilege.
C a
20
GENERAL NASTCHOKIN.
lutely necessary to be done, purporting to beg the
minister of the interior to grant me the vacant
situation in the civil service at Semeonovskoye; a
petition which, I afterwards learned, was never in¬
tended to be presented, but was drawn up in
order the better to deceive me.
The reader who is familiar with the new comedy
of Imposition and Laughter, and who knows that the
General is the chief of the dramatis persona?, will
not be astonished at the above conduct of a noble¬
man covered with crosses, ribands, and honours.
General Natschokin is descended from a re¬
spectable family, and received what is called in
llussia, a genteel education, by which may be very
frequently understood a combination of French
levity and manners with national cunning and de¬
ceit, and the faculty of speaking two, three, or
more foreign languages, especially French. He
was brought up in great awe of his father, who is
said to have been a good kind of man, and to have
possessed excellent moral and religious principles ;
an association by no means frequent in the north¬
ern empire. He married early in life, and by his
lady he had a number of children. At his father’s
death he became proprietor of some excellent es¬
tates, and above 4000 peasants, a handsome though
not a colossal fortune, in Russia. By proper
conduct he might have been one of the most
independent and happy nobles in his country,
and have rendered Semeonovskoye an earthly
GENERAL NASTCHOKIN.
21
paradise; but by the system of life which he has
pursued, he has been involved in a rapid succes¬
sion and augmentation of difficulties; the offspring
of perverted principles, bad habits, and an ill-
regulated mind. His eagerness for worldly rank
and popular applause exceeds imagination, and is
carried even to childishness; his credulity and
superstition know no bounds; his low cunning,
and his profound dissimulation and craft surpass
the powers of description, and his open breaches
of the laws of honour, virtue, and religion are
quite notorious. He is passionately fond of so¬
ciety ; indeed, his life seems to centre, not in
himself but in his communications with others.
Cards, balls, concerts, theatres, masquerades, pro¬
menades, dinner-parties, supper-parties, riding-
parties, and journies from one place to another,
occupy the most of his time, and the remainder
is devoted to giving a few directions about the
management of his estates, but especially in writ¬
ing evasive answers to his many creditors, and
instructions to his agents about his numerous law
processes. Having spent a few years of his life,
during Paul’s reign, at court, he has acquired
most extravagant ideas, and would wish to be a
sovereign in all his actions, notwithstanding his
inconsistencies, the inadequacy of his means, and
an overwhelming load of debt. His recreations,
amusements, and extravagance have been the ruin
c 3
22
GENERAL NASTCHOKIN.
of his fortune, and most probably the destruction
of his moral and religious character.
Like a great number of the Russian nobility,
when resident upon their estates, he gives a weekly
dinner to his friends or neighbours, which is
followed by every kind of enjoyment, as we shall
see immediately. No one ever showed more anx¬
iety to assemble large parties, either on Sundays
or festivals. He sends the most pressing invita¬
tions to all ranks of the nobility within twenty or
thirty miles of Semeonovskoye, begging them to
honour him with their company ; and from Serpu-
chof, which is only twelve miles distant from that
village, he is generally flattered by the appear¬
ance of a party of those hungry gentlemen who
are attached to the tribunals of the district. The
Sunday commences with dressing, drinking tea
and coffee, and conversation with some of the
inmates of the house. The guests begin to assem¬
ble, and as many as have arrived by eleven o’clock,
generally accompany his Excellency to church,
which is only about forty yards distant from the
house. Yet in the finest weather, a large lineika (a
kind of long half-open double-seated carriage, in
which a dozen or more persons can sit), with four
horses and a couple of lackeys, besides carriages
and droshkis, are always in attendance, and are
generally used to convey and bring back those who
avail themselves of the opportunity from the place
of worship. The church service continues till
GENERAL NASTCHOKIN.
‘23
about twelve o’clock, and during its performance,
the general affects the greatest attention and de¬
votion. Having got into the carriages, the party
roll along to the house, in which, in the meantime,
a number more visitors have assembled. The
dejeuner, consisting of bread, butter, salt herrings,
pickled fish, radishes, caviar, &c. &c. with a glass
of sweet vodtki, occupies the next half hour. The
party now get into groups for conversation, for
walking, for cards, and other amusements. Din¬
ner is served up at three o’clock, and generally
consists of a number of excellent dishes, prepared
in the French style, besides some national dishes.
A few glasses of wine, and often of excellent wine
of different kinds, are offered to each guest. The
party now retire from table, and coffee is handed
round. Again the company are in a great degree
left to their own will. Some immediately recom¬
mence cards, some go to walk, and others to
ride, and the remainder to take a siesta: and in
summer, it is not rare for the whole party to with¬
draw to the arms of Morphens. Between six and
seven o’clock, a general muster again takes place,
and tea is drunk either in the house, or, when the
weather permits, in the garden. Those who re¬
main, now adjourn to the theatre or to the ball¬
room, and there, besides having their minds or
bodies occupied, are supplied with lemonade, grog,
and negus. About eleven or twelve o’clock, the
day concludes with a good supper, and at an early
c 4
24< MINERAL WATERS OF SEMEONOVSKOYE.
hour, the guests either return home or retire to
their apartments for repose. At their departure,
all are heartily thanked for their company, and re¬
ceive the fervent benediction of their host.
Such is a pretty general picture of the manner
in which the hallowed day is spent by the nobles
of the Russian empire. Those who are rich be¬
come hosts, and those who are poor form guests.
Few of them get intoxicated with wine or spirits,
but all with amusement and folly. They thus
thoughtlessly and extravagantly expend their mo¬
ney and get into debt. But still they go on from
year to year as long as they can force the wheels
of fortune to revolve, and generally when they die,
their affairs are in a state of great confusion, and
their estates entailed.
So strong is the passion for entertaining company
among the Russian nobles, that were it possible to
find the means of supporting it, and to obtain a
succession of guests, every day would be passed as
they spend Sunday ; and indeed some of the richer
individuals keep open table throughout the year.
About the year 1810, the mineral waters ofSemeo-
novskoye were discovered, and some noise having-
been made respecting them, Professor Reiiss, of
the university of Moscow, was employed to ana¬
lyze them in 1812 or 1813. General Nastchokin
afterwards engaged the professor to pass the vaca¬
tion months with him, and to act as physician,
which he did during two summers. The analysis
MINERAL WATERS OF SEMEONOVSKOYE.
25
of the waters was published, as well as a minute
account of the diseases in which they would be¬
come serviceable. Advertisements appeared con¬
tinually in the papers in their celebration, and,
in a word, every effort was made to bring them
into notice. To a certain extent the plan was
successful. A number of invalids resorted to Se-
meonovskoye, and the general was elated with
his success, as by this means he was to secure a
succession of company, and at the same time to
make that company a source of revenue. A per¬
manent physician was now engaged, and a number
of houses were erected for the accommodation of
the sick, the invalid, or those who came for mere
pleasure. Every season the physician was changed
in consequence of quarrels which had taken
place. In the mean time, the number of those who
frequented the springs annually diminished, and
unfortunately for the general, he attributed this
to the want of proper accommodations. A fine
wood was immediately cut down, and no less than
fifteen houses, each capable of containing a noble¬
man’s family, suddenly arose and formed a new
street, besides a theatre, an hospital, an apothe¬
cary’s shop, and an inn, “ Restanration anx armes
du Seigneur ” while a number of the peasants’
cottages underwent a thorough repair, and were
adapted for the accommodation of the poorer
classes. Equipages of all kinds were bought, and
they, as well as saddle-horses, were to be hired by
20 MINERAL WATERS OF SEMEONOVSKOYE.
the day or by the month. Assembly-rooms were
arranged, which served for the entertainment of
invited parties. A person, bearing the name of
j police-master , was also placed in the village, who,
among his other duties, had particular charge of'
the Jire-engine. Semeonovskoye assumed the ap¬
pearance of a colony, and was much beautified by
a fine boulevard and a Chinese temple. Two re¬
gular streets terminate in corresponding barriers
or zastavas, with a couple of columns, similar to
what we see in all the principal towns of Russia.
But these preparations were made in vain; for
those in search of health go not to find that lost
treasure at Semeonovskoy6. The fact is, the gene¬
ral ruined his own scheme by his slanderous tongue,
his capricious conduct, and his mean actions.
Those entertained with sumptuous dinners, balls,
concerts, and suppers, had no sooner gone into
another room, than his Excellency took delight in
traducing one individual after another till the whole
society had received their meed of abuse. The
visitors soon found they had all been the sport of
the general’s sharp tongue, (langue tranchante ,)
as one of them well called it. Friends and rela¬
tions shared the same fate. All the slander of the
district (and who knows how much of it originated
within his own brain), was repeated to every guest
who came in his way.
The two springs, — perhaps somewhat profanely
nominated the “ Waters of our Saviour,” because
MINERAL WATERS OF SEMEONOVSKOYK. c 2f
the copy of the image of our Saviour, not made
with hands, to whicli the church in Semeonovskoye
is dedicated, was transported thither, and with
much ceremony placed in the rotunda whicli is
erected over them, — are of a saline and ferruginous
nature ; while another spring, called “ The Spring
of Yazikofj” is remarkable for its purity, if Profes¬
sor Reiiss’s statements can be fully relied on. I
shall here quote the tabular form of his analysis of
all the three springs.
A Pound, of Sixteen Ounces, of the Waters of Our Saviour
contained
Spring,
No. 1. No. 2.
Carbonate of iron,
0.212
0.287
Carbonate of manganeze,
-
-
0.006
0.012
Carbonate of lime,
-
-
0.324
0.245
Sub-carbonate of Magnesia,
-
-
0.012
0.012
Alumina,
-
-
0.050
0.050
Silica,
-
-
0.264
0.303
Alkaline muriate, (muriate alealin) -
-
0.025
0.025
Extractive,
0.224.
1.107
0.256
1.190
A Pound , of Sixteen Ounces ,
of the Water of Yaz
ikof
Carbonate of lime,
-
-
-
0.060
Sulphate of lime,
-
-
-
0.030
Muriate of lime,
-
-
0.000
Alumina,
-
-
0.035
Silica,
-
-
-
0.103
Oxide of iron,
-
-
0.008
Resino-gummy extractive,
-
-
-
0.034
Gummy extractive,
Total,
0.023
0.293
‘28
CURIOSITY OF THE RUSSIANS.
Speaking of the water of Yazikof, Professor
Reiiss says, “ When we compare this water with
the purest springs which we know, we find that it
surpasses them much in purity.”
Never was there a better example of the inordin¬
ate curiosity which is pretty generally prevalent
among the Russian nobles *, thanatSemeonovskoye.
The most insignificant occurrence could not take
place, the most trifling observation could scarcely
be made, without its being communicated to the
general. Nor could the ostentation be made bet¬
ter known, which is characteristic of these seig¬
neurs. To such a degree does its lord carry
this feeling, that at the approach of a visitor, his
band of musicians are ordered immediately to take
their station in the Chinese tower, and, as they
pass, to astonish them by a sudden burst of instru¬
mental music. One of the servants who had been
appointed to keep watch in the tower, but failed
in his duty, and allowed a prince to arrive without
having surprised him in this manner, was severely
punished.
The estate of the Gurief family on the left pre¬
sented one of those pleasing sights which are so
frequent in Russia; — the elegant parish church,
the mansion of the noble, and the country village,
rising together amidst luxuriant trees, verdant
fields, lowing herds, and groups of active peasants.
* Character of the Russians, p. cv.
SERPUCHOF.
29
A ride of ten versts through woods alternating
with open undulating country, and presenting
beautiful and diversified views, brought us to
Serpuchof.
Serpuchof is the chief town of a district of the
same name, in the government of Moscow, and is
only 93 versts distant from the ancient capital.
Its situation is elevated and romantic, and com¬
mands extensive views of a very fine country,
through which the Oka flows towards the Volga.
It lies chiefly upon the side of a hill, or rather, as
it appears, of a number of hills with deep ravines
between them, which give it a singular appearance.
The Nara, a small river, passes through the town,
and four versts from it, falls into the Oka. The
numerous spires and churches which we had re¬
marked at a distance when approaching Serpuchof,
led us to expect a much more populous and more
beautiful town than we found it in reality. Still
it is one of the handsomest small towns in the Rus¬
sian empire; and, according to Dr. Clarke, “ it
perfectly resembles Newmarket in situation, ap¬
pearance, and surrounding scenery.” * The figure
of the town is oblong, and by no means regular ;
and it is divided into three quarters by the Nara
and the rivulet Serpeika. It is said in the Geo¬
graphical Dictionary of Russia, that it contains
fifty-eight streets and cross streets; but although
* Travels, p. 174.
30
SF.RPUCHOF.
I resided some months tliere, I could never disco¬
ver above a dozen worthy of that name. Some ot
them, however, are regular, and most of the houses
are of wood, others of stone. The churches,
eighteen in number, and a couple of monasteries,
both from their romantic situations, their gaudy
colours, and gilded domes, add a considerable life
and beauty to this town. The stranger’s attention
is arrested by the plostchad, or market-place, an
immense oblong square, large enough for a capital
of the first magnitude. It is surrounded by shops,
in which all kinds of goods are to be found. On
market days it is filled with crowds of people,
horses and cattle, and telegas or carts loaded with
provisions, especially corn and timber, and fire¬
wood. Though so near Moscow, the latter article
does not cost much above one-third of the price
which it does in that capital. The large edifice,
like a noble palace, which contains all the tribunals
and all the public offices of the crown for the dis¬
trict, well deserves a visit from the curious traveller,
who is anxious to get an idea of the mode in which
civil administration is carried on in the country
towns of Russia.
The ancient fortress, situated upon an insulated
hill, and surrounded by high sand-stone walls,
though falling into ruins, lias a somewhat venerable
aspect, and adds variety to the view. It was built
in the year 1556, as one of the defences against the
attacks of the Tartars: and so lately as 1508 it
SERPUCHOF.
.31
was fortified strongly, when all the forces of Russia
were assembled in Serpuchof under Boris Godunof,
to oppose the marauders of the Krimea.
Serpuchof is a busy and industrious town, and it
will serve to make known the kind of manufactures
which succeed in the vicinity of Moscow, to state,
that it contains seven sail-cloth manufactories;
eight tanneries ; nine breweries; two cloth manu¬
factories ; two calico and calico printing fabrics;
and one tallow manufactory. The merchants of Ser¬
puchof carry on an extensive commerce in corn
with the neighbouring districts, and with the go¬
vernment of Orel by means of the Oka; they
transport it to Moscow in winter by sledge-roads,
when carriage is cheap. They are also great
dealers in horned-cattle, which they buy in the Uk¬
raine, and drive to Moscow and Petersburgh; as
well as in fish, honey, wax, tallow, leather, hemp,
coarse linen, and timber.
The population of Serpuchof is said to amount
to between 5000 and 6000 ; and is always greatly
augmented by a number of troops. In summer a
wooden bridge maintains the communication across
the Nara. It is formed of wood, supported on
diamond-shaped buttresses. In spring, before the
ice breaks up, cart-loads of stones are laid upon it,
to prevent its being carried away by the flood of
the river, by which it is completely inundated. A
raft is then established, and it is most amusing to
see men, women, and horses wading up to the
CURIOUS CUSTOMS.
30
knees in mud, before reaching and after quitting
it. In Britain we have little idea of the difficulties
and the desagremens of travelling in Russia ; many
a dangerous ford is passed, and many a crazy bridge
is crossed, without a thought being bestowed on so
common an occurrence.
In walking through the streets of Serpuchof I
remarked images, — as pictures of Christ, of the
Virgin Mary, and of the saints of the Russo-Greek
rubric, — many of them in frames, over the gates of
most of the houses ; a practice which, as far as I
know, is not common in many of the towns of
Russia.
Another curious custom prevails in this town,
at least among the merchants and burgesses. The
females do not go to church on week-days, nor
even on Sundays, except they be great festivals,
till after marriage. I was led to enquire as to the
cause of this of a merchant, whose two daughters
always remained at home, while his wife and his
daughter-in-law were almost daily attendants on
divine service. All the answer I ever received
was truly Russian ; “ I know not — it is the custom
— it is not considered good to act otherwise.”
Having breakfasted at Serpuchof on the morn¬
ing of the lltli, at a good Russian inn, we pro¬
ceeded on our journey. Soon after passing the
zastdva, or barrier, we remarked a stone column,
the fellow of which we afterwards saw on the south
side of the Oka. This river forms the boundary
THE RIVER OKA.
33
between the governments of Moscow and Tula,
and is one of the largest rivers of European Russia.
In spring it is an immense river, and approaches
nearly to the barrier of the town, but in summer it
is much smaller, though it never loses its majestic
appearance. Its banks present fine views, and on
its south side is one of the best cloth manufactories,
in Russia. This fabric belongs to Mr. Baradu-
litch, who makes no difficulty about showing it.
The Oka is, of course, crossed upon the ice in
winter ; in spring, for some days after the breaking
up of the ice, all communication is stopped for
carriages; but, for transporting the mail, a floating
road of barrels and deal planks is formed, and per¬
sons on foot carry the bags. As soon as the
immense masses of ice have ceased to flow, rafts
are employed and continued till about the middle
of the month of May, when the Oka having regained
its proper channel, an excellent floating-bridge is
arranged. Having crossed this river by a raft,*
our horses found so much difficulty in dragging the
carriages through heavy sand that we were glad to
walk. We now followed the banks of the Oka for
some versts, admiring the extensive rich meadows
which are irrigated by inundation in the spring,
and which yield extraordinary crops of hay without
toil to the husbandman. We then turned to the
south, passed the village Lipetski, and continued
* Clarke has given an excellent representation of the passage
of the Oka.
34
ZAVODI, VOSHAN, AND VOLOTYA.
our route to Zavodi, the next post station, through
a pleasant and undulating country, though in a
great measure destitute of wood, and presenting a
white clayey soil. At 13 versts from Zavodi we
met with an accident, not uncommon in travelling-
in Russia ; a horse in one of the carriages dropped
down and expired. We were then told that the
yamstchik had only arrived two hours before us at
Serpuchof, from Zavodi, with a heavy carriage, and
that, as there were no other horses at that station,
the smotritel had ordered him to return with us.
The day was very sultry, and although the horses
were evidently fatigued, we did not apprehend
such a catastrophe. After bargaining with a num¬
ber of individuals, who demanded a most exorbi¬
tant price, we at length succeeded in obtaining four
horses from a neighbouring village for a ten-rouble
note, which was considered a moderate sum under
such circumstances. Zavodi is a village of consi¬
derable size, with straw-covered houses, situated in
a hollow, and ornamented by a new and elegant
post-house. The road having become excellent
since we crossed the Oka, opposed no obstacles to
our progress; and the drive to Voshan was rapid
and delightful, as well as that from Voshan to Vo¬
lotya. Each of these villages is provided likewise
with fine post-houses. The country through which
we passed appeared fertile, is scattered with
villages, but is too bare of wood. We arrived at
Volotya in the evening, yet it was our intention only
post-master’s trick.
55
to change horses there, and to dine at Tula, though
late at night. But the smolritel, by one of the
tricks common to his brethren, deprived us of post-
horses ; and, as he had apartments, was most
desirous that we should pass the night under his
roof. Neither persuasion nor menaces had any
effect upon him, though I was quite certain that
lie had post-horses in the court. At length, on
proposing terms to him, he asked 15 roubles, and
said he would engage peasants’ horses for us imme¬
diately. I apparently consented, and in the mean¬
time desired him to register our poderojne in his
book, the number of horses we took, and the post¬
hire for them, which amounted to six roubles. He
did so; and, of course, proved that we were to
receive post-horses. I paid down the six roubles,
and added, I will arrange for the nine roubles at
Tula. Having reached that town I wrote him a
note in Russ instead of sending him the money;
reminded him of his roguery ; threatened to com¬
plain against him to the governor; and informed
him, that if he had any just claim upon the party,
he would find them in the St. Petersburgh inn at
Tula, and would meet with justice; but we heard
no more of him.
During the last station, after having made about
half the distance, we, for the first time, employed
the drag-chain in descending a steep hill. Dark¬
ness came upon us; but at 11 o’clock in the evening
we got comfortably housed in the above-named inn.
d 2
3(3
TULA.
We passed two days at Tula, and very actively.
Next to the capitals, it is one of the most interesting
cities in the dominions of Russia, and therefore
deserves a particular description. It is the chief
town of the government to which it gives a name,
and lies upon both sides of the Upa, at the distance
of900 versts from Petersburgh, and 185 versts from
Moscow. It is supposed to be a very ancient
town, and to have been built by the first inhabit¬
ants of the neighbouring regions, the Sarmatians
and the Tchoods; but the date of its foundation
cannot be fixed with precision. One of the earliest
notices of it is in Stritter’s Russian History, where
he speaks of Sviatoslaf Olgovitch having passed
through it, in the year 1147. Ancient Tula, how¬
ever, did not occupy exactly the same situation as
the present town, but was situated on the right
bank of the Upa, at the embouchure of the Tulitsa,
but of it no traces are now to be seen. Modern
Tula was founded in the year 1509, and surrounded
by a ditch and rampart. The great importance of
this town, situated on the road by which the Tar¬
tars and the Poles made irruptions into Russia,
induced the Great Duke Vassilii Ioannovitch to
build a citadel in the centre of the fortress, which
was commenced in 1514, and finished in seven
years. This citadel still exists, and forms an
oblong square of great size, with towers at its
angles, and gates in the centres of its walls. Within
them we remarked the cathedral of the Assumption,
a wooden exercise-house, and some salt magazines.
TlJLA.
37
Tula has often been the theatre of war when
Russia was invaded by her enemies, and her inhabi¬
tants generally behaved with determination and cou¬
rage, and successfully resisted them. Notwithstand¬
ing this, in the year 1605, they received the traitor,
the false Dmitrii, with acclamations, and fought in
his cause; and, in 1607 , they shared in the revolt of
another impostor, who called himself “ the Tsare¬
vitch, Prince Peter, son of the Tsar Phedor Ivano-
vitch they gave him shelter in the town, and
not only defended him, but made different success¬
ful sallies. In 1613, when Poland was invaded by
the Poles, Tula was ruined and its environs burned.
Under the wise government of the Tsar Michail
Phedorovitch, it recovered its former prosperity;
and, notwithstanding some great fires, especially
in 1779 and I 7 SI, up to the present date it has con¬
tinued to be one of the most populous and flourish¬
ing towns in the Russian empire.
The situation of the present Tula is partly low
and partly somewhat elevated. It occupies both
sides of the Upa, and is formed of three great divi¬
sions. The first, 011 the left bank of that river,.and
around the citadel, is called the Posadskaya Sto -
rona; the second, on its right bank, is named
Zaretskaya Storona-, and the third, on the same
bank, opposite the fortress, is nominated Pchul/cova
Sloboda ; all of which compose four police-quar¬
ters, one of which is called the Orujeinaya Storona,
on account of its vicinity to the arm-fabric. 1 wo
i) 3
38
TULA.
suburbs, inhabited by the post-boors, likewise lie
close to the town. The communications between
all the divisions of Tula, are maintained across the
Upa by a number of wooden and stone bridges,
none of which have any grandeur. The number of
houses in Tula may be reckoned at 5000, and that
of the inhabitants at 30,000 or 35,000, exclusively
of the troops which are always stationed in the
town. In it there is a monastery and a nunnery,
besides 26 churches, all built of stone. The edifices
which chiefly attract the stranger’s attention, are the
Arm-Manufactory ; the Gymnasium of the govern¬
ment of Tula; Alexander’s School, which was open¬
ed in 1802, for the education of youth at the expense
of the nobility ; the Foundling Hospital, which is a
branch of that at Moscow; the House of Correc¬
tion ; the Ostrog, or Prison ; the Arsenal ; the Ba¬
zars, or shops, amounting to 7000 or 8000, which
deserve examination, especially the hardware and
cutlery shops. Some visitors will also find amusement
in examining the silk and hat fabrics, and the tanne¬
ries. In Tula, it is said, there are 106 streets, a few
only of which may be called handsome. There is
a continual mixture of wood and stone houses in
this town, but the Kievskaya, and the Bolshoi Mil-
lione streets are lined on both sides with stone
houses, many of which are massy and in good
taste.
The Arm-Fabric has long been the object which
has met with the greatest attention of travellers at
ARM-FABRIC AT TULA.
39
Tula, and we procured easy access to examine it in
detail. A short sketch of its origin and progress
may precede my remarks as to its present state.
About the end of the 16th century the rich iron
mines in the neighbourhood of Tula seem to have
led to the assembly of about 30 smiths, in one of
its suburbs called Kuznetskaya Sloboda, or Smith’s
Suburb, who enjoyed certain immunities and
advantages, and who were occupied in making
fire-arms and small arms. Their numbers were
successively augmented in the years 1(586, 1687,
and 1707 ; but though the establishment was pro¬
tected and encouraged by the Tsar Phedor Alexie-
vitch, yet it may be justly said to have been founded
by Peter the Great. In the years 1712 , 1713, and
1723, many improvements were made by impe¬
rial order, and, in the year 1728, it was totally
renewed. In the years 1737, 1739, and 1742,
different additions and changes were made. The
whole fabric was re-established and improved in
the year 178.5, by Catherine II’s. orders; it was
protected and encouraged by the Emperor Paul ;
and, since the commencement of the reign of Alex¬
ander till the present moment, has received the
utmost attention.
An idea of the gradual progress of this manufac¬
tory may be formed from the number of hands who
have been employed in it at different epochs. As
already mentioned, they amounted to 30 at the end
of the 16th century; to 664 in 1704 ; to 2056 in
d 4
40
ARM-FABRIC AT TULA.
1724; to only 1088 in 1737, the rest having been
allowed to join the merchants ; to 4443 in 1702:
in the reign t of Catherine II. to 5152; and,
at present, to 7000 . Only one half of this num¬
ber are, however, in actual employment, there being
no great demand for arms in time of peace. The
workmen at the arm-fabric still enjoy peculiar
immunities and privileges; they form a peculiar
body, and have their judges selected from among
themselves. Those who are unemployed at the
fabric receive passports, go to other towns, and
search after employment of different kinds. For
this liberty they pay an obrok, or tribute, to the
treasury of the manufactory. The workmen are
divided into five trades —r barrel-makers, lock-
makers, stock-makers, apparell or furnishing-
makers, and makers of small-arms. The barrel-
makers, the lock-makers, and the small-arm makers,
consist each of 20 artels* ; and the stock-makers,
and the furnishing-makers, consist each of 10 artels.
Besides arms, the workmen also make mathematical
and physical instruments.
Till the year 1782, a larger or smaller quantity
of arms was annually made according to necessity,
so that the workmen were sometimes almost with¬
out work and provisions, and at other times were
necessitated to labour night and day. Subse¬
quently, fire-arms and small-arms were made
* Artels, societies or companies, who have a common purse
and funds, and are generally messmates.
ARM-FABRIC AT TULA.
41
annually for 15,000 men. In the year 1797? were
made 24,438 fire-arms ; 7553 were repaired; 4976
small-arms were made, and 8G12 repaired. In 1798,
were made, fire-arms 45,438, and repaired 6363;
small-arms 103,434, and repaired 17,340. In 1799,
were made, fire-arms 43,388, and repaired 4159 ;
small-arms 76,180, and repaired 883.
At the present moment the arm-fabric can
easily make 50,000 stand of arms annually ; and,
in case of necessity, even 100,000 ; but, of course,
they would not be of so good a quality.
As I have elsewhere particularly described the
improvements introduced into the arm-fabric of
Tula by our countryman, Mr. Jones of Birming¬
ham, I can only shortly allude to them here.*
That gentleman has re-organized the whole depart¬
ment of lock-making, and perfected the Russian
artizan in the knowledge of his trade. He has also
introduced improvements in the formation of most
parts of the lock by dies and swedging-pins ; a pro¬
digious saving of labour, in comparison of the old
method of forming them by the hammer. The
iron used at Tula is all brought from Siberia.t The
* Vide “ Account of the Organization, Administration, and
Present State of the Military Colonies in Russia,” &c. p. 52.
f Dr. Macmichael very incorrectly says—“ The articles,
among which the chief are bar-iron, bayonets, swords, and mus¬
kets, are fabricated from an iron ore found in the neighbour¬
hood.” But the Hon. Mr. Strangways properly states, “ that
the crown works of Tula employ, exclusively, Siberian iron.
See this gentleman’s very able and highly interesting paper on
42
ARM-FABRIC AT TULA.
greatest obstacles the fabric long encountered arose
from ignorance how to make and temper the best
steel. But in this respect it is said that the
greatest improvements have of late been made.
Mr. Jones, most likely, however, will not introduce
all his plans at once; and he will do well for him¬
self to receive some reward before he is too free in
his communications. Both the government and
private noblemen are distinguished in Russia for
their extravagant and seducing promises, and even
their liberal and prodigal deeds, so long as they
have some object in view, some advantage, real or
fancied, to attain; but the moment they are inde¬
pendent of a person’s services, they treat him with
neglect, and if they perceive that his feelings are
wounded, they sometimes add scorn and contempt
to insolence : besides, they act at times with a
degree of meanness and injustice which ill tallies
with their pretended rank in society, and their
assumed importance in the scale of nations, and of
which the meanest mechanic or tradesman in Bri¬
tain would be ashamed. But shame is little known
in Russia; and, as if the cold climate had some
physical effect, the “ rosy blush” of awakened con¬
science is rarely perceived.
1 have been extremely surprised by the very
opposite opinions of travellers as to the quality of
the geology of Russia, in the Transactions of the Geological
Society of London.—Second Series, vol. 1. part 1. note, p. 31.
ARM-FABRIC AT TULA.
43
the arms of the fabric at Tula, as well as the cutlery
of this town, which has been not unappropriated
termed the Sheffield and the Birmingham of Russia.
This wide difference must have arisen from igno¬
rance or prejudice. Tooke, speaking of the visit
of the Emperor Joseph II. to Russia, says, “ he
stopped at Tula to examine the hardware manu¬
factory, on which Catherine had spared no expence
for bringing it to its present perfection, and per¬
haps it yields in no respect for the beauty of its
workmanship to the manufactories of Sheffield and
Birmingham.”* Had Mr. Tooke been at Tula,
and exercised his own eyes and judgment, he could
never have spoken in such high terms of its pro¬
ductions ; but I suppose he was led away by the
opinions of the German writers. A late author
has spoken nearly to the same effect, “ Mais ce
qu’il y a de plus remarquable,” says he, “ ce sont
les fabriques en acier, et surtout celle d’armes, que
l’on travaille maintenant d’un tel fini qu’on ne peut
pas les distinguer des ouvrages AngloisJ’t A
Russian author has also reported, that the arms
made at Tula, in beauty and in workmanship, do
not fall below those of the best manufactories in
Europe.! These statements only prove, that their
authors were neither judges of cutlery nor of arms.
* Tooke’s Catherine II. vol. 2. p. 407*
t Lettres ecrites dans un Voyage de Moscou au Caucase par
le Docteur Kimmel, 1812. p. 4.
I Great Dictionary of the Russian Empire. Article, Ttila.
44
ARM-FABRIC AT Tl'lLA.
Dr. Clarke, — who was never fond of paying com¬
pliments to Russia, her productions, or her natives,
the ladies and the kozaks excepted,—when alluding
to the hardware and the cutlery of Tula, states,
that “ the work is showy, but very bad, and will
not bear the smallest comparison with our English
waresand, of the arms, he reports, that “ the
name of musket is almost all that connects the
appearance with the reality. It is wonderful any
troops can use them; besides being clumsy and
heavy, they miss fire five times out of six, and are
liable to burst whenever discharged.”*
I differ in opinion from all these writers. No
man who has the least knowledge of fire-arms, of
cutlery, and of what is technically called finish,
would ever compare the best productions of Tula
with those of Sheffield or Birmingham or, if they
did, the vast superiority of the latter would only be
rendered the more evident. It is but fair, how¬
ever, to admit, that very beautiful and highly-
finished fire-arms, small-arms, and a variety of
articles in cutlery and hardware, are now made at
Tula, both at the arm-fabric and in the town. One
person who lives in the Bolshoi Millione street, is
more famous than all his competitors; and he shewed
us guns and pistols which did him much credit,
but they were inferior to those made in England,
while he required a very high price for them;
* Clarke’s Travels, p. 180. and p. 183.
ARM-FABRIC AT TULA.
4 5
more, I think, than would be asked for as good, or
better, articles in London. There can be no ques¬
tion as to the accuracy of Dr. Clarke’s statement,
that the muskets were of a very inferior quality at
the time of his visit, as well as before Mr. Jones’s
arrival at Tula ; but, had they missed fire five times
out of six during the campaign of 1812, the battles
of Borodino, of Malo-Yaroslavets, and ofKrasnoye,
Sec. Sec., would not have been so bloody ; or, rather,
they would never have been fought. Therefore a
medium opinion as to the real quality of the Tula
arms and hardware is alone warranted by truth.
The future traveller, however, will likely be able to
give an account of the flourishing and improved
state of the arm-fabric under the care of Mr. Jones.
Russia has been peculiarly fortunate in her iron
founderies and her arm-fabrics; for, while she has
given an asylum to Sir Charles Gascoyne, to Messrs.
Baird, Clarke, Jones, &c. she has reaped the advan¬
tage of their talents and improvements.
CHAP. II
COAL MINES At TULA.-ARSENAL. — ANECDOTES. — YASNAYA
POLYANA.—MTSENSK OREL.—BOOKSELLING TRICK-SEVSK.
- LITTLE RUSSIA. -GLUCHOF. — BATURIN. -ANECDOTE.
— NEJIN.— BROVARI_THE DNEPER.— VIEW OF KIEF.-
KEYS TO THE HEART OF THE RUSSIANS.-SPREAD OF
LIBERAL OPINIONS. - KIEF. - ANIMAL MAGNETISM. -
TRIBUNALS. — GENERAL CORRUPTION OF ADMINISTRATION
THROUGHOUT RUSSIA.—CAPTAIN COCHRANE’S EVIDENCE.
- INSTANCES OF INJUSTICE.
The Emperor, anxious to have the coal, which is
found in different parts of the government of
Tula, properly examined, in the year 1817, through
his ambassador in London, engaged Mr. Long-
mire, of Cumberland, to go to Russia, and allowed
him a handsome salary. Accordingly, he arrived
COAL-MINES AT TULA.
+7
at Tula, with a number of workmen from Eng¬
land who received permission to quit their coun¬
try, sunk a number of shafts in different districts,
and made his reports to the government. He
found coal, which was worth working, at different
places, arid, after nearly four years’ residence, he
left Tula in 1821. The coal of this neighbour¬
hood for the most part contains a great deal of
pyrites, and the hard coal is mixed with much
soft coal and dross. The great object which the
Russian government had in view, was the employ¬
ment of coal in place of charcoal, in the furnaces
at the arm-fabric, and afterwards to have it intro¬
duced in place of fire-wood, for common use, in
the houses of the inhabitants of the town and
government, as well as of the neighbouring govern¬
ments, in which wood is both scarce and dear, and
in some parts of which the stoves are warmed by
means of dried turf, dung, and straw. It is true,
that the Tula coal is of an inferior quality, but it
was, probably, of little consequence with those ap¬
pointed to make a report as to its adaptation for the
purposes of the fabric, whether it was good or bad.
The fact is, that many interests were concerned;
and it would have caused heavy losses to some
individuals, had the plan been successful. Many
of the proprietors of forests, who supplied char¬
coal to the fabric, would have suffered by the
introduction of coal, and all the perquisites and
presents which the purchasers or agents have been
48
COAL-MINES AT TULA.
long accustomed to receive, would have been lost,
and would not have been replaced by others, as the
mines belonged to the crown. We need not, there¬
fore, be surprised, that the Tula coal was reported
to be altogether unfit for the purposes of the arm-
fabric ; and that, finally, the plan of using it in
lieu of charcoal was abandoned.
I believe there can be but one opinion as to the
use of the coal at Tula. In the arm-fabric, if it
was not adapted for every purpose, it might still
have been extensively used, either alone, or mixed
with some charcoal, and would have been a great
saving to the government. It assuredly is not so
well fitted for the warming of stoves. Accidents
often arise even from charcoal, which the inhabit¬
ants have been accustomed to manage from time
immemorial. We cannot, therefore, be astonished
that they should abstain from the use of pgritic
coal. That it, however, could be used, was proved
by the fact, that, even in the severest cold of
winter, Mr. Longmire burned nothing else in his
house. The way in which this speculation was
desisted, may serve as a specimen how all affairs
are managed in Russia: individual interest is con¬
stantly consulted, and the monarch and the govern¬
ment are daily deceived.
The Arsenal , sometimes named Orujeinoi Dvore,
or armory, is situate in the Zarelskaja Storona; it
consists of a fine large central edifice, and exten¬
sive buildings on each side, which inclose an im-
ANECDOTE.
49
mense court, and is unquestionably one of the most
remarkable structures in Tula. It is capable of
containing fire-arms and small-arms for 100,000
troops; but at our visit no more than for 75,000
men were arranged. Arms of all kinds, and of
different nations are tastefully displayed in the
vestibule, as well as in the upper and lower stories,
according to a regular plan. It requires a long
time to take even a glance of the interior of this
building. In a press in the lower story are pre¬
served different fusees, which are said to have been
made during the visits of the sovereigns of the
empire, and of the members of the imperial family,
to the fabric of arms, and to have been presented
to them before their departure, in order to show
the expedition and the quality of their workman¬
ship. They are so beautifully executed, that one
is apt to suspect the truth of the above account.
Soon after our arrival at Tula we sent our letters
of recommendation and our cards to the civil
governor, Count Vassilievitch, by a messenger
who was ordered to present our compliments, and
ask at what time it would be convenient for His
Excellency to receive us. The servant returned
with a card for each of us, and with a verbal mes¬
sage, that the governor being unwell regretted
much that he could not have the pleasure of seeing
us that day. Count G., to whom we had also sent
our letters and cards, very soon afterwards called
upon us, and invited our party to dinner. After
VOL. I. E
50
ANECDOTE.
remaining an hour, he proposed to carry us to a
short distance to see some regiments on parade.
On our way thither in one of the principal streets
an equipage rapidly approached. Count G. asked
if we had any letters for the civil governor. We
replied, we had sent some to him. But before
we had time to add another word, the Count said,
“ This is the governor,” and made a sign that he
wished to speak with him. The carriage stopped
accordingly, and we were introduced to him. This
might have been expected to be rather an awk¬
ward rencontre, but Count Vassilievitch behaved
with the greatest sang froid and politeness. The
ordinary salutations being over, he tranquilly said*
“ Gentlemen, I had the honour of receiving your
letters, and of returning an answer to your polite
message. Though unwell, I thought afterwards
of going to call upon you, and am now so far on
my way.” But we found that the Count was on
his road to call upon another traveller, who had
taken up his quarters at the same inn.
On the same day we dined with a Russian
Count, who was most affable, obliging, and com¬
municative. He invited us also to supper; and the
invitation, after some attempted evasions, was ac¬
cepted. At half past nine o’clock we arrived at
the house, and, to our utter astonishment, were told
by the servant in the anti-chamber “ that his master,
the Count, was gone to bed.” On the following
.51
HOUSES OF THE PEASANTS.
clay his excellency called upon us, made an
awkward apology, and continued his kindnesses.
On the 13th April, in the evening, we left
Tula, and near the Kievskaya Zastava, or barrier,
we had a fine view of the town. A church, in an
elevated situation, in the middle of the public
cemetery, which had previously attracted our atten¬
tion, rose before us. It is of a roundish form,
adorned with columns, and surmounted by a dome,
and affords a singular specimen of ecclesiastic
architecture. Its height is by far too great for its
other proportions; and, as Dr. Clarke, who has re¬
presented it in a view of Tula, has well said, it is
more like a nobleman’s palace than a place of
worship.
Soon after quitting Tula we were struck wi th
the blackness of the soil, and the nakedness of the
country. Having advanced about 12 versts, it
became undulating and woody; and near the 1st
station, the interest of. the scenery was enhanced
by the noble mansion of Princess Volchonskii.
South of Tula there is not such a profuse waste
of timber in the construction of the houses of
the peasants as nearer St. Petersburgh, for the
best of reasons, that it is infinitely dearer. In¬
deed, some of the houses are not built in the
usual way with large balks, or real trunks of trees,
morticed together at the corners, but consist of
wattled wicker-work. The dwellings,—or. rather
the huts, of the peasants, which range along both
e 2
52
YASNAYA POLYANA.
sides of the road, are more paltry in their appear¬
ance, and more simple in their structure, than
those between the capitals. Indeed they gra¬
dually become more miserable as we proceed
southward, till we come to regions where stone
abounds. The vignette at the top of this chapter
illustrates the appearance of the better houses of
the Russian peasants, with their gables fronting the
road ; as well as their usual mode of drawing water
from numerous wells remarked in almost every
village; and the manner of travelling in winter.
The costumes are too characteristic to require de¬
scription. In the first vignette is obscurely seen
one of the meaner huts on the right, many of
which we remarked in our progress to the south.
Yasnaya Polyana is called a seltzo, or small
village with a church; and the traveller is not
deceived by its unassuming appellation. From
this station to Solova the scenery is of the same
kind; the soil still blacker, and the corn-fields so
extensive as to seem boundless: and such was
the face of the country, with little variation, to
Mtsensk. * In the way thither we passed a few
of the seats and villas of the nobles, and near
Sergievskoye, the fine house of Prince Gagarin
presented itself before us.
The stranger who leaves Moscow with the idea
that the Russians are barbarians, and that the coun-
* This town is called Metzinsky by Macmichaeh
VILLAS OF THE RUSSIAN NOBLES.
53
try is in a savage state, must be equally astonished
and gratified by the sight of such noble mansions,
such splendid villas, and such beautiful estates, as
every now and then burst upon his view. They are
indications of a certain degree of civilisation and
taste for improvement; although not commensurate
to what a mere inspection might suggest. They are
rather the harbingers of future, than the test of pre¬
sent refinement in the general population, or, more
correctly speaking, among the mass of the nobility.
For, though it cannot be denied that some of the
travelled nobles, of those who have passed their
days at court, or who have dwelt much in the
capitals, have adopted all the refinements of po¬
lished life in their palaces, in their gardens, in
their carriages, in their persons, and in their man¬
ners, and have encouraged literature and the fine
arts, yet it must be avowed that a love of dis¬
play, rather than real taste and knowledge, have
led to the erection of enormous edifices, the form¬
ation of extensive gardens, valuable collections of
paintings, as well as cabinets of minerals and other
productions of nature. Hence, it frequently hap¬
pens that, after having admired a magnificent
mansion, we can scarcely suppose that we are in
conversation with its proprietor, so inconsistent is
the tenor of his questions and his answers, and
his general behaviour, with the princely place he
occupies.
At the distance of sixteen versts from Mtsensk,
k 3
54
MTSENSK.
we entered the government of Orel, as was indicated
by a massy square column. Mtsensk is the chief
town of one of the districts of this government,
and lies upon both sides of the Zusha, and at the
embouchure of the Mtsena, from which it derives
its name. It is situated in a plain, but surrounded
on every side by hills: its vicinity is rich in
meadows and corn-fields, but not in wood. Like
most of the towns of Russia, its appearance at a
distance is much more pleasing than its reality.
This is chiefly owing to the number of churches
and monasteries which are found every where,
gaudily painted, and almost always displaying
their gilded domes. Mtsensk is divided into three
parts: the Zamok, or Castle, as it is called; the
Kremle ; and the Zemlianoi-Gorod. The houses
are mostly built of wood, and amount to 800 or
900. The population has been stated at from
3500 to 5000 souls, and for this population there
are twelve churches, besides a monastery, at which
divine service is daily performed. Like all the
edifices for the tribunals, &c. which arose in the dis¬
trict towns of Russia, in the reign of Catharine II.
that of Mtsensk greatly resembles a palace. The
principal commerce of this town consists in
corn and hemp, which are embarked upon the
Zusha, and by means of the Oka, into which this
river falls, they are transported throughout the
empire.
Having left Mtsensk, we advanced rapidly
OREL.
55
through an unornamented but fertile country, and
in the afternoon entered Orel at full gallop. We
got into a very dirty inn, though it was said to be
the best in the town ; and, had it not been for our
own cook, we should have fared badly.
Orel is the chief town of the government of the
same name. It is situated on the banks of the
Oka and of the Orlik, which join together in the
town, at the distance of 367 versts from Moscow.
The traditions of the vulgar derive its name from
Orel, an eagle, and pretend that this bird indicated
where the town should be built. This reminds us
of the eagle which was said to hover over the
head of Prince Kutuzof before the memorable
battle of Borodino, and was ominous of victory.
But we believe the eagle was only seen in books;
and if it did show itself, it rather portended de¬
feat ; for though the Russians made a noble stand
at that village, they were subsequently obliged to
retreat. The name Ordl is evidently derived from
the Orlik.
The date of the origin of Orel is unknown, but
it was almost entirely destroyed by the Lithuanians
in the beginning of the 17 th century; indeed it
has frequently been pillaged and ruined both by
the Poles and by the Krim Tartars. It extends
along the banks of the Oka and the Orlik, chiefly
upon an extensive plain, amidst gentle hills, which
being nearly destitute of wood, have a bleak ap-
e 4
56
OREL.
pearance. It is divided into three quarters, the
Moskovskaya, theKromskaya, and theZaorlltskaya.
The terrace—formed by the palace of the governor,
the house of the vice-governor, the post-office, the
dwelling of the commanding general, and the
ostrog, or prison, with its towers and white walls,
likealittletown, — occupiesacommandingsituation,
and forms the chief ornament of the city. By far
the greatest part of the houses are built of wood,
at the same time there is a considerable admixture
of stone edifices, and their number is daily in¬
creasing. The scarcity of wood in this part of the
Russian empire, is conducive to the improvement
of architecture, as it forces the inhabitants to use
stone. Few of the streets in Orel are worth notice.
There are 18 churches and two convents in this
town, which, as well as the popular school and the
tribunals, only claim a glance from the traveller. In
the year 1805, the number of its inhabitants was
estimated at about 7717) and by Mr. Vsevolojskii,
in 1813, at 15,000; and, at that time, he probably
was accurate. In 1823, the same number is given
by this author; but, after the facts which have
come to our knowledge, we have no great faith in
his recent statements.
The arts of bookmaking, and of low booksellers
and publishers, are not unknown in Moscow and
Petersburgh. Examples of the illustration of this
fact might be easily given, but I shall content my¬
self with a single case, as it is a very remarkable
BOOKSELLING-TRICK. 5J
one on account of the individual who put it in
practice.
In the year 1813, a “ Dictionnaire Geographique-
Historique de VEmpire de Russie,” was published
at Moscow, by Mr. Vsevolojskii, State Counsellor,
Chevalier of the order of St. George, &c., who,
for many years, had the most distinguished print¬
ing-office in that city, and who is the present gover¬
nor of Tver. This dictionary is chiefly an abridge¬
ment of a great and most useful work, which made
its appearance likewise in the ancient capital of
Russia, between the years 1801-9, in seven volumes,
or parts, 4to., under the title of Slovar Gedgra-
phttcheskii Rossiiskaho Gosudarstva, or, “A Geo¬
graphical Dictionary of the Russian Empire.”
Being published in Russian, it has procured little
lame for its author, Mr. Stchekatof, beyond his
native country; and Mr. Vsevolojskii, in my opi¬
nion, did not sufficiently acknowledge his obliga¬
tions to the basis of his French performance. It is
true, he compiled likewise from other authors espe¬
cially from Pallas, and his account of Odessa he
took from Mr. Sicard’s Letters, nearly verbatim,
without the least allusion to their author. Mr.
Vsevolojskii’s two octavo volumes must have been
found particularly useful to travellers and foreign¬
ers ; and, though numerous errors, and some im¬
portant omissions, might be complained of, still I
am inclined to palliate the imperfections of a first
edition of such a production, and even to allow its
58
HOOKSELLING-THICK.
compiler considerable merit for his labours. A
number of copies of this work being retained
for sale in Russia, the principal part of the edi¬
tion, I have been told, was sent to be disposed
of in Germany. Four years ago a copy of Mr.
Vsevolojskii’s dictionary could not be bought, but
at an extravagant price, in either of the capitals of
the northern empire; but, after another twelve-
month, it was exposed in all the booksellers’ shops,
and at the original price of 16 roubles. On express¬
ing my surprise at this circumstance to a book¬
seller, he replied, that the solution was very simple.
“ Most of the copies,” said he, “ which were sent
to Germany, not having been sold, have been
returned to Moscow, and we are now in possession
of them.” Last spring a new edition of the work
in question was announced in the newspapers; I
read the advertisement with mingled feelings of
astonishment and suspicion of fraud. Soon after¬
wards the said edition was published, and I pro¬
cured an early copy, and subjected it to examina¬
tion and comparison with my copy of the first edi¬
tion. I discovered that the chief differences between
the copies were the following, — that of the first
edition had a blue cover, that of the second a red
cover; the last had received a new title page, a
re-printed dedication to the Emperor, an “ Avis
aux Lecleurs;” and, besides, an “ Avertissement sur
cette seconde edition .” Two or three pages had
been re-printed in the body of the work, that it
COMMERCE OF OREL.
59
might not be exactly the same as the first edition,
and an Appendix was added of 32 pages, said to
have been composed by Maurice Allart; and which,
had there been really a second edition of the book,
of course would most naturally have been incorpo¬
rated in alphabetical order with the original work.
But the fact is, that no second edition was printed.
The changes and additions having been made as
above enumerated, the second edition was patched
up out of the first edition. Independently of the
difference of paper, and other indubitable evidence
of this deceit, unfortunately the marks of the glue,
and of the blue cover of the second volume, of the
first edition, almost half an inch broad, have not
been destroyed in my copy. Although the trick
has been awkwardly managed, yet some finesse was
attempted, as the inquisitive reader may assure
himself of by inspection.
The soil all round Orel is black, and yields most
abundant crops. This town may be reckoned the
emporium of commerce between Russia, Little
Russia, and the Crimea, and at the same time the
depot of corn, both of its own and the adjacent
fertile governments. The principal articles of com¬
merce are corn, hemp, tallow, butter, bristles,
leather, honey, wax, cloth, horned cattle, &c.,
which they chiefly buy in the southern provinces.
They also deal in wine brought from Little Russia,
from the Krimea, and from the Don. Enormous
quantities of most of these articles are embarked
Go
SEVSK.
upon the Oka, and transported to Petersburg!),
Numerous manufactories, similar to those we have
enumerated at Serpuchof, also exist in Orel and
its vicinity. The inhabitants of this government
are, upon the whole, industrious and wealthy.
Having dined at nine o’clock in the evening, we
left Orel and travelled all night and the following
day, by the stations indicated in our itinerary, to
Sevsk, where we arrived at 5 p. m. of the 15th for
dinner. From Orel to this town the country is
rich, has the same black soil, and is scattered with
villages. Few of the places we saw deserve notice,
Kromi is a district town of the government of Orel,
built at the confluence of the Nednaand the Kroma.
Its population amounts to about 5000. It was
founded in the year 1594 for the defence of the
frontier provinces. Dmftrevsk is likewise a district
town of the same government, and stands upon the
rividet Obstcherftsa. It is but a trifling place, and
its only ornament are three churches. It was one of
the first towns which hoisted the standard of revolt
in favour of the false Dmitrii. It was long after¬
wards presented by Peter the Great to the Hospo-
dar of Moldavia, at whose death it returned to the
crown. Sevsk forms another district town of the
government of Orel. It occupies the left bank of
the Seve, from which it has received its name. Its
population has been stated at 4500. Even with
its ten churches it has a paltry appearance. In
ancient times it was surrounded by a wooden wall
RUSSIAN VILLAGES.
til
flanked with towers, and by a ditch, like most of
the frontier towns near Poland.
Some of our party were surprised that a black¬
smith, who had been sent for, would not undertake
a few trifling repairs to one of the carriages, it being
six o’clock on Saturday evening, at which time the
Russian Sunday commences ; and, indeed, the Sa¬
turday evening is often kept equally sacred with
Sunday, if not more so. Having arranged the car¬
riage with ropes, we left Sevsk late in the evening,
and travelled all night. In the morning of the
16th, a verst beyond Tolstudubova, and 195^ versts
from Orel, we remarked a wooden pillar, with the
imperial arms, indicating the entrance into the
Ukraine, or Little Russia, and the government of
Tchernfgof. The foreigner often complains of the
want of accommodation, even on the road from
Petersburg]! to Moscow, on which arc found by
far the best wooden villages in Russia. But on
the road by which we were now travelling, he is
ready to lose all patience, because he is as yet un¬
acquainted w r ith this country. Most of the villages
have a very mean exterior, and consist of straw-
covered cottages, in which you find stoves without
chimneys, and which are completely filled with
smoke in the mornings, the door, and a hole in the
wall, when opened, forming its only means of
escape. The roofs and upper part of the walls are,
of course, covered with soot. All the dirtiness
and filth of the Russian peasants is remarked to the
02
DIRTINESS OF THE RUSSIANS.
very frontiers of the Ukraine, which circumstance
only renders more striking the difference between
their habits and manners and those of the Little or
Malo-Russians. The first station we reached in
the country of the latter is Yesman, and though
only 19 versts beyond the pillar above noticed, it
seemed as if we had been transported to a new
country. The houses, unlike those in Russia Pro¬
per which present their gables, front the road; and
their exterior is white-washed. The interior is
separated into kitchen, room, and bed-room, even
in small houses. The rooms are furnished with
tables, chairs, and bed-steads of unpainted fir-wood,
and over the beds we remarked white coverlets.
At the post-house we found the smotritel and his
wife, clean and orderly. They were greatly sur¬
prised at our examination of their house in detail.
In a word, here, without and within, all had a most
pleasing air of order, neatness and -cleanness.
Though inclined to urge, that the cold climate
of Russia, the circumstances of the greater part
of the peasantry, and the necessity of a whole
family being lodged in the same apartment, oppose
strong physical difficulties to cleanliness, yet it
appears evident, that there must be an hereditary
want of the principle of order among them, to
explain so remarkable a difference between the
Russians and the Little Russians, from whom they
are only separated a few miles, and, of course,
where the climate, at least, has no influence. But
GLUC1IOF.
(j,‘)
cleanliness is one of the fruits of civilisation, and
civilisation follows liberty; now, in my opinion,
the superior state of civilisation of the Malo-
Russians, can only be attributed to their not being
adstricti glebm, and their other peculiar immuni¬
ties, which generate and cherish independence of
spirit.
Another proof that the dirtiness characteristic
of the Russian peasantry does not altogether de¬
pend upon climate, or other physical causes, may
be derived from the account given by Captain
Cochrane of the mixed race of the people in
Siberia. “ On reaching the Asiatic side of the Ural
chain,” says he, “I could not help remarking, that
the inhabitants of all the villages were much more
civil, more hospitable, and more cleanly dressed.” *
In little more than a couple of hours, we were
transported to Gluchof, a remarkably pleasant and
lively small town, on a hilly situation upon the
Yesman, and by the side of a small lake. Its
streets are regular; the principal one is of no great
length, and has an arched gate at each end, being
the outlets to Moscow and to Kief. The houses
present their fronts to the streets, and are almost
all white-washed. It contains seven or eight
churches, and two convents. Formerly it was a
town of some moment, but it was nearly consumed
by a fire in 1782, and still, one of the churches
and some houses in ruins, attest that its former
* Narrative of a Pedestrian Journey, &c. p. 105.
f)4 OBSTINACY OF THE RUSSIANS.
prosperity has not returned. It is supposed to be
a very ancient town. After the treason of the
hetman of the Kozaks, Mazeppa, and the ruin of
Baturin, it became the residence of the hetman
of the Ukraine. It was for some time the abode
of the governor-general of Little Russia, but now
it is merely a district town.
From Gluchof to Tuligolova the road is more
level, and the country better wooded. We passed
crowds of peasants encamped upon the road-side,
and cheerfully partaking their social meals, while
their unyoked oxen and unharnessed horses were
feeding around them. The superior skill of the
Little Russians in thatching their houses, over
their neighbours, the Russians, struck us forcibly.
Some art and some care are shown by the former
in their work; the latter heap up quantities of'
straw upon the roof and fasten it down by means
of young birch trees laid over it, in all directions.
The consequences, in a stormy night, are dreadful,
especially if in winter. Whole villages are un¬
roofed, and the materials are carried all over the
country. But experience will not teach the
Russians. They re-cover their dwellings in the
same manner, though the same accident should
occur annually. From Tuligolova to Krolovets,
the road is sandy and heavy, and lined on each
side by high old willows, so that it has the appear¬
ance of an interminable avenue. Krolovets is
placed upon the rivulet called Dobroye-Vodi, or
BATURIN.
65
Good-Waters. With some adjoining villages, it is
said to contain 10,000 souls. It has but a very
paltry appearance. From Krolovets to Altinovka,
the road goes through woods, is sandy and heavy,
and greatly resembles many parts of the summer-
road between Petersburgh and Moscow. In other
places it is very broad, and is bounded on each
side by lofty, and even venerable willows, which
form an avenue on each side. These southern
roads may have suggested the idea to the em¬
peror, Alexander, of having all the principal
roads throughout Russia adorned in a similar
manner. In this drive we observed a good deal
of wood, often dividing immense corn-fields, a
number of small lakes and ponds, and, within
three versts of the next station, after emerging
from a forest of stately pines, Baturin suddenly
burst upon us. The palace of the late and last
hetman of the Ukraine, Count Razumovskii,
placed upon the top of a hill, an elegant adjoin¬
ing church, and numerous houses of the peasants,
with the Seiina at this season more like a lake
with numerous islands than a river, in the fore¬
ground, altogether formed an imposing picture.
Early after the breaking up of the ice, the passage
of the Seima is no easy affair; and even, when
somewhat later, we found it very disagreeable.
After going through water, we crossed a wooden
bridge, got to dry land, and then embarked upon a
raft, landed upon an island, crossed another w ooden
VOL. I. F
66
BATURIN.
bridge, and soon afterwards reached the post-
house in the town of Baturin. The band of the
Kozaks, who parade near this river every evening
in summer, were playing in martial stile when we
arrived. Here we found a good inn ; and, having
ordered dinner, went out to examine the town and
palace.
Baturin is situated in the district of Nejin, and in
the government of Tchernlgof. It is dignified
with the appellation of town ; but it struck us as
being a very irregular built village. It contains
but few good houses, two or three of which, how¬
ever, reminded us of English cottages. It con¬
tains a convent, and four parish churches. It is
distant from Kief, 215 versts, and was founded by
Batdrii, who gave it its name, when he was king
of Poland, and when all the neighbouring country
was subject to that power. In the year 1G54 it
came into the possession of Russia. At one time it
must have been a place of some strength ; for we
are told, that “ when Bogdan Khmelnitskii with
his Kozaks, submitted to this empire in 16G4,
John Casimir was in the territories of Russia, with a
formidable army, but dared not undertake the siege
of Baturin, on account of its strong fortifications.”
From the year l6f>9, it was the residence of the
hetmans of the Ukraine. The well-known traitor
Mazeppa, likewise hetman, chose it for his resi¬
dence in I7O8 ; but his crime proved its destruc¬
tion, for Peter the Great caused it to be razed to
BATURIN.
07
the ground. It afterwards, in some degree, re¬
covered this catastrophe; and the empress Eliza¬
beth made a present of it, and of all its dependen¬
cies, with a population of 9259 souls, to the last
hetman of the Ukraine, Count Kirfl Grigorievitch
Razumovskii; one of the many instances of that
profusion, with which the monarchs of Russia
have wantonly squandered the public money
upon their favourites: a profusion not confined
to Catherine II. The tsars and the emperors
have also been liberal in their waste of that pro¬
perty which did not belong to them, but which
absolute despotism could command without oppo¬
sition, and dissipate without availing censure.
Baturin now belongs to Count Andrei Kirilo-
vitch Razumovskii, one of the sons of the late
hetman, who has here a considerable and celebrated
manufactory of wax candles, and two cloth fabrics.
I have been informed, that the population of
Baturin and its dependencies has been greatly
augmented since it first came into the possession of
the Razumovskii family, and may now be reckoned
at 1500 souls; besides, about 700 Kozaks have
their residence here promiscuously with the pea¬
sants.
We traversed extensive gardens, all in disorder,
before we got to the palace. It is a handsome
building, the front is adorned by Doric columns,
and the wings are detached. It was built by the
hetman Razumovskii, but it has been long un-
GS
ANECDOTE.
occupied, and appeared to be going to ruin for
want of a few repairs.
We had heard so much of the extraordinary
beauty of Baturin, that we were somewhat dis¬
appointed on seeing it. It was the first place
where we had the opportunity of examining the
peculiar physiognomy and the dress of the Malo-
Russians, and of attending to their language, which
differs materially from that of the Russians. #
In their external appearance they more resemble
Tartars than the latter people; and they think
themselves, and I believe with good reason, far
superior to both.
One of my valuable and worthy friends passed
many years of his life at Baturin ; and as his case
subsequently at Moscow, well illustrates the reck¬
less nature of the arbitrary actions of an aristocratic
nobility, ungoverned by public opinion, I shall here
introduce it.
Dr. Hunt, a worthy and venerable man, nearly
eighty years of age, experienced a severity of
treatment, which has some parallels, yet, I am
happy to say, they are riot very numerous, in
Russia. He had been physician to the cele¬
brated Count Razumovskii, spoken of above, with
whom he resided many years at Baturin, and
at Moscow. After the old Count’s death, Dr.
* A useful Grammar of the language of the Malo-Russians,
bearing this title, “ Grammaiika Mdlorossiiskaho Naretcliia ,” was
published at Petersburg!! in 1818, by M. A. Pavlovskii.
ANECDOTli.
G9
Hunt entered the service of one of his sons,
Count Leon Kirilovitch Razumovskii, with the
same conditions which he had had from the het¬
man, and lived in terms of great harmony and
friendship with his excellency till his death in
the year 1818. The Count left extensive pro¬
perty both to his wife and his children. Rut a
dispute arose about the legality of the marriage,
and a law process was the consequence. In the
meantime, the Countess pretended, that being un¬
certain as to the result of the said process, she
could no longer retain Dr. Hunt in her service.
Thus, this old man who had been in the Razu¬
movskii family above twenty-five years, was in a
moment cut off from an annual revenue of nearly
ten thousand roubles. Her ladyship did not use
the language of consolation, or of hope, when
the messenger was sent to communicate the news
of his discharge i 'she did not say, if the process
was decided in her favour she would do any thing
to make Dr. Hunt’s condition comfortable: and
even when she did obtain a favourable decision,
she made no offer to do the smallest office of kind¬
ness to him!
To the honour of some of the higher nobility,
be it recorded, such inhuman conduct did not pass
without severe animadversion and reprobation.
Had not Dr. Hunt had a small competency for life,
in a reduced rank of society, apparently, he might
f 3
70
NEJIN.
have experienced an instantaneous change from
living like a nobleman, and driving his carriage
with four horses, to the deepest poverty.
Dr. Hunt has now paid the debt of nature; and
I understand that the Countess has been profuse
of her worldly goods to a young medical man, who,
treated her with animal magnetism, at present a
favourite means of cure, as we shall see hereafter,
in Russia as well as in Germany.
We left Baturin in the evening, changed horses
at Borzna, a small town full of churches, and pro¬
ceeded to Komarovka, a large village. We entered
it with the flocks and herds which belonged to the
peasants, consisting of a motley assemblage of
cows, calves, sheep, goats, and especially pigs.
We were highly amused at seeing the Malo-
Russian women rushing out from their dwellings,
bawling to, and beating, and separating their share
of the common stock, and driving them home¬
wards, while the lazy herdsman sat down to repose
himself, his duty being fulfilled.
A rapid drive through a pleasant country
brought us to Nejin, which is reckoned the finest
town in Little Russia, and merits more attention
than it seems to have generally attracted. It is a
district town, is seventy-four versts south-east of
Tchernigof, and occupies the left bank of the Os-
ter. Its situation is nearly level. The streets are
numerous and intermixed with many large gardens,
filled with fruit-trees of various kinds, which were
NEJIN.
71
observed in the fullest bloom. Some of the houses
are of wood, but more of stone, or of wood with
their exterior covered with clay in lieu of plaster,
stuck over with small pieces of brick, and white¬
washed. The principal street, which formed part
of our road, contrary to what we generally find in
Russia, is extremely narrow, and has quite an
European appearance, being lined with shops and
crowded with people. Nejin is surrounded by an
earthen rampart, and the banks of the river are
neatly embanked with wood. It contains above
1000 houses, two convents, and sixteen churches,
all of which seem to be built after the model of those
at Moscow ; and, like them, also display a variety
of crosses over their summits. Besides Russians
and Kozaks, many Greek families, who enjoy
great privileges, as well as Armenians, compose
the population of this town, which may be esti¬
mated at 12,000 souls. The Greeks and Arme¬
nians, who have the greatest share of the flourish¬
ing commerce of Nejin in their hands, have con¬
nections with Turkey, Poland, and Silesia.
Of all the objects at Nejin the splendid gymnasium
of Bezborodko claims most attention. It is a very
large edifice, adorned by a colonnade of twelve
Ionic pillars; and, being surrounded by high trees,
it has a truly noble appearance. It was instituted
a number of years ago by Count Bezborodko for
the education of young nobles and burghers. As
the system of education here followed is every
f 4
72 NOSOVKA.-KOZARI.
way similar to that of the best institutions in the
empire, of which I have elsewhere treated at
length, I shall not enter into its details.*
Unable to procure post-horses at Nejin, and un¬
willing to be detained, we preferred hiring, and
were obliged to do so likewise at the next station.
The road from Nejin to Nosovka is flat, in some
places sandy and surrounded by enormous corn¬
fields and extensive pastures, mixed with wood,
sometimes with ditches on each side, sometimes
with rows of willows, and sometimes naked. As is
common in the south of Russia, we crossed many
rivulets, and marshes, and low-lying places, upon
wooden bridges, and sometimes passed through
water, while the carriages could scarcely be dragged
along. In other places the road was heavy, and
as the horses could only go at foot pace, I had
time to examine the plants by the way.
From Nosovka, a Kozak village, although we
had only four horses as usual to each carriage, we
flew at full gallop to Kozari, in forty-five minutes, a
distance of nearly ten miles. It is needless to add
that the horses were excellent: they were also
beautiful, and they, as well as some of those we
got at the following stages, formed a wonderful
contrast to the over-worked and half-starved post-
horses which are frequently given near the capitals.
Kozari is a Kozak station. The extremely neat
* See Character of the Russians, p. 318. 546.
BllOVAUl.
73
house of tlie post-contractor, in the middle of a
court, induced us to enter it. Its interior, well-
furnished, tidy, and clean, astonished us. The
stables next were examined, where we saw above
a dozen very fine strong horses in good con¬
dition. The cause of this manifest prosperity
was explained by the fact that all the horses
belonged to the post-contractor, who devoted
his whole care and time to his business. Here
we were advised to take six horses for each car¬
riage, and at the time, we were suspicious that
difficulties were raised only for the purpose of im¬
posing upon us. We were afterwards well pleased,
however, that we had taken the advice; for after a
rapid drive of twelve versts, we had other twelve to
make through deep sand, over numerous marshes,
and across bad bridges, before we reached the station
of Kozelets, a district town in the government of
Tchernfgofj at which a very fine church is the only
object which arrests the attention. The road to
Semipolki being through an open country, and very
good, we arrived there in an hour and thirty-four
minutes, having made the distance of above six¬
teen miles. At Semipolki, a mean village, our road
joined that which leads to and from Petersburgh,
and we were obliged to pay eight kopeeks per
verst for each horse, instead of five as before. Tra¬
versing the same kind of scenery, we reached Bro-
vari. It had been our intention to arrive at Kief in
the evening ; and we had pushed on still with six
74
BROVARI.
horses in each equipage, with the view of passing
the Dneper before it was dark. The post-master
and the master of an excellent inn, represented to
us the danger of such an attempt, and the im¬
possibility of its execution at so late an hour in the
evening, it being now dark. We consented to
take their advice and wait till the morning; though
at the same time we suspected a collusion between
them in order to profit at our expence. Imposition
and deceit are so common among people of their
denomination, that travellers seldom believe any of
their statements till verified by ocular demon¬
stration. This was exactly our case ; but we found
that their accounts were all correct. We had
roused the whole house from their slumber; the
master (a German), mistress, and servants, were
soon in motion, and a good dinner was prepared,
to which we did ample justice; for we had only
eaten a morsel of bread from the time we break¬
fasted at Nejin. After a good night’s rest, and
partaking of an early breakfast, we left Brovari
with the same number of horses, which we still
found useful, as the road, though nearly level, is
sandy and heavy. We passed through many dense
and fine woods. Indeed, in former times, the
whole of the country which we were now traversing
formed an immense forest, which became the re¬
sort of banditti, who attacked and robbed the pass¬
ing travellers. To prevent this, the government
ordered part of it to be cut down, and especially
THE DNEPER.-VIEW OF KIEF. 75
near the sides of the road, so as not to afford a
lurking-place, which might cover a sudden attack,
and provide a secure retreat.
The Dneper had not yet returned to its channel
after the spring flood ; and we had to cross, as it
were, different lakes between islands, up to the
horses’ girths, before we reached the place of em¬
barkation upon the real river, which we passed
upon an excellent raft. About two versts from
Brovari, one of the steeples of Kief) and soon after¬
wards the town itself, came into view, and highly
diversified the scenery to which we had been for
some days accustomed. The views of Kief, on
the approach, are extremely varied and beautiful.
That from the river while crossing it is peculiarly
picturesque and interesting. The town rises to a
great height, on the crest of the hills, which form,
as it were, a beautiful amphitheatre over the
bosom of the majestic Dneper, whose banks are
broken with ravines covered with wood, or descend
with gentle slopes to the water’s edge. Their sides,
as vvell as their summits, covered by numerous
houses, monasteries, and churches, whose golden
domes reflecting powerfully the rays of a glorious
sun as we approached, presented a tout-ensemble
altogether enchanting. But this exterior splendour
only renders the disappointment experienced on
entering the town doubly severe.
Having gained the place of disembarkation,
while the carriages proceeded to make a detour by
the regular road, we ascended the steep hill in as
straight a line as we could, and unconsciously, and
irregularly, got within the ramparts of the fortifica¬
tion, in passing along which we had most charming-
views of the surrounding country. The sentinels
very properly asked an explanation, which being
given, and our poderojne and names having been
delivered to a police officer, we arrived in Kief.
In our progress from Moscow to this town, as well
as on the remainder of the journey, I found it of
(Treat service to observe certain rules which I had
<5
formed for myself in order to obtain information;
and, as a knowledge of them may be of use to the
future traveller in Russia, I shall here introduce a
few remarks.
There are two keys to the hearts of the Russians,
acquiescence among the higher, and bribery among
the lower ranks. By the former I have acquired
much information; but, the latter, I have never
employed. It was a considerable time after my
arrival in Russia, before I discovered, that any
intelligence would be given, provided the indivi¬
dual who wished to receive it knew how to con¬
duct himself. I shall illustrate this statement by a
couple of anecdotes. I was in company with a
nobleman, when he abruptly broke off the subject
of our conversation by the following exclamations :
“ Well, Doctor, I am altogether harassed with this
law process, which has now been in the tribunals
for ten years, and has cost me enormous sums of
KEYS TO THE HEARTS OE THE RUSSIANS. 77
money, besides a number of horses from my stud,
and other presents ; and now, when I expected a
favourable decision, my agents again tell me I must
still advance more cash or I am sure to lose. I am
now out of all patience. Ah! what rogues we
have in our courts of justice ! Nothing can be done
but by bribery, and bribery to such an extent, that
a man’s fortune may be spent before an important
cause is determined.” I replied; when he made a
pause, with a look which signified, what say you ?
“ Allow me to state to your excellency, that I think
your views are perfectly correct. Your civil ad¬
ministration is in a lamentable state, notwithstand¬
ing the boasted meliorations of Peter the Great, and
Catherine II. From reading I hadbeen led to believe,
that the legislature was in a state infinitely supe¬
rior to that in which I find it really to be. A poor
man, or a man without rank, can do nothing here ;
and from what you, as well as many others, have
told me, even a great man, and a rich man, has
no small difficulties to encounter, and a terrible
trial of his patience to undergo, before he can obtain
a decision, not to speak of the sums he expends.
Your courts are polluted by bribery and corrup¬
tion, and justice is almost expelled from their walls.
How clear is your own case ; one would suppose
it might be decided in ten days, nay, ten hours,
instead of ten years. I do not pretend to say, that
our courts of justice in England exhibit a picture
of perfection, but I cannot help wishing your cause
78 KEYS TO THE HEARTS OF THE RUSSIANS.
had been tried in that country!” During the
latter part of my reply, the gentleman exhibited
symptoms of great uneasiness; and, when I con¬
cluded, he again had recourse to his declamation —
“ What, in Britain! no, no ; I have been in Eng¬
land ; your legislature is defective enough. Don’t
I know how your members of parliament are
elected! how your laws are perverted, as well as
ours! And what is your far-famed and boasted
trial by jury? A dozen of ignorant men, often
picked up in the streets, are called upon to decide
important questions, and even upon life and death.
No, no, we have no trials by such kinds of juries,
thank God. In this respect we are much better
off than you ; for, in such important criminal cases,
we know at least, that men who have skill in their
profession, in fact, that judges will decide the des¬
tiny of those whose life or death may be pending.
Speak not of Britain to me. Law is the same
every where — it knows not justice — it is a shadow
without substance.” I was about to make a second
reply, and to correct the errors of the gentleman,
when he interrupted me by saying, “ My head
aches: I am in a state of agitation; pray let us
have no more of la>v to-day.”
By speaking as I did, I had acted in coincidence
with my conviction ; but, by attaching particular
blame to the miserable state of civil administration
in Russia, I degraded the countrymen of my oppo¬
nent, I roused his patriotic feelings for the great
KEYS TO THE HEARTS OF THE RUSSIANS. 79
nation , but at the same time I barred the door to
information. I therefore determined to profit in
future by the lesson which I had just received.
A few days afterwards the same nobleman, on
my visit, thus addressed me : — “ Well, my dear
Sir, I have been very busy this morning: only
look at the number of letters I have written myselfj
besides that packet prepared by my secretary.” —
“ So much the better,” said I, “ if they be respect¬
ing business of an agreeable kind.” “ An agree¬
able kind !” he vociferated ; “ no, indeed: they are
all about interminable law processes : — there is no
justice in Russia; —what, corruption in our tribu¬
nals ! — I cannot think of it: — I must send more
horses, as I have no spare cash.” He was here
interrupted by a man-servant, who said, “ Your
excellency, the horses are before the window.”
He then resumed, while approaching it, “ Ah,
Doctor, look here at these horses, some of the best
I have. I have got no spare money, and therefore
I must part with them. Where think you they are
to be sent ? I will tell you. A pair is a present to
-, my agent in the capital; I think they will
look well in his black calash. That other horse is
for-, my under-strapper, he will make a fine
appearance in his droshki. I am loath to part with
them, but there is no other alternative except the
loss of my cause.” “ Indeed, your case is very
hard,” I calmly answered. “ No help for it, my
dear Doctor. Vassilii, come here, put these letters
80 KEYS TO THE HEARTS OF THE RUSSIANS.
into your bag, and set oft in a telega immediately;
tell the servant to follow you with the horses, and
take care that no injury befal them on the road.
Let it be known, as is really the case, that now I
have no ready cash, but that when I receive the
obrok I shall be liberal, and shall not forget my
obliging friends.” The servant being despatched,
he again turned to me, and continued his speech:
“ It is hard, indeed, to send these horses away. I
have now made presents of a large number of
horses, besides some thousand roubles, since the
commencement of the present dispute, and still it
is unsettled, and God knows what may be the re¬
sult. If I could give a large sum of money at once,
the decision would be obtained, but this I have not
at present, and it is no easy affair for me to bor¬
row.” He now paused, in expectation of my speak¬
ing, and accordingly I replied. “ Indeed, Sir, I
think they ought to decide your cause early, since
you have been so very kind to them.” “ They
may decide,” said he, “ in my favour, and then
my opponents may carry the business to a higher
court; and, in that case, I shall have the same
system of bribery to renew, so that it is morally im¬
possible to say when a permanent favourable deci¬
sion may be given, if ever that happen; or what
enormous sums I may be necessitated to expend
before I gain my purpose. Is this not a hard
case?” “ Very hard, indeed,” said I; and lie con¬
tinued, “ Well, since I have already expended
SPREAD OF LIBERAL OPINIONS.
81
V
so much, I am determined to persevere, and to
make presents of all kinds, as long as my fortune
will stand it.” I merely answered, “ I hope your
excellency will ultimately succeed.” “ Pray, have
you heard the news ?” “What news?” “That
the Neapolitan rebels are all quelled;” and then
the subject was changed.
By associating with those military officers who
are endowed with open generous hearts much
information is also obtained. There can be no
doubt that liberal sentiments are taking deep root
among the Russian nobility, and especially among
the officers of the army. The campaigns of 1812,
1813, 1814, &c. have had a most powerful in¬
fluence in enlightening the minds, and meliorating
the hearts, of this class of society, the impulse of
which is likely to be felt by distant generations.
1 have been surprised, and highly pleased, to hear
some of these gentlemen uttering opinions which
reflected the highest honour upon their characters:
and I understand that in some foreign countries,
the Russian nobles have spoken in such a manner,
as at the time to have caused the belief, that they
were not only liberals, but even radicals; either really
so, or that, as spies, they had assumed these charac¬
ters. Time, however, has proved the fallacy of the
latter supposition, and generous and liberal opi¬
nions continue to make progress, in spite of op¬
position./ The illumination of Russia Proper pro-
VOL. i. c
82
KIEF.
ceeds, and will assuredly end in the overthrow of
despotism, though the time be yet distant. We
may, however, expect that the present Russian
empire will ere long be convulsed to its centre.
Kief, the ancient capital of the great Dukes of
Russia, and now the chief town of the government
of the same name, lies upon the west bank of the
Dneper, or Borysthenes, under 30° 27' east longi¬
tude, and 50° 27' north latitude. It is distant from
Moscow, according to our itinerary at the end of this
work, 878 versts, and from Petersburgh, by the
direct road, 1286 versts. It has received a great
variety of appellations, or of different forms of the
same appellation, in different languages, as Iviovia,
Kiioviie, Kiowia, Kiowie, Kiew, Kiow, Kiev,
Kieff, and lastly, Kief, which is the real name, and
gives the pronunciation in English, as spoken either
by a Pole or by a Russian. The Greeks knew
this town by a number of different names, which
are collected together by Sestrenevicz de Bohujz. *
Though involved in much obscurity, the foun¬
dation of Kief is referred to a period long an¬
tecedent to the Christian mra. t With much
plausibility, Mr. Tatistchef supposes that Kief
may have been built by the Sarmatians, the
most ancient inhabitants of the country, in which
* Recherches Ilistoriques sur l’Origine des Sarmates, &c.
vol. iii. p. 578, &c.
f On this point the Russian historians, and Gibbon’s Roman
Empire, vol. x. p. 219—225. may be consulted.
KIEF.
S3
it is situated, and received its appellation from
Kiovi or Kii mountains, while its inhabitants were
named Kivi, or mountaineers. The Sclavonians
who dwelt upon the Danube, having been chased
away by the Romans, were necessitated to seek for
other settlements. Some of them having arrived
on the Dneper, subdued the Sarmatians, who re¬
sided on its banks, established themselves among
them, and adopted their denomination translated
into their own language. Hence the Kivi were
called Gorianye * * * § , or mountaineers, the inhabitants
of the plain were denominated Polianye t, and
those who took up their abode in the north were
named Severianye.X Other writers attribute the
foundation of Kief to three Sclavonic princes,
Kii, Shtchek, and Khoref, and their sister Libed;
but no memorials of their reign are in existence. §
According to the Polish historians, Kief was
founded in the year A.D. 430. It belonged to the
Khozars, who had rendered the Gorianye, and the
Polianye tributary to them. In their turn, the
Khozars were overcome, and governed by two
distinguished Varaigue princes, Oskold and Dir.
The Russian chronicles contain no clear and cer¬
tain information respecting Kief, and the neigh¬
bouring country before the middle of the ninth
* From Gord , a hill,
\ From Pole , a plain,
£ From Sdvera , the north,
§ Vide Karamzin, vol. i. p. 33,
C 2
I in the Sclavonic
l language.
84
KIEF.
century. * The inhabitants of these districts, worn
out by continual wars with the Khozars and other
neighbours, and oppressed by heavy taxations, at
length sent a deputation to the Great Duke at
Novgorod, praying for assistance. According to
some, Riuik sent Oskold, a distinguished noble¬
man, with a numerous army, who delivered them
from the yoke of the Khozars, and remained
himself at Kief to govern them. Oleg, tutor of
Igor, the son of Rurik, having received com¬
plaints from the Kivii, against Oskold, and, per¬
haps, jealous of his power, assembled his army,
marched against him, slew him, confirmed his own
power in Kief, conquered many of the surrounding
tribes, and rendered them tributary, t From that
epoch this country was called Russia, and Kief
became the capital of all south Russia. In the
year 880, an event of great importance gave Kief
quite a new rank; the seat of the grand princi¬
pality, which had been hitherto at Novgorod, was
transferred to this town. In the year 1037 Kief
was declared the capital of all Russia by the Great
Duke Yaroslaf.
* Vide Rdcherches Ilistoriques sur FOrigine des Sarmates,
&c. by Sestrenevicz de Bohujz, vol. iii. p. 5S3.
f According to Sestrenevicz de Bohujz, Oleg carried the
young prince with him, and when he arrived at Kief, held him
up in his hands, and, addressing himself to Oskold, “ Behold
your master, you are only an usurper,” instantly caused
him to be massacred, Recherches Historiques sur FOrigine
des Sarmates, &c. vol. iii. p. 585.
KiiiF.
85
In the 11th century, Kief must have been a
town of considerable size, since it is said to have
then contained 400 churches, to' have been the
greatest ornament of Russia, and cemula sceptri Con-
stantinopolitani. * But, as Gibbon has with great
truth remarked, its degree of greatness and splen¬
dour, was compared with Constantinople, by those
who had never seen the residence of the Cmsars. t
Besides, as we have had many opportunities of re¬
marking, the number of churches in a town of
Russia does not form a true criterion, either of its
real importance or of its population : and in those
early times, the ignorant, superstitious, and un¬
bounded enthusiasm of a people in favour of the
Christian religion whose glorious beams had just
dawned upon them, most likely led to the erection
of innumerable temples, as the best means of in¬
suring eternal felicity. Since this is a prevailing
opinion in Russia, even in this comparatively
speaking enlightened age, we can easily conceive
how places of worship have profusely arisen in
every town, in every village, and in every street,
throughout the empire.
In 1169, after a long siege, Kief was taken, pil¬
laged, and burned by the troops of Prince Bog-
holyubskii and his allies 5 and in 1174 it was also
taken by Sviatoslaf Vsevolodovitch, Prince of Tcher-
nlgof. Pressed by the Tartars, who had not before
* Karamzin’s History, vol. i. p. 246., and Notes 522, 523.
f Decline and pall of the Roman Empire, vol. x. p. 225.
no
KIEF.
exacted sufficient attention, toward the end of the
twelfth century, the Great Duke Andrei Yure-
vitch Bogholyubskii, having transferred the great
principality from Kief to Vladimir, the former fell
entirely from its grandeur, became daily weaker,
and so often changed masters during the civil wars
of Russia, that at length, the princes of Lithuania
and the Poles took possession of it in 1205, after
the death of Roman, the prince of' Gallicia. In
Red Russia, the Russian princes chose Koloman,
son of the king of Hungary, to reign at Kief, but
he did not remain there a long time, for Mstislafj
hereditary prince of Gallicia, seized the town, and
made Koloman prisoner. In the year 1222, after
the death of Mstislaf, Koloman obtained his liberty
and his estates and reigned in Kief. In 1235,
Kief was taken by Isyaslaf, with the Polovtsi,
and Prince Michail with the Tchernigovians. In
1239, Batii, khan of the Tartars, took Kief, when it
was almost completely rased and destroyed. It
remained eighty years under the domination of the
Tartars, and, in 1320 it was seized by the Lithua¬
nians. In 1481, it was not only taken by Mengli
Gherri, khan of the Krimea, but also destroyed
and pillaged, and its fortifications ruined, and
the inhabitants with the Lithuanian Voevodes were
carried into captivity.
During the Polish government, the Roman
Catholics had not onlya bishop, a college of Jesuits,
and a convent of Dominicans in Kiefi but also
KIEF.
S7
some churches of their ritual, which were after¬
wards converted into Greek churches; all efforts
to unite the two forms of religion into one as in
former days having proved abortive. In 1654,
the Tsar Alexei Michailovitch took Kief from
John Casimir, king of Poland. By the peace of
Andrusof, Kief was left for a certain time to the
Russians in I 667 , but in 1686 it was altogether
ceded to them. In the year 1710 , at the division of
the Russian empire into governments, Kief was made
one of them, and its governor-generals commanded
the regiments established at Tchernfgof, Nejin,
Pereslavle, as well as on the frontier of the empire
on the side of Poland, the Krimea, and Turkey. In
the year 1782, all Little Russia was divided into the
three governments of Kief) Tchernfgof, and Nov-
gorod-Severskii. According to the last division in
1796, Kief remained the chief town of a govern¬
ment which now bears its name, but the towns
which are annexed to its jurisdiction, almost all lie
upon the right bank of the Dneper, and were re¬
cently acquired from Poland.
Individuals of different tastes may gratify them¬
selves at Kief. The lover of fine scenery and the
painter will betake themselves to the fortress and
the banks of the Dneper; — the devotee and the
monk will immure themselves in the holy caverns
with the incorruptible remains of the saints, and in
the churches ; — military men will be found in the
castle, and in the arsenals;—■ the antiquarian will
g 4
88
KIEF.
be chiefly delighted with old Kief and its vicinity;
— the architect will find little occupation, unless
the ecclesiastic structures of Russia interest him ;
and the historian, to a certain degree, will be in¬
terested by all those objects. *
On our arrival in Kief, after examining different
inns chiefly kept by Jews, we took up our abode in
one of them, a very small house, but pompously
nominated, “ Hotel do Londres We were com¬
fortably lodged, and found better cheer than ap¬
pearances led us to expect. The four days we
remained in this town, were most actively em¬
ployed. Our letters of introduction made us
acquainted with the commandant, General Arak-
tcheef, and with Mr. Bucharin, the civil governor,
with whom we dined, the day after reaching Kief.
Here we met with Count Oliza, the mardchal de la
noblesse, who also invited us to dinner. We were
agreeably surprised to find such good taste dis¬
played by the Polish and Russian nobility, resident
in this town. The greatest part of the society we
met with, was such as is to be found in the most
* Those desirous of finding a detailed history of Kief, and
of its monasteries and relics may consult the Geograph.
Slovar Ros. Gosudarstva, the Polnii Khristianskii Mcsiatsoslof,
both in Russ. Platon’s Puteshestviye iv Kieve, and likewise,
Reizze des Lord Harris von Moskwa nach Odessa, (von Seinem
Gefahrtem dem Hern Waleh.) Odessa 1803. Recherehes His-
toriques sur l’Originc des Sarmates,des Esclavons, et des Slaves.
Per M. Stanislave Sestrenevicz de Bohujz, vol. iii. chap. 34.
p. 576, drc. 4 vols. &c. Petersburg!), 1812. Histoire de la
Tauridc, by the same, 2 vols. 8vo. Brunswick, 1800. Karam¬
zins History of Russia, vol. i, p. 33. 120. 246, &c. de.
ANIMAL MAGNETISM.
89
refined circles of European capitals, but it must
be allowed we only saw the flower of it. At Count
Oliza’s we met with Major-general Orlof, who had
just quitted his command in Moldavia, and from
him as well as others, we learned that the Russian
troops were all waiting with anxiety the declaration
of war between Russia and Turkey. He formed
one of the partizans who distinguished themselves
in the campaign of 1812. By him we were invited
to sup at his father-in-law’s, General Raevskii,
whose prowess and military talents were conspicu¬
ously displayed in the campaign of 1812, especially
in the defence of Smolensk with 16,000 men
against the very superior forces of the French.
At General Raevskii’s we were introduced to a
Polish nobleman, Count Chodkiewicz, who has
porcelain fabrics in the vicinity of Kief who is a
great amateur of chemistry, and a strong advo¬
cate of animal magnetism, and probably of som¬
nambulism ; subjects respecting which a general
and lively conversation took place, in which the
ladies warmly participated. For the last ten years
animal magnetism has been much in vogue in Rus¬
sia, and by it a number of medical men have made
their fortunes. I was not surprised, therefore, that
every effort was made to have my opinion as to this
renowned method of curing diseases. At length,
finding evasions useless, I frankly stated, that for
some years after animal magnetism was greatly
employed at Petersburg!! and Moscow, I was one
90
ANIMAL MAGNETISM.
of its decided opponents and took all occasions of
turning it into ridicule, notwithstanding that some
of my friends, whose talents I highly respected,
were its greatest patrons; that I had received
some curious histories from undoubted authority,
and witnessed some experiments that astonishedme;
and that, as yet, I could not make up my mind to
decide, whether the marvellous cures were merely
happy coincidences, the effects of the imagination,
or the results of the operation of the boasted mag¬
netic fluid. With the utmost difficulty was I allowed
to maintain my determination to remain neutral
between the opponents and the patrons of animal
magnetism, which has but too frequently been
made the instrument of the greatest abuses, and
of the most immoral conduct, especially in Ger¬
many. There, indeed, it has led to the disgrace
of some well-known characters, and to the dis¬
honour of some families.
At a dinner party we got acquainted with a
gentleman who was dressed in a wide-flowing
dark purple-coloured tunic, and who belonged
to one of the tribunals of Kief, which being
more a Polish than a Russian town, still retains
some of its former privileges, and among others
that of having a fixed number of Poles in the
courts of justice. I was in expectation, in conse¬
quence of this, to have found the civil administra¬
tion in a state of greater purity, dignity, and in¬
dependence than in the other government towns
CORRUPT ADMINISTRATION IN RUSSIA. 91
of Russia ; but I was disappointed. My enquiries
only led to the confirmation of the opinions which
I have already laid before the public in the Character
of the Russians. It has been supposed by some,
that my animadversions upon this subject are more
severe than was warranted by truth. A few facts in
illustration of this important point may not be
misplaced here, and may afford some entertain¬
ment and information to the reader.
The following case is notorious at Moscow and
Petersburgh, and indeed among the mercantile
world, throughout Russia. Seven years ago, an
American gentleman who was established at Arch¬
angel, sent a quantity of cotton of the value of
about 300,000 roubles, to a Russian merchant resi¬
dent at Moscow, forthe purpose of being sold upon
commission. Soon afterwards he received intel¬
ligence that the whole of the cotton had been sold
to Mr.Phillipof, a merchant of the interior; and, to
his surprise, at a price much below what the state
of markets led him to have expected. The gentle¬
man was by no means satisfied with the transac¬
tion ; and his suspicion of dishonesty, from various
causes, having been more and more confirmed, he
set off to Moscow. Here he got such information
as led to the discovery of the imposition which
had been practised upon him. He went to the
Russian merchant who had really bought the cotton
and asked him if he would be so kind as to show
him his books, in so far as they had a reference to
92
INSTANCE OF INJUSTICE.
the affair. To this request he obligingly complied,
and even allowed the gentleman to copy any thing
he liked relative to the business. Thus fortified he
next called upon his agent, who entered into long
explanations, and then exhibited his books which
were all in regular order, and the name of Mr.
Phillip f and his residence affirmed. The American
then said there was no such person as the Mr.
Phillipof represented, and stated at all events, that
it was Mr. Rachmanof (I think this was the
name) who had bought the cotton. He now pre¬
sented the copy of the transaction from Mr. Rach-
manof’s books, when his astonished agent endea¬
voured to amuse him with some falsehoods. The
injustice of the deed was evident; yet no pro¬
per arrangement was agreed to, and immediately a
law process was commenced. The business was kept
in the courts of justice above five years, and was
then by the advice of those who were well-disposed
to the American, referred to the decision of an
arbitration. But it might still have been prolonged
other five or fifteen years, had not the present
governor-general of Moscow taken an interest in
the affair, hurried on the steps to be taken, and
done every thing in his power that justice might
triumph. To the honour of his name be this told.
But although the injured gentleman had ultimately
been successful in obtaining a just decision, when I
left Moscow about a year ago, his friends entertained
great doubts whether he would recover any of the
CORRUPT ADMINISTRATION IN RUSSIA. 93
cash, as the Russian merchant was taking every
means to deprive him of the probability of this ;
and it was feared that he would make a fraudulent
bankruptcy, and thus add roguery to deceit. If
this happen, Mr.-will not only have lost
a great part of his capital by this transaction, but
also five of the best years of his life, which have
been passed in anxiety and trouble, and ended in
disappointment.
In my opinion, the state of civil administration
in Russia cannot be represented in too black
colours. In so far as regards Siberia, the corrup¬
tion, the venality, and the oppression of the legis¬
lature were lately most lamentable and incredible.
A sufficient confirmation of its woeful condition is
afforded by the fact, that when the late governor
of that part of the Russian territory, General
Speranskii, left his situation, an immense number *
of individuals who were in the tribunals, and who
had command over their fellow-creatures, were
thrown into prison, because that well-meaning
man, a real friend to his country, had exposed
their nefarious practices and conduct. I should
suppose from what I have heard, that the gentle¬
man spoken of will never return again to Siberia,
although I understand he has occupied himself
much in preparing plans for the general meliora¬
tion of that extensive district, which have met
with the approbation of the Emperor Alexander,
* I have been told between 500 and 600.
9t CORRUPT ADMINISTRATION IN RUSSIA.
who, as a testimonial of his regard, lias appointed
him a senator. When we see distinctions so judi¬
ciously bestowed, we are led to acknowledge the
anxiety and assiduity of his imperial majesty, for
the welfare even of his remotest subjects.
General Speranskii acted with great propriety in
making his retreat before it was attempted to intro¬
duce his innovations and improvements, as probably
he might have forfeited his life to his zeal in the
cause of his country. Perhaps the recollection of
the fate of Dr. Bootatz, hastened his departure.
That gentleman, after having lingered away some
of the most valuable years of his life in a Polish
prison, on a charge of misdemeanor, was liberated
about four years ago, and returned to Petersburgh,
and was soon afterwards made medical inspector of
the governments of Siberia. Having carried his
family to Yekaterinburg, at the foot of the Ural
mountains, and settled them in that town, he set
out on a journey with a view to examine the hos¬
pitals, apothecary-shops, &c. In proceeding from
place to place he discovered and exposed the
grossest imposition and plunder, which conduct
created him many enemies. At Irkutsk death was
the reward for his diligence and his probity. It
is said that he was there poisoned, and thus fell the
prey of wanton barbarity.
The reader who may wish to be further satisfied
as to the generally corrupt state of all the depart¬
ments of the administration in Siberia, may peruse
captain cochranf/s evidence. 9->
the interesting narrative of a pedestrian journey
into that country, lately published by Captain
Cochrane. In it are contained innumerable and
irrefragable proofs of the accuracy of the assertions
made in the volume to which I have had, and still
shall have, so often occasion to make a reference.
With all his complacency and partiality towards
the Russians, from the time the pedestrian leaves
Moscow till his return to that capital, including a
course of many thousand miles in Siberia, he
candidly and honestly exposes the frightful state
of the general administration and of the tribunals
of justice, as they are profanely called; and illus¬
trates the universal oppression of the miserable inha¬
bitants, even in the remote peninsula of Kamstchatka.
They are obliged to succumb in silence to the yoke
of, comparatively speaking, a few mean venal go¬
vernors, corrupt judges, haughty commandants,
and overbearing police-officers; and, besides, to
bear the impudence, insolence, and oppression of
all their shabby underlings, who are generally a
race reckless of human feelings and of human
misery. But, according to their general proverb,
“ God is high, and the Emperor is far away.”
The first part of this saying is but too characteris¬
tic of its abettors, and under cover of the latter,
as behind a shield, they have long found conceal¬
ment and protection from the punishment which
their sovereign might have awarded them. We
must, therefore, rejoice, for the sake of our fellow-
96 CORRUPT ADMINISTRATION IN RUSSIA.
mortals, that at length General Speranskii has
broken down this barrier between the monarch
and the people, and that the Emperor is no
longer “ far away,” at least from the knowledge
of the delinquencies of the ruling few, and of the
sufferings of his remote subjects.
Beyond all question, the time is not distant
when his imperial majesty will be equally alive to
the correction of abuses, and to general civil
improvement, more near his residence. However
much Alexander may be displeased at my un¬
welcome exposition of facts notorious in Russia,
yet He must be conscious of the truth of the
pictures I have drawn. His actions may yet aver
this, while his words and his ukases proclaim other
sentiments, in order to tranquillise his irritated
and all-powerful nobility. Upon what a prickly
and painful bed must despots repose, when even
the mild, the good, and the generous Alexander
has not only to study the humour of his courtiers,
his ministers, his generals, his admirals, and even
of his nobles, but, besides, (as I have been as¬
sured,) in order to please them, to act contrary to
the dictates of his own heart. Who would envy
the life of such a sovereign, with all its eastern
gorgeous splendour, and all its apparently gigantic
powers ? The shades of Peter III. and of Paul
must sometimes disturb the midnight slumber of
all their successors to the throne of Russia.
A corporate body of tradesmen had engaged to
INSTANCES OF INJUSTICE.
97
pay a fixed annual sum to the city of St. Peters-
burgh. Nearly ten years ago, in consequence of
a number of the members having failed, or being
in poverty, the sum total to be paid became a
heavy burthen upon those who were in better cir¬
cumstances. One of them who was unable to ad¬
vance the assigned portion of the general sum,
although willing to make an effort to give the same
as in former years, was thrown into confinement,
and placed amid the basest classes of society. A
friend of his immediately used all possible means,
except money, in order to obtain the release of this
tradesman, but without success. Whilst he was
standing in one of the tribunals in great agitation,
a person w r ho held an inferior office gently ap¬
proached him and said, “ Sir, I perceive that you
do not know how to extricate your friend from his
disagreeable situation. If you will give me a
twenty-five rouble note for the purpose of being
properly distributed, I shall get him set at liberty
to-morrow morning.” The money was instantly
deposited, and on his return the following day, he
was informed that twenty-five roubles was too
little, and that other twenty-five must be given.
This second request was likewise acceded to, and
on the third day, the tradesman was released,
upon condition of paying his individual portion of
the general sum due by the corporate body.
When about to walk off, however, the same ob¬
liging agent politely came up and made a new
VOL. 1. II
98
INSTANCES OF INJUSTICE.
demand upon the generosity of the person who
had already given fifty roubles. He told him a
long story about the distribution of the money,
and begged to have a five rouble note for himself.
This was also granted, though no doubt, he had
made sure of a liberal proportion of the former
spoil.
It is very common in Russia to make written
agreements, or contracts, as they are called, even
on trivial occasions, and almost always in affairs of
importance ; because, however difficult it may be
to obtain justice or any kind of decision, even with
a contract, without it you can do nothing in a
court of law. No case is admitted for prose¬
cution unless there exist some written document
between the parties at issue, except in the slovesnii
sitd, or oral court, for trifling cases.
A countryman of mine was about to enter the
service of Admiral-, a liberal-minded
man, distinguished for the amenity of his manners
and his generosity, and who has different estates in
the south of the Russian empire. The terms of
agreement having been settled, the Scotchman
asked this gentleman if there should not be a con¬
tract. The admiral replied in these words, which,
remarkable as they may appear, alas, are but too
true: “ As far as respects me, I have no desire to
have any contract with you; because, should you,
at any time, wish to leave me, the sooner you did
so the better, as 1 should not like to retain any
INSTANCES OF INJUSTICE.
99
person in my service by restraint; and should 1
wish to get rid of you, I shall find no difficulty in
obtaining my purpose; besides, you have been
long enough in Russia to know that, in case any
dispute arise between us, a contract would be of
no real use to me, and to you of no advantage : it
might be the cause of your expending money in
the courts of justice, but not of obtaining a favour¬
able decision.”
This unintended critique is perhaps too severe ;
for, although there be too much truth in what the
admiral said, yet written contracts are of great
utility in Russia. They form invariable testimo¬
nials of the ostensible intention of the contracting
parties ; and they are the more necessary, because
the Russians are much given to prevarication. In¬
deed, so little faith have they in mere verbal agree¬
ments, that men of business, as stewards, See. com¬
mit the merest trifles to the pages of their daily
records. We need not be surprised, then, at the
Russian proverb: —
“ Shto yest pisannoperom
Nelza mbit toporom.”
“ What is written with a pen
Cannot be erased by an axe.’’
On leaving Russia, in IS23, I determined to
take a Russian servant with me, who had lived for
some time in the family, for the sake of my chil¬
dren. She is a free woman, her brother having
paid 700 roubles for her manumission, and ranked
H
100
INSTANCES OF INJUSTICE.
among the burgesses. From the magistrates of
Moscow she received an annual passport, by virtue
of which she could serve any where she chose
in the Russian empire. Before she could quit
her native country it was necessary to have a
special passport for that purpose. I applied to
the magistracy, after her name had been three
times advertised in the newspapers, along with
those of my family, as is absolutely necessary be¬
fore leaving Russia. The under-agents said the
passport could be obtained in a day or two, pro¬
vided I would give them thirty, while the real ex¬
pense did not exceed five or six roubles. On de¬
manding why thirty roubles were necessary, they
replied, that they had to apply to different depart¬
ments of the magistracy, the clerks of which require
to be rewarded by small sums. I refused com¬
pliance, and employed the whole of two forenoons
in going through the almost innumerable ceremo¬
nies myself. No less than five certificates were
obtained from as many departments of the magis¬
tracy, each of them signed by twenty, twenty-five,
or thirty names, the object of which was to show
that no obstacle, as debt, prevented the servant’s
departure. This done, at length the passport was
got; but still it cost me above fifteen roubles, for
stamped paper, small bribes, &c. The very seal was
not impressed upon the passport till paid for. The
sums were openly asked, and there seemed no end
to imposition, or, ns the Russians say, to presents.
INSTANCES OF INJUSTICE.
101
In taking a female from Russia, whether free or
bond, no deposit is necessary j but, before a male
bondsman can leave his country, security must be
made, by the deposit of a sum, whose interest will
equal his obrok, or annual contribution.
Medical men, though they had been professors
in another country, are not entitled to practise in
Russia until they have undergone an examination
in one of the universities or academies, and have
receive a special licence. Of course I was neces¬
sitated to submit to the usual routine. Two Britons
had been lately rejected ; and I was advised by some
to bribe the professors liberally, as the surest mode
of exhibiting skill in my profession. As I did not
follow the counsel given me, I am unable to speak
from personal experience; but, I have been assured
by a number of individuals, that some of the
Russian professors receive bribes from the candi¬
dates ; and indeed a young man, whose veracity I
had no cause to doubt, said plainly, that he had
given douceurs to some gentlemen—if they deserve
the appellation — who are attached to one of the
most celebrated institutions in Russia. It has even
been stated, that some of the foreign professors have
been equally open to corruption. If this be the
case, I am sure there are others who are totally in¬
capable of such conduct, and whose feelings would
be severely hurt at the very idea of such an imput¬
ation.
CHAR III
PUNISHMENT OF MALEFACTORS AT KILF. -DIVISIONS OF
KIEF. — THE FORTRESS. —- THE ARSENAL. — THE INSTITU¬
TION FOR ORPHANS.-THE FETCHERSKOI MONASTERY.-THE
MILITARY HOSPITAL.-THE THEATRE-OLD KIEF.-THE
PODOLE. - CONCLUSION. - DEPARTURE. - VASS1LKOF. -
IMPOSITION OF POST-MASTERS AND MODES OF REDRESS.-
ZVENIGORODKA. - ROGUERY OF THE JEWS. - DISTILLE¬
RIES.— SINGULAR CUSTOM. UMAN.— SOPIIIEVKA. COUN¬
TESS POTOTSKH.—THE POET TREMBESKI I.— KHOLOVINSK A.-
ARRIVAL AT BOGHOPOLE.— RUSSIAN STEWARDS. -RECRUIT
OF THE ARMY. — COUNT OZERQVSKH. — BOGHOPOLE. — KON¬
STANTINOVNA.-CAVALRY. — VOZNESENSK.- NEW SYSTEM
OF MILITARY COLONIZATION.— RAPIDITY OF TRAVELLING.-
ODESSA.
On the morning after our arrival at Kief we were
informed that some malefactors were to receive the
knoot in a square opposite the inn, where an im-
PUNISHMENT OF MALEFACTORS.
103
inense crowd was assembled. A circle bad been
formed by the military, within which Mr. Durof,
the police-master, remarking we were strangers,
kindly invited us to enter. After the prisoners
heard their sentences read, the punishment was in¬
dicted. A man received twenty, and a woman
dfteen strokes of the dreadful knoot. Mr. Durof
related to us that the man was a notorious character.
He had been a soldier, had seen foreign coun¬
tries, spoke a little German, deceived every body,
and at length robbed a monastery. His physiog¬
nomy bespoke coolness and determination, and the
blackest passions of the heart. On his trial lie
boldly told the judges, that the money he took was
lying idle ; and, consequently, was of no use either
to the monks or to the world, and that by taking it
and distributing one half to the poor, while lie kept
the other to himself, he had really been serving
both God and man. The deliberate strokes of the
knoot disturbed his stoic indifference, and drew
forth his cries. When loosened from the rack, a
shtoph (a square gallon bottle) was presented to
him. He looked around the circle, saluted the
multitude, put it to his mouth, and then, manifest¬
ing the utmost indignation, dashed it on the ground,
while he sneeringly said, “ I thought it was spirits,
but it is only water.” He was next branded on the
forehead and cheeks. While the blood was flow¬
ing, the wounds were rubbed with gun-powder, so
h 4
101< DIVISIONS OF KIEF.
as to render the circular marks, nearly as large as a
halfpenny, quite indelible, except by excision.
The woman screamed and groaned terribly
during the infliction of the strokes. When loosened,
she seemed to faint, and was laid upon the earth,
and then covered with a shoob, or sheep-skin pelisse.
Two boys and a woman next received the pleti,
or whips. By turns, their bodies being partly unco¬
vered, they were laid flat down with their faces
on the ground, and were held firmly by a number
of assistants. The executioner standing on the
right side, inflicted a certain number of strokes,
and then as many while on the left. All the suf¬
ferers cried most bitterly ; and, indeed, this mode
of punishment, although apparently puerile, is ex¬
tremely severe, It leads to the most indecent ex¬
posure, and could only be tolerated in a demi-civi-
lized or barbarous country.
All the prisoners were re-conducted to prison,
and we returned to our lodgings.
Kief, properly speaking, is composed of three
grand divisions, viz. the fortress of Petchersk with
its suburb, ancient Kief, and the Podole, each of
which has its peculiar fortification, while the whole
are included by an earthen rampart, and have a
garrison, which is under the orders of the com¬
mandant of the town. The fortress occupies a
beautiful and commanding hill on the west bank of
the Dneper, which rolls its noble stream about 300
feet below the spectator. It is surrounded by
THE FORTRESS-THE ARSENAL.
105
ditches and high earthen ramparts, with numerous
bastions, all of which we found in excellent repair.
To the stranger who is not in search of antiquities,
it forms the most interesting division of Ivie'f. It
is one of the numerous memorials, which every¬
where present themselves, of Peter the Great.
This sovereign was present at the religious ce¬
remonies which preceded the foundation of the
castle, in 1706, which he afterwards laid with the
usual formalities.
Of the objects within the boundaries of the for¬
tress, the Arsenal claimed our first attention. It was
founded by Catherine II. and is unquestionably
the finest edifice in Kief. It is built in the form of
a square, of whitish-coloured bricks which were
made in the neighbourhood, and is two immense
stories in height, with fine arched windows. In
the centre of each finjade is a lofty and handsome
gate. A walk round the exterior of this building
is just half a verst. The interior of the under
story presents a fine sight. The ceiling is very
lofty, and the whole width, by two rows of pillars,
is divided into three equal parts, in each of which
are arranged cannons, mortars, howitzers, ammu¬
nition-waggons, pontoon-bridges, horse-harness,
ropes, bellows, &c.; in a word, all kinds of mili¬
tary stores, and all in the best order. The supe¬
rior workmanship of the cannons, the cannon-car¬
riages, and the ammunition-waggons, delighted 11 s.
I 11 the upper story we saw 44,000 stand of arms.
106
THE INSTITUTION EOK ORPHANS.
some of which were of moderate, and others of very
inferior quality. The arsenal is capable of contain¬
ing 80,000, or even 100,000, and it is sometimes
filled. In some parts of the second story we also
remarked a number of small cannons on their car¬
riages, which rather surprised us, till we were
shown an inclined plain for their ascent.
We next visited the Institution for the Male
Orphans of Soldiers , which adjoins the arsenal.
The number of boys in it amounted to 1800, and
almost all of them we saw had a squalid sickly ap¬
pearance. Diseases of the eyes and of the scalp
were very prevalent among them; besides, no
less than 302 of their number were patients in the
military hospital: strong proofs of some great defect
in the management of the charity, which excited our
enquiries. Damp beds, or rather wooden platforms
placed against damp walls in a kind of barrack,
wantofproper beds, dirtiness, auda deficiency of pro¬
per food, were the causes assigned by an officer of
high rank for the distressing state of this institution.
The management, only a few weeks ago, had been
given to new hands, and an immediate improvement
of the whole establishment was in contemplation.
The orphans arc here taught reading, writing, arith¬
metic, and geometry, upon theLancasterian system,
which seemed to flourish. They are educated so
as to qualify them for the duties of under-officers,
clerks, &q. in the regular army. General Arak-
tcheefj who had accompanied us to the arsenal, on
THE PETCHERSKOI MONASTERY.
10 ?
entering the garden of the Orphan Institution, was
saluted by a numerous band of musicians, composed
of the oldest pupils, who performed remarkably
well.
Within the precincts of the fortress are also situ¬
ated the commissariat, the commandant’s house,
the barracks of the garrison, numerous military
magazines, a few edifices occupied by military
and civil officers, some churches, and the re¬
nowned monastery of I’etchersk. Among the
churches, the most remarkable is that of Saint
Nicholas, — built upon a hill near the banks of the
Dneper and over the grave of Oskokl, by order
of the princess Olga after the reception of Chris¬
tianity, — and that of the Transfiguration erected
by Saint Vladimir, but in what year, or on what
occasion, is unknown.
The Petcherskoi monastery with the cathedral
of the Assumption, some other churches, a print¬
ing office, the house of the metropolitan of Kief,
and the houses of the monks, are surrounded by a
high stone wall with towers at its corners, like a
fortress. The cathedral was founded by Antonius
and Theodosius in 1073; but, having been frequently-
renewed, it now resembles the cathedral of Moscow.
Its seven golden domes, with those of the other
churches, and that of the belfry, which towers
above the hill to the height of about 300 feet,
and above the Dneper to that of 586, have a
splendid effect, and rivet the attention. The belfry
108
THE 1'ETCHERSKOI MONASTERY.
is reckoned by the Russians a chef cVceuvre of
architecture. Its under story is in rustic, the
second is adorned by thirty-two Doric columns,
the third by sixteen of the Ionic order, and the
fourth by twenty-four pilasters, arranged in
threes, of the Corinthian order. It is the work¬
manship of an Italian architect. To the cathedral
belongs a library, said to be rich in manuscripts,
and especially in Greek ones.
The Petcherskoi monastery has been well de¬
scribed by James, and therefore I shall only supply a
few particulars. After its foundation in the eleventh
century, it was called Petcherskoi, because the
monks at first inhabited two caverns*, which they
formed in the hill on which the monastery has since
been built. Thesecaverns are behind the monastery,
have a deep ravine between them, and stretch toward
the Dneper. They are subterraneous vaulted laby¬
rinths, with different branches, numerous cells and
chapels, in which repose the uncorrupted relicks
of saints, and martyrs, and holy men. One of
them is called the Pestchera Blynaya, the near
cavern, or that of Antonius, after the name of its
first abbot, who died in 1073; the other the Pest¬
chera Ddlnaya, the distant cavern, or that of
Theodosius, from the name of the second abbot, t
* Pestchera, in Russian, means a cavern; hence the origin
of the name.
+ A small work by Herbinius entitled u Rcligioscc Kyovicnsc
Cryplcc (Jena 1 , 1675,) contains views of these caverns.
THE PETCIlEliSKOI MONASTERY.
109
We were accompanied by a monk in visiting the
catacombs of Kief. The devotees there spend
hours, and days, and weeks. The bodies, or rather
the forms of bodies, are like Egyptian mummies,
and are arranged in the sides of the caverns,
in the chapels, and in small cells. If we may
judge by the numerous specimens which we saw
here, almost all the saints are persons of low
stature. Their names are indicated by labels over
the cells, or attached to the tombs. Their number
amounts to above 150. The insertion of their ap¬
pellations and distinctions would be equally useless
to the writer, and to the reader. The latter, how¬
ever, should he ever visit these far-famed caverns,
may be desirous of having a general acquaintance
with his miscellaneous society ; and under this im¬
pression I have drawn up the following concise
list. In the two caverns are found the relicks
of archbishops, bishops, archimandrites, hegumins,
monks, anchorites, deacons, miracle-workers, saints,
martyrs, princes, princesses, physicians, historians,
stewards, bigots, soldiers, bakers (of bread for con¬
secration), wafer-makers, image-painters, last-ob¬
servers, and grave-diggers; besides those of the
obedient, the silent, the patient, the penitent, the
unlettered, the intelligent, the penetrating, the
venerable, the disinterested, the active, and the la¬
borious, and of twelve masons who built the cathe¬
dral. Here are also shown a great number of
110
THE PETCIIERSKOI MONASTERY.
odoriferous heads, anil one of the children which
was murdered bv Herod’s orders, and brought from
Jerusalem. In the cathedral is likewise preserved
the head of’the Great Duke Vladimir.
We were all contented with having examined
the cavern of Antonius, and had not the least
desire to make onr respects to that of Theodosius.
Having enjoyed a fine view from a balcony, at the
lower extremity of the labyrinth, recompensed the
monk and the people in attendance, and left our
charity in the chapels, we made our way back
through a long covered wooden gallery, in which
were assembled the poor, and the lame, and the
blind, seeking alms.
The suburb of the fortress, as it is called, is of
considerable extent. It contains the “ administra¬
tion of the government an edifice of two stories
in height, over a high basement, and adorned by
a flight of steps, six Doric columns, and a pedi¬
ment with the imperial arms, the same as may be
remarked all over the empire in the crown-build¬
ings. Here was also the imperial palace, a wooden
structure, which was burned in 1809; its foundation
and wings alone remain. On one side of these we
found a delightful boulevard; on the other the im¬
perial gardens, high and low, which are joined
together by terraces and flights of stairs. They
form the fashionable promenade in the evening,
and few spots can be more charming.
THE MILITARY HOSPITAL.-THE THEATRE. Ill
We made a visit to the military hospital, at some
distance from the monastery. It consists of four
wooden edifices, one story high, in which every
thing is well arranged. The number of sick in all
amounted to 735.
In the traveller’s rambles in Kief, the shell of a
large wooden theatre on the left of the road which
leads to the Podolc, catches his eye from its
gloomy desolate appearance, and surprises by the
want of foresight in those who planned and super¬
intended its erection. It stands upon an elevated
hill, extremely difficult of access; and yet this
forcible objection was not perceived till the edifice
was roofed. The work was immediately inter¬
rupted, and the whole property is to be sold. In
the meantime a small building, which stands at the
juncture of the roads from Old Kief and Podolc,
serves as a temporary theatre, in which a Russian
troop of actors perform during winter.
The prison, or ostrog, a neat small edifice, and
the “ House for Invalids of Prince Proserovskii,”
of considerable size, are both situated near the
barrier of the road which leads to the south, and
deserve a visit.
Old Kief is situated upon another hill between
the division of Petchersk and the Podole, but more
to the east. Its fortifications are now in ruins. It
can scarcely be said to have one regular street;
and but for the churches and the monasteries, of
which I have spoken at length in a dissertation
112
OLD KIEF.
THE PODOLE.
upon the architecture of Russia *, its boasted
splendour is completely faded.
From the Petcherskoi quarter to the Podole the
road leads down the side of a very steep hill. It
has been much improved of late years, but still it
explains why we see all the droshkis for hire at
Kief, with a couple of horses, as they are continu¬
ally ascending and descending this mountain. On
the right, in a pretty and romantic spot, is elevated
the Krestchdtik , a lofty column surmounted by a
cross, of which James has given a plate. It was
built over a fountain, where the children of the
Great Duke Vladimir Sviatoslaf were baptised.
On the left, we were struck by the singular situ¬
ation of numerous small houses along the brow of
the hill overlooking the Podole. The difficulty of
access, and the want of water, we should have
thought would have deterred any individual from
choosing such a spot for the site of his dwelling.
The streets in the Podole are not very regular, and
few of the houses are good ; the wooden bank of
the river is falling into decay, and the whole has a
mean appearance. It is partly inundated during
the spring-flood of the Dneper. In the river a
great many flat-bottomed barges were lying, and
* Character of the Russians, Appendix. In addition to
what is said of the tithe-church, I may remark, that Karamzin,
in the second edition of his history, has added notes to the
former eight volumes, among which is given a representation
of the inscription upon the slabs alluded to, but which, un¬
luckily, is not intelligible.
CONCLUSION.
113
the quay, whiie it afforded some pleasing views,
also exhibited the only scene of great activity and
industry, which had met our notice in Kief. The
Poddle is crowded with churches and monasteries,
and also contains the academy, the spiritual school,
and the post-office.
Of Kief as a whole, it may be said, that the
streets are excessively irregular, and for the most
part unpaved, or boarded over. A few of them
have bad wooden trottoirs. In it are reckoned
thirty-two churches, besides those at the convents :
now, as there are nearly a dozen monasteries and
nunneries, at each of which are two, three, or more
churches, we, probably, under-rate the sum total of
places of worship at eighty. It is supposed to
contain about 1-000 houses, exclusive of various
manufactories. Its internal appearance ill cor¬
responds with the ideas of magnificence, which its
approach had inspired. In 1813 and 1823, its
population is stated by Vsevolojskii at 30,000 ; but
my enquiries lead me to doubt whether it be not
overrated at 20,000 souls, among which are a great
many Jews, a few Poles, and some Little Russians;
but the mass of its inhabitants are real Russians.
On the 21st April we left Kief. The country
during the first station to Veta, and half of the
second to Vassilkof is hilly, bleak, and unpleasant,
and frequently covered with underwood: few corn¬
fields are to be seen, and the soil is clayey and
sandy. In many places the road runs through deep
VOL. i.
i
114
VASS1LKOF.
sand, but an excellent and rich loam assumes a
black appearance near Vassllkofj a small town,
which lies upon the rivulet Stujna, thirty-five versts
from Kief, part of which is elevated and pictur¬
esque. Before the union of the Polish provinces
to Russia, it was a frontier town; it is now the
chief town of a district to which it lends its name.
In speaking of towns, however, in most parts of
Russia, it is necessary to caution the reader not to
be deceived, and to expect more than really exists,
as many of them are but villages. Vassflkof is an
instance in point; for, though a district town, its
population does not exceed 2500 souls, and I have
been informed that it scarcely contains a single
merchant, unless we call petty dealers by that
name.
We met with an unlooked-for detention here.
We had a single podorkjne for six horses, three
tor each equipage, though we always took eight,
and paid for the whole of them. On presenting
our order to the uncouth smotritel, he said there
were no horses. After I had examined the table
and found the number of horses kept at the station,
and the number out according to the book in which
the podorojnes are registered, I threatened to enter
a report in the complaint book ; when he without
apology for his lie, or the least ceremony, wished
to put six horses in each equipage, because the
road was bad. I explained the attempt at impo¬
sition to the party, and asked if they wished to see
ANECDOTE,
115
his character a little more developed. Being an¬
swered in the affirmative, the smotritel was told
that he might put twenty horses in each equipage,
if he liked, but that he would only be paid for
eight; that was for two horses more than our
podorojne ordered. But he answered, if we did
not take six horses for each carriage and pay for
them, he would give six horses, and put them all
in one carriage ; pretending that he was authorised
to do so. I had satisfied myself, that, by the re¬
gulations for the summer season, we were not
necessitated to take more than four horses for each
carriage, and requested they might be given im¬
mediately. On his non-compliance we went to the
Gorodmtchii’s house, and were lucky enough to
find him. at home. Having heard our complaint,
he instantly accompanied us to the post-house. On
the way thither he spoke of the small revenues of
his office there being scarcely any merchants in the
town, stated that he had a large family, and added
that he was in a consumption. I replied, that, no
doubt, he would be better in a larger town, as the
merchants made large annual presents to persons of
his rank; I hoped he would always find enough for
the support of his family ; and said that, as I was
a physician, and had a medicine chest with me,
I should be happy to give him advice and remedies
gratis. I then began to question him seriously as
to the symptoms which he had of consumption,
when he exclaimed, “ Ah! Doctor, you mistake
116
ANECDOTE.
me; my disease is (Tchichotka iv karmane), “ a
consumption in my pocket every where a pre¬
valent epidemic. At the post-house a long
explanation and amusing farce took place; the
Gorodmtchii scolded, and ordered horses to be
given ; the smotritel was bold, and defended his
conduct. Under pretence of thanking the officer
for his trouble, I now shook hands, and left a five
rouble note with him, which had the desired effect.
He sallied out, threatened violently, brandished
his stick, and in a few minutes the horses were
harnessed, and we were in motion. It is true that
the smotritel received nothing—unless he shared in
the bribe — and revenge might have been grati¬
fied, but we were detained two hours, while a much
smaller sum than a five-rouble note, given in time,
would have procured horses. Thus, a traveller,
who complains of a smotritel, to the police-master,
in a large town, or in a country-town, to the
Gorodmtchii , may sometimes get instant redress,
but frequently the remedy is as bad as the disease,
and indeed, often worse. A small bribe will gene¬
rally satisfy the smotritel, and procure horses;
whereas a larger reward is necessary for the police-
master, or the Gorodmtchii, who may have assisted
in settling a dispute.
We travelled all night. The road from Karap-
ishi is hilly, with immense corn-fields on each side;
the soil is a fine black mould. Numerous small
woods, and tall scattered trees, render the scenery
BOGllOSLA VLE.-KORSUN.
117
very pleasing. The three first stations from Kief
to Grebenki cost eight kopeeks per verst for each
horse, the rest to Uman only five. Boghoslavle
is a small mean district town, which has always
belonged to the principality of Kief, and whose
population is chiefly Jewish. It is surrounded by
woods rising in amphitheatre, and cultivated fields.
The river Rossa, which has numerous masses of
granite lying in its course, flows through it, and
its banks present those romantic features which are
common in Britain, but are rarely to be seen in
Russia, except in the Caucasus and Siberia. Part
of this town belongs to the crown, and Countess
Branitskii has large possessions in its vicinity.
From Moskalenki the scenery is varied, and very
fine to Korsun, a small village in a beautiful situ¬
ation, and surrounded by a delightful country.
Between Korsun and Olshana, the soil is extremely
fertile: pastures, corn-fields, woods and small
lakes, with a few scattered villages, were seen in
succession. The road is broad and excellent, and
we travelled at full gallop ; the drivers of the two
carriages racing against one another. In one of
these races we met a herd of oxen, and were in
the midst of them before the coachmen had power
to check the speed of their horses. One of these
animals fell, but the horse with which it had
come in contact leapt over it, and we continued
our journey, luckily without injury to any of them
or to ourselves. The sight of six oxen, and three
x 3
118
ZVENIGOUODKA.
persons employed here for each plough, struck us
forcibly. Between this and the following station,
innumerable trees, which had lost their tops, and
others which were withering, caught the eye, and
appeared to have suffered from lightning. Olshana
is a village of considerable size, but with little to
attract attention, except a line of about twenty
neat white-washed cottages, separated from eacli
other, and each with its garden. The lively ap¬
pearance of this part of the village is greatly di¬
minished by the vicinity of two old gloomy wooden
churches, such as are very common in the Ukraine.
The style of their architecture is exactly the same
as that which prevails in Russia Proper.
Wo had now got fairly into that part of the
Russian empire which is chiefly peopled by Jews
and Poles. Both speak the Russian inharmoni-
ously and incorrectly ; and the Jews have a jargon
composed of Polish, Russian, and German, in
which they address foreigners of all nations.
A rapid drive through a charming country
brought us to Zvenigorodka, a small shabby dis¬
trict town in the government of Kief which lies
upon the rivulet Gniloi-Tikitch. We found the
Jews had made a contract for the post-horses here,
and were determined to maintain their character for
roguery. In escaping from the Russian smotrilels,
most of whom are scoundrels, but manageable by
bribery, we found ourselves in the hands of im¬
postors, who, being proprietors, were exorbitant in
ROGUERY OE THE JEWS.
119
their demands, and resolute in their exaction.
Having dined in this town, and still finding that
they made false pretences and evasions, and would
neither give us post-horses, nor compound upon
reasonable terms to give any horses, we again had
recourse to the Gorodnitchii. He was kind enough
to send a soldier with orders, accompanied by a
menace, to these contractors. The mandate was
obeyed, the post-horses were harnessed, and we
again pursued our route.
Almost all the Jews we had seen, in the course
of our journey, except at Kief, exhibited a picture
of great degradation, wretchedness, and imposi¬
tion. Baron Sacken, Commander-in-chief of the
1st Russian army, in a letter to Prince D. V.
Galitsin, Governor-general of Moscow, dated
Mohilef 12th April 1822, after noticing the na¬
ture of the country in White Russia, and the
encouragement it holds out to agricultural im¬
provement, with equal freedom and truth, remarks
that the peasants, with their whole families, almost
continually beg alms upon the road; and that all
occupation consists in the distillation of spirits,
which is in the hands of the Jews ; “in the hands
of a people, who, to the disgrace of humanity, live
in idleness, in roguery, and in dirt.”* This de¬
scription of the Jews may be well applied to their
* Journal of the Agricultural Society of Moscow. No. IV. 1822,
i 4
120
DISTILLERIES.
brethren whom we saw in the governments of' Kief,
Khersbn, Yekaterinoslaf, and the Krimea.
Since the crown has monopolized the sale of
spirits throughout the European dominions of the
empire, the Jews as well as all others, are obliged
to furnish from each distillery a certain quantity
of a given strength, at a fixed price, to the im¬
mense public depots or magazines. Therefore the
more spirits sold the greater is the advantage to
the government. But the immoral and wretched
policy of raising a revenue from the vice, and at
the expence of the health and lives of the peasants,
who are the chief consumers of the spirits,—their
nechiTvodtki ,—can never be sufficiently condemned.
The government may pretend that by monopolis¬
ing the sale of spir its, it is intended to furnish the
boors with a good article at the same price as they
had formerly paid for an adulterated and deleter¬
ious fluid, produced by individual distillers. So far
the intention is excellent; but it is a notorious fact
that no improvement of the spirits has resulted
from the measure. Indeed, as Capt. Cochrane has
justly remarked, in his narrative of an extensive
journey in Russia and Siberia, by farming the dis¬
tilleries, a system of plunder is practically encou¬
raged ; while the losers in the long run are the
poor peasantry, “ who receive a trash of spirit, far
below the proofj” it being “ doubly and trebly
watered.” The same author well explains the de¬
grading system of fraud which is carried on lie-
COLONIZATION OF THE JEWS. 121
tween the vice-governors of the provinces, the
farmer-generals and their clerks, all of whose
“ immense subductions” are paid by new additions
of water to the spirit which is valued to the de¬
ceived peasants as genuine .
As the Jews do not possess land, some of them
purchase the produce of the soil, particularly
wheat, from the proprietors, and transport it to
Odessa and other ports of the Black Sea. But
wherever we met them, with a few exceptions, they
presented the appearance already described, and
bore the same character.
Indeed, during our visit to the south of Rus¬
sia, every where we heard heavy complaints with
respect to their imposition, and their monopoly
of every profitable employment. From various
rumours it was evident that some great revo¬
lution in their fate was approaching. Different
individuals spoke of the “ colonisation of the
Jews,” but none of them seemed to know what
was meant by these words, and all were anxious to
receive information. The mystery is at length
unveiled, in an imperial and irresistible mandate.
By an ukdz of the emperor of Russia, dated War¬
saw, August 29. 1824, all Jews who are not physi¬
cians or established merchants, are ordered, by the
year 1825, to renounce the petty commerce they
have hitherto carried on, trades, &c., and to re¬
turn to the occupation of their ancestors, that is
122
TI-IE JEWS. - SINGULAR CUSTOM.
to say, to till the ground. For this purpose, the
government will assign them lands in the tem¬
perate climate of European Russia, provide them
with every thing necessary to commence their
agricultural pursuits, and found them new settle¬
ments; besides it will exempt them from taxes for
some years, if they conform to the supreme will
of his Majesty. On the other hand, they have no
alternative, except to quit Russia and Poland. As
was naturally to be expected, the publication of
this ukaz has caused great consternation among
the numerous Jewish population.
Not to speak of the natives of the country, Rus¬
sians, Little Russians, and Poles, three great
classes of colonies will, therefore, be established in
the southern provinces of the Russian empire, viz.
German colonies, Jewish colonies, and Military
colonies, of which we shall speak hereafter. It
seems natural to expect some strange result, before a
long period revolve, from this heterogeneous assem¬
blage. The crown in one point, however, appears
to consult the true interests of the state, in endea¬
vouring to extend and improve the cultivation of
her most fertile possessions.
In travelling in the south of Russia, the atten¬
tion is attracted by a singular practice which pre¬
vails among the Jews. Attached to high poles,
and extending in various directions across the
streets of the towns and villages which they in-
UMAN.
123
habit, are seen many cords, connecting as it
were the houses with each other. “ As long,’’
said our Jewish host, “ as these strings are seen
stretched between the different poles, it is permit¬
ted to have free intercourse with our neighbours ;
but when they are taken down, on the sabbath for
instance, a Jew is forbidden, in case he quits his
own house, to carry any thing loose about his per¬
son ; in his pocket must be found neither snuff¬
box nor handkerchief.”*
The authority for this strange custom, is said to
be derived from the Talmud.
We travelled in the night through fine and fer¬
tile districts, which, however, were neither enli¬
vened by country-seats nor by large or flourishing
villages. We passed through Yekaterinopole, a
smalltown upon the banks of the Gnilaya, and at
8 o’clock in the morning of the 23d of April we
reached Uman, by a level and most excellent
road. All our acquaintances at Kief spoke of So-
phievka, adjoining to Uman, as one of the objects
most worthy of a visit, and of the military colonies
at Voznesensk, as very interesting for the stranger’s
examination. We therefore followed the route
which led to these places.
Uman, or Human as it is often written, in former
times, was a place of considerable importance
during the almost continual wars between the Tar-
* Macmichacl’s Journey, &c. p. 4G7.
124 -
6 m AN.
tars of the Krimea, the Poles, and the Russians,
as well as on account of its vicinity to the Zaporo-
gian Kozaks. In the year 1655, the khan, Maho¬
med, advanced with a chosen army and joined
Pototskii, the Polish general, and their combined
forces besieged Uman, which was defended by
three ramparts and 30,000 men. The Poles re¬
garded this town as the bulwark of the Kozaks, and
desired its fall, and the Tartars would gladly have
rased it to the ground, because it was a great im¬
pediment to their incursions into Poland. The
attack was terrible, and the first rampart was car¬
ried j but the besieged having discovered their
errors in the preceding manoeuvres, took fresh
courage and new measures, and the Tartars were,
repulsed in the following assaults.
Uman received its appellation from the river
upon which it lies. It now forms a district town
in the government of Kief, and, by our route, is
302 versts distant from the town of Kief. It for¬
merly belonged to the late Count Pototskii, a Polish
nobleman, well known for his encouragement of
literature and science. It is a paltry and miser¬
able town ; and, though it contains a number of
churches, most of them are very indifferent, and
all in want of repair. As an officer remarked, the
inhabitants do not build good houses here, more
than in many other towns of the empire; “ be¬
cause,” said he, “ we get possession of all the best
by being quartered in them.” There is not a single
UMAN.
125
edifice worth notice in Uman, and tlie dwelling of
the late Count Pototskii is small and of a very plain
appearance; indeed it is more like a cottage than a
palace. The population of Uman has been reckoned
at from 300 to 500 souls, chiefly Jews, some Poles,
and a few Russians. Pototskii’s gymnasium claims
attention. It was erected by the late Count for
the children of reduced Polish nobles. A hundred
are fed, clothed, and educated by the interest of
funds left on purpose, and 300 receive their educa¬
tion gratis. A number of regiments are stationed
in and near Uman ; and a military Lancasterian
school is instituted for the education of the soldier’s
children. A small Exercise-house for the military
is likewise found here. The prisons were extremely
dirty, ill-regulated, and in great want of ventil¬
ation ; they were more like an abode for dogs than
human beings.
Uman was crowded with people on our arrival,
and we learned that there was a great fair. We
took up our lodgings at an inn kept by a Jew, and,
to prevent ourselves being imposed upon, fixed the
price for the day. Prince Serge Volchonskii, who
was stationed here with his regiment, and to whom
we had sent the letters received at Kief, called
upon us, invited us to dinner, and walked with us
to shew the town. He gave us an excellent dinner,
in a neat white-washed cottage, and entertained us
much by his intelligent conversation. He spoke
with enthusiasm of the climate and country of the
126
SOPHIKVKA.
south of the Russian empire, in comparison of the
neighbourhood of Petersburgh, where he had passed
much of his life, and where almost all his relations
reside. After treating us with the greatest hospi¬
tality and attention, he furnished us with letters
for Count and Countess de Witt, at Voznesensk,
and also for Colonel Terpel&vskii, at Konstanti-
novka, and assisted us in making a contract with
the Jews to carry us to B6ghop61e, with twelve
horses, at the rate of no less than twelve kopeeks
per verst for each horse.
We made a visit to Sophievka, the chief object
of attention at Uman. This place may be said to
have been formed by Count Pototskii, who was ex¬
tremely rich. It is reported that he had 80,000
peasants, besides money and moveable property.
At his death a number of years ago he left an im¬
mense fortune. The Countess was one of those
romantic characters, whose beauty, charms, and
coquetry, gained many admirers, and led to a great
variety in life. It is related, that among the women
who had resorted to the court of Catherine was a
Grecian lady, already famous, Madame de Witt,
who was beloved by Prince Potyemkin, and
seemed likely to snatch him away from the crowd
of beauties who were contending for his favours.
From his partiality for her, the prince gave the go¬
vernment of Kherson to her husband, Colonel de
Witt. This did not prevent Madame de Witt be¬
ing guilty of some infidelities to the amorous prince.
COUNTESS POTOTSKII.
127
Under pretence of making a visit to her mother,
who was a poor trades-woman at the seraglio, she
went to Constantinople with the Countess de Mnis-
tchek, and there Choiseul Gouffier gave her lodg¬
ings in the Hotel de France. After the death of
Potyemkin, Madame de Witt, for a while, followed
the fortune of Count Felix Pototskii; but, at the
solicitation of his lady the Countess, the Empress
caused her to be shut up in a convent.*
From the above relation, it appears pretty clear,
that Colonel de Witt was rewarded by Prince Pot¬
yemkin for his wife’s infidelity ; or, it might be
said with greater propriety, —as has often hap¬
pened in Russia,—he tacitly connived at her asso¬
ciation with the prince, and reaped the wages of
her iniquity. Hence we can easily conceive the
truth, or at least the probability, of the report,
that Count Pototskii absolutely bought Madame
de Witt from her husband, and gave an immense
sum for his purchase. This lady however, in losing
one husband, secured another ; for, though it is
reported that Count Pototskii enjoyed her favours,
previous to marriage, and that she bore him chil¬
dren, yet he acted most honourably in making her
his Countess, and in procuring an imperial order
by which their children were legitimatised.
The following curious anecdote is well known.
Wheti Ismail had been besieged by the Russians
* Life of Catherine II. vol. iii. p. 156.
128
COUNTESS rOTOTSKII,
for seven months, Potyemkin began to grow
impatient, though living in the camp, in the
midst of luxury, and surrounded by a crowd of
courtiers and women, who employed every effort,
to amuse him. Madame de Witt, one of these fe¬
males, pretending to read the decrees of fate in a
pack of cards, presaged that he would take the
town at the end of three weeks. Prince Potyemkin
smiling, answered, that he had a method of divin¬
ation far more infallible, and that instant sent his
orders to Sitvarof to take Ismail within three days.
Tiie brave, but barbarous hero, obeyed his or¬
ders to the letter, and, after a dreadful slaughter,
succeeded in making himself master of the
town.®
Countess Pototskii was a well known charac¬
ter in Russia, during a long series of years,
and was a fit compeer for Catherine in the
career of voluptuousness and libertinism. Rut
riches frequently blind poets, imparting the lustre
of virtues which were never possessed, and throw¬
ing a veil over failings, vices, and wickedness.
But, however they may impose upon themselves,
the public will not be deceived. The Polish poet,
Trcmbeskii, might sing the charms of Sophievka,
and the virtues of Countess Pototskii, in enchant¬
ing verse, and by his condescension, flattery, and
assiduity, obtain the protection of his heroine ; but,
* Vide Life of Catherine II. vol. iii. pp. 161, 283,
SOPH1KVKA.
12!)
in so doing, he condemned his works to an epheme¬
ral existence.
The Countess passed much of her time at Peters-
burgh and at Sophicvka, but her favourite residence
was at Tultclnn, in the government of Podolia, and
near Bratslaf, where she had a palace and magnifi¬
cent gardens, worthy of a sovereign, and where she
lived with truly royal splendour. In James’s
Journal of his Travels in Germany, &c. a friend of
his has given a very amusing and interesting
account of a visit to Tultclnn, in the year 1806,
after the death of Count Pototskii. He speaks of
the “ air of feudal state” which there reigned, and
seems to think that the “ cumbrous magnificence,
and ostentatious hospitality,” of Moscow, was re¬
placed by elegance and grandeur of a more simple
and more natural kind; but here, as is but too
evident, splendour and meanness were also power¬
fully contrasted.*
The neighbourhood of Uman seemed so desti¬
tute of wood and romantic beauty, that we could
not conceive where Sopliievka was situated. On
our approach to it, a woody dell opened to view,
which we afterwards found to be the gardens,
adorned by broad walks, terraces, summer-houses,
parterres, and statues, with a channel between hills
covered with immense masses of transported rock,
over which, at times, roll foaming cascades.
* Journal of a Tour in Germany, &c. p. 495.
VOL. I. K
130
THE POLISH rOET TREMBESKII.
In an almost unbounded flat country, devoid
of the wildness, the grandeur, and the sublimity
of natural scenery, we need not be surprised that
the Russians, and the Poles, spoke of Sophievka
as an enchanted place, and as a rarity in the land
of the Sclavonians. Though highly pleased, still
we felt great disappointment. Our expectations
had been raised too high by the accounts of our
friends, as well as by the poem published by
Trembeskii, under the name “ Sophievka ,” and
the views it contains. The gardens are not large
enough to have any grandeur about them; the
cascades are only seen when a sluice is opened
and admits the water from a superior dam; and,
however well art may imitate, she can never equal
the delicacy, the harmony, and the majesty, of
natural scenery. Still, it must be allowed, that
Sophievka is a charming spot; and the effect of
the scenery, combined with the music of a military
band and the stillness of a delightful evening, lulled
our feelings into harmonious repose.
Sophievka was a fit residence for a contemplative
poet, such as Trembeskii, who here passed the ma-
turer years of his life in “ the contemplation of
human existence, and its immutability in an after
state, embodying the results of his thoughts in ten*
der and flowing verse — charms in a high degree
peculiar to his fascinating poetry.”* These sub-
* Vide Letters, Literary and Political, on Poland, &c. Ed in-
THE TOLISH POET TREMBESKH. 131
jects form the chief theme of the poem “ So-
phicvka ,” which was translated into French by
the Count de la Garde, splendidly printed at
Rome with the Polish original, and embellished
with imposing views of the gardens; The early
years of Trembeskii were passed in activity, and
adulation of the great, on whom he lavished un¬
merited praises, clothed in the garb of harmonious
and enchanting verse* Placed by fortune beyond
the reach of poverty, and surrounded by scenery
congenial to the passions of his heart, it might
have been expected that he was a happy man;
but, with him, as with many others, splendid
talents, acute feelings, and a morbid constitution,
were associated together. The last stage of his
life was characterised by misanthropy and solitary
retirement. His only companion was a Kozak
boy, with whom he played at chess, or was cheered
by his songs, accompanied with the music of a
torban, a sort of ancient Polish instrument like a
guitar. During summer, in the room where he
lived, swallows and sparrows built their nests un¬
disturbed, and their hospitable host is said to have
known the genealogy of his feathered inmates.
burgh, 1823. This is an interesting work, and, though pub¬
lished anonymously, is well known to be the composition of
Mr. Lach Szyrma, a gentleman who docs honour to the land
which gave him birth, and which he is well qualified to describe,
were he beyond the limits of despotism.
132
KH0L0A r lNSKA.
In conclusion, it may be remarked that Countess
Pototskii died lately, while travelling in Poland or
Germany, and the property she left becomes the
portion of two sons and two daughters.
When we were ready to set off from Uman, the
horses were not sent according to agreement, and
I was obliged to go and find them. They were
then put to the carriages, but their proprietor re¬
fused to let them go away unless he had his
fare beforehand. Having seen enough of Jewish
roguery we declined giving the whole, but offered
a part of the money. He would not receive it,
the horses were taken from the carriages, and sent
home. Having had a letter for the Gorodnitchii,
a Greek long domiciliated in Russia, we had be¬
come acquainted with him, and now, though late
in the evening, I went to his house, and made a
complaint against the Jew. An imperious order
was sent immediately to harness the horses, which
was reluctantly complied with, and at mid-night
we left the town. We travelled all night, and on
the morning of the 24th April arrived at Kholo-
vinska, a distance of nearly forty versts. The
light of the moon enabled us to see the nature of
the country we were traversing, which was varied
and pretty, but not so fine as that we had passed
through tw T o days before.
Kholovinska is really a wretched village, almost
entirely filled with Jews whose appearance and
tattered clothes betokened indigence and want. It
KHOLOVXNSKA.
133
was our design to remain here only to breakfast,
but we were detained half a day by the stupidity
of a Russian smith, who undertook to fasten the
ring within the box of one of the wheels of the
calash which had got loose. He took the wheel
with him, but instead of fastening the ring, he
spoiled it. He then made a new ring which was
too small, and in cutting the wood to admit a
second, he made the opening by far too large.
The defect he remedied with tow, and made a
paste of earth and tar, with which he filled up the
interstices, and covered all blemishes. We paid
him for his trouble, and laughed heartily at the
ingenuity of his imposition, at which the Jews
seemed highly pleased.
Soon after leaving Kholovinska we entered upon
a plain; on which scarcely a village, a tree, an
animal, or a human being was to be seen. As
we foresaw, we had scarcely commenced the stage
before the smith’s workmanship gave way; but
fortunately this was of no immediate import¬
ance. At some distance from Boghopole, by a
sudden spring of the horses in crossing a ditch,
the pole of one of the carriages was broken. We
were near a village, and sent back a servant on
horseback to find some kind of pole or piece of
wood, which was purchased for five roubles. While
the pole was arranging, Count Ozerovskii came up
with us, politely asked what accident had oe-
k 3
134
ARRIVAL AT BOGHOPOLE.
curred, then entered into conversation, and finished
by inviting us to pass the night in the house of
Countess Pototskii at Boghopole, as no good inns
or lodgings were to be found there. After tra¬
versing about forty versts of a stej) * country we
arrived at Boghopole, were kindly received by the
Countess’s steward, and got tea and supper and a
comfortable lodging for the night. The steward
appeared quite master of the place, and probably
he had more influence than his late employer.
In Russian Poland, as in Russia Proper, the
stewards of the nobility frequently gain a complete
ascendancy over their lords and their property;
and contrive, by direct or indirect means, to secure
* Step, and not steppe , as the Germans, the French, and the
British generally spell it, is a very expressive Russian word, and
is differently applied. It often means an immense extent of
uncultivated land devoid of habitations and trees. Such steps
are to be seen in many parts of the south of Russia, and in the
Kuban. They are generally level or nearly so, and often seem
boundless, but they are not deserts ; on the contrary, many of
them are covered by a rich soil, produce most abundant crops
of grass, and are enamelled with the choicest tints in the
diversity of their wild flowers, which all flourish in the plains
till the change of the seasons, when they wither and decay,
and renew themselves by their seeds, from year to year, un¬
touched by the hand of man. How often, in traversing these
steps, have we thought of the feasts and revels the half-starved
animals of the creation would have if let loose among their
abundant herbage. Other steps are nearly barren, and like de¬
serts without trees, present a boundless surface of arid sand,
as is the case near Astrachan.
RUSSIAN STEWARDS.
135
their own fortune, even should they keep their
places but for a short time.
I have stated, in another work, that the stewards
of the Russian nobility, for the most part, are a
set of men — unworthy the name of men — of
villains and of robbers, in no degree behind the
merchants in their proneness to deceit, while they
are equally destitute of virtue, equally void of
shame, equally given to corruption, and equally
depraved in morals. They seldom fail to enrich
themselves ; and it often happens, that while their
lords and masters come to poverty and starvation,
they are enjoying themselves in revelry, the song,
and the dance. * I have also said that, “ to pro¬
cure a good, and honest, and clever steward, in
Russia, is a matter of infinite difficultyhence an
adage, ‘ Buy not a village, but buy a steward for
yourself.’ “ As things are at present, by far the
greatest part of stewards upon noblemen’s estates
are their own slaves, and are generally very corrupt
in their morals. Some of the richer nobles have
free stewards, and most of them are great villains ;
a few, however, are reputed for their honesty and
good conduct.” t The same remarks might, per¬
haps, be applied to the Polish stewards, with a
slight shade of difference in their favour. It must
not be understood, however, that I mean this di-
* Character of the Russians ? &c. p. xxii.
f Ibid. p. 550.
I3f> RUSSIAN STEWARDS.
gression as a censure upon Countess Pototskii’s
steward, who, on the contrary, bore an excellent
character.
The Russian nobility are not ignorant of the
infamous and extensive injustice they suffer at the
hands of their stewards. Many cases have occurred
in which the relations or friends of a nobleman
have pointed out numerous palpable instances
in which he had been grossly cheated. But the
general answer is, “ I am well aware that my
steward deceives me, and cheats me in kind and in
money, and is becoming rich by his nefarious con¬
duct ; but what can I do ? For the same reasons I
have repeatedly changed my stewards, and found
every one as bad, or worse, than another; and to
say the truth, the present is more moderate in his
impositions than his predecessors. I may discharge
him to-day, and have a worse to-morrow, and be¬
sides suffer all the disadvantages which every such
change necessarily incurs.” A few anecdotes will
tend to illustrate these statements.
When the late Count Platof was informed by
his relations that his stewards received greater
revenues than he himself) and openly acquired
considerable property, he answered them with
sangfroid, in a Russian proverb: “ Every lime-
Iree is not in a line” “ You think I do not see :
I see all; by whom, if not by us, can they enrich
themselves? I am content: let them alone, and
they shall be content, and shall become rich for
RUSSIAN STEWARDS. 137
their pains, provided my peasants, my golubtchiks,
(my doves) are happy and tranquil.” *
A nobleman, with whom I lived as physician,
for a short time, and who had the fascinating art
of inducing persons, wherever he resided, to give
him credit, even when he was well known to be
a bad payer, at length lost his character, both
in the capitals, and even in some small towns, ex¬
cept among strangers. In a district town he was
in debt to all the principal merchants, not one of
whom would send their wares to his excellency
upon credit. But, strange to tell, they would all
give credit to a considerable amount to his steward,
who was his slave. I have known tea and sugar
refused to the master, but sent to his estate im¬
mediately when the steward put his signature to a
scrap of paper, the contents of which implied that
he bound himself personally to make good their
payment.
In the year 1815, I arrived at Avtchurin, in the
government of Kaluga with Mr. Poltaratskii. This
nobleman, many years ago, had made one of his
slaves, who had been educated on purpose, his
steward, upon that estate. He behaved so in¬
famously, and was guilty of such roguery, that his
master displaced him, reduced him to his former
condition, and as a peasant he again was em¬
ployed. By his submission, assiduity, and apparent
* Jisn i Podvigi; or, Lite anil Combats ot Count Platof,
part iii. p. 12.
138
UUSSIAN STEWARDS.
contrition, after two or three years, he accom¬
plished his redemption, and Mr. P. upon his
swearing, in future, to be faithful and honest, re¬
instated him as steward of the village. For a
short time he acted properly, but afterwards was
guilty of most profligate and flagrant acts of dis¬
honesty. On the afternoon of the day of our
arrival, he made repeated courteous visits and
was well received; his master gave not the slight¬
est indication of displeasure, or of any know¬
ledge of his false conduct and breach of his
oath: little was dreamed of what was approach¬
ing. Mr. P., some weeks ago, had sent a poor
officer to reside in his house at Avtchurin, and to
be useful in any capacity. He was a spirited
young man, and, agreeably to the plan concerted
between Mr. P. and himself, he prepared a couple
of bundles of rods (called in Russ batbji ), and
then stationed two strong men, in a room in one
of the wings of the house, whom he instructed in
the part they were to execute. The steward, who
was loitering at his ease in his own house, was sent
for to come and speak to Mr. Poltaratskii. He soon
reached the house, but was told to go to the wing.
He hastened thither, and was somewhat surprised
at his entrance, instead of his master, to meet the
officer, who pretended he had something to say
to him in another room, which they both entered.
The officer then peremptorily ordered him to pidl
off his clothes, and instantly the men stood ready
RECRUIT OF THE ARMY.
139
with the batoji. The steward demurred and made
an effort to escape, but he was overpowered, his
clothes were torn off him, and he received a severe
flagellation. I must confess I was not at all sorry
at his punishment, for he richly deserved it; but
this mode of chastising a steward, and the artful
manoeuvres of Mr. P. to accomplish it, both sur¬
prised and amused me. His master did not dis¬
place him, but threatened that for his next offence,
the strokes would be inflicted with greater seve¬
rity, or that he would give him away tor a soldier,
the most severe punishment in Russia ; perhaps,
even more dreaded than a trip to Siberia; because
the peasants know what is a soldier’s life, but few
return to carry tidings from the mines of the east.
Yet it has been said — though “ the recruiting of
the Russian army is not by volunteer engagement
though “ the magistrates select the most efficient
young men, according to the required number
and though “ the day of nomination is passed in
general grief and each family is in unaffected
affliction at the approaching separation of a son or
a brother”—that “ no sooner is the head of the
reluctant conscript shaved, according to military
habit; no sooner is he recognised as a defender of
his country, than the plaints and lamentations cease,
and all his relations and friends present articles of
dress or comfort to the no longer reluctant recruit
that “ their revel, with the music and the dance,
takes place, until the moment arrives when he is to
140
RECRUIT OF THE ARMY.
abandon his native home, and the adored tomb of
his fathers;” and that “with cheers, the eternal fare¬
well is mutually expressed, and the exulting soldier
extends his regards to his country, and devotes his
new life to the glory and prosperity of his sovereign
and Russia.” It is also added, that “ this moral
death, this military resuscitation, is a phenomenon
generated and perpetuated by patriotism, the funda¬
mental principle of Russian action, which cheers the
soldier in hardship, and animates him in danger.” *
This is a very lively and honourable picture of
the enthusiastic and heroic patriotism of the Rus¬
sian peasants, and of a higher degree of that virtue,
I fear, than is likely to be found in a land of des¬
potism and vassalage, even among many of the
privileged aristocracy. When a new levy of men
takes place, and when every crown-village, cor¬
porate body, or nobleman, receives notice of the
quota of recruits to be furnished, if the peasants
know of the business, nothing is to be seen among
them but agitation and misery. Among those to
be given away as soldiers, though at times deter¬
mined by ballot , are sure to be included all useless
persons — all individuals who have given offence —
in a word, as the Russians express it, all mauvais
siijets. The nobles with deep regret are often
necessitated to part with men who are valuable to
them in a double capacity: first having learned
* Character and Composition of the Russian Army, &c. p. 11.
by Sir R. Wilson.
RECRUIT OF THE ARMY.
141
some profession or trade, as clerks, musicians,
tailors, coachmen, shoe-makers, &c. they are of
great consequence to them upon their estates, as
they command part of their labour for nothing,
and should they grant them a passport to enable
them to engage in business for themselves, they
receive a large obrok, or annual tax: and, secondly,
because the value of such people when sold, is
double or treble that of a common peasant. The
masters threaten to sell these mauvais sujets, or to
give them away as soldiers, if they do not make
amends for their bad conduct; and not unfre-
qucntly the menace is realised when least expected.
I knew a coachman, who was worth a thousand
roubles, (about 43/. at the present rate of ex¬
change) who had often been in disgrace and con¬
finement, for drunkenness and theft, and whose
master had in vain endeavoured to reclaim him;
he was suddenly seized by the police, his head was
shaved, and he was transported to Moscow, and
so rapidly transformed into a soldier, that when he
spoke to me in uniform, a short time afterwards,
I could scarcely recognise him. Contrary to the
most lively part of the above description of Sir
R. Wilson, I have seen the recruits upon telegas and
sledges, drawn at a solemn pace, and surrounded
by their relations and friends who bewailed their
fate in the most lamentable manner; while they,
dejected and absorbed in grief, sat like statues,
or lay extended like corpses. In fact, a stranger
142
COUNT OZEROVSKII.
would assuredly have imagined that he saw a
funeral procession, and heard the lamentations and
the wild shrieks, which, in Russia, are uttered for
the dead. Nor, indeed, would the mistake be great
according to the ideas of the peasants, who take
an everlasting farewell of their children, brothers,
relations, and friends, and consider their entrance
into the army as their moral death. They seldom
indulge the hope of seeing them, or of hearing
from them again, especially in the distant govern¬
ments of the empire, and but too often their anti¬
cipations prove correct. Few furloughs are given
to Russian soldiers, the distance from their homes
rendering visits impossible; and seldom can a cor¬
respondence be kept up by those who can neither
read nor write, and who must trust to the precarious
chance of sending verbal messages. The chances of
falling in battle, or by natural death, before the ex¬
piration of twenty-five years’ servitude, present but
a gloomy and doubtful perspective of the soldier’s
ever again beholding his native home, and justify
the grief and lamentation of his friends.
We found Count Ozerovskii a singular person¬
age ; he amused us till midnight, by his anecdotes,
his grimaces, and his extravagancies. Among
other things he told us, that by the present system
of military colonisation, in thirty years, Russia
would have six millions of troops; but to the ques¬
tion, “ What would she do with them ?” allowing
BOGHOPOLE.
11.3
the possibility of the case, he could give no satis-
tisfactory answer.
Boghopole is a small town, of an exceedingly
mean appearance, in the government of Podolia.
It occupies the angle which is formed by the con¬
fluence of the Sinyucha, and the Boog, and is inha¬
bited by Poles, Russians, and Jews. Olviopole,
on the opposite side of the Boog, is a district town
in the government of Kherson, in appearance and
population the companion of Boghopole. It was
once a frontier town of Turkey, and marks the pro¬
gress of incursion made by her potent neighbour,
whose limits are now beyond Bessarabia.
Having breakfasted with our host, the Countess
Potoskii’s steward, we began to consider how we
were to pursue our route. By the road we had
taken to B6ghopole, our Jewish drivers reckoned
the distance ninety versts, and were paid for that
number, though we were all convinced of their im¬
position. We should have been glad to have
crossed the Boog to 01vlop61e, and to have pro¬
ceeded by the post road to Voznesensk, but we
could not get horses. Nor could we come to any
agreement with the Jews of Boghopole. Under
these circumstances we were reluctantly obliged to
make offers to the impostors who had carried us
fromUman. They had the effrontery to ask seventy-
six roubles to transport us thirty-three versts far¬
ther ; and, after much bargaining, we were glad
to comply with this exorbitant demand. The ex-
144
KONSTANT1NOVKA.
pcricncc of the last two clays made us determine
never again to quit the post-road ; and, above all,
to avoid falling into the hands of Jews. From
Boghopole, after crossing the Sinyucha, by a good
ferry to Kholta, a trifling village; the road is hilly,
and passes over steps: the views are bleak and
dreary, and few villages are seen, because they
chiefly lie in hollows and on the banks of the rivers.
We passed through Ilomanovka and Zvermva, two
small villages, and again reached the Boog, which
we crossed in a ferry-boat. Having traversed a bill,
rock-scenery, in the course of that river, took us
by surprise, and produced most pleasing emotions,
enjoying which we arrived before the house of Co¬
lonel Terpelevskii, at Konstantlnovka, the first of
the military colonies in this direction. It was for¬
merly a small and shabby village, but its streets, its
houses, and its gardens, were repaired and im¬
proved, and a number of new edifices were erected,
as commodious stables for the horses of a whole
regiment, a tolerable sized wooden manege for
training the cavalry, magazines, quarters for the
officers, besides the cottage of their commander.
It was converted into a military colony about three
years ago, and has ever since been maintained in
the best order.
We delivered our letters of introduction, and
were very kindly received by Colonel Terpelev¬
skii and his lady; but, as they only spoke the
Russian language, the pleasure of their society
CAVALRY.
145
was greatly diminished to our party; and I was
obliged to act as interpreter. The situation of the
Colonel’s cottage, with a garden behind it extend¬
ing to the banks of the Boog, is very agreeable and
romantic. After walking in the garden, and ad¬
miring the beautiful stallions which belonged to the
Colonel, who is an amateur of horses, as well as
others which were kept for the stud of the regi¬
ment, dinner was announced. A number of offi¬
cers, some of whom luckily spoke French, partook
of the excellent repast.
After dinner we were shown nearly a hundred of
the cavalry horses, which astonished us by their
appearance, size, and excellent condition ; espe¬
cially those destined for the under-officers. We
were still more astonished on demanding the value
of different horses, that the answer was always two
hundred roubles. The fact is, that the crown only
allows two hundred roubles for the purchase of
each horse, while some of those we saw had cost a
thousand: others were now valued at two thou¬
sand roubles ; and . not one had been bought for
less than two hundred roubles. On asking who
had supplied the additional money, we were in¬
formed that it was Colonel Terpelevskii; and the
matter is easily explained.
The annual pay of the colonels and other
officers of the Russian army, amounts to a mere
trifle; yet most of them, whether they have
private fortunes or not, support a high rank in
i.
VOL. i.
140
CAVALRY.
society, and drive their carriages. The fact is,
that each regiment has an annual allowance made
for its support, and its wear and tear, to use a
vulgar expression. When contracts are made by
the colonel, or the officers, they receive indirect
profits ; when they are made by the government, or
by the commander-in-chief, at the head-quarters of
the first, second, or third army, they have still oppor¬
tunities of gain ; and, if they choose to give false
reports as to the quantity and quality of articles,
which is often the case, they acquire handsome
sums. Cavalry regiments are particularly sought
after by officers, because, not only contracts for
the men, but extensive contracts for the horses,
are made, and of course their profits are greater.
Besides this, they have sometimes an honourable
way of saving a good deal of money. The colonel
generally has the choice of taking the allowance
for his regiment in money or in kind. Now, when
he happens to be stationed in one of the southern
governments of Russia, where corn and hay are
abundant, he takes his allowance in money, makes
the cheapest contracts for necessary supplies,
and puts the surplus into his pocket. But, again,
when he is cantoned in a government in which
corn and hay are dear, he takes them both in kind,
and prevents loss. With these advantages, a
colonel sometimes enriches himself) and generally
secures, at least, a handsome competency. It does,
however, happen now and then, that an elevation
CAVALRY.
147
to this rank proves a man’s ruin; because, a co¬
lonel, on receiving a regiment from his predeces¬
sor, is obliged to take its stock, horses, and accou¬
trements, at a fixed price. If they fall below the
value, so much the worse for him, because good
horses, and good trappings, &c. must be procured
by the time his regiment is examined, or it may be
taken from him. If he be rich, he can afford to do
this; but, some, who were poor, have shot them¬
selves in despair of the ruin which appeared inevi¬
table.
In the spring of 1821 , when rumours of an imme¬
diate war between Turkey and Russia spread on
every side, and when the probability of such an
event was greatly strengthened by orders for dif¬
ferent regiments of infantry to be ready to march
in six days, and for cavalry and artillery regiments
to complete their number of horses within two
weeks, an officer, who was stationed in a provincial
town, was thrown into a dreadful panic. One
evening I found him in his garden, standing im¬
movable as a statue, and with a look of despair.
At length he returned my salutation ; and then said
he was ready to cut his throat. Ten days before
this he had received orders to complete a number
of horses by a given short time — no easy task —
as the sum allowed by government was totally in¬
adequate to procure such animals as were really re¬
quisite. Soldiers, however, were sent every where
into the country, and nearly the whole number of
l 2
148
CAVALIIY.
horses was bought at an extravagant price, every
one of them having cost fifty, sixty, or eighty
roubles more than the crown allowance. Just as
he was about to conclude the bargain for other six
horses still wanting, a communication reached him,
in which he was told not to purchase any. He
had now all the horses to dispose of, which he as¬
sured me would cause a great loss to himself and
not to the crown. This was the cause of his me¬
lancholy. I encouraged him, and laughingly said,
“ My good friend, what you lose to-day you may
gain to-morrow. You know the ways and means
by which that can be done in the Russian army.”
With a smile he signified assent; then, thinking
for a minute, he exclaimed — “ You are right, I
shall think no more of the business.”
Colonel Terpelevskii is chief of the 3d regiment
of the cavalry of the Boog, and has 5000 men,
belonging to the military colonies, under his in¬
spection. Our party had the curiosity to be present
at a baptism in his house, according to the rites of
the Greek church, at the conclusion of which, an
officer, who had been with the army in Germany
and France in 1812—r-14, and who had also visited
Britain, very sagaciously asked me, “ Whether they
baptised children beyond the frontiers of Russia ?”
We were about to start from Konstaninovka,
when one of the Jewish drivers came up to us
weeping. About half way from Boghopole, one
of his horses seemed ill, and he thought it best to
take it out of the carriage, to bleed it at the nosc >
alexandrovka.
14-f#
by means of a pen-knife, and to leave it in charge
of a guide whom Countess Pototskii’s steward had
obligingly sent with us. The Jew stated, that
another man who had been passing by the same
road had just got to Konstantinovka and reported
that the horse was dead. He wept and begged our
pecuniary assistance. Suspecting that this was, in
the first place, a Jew’s trick; and, in the second, feel¬
ing little compassion, if the report were even true,
for a man who had so grossly imposed upon us,
and also knowing that the old broken-winded
animal was of very little value when living, we dis¬
missed him with a five-rouble note.
We had a military post from Konstantinovka,
i. e. horses belonging to the colony, at eight
kopeeks per verst, soldiers in uniform for drivers,
and soldiers for postillions. As each carriage had
six horses, as the road was smooth like a bowling
green, and as the drivers were masters of their
art, we got on rapidly to Alexandrovka, another
military station. Our route was up and down hill,
through a naked dreary country, on the extensive
pastures of which we remarked more cattle grazing,
than we had seen between Uman and Boghopole.
The moment of our arrival at the post-house, a mili¬
tary smotritel ordered our horses and inscribed our
podorojne, and by the time we had walked about to
see the station, the carriages were ready for our
departure.
Alexandrovka is a small village; it has been im-
- l 3
150
VOZNESENSK.
proved in the same manner as Konstantinovka; and
had a clean neat appearance, much enlivened by
an inclosed square green court, in which a small
church somewhat awkwardly stands.
From Alexandrovka to Voznesensk the road was
much of the same kind as that of the last station;
and the drivers being equally adroit, w T e made
great speed, and arrived there about 9 o’clock in
the evening.
Voznesensk which lies upon the Boog, was a
very insignificant town, with Sokolof in its vicinity,
and received its name in the reign of Catha¬
rine I. on account of a church which was raised
by that sovereign’s orders, and was dedicated to
the Vozneseniye, or the Ascension. At a new
division of the Russian empire in 1793, it be¬
came the chief town of a government to which
it lent its name, and which was afterwards abolished.
The following account of it is given by Castelnau.
“ Woznesensk, which ought to be the seat of a
government, is only a chief place of the Kozaks of
the Boog : this little warlike tribe of six or seven
thousand souls forms many regiments: they are the
remains of the Moldavians and the Arnaouts who
took arms for Russia in the wars against the Turks.
They have the same military constitution as the
Kozaks of the Don; although they are conducted
by their Ataman, they are, nevertheless, under the
orders of the governor of New Russia.”*
* Vide Castelnau’s Essai sur l’Histoire de la Nouvelle Rus-
sie ? vol. ii. p. 338 .
VOZNESENSK.
151
Voznesensk is now one of the largest of the
southern military colonies, and is the head-quarters
of the 1st regiment of the hulans of the Boog;
indeed two squadrons of this regiment are here
colonised. At present it is the residence of Count
(Ivan Osipovitch) de Witt who is occupied in ar¬
ranging this colony, and in training that regiment,
to serve as models for other places. He intends
soon to remove his head-quarters to Elizabet-
grad, a district town in the same government,
which is chiefly peopled by Raskolniks or Schis¬
matics.
Voznesensk has of late been completely meta¬
morphosed. It now contains a number of regular
and wide streets which are lined with new edifices.
Almost all the old buildings have been repaired
and white-washed. A temporary wooden riding-
school ; a fine large new stone riding-school; a
school for the cantonists or young soldiers con¬
ducted upon the Lancasterian system ; another for
the female children under the direction of Countess
de Witt; military stores and magazines; numerous
houses for the officers who reside here; and a mili¬
tary hospital with an extensive garden round it,
were all pointed out to our notice. Many of these
edifices are constructed of lime-stone, full of shells,
like that which we afterwards saw at Odessa, and
which abounds in this neighbourhood, and over a
considerable extent of country. The date of the
conversion of Voznesensk into a military colony is
l f
152
MILITARY COLONIZATION.
commemorated by an inscription upon a pillar op¬
posite the school, the 24th December, A. D. 1817 ;
a day which is annually remembered by the in¬
habitants with deep regret and lamentation.
After partaking of an excellent dinner with a
large party of officers, at the Countess de Witt’s,
we saw a number of the cavalry reviewed in
the manege and a great many of the best horses;
and were afterwards conducted to see a company
of 200 cantonists exercise and manoeuvre. As all
the novel details of the system of military colo¬
nisation are contained in a pamphlet lately pub¬
lished, I shall not enter deeply into the subject
here.* I may, however remark that the grand
feature of this system is the organisation of an
immense army from among the crown-peasants,
who are to be employed in agriculture in time
of peace, and to form nearly the whole of the
land force of the empire in time of war; in fact,
during peace, to have a resident self-supporting
soklier-agriadtural army, or one, at least, which
will cost the crown but little except their arms. It
has been rumoured of late that the plan was about
to be abandoned; but this is a mistake. On the con¬
trary, it is not long since a fresh nkdz was issued
respecting the organisation of the colonies; and the
whole circle of Starobelsk, which belonged to the
government of Voroneje, is incorporated with them.
** Vide, An Account of the Organisation, Administration, and
Present State of the Military Colonies in Russia, 1824.
RAPIDITY OF TRAVELLING.
153
All being ready, at one o’clock of the morn¬
ing of the 20th April, we left Voznesensk for
Odessa, a distance of 125 versts. The road was
excellent, and while in motion we went on very
rapidly; but we were detained at the stations, on
account of the horses being at some distance graz¬
ing in the step's, a practice which is very common
in the south of' Russia. On the arrival of an equi¬
page, a man is sent on horseback half a verst, a
verst, or even two versts, and drives home the re¬
quisite number. However disagreeable the delay
of an hour, or even two hours, may be, the travel¬
ler can find no remedy but patience. This is pe¬
culiarly the case in the government of the Cauca¬
sus. When Count de Witt travels, an avant-
courier generally prepares horses for him at every
station, and he proceeds with great rapidity; he has
made the journey from Voznesensk to Odessa in
six hours, and repeatedly in six hours and a half.
The long-continued level roads through the step-
country of Russia, which in dry weather arc
smooth as a bowling-green, are very favourable for
rapid motion ; and at many of the stations excel¬
lent horses are kept. A French writer has said,
“ on courre la poste en France et en Angleterre ,
mats en Rassie on vole*,” which is really pretty
correct. But the great impediments to rapid jour-
nies are the delays at the stations, and the con¬
tinual dismounting of the drivers, to adjust the
* Voyage en Crimee, &c. par J. Ueuilly, p. 1.5. Paris, 1806.
154
KAPIDITY OF TRAVELLING.
badly arranged horse-harness or ropes. .Couriers
who travel in telegas , (as already remarked, the
lightest and best adapted carriage in Russia for
speed), make journeys the rapidity of which is al¬
most incredible. Thus they often go from Odessa
to Petersburgh and vice versa , a distance of I 876
versts (1251 miles) in six or seven days ; and Mr.
Yeames the British consul, told us that he once
despatched a messenger from Odessa to that capital
and received an answer in thirteen days. A Mr.
Clement assured us that he arrived at Mozdok from
Petersburgh, a distance of 2425 versts (1617 miles)
en courier in nine days. But when he got to the
post-house he was unable to move, having quite
lost the use of his limbs, and was carried into it
with his despatches. A long-continued Russian
bath, plentiful friction with birch branches, and
two days’ repose however restored him to his usual
health. I have heard of many similar instances j
but it is not only in the south, and over level roads,
that enormous speed may be made. By paying
well, the traveller, if he finds horses at the stations,
may do the same almost every where in Russia,
and particularly so between Petersburgh and Mos¬
cow. Long ago Peter the Great made the journey
between these capitals, during winter, in forty-six
hours ; a journey of 728 versts or nearly 486 miles.
When the town of Kherson was erecting, Prince
Potyemkin accelerated the works with incredible
activity, and “ was frequently seen to set out from
RAPIDITY OF TRAVELLING.
1 55
Petersburg!!; fly, as it were, to the banks of the
Dneper; and make his appearance on those of the
Neva, in less time than would be requisite for an
ordinary man to perform the journey to Moscow.”*
The Emperor Alexander, however, has excelled all
his predecessors in the rapidity of his motions.
He has oftener than once travelled in an open
sledge, and in severe weather, from Petersburgh to
Moscow in forty-two hours. I believe those who
accompanied his Majesty have not the least desire
for a repetition of the compliment paid to them.
But, indeed, in Russia it is quite common to tra¬
vel above 200 miles in twenty-four hours, inclu¬
ding not only the stoppages at the stations, but
also the delays absolutely necessary for frequently
adjusting the horse-harness, or rather ropes: this
gives an average of about eight and one third
miles per hour; so that all lost time must be made
up by galloping at full speed as seen in the first and
second vignettes.
The whole tract between Voznesensk and Odessa
possesses little interest. The country is, for the
most part, level, but in a few places hilly, and is
enlivened with few villages. About twenty-five
versts from Odessa, corn-fields and villas drew our
attention ; and the nearer we approached it, the
appearances of cultivation and of population pro¬
portionally increased. Ten versts distant we had
the first view of this town and of the Black Sea,
* Life of Catharine II. vol, iii. p. 20.
15(3
ODESSA.
with a small liman or salt-lake, on the right. This
line of road has just undergone a repair; and on a
considerable extent of it, along both sides, and at
short distances, are erected large cones of turf.
Near Odessa are similar cones built of stone,
plastered and white-washed. Worms, a small
German colony, and Maloi Bujalsk, which is said
to contain many Bulgarians, but which we found
chiefly inhabited by Jews, one of whom had con¬
tracted for the post, deserve no further notice.
Our road lay over bare rocks, and through heavy
sands, round the bay ; and we entered the suburbs
of Odessa, through a row of columns, which
formed the barrier. A Kozak-guard is stationed
here, who took our podorojnd, and, after having
entered our names in the register, returned it. A
long drive through the suburb, called Persip,
brought us to a pretty steep hill, which we ascend¬
ed, between two columns, called the barrier of
Kherson, and made our entrance into the town of
Odessa, of which a representation is given in the
vignette belonging to this chapter. There are
few inns in this town ; but we got well lodged at
one called the English Club.
CHAP. IV.
ACCOUNT OF THE RISE AND PROGRESS OF ODESSA. — OBSTACLES
TO ITS INCREASE.-ITS SITUATION AND ARCHITECTURE.-
DESCRIPTION OF ODESSA. - LIME STONE. - PLANTS. -
PUBLIC GARDENS ENGLISH ' CLUB. —• LYCEUM. SEMINA¬
RIES FOE FEMALES. — THE TOWN-HOSPITAL. — THE
POLICE-OFFICE.— THE THEATRE.-THE ASSEMBLY-ROOMS
AND EXCHANGE.-THE CATHEDRAL AND CHURCHES.-THE
QUARANTINE-ENGLISH RACES.—AGRICULTURAL ESTA¬
BLISHMENT. — COMMERCE OF ODESSA. — FRAUDS AT THE
158 THE RISE AND PROGRESS OF ODESSA.
CUSTOM-HOUSE. —FANCY-WORK IN RUSSIA. — POPULATION
OF ODESSA.— ODESSA A FREE PORT. — IMPOLITIC CONDUCT
OF THE GOVERNMENT.— PRESENT MEASURES.-ANECDOTES.
-DEPARTURE FROM ODESSA.-COBLKY.-OIBIA.-PIIE-
DEROVKA, A MILITARY COLONY.— ARRIVAL AT NIKOLAEF—
LODGING SELECTED BY THE POLICE. — ADMIRAL GREIG.-
DESCRIPTION OF NIKOLAEF.-THE DEPOT DE CARTES AND
MUSEUM_THE DOCKS.- SPASSKI.- THE POPULATION.-
DEPARTURE FROM NIKOLAEF. -KHERSON. - HOWARD’S
MONUMENT. — CAUSE OF THIS PHILANTHROPIST’S DEATH.
Odessa, a town, which has risen as if by magic,
from the bosom of a desert on the shores of the
Black Sea, has peculiar claims to attention, espe¬
cially on account of its commercial relations with
Europe and yet it has not been accurately de¬
scribed by any English traveller since it acquired
much importance. As the history of this town is
intimately connected with that of the other ports,
and the commerce of the Euxine, I shall here
throw together a number of general observations,
for which I am greatly indebted to the letters of
Monsieur Sicard. I shall then take notice of every
thing remarkable in this new city.
Peter the Great, wishing to civilise his nation,
wisely considered that he should best effect
his purpose by extending and improving its com¬
mercial relations. With this design he established
the commerce of the Baltic, and had prepared for
similar success on the Black Sea; but different ob¬
stacles opposed his plans, and with difficulty he
preserved Taganrog upon the Sea of Azof) as the
THE RISE AND PROGRESS OF ODESSA. 159
emporium for the commerce of the south of Russia.
It was reserved for Catherine II. to realise his
projects by conquest; and for Alexander to con¬
solidate them by the wisdom and the mildness of
his government.
By the treaty of Kainardji in 177E and a con¬
vention in 1799, Russian vessels were allowed to
navigate the Black Sea; and the passage of the
Dardanelles was opened to them. With the view
of profiting by these circumstances, and of esta¬
blishing commerce and a marine in the year 177 S>
Russia founded the town of Kherson, on the right
bank of the Dneper, and seventy-two versts from
its embouchure. Many privileges were granted to
this new establishment by the Empress, which at¬
tracted a number of strangers, and a considerable
commerce to it. Its relations, which began with
Constantinople and the Archipelago, soon ex¬
tended to Marseilles, Livornia, Trieste, &c. But
it was soon found that Kherson, however well-
adapted in some respects, as the port of the Black
Sea, yet had numerous inconveniences. 1. The
cataracts of the Dneper greatly impeded the water
communication with the interior ; all merchandise
being necessarily discharged at them, carried about
seventy versts by land, and then re-imbarked so as
to arrive at Kherson. 2. All vessels which drew
more than six feet of water were obliged to remain
at Glubokoye, thirty versts below the town.
3. Front the month of October the Dneper is
1G0 THE RISE AND PROGRESS OF ODESSA.*
covered with ice, and often remains so till the month
of March. 4. The breaking up of the ice is very
dangerous, so that commerce cannot be securely
carried on for more than seven months of the year.
5. The air of Kherson is insalubrious.
The only way of obviating these serious incon¬
veniences, was to make choice of some more
suitable place ; but at that time, this was impossi¬
ble, because the Boog then formed the frontier
between Turkey and Russia.
The commerce of Kherson, notwithstanding all
obstacles, continued to extend daily : it employed
more than 200 Austrian or Russian ships, which
maintained the commerce of Gallicia by the
Danube; of the government of Kherson, by the
Dneper; and even of Kaffa, as the Krimea came
under the domination of Russia in 1788. But the
war which took place between the Porte and the
Imperial Courts of Russia and Austria, in 1787 ,
paralysed this growing commerce. The peace
concluded between the Porte and Austria in 1790,
in some degree restored its vigour ; but it was not
till after the conclusion of peace between the Porte
and Russia in 1792, that it quite regained its pros¬
perity. According to this treaty, Russia extended
her frontiers from the Boog to the Dnester ; and,
in the following year, by the partition of Poland,
she acquired the provinces of this kingdom nearest
the Black Sea. The inconveniences of Kherson
were now still more felt, and another port was
PROGRESS OF ODESSA.
1(51
Wanted ; besides, it was necessary to think of find¬
ing a more convenient exit for the productions
of the new provinces, than by Kherson. The road
or harbour of Hadjibey, a Tartar village, composed
of a few huts, and with a small fortress, from time
immemorial, had offered shelter in winter, or in
storms, to vessels navigating the Euxine, and had
served for the embarkation of grain and merchan¬
dise, which Constantinople drew from the neigh¬
bouring regions. From the position of this village
and its port, it was thought well-adapted for the
fulfilment of the double purpose above mentioned.
The new establishment excited the solicitude of
the Empress in 1796> who named it Odessa, and,
indeed, she had already conferred upon it different
privileges, which had attracted thither a consider¬
able population and commerce; a colony of Greeks
from the Archipelago were there settled, and a
mayor was appointed. Admiral Ilibas, by whom
Hadjibey had been taken from the Turks, having
remarked its advantages, proposed to make it a
commercial port, as well as a place of shelter for
vessels of war. His plans were approved of, and the
necessary works were begun; but, whether owing
to the difficulties that a naked country presents,
to the dearth of all the necessary materials ex¬
cept stone, or to some inherent defect in the
arrangements, many millions of roubles were ex¬
pended in the construction of a fortress, barracks,
and some other public establishments, at that time
II
vol. r.
162
PROGRESS OF ODESSA.
of little importance. It would appear likewise
from the reports of some writers that part of the
public money had been misapplied, and the poi't
remained unfinished. Strangers, as well as Rus¬
sians, who had been induced by the proffered ad¬
vantages to settle at Odessa, dreading that the
town would be abandoned before it was finished,
and afraid of risking their capitals, only erected
small temporary edifices, notwithstanding that the
admiral gave a good example by building a large
house for himself. At its commencement, Odessa
became a refuge for the worst members of society
of the neighbouring countries. Above 300 Jewish
families, most of them from Gallicia, besides a great
number of workmen, fixed themselves there. The
Emperor Paul, deceived by the ideas given him of
the town, endeavoured to put its magistracy upon
the same footing as that of Riga and Revel, towns
which had existed for ages; but it was soon found
necessary to re-establish the former system. To¬
ward the end of his reign, that sovereign bestowed
the most signal favours upon Odessa : he granted
to it the farming of spirits, and exemption from all
taxes and from providing soldiers’ quarters for
twenty-five years. He also lent the town 25,000
roubles, without interest, to be repaid at the con¬
clusion of that period, and made a present to it of
all the materials which had been collected for
making a port for vessels of war. Dr. Clarke,
however, has asserted, that the Emperor became
PROGRESS OF ODESSA.
163
usurer, having lent the merchants a sum of money
with enormous interest, and upon the strongest
security; but, as in many other instances, I believe
this was a mistake of that lively writer’s. He
must have alluded to a private loan spoken of
hereafter.
Notwithstanding all Paul’s concessions, Odessa
lost ground during his reign. The treaty of Lune-
ville had just restored peace to the Continent when
Alexander ascended the throne. Soon afterwards
a termination was put to serious differences be¬
tween England and Russia, and the commercial
relations of France with the latter country were
re-established by a treaty in 1801. To the treaty
of Amiens, concluded at the commencement of
1802, succeeded that of France with the Porte, by
which French vessels were put on the same footing
with those of the other nations most favoured in
Turkey; and in consequence obtained the liberty
of navigating the Black Sea. Soon afterwards the
English, the Prussians, the Neapolitans, the Ra-
gusans, the Dutch, and the Republic of the Seven
Islands obtained the same privilege. This me¬
morable epoch liberated the Black Sea from the
domination of the Turks, which became a common
domain, and the centre of great speculations.
Odessa was the essential rallying point of all
these nations. The commerce of 1802 was very
brilliant; 280 vessels arrived from Constantinople
and the Mediterranean ; above 300,000 tchetverts
164
PROGRESS OF ODESSA.
of corn were exported; and a few commercial
houses had formed establishments, which, how¬
ever, wanted solidity. The population might now
amount to 7000 or 8000, of whom scarcely a third
part were females. Nearly 500 families of this
number, however, dwelt in the town-lands at short
distances from Odessa. Early in the year 1803,
the activity of the commerce in corn raised great
expectations. The government also, with parti¬
cular solicitude, occupied itself for the interests of
New Russia, and encouraged the trade of Odessa,
while it continued to remit twenty-five per cent.
custom-duties of entry and exit, which Catharine II.
had formerly accorded to all the ports of the Black
Sea. The growing importance of Odessa induced
the Emperor Alexander to appoint the Due de
Richelieu its governor-general, and to grant him
very extensive powers. The Duke soon changed
the face of affairs, fixed the public confidence, and
prepared plans the rapid execution of which was
the more remarkable in a country so thinly inha¬
bited. This year, nine hundred vessels entered the
Black Sea, of which 536 arrived at Odessa, the
greatest part in ballast. Some brought articles
from Spain, France, Italy, and the Levant. All of
them returned laden with corn, which was then al¬
most the only article demanded, and the only one
Odessa could furnish: she not having established
other connexions with the interior of the empire.
This corn was produced by the governments of
PROGRESS OF ODESSA.
165
Podolia, Volchlnia, Kicfj and Kherson: the three
first transported it to Odessa by land, the last partly,
upon lighters, which descended the Dneper, and
reached the roads of Odessa. Mr. Sicard calculates
that this year the value of exported corn amounted
to 4,995,000 roubles, but, probably, he was extrava¬
gant. Though the population in 1803 amounted
to about 8,000, yet the town was merely traced ;
there were only a few houses, small, badly built,
and incommodious; scarcely any magazines; no
public establishments; a very incomplete quaran¬
tine ; and a single mole in the roads, which badly
protected the vessels from the south-east winds.
The environs were uncultivated and desert to the
extent of nearly eighty or ninety versts on every
side; the commercial connexions suffered by this
isolated situation; the inhabitants of the town,
abundantly furnished with the necessaries of life,
wanted fruits, herbs, and numerous objects of .lux¬
ury ; even good water was wanting, at times, for
the numerous animals which were used to transport
the corn to Odessa. The government, aware of
its wants, eagerly consulted its interest. To the
duties upon spirits for the use of the town, were
also added, a tenth of the whole products of the
custom-house, and new funds to cover necessary
expenses. Besides, a sum of money was put at
the disposition of the committee of administration
of the town, to lend to the inhabitants who wished
to build houses at the rate of 6 per cent, per annum.
m 3
166
PROGRESS OF ODESSA.
The gains of commerce, and the above-named
advantages, gave rise to a great many private edi¬
fices, much better built and more convenient than
the former. The town, on its side, commenced to
form a more commodious and more secure port, and
an extensive new quarantine; it laid the found¬
ation of a Russo-Greek cathedral, of a Roman
catholic church, of a gymnasium, of an hospital,
of a theatre, and, in general, of all the establish¬
ments which, now finished, put Odessa upon a
footing with the other towns of Europe. The ad¬
ministration also established many colonies of
Bulgarians, Hungarians, Slavonians, and Germans,
who had willingly abandoned their country, in the
vicinity of the town. The war suddenly renewed
between France and Great Britain in 1803, took
the administration by surprise, in the midst of its
important operations, which justly calculated, how¬
ever, that the trade carried on in neutral vessels,
and encouraged by the interests and the wants of
Europe, would still give great activity to the com¬
merce of Odessa. The year 1804 realised this
hope. The wars of Italy, the disturbances in
Egypt, the prohibition against the grain of Hun¬
gary, had either exhausted or shut up the granaries
of' Europe, which could no longer satisfy her wants
but by Odessa. In this year, 449 vessels departed
with cargoes of corn. The inhabitants now began
to enjoy the advantages of its enlightened admi¬
nistration ; the town was furnished with the neces-
PROGRESS OE ODESSA.
167
sary artisans ; the surrounding districts were tilled,
and a general improvement was made, which
promised future prosperity. And as the interests
of the town were essentially connected with those
of all New Russia, the emperor, the better to
identify them, nominated the Due de Richelieu,
governor-general of the governments of Yekaterf-
noslaf, the Taurida or Krimea, and Kherson.
The commerce of 1804 was flourishing; that of
1805, still more so, and there arrived at Odessa
643 vessels. In 1806, political circumstances
became unfavourable to the navigation of neutral
vessels, and had a great effect upon the commercial
relations of Odessa with Europe. This year there
arrived only 279 vessels, but the communication
of the Levant was extended, and the merchants of
the East found a considerable exit for their mer¬
chandise. Towards the end of the same year, a
rupture took place between Turkey and Russia,
and, of course, a suspension of the connexions of
Odessa with foreign countries was among its conse¬
quences. The treaty of Tilsit led to an armistice
between these two powers, in consequence of
which, in September 1807, different vessels, laden
with corn and other articles, were despatched from
Odessa to Constantinople, and goods were received
by importation. The war, and the suspension of
commerce between the two empires, had produced
great reciprocal wants. Turkey, deprived of its
hogs’ lard, butter, and grain, which were formerly
m 4
168 OBSTACLES TO THE INCREASE OF ODESSA.
furnished to it by Moldavia and Wallachia, was in
total want of these articles; and the grain of the
Morea, on account of the Dardanelles, could no
longer arrive at Constantinople. Egypt had scarcely
any connexion with the capital, and Anatolia was
in a state of anarchy. These causes had re¬
duced Constantinople, Smyrna, and other places
of the Levant, to their only resource, the coast
of Russia on the Euxine: and thus gave rise
to the remarkably increased commerce of L808.
This year Odessa dispatched 399 vessels from her
port, which had imported articles for Russia from
the Levant, to the value of nearly six millions of
roubles, and to the value of nearly ten millions of rou¬
bles of transit goods. Russian products, such as corn,
hogs’ lard, oil, candles, caviare, &c., to the value
of nearly six millions of roubles, were exported.
In truth, at this period, the same circumstances
which completely paralysed the commerce of other
places, acting inversely upon that of Odessa,
here opened a new branch, viz. the transit of
cottons, and other kinds of merchandise from the
Levant, by Odessa, to Brodi, Vienna, and other
places, as well as the transit of other wares, vice
versa.
From the above account of Odessa, up to 1810,
Mr. Sicard justly says, that it had made a rapid
progress; and that the individual who had only
dwelt in it five years before would no longer
have known it. Two powerful obstacles, however.
ORSTACLES TO THE INCREASE OF ODESSA. lfif)
to. the commerce and increase of this town must
always have operated, and always will operate, —
the want of a navigable river and of a supply of
water for the purposes of life, to which may be
also added the great dearth of fuel; fire-wood being
so extremely valuable that the stoves of the poor
are lighted with dried weeds, shrubs, dung, and
other refuse. Many attempts to procure a sufficient
supply of water have been made by digging innu¬
merable wells in the town; but all, with the exception
of about half a dozen, have proved abortive; and that
half dozen are valued in proportion to the difficul¬
ties which attended their discovery. The peasants,
who arrive in summer with corn from the south of
the empire, are sometimes in danger of losing their
oxen, which not unfrequently amount to two or
three thousand, although a watering-place has been
made on purpose to obviate this inconvenience.
The chief fountain of supply of water for Odessa
lies at the distance of between three and four versts
south of the town ; and, when we consider the other
gigantic undertakings of the Due de Richelieu, we
are truly astonished that he did not cause a reser¬
voir to be formed, to which an abundant supply of
water from the fountain might be easily conducted
by pipes, and thence to every dwelling. This, no
doubt, will be attended with considerable expence,
because the spring is greatly below the level of the
town, and the water must be raised by hydraulic
machines; but, should Odessa flourish, it will be
170 SITUATION AND ARCHITECTURE OF ODESSA.
an indispensable work. The fountain is situated
on the sea-shore, and the rapid descent to it is pro¬
bably not less than 140 or 160 feet. A small build¬
ing is erected over the spring, and is guarded by
three Kozaks, who live there, and alternately keep
guard. The water issues continually in a consi¬
derable stream from the limestone rocks, from
which, though apparently pure, it receives a strong
impregnation, and is rendered very hard. Barrels
are filled with it, and transported to town, either by
carts or in boats. The ascent of the hill is a
serious draft for loaded horses, and increases the
expence of the water, each small barrel of which
costs from a rouble to a rouble and a half, according
to the distance from the fountain. A friend of
mine told me, that his moderate menage cost him
eight or ten roubles a week, and that some indivi¬
duals paid double that sum for water — no small
tax for one of the indispensable articles of life.
Odessa is situated in the government of Kher¬
son, under 29° 24' E. L. and 46° 28' N. L. # , and is
1876 versts distant from Petersburgh, 1402 from
Moscow, and 164 from the town of Kherson, forty
versts west from the embouchure of the Dneper,
and 51 east of that of the Dnester.
In a dissertation in another work I have given it
* This is according to Brookes’s Gazetteer. In Norrie’s (< Sea -
wans Next) Daily Assistant,” Odessa is said to be under 30°37'
E. L. and 46° 2S f N. L. It is strange, that scarcely two books
have the longitudes and latitudes of places alike.
DESCRIPTION OF ODESSA.
171
as ray opinion, that in point of regularity and archi¬
tecture, Odessa may be said to be Petersburg!} in
miniature. In both the experience of ages, and
the skill and superintendence of famous architects,
chiefly Italian and French, have contributed much
to their embellishment. Thus, as on other occa¬
sions, by an enlightened policy, Russia has availed
herself, to a great extent, of the labours, science,
and general knowledge of her neighbours. Pe¬
tersburgh, renovated Moscow, Odessa, Kherson,
Nikolaef Taganrog, and Novo-Tcherkask, abun¬
dantly testify the success which has attended the
anxious exertions of her monarchs in raising cities
and towns, which excite the astonishment and the
admiration of travellers from the most polished na¬
tions. Had all the public money, so prodigally
dispersed by some of the sovereigns of Russia,been
devoted to similar purposes, how many more
flourishing towns and villages might have claimed
a place in the journals of travellers, even as they
traversed unfertile regions.
The streets of Odessa are all regular, straight,
and spacious, and they intersect each other at
right angles. Some of them are a mile in
length, and a few are adorned by row's of trees on
each side. They are still unpaved; and, we were
informed, that many of them are indescribably
dirty in autumn and spring after heavy rain: it
was even said, that it was necessary to order a car¬
riage merely to cross the street. It had not rained
172
DESCRIPTION OF ODESSA.
for some time previous to our arrival, yet, in many
places, the principal streets were dirty, and had holes
full of water. The trottoirs are not good ; and, in a
modern town, we were surprised at finding deep un¬
covered ditches on each side of all the streets. In
many of them the houses are contiguous, in others
they are separated by courts and gardens. All the
edifices are of stone, and generally plastered over,
and painted different colours. Their roofs are made
of wood, or of sheets of iron, gaudily painted, some¬
times also of tiles, and of slates from the Krimea.
Comparatively speaking, but few low houses are
to be seen. Odessa is built upon-the same lime¬
stone rock of which its edifices are constructed, and
really it may be called “ JJn coquillage ,” a con¬
geries of shells, which falls very rapidly into decay.
It cannot escape the notice of the spectator, that
every structure of a few years’ standing presents nu¬
merous defects in its fa9ades, the stones having been
either altogether, or partly, cut out of unconsoli¬
dated layers of the rock. Among other interest¬
ing observations by Dr. Clarke, respecting this lime¬
stone, we find the following : — “It is in a semi-
indurated state; but, like the Ketton-stone, and
almost every other variety used for architectural
purposes, hardens by exposure to the atmosphere.
When examined closely, it exhibits throughout the
entire mass no other appearance than an aggregate
of small cockle-shells, all exactly of the same size,
perfect in their forms, but crumbling in the hand,
LIMESTONE.
173
and coloured by the yellow or red oxide of iron.”*
Like the calcareous tuf of Moscow!, however, al¬
though it hardens for a certain period, it afterwards
decays, and requires a continual renewal, especially
when near the foundation, or when unplastered.
Near the quarantine, I had an excellent oppor¬
tunity of seeing the front of the rock, as they were
cutting it away in order to clear a site for a row of
new buildings, and also for the materials. The
nearly perpendicular face of the hill presented ten
or twelve feet of yellowish-brown soil, a layer or
congeries of petrified shells whose interstices were
filled with earth, a very brittle mass, a layer of
the same kind more consolidated, a layer or ag¬
gregate of shells, but without earth, and still harder;
and another layer in the most complete state of
consolidation found here; and even this layer is
not very hard, so that the workmen, with great
ease, cut masses of it into regular determinate
shapes, by means of saws. Numerous fine spe¬
cimens, which I had collected for England, were
ruined, in consequence of the servant having put
the box which contained them on the perch of the
carriage; when I opened it at Nikolae'f, I found
it full of powder.
The same kind of limestone, as before observed,
is found at Voznesensk, and even further to the
* Clarke’s Travels, p. 625.
f Character of the Russians, kc, p. 75.
174
PLANTS.-PUBLIC GARDENS.
north of the empire. I examined the sea-coast
with some attention, and generally remarked that
the stratum of limestone was horizontal. In some
places it seemed to dip in the line of the coast ,
nearly from north to south, and in other places to
“ dip from day” I suspect that, in consequence of
some dislocation, great masses have fallen, and
changed their natural position, and have led to the
above features. Probably the whole stratum at
one period occupied a nearly horizontal position.
By the sea-shore, and in the sea, I collected
a number of sea-weeds, and, on the limestone
rock and adjoining fields, many plants, the enume¬
ration of which can only prove interesting to the
botanist.* All along the coast the sea-water is
only brackish.
The public gardens, from their central situation,
are a great ornament to the town, and a source of
pleasure to the inhabitants of Odessa. On Sunday
evening, during the fine season, they become the
* The sea-weecls were the following :
Fucus siliquosus
- coccineus
- capillaris
—— viridis
Conferva coccinea
- nigrescens
--— rupestris
Conferva polymorplia
-fucoides
-diaphana
Sertularia abietina
-cupressina
-vermiculata
-pumila.
Some of the plants arc mentioned hereafter.
ENGLISH CLUB.-THE LYCEUM. 175
scene of grand promenades, which are attended by
crowds of individuals of a variety of nations,
habited in their diversified costumes, and speaking
different languages. A military band enlivens
these assemblies, which the governor-general en¬
courages by his presence. The gardens are not
very extensive; they are kept in good order, but
the walks are too narrow.
A number of country-houses and gardens to the
south of Odessa, and upon the sea-coast, which be¬
long to General Cobley, Mr. Rainaud, &c. occupy
a charming situation. They, as well as Countess
Pototskii’s gardens in town, which are open to the
public, are generally visited by the stranger.
There are several inns at Odessa, all of which
are very expensive. We resided in the Club, as it
is called, and paid twenty roubles a day for four
rooms and an apartment for our servants. Dinners
were unreasonably dear. There is a lately-formed
j English Club, or reading-room, in this inn, where
are received the London newspapers and British
journals, &c., and to which strangers are admitted,
upon having their names registered by one of its
members.
For many years past the Russian newspapers
have been continually proclaiming the boasted
progress of the Lyceum. After reading the various
reports on the rise and advancement of the Lycee
Richelieu, and especially what is said by Castelnau
of the gymnasium and the institute, and re-
170
THE LYCEUM.
marked in his plan of Odessa, “ Emplacement du
Lycee Richelieu,” near the sea-shore and in the
country, I was in no small degree disappointed
to find this institution placed in the very centre
of the town, and in a state of decline so. rapid
as to threaten its fall. The fact is, that some
years ago there was a design of erecting a com¬
modious edifice for the said Lyceum, and on the
site indicated; but, instead of realising this plan,
the gymnasium was enlarged and converted into
the Lycee Richelieu. The situation of the present
institution may be convenient for the masters, but
it is by no means well placed as a seminary for
youth. The edifice is very extensive, and, in the
form of an oblong square, divided by a line of
building in the middle. It has no garden,. but
merely a small court for the exercise and amuse¬
ment of the pupils. Two of the fa5ades line two
different streets ; and, as the pavement runs close
by them, to prevent interruption to the pupils,
the windows have been nearly built up, so that a
scanty portion of light is admitted through a few
uncovered panes. The rooms in the upper story
are excellent. The dormitories are without ven¬
tilation ; and I could not conceive the necessity of
having all the windows blocked up except the high¬
est panes. The bed-rooms, of which every pupil
has his own, arc well arranged.
The Lycee Richelieu was in the most flourishing
state for many years. Its situation in a very fine
THE LYCEUM.
177
and healthy climate, together with the advantages
it held out for education, gained it a degree of
celebrity far beyond any similar seminary in the
Russian empire; and the consequence was, that
the nobility of Petersburgh and Moscow, and even
of remote governments, sent their sons thither for
their tuition. Much of its fame, however, de¬
pended on the Due de Richelieu, its founder and
zealous guardian, and its able director the Abbe
Nicolle, who entered with spirit into all the
Duke’s views. Unfortunately the Duke left
Odessa in 1814, and the excellent Abbe resigned
his place about the year 1820, on account of ir¬
regularities and improprieties which he could
neither correct nor control. His resignation
caused the decline, and, it is to be feared, was also
the forerunner of the dissolution of the Lyceum.
At his departure, between 200 and 300 of the
pupils of the best families of Russia bade the
institution adieu. His former assistant now be¬
came his successor; and, although I have heard
him spoken of as a man of talents and assiduity,
he was judged incapable of conducting such an
institution. A gentleman from Riga had just
arrived at Odessa, and it was expected, that under
his directorship and auspices, the seminary would
recover its character. In former times, 300 and
400 pupils were the inmates of the Lyceum; but
in 1S22 it had only 103 boarders, who pay an¬
nually 1200 roubles each, and 100 day-scholars,
vol. r. N
178 SEMINARIES FOR FEMALES.
who come to the institution and receive their
education gratis. The same professors teach both
the boarders and the day-scholars, but at different
hours. The branches of education taught here
are religion, languages, the belles-lettres, rhetoric,
philosophy, history, geography, the mathematical
and physical sciences, military sciences, and the
arts d’agremens. The ,Emperor pays for ten
Russian pupils, and he lately sent as many Greeks,
to be educated at his expense. The Pedagogic
Class, as it is called, contains twenty-four pupils,
who are taught with the view of their becoming
masters of schools in different parts of Russia.
Each professor receives house, wood, candles, and
table, 1500 roubles in cash, and, besides, a pro¬
portion of the profits yielded by boarders; in all
equal now to about 4000 or 5000 roubles j per
annum. The institution belongs to the crown ; and,
besides the payments of the boarders, it receives
the following revenues : from government 37,000
roubles annually, from the Due de Richelieu 3360
dollars, and a variable sum, according to the state
of commerce, of two kopeeks and a half silver,
(i. e. ten kopeeks copper) upon every tchetvert
of corn exported from Odessa.
The education of females is carefully attended
to at Odessa; and a number of boarding schools,
besides public seminaries, are kept by various
individuals. We had the curiosity to make a visit to
Ulnstitut des Demoiselles de Madame Chejdceuvre,
THE TOWN-HOSPITAL.
179
which was formerly connected with the Lycee
Richelieu. It is now a private institution, but is
protected by the Dowager-Empress. It is situated
in a large house near Countess Pototskii’s gardens,
and not far from the sea-shore. It is remarkably
well conducted; and, as it contained sixty-three
pupils, who pay annually 1000 roubles each, it
is evident that it flourishes.
We next proceeded to the examination of
L ’Ecole de Demoiselles an Ra?ig des Ecoles de
District, which is under the care of a colonel’s
widow, who speaks no language but Russian. A
hundred girls, including nobles, burgesses, and
foundlings, are here instructed gratis, in Russian,
writing, arithmetic, needle-work, &c. They do
not live in the house, but attend from eight o’clock
in the morning till noon, and from two to six p. m.
We were highly gratified with this institution, which
appears to accomplish the objects of its intention.
The Gradskoi Goskpitdl, the town-hospital,
or the civil hospital, which forms one of the
most conspicuous objects in Odessa, stands in an
elevated, airy situation near the barrier of Kher¬
son. It is a fine edifice, two stories in height,
with columns in front, but is strangely disfigured
by the apertures of numerous ventilators in its
walls. The lower story we found occupied by a
dirty kitchen half-filled with dried weeds for fuel;
the baths ; the apothecary’s shop; store-rooms; the
council-chamber; and the physician’s rooms. The
N 2
180
TIIE TOWN-HOSPITAL.
patients are all placed in the upper story, and their
number amounted on the day of our visit to 264.
Besides civil patients, prisoners and deserters, who
are guarded, are also admitted, and one room is
allotted for the accommodation of foundlings.
Excellent corridors run through both stories, but
the rooms are not well arranged for a general hos¬
pital ; their ceiling is unnecessarily lofty, and the
windows are covered by internal building to the
height of about seven feet from the floor. Though
ventilators are made in the walls both above and
below the windows, we found the air very bad for
want of renewal. The truth is, that it would be
dangerous to open the inferior ventilators, which
are as low as the patients’ beds, and that the supe¬
rior ones are at such a height, and so small, as to
be altogether inadequate for ventilation, especially
in calm summer weather. How dreary are these
demi-dungeons for the sick, particularly for con¬
valescents, and how badly calculated for the cure
of numerous diseases! On asking for an explan¬
ation of this singular modern structure, we were
told, that the physician who attended there was of
opinion, that light generally had an injurious effect
upon the sick; and that, in the delirium of a
fever, individuals might throw themselves from
unprotected windows. I conclude that this son of
iEsculapius must have had some curious theory
when he proposed such a preposterous arrange¬
ment, especially as there exist at Petersburg!! and
T11E POLICE-OFFICE.
181
Moscow, both civil and military hospitals which
might serve as models for the whole world. Bad
smells and filth met us at every step; and we were
glad to escape from an institution so ill arranged.
It must be much altered since Castelnau, a few
year's ago, spoke of it in terms of admiration. It
appears that no blame attaches to the architect,
whose plan was modified by a board of directors.
A white-washed edifice, adorned with columns,
and with a green-painted roof, which stands near
the cathedral, had an imposing aspect, and caused
our enquiries. We were told it was the Police-
Office ; but we found that, though part of it
is so occupied, and part by the magistracy, yet
that the chief part forms a prison. What a con¬
trast did its interior present to the impressions
which had been raised by its exterior! It contained
264 prisoners, males and females, whose fate was
pitiable. Every where filth, in various forms,
reigned beyond description : “ c’cst line veritable
cochonnerie ,” we all exclaimed, as we made our hasty
escape from its pent-up and dangerous effluvia.
Nothing can more deeply wound the feelings of
the philanthropist, than the inspection of the jails
in Russia, with the exception of those at Peters-
burgh and Moscow, and a few others.
With the augmentation of Odessa, and the
influx of its emigrant population, was also aug¬
mented the taste and the desire to enjoy the
pleasures of polished society. A temporary
n 3
182
THE THEATRE.
Theatre, in which representations took place in the
Russian, Polish, and German languages, early
arose; but a number of years ago, it was super¬
seded by the erection of an elegant stone theatre,
according to a plan of M. Thomon; the front of
which is ornamented by a peristyle supported by
columns. In it Russian, Polish, and German
plays, and Italian operas, have been performed.
Soon after our arrival at the inn at Odessa, a bill
was put into our hands, announcing one of Kot¬
zebue’s plays in Russian, and an Italian opera, for
the evening’s amusement, The interior of the
theatre we found well-arranged, and not inelegant,
but badly lighted. We could neither praise the
performances of the Russian actors, of the Italian
troop, nor of the orchestra ; although they were
superior to what we had expected in a town so
recently known to the world. On the 2d of May,
we were present when the opera “ II Turco in
Italia ” was represented, in which Madame Cata-
lani, a relation of the famous Catalani, was the
prima donna. We were much pleased with this per¬
formance. Madame Catalani has an agreeable
countenance, but trop d’embonpoint to render her
figure attractive. Though her voice was not the
Catalani’s, yet she is a good singer, and no bad ac¬
tress. The Italian opera is much liked at Odessa,
at which we need not be surprised, since the
Italian language is generally spoken there. The
representations, of course, are very frequent. The
THE ASSEMBLY ROOMS. — THE CATHEDRAL. 183
troop were greatly patronised by Count Langeron,
the governor-general of New Russia.
That the people of Odessa might have variety of
enjoyment, Assembly-rooms were many years ago
erected by Monsieur Rainaud, and, we understood,
are well attended. The great oval hall, which is
surrounded by a gallery, supported on numerous
columns, is used for the double purpose of ball¬
room, and an Exchange, where the merchants some¬
times transact their affaiis, though they generally
prefer the Cafe at the inn in which we lodged;
and which was filled from morning till night, espe¬
cially by Jews, who were engaged more in eating,
drinking, and playing at different games, than in
making bargains.
Among the public edifices of Odessa, the Cathe¬
dral, dedicated, I believe, to Saint Nicholas, stands
the most conspicuous. It is finely situated in the
centre of the town, and in the middle of an im¬
mense square, surrounded by trees, and by a balus¬
trade, in which are four gates corresponding to the
four cardinal points. This church is of consider¬
able size; it is built in the form of a cross, and
surmounted by a large cupola. Two of its fa 5 ades
present fine porticos, each with a row of columns.
Its interior is very chaste, spacious, and ele¬
gant, and its floor is formed of white and grey
marble. We remarked some other Greek churches,
as well as the Roman Catholic church, the church
N 4
184 THE QUARANTINE.-ENGLISH RACES.
of the Raskblniks, or Schismaticks, and the Jews’
synagogue.
The Quarantine, within the fortress, is an exten¬
sive establishment, and is described by Castelnau.
In many parts it is incomplete; and, as Count Lan-
geron well remarked, “ it requires a nexo organisa¬
tion but there are no funds ; and, “ Que faire ?”
Having examined this establishment, on the 12th
[the 1st N. S.] of May, we set oflj after an early
dinner, to the race ground, and could almost have
believed ourselves transported to England. Nu¬
merous tents were pitched, the course was roped
in, and an immense concourse of people, of all
ranks, was assembled on foot, or drove about in
different kinds of German, French, Polish, Russian,
and even English, carriages. English gentlemen,
dressed in all the gaudy livery of jockeys, rode
their own horses, nine of whom started, and four
were distanced the first heat. During the third
heat, a Kozak, mounted upon an old half-starved
black poney, accompanied the foremost horse, and
passed the winning-post together with it, to the
great amusement of the spectators. We were told,
it was in agitation to have English races annually
at Odessa.
On a delightful evening we went to the Kta-
blissement Imperial d’Agriculture, which lies at a
short distance from the town, and was founded in
the year 1819- It is, in fact, a nursery for fruit
and forest trees. It occupies seventy-five deciatins
AGRICULTURAL ESTABLISHMENT, — COMMERCE. 185
of land, which are surrounded by enclosures ; and
we may judge of its prosperity by the statement we
received, that it contained 000,000 young trees and
shrubs. It is under the direction of Monsieur de
Schmitz, of German extraction, and does him great
honour. In the south of Russia, where nature has
been so parsimonious of wood, this establishment
may prove of the highest importance, as it easily
affords the means to propagate ornamental plant¬
ations, or forests for timber and fire-wood. The
Emperor gives ten thousand roubles annually
for its support; the town has also liberally contri¬
buted, and besides it has its own profits by sales.
We were told that already above 200,000 roubles
had been expended on this nursery, a sum which
seems to be too extravagant to be true.
Odessa maintains Commerce with France, Spain,
Italy, the Levant, Anatolia, Hungary, Germany,
England, Moldavia, Wallachia, Romelia, &c. In
general, the articles of importation are wines, cot-
ton-stuffs, perfumes, shawls, oil, spices, tobacco,
dried fruits, liqueurs, sulphur, Parmesan cheese,
porcelain, cloth, engravings, paper, &c. For some
time after the foundation of Odessa, the only ar¬
ticle exported were two kinds of grain. But, within
the last ten or twelve years a great variety of mer¬
chandise has been exported, as French beans, peas,
and other legumes, butter, caviare, tallow, hog’s
lard, candles, cards, bar-iron, red leather, hides,
furs, linen, ironmongery (especially from Tula),
186 COMMERCE -FRAUDS AT THE CUSTOM-HOUSE.
starch, chalk, hemp, lint, tar, wax, wax-candles,
horse-hair, isinglass, hemp-oil, linseed-oil, fish-oil,
honey, potashes, rhubarb, soap, bristles, tobacco,
salt beef, pork, hemp-seed, juniper-berries, mats,
timber, &c. &c.
The following table, taken from Reuilly’s and
Castelnau’s works, will give a pretty accurate idea
of the trade of Odessa during a number of years.
It must be remembered, that, in general, the export¬
ation has greatly exceeded the importation, hence
many ships arrived annually in ballast. I could
not obtain any accurate documents at Odessa, with
respect to its commerce, since the year 1813.
Year.
Importation.
Exportation.
Duty.
R.
R.
R.
1802
772,047
1,525,671
1804
1,223,027
2,339,509
155,037
1805
2,156,298
3,399,291
203,605
1806
1,845,125
822,927
209,757
1807
490,330
336,022
76,319
1808
1,901,766
1,975,013
256,706
1809
2,259,004
1,776,290
231,424
1810
2,763,874
3,146,994
445,216
1811
7,040,080
7,747,544
829,241
1812
2,313,521
5,855,045
386,918
1813
3,169,895
8,861,956
683,607
I know not the exact extent to which the crown
is defrauded at Odessa; but, I have reason to be¬
lieve, that the venality is as great at its custom¬
house as in those of the other sea-port towns in
FANCY-WORK IN RUSSIA.
18 ?
Russia; and, as is well known, their general 1 cor¬
ruption and roguery exceeds the bounds of credi¬
bility. JBut it is not only by the sea-ports that
smuggled goods enter Russia. On the frontiers of
Poland, for some time past, a nefarious traffic has
been carried on to a great extent. The stamps of
the regular custom-houses have been imitated, and
the wares have reached Moscow, and from thence
have been despatched all over the empire. These
reasons, together with the fact, that for some years
past, the market in Petersburgh has been glutted
with British manufactures, sufficiently explain the
cause of Manchester, Glasgow, and Paisley, plain
and fancy muslins, being sold at astonishingly low
prices in Moscow. There is another cause which
powerfully operates against the sale of flowered
and embroidered muslins of British production;
they are not valued by the nobility, they are only
purchased by servants, or by the inferior classes of
society.
The fact is, that the Russians are far superior to
the English in tambouring, ceding, flowering, and
embroidering. They have been taught all kinds of
the most beautiful needle-work by the Germans
and by the French, and have succeeded well in
them. Dresden work, particularly, has attained
the greatest perfection. Few of the Russian ladies
occupy themselves with such employment} but
many of them have a number of women slaves, who
are solely devoted to fancy-work } and in the capi-
188
POPULATION OF ODESSA.
tal, those who have not such people, or are not in¬
clined to have any trouble, can at all times pur¬
chase what they want in the repositories and shops
of foreigners, and even of Russians. The same thing
may be done in all the chief government towns
throughout the empire, even at Tobolsk, and per¬
haps also at Kamtchdtka. I make more particular
mention of these circumstances than they would
otherwise merit, because even trifling occupations
tend to the advancement of civilisation. In an¬
other point of view, this information may have its
value, by preventing some from sending improper
goods to the Russian market; as they are really a
drug there, and of course are sold with great loss.
The following statements, though they do not
always correspond, will still enable us to follow the
progressive march of the Population of Odessa;
but it must be remembered, that the rapid increase
was chiefly caused by immigration.* In Odessa*
were, in —
1803, according to Sicard,
-lieuilly,
1804,
1811,
1813,
1814,
Castelnau,
lieuilly,
Stchekatof,
Sicard,
about 8000 souls
4500
7000 to 8000
8000 to 9000
15,000
24,000 to 25,000
Vscvolojskii 18,000 to 20,000
Castelnau, above 30,000
* This convenient word is opposed to emigration, and means
the influx of foreigners into some country. It is frequently
used in the Quarterly Review.
POPULATION OF ODESSA,
189
1820, according to Castelnau, above 40,000
1823, -Vs^volojskii, about 18,000 to 20,000
_M.DePradt, 50,000
1824, -M. Dupin,above 40,000
1923, (by anticipation) M. De Pradt, 200,000.*
Of the different nations which compose the po¬
pulation of Odessa the Greeks are the most nume¬
rous, and consist of a few wholesale, but more
retail, merchants and workmen. There are fewer
Russian merchants, but a great many servants, as
carters, isvostcJiiks, or carriage-drivers, and work¬
men. Among the Poles there are scarcely any
merchants, but numerous individuals in a servile
capacity. The Italians have established many com¬
mercial houses, and among them are some retailers
and artisans. The French, the Germans, the Spa¬
niards, and the English, are not numerous; but they
are by far the most wealthy and powerful citizens.
The Jews are abundant and a few of them are
in very easy circumstances; some are retailers,
tavern-keepers, artisans, or bakers, and others are
usurers. The population of Odessa, with that of
the town-lands, also includes some Armenians,
* These statements are taken from Lettres sur Odt-ssa, par
Sicard, 1812; Voyage en Crimee, par J. Reuilly, 1806; Essai
sur l’Histoire de la Nouvelle Russie, par Castelnau, 1820 ;
Great Dictionary of the Russian Empire, by Stchdkatof,
1801-9; Dictionnaire Geographique-Historique de l’Empirc
de Russie, 1813, 1823, par M. Vsevolojskii; Parallele de la
Puissance Anglaise et Russe, par M. de Pradt, 1823; and Ob¬
servations sur la Puissance de l’Angleterrc et sur eelle de la
Russie, par M. Dupin, 1821-
190
POPULATION OF ODESSA.
some Karaite Jews, some Tartars, and some Mol¬
davians. The environs of Odessa present a pleas¬
ing sight. The former arid step is now covered
by villages, and farms, and cultivated fields, which
near the town, are intermixed with villas, nurseries,
and public and private gardens, It has been
reckoned by some that the inhabitants, within
the distance of a hundred versts of Odessa, amount
to thirty or forty thousand, and occupy between
fifty and sixty villages, which seems rather an ex¬
travagant statement. The surrounding country
now furnishes the town not only with fruits, herbs,
&c. but also with different articles of commerce.
The population of Odessa was certainly aug¬
mented in 1820 , in consequence of the im¬
migration of many Greeks, but its prosperity was
not increased. Their dispersion soon afterwards,
and the departure of some foreigners, in conse¬
quence of the state of trade, must have counter¬
balanced the increase. In 1822 , the commerce
of Odessa was nearly at a stand. The uncertainty
of war between Turkey and Russia; and the
question then agitated, whether this town should
remain a free port or not, palsied commercial
enterprise; and large quantities of goods ordered
from Great Britain were rapidly counter-ordered.
Indeed, it may be collected from what I have
said above, that the lyceum, the quarantine, the
prison, and the other public institutions were all
in a state of disorder or decay; that the Italian
ODESSA A FREE PORT.
191
opera alone seemed to flourish; and that the days of
the gigantic annual increase of population, of com¬
merce, and of wealth, which distinguished the go¬
vernment of the late Due de Richelieu had passed
away.
I must now allude to an important circumstance.
In 1819, a resolution was taken of making Odessa
a free port: a measure, the propriety of which the
Due de Richelieu had long urged. The annun¬
ciation of this event by an uJcaz of the Emperor
Alexander, on the 27 th of August, was celebrated
with feasting and rejoicing, and the spirit and
enterprise of the inhabitants rose to enthusiasm.
But joy was soon followed by perplexity and grief;
for at the end of three years, it was in agitation
to abolish the privilege of free port, though it had
been guaranteed, I think, for fourteen years. At
the time of our visit to Odessa, all eyes were turned
on Mr. Ribaupierre, director of the bank, at Pe-
tersburgh, who had been sent by the crown to
assist a committee in determining the vital ques¬
tion, whether Odessa should remain a free port
or not. The subsequent resolution, that it should
be a free port, has given little stimulus to trade
during the last eighteen months j at this moment
it is in a very languishing condition; and with¬
out regard to the flourishing accounts of Messrs. De
Pradt, Dupin, &c. I question whether the population
of Odessa amounts to 30,000 souls. Nor can we
be surprised at this circumstance. The bad and
192 IMPOLITIC CONDUCT OF THE GOVERNMENT.
faithless policy of having allowed the question to
be canvassed, as to Odessa remaining a free port
or not, before the expiration of the time to which
it was guaranteed, must prove a death-blow to its
interests, unless the crown act with great spirit
and liberality. Who will now venture his capital
upon the faith of the Russian Government, if not
almost seduced to it by the prospect of great
advantages. And, perhaps, the best policy that
could be adopted would be instantly to grant
them. Fortunately, both the Emperor and the
government seem to be sufficiently alive to the
great interest at stake.
In a communication from St. Petersburgh, dated
August 27 th, 1S24, it is affirmed, that the di¬
recting senate, in a general assembly of the sections
sitting at Moscow, promulgated, by an ukdz of the
9 th July, various additional articles (twenty-nine in
number) to the ordinance regulating the tribunal
of commerce at Odessa, which, by the advice of the
council of the empire, have been approved of by the
Emperor. *
The appointment of Count Vorontsof, as go¬
vernor-general of New Russia, in place of Count
Langeron, seems to be extremely judicious. The
latter, I believe, to be an excellent general; but
better fitted for the field of battle than for the ma¬
nagement of civil affairs. We received the most
* Vide Globe and Traveller, Sept. 18, 1824.
ANECDOTES.
193
polite attention from him while at Odessa, and
more frequent invitations to dinner than we could
accept of. I believe it was in his house that the
two following anecdotes were related to us.
A few years ago, when his Imperial Majesty
Alexander was on a visit to the south of Russia, he
stopped for a short time in one of the chief towns,
where resided a distinguished general as governor,
who is remarkable for absence of mind. The Em¬
peror having entered his cabinet with him, sat down
to sign some papers : the Governor walked about
the room ; but at length he walked out of" it, shut
the door, locked it, and left the house. He was
soon reminded of his mistake by one of the Sove¬
reign’s aides-de-camp, who followed him. Such
an action gave rise to no small degree of laughter
at the Governor’s expence, in which the Monarch,
who was no stranger to the eccentricity of his con¬
duct, heartily participated.
The same gentleman, when at Petersburgh, was
admitted to the Emperor’s cabinet, with some other
generals. He laid his cocked-hat upon a chair,
upon which was another hat. He spoke with his
Majesty on business; but while Alexander con¬
versed with another officer, he put his own hat
upon his head, and placed the other under his
arm. He again addressed his Majesty, who pre¬
served his gravity, then took leave, and departed.
When out of doors he attempted to put on his hat,
but his head was pre-occupied: he discovered his
VOL. i. o
194
DEPARTURE FROM ODESSA.
mistake: that which he took for his own hat and
carried under his arm, was the Emperor’s, while
his own was upon his head. It is said that the
Emperor was also highly amused by this adventure.
The important change which has just taken place
in the aspect of affairs between Turkey and Russia
is likely to be of great utility to Odessa. On the
29 th of August last the Emperor sent an ultaz to
the office of foreign affairs, to the following effect:
— “ Considering that the Ottoman Porte has con¬
sented to the evacuation of Wallachia and Molda¬
via, has adopted new measures respecting the trade
and navigation of the Bosphorus, and has remedied
the grievances and difficulties which opposed the
renewal of our diplomatic relations with it, we have,
for these reasons, and in the hope that we may suc¬
ceed, in concert with our allies, to put an end to
the sufferings which affect the East, resolved to ap¬
point our privy counsellor, Ribaupierre, to be our
ambassador extraordinary and minister plenipoten¬
tiary to the Ottoman Porte.”
Mr. Ribaupierre is a man of talents, has a ge¬
neral knowledge of diplomacy, and, having been
director of the bank at Petersburgh, is well acquainted
with the monied and mercantile interests of Rus¬
sia, and especially with the state > and w'ants of
Odessa, I should, therefore, anticipate a great
change to the advantage of the town, if his counsels
meet with due attention.
On the 4th of May we left Odessa with Count
COBLEY.
195
(le Wilt, tor Phedorovka, gladly embracing the op¬
portunity to examine the system of military colo¬
nisation in detail with the commander-in-chief in
the south of Russia. We repassed the barrier of
Kherson, by which we had entered, found the road
excessively bad through the suburb or village of
Persip, and all the way till we came to a liman ,
where we turned to the east; we then coasted the
sea, and found it much better. In the course of
the first station we traversed three shallow limans ;
we remarked but few houses, so that the sight of a
good village, called Sestchveka, or Alexandrovka,
which belonged to the Countess Pototskii, nine
versts from Adjulik, was an agreeable relief from
the dreary sameness of the surrounding scenery.
In our progress to the next station we travelled
along the sea-shore, crossing limans and ploughing
through deep sands, at a pace which allowed me
time to examine the plants by the way-side. About
half a verst from the post-house, the small mansion
of General Cobley, on the side of a lake, sur¬
rounded by a garden and trees, and with a church
adjoining to it upon a rising ground, had a lively
appearance amid the desert country. General
Cobley was long in the Russian service, but having
realised some property, he now passes his time
either here or at Odessa. We were told that he is
a singular character, and speaks many languages,
but not one of them well.
The adjoining station has different names, which
19G
OLBIA.
are apt to confound the stranger. It is called Teli-
gul, from the liman and river which runs from it;
Troitskoye (Trinity), from the church ; and more
frequently Kobli, from the General. If the traveller
should meditate a visit to Otchakof, so famous in the
history of the Turkish and Russian warfare, or to
Olbia, the former seat of a Milesian colony, he
must quit the post-road either at Teligul or at the
next station. For many years past, Olbia has been
a rich mine for the antiquarian, as the reader will
find by a perusal of the works of Pallas, Clarke,
Guthrie, Rcuilly, Castelnau, &c., in which are given
numerous descriptions and representations of the
medals and inscriptions which have been disco¬
vered there.
At the next station we left the post-road, and
arrived at Ivozianof where we found fresh horses
waiting for us, which quickly transported us to the
banks of the Boog. Although it was extremely dark
and very windy, and that the river here, including
lakes on each side, is nearly a verst in breadth, we
embarked, and after considerable apprehension, got
safe to the other side, and procured shelter in the
ferry-man’s house. By Count de Witt’s desire,
who had preceded us, Colonel Lasitch had sent his
carriage to await our arrival, which we made use
of and after seven versts’ drive, reached Phedor-
ovka at two o’clock in the morning, supped, and
went to bed. After a short repose, and an early
PI1ED0R0VKA.
197
breakfast, we proceeded to examine Phedorovka in
detail, but excessively regretted that it rained hea¬
vily. The houses of the colonists, the committee-
house, the Laneasterian school, &c. were all vi¬
sited. The precision of the boys in their lessons,
and their general healthy aspect, was a pleasing
sight. Though the road was extremely bad and
slippery, yet a regiment of the cavalry of the Boog
were exercised, and went through their evolu¬
tions with great celerity and dexterity. Another
regiment manoeuvred on foot, and afterwards
some picked men : next a number of cavalry; one
passed in single file at full gallop after the other,
doing the pike and sword exercise with surprising
precision. The mode of using the Kozak pike, or
lance, in making a charge and in pursuit while at
full gallop, they are extremely expert in ; but the
art they have of tossing the pike into the air, then
seizing and twirling it about, like the master
of a band with his staff in different directions,
astonished us. We were surprised on learning that
some of these soldiers were very lately mere pea¬
sants, and only knew how to handle the spade or
the plough.
As is customary still among many of the Rus¬
sians, Colonel Lasiteh did not partake of breakfast
at the same time, but directed his attention to his
guests. The officers all waited till we had finished
our repast before they began theirs 5 a ceremony
198
ARRIVAL AT NIKOLAEF.
which, however polite, we could willingly have dis¬
pensed with.
Horses having been previously sent forward to
Sabinoye, we bade adieu to our hospitable enter¬
tainers, and were again in motion. The road was
heavy, in consequence of the rain: it led through
extensive plains, many of which had a naked and
bleak appearance; but as we approached Nikolaef
the fields began more frequently to show cul¬
tivation, as well as some trees. The junction
of the Boog and the Ingul presents an extensive
and noble view, the interest of which was much
heightened by a nupiber of vessels upon these rivers.
We crossed the Ingul by a floating bridge, ascended
a hill, entered Nikolaef, and took up our quarters
in the private house of a Greek, which had been
prepared for our reception by the police, through
the kindness of Admiral Greig, and in which we
were well accommodated. It is a very common
practice in the south of Russia, and it also prevails
in the Kuban and in Georgia, for the police to
select lodgings for the convenience of strangers.
In these regions, instead of searching for inns,
few of which are good, the traveller, on his arrival
in a town, at once addresses himself to the master
of police, the commandant, or the Gorodnitchii, and
makes known his wants, which are generally at¬
tended to. The inhabitants who thus give up
their houses for the convenience of' travellers in
LODGING SELECTED BY THE POLICE. 199
rotation, are freed from some public burdens, and
moreover, they usually receive presents from the
inmates, at least from foreigners; but the Russians
often leave them without the smallest acknowledge-
ment.
The evening was passed in the most agreeable
and interesting manner with Admiral Greig, who
afforded us every facility and convenience for ex¬
amining NikolaefI Admiral Greig, the father of
our host, —as we may call him, for we almost lived
with him during our stay in Nikolaef,—was a native
of Scotland, and, 1 believe, Inverkeithing was his
place of birth. He is well known in the history of
Russia, and his merits have not been overlooked by
the author of the “ Life of Catharine II.” He
highly distinguished himself in the celebrated affair
of Tchesme; indeed the honour of the victory
chiefly belonged to him; and although Count
Alexii Orlof was honoured with the title of the
conqueror, yet neither he, nor even his .survivors,
to their praise be it told, ever forgot their deep
obligations to Admiral Greig. The Admiral also
commanded the Russian fleet in the gulph of Fin¬
land, in 178S, when a memorable contest took
place between it and the fleet of Sweden, the issue
of which, though bravely disputed, was to the ad¬
vantage of Russia. He died, loaded with honours
from the sovereigns of Russia, and an excellent
example to his countrymen, especially to naval
officers; for he had risen from the humblest walk
0 4
200
ADMIRAL GRE1G.
of life by his superior merit, talents, and steady
conduct.
The present Admiral Greig was born atCronstadt,
and, in compliment to his father, was ranked as a
midshipman at his birth. His earlier years were
passed in Russia, but he was sent to England for
his education. He afterwards went to the East
Indies as a volunteer in the Company’s service ;
and in the same capacity he served in the British
navy, so as to acquire a thorough knowledge of
navigation, and the duties of a naval officer. Hav¬
ing returned to Russia, after the victory gained by
his father in the Baltic, he was made a lieutenant
in I7S8, and soon afterwards was advanced to the
rank of captain. In 1805, he obtained the rank of
admiral, and was generally stationed at Cronstadt.
In the year 1816, he was appointed admiral-in¬
chief of the fleet of the Black Sea, and took up his
residence at Nikolaef, where he is likely to reside,
unless the report prove true, that he is to be made
minister of the naval department.
Though I am aware that critics will scarcely
allow the passing stranger to pay compliments, yet
it is difficult to avoid saying a few words in praise
of Admiral Greig. The complacency, the elegance,
and the dignity of his manners, together with his
general knowledge, his instructive conversation,
and his unostentatious hospitality, delighted us.
These qualities, united with true British feelings,
sterling virtues, Continental ease, fluency in lan-
DESCRIPTION OF NIKOLAEF.
201
guages, and a complete knowledge of maritime
affairs, peculiarly well fit him for the very important
station which he now holds.
The town of Nikolaef is situated upon a fine
plain, on the south side of the Ingul, near its con¬
flux with the Boog, under 30° 46' east longitude,
and 46° 58' north latitude, about 77 miles from
Odessa, 40 miles from Kherson, 877 miles from
Moscow, and 1362 from Petersburgh. It was
founded in the year 1791, but made but slow pro¬
gress, when Admiral Mordvinof took it under his
protection, and the admiralty of Kherson was trans¬
lated to it. Its progress since that period has
been irregular, sometimes rapid and sometimes
slow, but, no doubt, was greatly impeded by the
advancement of Odessa. Under the auspices of
Admiral Greig, it is now fast improving.
The town of Nikolaef, considering the number
of its buildings, is scattered over a vast territory.
All its streets are very wide and regular, and many
are planted with trees on both sides, but scarcely
any of them are paved. Almost all the houses are
built of stone; they are separated from each
other by trees and gardens; scarcely any of them
are of a large size ; many of them are elegant, but
very few can pretend to magnificence. The chief
objects which deserve notice in this town are,
the New Church built in the public square; the
Guildhall (Hotel de Ville ) with colonnades; the
Expeditsii, or Admiralty, for all the ports of the
202 THE DEPOT DE CARTES AND MUSEUM.
Euxine; theDocks; the Port; the Depot de Cartes;
the Custom-house; the Marine Barracks; the Naval
Hospital, of immense length ; the Pilot-school, un¬
der the direction of Colonel Hamilton, a Scotch¬
man ; a Lancasterian school; a school of artillery
for the navy, such, I believe, as is not used in
Britain; an observatory near Spasskii; and a reser¬
voir in town. Some of these edifices were not
finished when we were at Nikolaef, but now are all
in an excellent condition.
The Depot de Cartes is a small edifice, possessing
little external attraction, opposite Admiral Greig’s
house; it is also called the Depot of the Black Sea,
and the Museum ; and, in fact, it seems to combine
all the three characters. It has existed for a long
time ; but the museum was begun by the Marquis
de Traversey. Here we remarked a collection of
maps, charts, and naval instruments, as quadrants,
telescopes, compasses, &c. besides electric, galvanic,
and philosophical apparatus, and celestial and te-
restrial globes; one set for public sale, and another
belonging to the depot, for the use of the naval
officers. To this institution, likewise, belongs a
pretty extensive library, which contains many valu¬
able works. Numerous monuments of stone, with
Latin, but more frequently with Greek, inscriptions,
which were formerly kept in one of the churches
of Nikolaef, are now assembled together in the
museum. They, as also numerous medals, have
been copied and described by the late Mr. Afonin
THE MUSEUM. — THE DOCKS.
203
in Pallas’s Travels, by Clarke, by Reuilly, and by
the Marquis de Castelnau. Here are exhibited
models of the great naval hospital at Kherson ; of a
corps de cadets to be erected at Nikolaef; of differ¬
ent ships and of camels for their transport; of a
ship upon a camel, &c. &c. A pair of celestial
and terrestrial globes, as yet unfinished, of great
size, and a printing press, were also among the
objects of curiosity .
We remarked a collection of minerals, and a few
objects in different departments of natural history,
but they were of no great value. Large masses of
stone, said to have been thrown out of the Euxine,
as if from a volcano, near Sevastopol, excited
our curiosity. They were of different sizes, from
that of a man’s head to that of three or four feet
diameter, and were chiefly of a globular or oval
form, and of a pretty regular surface. They were
highly porous, and appeared to be formed of carbo¬
nate of lime, intermixed with shells.
A number of vessels lay in the harbour of the
Ingul. At the extensive docks we saw a frigate of
sixty-four guns, and another of forty-four guns, on
the stocks, and we went on board the elegant yacht
of the admiral-in-chief j ’in which he annually cruizes
with a part of the fleet of the Black Sea, in order
to train and exercise the officers and the seamen.
A number of gun-boats both with sails and with
numerous oars, adapted for the navigation of the
Danube in case of war with Turkey, were already
204
THE DOCKS.—SPASSKII.
completed, and the workmen were occupied in the
construction of others.
The timber for ship-building comes chiefly by
the Dneper to Kherson, and from thence to Niko-
laef. All the vessels constructed here are transported
empty, many versts down the river, to Glubokoye,
where they take in their cannon, tackle, &c. and
proceed from thence to the Black Sea upon camels,
on account of a sand-bank, near Kinbourn.
The admiral-in-chief of the Black Sea, and a
number of inferior .officers, have their permanent
residence at Nikolaef. The vice-admirals in active
service, and the other officers, are stationed partly
at Kherson and Odessa, but principally at Sevasto¬
pol in the Krimea. Admiral Greig’s house, though
by no means a palace, is very commodious. It con¬
sists of a single story, and is placed in one of the
principal streets upon the high bank of the Ingul,
on which is a boulevard, and where his flag is dis¬
played and signals made. He has a good garde:;
and nursery, which proves a great source of amuse¬
ment, as he has a taste for, and a considerable
knowledge of, botany. He has an excellent library,
and has fitted up a complete private observatory be¬
hind the house, with which there is a communication.
The Admiral’s country-house, called Spcisldi, is
delightfully situated on the Boog, here a noble
river, and in a charming spot. At a distance, it is
nearly concealed by the foliage of lofty and wide-
spreading trees; but on a nearer approach, it bursts
SPASSKII.
205
unexpectedly upon the view, The Admiral has
formed new plantations of trees, gardens, and vine¬
yards, and is making great improvements; the
walks are shady, and in some places very pictur¬
esque. Indeed, such a place, in such a dreary
country, seemed like enchantment, and notwith¬
standing a heavy shower of rain, we lingered to
admire it. On Sunday evening there is a pro¬
menade at Spasskii; and a naval band of music,
stationed in one of the ships in the Boog, cheers
the visitors. Both the house in the town and this
rural seat belong to the crown. Spasskii was once
the favourite residence of Prince Potyemkin, who
greatly embellished it. The angle between the
Ingul and the Boog, which it occupies, is formed
of a horizontal stratum of carbonate of lime, which,
like that at Odessa, is filled with shells. With
this kind of stone, the houses at Nikolaef are
chiefly constructed.
In returning towards the town, and not far from
the barrier, we turned aside to view a fountain of
excellent water, which is now conveyed to a re¬
servoir in Nikolaef. This fountain is invaluable,
since here, as at Odessa, no good water is to be
found in wells. Should the population of Nikolaef
be doubled, or even tripled, the reservoir will be
capable of supplying all its wants.
The fine healthy climate, the pure air, the mo¬
derate rents, the cheapness of provisions, and of
all articles of necessity, except fire-wood, added to
POPULATION.
200
the attractions of excellent society, have induced
a number of families to take up their residence
at Nikolaef.
By one account, Nikolaef contains 1147 houses,
and from 10,000 to 12,000 inhabitants; and by
Mr. Vsevolojskii’s, from 9000 to 10,000, almost
all sailors, with a few Jews. By the report of
the police-master, with whom we dined at Ad¬
miral Greig’s, in Nikolaef, in 1822, were 1100,
and in the suburbs 500, and in the environs 300
houses, and the population amounted to 6000 in¬
habitants, and from 4000 to 6000 sailors, their
number varying continually, according to circum¬
stances. The whole population includes but a few
foreigners, besides those who are in the naval or
military service.
On the 7th of May, having dined at an early
hour at Admiral Greig’s, and received some letters
from him to assist us on our journey, we took leave
of Nikolaef. The country between it and Kherson,
extending to about forty miles, presents much step
country with every now and then greater or
smaller elevations, and numerous tumuli, said to
be Tartar tombs. The environs of Nikolaef abound
in good pasture land, and are well cultivated.
The same remarks are applicable to the vicinity of
Kherson. We had intended to see the monument
of the distinguished Howard, which stands at the
distance of four or five versts from the barrier of
Kherson, and not far from the great road, on which
Howard’s monument.
207
the verst-posts are placed. Our coachman, hov/-
ever, deceived us, and took a shorter road, s<o
that when we passed the monument, we were five
versts distant from it. I mention this circumstance
for the advantage of future travellers. It being
nearly dark, the road bad, and the horses fatigued,
we proceeded straight to Kherson. We haul
been led to believe by our host, the Greek at-
Nikolaef, that we should find lodgings at a mer¬
chant’s house, with whose name he furnished us.
After much enquiry, we found the house, but no
lodging; so we were glad to pass the night in
some small uncomfortable rooms in the tavern of
a Jew ; for such is now the best accommodation to
be found at Kherson.
I got into a droshlci at break of day, and pro¬
ceeded toward the monument of Howard. I soon
arrived at the spot, but was somewhat at a loss
where to bestow my tribute of veneration to the
shade of this great man; for two similar py¬
ramidal monuments, formed of the limestone of
the country, rise from the plain, at the distance of
a few feet from each other. I walked round them
with excited curiosity, and then asked the coach¬
man, in Russ, which was Howard’s monument?
He replied, “These are the monuments of two
Englishmen, I know nothing more of them.” On
one side of the pedestal of the best built pyramid,
some kind hand had scratched on the plaster, the
words “ John Howard.” They were sufficient to
Howard’s monument.
‘208
fix my attention, and to recall every feeling of
veneration with which Englishmen must approach
this sacred tomb. On the opposite side of the
pedestal were obscurely traced MX IT PROPTER
ALIOS: meant, I suppose, to be mortuus propter
alios, which is true.
Howard’s monument is situated between the
country-seat of Count Pototskii and the villa of a
rich peasant. A representation of it is given in a
vignette at the head of the twenty-third chapter of
Clarke’s Travels. It stands in a hollow, surrounded
by gentle and bleak hills, which on the south and east
are scattered with tumuli. The ground on which
it is placed, formerly belonged to a French gen¬
tleman, Mr. Francois Dauphine*, but it is now the
property of a Greek, whose name is Mr. Gonos-
pulof, at least so we were informed; but Dr.
Clarke relates, that Admiral Priestman purchased
the spot by Howard’s dying request; and that
when the intelligence of the conclusion of the
bargain was made known to him, he showed great
satisfaction.
The reader may be impatient to know the
meaning of the other pyramid by the side of
Howard’s. As I learned, upon enquiry, it was
erected as a memorial of Capt. Newman, who ar¬
rived at Kherson with the late Mr. Aiton, and
* In the Life of Catherine II. it is said that Howard was in¬
terred on the estate at Dauphine, and the author likewise speaks
of the “ village of Dauphiny.” But Dauphine was the name of
a merchant.
Howard’s monument.
209
passed many years of his life in and near Kherson.
He was a person of great commercial spirit, and
was an acquaintance of Howard’s. After his death
a few years ago, his son-in-law (or brother-in-law),
Mr. Steiglitz, who had then a lease of the salt-
lakes in the Krimea, at his own expence erected
the pyramid in question ; but upon what plausible
grounds it was built so near and so similar to
Howard’s monument, I could not learn. All
I could obtain was, that Capt. Newman was like¬
wise an Englishman, and was worthy of such a
distinction.
We met with different individuals who knew
Howard intimately and who venerated his name.
Mr. A-, after praising him highly, added, detail
un liomme extremement actif, mats vif comme la
poudre. The same gentleman also spoke of Dr.
Clarke, with great respect.
The new monument erected to the memory of
Howard, which is near the church of the Assump¬
tion, and without the barrier of Kherson, is a sim¬
ple pyramid, with poplars around it, and is enclosed
by a high circular- wall, with an iron gate in front,
which was locked. I copied the inscription on
the pedestal, of which the following is a trans¬
lation : —
HOWARD
DIED ON THE 20TH JANUARY,
IN THE YEAR 1790,
IN THE 65TH YEAR OF HIS AGE.
P
VOL. I.
210 cause of Howard’s death.
We were told that his Imperial Majesty Alex¬
ander had granted the sum of 50,000 roubles for
the erection of a monument worthy of Howard,
and that this monument only cost 11,000. We
were also informed by Mr. Komstadius, the civil
governor of Kherson, that it was to be demolished,
and that a more worthy monument was to take its
place. That gentleman showed us a large bronze
medallion with Howard’s portrait, with sharp
features, prominent nose, and large wig, which is to
be placed in one side of the base of the future
monument. Around the medallion are these words
in Sclavonic : “ I was sick, and ye visited me ;
I was in prison, and ye came unto me.”
Dr. Clarke has furnished some interesting details
respecting Howard’s illness, death, and funeral. The
following information was derived from Mr. Koms¬
tadius. In the month of November 1789, Howard
was requested to visit Mademoiselle During, that
gentleman’s aunt, who lived on the banks of the
Dneper, at the distance of ten miles from Kherson.
In a light old-fashioned dress, in silk stockings,
and without a great coat, he set off on horseback.
The day was windy and cold, and he had a fall
by the way. He caught a cold, which was followed
by a fever, and which terminated in death.
CHAR V
KHERSON.-THE FORTRESS.— THE TOMB OF PRINCE POTYEM¬
KIN.-THE ADMIRALTY. — TIIE GREEK SUBURB.-THE
MILITARY SUBURB.-POPULATION.-DISADVANTAGES OF
KHERSON.— ITS PRESENT STATE-KABAKS.-DEPARTURE.
— THE INGULETS.-PLANTS. — TARTARS WITH BURCHAS.-
BERISLAF.-FERRIES OF THE DNEPER.—AMUSING SCENE.
-PASSAGE OF THE DNEPER.-KACHOVKA.-PEREKOP.—
ITS FORTRESS.-THE ARMENIAN BAZAR.-SALT LAKES.-
FOOLISH PRACTICE. — ANECDOTES OF A TARTAR.-GUSLA,
A TARTAR VILLAGE.-DYURMEN.- DEGENERACY OF THE
TARTARS. THE EMPEROR ALEXANDER. — SARABUZE.— SUL¬
TAN KATTI-GIIERRI RI M-GHERRI.- SYMPHEROPOLE.-ITS
FINE CATHEDRAL. — ITS PRESENT STATE.-ITS CLIMATE.
—A TARTAR COFFEE-HOUSE.— MAHOMEDAN WORSHIP.—MR.
STEVEN.— MADAME PALLAS.— LOCUSTS.— TARTAR FIRMAN.
— SABLA. — CLOTII-MANUFACTORY OF MR. BOROSDIN. — AR¬
RIVAL IN THE PALACE OF BAKTCHISERAI.
P
O
212
KHERSON.
Kherson is one of the principal towns in the
south of Russia, and has given its name to a
government. Castelnau lias remarked, that he is
ignorant of the cause which obtained its appella¬
tion from Prince Potyemkin ; for, if it was intended
to confuse history, the success has been perfect.
Many, on bearing its name, imagine that it occu¬
pies the site of the formerly flourishing republican
town, Chersonesus, whose foundations are still
evident in the Krimea, near Sevastopole. *
The geographical position of Kherson is under
31° 26' E. long, and 44° 37' N. lat. 913 miles from
Petersburgh, 1400 from Moscow, and 57 from the
Euxine. It lies upon the right bank of the liman,
or immense embouchure, of the Dneper, which is
here six versts broad, when its numerous shoals,
as is frequently the case, are covered with water ;
when the shoals are exposed, the real breadth of'
the river is not more than a verst. In the passage to
Aleshki by the Dneper, however, as the boats wind
through different channels, among numerous banks,
the distance is increased to fifteen versts. Admi¬
ral Greig, on his way to Sevastopole, generally
makes the passage here in two hours, while others
employ four, six, and even twelve hours, on
* As the Russians wished to obliterate all names of places in
use among the Krim Tartars, no doubt the new town was named
Kherson, that the ancient town might no longer be remembered.
What miserable finesse!
THE FORTRESS.
‘■213
account of the badness of the ferry-boats, and the
unskilfulness of those who manage them.
Kherson was founded in the year 1778, was aug¬
mented and fortified in 1780, and soon afterwards
became a flourishing town, and a port for vessels
from all countries of Europe, as is mentioned
already in the account of Odessa. It occupies a
large space ; and, though the greatest part of it is
regularly planned and built, it has nothing grand
or imposing in its aspect. It is divided into four
quarters, the Fortress, the Admiralty, the Greek
Suburb, and the Suburb for Sailors.
The Fortress is surrounded by fosses and ram¬
parts, and is an immense enclosure. It contains
the arsenal, a large and fine building5 the tribunals;
the houses of the military governor, the civil
governor, and the commandant; the prison, the
barracks; and other structures; all of which belong
to the crown. An elegant, though small, new
church, in the midst of an enclosed church-yard,
also occupies a place in this division. As we were
informed by a Sclavonic inscription in its pedi¬
ment, this temple was dedicated to the Saviour of
the human race by Catherine II., and was, perhaps,
intended to serve as a monument to the memory of
her potent favourite, whose ashes repose within its
walls.
Clarke, and some other authors, have alluded to
the life and death of Prince Potyemkin, in the se¬
verest terms of reprobation and abhorrence. After
p 3
214 THE TOMB OF I’RINCE POTYEMKIN.
his death, which happened on the way from Yassi,
his body, according to Clarke, was interred within
this church ; but, by the Emperor Paul’s command,
it was taken up and thrown into a hole, which was
purposely dug in the fosse, “ with as little cere¬
mony as a dead dogbut, as this proceeding took
place in the night, very few were informed of the
fate of the corps.* Another author informs us, in
a pathetic strain, that the remains of Prince Po¬
tyemkin “ were exposed to the birds of the air.”t
But, I have been assured, that, although Paul sent
an imperial mandate to take up and cast the body
of Potyemkin into the first hole which might be
found, it was never obeyed; that the pretence only
was made; and that it still reposes within the walls
of the church, though nobody can or will tell in
what place. The coffin was removed, and all inscrip¬
tions in memorial of Potyemkin, were obliterated $
but a new grave was dug, and covered over with
flags which had been purposely taken up ; and there
the mortal remains of this once great prince were
consigned to eternal oblivion. As it is no uncom¬
mon circumstance that even the active and vigilant
Alexander is deceived by his nobles and his offi¬
cers, we can easily believe this account of disregard
to Paul’s orders.
From unlooked-for events, countries and dis-
* Clarke’s Travels, p. 602.
t Northern Summer, by John Carr, p. 339.
THE ADMIRALTY.
215
tricts, scarcely known or spoken of, acquire a cele¬
brity to which otherwise they are not entitled j
and, among these, must be reckoned Kherson.
Fifty years ago, what traveller, of the few who
traversed the desert shores of the Black Sea,
would have paused to regard the site of modern
Kherson ? At present the existence of this town;
the fact that it was the meeting-place of Catharine
II. and the Emperor Joseph ; the death of Howard
within its walls, and the adjoining monuments
erected to his memory ; and the sepulchre of Po¬
tyemkin, all recal so many associations with the
events of times gone by, that a strong interest is
likely to be excited in the breast of all travellers.
In the second quarter of the town, the Admi¬
ralty, which serves as a citadel to the fortress, are
the different docks for constructing vessels of war,
and merchant vessels, now scarcely worth notice.
It is only during the spring-flood of the Dneper
that vessels can be transported from hence upon
camels, and that only when there is a large flood.
This had not been the case in 1822, so that some
vessels would remain till 1823, or the first of the suc¬
ceeding years that admits of their departure. A
fine basin, cut out of the limestone-rock, exposes
an extensive surface for the examination of the mi¬
neralogist. The stratum is the same as at Odessa
and Nikolaef, and of the same texture. Numerous
magazines and store-houses are the chief edifices of
this division.
p 4i
216 GREEK SUBURB. — MILITARY SUBURB.
The Greek Suburb is inhabited by the burgesses,
and contains a Greek, a Roman Catholic, and a
Russo-Greek church, a great market, and some
establishments called inns, which deserve not even
the name of taverns. They are low tippling houses,
and have billiard-tables, which are chiefly em¬
ployed by the Jews, of whom there are many
here $ and most of them, at least apparently, were
in a miserable state.
The Military Suburb, which would have been
better named the Naval Suburb, only contains three
streets and a single church; the houses within it are
mean, and are mostly inhabited by sailors and
artisans.
After the foundation of Odessa, Kherson fell
gradually into a state of decline; but, of.late, its
spirit seems somewhat renovated. With respect to
its population ; in 1813, Vsevolojskii stated it nearly
at 10,000 souls; and, by Castelnau, in 1820, it is
made to amount to 30,000, which must be a great
exaggeration, though countenanced by the report of
one gentleman with whom we had a conversation.
No diminution of population had taken place since
1820, till the period of our visit, when the civil go¬
vernor informed us, that Kherson contained 3600
houses, and that the general population, including
the sailors, carpenters, &c. at the different works
of the crown, amounted to about 14,000 souls.
Before entering the barrier of Kherson, the Naval
DISADVANTAGES OF KHERSON. ZYi
Hospital was seen on the right, at a distance from
all other edifices, and in an open healthy situation.
It is only one story in height, but is of immense ex¬
tent. I regretted extremely that the arrangements
of our party prevented me from examining it in
detail. A rope-work, nearly half a mile in length,
and about fifty windmills, all near the barrier,
presented a curious appearance.
In the account of Odessa, I have spoken of
the objections to Kherson, as a commercial and
naval port, and for dock-yards; all of which
ought to have been foreseen, and to have pre¬
vented the foundation of a town in so improper a
situation. By the Dneper all the timber for ship¬
building arrives at Kherson, both for its own sup¬
ply, and that of Nikolaef and Odessa. Much of
the produce of the interior is also brought hither,
and is taken to the last-mentioned town by lighters.
Hence, though Kherson is never likely to be a
naval or a commercial port, from its situation on
the Dneper, it may long remain an emporium for
the equipment and armament of the fleet of the
Black Sea, and a depot for the produce of the
• neighbouring governments of the empire; and
even this secondary place, it may maintain, must
be extremely desirable to those who have embarked
their capital in property in this town.
Those who are anxious to know the particulars re¬
specting the former flourishing commerce of Kher-
218 PRESENT STATE OF KHERSON.-KAliAKS.
son, may consult Castelnau’s work on New Russia.*
Like that author, we were struck by “ V air mome
et triste des habitans, et le manque d’activite, qiCon
trouve partout, execute sur le port et les chan-
tiers.” Few carriages are to be seen here ; but the
drivers, as elsewhere in Russia, make merry in
the kabaks or taverns, pour forth their unharmo-
nious songs, and engage in merry disquisitions.
The interior of a kabak is well represented in the
vignette to this chapter.
Admiral Greig had given us a letter to Vice-
Admiral Bitchenskii, who is stationed permanently
at Kherson, and who, in consequence, would have
afforded every facility for the passage of the
Dneper to Aleshki, but as the day was very windy,
we preferred crossing that river at Berislaf. We
had a rapid drive to the post-station Ingulets,
so named from the river near whose banks it
stands. Having changed horses, we soon entered
that river, and made our way over a very rough,
stony road, and through deep water, to a kind
of mole, where we embarked in a very bad ferry¬
boat, and reached the opposite bank without ac¬
cident. The Ingulets, though its name is the di¬
minutive of the Ingul of which we have already
spoken, is a fine river at this season of the year,
and is above half a mile in breadth. On both its
sides, the horizontal stratum of lime-stone, of a
* Vol. ii. p. 236., and vol. iii. p. 133.
THE INGULETS.-PLANTS.
219
yellow colour, is completely exposed, and of course
is favourable for the examination of the geologist.
The specimens which were detached, and the
rock in situ, exhibited beautiful aggregates of shells.
This spot also affords much pleasure to the botan¬
ist; for the banks of the Ingulets are covered
by a profusion of wild plants, which bloom and
fade unnoticed by the inhabitants of the surround¬
ing dreary regions. * We pushed on to Berislaf
through extensive plains, which produced but poor
herbage, though the soil appeared to be rich, and
was covered with such quantities of elegant thistles
(Carduus elegans ), and other plants, that one was
ready to suspect that they had been sown. On
the steps around us, the abundance of feather¬
grass t astonished us. It explained a custom, com¬
mon among the Russian peasants and carriers, of
decorating loaded waggons, carts, and horses, with
numerous bunches of this grass, as it is the cus¬
tom to do, on the king’s birth-day, with branches
of trees and flowers in Britain. Feather-grass seems
to delight in the plains; for, after our departure
from Moscow, throughout New Russia, the Kuban,
and even Georgia, we saw it copiously scattered
* On the steps before reaching Odessa, in its neighbourhood,
and on the road leading from thence to the Ingulets, among
many other plants I picked up Scutellaria orientalis, Polygo¬
num major, Campanula betonicifolia, Saxifraga cotyledon, Vicia
polyphilla, Asclepias nigra, Dracocephalum ruyschiana, Hedy-
sarura petraeum, and Minuartia montana.
f Stipa pennata and Stipa capellata.
220 TARTARS WITH BURCHAS.
over the steps, whether they were fertile or bar¬
ren. The dreary wilds of Kherson were enli¬
vened by some pleasant views of the banks of the
Ingulets, and afterwards of those of the Dneper or
Borysth.enes, which are infinitely more picturesque.
We had chiefly met Kozaks on this day’s journey ;
but two Tartars, on horseback, the one wearing
a white, the other a black, burcha, excited our
surprise by their novel and grotesque appearance.
The word burcha admits of no other translation
than that of felt-mantle. It is nearly half an inch
thick, and is often covered with long hair, for the
most part of a black or brown colour. It forms
an inseparable part of the Tartar’s and the moun¬
taineer’s travelling appareil, every where in the
Krimea, the Caucasus, and in Georgia; and, I
believe, it is likewise used in Persia. It is a
most convenient article for travelling on horse¬
back, as we afterwards fully learnt by expe¬
rience ; and though heavy, it is useful in all
kinds of weather. The rays of a strong me¬
ridian sun can scarcely penetrate it, it being
a bad conductor of caloric, so that it supplies
a cool shade for the body ; heavy rain runs off it
and rarely reaches the skin; in cold weather it
keeps the person warm; and, lastly, it frequently
supplies the place of a bed, it being either laid on
the bare floor, or over a quantity of straw or hay.
No traveller should be without a burcha , even in the
Krimea, but especially in the marshes of the Kuban,
BERISLAF.-FERRIES OF TIIE DNEPER. 221
and under the variable climate of Georgia ; in all
of which territories intermittent fevers are exces¬
sively common, and sometimes attack strangers. *
Berislaf, or Berislavl, was formerly named Mil-
letopole. The ancient Russians changed this into
Belaya-Veja, and the Tartars into Kizi-Kermen.
Its foundation is attributed to the Milesians. It is
built on the elevated and sloping bank of the Dne-
per, and formerly belonged to the Zaporogian
Kozaks. It is surrounded by a good deal of cul¬
tivated land, thickly studded with windmills. It
is a shabby and miserable town, the population
of which was said to be 2400 souls. It was under¬
going a thorough repair when we passed through
it, and as it is in the Government of Kherson, is
most likely converted into a military colony. The
view of the Dn eper and its islands, on the approach
to Berislaf, is extensive and noble. This town is
chiefly remarkable on account of its being one of
the passages of the Dneper, by which corn is
transported into the Krimea, and salt brought back
in telegas or carts drawn by oxen, immense cara¬
vans of which are continually showing themselves
in this part of the country. There is also ano¬
ther ferry or passage across the Dneper at Niko-
pole, 160 versts higher up. Both here and at Be¬
rislaf, when the spring-flood has subsided, floating
* In one of Clarke’s plates a Nogai-Tartar is covered with a
burcha.
222
AMUSING SCENE.
bridges are established, which are drawn to the
sides before the freezing of that river.
By a steep descent, we reached the majestic
Dneper, and had the mortification to see all the
large ferry-boats covered with teUgas loaded
with corn, which had been detained there three
days, on account of the danger of attempting a
passage during high winds, which luckily for us,
had just been succeeded by a calm. While await¬
ing the return of a small ferry-boat, we amused
ourselves by persuading a few soldiers, whom we
found stationed here as a guard, to run races for
prizes on the steep brow of the hill. Their as¬
sistance was afterwards readily given for the em¬
barkation of the carriages, which we found no
easy task. We here witnessed a very amusing
occurrence between the ferry-man, an under¬
officer, and some soldiers who had arrived before us
on the banks of the Dneper. We were desirous of
crossing immediately, and the boatmen would
readily have complied with our wish, but the un¬
der-officer pleaded his right to precedence, with the
high tone which is characteristic of all the ranks
of the Russian army; and neither entreaties nor
contempt affected him. He “ served his Imperial
Majesty—the horses were the Emperor’s,” and
brandishing his cane in the face of the boatmen, he
gave his commands, and forced compliance. We
enjoyed ourselves also in regarding one of these
PASSAGE OF THE DNEPER. — KACHOVKA. 223
scenes of uproar and confusion, which are common
in Russia. For the embarkation of the horses things
were badly arranged: planks were laid between
the shore and the high sides of the barges by
which they were to ascend; some were blind¬
folded and led ; some were pulled by ropes, by the
bridle, or by the tail, and pushed on board;
while not a few, after having advanced halfway,
began to prance, and fell into the river.
Though the post-station was at Berislaf, by
giving a gratification, the drivers had been induced
to carry us to the Dneper. When fairly embarked,
we betook ourselves to the carriages, as it was
cold and dark. We made the first half of the pas¬
sage by the laborious efforts of four men at the
oars, but a favourable breeze springing up, the sails
were spread, and we soon reached the opposite
bank of the river. As the ferry winds among
shoals and reeds, its breadth is reckoned five versts,
though, very probably, at this season of the year it
is not more than three in a direct line. We were
exactly two hours upon the water. We found that
the post-house was atKachovka, half a verst from the
place where we landed; on reaching which, after
ascending a long hill, we were most agreeably sur¬
prised to find a good inn, where least of all we ex¬
pected it. By giving a trifle to the smotritel, we
persuaded him to send horses to fetch the carriages
to the inn ; and by the time we had dined, he had
arranged every thing for our departure.
224
PEREKOP. — ITS FORTRESS.
On the 9th May, by three o’clock in the morning,
we were in motion, and had a fine and rapid drive,
changing horses at the stations indicated in the
itinerary, through dreary plains all the way to
Perekop, without remarking a single object deserv¬
ing of notice.
The isthmus and fortress of Perekop once at¬
tracted the attention of the world; but, since the
seizure of the Krimea by Russia, and the consequent
cessation of war in the adjoining regions, they are
sunk into insignificance. They will, however,
always excite a lively interest in the mind of the
passing traveller, who reasons or speculates upon
the fate of nations. In the event of a revolution,
which sooner or later is likely to overthrow the ex¬
tensive and despotic government of the Russian
empire, and to dismember it into a number of
smaller states, the Krimea, no doubt, will be early
secured by one party, whether they be Tartars,
Turks, Greeks, or even Russians; and in case the
powers of Europe should ever find it necessary to
check, or to subdue, the haughty, ambitious, and
dictatorial policy of the Russian cabinet, that pen¬
insula may become of infinite importance, by the
facilities which it affords for the landing of troops,
or of military stores, ammunition, and arms. Hence
we may reasonably conjecture, that the Krimea, at
some future epoch, will regain its ancient glory, and
Perekop and its line of fortification become the seat
of murderous warfare. In such a case, the tri-
PEREKOP.
225
umphant fleet of Great Britain, or perhaps that of
the Greeks, may ride along the coasts of the Euxine
and of the Palus Maeotis, after that of Russia has
been captured or burned.
For a particular description of the isthmus and
fortifications of Perekop, I refer the reader to
Strabo, Pallas, Clarke, and Castelnau, who will find
its different appellations, Tapliros, Tafre, of the
Greeks, and Or-Kapi of the Tartars, completely
elucidated in their works. I shall confine my re¬
marks to its present condition.
Perekop is situated upon a plain, and upon the
principal road of ingress and egress between Russia
and the Krimea; for the passage in summer from
Yenxtche, by the strait of the Sivash and a sandy
tongue of land seventy-three miles in length, to
Arabat, is only used by the carts of the peasants.
It lies 1280 versts distant from Moscow, and
though the chief toxvn of a district, it has more the
appearance of a village. It consists of two rows
of houses, which line the sides of the great
road, which is here of enormous breadth. With
the exception of a few white-washed houses, the
rest are in gloomy harmony with the sterile naked
regions. According to the latest statistical ac¬
count, this district town only contains thirty-eight
houses , and, of course, its population is trifling. It
derives its chief present importance from being the
residence of the Commission charged with the ad-
VOL. i. Q
l'EREKOP.-ITS FORTRESS.
22b
ministration of the Salt-Lakes of the Krimea. It is
an immense thoroughfare during summer, as may
be easily conceived from the fact, that 20,000 cart¬
loads of salt annually leave its gates, for the supply
of the south of Russia.
The inhabitants of Perekop are composed of
Russians, Greeks, Armenians, and Tartars; to
which was added, at the time of our visit, an en¬
campment of Bohemians, or Tsiganii, as they are
called throughout Russia, or Gipsies, as we name
them ; the males of whom were mending pots and
pans in the open air, while their wives and children
were sheltered under tents. They are greatly en¬
couraged by the Tartars.
The immense ditches, ramparts, and walls of the
Fortress of Perekop, have been lately repaired. Hav¬
ing entered its grand gates, a sentinel cried out,
“ Back, back” I replied, “ Is there no officer here?”
Pointing his bayonet at us, at a short distance, he
answered, “ No! back , back.” At this moment
some officers, who were walking in the interior,
came into view ; and, under such circumstances, we
did not hesitate to hail them. The officer on duty
immediately approached, was very polite, scolded
the soldier, accompanied us round the ramparts,
and answered all our enquiries. A ruined mosque,
with a Tartar inscription, now made a powder ma¬
gazine ; a barrack, which likewise served as a
jail, in a state of great filth ; and the fortifica-
THE ARMENIAN BAZAli.
227
tions, were the objects which claimed our chief
attention. *
At the distance of four versts from Perekop we
entered the Armianskoi Bazar, or the Bazar of the
Armenians, which has been described by some
as formed of a single street: but the fact is, that
it is a very large village, and consists of numerous
narrow lanes, amidst which arise mosques with
wooden minarets, a Greek temple, and a Russo-
Greek church ; for the worship of the Tartars, Ar¬
menians, and Russians who compose its population.
The houses are built of stone or of turf plastered
over, have a very mean appearance, and are enclosed
by walls which form the boundaries of the streets.
The village had every where the appearance of
extreme dirt. The conduct of its inhabitants,
warned us that we had got among a new people
in a new country. As we walked through the
lanes, the moment we were espied, men, women,
and children withdrew into their courts, and shut
their gates. At length, some of the males ventured
to speak with us, but the females could only be
seen by suddenly entering some path where the
inhabitants were not aware of our approach; but
as their general features, manners, and tattered,
slovenly, and even indecorous dress, disgusted us,
we were not tempted to improve our acquaintance
with them.
* The reader will find a view of the fortress and gates of
Perekop, Pallas’s Travels.
Q 2
228
SALT-LAKES.
Besides the bazars, or shops, along the road,
there is likewise an Eastern bazar, or square planted
with trees and surrounded by small shops, in
which are disposed for sale, carts, wheels, axle-
trees, ropes, tar, whips, and every thing necessary
for carters, as well as all kinds of provisions, tea,
sugar, coffee, wines, jellies, confections, &c., which
proves,that the various inhabitants of this village
and neighbourhood are acquainted with the lux¬
uries of life ; though, I should suppose, the greatest
share of some of these articles is disposed of to
travellers.
On the post-road we remarked handsome stone
columns indicating the versts, which were placed
there when Catharine II. made her memorable
visit to the Krimea, in 1787* They formed part of
the means which were invented by the then fa¬
vourite, Prince Potyemkin, to induce the empress
to believe, that even while treading dreary wilds
and wastes, she saw a fertile, populous, flourishing,
and happy country. *
We purposely made a detour to the Salt-Lakes,
which are distant about twelve miles from Perekop,
and have different names, as, Krdsnoyc Ozero, Red
Lake; Stdroyd Ozero, Old Lake, &c. As the
water of these lakes was not sufficiently evaporated,
we had not the opportunity of seeing them covered
with their abundant harvest of salt. They are
* Vide Character of the Russians, p. xciii.
SALT-LAKES.
229
described at length by Pallas, and noticed by
Castelnan. The last-named writer has given a
representation of them, and of the loading of the
carts with their saline products. The water of
Stdroye Ozero, saturated with salt, was extremely
strong and pungent to the tongue. Its banks and
neighbourhood were absolutely covered with Pe-
gamem Harmala and Salsola ericoides, like a regular
crop. The pristqf, or superintending officer of
this lake, was extremely affable and communica¬
tive, asked us to enter his house, and had coffee
served up immediately. He is a Malo-Russian,
and was quite delighted at the sight of strangers
in so dull a spot, surrounded, as he was, by Tartars.
Though a poor man, he was affronted when I pri¬
vately put a ten-rouble note into his hand; he
rejected it with disdain, and would not even allow
his child to accept of it; a circumstance whose pa¬
rallel had not before occurred during our journey.
At inns, post-houses, police-offices, lodgings, whe¬
ther among Russians, Greeks, or Jews, rapacity, ex¬
tortion, and roguery, were generally the order of
the day.
The Salt-Lakes of the Krimea have been known
from time immemorial, and this peninsula “ was
the emporium” of salt “ in the earliest periods of
history.” Hence the value of these lakes to the
possessors of the Krimea, as a source of revenue, and
for the supply of one of the most necessary commo¬
dities of human life. Hence also, no doubt, one of
Q S
SALT-LAKES.
2(10
the causes which rendered the Taurida an object
of ambition to Russia; since, notwithstanding the
immense annual supplies which are now furnished
from the peninsula, a considerable importation of
foreign salt takes place every season at the sea-ports
of the Baltic.
Since the seizure of the Krimea, its Salt-Lakes
have sometimes been kept by the crown, and
sometimes farmed out. In the year 1799, Perets
and Steiglets farmed them for four years, during
which seventy poods of salt were sold on the spot,
for ten roubles; but it must be remembered that it
was, and still is, sold in an impure state.
Castelnau says, that, in former years, by selling
the salt upon the spot at twelve kopeeks per pood,
—not much more than a penny at present,—the
Salt-Lakes produced a revenue of 6.50,000 roubles;
consequently 5,416,666.1 poods must have been
disposed of: and in a note he adds, “en 1815, la
ferine a rendu 1,200,000 roubles” The price of
salt was afterwards raised to forty kopeeks; and
in 1821 it was sold at ninety kopeeks per pood;
of which the people, employed to take it from the
lakes, received from seven to ten kopeeks, as the
reward of their labour. The demand for salt in
1821 was small, so that a less quantity than usual
was made. We were informed, that from the
Slaroye Ozero alone could be taken annually
6,000,000, 8,000,000, or 10,000,000 poods of salt;
and that there was no doubt, if the crown ordered
it, even 20,000,000 poods might be obtained.
FOOLISH PRACTICE.
g>S]
Well may the united supply of all the lakes of the
Kritnea be regarded as inexhaustible, if it be true,
that the more their solid contents are removed, the
greater is the increase.
Some strange things are done, and some extraor¬
dinary measures are adopted, by the Russians, with
all the progress they have made in civilisation,
and the regularity and order which they have
established' in many departments of the public
service, where each person of rank, by regular
gradation, becomes a tyrant or a despot, when it
pleases him, over his inferiors. I shall give an in¬
stance in illustration of this observation. From
the commissioner at Perekop a printed order must
be received, so as to procure any given quantity of
salt at the lakes. The salt being obtained, the pur¬
chaser must return to Perekop with his order and
his purchase, when he pays the money. This ar¬
rangement suits those well enough who enter the
Krimea from the north, and whose road, on their
return, leads through Perekop; but it is excessively
inconvenient for the inhabitants of the Krimea,
south of the lakes. Ozman, a Tartar whom we
met, resides six versts from Stdroye Ozero, and to
the south-east; and when he wants to purchase
salt, instead of coming here, taking his load and
departing, he is obliged to go to Perekop for the
printed order, and, having loaded his oxen to drive
them to that town; then, and not till then, he is at
liberty to return home by the nearest way he can
q 4
Q32
ANECDOTES OF A TARTAR.
find. So that instead of the short distance of
twelve versts, he has to make a long journey.
We were not sorry that Ozman, the only Tartar
whom we had met since leaving the Armianskoi
Bazar, had been detained here; especially as he
spoke a little Ituss. He was a good specimen of his
countrymen: tall, well-built, witli an open, pleasing,
and interesting countenance, and full of good-
humour. We begged the officer to ask him to his
house. In a long conversation he spoke of Abra¬
ham, Isaac, and Jesus Christ, as well as of Mahomed
(whom he called Mam-bed), as great prophets, and
with great reverence ; and he seemed to have some
just ideas of the Divine Being and his attributes.
When we alluded to rewards and punishments, he
said, “ My body may be thrown to the dogs, pro¬
vided my soul goes to the houris .” He was a mar¬
ried man, and informed us that, though a Tartar
was permitted to have four wives, it was not lawful
to sleep with more than one of them the same night.
He also stated that he was allowed to shave
his beard till he had attained forty years of age;
but that after that, such a practice was absolutely
condemned. He concluded emphatically in these
words, “For my part, rather would I allow my
throat to be cut than my beard to be shaved.” We
remarked that the heads of the Tartars were <rene-
rally shaved, even of the youths; that some had
them but partially shaved; and that many were
quite bald, except a tuft of hair upon the crown. A
GUZLA, A TARTAR VILLAGE.
233
Russian who was present said, he supposed this
tuft was left by the Tartars that Mahomed might
seize them, and pull them to Paradise, after death.
To which Ozman, with great vehemence, replied,
“ You Russians let your hair grow thick and long,
that your prophet may have a good hold in drag¬
ging you to heaven.”
Adjoining to Staroye Ozero is the village of
Guzla, which contains seventy houses or huts, and
whose inmates are employed at the lakes in sum¬
mer. This was the first real Tartar village we had
seen, and we found that the same system was pur¬
sued as at Armianskoi Bazar men, women, and
children fled from our sight, as if we had been a pes¬
tilence. The pristaf’s influence, however, soon pre¬
vailed, and one of the males allowed us to enter his
dwelling. A liberal douceur on leaving its precincts
produced a marvellous effect; the Tartars sur¬
rounded us, and every one more anxious than his
neighbour made signs for us to accompany him to
his house. We embraced so favourable an oppor¬
tunity; went into many of their dwellings; and saw
the females, married and unmarried, young and old.
In one of the best of their houses, a small, low, round
table was covered with a table-cloth, and bread
and sour cream were placed upon it, while a range
of cushions upon the floor surrounded it. Like
the Tartars, we sat down cross-legged upon these
cushions, and partook of the repast, but very
sparingly, as neither the bread nor the cream was
DYIJRMEN.
234
much to our taste. When we left this house the
whole male population of the village, including a
number of hoys, was at our heels. I proposed to
make them run races, and the young Tartars
showed much eagerness whilst running, and much
agility in their motions. Having rewarded them
with prizes, given a five-rouble note to our
pleasant companion Ozman, and distributed a few
roubles to the other Tartars, we got into the car¬
riages, and, throwing a quantity of small silver
coins into the air, for which there was an amusing
scramble, with the benedictions of our new ac¬
quaintances, we left Staroye Ozero.
Our route lay through arid steps, with few devia¬
tions from a right line; and we arrived at Dyurmen
late in the evening, dined, and reposed till four
o’clock in the morning of the following day, and
reached Sarabuze for breakfast. The road, dreary as
possible, is continued over a surface nearly level.
After we left Aibar, the Tchatir-Dagh, the highest
mountain in the Krimea, burst upon the view;
and soon afterwards, the whole chain of the
mountains of this peninsula* enlivened the pros¬
pect, and had an animating effect upon our spirits.
We met a troop of gipsies, travelling in basket-
carts, each drawn by two small horses. We ex¬
amined some enormously deep wells in the plains;
and we remarked immense tracts covered with
* Dr Clarke has given a view of this scene.
DEGENERACY OF THE TARTARS.
Peganum Harmala, Carduiis ciliatus, and Salvia
Aastriaca. Besides the villages at the post-stations,
enumerated in the itinerary in the Appendix, we
remarked but a few others on the whole line of road
from Perekop to Sympheropole, which certainly
gave us the idea, that the level part of the Krimea
was in a state of great desolation ; but, according
to Castelnau, and an excellent statistical map of the
Krimea, we judged by a very fallacious criterion.
For, “ at the short distance of live or six versts,
on all sides, there are rich villages inhabited by men
more happy than their apathy and carelessness
merit.” — “ The Tartar loves retirement; he
wishes to be isolated, and regards the visit of the
stranger as an intrusion on his repose, on his pro¬
perty, and on his happiness.” But it must ever
be kept in remembrance, that the Tartars of the
present generation differ considerably from their
ancestors, and that forty years of subjection, de¬
pendence, and oppression, have operated in dimi¬
nishing, if not in eradicating, all the highest feel¬
ings and principles of savage life, without having
supplanted them by the benign influence of know¬
ledge, civilisation, or religion. Since the reign
of Alexander, it must, at the same time, be
candidly admitted, that many measures have been
concerted so as to make the burden of despotism
less and less sensible to his Krimean subjects;
and, as we shall see by and by, to educate and
illuminate their minds. Indeed, Alexander; is not
2S6 THE EMPEROR ALEXANDER.
to be blamed, but to be praised for his administra¬
tion of Russia, generally speaking; for, although
he wisely delays giving freedom to his subjects,
leaves that measure to his successors, or looks for¬
ward to the time when the Russians themselves
shall declare their independence ; he steadily pur¬
sues the system of encouraging and extending the
means of education, of literature, and of religion,
in the remotest corners of his vast territories. If
he has been negligent in any great concern of the
empire, it has assuredly been that of the admini¬
stration of justice in the tribunals; but, at the
present moment, we have reason to believe, that
this subject engages his most earnest attention.
Should he undertake its reformation and purifica¬
tion, he will find it a Herculean undertaking,
but one worthy of a monarch’s labours, of a
tsar’s ambition, and of an emperor’s fame. Truly
the Russians have no just cause to be discon¬
tented with their Sovereign, who has ever shown the
utmost wish to raise their character, and to elevate
them in the rank of nations. It is the foreign policy
of Alexander that has turned thousands of voices
against him, which, but a few years ago, hailed
him with esteem and reverence.
As we reached Sarabuze, by a gentle descent,
we were charmed with the change of scenery. Be¬
hind us was a monotonous plain of hundreds of
miles in extent; before us rose, in majestic gran¬
deur, an extensive range of mountains, while the
SARA11UZE. '237
intervening country was varied by hills, and woods,
and villages, and intersected by streams.
We stopped at a small but excellent inn at Sara-
buze, in which every thing bore the aspect of order
and cleanliness. To a Tartar, who came to the
door, with a miserable horse, we gave a grivnile , a
small silver coin, which he put into his bosom. I
told him, in lluss, that he would lose it. He
replied, in his own language, as was interpreted
by his signs, while he touched one of his fore¬
teeth, “ I shall sooner lose thisan answer which
recalled to mind the Oriental descent of the Tar¬
tars.
After we left Sarabuze, we descended a gentle
declivity at the gallop; remarked numerous villas
surrounded by trees and gardens and tracts of cul¬
tivated land; passed a burying-ground filled with
the sepulchral monuments of the Tartars; and
reached Sympheropole. We drove to one inn,
which was under repair; then to another, which
was filled by billiard-rooms, and various parties;
and, while we were about to proceed to a third,
an old acquaintance of mine, Sultan Katti-Gherri
Krim-Gherri, unexpectedly came into view, most
kindly invited us to take up our quarters at his
house, and would not admit any excuse for non-
compliance. The Sultan, a well-known character in
Great Britain, is a descendant of the Tartar khans,
and was born among the mountains of the Cau¬
casus. Having become acquainted with the Scotch
238 SULTAN KATTI-GHERRI KR1M-GHERRI.
missionaries at Karass, and shown a disposition to
embrace the Christian religion and to become use¬
ful in the conversion of his Mahomedan brethren,
be was removed to Petersburg!], and resided with
Dr. Paterson, where I was introduced to him.
He then proceeded to the university of Edinburgh,'
and there resided for some years for the purpose of
studying. He accompanied Mr. Lewis Way in
his journey through Russia and the Krimea, in
1817-1818 ; and, when at Moscow, he was fre¬
quently at my house.
The Sultana left father and mother, five brothers,
and as many sisters, in Edinburgh, her native
town, for the sake of the Sultan, and consented to
reside in the Krimea •, but, by so doing, she incurred
her father’s invincible displeasure, which he carried
so far as to disinherit her; and he even died with¬
out pardoning this strong proof of unequivocal love.
Many of the Sultana’s friends considered her
attachment as very romantic — but, perhaps, with
less room than they imagined. For, it must not be
forgotten, that previous to his marriage, the Sultan
had not only become a Christian, but was almost
transformed into a Briton, and spoke English
with as much fluency as his native tongue. At
Sympheropole his house was arranged in the
English style ; almost every portable article within
it was of British manufacture, and British customs
and manners alone prevailed. Indeed, the Sul¬
tan’s education, religion, principles, conduct, and
SY31PHER0P0LE.
239
general mode of thinking, were so truly British,
that I often forgot myself) and criticised, and even
abused, the Tartars, as if I had been conversing
with a countryman. He has long been in connec¬
tion with the societies of Great Britain for the dis¬
semination of religious knowledge, and he received
the education of a missionary. He wishes to be
useful in the conversion of the Krim Tartars to
the Christian religion ; and, if encouraged by the
British societies, he will establish an extensive school
for the education of the Tartar youths. At the
time of our visit, he was arranging a small school
so as to commence his plan. He also intended, by
his exhortations, to enlighten his brethren ; and, in
order to encourage them to come to him, he dis¬
tributed small sums of money to the poor, which,
no doubt, were as much valued as his kind lessons.
Being now a Russian subject, and having ne¬
cessarily relinquished the property in the Cauca¬
sus to which he was heir, the Emperor Alex¬
ander has lately bestowed upon him a pension of
six thousand roubles, which, with the addition of the
small income of the Sultana, enables him to live
comfortably. His wife seemed a very modest
amiable person, and was highly prized by her hus¬
band, by whom she had one daughter at the time
of our visit, and I believe now has two or three
more children.
Sympheropole received its appellation from the
Greeks. The Tartars called, and still call it,
240
SYMPHEROPOLE.
Ak-Metchet, which signifies white mosque, because
Ibrahim Bey, who had made a successful expedition
against the Russians, received estates in this neigh¬
bourhood, and caused such an edifice to be built:
no difficult matter, as the town is surrounded by
mountains of white calcareous stone. After the
conquest of the Krimea, the Greek name was re¬
stored, so as to obliterate any associations between
Ak-Metchet and the natives ; an attempt which has
hitherto failed, and may never succeed. Though
all the records of the Tartars were destroyed, their
language will hand down their former history by
tradition to their immediate successors, and they,
perhaps, to the remotest ages.
Sympheropole was the former residence of the
Ivalga-Sultan, after the Khan, the most distin¬
guished individual in the peninsula. It is now the
capital of the Krimea, and the residence of the
civil governor. It lies in a fine valley, at the base
of the Tauridan mountains, and upon the Salglur,
a small river, except in the spring or after heavy
rains, which is strongly impregnated with lime.
It is 963 miles distant from Moscow, and 1458
from Petersburgh. It consists of two parts; the
European part built by the Russians since the
seizure of the Krimea in 1783 ; and the Tartar or
Asiatic part, which, till lately, consisted of struc¬
tures entirely in the manner of the natives. Nu¬
merous gardens, clumps of trees, and extensive
fields, give a lively appearance to Sympheropole in
CATHEDRAL AT SYMPHEROrOLE.
241
summer; but, I understand, that it is rather a gloomy
residence in winter. The new town presents wide
streets; and, besides the crown-buildings, as the go¬
vernor’s house, the vice-governor’s house, the police-
office, the civil hospital, a barrack, and the elegant
cathedral, it contains a considerable number of pri¬
vate houses. On every hand, however, we remarked
the ruins of former structures, and many buildings
in an unfinished state.
There is not a single edifice in Sympheropole
worthy of particular notice except the Cathedral.
Many years ago the Russian government liberally
granted 60,000 roubles, according to an esti¬
mate, for its erection but this sum only raised the
walls to half their intended height. A second esti¬
mate was made, and 40,000 roubles were ordered
for its completion; but this second sum merely
finished the walls, and the building remains un¬
roofed. A third estimate was lately presented to
the crown, which has granted 60,000 roubles addi¬
tional, and ordered the edifice to be finished. This
is an excellent illustration of the general manner
of procedure in all the affairs of the crown, as well
as of the nobles; they almost always begin upon a
gigantic plan, and seldom complete it till many
years after the fixed period ; and often not at all.
I should not be surprised if a fourth sum should yet
be demanded before divine worship can be per¬
formed within the walls of the cathedral. Archi-
tects have been blamed in many countries for inac-
vol. i. R
242
CATHEDRAL AT SYMPHEROPOLE.
curate estimates, but in Russia the extent of their
inaccuracy is incredible. It is in unison with the
corrupt state of civil government in all its depart¬
ments ; and it seems to be frequently a scheme to
give low estimates, in order to induce the crown,
or individuals, to commence great works; the ar¬
chitects, knowing that after considerable progress
has been made, they generally succeed in obtaining
further grants of money.
The Cathedral is founded upon the spot where
Suvarof gained a victory, is a large edifice of
an oblong form, and is of an agreeable height.
Its north and south fa 9 ades, and west end, are
each adorned with a portico, and ranges of co¬
lumns, while the east end is of a semicircular form
for the altar, and presents a peristyle with nume¬
rous pillars. The whole edifice is built of stone,
and the columns are of polished stone; no usual
sight in this part of the world. Taken as a
whole, it is by far the most handsome ecclesiastic
structure I have seen in the Russian empire.
Like all the Tartar towns and villages in the
Krimea, the Tartar part of Ak-Metchet has an
exceedingly mean and disgusting appearance, and
the streets are for the most part narrow and irre¬
gular. A few years ago, Castelnau said that a
traveller who had never seen a Tartar or a Turkish
town, would believe that he was wandering among
stone-cages, in which fools were confined; and
that most of the houses were so low, that they
SYMPHEROPOLE.
243
could scarcely be perceived, except where the
surrounding walls were in ruins. These charac¬
teristics still predominate, yet the gloomy uni¬
formity and monotony of a Tartar town are every
where broken in upon by European buildings. In¬
deed, at Sympheropole, the stranger can no longer
form an accurate idea of either a Tartar town or a
Tartar village.
In the Tartar quarter, is the Gostinnoi Dvore, or
bargaining-shops, which are kept by the natives, as
well as by Greeks, Armenians, and Russians, and
which we found supplied with the necessaries and
luxuries of life, European and Asiatic. A visit to the
Tartar shops yielded us much amusement; and we
bought some of their embroidered boots, of all the
colours of the rainbow, and for all ages and sexes,
and also leather straps, balls, and toys, as presents
for the natives on our journey. With regret we
found that the same despicable system of bargaining,
which almost universally prevails among the Rus¬
sian merchants throughout the whole empire, had
also infected the Tartars, who are become adepts
in deception.
In 1794, Pallas cautiously remarked that since
the Krimea became part of the Russian territory,
Sympheropole had lost much of its prosperity;
and in 1800, according to Dr. Clarke, although
the place had once been beautiful, the Russians
had laid all waste. In 1808 and 1813, if we take
Stchekatof and Vsevolojskii for our guides, there
244
SYMPHEROPOLE. — ITS CLIMATE.
were in Sympheropole 339 houses, f 30 bake¬
houses, 197 shops, 12 coffee-houses, 13 khans
or magazines, 2 inns, 5 taverns; and the popu¬
lation amounted to 2000 souls, of whom nearly
one half were Tartars, while the other half was
made up of Greeks, Moldavians, Armenians,
Turks, and Jews. There can be no doubt that
this town has recovered much of its prosperity
and trade within the last few years ; and we were
assured, upon good authority, that the number
of its houses and inhabitants is daily increasing.
Indeed, this is proved by the facts, that the value
of land in the town is enormously augmented; and
that, by a late statistical map, there are now 468
houses in Sympheropole. By the same authority,
we were told that the Tartars now begin to assi¬
milate with the Russians, and that the highest
ranks among them sit upon chairs, and use knives
and forks at their meals, instead of being cross-
legged upon low divans, and serving themselves
with their fingers.
Besides four mosques, with their towering mina¬
rets, there are also a Greek church, an Armenian
church, a Roman Catholic church, and a Syna¬
gogue in Ak-Metchet.
Dr. Clarke adopted an opinion, that this town
was extremely unhealthy. Speaking of Pallas, he
says, “ Splendid as his residence appeared, the air
of the place was so bad, that the most rigid absti¬
nence from all sorts of animal food was insufficient
A TARTAR COFFEE-HOUSE. 245
to preserve the inhabitants from fevers.” On this
point, we suspect great inaccuracy, as the resident
physician seemed to consider its situation very
salubrious, and as far as my enquiries will allow me
to pronounce, I should be of his opinion. One
fact, indeed, seems to render this conclusive, for
a distinguished medical man, who practised for
many years in Petersburgh, has lately withdrawn
from the labours of his profession, and built a
house at Sympheropole, with the intention of spend¬
ing there the remainder of his days.
While strolling about the streets, one evening,
in the Tartar division of Ak-Metchet, the sono¬
rous, but harsh sound of music in a Tartar coffee¬
house, induced us to ascend a narrow stair-case,
and enter it; when quite a novel scene presented
itself. A single large room was divided by low
wooden partitions, surmounted by rails as orna¬
ments, into four small compartments, the floors of
which were elevated a few inches above the level
of the passage. In each of these apartments was a
low table, on which stood an immense salver with
live charcoal, surrounded by groups of Tartars
and Greeks, in their native costumes, who were
sitting cross-legged upon the floor, drinking cof¬
fee and smoking pipes, with their usual gravity
and taciturnity, apparently as little affected by
the thundering of the musicians, as if they had
been in a remote desert.
They all wore loose red and yellow boots, in the
r 3
24 6
A TARTAR COFFEE-HOUSE.
Eastern style, and had left their slippers at the en¬
trance, which they use for the same purpose as
ladies wear pattens in Great Britain. All of them
wore small caps, except the hadgis, or those who
had made a pilgrimage to Mecca or Medina, whose
heads were surmounted by high white turbans,
as a badge of honour. After looking about us,
and being somewhat stared at, we got possession
of one of the small apartments, took our places in
Tartar style, drank coffee, and smoked our pipes.
We all tried the kalioun, which we found excessively
difficult to use, no doubt from want of practice as the
Tartars and Greeks sent forth volumes of smoke
from it, with as much apparent ease, as from a com¬
mon tobacco-pipe. Partly by speaking Russ, and
partly through Sultan Katti-Gherri Krim-Gherri,
we had a good deal of conversation with the in¬
mates of the coffee-house, all of whom, though
formal, we found civil and polite. Two violins,
held like the violoncello, and a tambarine, regaled
us during our stay with most inharmonious music.
Although the Tartars and the Greeks showed
great apathy to the amusement, yet they must have
some taste for it, since the master of the house
finds it advantageous to employ the musicians very
frequently. Our host, who seemed a sensible man,
when asked how long he had been at Sympheropole,
replied, “ seven or fourteen years /” We found
that his greatest wish was to make a journey, with¬
out the least deviation from a straight line, and to
MAHOMED AN WORSHIP.
247
proceed to whatever countries he might be led,
by land or sea. When he had acquired a little
money, he seriously intended to make the experi¬
ment ; at least he pretended so.
The Krim Tartars, as is well known, and as has
been mentioned by Dr. Clarke, are much in the
habit of going to Mecca. We saw one upon the
road, mounted on horseback, as he crossed the
Salghir. Upon enquiry, we found that after he had
made a certain progress on his journey he intended
to dispose of his horse, in order to procure the
means of existence for himself. At this time he
had only a few roubles, and was happy at re¬
ceiving our charity, as well as that of others, to
enable him to accomplish his devout purpose.
Having heard the Mohla’s call from the mi¬
naret of one of the mosques, at mid-day, we pro¬
ceeded to witness the practice of the Mahomedan
worship. The slow and majestic pace of the Tar¬
tars, after their ablutions, their grave countenances,
and their serious conduct produced a solemnity in
our minds which we little expected.
Though Pallas be gone, his loss has been
supplied by one of the first naturalists of the age,
Mr. Christian Steven, who, after having travelled
in the Caucasus, Georgia, and the Krimea, under
the auspices of the Russian government, was,
some years ago, appointed director of the bo¬
tanic garden at Nikita, on the south coast of
the peninsula, where he resides for some months
r 4
248
MR. STEVEN.
of the year. He has lately purchased a house
adjoining to Sympheropole, at which we were
introduced to his acquaintance. He lias particu¬
larly distinguished himself as a botanist and ento¬
mologist. He was an extensive contributor to the
celebrated Flora Tauro-Caucasica, by Marschall a
Bieberstein; and lately he made a present oi a col¬
lection of insects, many of them rare and non-de¬
scripts, valued at nearly five hundred pounds ster¬
ling, to the university of Moscow, upon condition of
being allowed perpetually to nominate two pupils
to be educated as naturalists at its expense. These
rare insects will be all included in the splendid
“ Entomugraphia ,’’ of Professor Fischer, of Mos¬
cow, one volume of which was published sometime
ago, and another has, most likely, ere this issued
from the press.
From Mr. Steven we got a great deal of inform¬
ation ; and, among other objects of natural his¬
tory, he showed us a congeries of shells which he
had found in one of the steps of the Krimea. As
Pallas has minutely described the rocks of calca¬
reous tufj by the course of the Salghir, the mi¬
neralogist should be furnished with a copy of
his travels.
While walking with Mr. Steven, in his garden,
he pointed out to me the dwelling of Madame
Pallas, at a short distance; and roused my curiosity
to see this lady, of whose romantic adventures 1 had
heard so much. The high character of her late
MADAME PALLAS.
249
husband reflects a lustre upon his family, and ren¬
ders every information, with respect to him or them,
interesting,
Mr. Steven conducted me to a small house,
whose exterior and interior appearance bore no
indication of riches nor even of ease. Madame
Pallas is tall, and appears to have been hand¬
some ; but whatever charms she possessed time has
withered. She is now an old emaciated lady,
but lively, affable, and sociable. She spoke of Dr.
Clarke, and Mr. Cripps, and seemed a good deal
affected at the news of the death of the former,
whom her husband had treated and saved, above
twenty years ago, when attacked by a violent fever
in the Krimea. The political differences between
England and Russia put it out of Dr. Clarke’s
power to correspond afterwards with his benefactor,
but he has given him the strongest memorial of
gratitude in his Travels ; and adds, in a note,- “ if
either he, or his family, should ever cast their eyes
upon these pages, they will here find the only ac¬
knowledgment we have been able to render for
such unexampled benevolence.” * Though neither
Pallas nor his lady had ever had an opportunity of
seeing Clarke’s Travels, they had often heard of
them. Some malignant spirit had conveyed the
intelligence, that this celebrated author had spoken
of Pallas with disrespect and ridicule, and had carica-
* Clarke’s Travels, p. 459.
250
MADAME PALLAS.
turcd him in a woman’s dress, acting theatrical
characters tar beneath his rank and dignity. When
informed by me, on the contrary, that Dr. Clarke
had spoken of her husband with gratitude and ad¬
miration, she was highly pleased; but, when I
added, that lie had given a representation of her
husband and of herself) in the costumes of the wife
of a Russian merchant with her duenna, as engraved
after the drawing of Pallas’s own artist, Mr. Geisler,
(and presented to Clarke by her husband), she ap¬
peared offended, and was silent.
Madame Pallas has played a very different part
in life from her sensible partner. Seldom have two
more opposite characters been united. She was
an actress at Petersburgh ; and, if general report
be true, was by no means distinguished for the
correctness of her conduct, when Pallas, almost
double her age, paid his addresses to her, and
afterwards made her his companion in life. Had
she then reformed her conduct, perhaps the de¬
clining years of Pallas might have been rendered
happy, and probably the world would not have
heard of “ the disquietude and hardships which
oppress him in his present residence, and embitter
his declining days,” and which Dr. Clarke, by
mistake, attributed to the conduct and neglect of
the Russian government. His only daughter was
married to a German officer, Baron Wimpfen.
They had no children, and lived unhappily toge-
LOCUSTS.-TARTAR FIRMAN. 251
ther : a number of years ago the Baron shot him¬
self.
At the time we were at Sympheropole, the whole
town and country were in an uproar, in consequence
of myriads of locusts, which were destroying all
the products of the earth, and crowds of Tar¬
tars were occupied, in the manner hereafter de¬
scribed, for their destruction.
We gladly accepted the obliging offer of Sultan
Katti-Gherri Krim-Ghqrri, to accompany us dur¬
ing our proposed tour round the south coast of
the Krimea. As we had determined to travel in a
carriage as far as Sevastopol, we procured an order,
or c firman , for riding and baggage horses from that
town, through the vice-governor; who, at our re¬
quest, also furnished us with a Greek, who spoke
both Tartar and Russian, as interpreter and as¬
sistant.
According to Clarke, and others, if travellers
are provided with an order from the governor of
the district, the Tartars must furnish horses, lodg¬
ings, and even provisions, gratis * : an order of
which no honourable stranger would avail himselff
were it still in existence. But no such firman is
now granted, unless it be by special favour; and
the giving accommodations to travellers, frees the
individuals from some burthens. A translation of
our firman will show its nature : —
* Clarke’s Travels, p. 520.
252
TARTAR FIRMAN.-SABLA.
“ Open Order of the Town and District Police.
It is ordered to provide the Italians,-,-, and
-,-, and the Englishmen, -, -, and
Dr. Lyall, in their journey by the south coast of the
Krimean peninsula, the necessary number of saddle-
horses, with conductors, for the fixed progon (fare),
and without detention.
“ May Uth, 1822.
“ Vice-Governor,
“ J. Krut.”
Scarcely had we quitted Sympheropole, when,
again to our vexation, we found ourselves in a step
country, covered by Tauric Asphodel ( Aspho-
delas Tauricus ) rising like the tufts of soldiers’
caps, from amidst but indifferent and short grass,
and producing a singular appearance. This dreary
scenery, however, did not long continue: mea¬
dows, trees, rills, and rivulets, especially the Bul-
ganak, soon enlivened the prospect. The road
was pretty good, but scattered with large stones,
and soon became varied by gentle ascents and
descents. Having letters of introduction to Sena¬
tor Borozdin, who was formerly governor of the
Krimea, we made a detour to the left; and, pur¬
suing our journey through a smiling country,
reached his estate, called Sabla, about two o’clock,
just as the family had risen from dinner. We were
well received; and, to the Senator’s question,
“ have you dined, gentlemen ?” we replied in the
affirmative. The Sultan, more honestly, said, “ we
SABLA.
253
breakfasted well, and had a beef-steak, in case we
should meet with no dinner by the wayan answer
which procured us a dinner. Sabla, or Sabli, as
it is oftener called, is in a charming situation, sur¬
rounded by a mountainous and picturesque coun¬
try, near the river of the same name, which, at a
short distance, empties itselfinto the Alma. While
rambling through the gardens, we could not but
remark the sudden transition, in the course of a
few versts, from bleakness and barrenness, to
wooded hills, and lovely vales, and verdant lawns.
The habitation of Mr. Borozdin has a mean
exterior, which well corresponds, however, with its
interior. The Senator’s taste leads him to attend
more to the beauties of nature, and the arrangement
of his gardens, than to the order or the comfort of his
house. His library is a curious melange. It contains
many good works, and is pretty extensive. It rather
surprised us to see so good a one in the possession
of a Russian nobleman, in the Krimean peninsula.
It also serves as laboratory, apothecary’s shop, and
cabinet of mathematical and physical apparatus,
as a museum of curiosities, especially of the bows
and arrows of the Asiatic tribes, and, as a reposi¬
tory of children’s toys. The gardens are fine; they
contain many tender exotics, and an abundance of
more hardy plants. They have also a delightful
shady grove.
After dinner we were conducted to the distance
of about three versts, to see a cloth manufactory,
254 borozdin’s cloth manufactory.
which Mr. Borozdin has established. The road
lay through fields, meadows, and woods of the
most luxuriant foliage, by the banks of the Sabla.
We were purposely conducted over some hills,
in order to enjoy the interesting views, many parts
of which reminded me of the Trosachs, immortal¬
ised by Scott, Mountains and rocks, dells, ra¬
vines, and plains, beautifully adorned by shrubbery
and woods, among which the Alma and the Sabla
wind, give the whole scene an air of fairy land.
We examined the sheepfolds, and saw all the oper¬
ations of picking, carding, and spinning the wool,
as well as weaving and dying the cloth, performed
by Tartars, who have been trained under the tui¬
tion of a German director. Most of the cloth
shown us was of an inferior quality, and fitted for
the demands of the Russian market; but some
pieces surprised us by their fineness, and led us to
the conclusion that, with the improvements which
were making in the machinery, Mr. Borozdin’s ma¬
nufactory will have the desired success. In the year
1821,15,000 arshins (above 11,000 yards) of cloth
were made here, which averaged twelve roubles
arshin, and were sold for 180,000 roubles. The
fabric yielded a very extraordinary profit to the
proprietor; and on that account he must be reck¬
oned very fortunate, especially as the possessors of
estates in the peninsula generally derive but small
revenues from them.
Having sent forward our interpreter to get a
PALACE OF BAKTCHISERAI. 255
lodging prepared for us, and drank tea in the grove
already alluded to, surrounded by the charms of
nature, we bade Senator Borozdin adieu, got into the
great road, crossed the Alma, and, ascending gently
among the hills, reached the border of the narrow
valley in which lies Baktchiserai. We had re¬
marked whole districts covered with red poppies
(Papaver Rlueas and Papaver dubium ) before
reaching Sympheropole; and in to-day’s drive, the
same appearance frequently presented itself, and,
indeed, as we afterwards saw, is frequent all the
way to Sevastopole. We proceeded slowly, and
the darkness, which had overtaken us, contributed
greatly to the effect of the illuminated minarets of
Baktchiserai. The Tartars at service in the met-
cMts or mosques; a succession of blazing hearths
where swarthy blacksmiths were at work in open
shops; and crowds of the natives lounging at
the market-places, engaged our eager attention:
nor did a triumphal arch, which lay in our course,
and which, as I afterwards found by an inscription,
was erected tor Catherine II.’s splendid entrance
into this town, in 17S7, escape our observation.
We soon reached the palace of the ancient khans
of the Krimea, the gloomy solitude of which is sel¬
dom interrupted, except by the casual abode of
strangers, to whose convenience its best apartments
are devoted; there being no inns or lodgings, in
which they could be comfortably accommodated,
in the town. The superintendant of the palace,
256
PALACE OF BAKTCHISERA1.
warned by a messenger of our approach, had
given orders that all should be in readiness for our
reception. Having crossed a small bridge, we en¬
tered a large portal, passed through a spacious court,
and arrived at the part of the palace destined for
us. So many candles were lighted, that it ap¬
peared as if an illumination had been made on pur¬
pose to display the Asiatic and princely grandeur
of departed sovereignty. The Oriental scenes which
delighted our imagination in the days of our youth,
in the Arabian Nights’ Entertainments, seemed to
be realised, as we ascended spacious stairs, wan¬
dered through lofty halls, or couched on the green
divans and scarlet pillows which surround the
grand saloon of the ancient khans of the Krimea.
CHAP. VI.
PALACE OF BAKTCHISERAI.— KHANS OF THE ICRIMEA.—RE¬
NOVATION OF THE PALACE.— DESCRIPTION .OF BAKTCHISE¬
RAI.— TCHUFUT-KALE AND THE KARAITE JEWS. - THEIR
COSTUME. —THEIR SYNAGOGUES.-MAUSOLEUM, AND ROMAN¬
TIC HISTORY, OF THE DAUGHTER OF TAKTAMISH. - THE
JEWISH CEMETERY.— THE GREEK MONASTERY.— INFLUENCE
OF IMAGINATION. — DRESS OF THE KARAITE JEWS. — DIVINE
SERVICE.— THE SCOTCH MISSIONARY-THE MERCHANTS OF
BAKTCHISERAI. — JOURNEY FROM BAKTCHISERAI TO SEVVS-
TOPOLE.-THE CAVERNS OF INKERMAN. — INSALUBRITY OF
THE AIR.—SALTPETRE MANUFACTORIES. — LOCUSTS. — AR¬
RIVAL AT SEVASTOPOLE.—ANECDOTE. — ADMIRAL BAILLIE.
— ROGUERY.-COLLECTION OF CATS.— BAY OF SEVASTO¬
POLE.— FLEET OF THE BLACK SEA.—DESCRIPTION OF SEVAS¬
TOPOLE.— ITS POPULATION.
Xhe morning after our arrival at Baktchiserai was
well occupied in the examination of the palace.
VOL. I.
258
PALACE OF BAKTCHISERAI.
The flower-garden, the fruit-garden, numerous
fountains and marble basins, the kiosk in which
the Khan kept his falcons, the apartments which
had been fitted up for the accommodation of Ca¬
therine II., the k/iarem or seraglio, the large
and gaudily decorated justice-hall, and more es¬
pecially the magnificent apartment in which we
had reposed, all claimed attention. As to the
general arrangement of this palace in the times
of its ancient splendour, Castelnau remarks, that
“ Mahomed, the dead, and the horses, were on one
side, the Sovereign, the wives, and the falcons, on
the other.” It has been described by Pallas and
Clarke, and, at great length, by Castelnau; and
the two first-named authors, as well as Mrs.
Holderness, have thought it worthy of a plate;
therefore my remarks may be very short.*
The cemetery, and the mausoleums of the
departed Khans, which form the subject of the
vignette to this chapter, adjoin to the palace, and
if the hearts of their successors were susceptible
of the higher feelings of our nature, these monu¬
ments must have served as faithful and continual
mementos of the uncertainty of human greatness.
The cemetery was in great confusion, and the prin¬
cipal cause of this is said to be the horror with
* If the traveller can carry the works of all these authors
with him, he will find each to have its advantages. On quitting
the Krimea or the Kuban, he can send them by post to Mos¬
cow or Petersburg!), and from thence they can be conveyed.
to any place he likes.
KHANS OF THE KRIMEA.
2 59
which the Tartars regard every violation of the
soil, as of the monuments of their sovereigns. The
history of the Khans of the Ivrimea is very inter¬
esting. The intrigues, deception, and treachery,
the elevation, dethronement, and rapid succes¬
sion, of princes in the Tauridan peninsula, power¬
fully remind us of the maddest, most fluctuating,
and most sanguinary period of the Roman empire,
when sovereigns presented themselves and disap¬
peared like actors upon a stage. The reader who
is desirous of becoming intimately acquainted with
the dynasties of the Khans and their history, is re¬
ferred to the works of Pallas, Sestrenevicz de
Bohujz, Castelnau, Guthrie, Clarke, &c.
I was happy to find that the palace of Baktchi-
serai, — the most perfect and the most remarkable
monument of Oriental magnificence now in the
Krimea,—is about to be restored to its former state.
By particular orders of Catherine II., while de¬
struction and desolation followed the progress of
the Russians, this palace was preserved entire; and
as a proof of the universal respect with which it was
treated, it was not converted into barracks during
the transforming reign of Paul. But it has been
left to the liberality of Alexander to arrest the all-
destroying hand of time, which was fast obliterating
all traces of its former magnificence. The Eastern
splendour of this establishment may soon be. the
theme of other pens, when travellers shall no longer
260 RENOVATION OF THE PALACE.-BAKTCHISERAI.
be admitted to sleep within its walls. The estimate
for the repairs of the whole structure amounts to
300,000 roubles; and I was assured that 165,000
of that sum had already been received for their
execution.
Baktchiserai literally signifies garden-palace, and
was formerly the capital of the Krimea. It does
not appear, however, that it ever was a town of
great magnitude, or had a great population. Since
the Russians, by intrigue, treachery, and force of
arms, became masters of the peninsula, Symphero-
pole has been the chief town of the govei'nment of
Taurida, and the residence of its governor.
Baktchiserai is a singular town, which occupies
a narrow valley ; or, as Dr. Clarke says, “ the
craggy sides of a prodigious natural fosse, between
two high mountains, somewhat like that of Mat-
lock, in Derbyshire.” The stream, Tchurulc-Su
(stinking water), traverses the town, the houses of
which are elevated in terraces, one above the
other, along the sides of the hills, and are inter¬
mixed with gardens, vineyards, clumps of trees, and
especially Lombardy poplars, watered by numerous
fountains and canals, which have their sources
among the surrounding mountains. The nume¬
rous minarets of the mosques, the ancient pa¬
lace with the adjoining mausoleums, and a pro¬
fusion of white chimneys rising amidst the richest
foliage, produce a peculiarly beautiful and pic¬
turesque effect, which is indescribable, but may be
DESCRIPTION OF BAKTCHISERAI.
261
conceived from a plate in Pallas’s Travels, to which
the reader is referred. Though the town does not
contain one magnificent object, yet there is a sin¬
gularity and beauty in the tout-ensemble , which
cannot fail to yield much pleasure to the specta¬
tor. Like many other scenes, it pleases more by
its apparent than its real beauty; for, when ex¬
amined in detail, Baktchiserai is a shabby town.
The streets are narrow, winding, and dirty. The
houses are generally small, and their exuberance of
neat white-washed chimneys the Tartars seem to
think a great ornament, for one half of them are of
no utility. The rows of shops along both sides of
the principal street are excessively mean in their
appearance. The shops for all kinds of provisions
are worthy of a visit; but the traveller will find
more amusement in those of the saddlers, armour¬
ers, cutlers, and boot-makers. The Tartars of
Baktchiserai were once celebrated for the excel¬
lency of their saddlery; and much of their work¬
manship was sent to Constantinople. Their cut¬
lery we had heard highly boasted; but, whatever
may have been the claim of their ancestors to this
distinction, the present race can have none. Many
of their articles may have been well tempered, but
they were very roughly finished — or, rather, were
not finished at all — and especially their knives
and penknives.
In his perambulations among the shops, the
visitor will not fail to remark an abundance of the
s 3
262
DESCRIPTION OF BAKTCHISERAI.
darkish-yellow powder called kna (Lcrwsonia alcan¬
na ), with an infusion of which the natives dye their
nails, everywhere exposed for sale.
Dr. Clarke has given a lively description of the
destruction of Baktchiserai, after the conquest of
the Kriraea, through “ the savage and wanton
barbarity of the Russians.” In the year 1793,
according to Pallas, this town contained thirty-one
mosques, mostly built of hewn stone, and orna¬
mented with minarets ; a Greek church ; an Ar¬
menian church ; two synagogues ; three Mahome-
dan schools; two baths, constructed in the Turkish
manner, and covered with fine cupolas; sixteen
khans, or large houses, which serve as inns or ma¬
gazines ; twenty-one taverns ; nineteen Tartar cof¬
fee-houses; five mills; and 519 shops. Of these
shops, 121 were occupied by mercers ; forty-one by
saddlers and curriers; 125 by the sellers of eatables ;
twenty-four by shoemakers ; twenty-three by Tar¬
tar cutlers; five by braziers; ten by barbers;
nineteen by taylors; six by goldsmiths; five by
armourers ; eight by boot-makers ; and twenty by
bakers. Besides, there were thirteen stalls, where
was sold a kind of drink prepared from millet,
called husa by the Tartars; nine wood magazines;
eight barrel magazines ; five rope-works; seven
manufactories of felt-caps and felt-mantles; four
of pottery-ware ; thirteen of candles ; five of to¬
bacco-pipes ; thirteen tanneries and Morocco-lea¬
ther establishments; six smithies; and seven shops
DESCRIPTION OF BAKTCHISERAI.
263
of wood-engravers. The total number of houses
was reckoned at 1561. As we are informed
by a statistical map of the Krimea, that the present
number is 1622; it follows, that the increase of
structures in this town, in the course of the last
thirty years, only amounts to thirty-one; a sure in¬
dication of no great prosperity.
In 1793, Pallas stated that the population of
Baktchiserai amounted to 5,776 souls, of whom
3166 were males, and 2610 females. This num¬
ber included 204 Greeks of both sexes; four¬
teen nobles; and forty-two merchants; fifty-one
Armenians; 1162 Jews, of whom 420 were in¬
scribed as merchants; and nearly 3000 Tartars,
among whom were twenty nobles, 287 merchants,
163 priests, and seventy church clerks.
Catherine II. gave up Baktchiserai entirely to
the Tartars, so that it contains no Russian bur¬
gesses. Its Russian population consists of persons
of rank, who either hold some appointment, or who
have retired from active service to this town as .an
agreeable residence. The Tartars, and the Jews,
have their own magistrates. According to Castel-
nau, the commerce of Baktchiserai was declining
in the year 1812 ; but it is now more active than
it has been for some years past. Its popula¬
tion has considerably augmented, and it bears an
immense ratio to the small increase of houses
for their accommodation. But the probability is,
s 4
204-
description OF BAKTCHISEUAI.
that in 1793, many of the Tartar houses were
empty, which are now fully occupied.
For the following recent and very accurate in¬
formation, I am indebted to a gentleman who re¬
sided in the Krimea, and whose name it would, at
this moment, be imprudent to mention, even though
he be beyond the frontiers of Russia. I shall use
his own words: — *
“ In regard to the population of this place
(Baktchiserai) previous to the occupation of the
peninsula by the Russians, I have no certain means
of information. But without hazarding any con¬
jecture on the subject, I cannot think that it far
exceeded what it is at present. As to its present
population I am happy to give you the following
table extracted from an official document: —
1
Males.!
Females.
Total.
Gentlemen and Officers'
Christian
40
26
66
with their families
Ecclesiastics (with their"
’ Mahomedan
j
22 ;
20
42
families) who in virtue
I Christian
6
7
13
of their office are ex- j
empted from all taxes J
[Mahomedan
230
204
434
Merchants of the third\
guild , with their families J
- Mahomedan
i
32
25
57
Burghers, with their fa-1
milies j
) Christian
* Mahomedan
89
4116
75
3553
164
7669
1 Jewish Karaite
645
575
1120
Settlers from other towns and nations
370
117
547
Total
5550 i
4662
10,212
* The adoption of severe measures towards foreigners, in Rus¬
sia, since I published The Character of the Russians, &c. makes
me cautious in mentioning names.
DESCRIPTION OF BAKTCHISERAI.
265
“ You will observe that in the above enumer¬
ation, the Karaite Jews of Tchufut-Kale are set
down as freemen of the town. In the table are not
included, eight families of Armenians. There are
not above five or six families of Russians ; the re¬
mainder of them designated as Christians in the
table are all Greeks. The following enumeration
may also gratify you : —
f Greek - - 1
Churches < Greek monastery - 1
(.Armenian - - 1
Mahomedan mosques - 32
c f Karaite Tchfifut-Kale 2
Synagogues j Rabbinical . . j
Christian parish school - i
Mahomedan public schools - 3
Public fountains - 74?”
Although the distance of Tchufut-Kale from
Baktchiserai is only about four versts, to save time
we hired Tartar horses, and set off to visit this re¬
markable village, or town, as it is called. Having
just left the precincts of Baktchiserai, we paused to
regard the wild scenery with which we were sur¬
rounded, composed of broken and impending pre¬
cipices, masses of detached rock, and deep ravines.
The road, at first gently acclivitous, became more
and more steep as we approached the entrance of
Tchufut-Kale. Though we passed over bare rocks,
yet the ascent was by no means so difficult as is re¬
presented by some travellers.
Tchufut-Kale has a singular and picturesque,
266 TCHUFUT-KALE AND THE KARAITE JEWS.
but mean, appearance — little in unison with the
grandeur of the natural scenery by which it is en¬
vironed. It occupies a bold triangular rock be¬
tween two deep ravines, and is fortified, if we may
so speak, by natural walls on two sides, while the
base joins to a neighbouring hill on the north. The
streets are narrow and irregular, but clean, and the
naked rock forms their pavement. A few of them
have trottoirs for the convenience of the inhabit¬
ants, a refinement which we did not expect to find
in such a spot. As among the Tartars, the houses
of the natives, amounting to about 200, are sur¬
rounded by high walls, and are built of rude masses
of limestone, cemented together with clay, and
present but a very mean exterior.
Pallas, long ago, reckoned the population of
Tchufut-Kale at 1200 souls; at present it only
amounts to 1120.
Dr. Lange, of Sympheropole, had given us a
letter for the Jewish Rabbi, who, we found, had
just concluded divine service. It being the Jewish
sabbath he himself could not receive the letter, but
it was given to his secretary. He entertained us well,
however, and ordered us a dram of vodthi ; while
bread, and conserve of roses, were placed before
us. The Rabbi’s wife and daughters had all dis¬
appeared, and we only saw them when, prompted
by curiosity, they stole a look at us through latticed
windows. We were placed upon a divan, in a
small room, into which the wind had free access
THEIR COSTUME.-THEIR SYNAGOGUES. 2(>7
in summer, through the bars of the windows; in
winter it is excluded by oiled paper. The Rabbi
is a reverend-looking man ; he is distinguished for
his talents, and is highly respected by his flock. He
has published a work upon astronomy, in Hebrew,
and he also showed us a calendar of his composition
in the same language.
The Karaite Jews of Tchufut-Kale having lived,
from time immemorial, under the domination of
the Tartars, have almost entirely adopted their
costume, their language, their customs, and their
manners.
Adjoining to the Rabbi’s house we visited two
nearly similar synagogues, both oblong, plain edi¬
fices, one story high, built of stone, covered with
tiles, and lighted by small latticed windows. The
chief synagogue is distinguished by piazzas in its
front. The part of it appropriated to females
has a separate entry, forms a kind of elevated
gallery, and is completely shut up by lattices,
so that the inmates are invisible. The interior
of the edifice is surrounded by shelves loaded
with books, which are used by the congrega¬
tion during service, and is adorned by numerous
chandeliers, which have been received as presents.
We were shown different copies of the Pentateuch,
which were kept in round ornamented cases, in a
niche in the wall, concealed by a screen, and
corresponding to the place of the altar, over which
was inscribed in Hebrew, “ Jehovah.”
MAUSOLEUM AND ROMANTIC HISTORY
2G8
In the court of the other synagogue we found
an inscription upon a stone set upon the top of the
wall, in compliment to his Imperial Majesty Alex¬
ander, in consequence of his visit to this spot, on
the 18th May, 1818, which seemed to have given
great pleasure and satisfaction.
The Jews next conducted us to view the
mausoleum of a Tartar princess, and daughter of
Taktamish; a small handsome edifice, with an
elegant portico, and consisting of two vaults, the
one above the other. Pallas alludes to the history
of this princess; and Castelnau received the follow¬
ing account, which is taken from a Turkish history
of the Khans : —
Tamerlane had conquered the Kiptchak* from
the Khan, Taktamish, in the year 1392. His reign
was eighty-five or eighty-six years anterior to the
dynasty of Gherri. A young prince, whose valour
had often been remarked by Tamerlane, merited
the esteem of this warrior, and he ceded the new
province to him. The daughter of the Khan,
young, pretty, and happy, inspired a strong passion
in the possessor of her father’s estates. The lover
solicited his benefactor to restore the Kiptchak to
Taktamish, on condition that the hand of his
* The empire of Kiptchak included the north of Asia, Rus¬
sia, a part of Poland, and even extended into Germany and
Hungary. After the conquest by Tamerlane it was divided
into the four khanats of Kaz&n, Astrachdn, Kiptchdk, and the
Krimea,
OF THE DAUGHTER OF TAKTAMISH. QG f J
daughter should become the price of this resti¬
tution. Tamerlane consented to this; and the old
Khan accepted the offer without difficulty. Tak-
tamfsh forgot the noble actions of Tamerlane, and,
hoping to find a defender in the person of his son-
in-law, he caused a revolt of the principal persons
of his country against the conqueror, and put him¬
self at the head of a coalition composed of weak
and discouraged states. Preferring honour to love,
the young husband did not quit the standard of
Tamerlane. The Khan was defeated, and repulsed
even to the environs of Baktchiserai; the coalition
was dissolved, and, the vengeance of Tamerlane
being satisfied, he directed his steps towards other
enemies. As a recompence for his fidelity, the
young Prince of Kiptchak obtained permission to
rejoin the princess. Tchufut-Kale had then another
denomination, and was reckoned an impregnable
fortress. The Khan and his daughter had taken
refuge within its walls. The news having been
brought to the Khan, that Tamerlane had pene¬
trated into Russia, he immediately departed, as¬
sembled all the troops he could muster, left a
commandant in the place, and prepared to cut off
the retreat of the enemy, and deliver the Taurida
and its environs from so formidable a conqueror.
Two days after the Khan had quitted Tchufut-
Kale, the Prince of Kiptchak arrived there. After
the first transports of disappointed love, the Princess
demanded that her lover should command the for-
270 HISTORY OF THE DAUGHTER OF TAKTAM1S1I.
tress; but the officer appointed by the Khan re¬
fused to obey her. The garrison was divided into
two parties, and ready to take arms. Another per¬
son wished to play his part in this disagreeable
affair, which did not concern him. Not sufficiently
eloquent to unite irritated spirits, he persuaded
each of the parties that the other had yielded, and
proposed to terminate all remaining animosity by a
feast. In the mean time, out of regard to the
Princess, he appointed some individuals to await
a certain signal, in order to transfer the command
to the Prince of Kiptchak. Scarcely were the chiefs
assembled when the feast commenced, and the
signal was given. The commandant, surprised by
tumults, beheld the part played, and cried out,
“ treason, treason !” The counsellor of the parties
expired under his strokes, and- the hall resounded
with the clashing of arms and the groans of the
wounded. The tumult increased as the spirit of
the parties waxed warm. The Prince was wounded;
at the sight of his blood, his lover threw herself
into his arms,—they were stabbed to the heart
and fell down dead, locked in each other’s embrace.
This spectacle petrified the assembly with horror.
Fear, repentance, and remorse were depicted on
every visage; silence succeeded, and the com¬
mandant sought security by a rapid flight.
The Khan had not advanced more than 200
versts, when he saw himself abandoned by all
those who had shown the most implacability against
THE JEWISH CEMETERY.
271
Tamerlane. Alarm seized his whole army, and
even caused the most hardy to retrograde. Lhe
old Prince returned to Tchufut-Kale, accompanied
only by a few horsemen. Unhappily for his am¬
bition, it was only now that his eyes were opened,
and that he experienced remorse, which was car¬
ried to its height by the death of his daughter. It
was on this occasion that he raised the mausoleum
already mentioned, in which the princess and her
husband were interred.
The generosity and noble conduct of the Asiatic
conqueror, Tamerlane ; the heroism, honour, and
fidelity of the Prince of Kiptchak; the ingrati¬
tude, perfidy, disasters, and remorse of Taktamish ;
the reciprocal and steady love of the Princess;
the firmness and faithfulness of the Commandant;
and the tragic death of the Lovers, might furnish
a fine subject for the drama.
But to return to our own subject: we were next
invited by one of the richest merchants of the
place to visit his house. Having seated ourselves
around a low table, vodtki, conserve of roses, bread,
abundance of wines, balls of minced mutton rolled
up in vine leaves, mutton pies, &c. were presented
to us.
We bade the Jews adieu, and speedily arrived at
their charming cemetery, called the “ Valley of Je-
hoshaphat which is well described both by Pallas
and Clarke. Having ascended a hill to the north,
we had an excellent view of the mountain scenery
THE GREEK MONASTERY.
of the Krimea. We then entered a deep glen,
covered with trees and brush-wood, among which
are a great many interesting plants. A shrill
squeaking noise had attracted our notice, which
we now discovered to proceed from Tartar carts,
called Arabas, made entirely of wood. Each has
two great wheels, set very wide asunder, which
are never greased, because, apparently, the Tartars
do not dislike their noise ; and they say that “ no
honest man will grease the wheels of his cart!”
Soon after passing the ruins of an extensive pa¬
lace, called As}dam a, we reached the Greek mo¬
nastery ; which we had remarked in the morning.
This establishment, formed by excavations in the
front of a perpendicular rock, has been described
by Pallas, Clarke, and Castelnau. I nearly agree
with the latter author, who says, “ One must have
a great deal of merit, much self-confidence, or
more than human resignation, in choosing the most
savage, isolated, and frightful place in nature for
a residence. I only consider it as a dungeon per¬
pendicularly situated.” It is now no longer the
residence of monks, but is inhabited by a solitary
couple, an old man and his wife, who are its
keepers. As the calcareous rock is soft, there
could be no great difficulty in cutting out subter¬
ranean chambers; but it is the overhanging position
of part of the rock, without any support, which
renders it singular and frightful. A wooden bal¬
cony is erected in its front, from which we had a
INFLUENCE OF IMAGINATION. ‘273
view of the defile of Tchufut-Kale, and the sur¬
rounding mountains and rocks, a scene singularly
wild and fantastic.
As we entered Baktchiserai, on our return, we
distributed a few small pieces of silver to a Jewish
woman and some children, who immediately gave
notice to their friends. They were soon joined
by a crowd of other women and children, who exhi¬
bited many signs of poverty, who were loud in their
entreaties for assistance, and who showed the
meanness of their spirit in the slavish manner by
which they demonstrated their gratitude.
On the following day I accompanied one of the
party on a second visit to Tchufut-Kale, so as to
be present at divine service, it being the com¬
memoration of God’s giving the commandments to
Moses. Under pretence of seeking the Rabbi,
whom we knew to be in the synagogue, we cau¬
tiously entered the house, and found his wife and
four daughters in the room, in which we had been
received the day before, and in their best dress.
They all endeavoured to run away, except the old
woman, but were prevented. The daughters gazed
at us, and we at them. They were no longer the
Rabbi’s daughters of the preceding day, as seen
when half-veiled through latticed windows. We
had fancied them beautiful as Itouris, imagination
having supplied that which nature had denied. A
nearer view destroyed the illusion. To-day they
were clumsy, pock-marked, and even ugly. They
T
VOL. i.
274 DRESS OF THE KARAITE JEWS.
were excessively shy; and on our approach, they
retreated to the corners of the room. On touch¬
ing some ornaments of the oldest daughter, though
with the mother’s permission, she seemed surprised,
and so alarmed that we feared she would have
fallen into a hysteric fit.
The dress of the females was not calculated to
set off the figure to advantage. Their heads were
covered with low red caps, and their long plaited
hair hung down their backs. Ducats, sequins, and
various other gold coins, formed the ornaments of
their necks. Their exterior garments were beau¬
tiful silk pelisses, which nearly concealed a kind of
short petticoat, worn above their trowsers. Under
their pelisses, they wore broad leather girdles, the
ends of which were joined in front by means of
brass plates, in form of a lock. This girdle passed,
not round the waist, but immediately above the
hips, and destroyed all the symmetry of the female
form. . „
The old lady was quite at her ease with us, and
obliged her daughters to remain in the room. Per¬
haps a small present had its effect in procuring this
condescension ; and the intelligence having been
conveyed among the neighbours, explained, as I
suppose, the cause of the females of Tchufut-Kale,
who had fled from our presence on the preceding
day, having assembled in the streets, and having
eagerly gazed at us through their veils.
We entered the synagogue, and remained during
DIVINE SERVICE.— THE SCOTCH MISSIONARY. 275
part of the service. The Rabbi, robed in white,
and with his face to the altar, sometimes remained
mute, and sometimes spoke with considerable ges¬
ticulation. The congregation was numerous. All
who could make use of it held the Hebrew Psalter
in their hands ; and, at times, accompanied each
other in reading. As a mark of distinction, they
had a white linen scarf thrown over their shoulders,
and small silk bags depending from their left arms.
Those who could not read, had neither books nor
these ornaments; and, among them, w r ere remarked
some youths, but very few adults. The merchant
at whose house we had been entertained, as soon as
he had observed us, ordered chairs, and made signs
for us to remain seated, even when the congrega¬
tion stood up, or knelt, which we received as a
mark of attention, and at the same time of great
liberality.
The morning after our arrival at Baktchiserai the
Rev. Mr. Carruthers, the Scotch Missionary, called
upon us, and invited us to dinner; an invitation
which we readily accepted. This gentleman, with
his wife and family, have been stationed there
for some years; and, at the period of our visit, he
was employed in the study of the Tartar and the
Turkish languages, and in great hopes of being
useful in instructing and converting some of the
Mahomedan inhabitants of the Ivrimea. Accord¬
ing to the following extract from a letter, dated
St. Petersburgh, March the 2d, 1824, it appears
t 2
^76 MERCHANTS OF BAKTCHISERAI.
that he did not deceive himself. “ Private accounts
from the Krimea state, that the Scotch Missionary,
Carruthers, now settled there, proceeds with the
greatest zeal and success in converting the Tartars
to Christianity. A great number of them have
been baptised by him. Colonies are to be estab¬
lished for these converts, and divine service will be
performed in the Tartar language. A Turkish
sheik and learned man is now receiving an educa¬
tion to qualify him for the office of a Christian
priest.”
We determined to profit by the lesson which
the visit to Staroye Ozero afforded us, in order to
get admittance to the houses, to see the females,
and to have an opportunity of observing the cha¬
racter and manners of the Krim Tartars. I there¬
fore purchased a quantity of small leathern purses,
tobacco-bags, pocket-books, and knives, as well as
a number of small silver coins, which were to
be distributed where we stopped to dine, or to
pass the night. We provided ourselves likewise
with hair-bags for our portmanteaus and luggage,
which we found to be a great convenience; and
also with Tartar whips, for which we had little
occasion.
As at Sympheropolc the native merchants of
Baktehiserai were cunning and imposing, and
asked double, treble, and quadruple the real value
of any article, as its fixed price.
The superintendant having refused with disdain
JOURNEY FROM BAKTCHISERAI TO SEVASTOPOLE. 277
a twenty-five-rouble note, we made a present of it
to the people and soldiers about the palace, and
took leave of Baktchiserai, on the 15th of May.
The ride from Baktchiserai to Sevastopole, in
fine weather, is really delightful. Six versts from
the first town we crossed the Katcha, which flows
through a delicious valley; and, soon afterwards,
we entered a fine and extensive vale, through which
the road winds along the course of the Belbek or
Kabarta, till within three or four versts of the bay
of Sevastopole. A singular contrast here presented
itself: on the right we beheld white and brown cal¬
careous hills, sterile as imagination can conceive,
whose base was diversified by broken rocks, and
patches of naked clayey soil peeping through
parched grass, and enlivened only by a few stunted
shrubs and blooming wild flowers. On the left,
stretched a plain of most luxuriant pasture,
bounded by gentle hills and lofty mountains,
covered by woods and plantations, gardens, nurse¬
ries, and vineyards. The road, cut through the
base of the hills, forms, as it were, a line of de¬
marcation between the most luxuriant vegetation
and almost total sterility. We quitted this delight¬
ful valley, and soon came in sight of a fine bay of
the Black Sea ; and, having ascended a hill, Sevas¬
topole, with its celebrated port, greeted our view.
Finding a good inn by the bank of the bay, kept
by a Greek, we here took up our lodging, instead
of crossing immediately to that town, as we had
278 THE' CAVERNS OF 1NKERMAN.
intended. After we had made some arrangements,
we set off in a four-oared boat, to examine the
well-known caverns of Inkerman. As we glided
along the bay of Achtiar, we remarked various
inlets, or ports, upon which were situated nu¬
merous small edifices, as the bakehouse, the bis¬
cuit storehouse, and other establishments connected
with the navy of Sevastopole. One of them was
especially pointed out to us, with gardens around
it, where a promenade of the inhabitants of that
town takes place every Sunday during summer.
The Russians, not content with the annihilation
of ancient Kherson, have also destroyed many of
the caverns in this neighbourhood, for the sake of
the stones. We saw the remains of a fine grotto at
a distance ; but perhaps, ere this time, they have
totally disappeared ; and, if Sevastopole continues
to increase, notwithstanding the orders of the
Emperor to the contrary, it is probable that Inker-
man will soon become a mass of ruins. Some of
its caverns are converted into powder-magazines,
some into stables and cow-houses, and others are
filled with carts and harness for oxen, while a
number are fitted up as habitations by the Tartars.
Indeed, many are already in ruins, and others in a
state of decay ; and not a few threaten to fall in,
their pillars having been broken down also, for the
sake of the stones. Almost all of them have been
used, at some period, as dwellings, as was shown
by their roofs, blackened by the smoke of former
THE CAVERNS OF INKERIUAN.
279
blazing hearths. Taken as a whole, the caverns
on the Sevastopol side of the bay, now exhibit
a labyrinth of irregularity and disorder. The small
chapel represented by Pallas, however, remains
nearly in the state in which he described it; no
impious hand having, as yet, dared to violate its
sanctity. While walking about, we remarked that
the perpendicular rock, in many places, was, as it
were, daubed over with Greek and Hebrew cha¬
racters. A very distinct and nearly square speci¬
men, of great size, I compared with the tables
of the decalogue.
We crossed to the opposite mountain, by a small
bridge upon the Bijuk-Uzen, which is believed to
have been constructed in remote times. This
mountain is overtopped by an old castle, and is so
filled with open grottos, arranged, as it were, in
stories one above the other, that it has been com¬
pared to an immense bee-hive. The rock, whose
base is mined by great caverns, rises perpendicu¬
larly, and appears suspended and ready to fall. Two
grottos, which have corresponding stairs, form the
entrance to a small chapel, of which Pallas has
also given a vignette. Through a series of caverns
and narrow passages we ascended to the top of the
hill, enjoyed a beautiful view of the Krimea, and
examined the ancient castle of Inkerman, the
thick walls and towers of which are held together
by a kind of marly cement.
Inkerman means the town of caverns, and few
t 4
280 THE CAVERNS OF 1NKERMAN.
appellations are so appropriate. Pallas expressed
his uncertainty whether this place served as a strong
hold at the epoch of the Khersonite Greeks, and
ought to be regarded with Formaleoni, as the
Ctenos of the ancients, or whether the Genoese
were its founders, which he thought more probable.
He believed that the caverns belonged to a more
remote period, and were the work of monks, under
the emperors of the middle age, or of modern times.
As it is related by the Byzantine historians, that
the Khersonites were of the sect of Arians, and
that this sect, so numerous in the East, at length
endured many persecutions in the “ has empire,”
he thought it very probable, that a great number of
monks, and of their proselytes, retired to ancient
Kherson; where, not having been able to find an
asylum, they dug these caverns, and built chapels in
the calcareous rock in many parts of the Taurida;
and that they there continued the exercises of their
religious life, perhaps with the hope of converting
the savage inhabitants of the country. The fact
that similar caverns are found in various parts of
the Krimea,— as, near the village of Karan i; near
Balaklava; in the district of Karakoba; near Man-
koop ; at the village of Schulii; at Tipe-Kermen
and Kis-Kerman ; at the village of Schurii; near
Tchufut Kale, &c. — seems to give strength to this
account. Dr. Clarke adopted the opinion of Pallas.
The Russian historian, Mr. Stchekatof*, who is fol-
Slovar Geographitchcskii Rossiiskaho Gosudarstva.
THE CAVERNS OF INKERMAN.
281
lowed by Mr. Vsevolojskii*, says decidedly, that In-
kerman was the ancient Doros built by Deophantus,
one of the generals of Mithridates t, and the Ctenos
of the Greeks, according to Strabo and Formaleoni.
It is also said, that the Khosars took it in 679,
from the Goths, who re-took it towards the end of
the eighth century, but again lost it; that, from
the year 1204, it had its own princes, among whom
may be reckoned Constantine, the last emperor of
the East, before his elevation to the throne; and
that the Turks captured it in 1495, and placed a
garrison there, but, as it had lost infinitely in its
importance, they abandoned it to the Tartars.
Castelnau says, that history has given him no in¬
formation about Inkerman, whose name, as well
as that of all the other towns in the Krimea, has
been often changed. He conjectures that it has
suffered the fate of ancient Kherson, spoken of
hereafter; and says that its fortifications bear marks
of the same kind of construction as was employed
by the Genoese for their fortresses. With re¬
spect to the caverns, he questions whether they
served as a retreat to the persecuted; whether they
were excavated by the Khersonites, for the use of
their troops; or whether pious persons who had
renounced the world had retired to them, in order,
* Dictionnaire Geographique-Historique, de l’Empire dc
Russie; also Histoire dela Tauride, Introduction, p. 20.
f Dr, Clarke likewise adopted the same opinion with respect
to the fortress of Inkerman. — Travels , p. 492.
282
THE CAVERNS OF INKERMAN.
by privation, to lead better lives. He adds, that it
must not be concluded that they were inhabited by
Christians alone, because chapels are found among
the grottos; and he does not believe that “ un
principe de religion” ever excavated these subter¬
ranean chambers, and still less, that it was able to
have peopled them; and he well remarks,,that
they are so numerous about Inkerman, that an
army could be lodged in them. One of his own
friends, however, a “ savant respectable ,” with
whose name we are not made acquainted, says
decidedly, that these caverns appeared to him to
have served as a retreat to a great number of
Christians, during different persecutions ; that St.
Clement, the third Pope, was there exiled, and
afterwards St. Martin, a relation of Domitian’s,
and other persons of his court; that it was, after
Corsica, the Siberia of the Romans; and that
those who died were interred in the cells which
they had formed at their arrival. *
I think it probable that the ancient inhabitants of
the Krimea found subterranean abodes agreeable,
during the heat of the summer, and also found it
easier to enlarge natural caverns, or even to excavate
* It is said that human bones have been found in the caverns
of the Krimean mountains; hence some have been inclined to
think that they were excavated as places for interring the dead.
This seems so very vague a conjecture as not to require
refutation.—Vide Description Physique de la Tauridc , a Paris ,
1802.
INSALUBRITY OF THE AIR.
283
chambers in the soft calcareous rock, than to cut
the stones, and thence to build houses. Hence, co¬
lonies, or towns of caverns, if I may so speak, may
have been gradually formed. Or, perhaps, in wars
which were waged between the subjects of the King
of the Bosphorus, properly so called, and the Tauri-
dans or Khersonites, the soldiers, having been en¬
camped in the vicinity of cavernous mountains, be¬
took themselves to their protection when the weather
was very warm or inclement; and, having thus found
their utility, excavated numerous cells on purpose.
The insalubrity of the air of the valley of In-
kerman is proverbial in the Kriinea; hence it is
difficult to conceive how a great number of monks
should have resided here. According to Pallas,
those who are sent hither for the purpose of making
hay, or to herd cattle, cannot avoid the con¬
tagion of an intermittent fever; and he asks, if
persons who come to this place are taken ill in
consequence of having breathed the morning or
the evening air, what must those have experienced
who were continually exposed to the malignity of
its influence, when the wind which blew from the
bay occasioned diseases even at Achtiar ? But it
might be replied, that the natives may have lost
their susceptibility to contagion. Pallas thinks
that the only evident natural cause of these fe¬
vers is to be attributed to the exhalations of con¬
siderable marshes, which are often inundated by
the sea, and which surround the embouchure of
284
SALTPETRE MANUFACTORY.
the stream, Bijuk-Uzen, at the end of the gulpli.
These marshes have been called the cemetery of the
Russian army, since the conquest of the Krimea;
but the government now takes care to canton the
troops at some distance from them.
Pallas, long ago, spoke of the “ charming valley
of Inkerman, covered with verdure,” and with
great truth ; but when Dr. Clarke calls it “ per¬
haps the most beautiful valley in Europe,” I
must think that he greatly over-rated it.
It was remarked by Pallas, that the earth in the
neighbourhood of Inkerman was full of saltpetre ;
and, indeed, in fine weather, when it is dried by
the sun, this salt is very visible by its efflorescence,
and very sensible to the taste. A few years ago,
the crown took advantage of this production, and
established here a manufactory of saltpetre. The
earth is transported to it from a very short distance,
and thrown into immense wooden tubs ; water is
then poured upon it until a strong brine, or satu¬
rated solution, is obtained, which is evaporated,
purified, and crystallised. A considerable quan¬
tity of this salt is annually made at this manufac¬
tory.
About a quarter of a verst from the nitre-fabric,
we remarked an enormous insulated mass of lime¬
stone, of a laminated structure, which, being some¬
thing like a house, has a singular appearance in the
plain.
from the fortifications of Inkerman, we beheld
LOCUSTS.
285
a crowd of Tartars, probably 200, armed with
branches of trees tied together and with clubs, who
were occupied in the destruction of the locusts,
by beating them against the ground. Although we
often met with locusts, in the Krimea, and during
our journey in the Caucasus and Georgia, we
never saw them in swarms, like clouds passing be¬
fore the sun, and darkening the air, as they have
frequently been described. On the contrary, they
seldom rose above two or three feet from the
ground; but when we rode among them, they
sprung around us in myriads. At different periods
they have desolated the Krimea like a plague;
“ fields, vineyards, gardens, pastures, every thing”
has been laid waste, and almost every green leaf
has been consumed. For three years before our
arrival these insects had ravaged different parts of
the peninsula, and had baffled all the measures of
the government for their destruction. Different
acrid compositions, especially quicklime, had been
spread over the soil in those places where they
chiefly seemed to be generated, but in the follow¬
ing summers they appeared in as great numbers as
before. This has given rise to the idea, that they
deposit their eggs deep in the earth, and that they
are thus preserved from the effects of cold, and
the efforts made to destroy them, as they appear
again with the genial heat of summer. The governor
of the Krimea had given orders for the Tartars
to assemble in bodies, and to attack them while
28 G
ARRIVAL AT SEVASTOPOLE.
young, in the manner above described, on those
spots which seemed most prolific; but this mea¬
sure had no better success. The winter of 1822-3
proved extremely severe in the Krimea, and it
was hoped that the cold would reach and destroy
their eggs, but I have not heard of the result.
From what Pallas says on this subject, however,
the hopes of the inhabitants were not founded
upon experience ; for the rigorous winters of 1799
and 1800 in place of diminishing this destructive
scourge, appeared, on the contrary, to have been
favourable to its extension.
We crossed a magnificent bay to Sevastopole,
which was founded in the year 1786. This town
is often called Achtiar, after the name of a Tartar
village which stood on the north side of the bay, at
the distance of three versts from Inkerman. We
delivered several letters of introduction to the
admirals, generals, &c. who were stationed there.
In reply to our enquiry with respect to the objects
deserving attention, besides the port and the docks,
a Russian of high rank emphatically said, “ That
almost every thing worthy of observation was now
annihilated; the devastation having been nearly
completed within the last few years.” He likewise
informed us that the Emperor, on his visit here in
the year 1818, expressed deep regret at the de¬
struction which had been made, and gave strict
orders for the preservation of all the remnants of
antiquity then visible ; but this imperial mandate
ANECDOTE.-ADMIRAL BAILLIE.
287
came like a reprieve to a man who had already
suffered the sentence of the law. It shows an
amiable disposition however; but the antiquarian
and the historian will equally regret that His Ma¬
jesty should have reigned eighteen years, before he
thought of the fate of ancient Kherson and its
neighbourhood, which is so feelingly and so justly
depicted by Clarke.
Admiral-received us politely, and ap¬
pointed an officer to accompany us to the port,
docks, &c. He said he was sorry he could not
invite us to dinner, because he was engaged at
General-’s, rather an unfortunate commu¬
nication, but which led to another illustration
of the Russian character. We next went to the
house of the general to whom the Admiral had
alluded; and, while speaking to the servant, the
doors being open, we remarked a table set out in
a handsome hall for a large party. The servant
conducted us to the General, who was walking in
an adjoining garden. He was very polite, said he
should be very happy to serve us, and was ex¬
tremely sorry that he was going to dine at a friend’s,
or he woidd have invited us to dinner.
We next called upon Admiral Baillie, a native
of Liverpool, who had been nearly forty years in
the Russian service. We found him a plain, open
man, who had many of the characteristics of the
“ seafaring profession.” He was in a very bad
state of health, but our presence seemed to ani-
288
ROGUERY.
mate him. H f e remarked that there was a great
difference between the state of' the Krimea when he
first knew it and its present state; and an officer
said that it was a “ devastated pays ,”—a mix¬
ture of English and French which was very par¬
donable, as we spoke both of those languages at
the time. It was also observed, that though nature
had given such a fine port as that of Sevastopole
to the Krimea, yet it was purely a naval port; and
when we enquired why there was no commerce at
this town, we were answered, by a gentleman, in
these few but significant words, “ Because the
Russians never do any thing right.” Mr. Heber,
however, mentions in Clarke’s Travels, that the
reason assigned for this circumstance was the em¬
bezzlement of the public stores, which were sold to
the merchants by the government officers, almost
without shame.
That the sale of the public stores should have
been excessive, and shamefully undisguised, in the
days of Catherine II. and of Paul, is not surprising,
and especially at such a distance as Sevastopole,
where, nearly secure from the cognisance of the
crown, the officers had it in their power to deceive
the government by false reports, and to defraud it
to a great extent. As the mass of the officers,
with scarcely any exceptions, were equally con¬
cerned in these detestable transactions, so all came
in for a share of the spoil, which assisted them to
live; their revenues being inadequate to enable
ROGUERY.
289
them to support their rank in life. No one could
inform against another ; and when a discovery of
embezzlement was made, it was of no utility. To
punish a few individuals would have been partial
and unjust, and might have caused a general re¬
volt; to punish the whole was impossible. Nor
could even the common sailors be justly chastised,
when detection was made of their transactions,
since they were sometimes the agents of their supe¬
riors ; and, when not so, they only pursued a lower
branch of the same system of iniquity which pre¬
vailed among their commanders. The embezzle¬
ment and sale of the public stores is still continued
in all the ports of Russia. I myself have seen
sail-cloth called old, because it had been made into
the form of sails—although the sewing was only per¬
formed to be cut out again — blocks, pullies, ropes,
and other articles of ship’s tackle which had never
been used, on board merchant ships, whose captains
confessed that they “ had bought them from the
Russian sailors,” at a very low price; and it is
notorious that few ships leave Cronstadt without a
portion of the stores of his Imperial Majesty’s
fleet. The men cheat in retail, but the officers
pursue the same system wholesale. Nor will this
pilfering practice — by long usage and necessity
an established custom — be removed, till a new
organisation of the Russian government takes
place, which will provide for the actual subsistence
of its officers in an honourable manner. When their
VOL. i.
u
290 COLLECTION OP CATS.—BAY OF SEVASTOPOLE.
pay fails they must either starve or cheat, and, as
may easily be believed, they generally choose the
latter alternative. It appears, then, that Paul was
justifiable in putting an end to all commercial in¬
tercourse with Sevastopole. No doubt he thought
he had no other resource for the eradication of a
villanous system; and Alexander may suppose he
has no other guarantee to prevent its renewal.
But it may be questioned how far the plan has
succeeded, or whether new methods have not been
discovered by the officers to replace the former
advantages.
We dined with a party at Admiral Baillic’s, and
were much amused by a collection of European,
Asiatic, and African cats, which this eccentric in¬
dividual had assembled around him, and which
seemed to have usurped the places and appellations
of children. The real Moscow, and the Neapoli¬
tan varieties, were the most numerous ; and of both
he had some choice specimens.
The bay of Sevastopole, with its various ports,
is one of the finest harbours in Europe, or indeed
in the world. It has been described with such
minuteness by Pallas, Clarke, and Castelnau, as to
render all detail a work of supererogation. The
chart of it, contained in Clarke’s Travels, as well
as the paper which he deposited in our admiralty,
must prove of the greatest utility, in the event of it
ever becoming necessary for the British to make an
attack in this quarter of the globe.
FLEET OF THE BLACK SEA.
2'J 1
According to the author of’the “ Life of Cathe¬
rine II.,” in the year 1793, the fleet of the Black
Sea consisted of eight ships of the line, of from
sixty-six to seventy-four guns, and twelve frigates,
of from thirty-six to forty guns, which were sta¬
tioned at Sevastopol and Hadjibey, now Odessa ;
and of 200 chebeks, gun-boats, and other small
vessels with oars, at Nikolaef and Adji-der, now
Ovidiopole, upon the liman of the Dnt'ster. By
Castelnau’s account, in the year 1817, it consisted
of
12 Ships of the line, carrying 91S guns.
4? Frigates - - - 162
7 Brigantines - - 54?
18 Small vessels - 91
1225 guns.
Besides a flotilla composed of forty gun-boats,
carrying fifty-two cannons, and eighty falcons. In
the year 1822, this fleet, according to the best autho¬
rity, was composed of fourteen ships of the line and
ten frigates, besides numerous small craft, as gun¬
boats, &c.
From our inn, Sevastopol appeared quite in
amphitheatre on the south side of the port, and had
a very lively appearance, in consequence of its
white walls and gaudy domes rising amid green
trees, and the noble sheet of water, covered by nu¬
merous vessels, in the fore ground. *
* Pallas has given a view of Sevastopole f but it cannot be
praised.
292
DESCRIPTION OF SEVASTOPOLE.
The streets of Sevastopole are all wide and regu¬
lar, and intersect each other at right angles; but
none of them are paved. The houses have of late
been increasing in number, and are extremely good,
and all in the modern Italian style of architecture.
A public garden, with different terraces^ rising over
each other, which has been lately formed upon an
elevation in the middle of the town, has a most
pleasing effect, and commands a general view of
the neighbourhood. The edifices which are chiefly
deserving of notice are two churches, besides a
third in the docks; the admiralty; the arsenal;
the hospital; the magazines; the barracks of the
garrison 5 and the marine barracks. As is evident
by the statement of the population, when we sub¬
tract the edifices of the crown, and the houses of
the various naval, military, and civil officers, sta¬
tioned here, little else remains to form Sevastopole ;
and yet, agreeably to the lately published statistical
map of the Krimea, this town contains 1750 houses.
I have found few accounts of the population of
Sevastopole in the works of travellers or geogra¬
phers. Pallas, Clarke, Stchekatof, Vsevolojskii,
and Castelnau, are silent on this point. Stchekatof,
indeed, informs us, that besides the native inha¬
bitants, the Tartars, and some Greek Jews, had
settled many years ago in this town. Mrs.
Holderness, in 1821, stated its population at 14,000
or 15,000 souls ; but the fixed inhabitants did not
exceed 3000; the rest consisted of those employed
POPULATION OF SEVASTOP OLE. Q9$
in the fleet, &c. In the year 1822, its general po¬
pulation, including active and retired officers, sol¬
diers and sailors, as well as the burgesses, was esti¬
mated at 22,000 souls: but I strongly suspect that
this was extravagant. The civil part of the inhabit¬
ants did not exceed 2000; of course its popula¬
tion will be greatly diminished whenever the fleet
puts to sea.
Sevastopol, as might be expected from its being
the residence of so many naval and military officers,
is well supplied with the necessaries and the luxuries
of life, though at high prices ; but good water is
not abundant, and fuel is dear.
CHAR VII.
DEPARTURE FROM SEVASTOPOLE. — SERVICE OF THE TARTARS.
— ANCIENT CIIERSONESUS. — ST. GEORGE^ MONASTERY.—
VALE OF BALAKLAVA. - COLONEL REVOLIOTI.-BALAK-
LAVA. — GREEK SOLDIERS.-CONQUEST OF THE KRIMEA.-
RUSSIAN ARMY.— FORTRESS OF BALAKLAVA. — ITS PORT.—
MOUNTAIN ROADS.— THE VALLEY OF BAIDAR.— THE VIL¬
LAGE OF BAIDAR.-THE PASS OF MEERDVEEN.-SOUTH
COAST OF THE KRIMEA.— KUTCIIUK-KOI_KIKENIS. -
AMUSEMENTS. — SIMJEUS.— ALYUPKA. —TARTAR VILLAGES.
-TARTAR HOUSES. — SUBJECTION OF THE TARTARS. —
YALTA. — GREEK MONASTERY. — NIKITA. —ITS BOTANIC
GARDEN. — YURSUF. — AYU-DAGH. — KUTCHUK-LAM-
PAT. — SCHISTUS. — ALUSIITA. — KURU-UZEN. — KUTCHUK-
UZEN.—ARRIVAL AT USKUT. — TARTAR WORSHIP. —TCHU-
BAN-KALE.,-KAPSOCIIOR.— KUTLAK.
Before leaving Sevastopol we laid in a stock of
tea, coffee, sugar, See. for our meditated trip round
DEPARTURE FROM SEVASTOPOLE. 2Q5
the south coast of the peninsula, and also a few
pounds of wax candles, which were of great use
in different places, where no kind of candles were
to be found. Though we could have gone in the
carriages to Balaklava, yet, the weather being fine,
we infinitely preferred riding, and our transla¬
tor easily procured, from the Tartar peasants, the
requisite number of horses for ourselves, servants,
and luggage. If the traveller be very fastidious,
he should bring a saddle with him. Two of our
party, after much trouble, succeeded in purchasing
old saddles made in the English style, but they
paid a very extravagant price for them. The rest
of us were content with the saddles used by the
Tartars, which consist of wooden frames and
leathern cushions, each quite distinct. The frame
being placed over a cloth on the horse’s back, is
then covered with the cushion, and the whole is
secured by a broad girth.
The Greatest service our translator rendered us,
was by preceding us to the stations, and preparing
a change of horses. After we had made two or
three stages, the Tartars not only served us with
pleasure, but with solicitude. The cause of this
was easily explained. We paid them regularly at
the rate of eight kopeeks per verst for each horse,
agreeably to our j'irmaii, besides making them
small presents. The reports of those Tartars who
had served us, being to our advantage, had a great
effect upon those with whom we were total
u 4
296
SERVICE OF THE TARTARS.
strangers, and made them perform their duty with
willingness and alacrity, as far as we could judge
by their countenances, and by the unusual quick¬
ness of their movements. It is not to be wondered
at, that not only the Russians, but the Tartars of
the Krimea, the Kozaks in Mount Caucasus, and
the Georgians, should show no great willingness
to serve the officers of the army, or even many of
the nobles, of the autocratic dominions. Their
haughty, overbearing conduct is intolerable ; and,
what is worse, they neither reward them for their
own, nor their horses’ labour; or they give them
any sum, which they themselves judge to be
enough. During our journey, the distance was
always reckoned by the hour’s ride ; allowing five
versts per hour for mountain roads ; stoppages not
included. The Tartars and the translator generally
arranged the distances between them ; and though,
I believe, the latter favoured the former, and, most
probably, received a premium for so doing, yet we
liked the Tartars so much, that we winked at
any little deception, but I always paid the money
into their own hands, so as to be sure that it all
reached them.
The traveller who wishes to examine the coast
of the Krimea with minuteness, should provide
himself with the works of Strabo, Pallas, Clarke,
and Holderness; and the great and magnificent
map of this peninsula which was lately published
at the Depot dc Cartes at Petersburg!!. The
ANCIENT CHE11S0NESUS. 297
botanist will add to these, the Flora Tauro-Cau-
casica, by Marschall a Bieberstein.
Soon after leaving Sevastopol, we arrived at the
quarantine, well situated on a small bay ; and then
made a detour from the road to the site of the an¬
cient Chersonesus, whose former grandeur, public
edifices, temples, aqueducts, walls, and towers, had
been the admiration of remote ages; and whose
majestic ruins had filled even the ignorant and
superstitious Krimean Tartars with surprise and
reverence. Among them was found no sacrilegious
hand, which dared to violate these remains of an¬
tiquity. The Russians had no such feelings; and
Dr. Clarke, with his usual enthusiasm, very ex¬
cusable on such an occasion, has drawn a fright¬
ful picture of the general havoc and devastation
which followed their track. Pallas has well
said, that the construction of Achtiar finished the
ruin of this ancient capital; but Castelnau over¬
stepped the truth, when he asserted, a few years
ago, “ On ne recommit ni la trace des rues, ni les
vestiges d’un seul edifice : on a remud les murs jusque
dans les entrailles cle la terre for even at the
epoch of our visit in May 1822, the ruins of a
very large edifice remained. Immense thick walls,
at one place penetrated by a low arch, rose to the
height of six or eight feet above the level of the
ground, and were held together by the same kind
of marly cement which we had remarked at the
castle of Inkerman ; and, besides, great quantities
298
ANCIENT CHERSONESUS.
of stones lay scattered upon the plain. Perhaps,
ere this, not a stone indicates where stood the
ancient Kherson; for although the Emperor has
ordered all antiquities to be preserved, what we
saw were really not worth preserving, and only
tended to fill the mind with more gloom and in¬
dignation, than a tabula rasa. The memory of
Kherson now exists only in books. Sevastopole
has usurped its place; and, in its turn, may be
supplanted by some other city. Our posterity, a
few hundred years hence, may be occupied in
collecting and describing the columns, the capitals,
and the arches, and in deciphering the inscriptions
on the stones and marble slabs of Kherson, among
the ruins of Sevastopole.
Kherson has long been famed in Russia, on
account of the baptism of Vladimir having taken
place within its walls. I am, therefore, the more
surprised that the Russian government, or the
Russians themselves, did not feel a religious vener¬
ation for the ruins of a city where their great
duke was made a member of that faith which he
afterwards introduced into his territories, and which
they themselves still profess.
The coins of ancient Kherson are represented
by Pallas, Castelnau, &c., to whose works the
antiquarian is referred.
Quitting the site of Kherson, our road lay
through a barren district, varied only by a few
scattered stones. It formed part of the Heracleotic
st. george’s monastery. 2!)<J
Chersonesus, which was bounded by a line run¬
ning from Sevastopol, or, more probably, from
Inkerman, to Balaklava. Upon it historians and
antiquarians have exhausted all research. Having
passed a farm-house, which rose cheerfully in the
plain, we soon reached the sea-coast, and St.
George’s monastery. Pallas has given a view of
this convent, which he justly esteemed interest¬
ing, both on account of its situation, among the
surrounding bold scenery, and the mineralogy of
the rocks : it is also an excellent spot for the re¬
searches of the botanist. Yet Castelnau, though he
avows that the situation of the monastery is pic¬
turesque, remarks that the view of the sea-coast is
the same as in a hundred places of the mountain¬
ous part of the Krimea. A small chapel with
columns, erected about eight years ago, and some
other new edifices, have a good deal altered the
appearance of St. George’s monastery since Pallas’s
plate and vignette were published; but Nature is
still the same, — still equally grand and majestic.
Here is another small chapel, besides the houses of
the monks, who have a most enviable residence.
St. George’s is a Greek monastery, and can
admit thirteen monks ; but, at our visit, it was
inhabited by five solitary individuals. Its supe¬
rior, Platon, was born in Little Russia, but is ne¬
cessarily decended from Greek parents. He
treated us with votdki, bread, butter, cheese, wine,
300
VALE OF BALAKLAVA.
&c., luxuries which we little expected to have
found in this hermitage,
Above the convent, and on the lofty brow of the
hill, is placed a very small chapel, with George
and the Dragon cut in stone upon its lintel, and
which is said by Pallas to have been erected by a
Greek, who died near this spot.
It has been supposed that somewhere near the
monastery of St. George, there was a fane of the
daemon virgin, fanum dcnnonis virginis, where
perished the bloody sacrifices of Diana; but the
exact spot has not been yet determined, and it
seems madness to attempt it, as there is not now
the smallest vestige of a temple in the vicinity of
this convent. Besides, it seems uncertain to which
of the heathen goddesses the dmrnon of Strabo may
be referred. Pallas was inclined to believe that
the promontory called Aja-Burun, was the Parthe-
nium of this author, and that some ruins which he
found there were those of the said temple. Others
suppose that it stood upon the Cape of St. George,
which they reckon the Parthenium of Strabo. Of
this promontory Dr. Clarke has given an excellent
view.
From St. George’s monastery our road turned
to the north-east, over a plain, with a ridge of
mountains on our right, and then through the
vale of Balaklava. This vale, for the most part,
is surrounded by barren hills and bleak scenery.
L)r. Clarke’s description is assuredly only applica-
VALE OF BALAKLAVA.-COLONEL REVOLIOTI. 301
ble to a part of it, and not to the whole: “ So
much,” says he, “ has been said by travellers of the
famous valley of Baidar, that the vale of Balaklava,
which is hardly surpassed by any prospect in the
Krimea, has hitherto escaped notice. Yet the wild,
gigantic landscape which, towards its southern ex¬
tremity surrounds the town; its mountains, its
ruins, and its harbour — the houses covered by
vines and flowers, and overshadowed by the thick
foliage of mulberry and walnut trees, make it al¬
together enchanting.” *
Our luggage, which had been despatched by a
shorter road, under the care of our interpreter and
the Tartars, had arrived before us, and our ap¬
proach had been announced. At the barrier of Ba¬
laklava, an under-officer met us, and, with Colonel
Revolioti’s compliments, invited us to dinner.
Three Greek soldiers armed with sabres and
fusils, who mounted guard at this place, presented
to us quite a novel appearance by their singular
uniform. It consisted of black helmets, dark
green embroidered jackets, and red trowsers, ex¬
tremely wide, and confined below the knees by high
boots, t
Colonel Revolioti gave us an excellent dinner,
and plenty of wine. Among other dishes, minced
* Clarkes Travels, p. 503.
•J* See Pallas’s tenth plate. Their trowsers seem to have been
then differently arranged. The' same plate also contains a fe¬
male figure. Mrs. Holderness’s frontispiece does not corre¬
spond with my observations.
302 BALAKLAVA.-GREEK SOLDIERS..
meat rolled up in vine leaves, as at Tchufut-Kale,
was presented, which we found very good.
The town of Balaklava is formed of a principal
narrow winding street, besides different lanes, and
houses scattered among the sloping rocks, the most
conspicuous of which is a new school upon an emi¬
nence near the barrier, in which the children are
taught modern Greek, and, I believe, also Russian
and Tartar. The town, the port, and the ruins of
the castle of Balaklava, are well depicted in Pallas’s
ninth plate.
The population of Balaklava cannot be very
great, since its houses are only sixty in number.
According to the nearest estimate I could make,
from the data afforded me, I suppose it contains
about 1000 or 1200 souls, men, women, and chil¬
dren ; all Arnaout Greeks, or their descendants.
Balaklava was formerly occupied by the Tartars ;
but, after their emigration, when the Krimea was
seized by the Russians, it was given up to the
Greek regiment which now garrisons the place.
This regiment distinguished itself in the service of
Russia against the Turks in the Archipelago. Its
whole number amounts to 450 men, who are
commanded by Colonel Revolioti, their country¬
man. Balaklava is their head-quarters; but part
of the commando, forming a cordon, are scattered
along the south coast of the Krimea. The soldiers
have assuredly found a delicious retreat, and pass
their lives in great ease. Their whole duty is to
CONQUEST OF THE KRIMEA.-RUSSIAN ARMY. 303
maintain internal peace, and to guard a coast which
is never approached by an enemy ; and, were
an attack expected, no doubt the Greeks would
be reinforced immediately, or perhaps removed
from their station, and replaced by Russian troops.
At the same time it must be allowed, that they
have hitherto maintained their fidelity to Russia,
and now have cause to show gratitude, and to
fight for a charming country, which a long resi¬
dence has rendered their own. Clarke was of
opinion, however, that this band of Greeks woidd
have been ready to have joined any European in¬
vader, or to have fled at his approach. But that
author, in stating that “ any experienced general,
from the armies of England, France, or Germany,
might pledge his reputation for the capture of the
Krimea with a thousand men,” no doubt spoke as
hyperbolically, as when he gravely informed us that
the force of the Russian empire was “ a mere pup¬
pet-show or that it was “ Punch, with all his fa¬
mily ; or a herd of swine in armour, who endured
hard blows, kicks, and canes, with perfect patience,
but were incapable of activity or effect.” This author
often delights us with the lively extravagancies both
of his pencil and his pen. Few persons can regard
the representation — or, as I would call it, the
caricature — of a “ Russian sentinel at his Post,”
which decorates the head of the twenty-first chap¬
ter of his work, without laughing. His account of
the metamorphosis of a Russian peasant into a
304 CONQUEST OF THE KRIMEA.-RUSSIAN ARMY.
“ chop-fallen, stupid, brow-beaten, sullen clown,”
the moment he enters the ranks of the army, is
equally amusing, and forms a wonderful contrast
to the statement of Sir R. Wilson, which I have
already quoted. *
The wonders achieved by Suvarof, in Italy, with
40,000 men, as Clarke was conscious of, were not
in accord with his own statements; and, although
the qualifications of that general peculiarly fitted
him for the command of Russian troops, the learned
professor, beyond all question, attributed too much
of his success to his individuality, if I may so
speak. Two years after Clarke’s Travels were pub¬
lished, the campaign of 1812, and especially the
battle of Borodino, gave a true illustration of the
composition, of the elite at least, of the Russian
army; and the general result of the war, might
lead us to believe, that in proportion as the mili¬
tary character and effect of that army was under¬
rated by Dr. Clarke, it had been previously unduly
exalted by Sir R. Wilson.
When the Krimea is to be attacked, even though
suddenly, the forces of the invading army ought,
at least, to equal the whole troops in the peninsula,
which generally amount to 10,000 or 15,000 men y
so that a decisive blow might be struck, and the
fortress and lines of Perekop instantly seized.
But, it is to be presumed, when this is to be done.
* Vide page 139—140.
THE FORTRESS OF BALAKLAVA.
305
that a powerful army will already have taken pos¬
session of the south of Russia, and that the conquest
of the Krimea will only be an accessory part of
some great plan. But it is time to return to our
travels.
The fortress of Balaklava, with its numerous
towers, stands upon an almost inaccessible rock, and
is conjectured by Pallas to have been built by the
Greeks, and repaired by the Genoese. Its present
appearance, however, and general consent, favour
the opinion that it was altogether erected by the
Genoese, when they had the command of the coast
of the Krimean peninsula. The view of it becomes
more and more picturesque and sublime, by the
frequent downfall of some of its battlements and
walls. A light-house, which was erected among its
ruins, is sharing the same fate, as well as another
upon the opposite side of the entrance of the bay.
Numerous rare plants have taken root and flourish
here; and I was a good deal surprised to find
the Tauric Asphodel, on the very top of the
rock; a plant which I had previously remarked as
decorating the plain near Sympheropole.
Dr. Clarke’s work contains an excellent view of
this ancient fortress.
The port of Balaklava is completely sheltered by
high craggy hills; and, its mouth being narrow,
even when the billows roll mountain-high at its
entrance, its waters are smooth as those of an inland
lake. Its length is not much above a mile, and its
VOL. i.
x
306
THE PORT OF BALAKLAVA.
breadth about 200 fathoms, while its depth, even
near the shore, varies from fifteen to eighteen,
and twenty fathoms. The entrance is so confined,
that it would be difficult for two vessels to enter
this port at a time.
Notwithstanding some dangerous rocks near the
mouth of the port of Balaklava, it often served
as a place of refuge to vessels which were driven
upon the coast, and could not double Cape Fanari.
But Pallas, with his usual caution, informs us that,
as it was impossible to prevent smuggling, and the
consequent dangers of the plague, merchant vessels
were forbidden to enter it : a measure which
caused many shipwrecks, and which reflects the
disgrace of barbarous inhumanity upon those who
ordered, or who permitted it. But this is not all,
for, according to Clarke, “ If any ill-fated mariner,
driven by tempests, sought a shelter in the port
of Balaclava, during the reign of Paul, he was
speedily driven out again, or sunk, by an enemy
as inhospitable as the wind or the waves. The
inhabitants had small pieces of artillery stationed
on the heights, with the most positive orders,
from that insane tyrant, to fire at any vessel which
should presume to take refuge there.” * If, how¬
ever, I am properly informed, the said pieces of
artillery were placed on purpose to make signals ;
and, though I know enough of Paul’s mad actions,
* Clarke’s Travels, p. 504.
MOUNTAIN ROADS.—VALLEY OF BAIDAR. 307
yet I can scarcely credit the above report. The
light-houses on each side of the harbour were for¬
merly in use ; and I cannot comprehend the cause
of their being allowed to fall into ruins, as the
heights around Balaklava often serve as a amide to
vessels which sail from Constantinople. Though
no commerce is carried on here, yet vessels are
now allowed to take refuge in the harbour, when
driven upon the shores by stress of weather.
Pallas has carefully indicated the different roads
across the mountains, and through the valleys, from
Balaklava to Foros, to Muchalatka, to Simaeus, to
Alyupka, to Gaspra, to Arnutka, and to Yalta, so
as to be useful to the stranger. We took our
course for Muchalatka, ascended through a plea¬
sant dell, and rode through woods. Oaks, ashes,
cherry-trees, mountain-ashes, and hazels, abounded
on the sides and summits of the rifted rocks. The
road was sometimes open, and sometimes led
through immense avenues, overshadowed by the
rich foliage of the trees, and every where so good
as to admit of galloping, Having gained the
highest hill in our way, the beautiful and smiling
valley of Varnutka presented itself and formed,
as it were, the commencement of the celebrated
valley of Baidar, from which it is separated by a
ridge of rocks.
The valley of Baidar has been described under
the titles of the Tauric Arcadia and the Crimean
x
o
SOS
THE VALLEY OF BAIDAR.
Tempe by Lady Craven and Mrs. Guthrie. Pallas,
however, thought it had been extravagantly praised
by all travellers ; and says, it excites much interest
in the individual who has not travelled in Siberia.
He also avows, that it had not produced the like
effect upon him, because he had already seen more
charming landscapes, and more imposing prospects.
He has likewise remarked, that the Caucasus
contains a thousand more picturesque and more
beautiful valleys. Dr. Clarke, who is anxious to
dispel “ the illusion ” of others, joins in the pro-
fessor’s opinion; and says, that the valley of
Baidar will not admit of a comparison with many of
the beautiful scenes in Switzerland, nor even with
those in Norway and Sweden. Castelnau, who
enters into a long disquisition as to the resem¬
blance and difference between this vale and the
valleys of Switzerland, concludes, that the former
“ still remains superior to all that can be said of
it.” For myself,, though I have visited the Cau¬
casus, and the fairy scenery of the well-known
Trosachs, in Scotland, I still regard the valley of
Baidar as uncommonly fine, * and worthy of most
of the eulogiums bestowed upon it.
This charming vale is about ten miles in length,
and varies from five to six in breadth ; and its di¬
rection is from south-east to north-east. It is
bounded, on the south, by the woody mountains
which run along the sea-shore; on the east, by the
rapid declivity of the Jala of Usundshi; on the
THE VILLAGE OF BAIDA R.
309
north, by a ridge of rocks, which separate it from
the valley in which the stream called Usenbash
takes its rise, and by the mountains of Kokulos
and of Ai-Thodor, covered with forests; and,
lastly, on the west, by the rocks of Varnutka.
Over this valley are scattered woods, groves, gar¬
dens, vineyards, cultivated fields, and pastures,
which are abundantly watered by numerous limpid
rivulets and streams. So rich is the foliage, that
ranges of the Tartars’ houses, along the sides of
the hills, and scattered throughout the plain, are
nearly concealed from the view, or only show their
rustic tops amidst masses of verdure. The fine
oaks and enormous walnut-trees are peculiarly
remarkable to the visitor, who, for the first time,
travels in this part of the peninsula. Pallas alludes
to a tree of the latter kind, which annually pro¬
duced from eighty to a hundred thousand nuts.
We passed the night of the 16th of May in the
village of Baidar, from which the vale received
its appellation, distant about five versts from the
sea-coast. Some of the houses are of two stories.
We lodged in the upper room of one of these,
which was surrounded by a wooden balcony, and,
for the first time, slept on the divans of the Tartar
peasants. Though the floor and the door, in a
great degree, acted as ventilators, yet it was un¬
comfortably warm in the night, huddled together,
as we were, on the floor; nearly in the man¬
ner I have elsewhere described the Russians to
x 3
310
THE TASS OF MEERDVEEN.
be, when a crowd are assembled at the fete of a
noble.*
Having drank some of the excellent milk of
Tartar cows fed in the luxuriant valley, and hav¬
ing breakfasted at an early hour, on the morning
of the 17th of May, we took our departure. We
enjoyed a charming ride, and arrived at the pass
of Meerdveen, on the brink of a precipice, which
we at first thought it impossible to descend ; and
indeed, at one period, agreeably to the report of
travellers, it was extremely difficult. Two high,
bold, craggy mountains form, as it were, the walls
of this alpine pass, with an immense detached
mass of rock lying between them, and overhang¬
ing the precipice below. On this rock we reposed
half an hour, enjoying one of the most impressive
scenes of nature, t
The word Meerdveen , in Tartar, signifies stair;
a term which was more applicable when it was
nearly all formed out of the solid rock, than at
present; for, though part of it still answers to this
description, yet other parts are covered with earth.
The whole was repaired in the year 1818, on ac¬
count of the Emperor Alexander’s visit. Notwith¬
standing that it seemed alarming at first, yet we de-
* Character of the Russians, p, Ivi.
f Among other plants on this mass of rock, I found Gera¬
nium lucidum, and Geranium robertianum ; and, in the neigh¬
bourhood, the beautiful Juniperus oxyphillos and the Juniperus
oxyccdrus first came under our view-
THE SOUTH COAST OF THE KRIMEA.
311
scended it with perfect ease on foot. Our horses
followed us, and though, during the numerous
windings from right to left, and vice versa , they
had great difficulty in preserving their equilibrium,
yet not one of them made a false step ; and their
cautious mode of proceeding was a great source of
amusement to us.
We had now got fairly upon the sea-coast,
which we meant to follow to Sudak ; and to avoid
repetition, I shall endeavour to give a general de¬
scription of it. From Balaklava, all along to Kaffa,
or Theodosia, the Tauridan mountains form, as
it were, an immense terrace, or line of bold and
lofty promontory, broken into mountains, some¬
times presenting their perpendicular or overhang¬
ing fronts, sometimes exhibiting their fantastic pro¬
files separated into cliffs and peaks, and sometimes
descending by gentle declivities to the valleys, or
stretching to numerous beautiful bays of the sea.
The distance between the mountains and the sea
may vary from two and three to six and eight
miles, and the intervening space is occupied by a
succession of fine valleys from Laspi to near Sudak.
The imposing boundary is here and there naked,
but is generally covered by woods, or scattered
trees; and many transparent streams issue from
between the rocks, which, at times, swell into cas¬
cades, and roll towards the ocean, watering the
low-lying lands in their progress.
The village of Muchalatka deserves no particu-
x f
312
KUTCHUK-KOI.-K1KENIS.
lar notice. From it, the road winds along the base
of the mountains, at a considerable distance from,
and height above, the level of the sea. We en¬
tered Kutchuk-Koi under the shade of walnut-trees
and fig-trees, and surrounded by pomegranates.
In the year 17S6 this village was destroyed by the
separation and fall of immense masses of the rock
above it, which is described at great length by
Pallas. A similar ride carried us to Kikenis about
mid-day, and here we determined to dine and
change horses. We were met by a patrol of three
of the Greek soldiers of Balaldava, who were sta¬
tioned at this village for a short time, and then
were to exchange with others. Kikenis is a village
of no great size, but pleasantly situated amid
walnut-trees, plum-trees, cherry-trees, and vines,
and commands an extensive view. At it passed
some amusing scenes. Sultan Katti-Gherri Krim-
Gherri harangued the Tartars and their Mohla
on the doctrines of Christianity; I announced the
celebration of what we called “ Olympic Games,”
and displayed the prizes, consisting of articles
which we had purchased at Sympheropole and
Baktchiserai; and one of the party, assisted by a
Greek soldier (I acting as Russian interpreter),
prepared the dinner, our cook not having arrived
with the luggage. Lamb, hens, eggs, and butter
were soon procured ; with which, and our own
bouillon, excellent soup, boiled and roasted meat,
and pancakes, were speedily prepared, to the no
KIKENIS. —-AMUSEMENTS.
313
small amusement of the Tartars. A low wooden
table was set out for dinner under a shade in the
open air, and we partook of our repast, surrounded
by a crowd of the natives, to whom the Sultan had
made a present of a New Testament, in their own
language. They seemed more interested in re¬
garding* us than the book; but those who were
curious turned over a leaf now and then, which ex¬
cited some conversation among the assembly. By
the time dinner was over the Starbst, or elder, had
assembled old and young men, boys, and even chil¬
dren, indeed all the male population of the village.
We instituted races of the boys, which were en¬
tered into with spirit. The wrestling of the Tar¬
tars was extremely amusing. In place of closing,
they calmly seize each other’s trowsers below
the hips, and then begin the struggle. They
overthrow their antagonists by sudden pulls from
side to side, and sometimes by lifting them off the
ground. They sang in accompaniment to the
sounds of a kind of guitar, but without much grace
or harmony ; and their dancing was more like jump¬
ing and hopping. This was a memorable day for
the natives, who were highly pleased with the
rewards. During the amusements, crowds of the
Tartar women, girls, and female children had col¬
lected on the flat roofs of their houses, to witness
the sport; and we purposely feigned to take no
notice of them, so as not to cause alarm, and thus
have an opportunity of examining them at leisure,
as a single marked look would have put them all to
314
AMUSEMENTS.—SIM/EUS.
flight. Our curiosity not being satisfied with this
distant view, we made signs to them to come and
contend for prizes also ; this they not only refused
to do, but began to run away. We unexpectedly
dashed among them, and a scene of great confusion
followed. They took to their heels, upset each
other, and screamed violently. Indeed they did
not think themselves secure till lodged within
their houses, on the declivity of the mountain, and
into which it would have been reckoned a violation
of decorum, and of right, to have followed them.
The Tartars, who, perhaps, did not much relish
this scene, pretended to be highly amused. There
was nothing inviting about the women in their
persons, their faces, or their mode of dress; but, on
the contrary, something very repulsive. We made
presents to all around us, and, bidding adieu to
our new acquaintances, who kindly invited us to
return, we left Kikenis.
By a winding road we arrived at Simaeus, about
six miles from Kikenis. Though the road had
been repaired in ISIS, and still was in good order,
yet we found it frequently interrupted by quantities
of schist us, which had tumbled down. The sure¬
footed Tartar horses conducted us safely by the
margins of precipices, and along the inclined base of
the mountains, upon a very narrow path. Between
Kikenis and Sinuous we remarked, what is not un¬
frequent on the south coast of the Krimea, im¬
mense masses of rock, somewhat in the form of a
ship, which, at some former period, had separated
SIAIyEUS.-ALYUPKA.
315
from the bold promontory above, and rolled into
the sea. Opposite them the naked, wild, and ma¬
jestic mountains seem to overhang, and threatening
to detach themselves, inspire the beholder with awe.
At Si uncus we were saluted by another guard of
the Arnaout Greeks, as we proceeded under the
sombre shade of olives, walnut-trees, and fig-trees,
intermixed with vines and pomegranates. The
formidable aspect of the craggy and peaked rocks
on the north, the unbounded tranquil “ dark blue
sea” on the south, with the smiling valley of
Simaeus between them, covered with very luxuriant
foliage, formed one of the most interesting scenes
which it is possible to conceive. Pallas has given
a view of this valley, which by no means does
it justice, and Castelnau exclaims, “ Suisse, si
fertile en charmans passages, on votes oublie, en
voyant le vallon de Semens !”
From Sinifeus to Alyupka the road continued
winding, as before, through the most charming
scenery,—through fairy-land, if such there be in
this world. Enjoying the rays of the setting sun,
which darted through a shady narrow alley of
walnut-trees, vines, and figs, we entered Alyupka,
one of the best and most delightful villages on the
whole south coast. Here the wild vine creeps, like
ivy, up the walls, and covers trees so entirely, as
to leave only a part of the stem or of a branch
uncovered, to proclaim the parasite.
Alyupka is not a large village. It contains but
thirty houses, as was shown by an inscription upon
316
TARTAR VILLAGES AND HOUSES.
a wooden post, as we entered it; the same custom
being adopted here as in Russia Proper, though
not so rigorously enforced, of making every hamlet
display its ensign, with the name of its proprietor,
(if it belong to an individual,) its own name, and
its population. A small wooden mosque, with its
low minaret, alone breaks the uniformity of the
structures of this village.
The Tartar villages upon the coast are generally
built on the declivity of the hills, and the houses
are arranged sometimes like terraces, rising one
above another, sometimes more like the steps of a
single stair, and sometimes irregularly scattered.
In some places they are almost entirely formed
by natural hollows in the rock, and in others by
making excavations; so that the natives have
little more to do than to add a front and a roof to
their huts. Few of them are of wood; they are
almost all constructed of stone and clay, in the
rudest manner; for architecture is little more
known among the Tartars of this part of the
Krimea, than among the most savage nations.
Their roofs, made of strong planks, and flat, like
a floor, are covered with argillaceous earth,
which hardens in the sun, and becomes impe¬
netrable to water. The natives walk, lounge,
form smoking parties, and sleep upon them, in
truly Oriental style; and it is not uncommon
to see cows, sheep, and goats reposing in the
same situation. The mountainous tribes of the
TARTAR VILLAGES AND HOUSES.
317
Caucasus, in many places, have similar struc¬
tures. The interior of the Tartar huts generally
assumes the square form, varying from eight to
twelve or fifteen feet in length and breadth. They
are lighted by one or two small windows, without
glass or shutters. In winter, or during bad weather,
boards, or lattices, fill up the openings, and few of
the natives are at the pains to employ even oiled
paper in place of glass. On one side of the apart¬
ment is a large fire-place, and the other is a kind of
recess, or a platform, on which are piled up abund¬
ance of gaudy-coloured cushions, which serve for
show, or for seats by day and beds by night. Most
of the Tartars also cover the floor with a kind
of coarse carpet. Many of their buildings have
more than a single apartment. Where there are
two rooms, one of them is occupied by the fe¬
males; but when a Tartar has two wives, each
of them has her separate chamber. As the women
always withdraw on seeing strangers, should there
be but a single room in the hut, they retreat to
the house of a neighbour. The Tartar women,
however, are not unwilling to receive females of
other nations, as we learn from Mrs. Holdcrness,
who made them many visits, and who has recorded
the results of her observations during a residence in
the Krimea, in an interesting little volume. # Many
* Notes relating to the Customs and Manners of the Krim
Tartars. By Mary Holderness, 1821.
SIS
TARTAR VILLAGES AND HOUSES.
of the Tartar villages are quite buried in groves, and
concealed by the luxuriant foliage of the climate,
till one is close upon them. In the flat parts of the
Krimea, as we shall see by and by, the houses are
small, some entirely above the ground, others partly
subterranean.
We passed the night at Alyupka, by many es¬
teemed the first among all the charming sites of
the Krimea; and, assuredly no pen can describe
its beauty, or the grandeur of the surrounding
scenery. It is conjectured, that at some former,
and, probably, remote period, the brow of the
mountain had detached itself, and, in its fall, was
crashed into a thousand forms ; and that upon
the debris, Alyupka, with all its houses, gardens,
and arable land, is situated. The morning after our
arrival, we went to see the gardens, and were not
disappointed by the flowery descriptions of travel¬
lers. Laurels, figs, date-plums (.Diospyros lotos'),
mulberries, vines, cultivated and wild, &c. were
seen on every side, as we wandered amid innu¬
merable masses of detached rock, between which
flowed a profusion of crystal rivulets.
Notwithstanding the rare beauty and magnifi¬
cence of innumerable situations on the south coast
of the Krimea, the inducements of a delightful
climate during the greatest part of the year, and
an abundance of fine fruits almost spontaneously
produced — although the peninsula has been in
the possession of the Russians above forty years —
SUBJECTION OF THE TARTARS.
319
not a noble has taken up his permanent residence,
and scarcely any for the summer months, from Se¬
vastopol to Alyupka, and, indeed, even to Nikita.
What want of taste for fine scenery !
On the morning of the 18th, one of the Greek
soldiers acted as our conductor while perambulat¬
ing the vicinity of Alyupka, and a number of the
natives watched our motions with the penetrat¬
ing eye of curiosity; but, as usual, they were exces¬
sively obliging and communicative, and seemed
to have a high degree of suavity and inoffen-
siveness in their nature, which did not altogether
accord with the ideas we had formed of the proud,
haughty, ferocious Tartars of the Krimea, who
were once so potent, and so dreaded by their
neighbours, and who made irruptions into Poland
and Russia with fire and sword, and left ruin and
desolation in their track. But the days of the
Golden Horde are passed away, and the masters
are now become the subjects of a power which
they once despised. Probably, they would attempt
again to become the masters, were there but the
hope of success of their being able to shake off
their dependence. The vigilant policy of Russia,
the embarrassed state of the Porte, and the
progress of the affairs of Europe, leave little room
for their present consolation. But it may be
hoped that, before a great many years revolve,
the changes which the Greeks may operate in
the East, or the revolutions which may be ex-
S‘iO SUBJECTION OF THE TARTARS.-YALTA.
pected to happen in Russia, will ultimately lead to
some important steps in favour of the natives of
this charming, but oppressed peninsula. I do not
mean, however, to assert, that the present govern¬
ment is oppressive by its nkdzes, or by the kind of
administration which it has destined for the regu¬
lation of the Tartars. On the contrary, mildness
and forbearance are rather its characteristics ; and
it permits the natives to enjoy various immunities
and privileges which are denied to the Russians.
But the mischief is, that, whatever may be the in¬
tentions of the sovereign, the same system of
bribery and corruption which characterises the
civil administration in Russia Proper, likewise pre¬
vails in as great, or even a greater degree, in the
foreign provinces of this empire ; in all of which,
a part, or the whole, of the judges and persons in
power are real Russians, as in the Krimea and in
Georgia. In consequence of the universal perver¬
sion of justice, the monarchs of Russia, however
benevolent and sincere in their designs, are com¬
pletely deceived as to their execution.
The route, villages, rivulets, mountains, plants,
and minerals found between Alyupka and Nikita,
are so minutely described by Pallas, that it
would be superfluous to say a word of them here.
Before reaching Yalta, a beautiful bay, with a
smooth, sandy shore, invited us to bathe in the
Black Sea, whose waters, even here, are but slightly
brackish to the taste. As we were crossing the
YALTA.-GREEK MONASTERY. -321
rivulet Yalta, we were surprised by the approach
of a Kozak on horseback, who demanded our
names. He, and a few of his comrades, dwell in
a small white house by the side of the bay of
Yalta, to protect the commerce of this place; a
commerce so trifling, that, perhaps, the expenses
exceed the .profits. We passed Derekoi, and, at
a short distance from Nikita, we made a pause at
the ruins of a small Greek monastery, which is de¬
scribed by Clarke, and was judged w r orthy of an
engraving in his travels, executed from a drawing
of Mr. Heber, on account of “ the grandeur of
the situation but it did not strike us in the same
manner, amid so many more beautiful spots in its
neighbourhood. Its broken-down and half-unroofed
walls had a venerable aspect, and were overhung
by Traveller’s Joy (Clematis Vitalba'). “ The tribu¬
tary offering to the genius of the place, in some
verses written with a pencil,” by Mr. Tweddell, the
friend of Clarke, is now no longer visible. Indeed,
the only remaining morsels of plaster are covered
by the unprofaned images of some saints, and by
the names of late visitors, who, I suppose, were
obliged to erase the more classic names of Twed¬
dell, and Clarke, and Pallas, to make room for
their own.
Soon after leaving these ruins, the regularity of
the gardens, with a small temple, besides a number
of adjoining houses, indicated the situation of
Nikita, on the sea-coast. The descent to it is
VOL. I. Y
Q0O
NIKITA.
very rapid. The weather was warm; and we
disturbed two very large adders basking in the sun,
in the middle of a narrow path. We had des¬
patched a letter, with which Mr. Steven had
furnished us at Sympheropole, for the gardener
at Nikita, the preceding evening; but the lazy
Tartar messenger had only arrived at his destin¬
ation an hour before us. He was flogged, as he
deserved, for his negligence. During his punish¬
ment he remained immovable as a statue, and in
his countenance was expressed the greatest sang
frokl: scarcely were his features deranged, and
he repeatedly said his back was accustomed to
such strokes. Nothing can be a surer indica¬
tion of the loss of spirit and the subjection of the
Tartars, than the tameness with which they submit
to this and similar chastisements.
At Nikita we found neither men nor horses, and,
therefore, we retained those we had, after arrang¬
ing with their conductors. All the males of this
village had been ordered to Sympheropole, to as¬
sist in killing the locusts.
We took possession of Mr. Steven’s snug and
pleasant house ; and, having enlisted some soldiers
in our service, we had a dinner cooked in the
kitchen, of which we partook under the shade of a
mountain-ash (Sorbus domestic a ) of enormous size.
We were furnished with red and white Krimean
wine, some years old, from the cellar.which belongs
to the crown, and is given gratis to all travellers.
NIKITA.-BOTANIC GARDEN.
323
We found it delicious, and very different in quality
from what we had partaken of in the course of our
journey, especially at Sympheropole. There it is
generally sold when quite new and unfit for use.
The Imperial Gardens of Nikita were instituted
by the crown, in the year 1811. Their object is
twofold: 1st to serve as a nursery, and, 2d, as a
botanic garden for rare plants. Though they are
laid out with some taste, and though their objects
are in some degree answered, yet we felt con¬
siderable disappointment in viewing this establish¬
ment, after having heard so many pompous en¬
comiums bestowed upon it. At the period of our
visit the gardens contained about a thousand spe¬
cies of fruit-trees, i. e. of different kinds, with
their varieties, and above 3,000 plants. The soil
is not the best; and, although water is abundant
for nine months of the year, yet, during June,
July, and August, there is a great scarcity of it.
It is then necessary to fetch it from the distance of
two versts, from the rivulet near the Greek monas¬
tery, already noticed ; no easy task, when we con¬
sider the long and rapid ascent and descent to be
traversed, and the quantity of water required daily
for the gardens.
Nikita lies open to the sea, and, at times, as the
gardener informed us, is exposed to terrible winds
from the south, but still more from the south-east
and south-west; a statement which militates much
against Clarke’s flowery and elegant description
y 2
324 NIKITA.—BOTANIC GARDEN.
of the south coast of the Krimea, the “ terrestrial
paradise.”* It is true, indeed, that during the
fine season any individual is apt to be carried away
by the seducing beauties of the coast, and to for¬
get that there is a short, and sometimes a very
severe, winter. Indeed, the winter after our jour¬
ney proved very hard. The thermometer sunk
to zero of Fahrenheit, and snow, to the depth of
above two feet, covered the Krimea. The torrents
which flow from the mountains, and which are sel¬
dom frozen, were converted into ice; and the ice
on the Cimmerian Bosphorus, became so strong
that people crossed on foot from Ivertch to Taman
without any danger ; a rare occurrence. In the
level part of the country, innumerable horned cat¬
tle, sheep, and horses died for want of shelter and
food. Indeed, Mrs. Holderness, who, it must not
be forgotten, resided at Karagoss, in a northern
exposure, describes the winter as generally more
severe, though shorter, than that of England.
In a small temple, charmingly situated, and
commanding a fine view of the sea, stands upon a
pedestal a bronze statue of Linnaeus, which was
presented to Nikita by one of the most liberal
patrons of arts, sciences, and literature in the Rus¬
sian empire, Count Rumantsof. This gentleman is
better known to the world for having fitted out the
llurik at his own expense, which circumnavigated
* Clarke’s Travels, p. 530.
NIKITA.
BOTANIC GARDEN.
32.5
the globe, under the command of Kotzebue. Such
men do honour to the country which gave them
birth, and to human nature.
Pallas, in commemoration of his travels and
discoveries in the Krimea, as well as of his ta¬
lents, also deserves a monument in this temple;
till the erection of which, Pallasium Pterococcos,
which is here found in great abundance, serves its
place.
We were informed that there are only twelve
men employed in the gardens of Nikita during
summer, but that more are attached to them in
winter, when less wanted. This confirms the
doctrine of the gentleman at Sevastopol, that the
Russians do nothing right. We found the gardener
an intelligent man. He carried us to his house,
and showed us his collection of silkworms, which
succeeded here very well.
The village of Nikita contains twenty-five houses,
and is, in every respect, like most of the other Tar¬
tar villages we passed upon the level parts of the
valleys. Its situation, to the east of the gardens,
amidst numerous large trees, would be a delightful
place for an English villa.
We again resumed our route; and, soon after
leaving Nikita, we enjoyed a superb view. The no¬
ble bay, bounded by the promontory Nikita Burun
on one side, and by the mountain Ayu-Dagh on the
other; two insulated abrupt rocks rising out of .the
sea like the ruins of castles ; the romantic village.
S2G
YURSUF.—AYU-DAGH.
Yursuf; the exquisitely beautiful rural scenery,
including the summer-house of the late Due de
Richelieu; and “ the dark blue” Euxine, which
waters the foot of the mountains,—all conjoin to
form a fine panorama. Pallas has given a vig¬
nette of the bold rock and iortress of Yursuf, with
a long description of it; Castelnau’s work con¬
tains a representation of the same, including the
house of the Due de Richelieu; and the vignette
to this chapter gives a just idea of the promontory
of Ayu-Dagh, and the objects in its vicinity. We
ascended the hill, and passed through the village of
Yursuf, which affords an excellent specimen of the
manner of building employed by the Tartars. It is
less surrounded by trees, and is therefore more dis¬
tinctly seen than many others.
We passed Ayu-Dagh on the right, which lay
between us and the sea. The name of this moun¬
tain is never written as Clarke writes it; nor has it
any reference to Holy Mountain, as some have
supposed. Ayu-Dagh is a compound Tartar word,
and literally means Bear-Mountain, as Pallas had
previously informed us, and as was confirmed
by Sultan Katti-Gherri Krim-Gherri. An idea of
the figure of this hill may be better obtained from
the vignette than from any description. Its mi¬
neralogy is alluded to by Pallas ; and both he and
Clarke speak of the ruins of a Greek monastery
upon its summit. Our road sometimes lay along
the declivity of the hills, and sometimes by the
KUTCHUK-LAMPAT.-SCHISTUS.
327
fine bay of' the sea. Before we passed Parthenite
night had overtaken us, but we were lighted on
our way by a beautiful clear moon to Kutchuk-
Lampat, the estate of Senator Borozdin, whose
letter procured us a lodging for the night.
The village of Kutchuk-Lampat is unworthy of
notice, but the house of the Senator is agreeably
placed in a beautiful and tranquil spot. It is a plain
edifice of two stories in height, with a semi-circular
balcony fronting to the sea. Its site is near the
middle of a semi-oval bay, with Parthenite and the
Ayu-Dagh on the west, and another bold promon¬
tory on the east, and craggy mountain scenery,
and lovely groves of fruit-trees on the north. It
is, truly, one of nature’s choicest spots.
On leaving our lodging, on the 19th of May, we
received a few bottles of Krimean wine, which we
found of good quality. After ascending a hill,
and gaining the sea-shore on the opposite side, two
nearly pyramidal rocks, of no great size, and not
far distant from the land, which were quite white,
as if covered with snow, and another flat rock, little
above the level of the sea, exhibiting the same ap¬
pearance, roused our curiosity. We soon reached
the rivulet Lambat, or Bijuk-Lambat, where we
found a few houses, and a small Tartar corn-mill.
Traversing the sea-shore, the strata of schistus
now deeply excites the attention of the geologist.
They are horizontal, undulating, serpentine, and
even intersect each other; they dip from east to
y 4
SCH1STUS.-ALUSHTA.
828
west at an immense angle, and, indeed, in some
places, are almost perpendicular. They also form
all kinds of semi-circles, semi-ovals, and zig-zags.
Allowing that these strata had been detached at
some former period from a high hill on the north,
it is difficult to conceive how they assumed their
present appearance. For, had it happened by any
sudden and dreadful convulsion of the earth, we
might have expected the whole of their soft mate¬
rials to have been mingled in confusion: or, at
least, not to have exhibited the regularity which
they have really preserved.
About four.versts from Alushta, we had a beau¬
tiful view of the alpine scenery of the Taurida.
Our road, which now for the most part lay near the
sea-shore became much worse, because it was often
interrupted by banks of fallen schistus.
Alushta is situated upon an insulated hill between
the rivulets Temerdshi and Meserlik. The remains
of three towers, and a high wall, are accurately de¬
scribed by Pallas, who calls it a Greek citadel $
and Clarke, on the authority of Procopius, says it
was erected in the time of Justinian. The vil¬
lage is of considerable size, and is partly built
within the walls of the fortress. From the almost
total want of trees Alushta is completely exposed,
and it gives a correct, but mean, character of
a Tartar village, unadorned by natural scenery.
The houses rise in the same terrace-like manner as
already described, and are partly formed on the
ALUSHTA.— KURU-UZEN. 329
sides of the hill, and partly built of rude stones.
It may be said that the Tartars, all along the coast
of the Krimea, are seldom upon a level surface,
except when on the tops of their houses.
We had here a view of the vale of Alushta,
through which a road conducts to Svmpheropole,
the only mountain-pass, easily practicable, we had
yet reached since we left BaJaklava. When we
set out from Kutchuk-Lambat, we had made our
dispositions to ascend the Tchadir-Dagh, as already
said, the highest mountain in the Krimea, which
rises about 1200 or 1300 feet above the level of the
sea, and, owing to its form, is called Mons Tra-
pesus. Representations of it are given both by
Pallas and Clarke. It deserves a visit on account
of its botanical productions, and of the remarkable
view of the whole Krimea, from its summit. When
we reached Alushta, it was enveloped in clouds,
and it now rained, so that our plan was destroyed
for the present. We therefore determined to con¬
tinue our route by the coast. Between Alushta
and Kuru-Uzen, we remarked the same kind of
broken and irregular schistous strata, which have
been already noticed ; and at the place where a
land-slip of the earth had taken place, as mentioned
by Pallas, numerous rents and caverns are still
visible, but they are not so remarkable as formerly.
Kuru-Uzen is a trifling Tartar village, on a gentle
and projecting hill on the sea-side, much enlivened
by the small white-washed summer-house of Dr.
330
KIJTCHUK-UZEN.
Lange, of Sympheropole, at which we were re¬
ceived. While a heavy shower fell, we galloped
to Kutchuk-Uzen, and soon arrived at the house of
Colonel Steege, who was acquainted with the Sul¬
tan. This gentleman, a German by birth, after
having been in the Russian service thirty-five years,
has retired to this place to end his days in tranquil¬
lity. Here we met with a welcome reception, dined
well, quaffed a number of bottles of excellent Kri-
mean wine, drank coffee, and passed some hours in
conversation, and in obtaining information. Kut¬
chuk-Uzen, with the Colonel’s house in front, is
situated in a valley, and contains thirty houses.
The land belongs to the Colonel ; and the Tartars,
for eight days’ work in the year, receive a suffi¬
ciency of pasture for feeding their cattle. Of all
the produce of the land, which they cultivate, he
receives the tenth part, and the hundredth part of
their sheep and goats. These, we were informed,
are the conditions allowed the Tartars, as fixed by
a commission at Sympheropole, throughout the
peninsula. In a mild climate, where the soil is
good, they are such as enable the natives to live
at their ease, and indulge in their habitual indo¬
lence.
The road from Kutchuk-Uzen to Uskut soon
leaves the sea-shore, and conducts to the mountains.
Busily occupied in botanising, I lost the party, and
got completely bewildered amid the hills. Even¬
ing approached, and I knew not which way to turn.
ARRIVAL AT USKUT.
33 1
1 left my horse to his own will, when falling in
with a narrow path, I determined to pursue it
till I came to some village. I proceeded at
full gallop, under heavy rain, soon entered a vil¬
lage, and stopped before one of the peasants’
houses. The females who were in the yard, being
seriously alarmed, fled into the house. I alighted,
and took shelter under the lintel of the door, but
I was entreated by cries and tears to depart. A
Tartar mohla, who was near, immediately came
up to me, and as I had determined to pass the
niffht here, I endeavoured to make friends with
him, and with a number of his countrymen, who
had assembled.- I distributed a few leathern bags
among them, made signs of my wish to be on
good terms, showed my purse, talked Iiuss, and
found they all comprehended the words dengi
and nu vodtkii (money and drink-money). The
women became tranquil; the Tartars were rea¬
dy to serve me and to give me a lodging; and
we managed to carry on a conversation by pan¬
tomime. After a little time, a Tartar came to
me, took my horse, and made signs to me to go
with him, repeating the word “ general.” I sup¬
posed some Russian general had also arrived in this
village, and had sent for me, and was not a little
surprised when the guide conducted me to a house,
where all our party were assembled, and anxious
about me. I now found that I was in Uskut.
We had warm milk and tea here, and the whole
USKUT. —TARTAR WORSHIP.
232
village seemed to assemble about our lodging.
We made a musical and dancing party of as
many Tartars as the apartment would admit.
The instrument used, in shape, resembled a gui¬
tar, and had five metal cords, which were played
upon by means of a piece of polished cherry-tree
bark, of the form of a finger-nail, which was held
between the thumb and finger. The natives
called it a zas, and said it was brought from
Constantinople. The instrumental music possessed
neither regularity nor harmony; the vocal music
seemed, as far as we coidd judge, to consist
in strong nasal sounds, which were most distress¬
ing to our ears; and the dancing was similar to
what we have already noticed at Kikenis. Having
rewarded our merry entertainers, and announced
“ Olympic Games” for the following morning,
w r e displayed the prizes, and bade them good
night. In the evening, after our fellow-travellers
were gone to bed, one of the party and I sallied
forth to the Tartar mosque, in which we had re¬
marked numerous lights. This edifice is of a
square form, and a few feet from the door, a rail¬
way runs across it. The railed-off space serves as
a porch, in which the worshippers leave their
clogs or their slippers. I took off’ my boots and
walked round the mosque, to examine particularly
some Mahomedan paintings and inscriptions upon
the walls. The women have a gallery separated
by lattice-work. It was impossible not to observe
USKUT.-TARTAR WORSHIP.
333
the similarity of this mosque to the Jewish syna¬
gogues at Tchufut-Kale. The silence, the rivetted
attention, the bendings—at times even till the head
touched the floor, the down-sittings and the up¬
risings of the Tartars, all surprised us. One of
their motions was peculiarly striking; while rest¬
ing upon their feet— not upon their knees— their
heads touched, or nearly touched, the floor, and
the effect was to throw their bodies into the most lu¬
dicrous position. The rapidity and precision of the
Tartars’ motions, and their constant action in con¬
cert, reminded us of the manoeuvres of a company
of infantry. The readings and pauses of the moJ/la,
while complete stillness reigned, had a very solemn
effect, and excited our admiration.
On the following morning, at an early hour,
for want of a drum, a boy beat the tocsin upon
an immense brass pan, and we were speedily
surrounded by the villagers, when we repeated the
amusements already spoken of at Kikenis. The
Tartars were highly pleased with the rewards, and
in token of their good will, they presented us with
plates full of cherries.
Uskut is, comparatively speaking, a large village,
for it contains seventy houses, and many of them
are much larger than the “ rabbit warrens,” we
had hitherto seen ; indeed, here we had to ascend
to our apartments by a stair, as there was a kind of
basement story below. The village is situated in
334
TCHUBAN-KALE.-KAPSOCHOU.
a dell, through which the rivulet Uskut runs, en¬
closed on all sides by lofty mountains.
After ascending from Uskut we were encircled
with alpine and rock scenery, and with numerous
peaks, of that kind which is said to be peculiar to
the Krimea, and of which the vignette to the next
chapter gives an excellent idea. Having descended
into a valley, we approached the castle or tower of
Tchuban-Kale, which is very commanding, from
the half-insulated rock on which it stands upon the
coast. The view is bounded by the Ayu-Dagh,
and by another promontory beyond Sudak. The
tower is of a round form, and of considerable height.
Its walls are thick, and its roof is arched somewhat
in the form of a cupola. Pallas states all its mea¬
surements.
The barren hill, and the naked vicinity of
Tchuban-Kale, form a strong contrast to the de¬
licious scenery we had, for some days, been accus¬
tomed to behold. Like the plains of the peninsula,
the hill itself was covered with Peg (mum Harmala.
A couple of species of Artemisia and the common
Juniper, were its other chief vegetable productions;
but the Sumach (Rhus coriaria) grows below in
abundance.
On passing Tchuban-Kale toward Kapsochor,
it seemed as if we had got into another country.
Pile soil is sterile ; and roots of stunted junipers,
oaks, horn-beams, &c. spread every where, in the
most fantastic forms, from elevations, across the
KAPSOCHOR.-KUTLAK.
335
road and toward the earth, in quest of water and
food. The large rotten stems and branches of nu-
merous trees, as also of junipers, attest that here
was formerly abundant vegetation. Most proba¬
bly some violent agitation of the earth has led to
the present desolation. The irregular schistous
strata, of various appearance, will not fail to excite
notice. The first few versts from Tchuban-Kale
exhibits nature under some of her less inviting,
but not less impressive forms,—bare, wild, majes¬
tic, and sublime. Soon after, turning from the sea¬
shore, we entered the village of Kapsochor, in the
vale of the same name, which is covered with gar¬
dens and vineyards, and is surrounded by gently
acclivitous mountains. We proceeded to Kutlak,
a small village, in which is a diminutive mosque,
destitute of a minaret. Here the Tartars good-
naturedly erected a shade over us, while we partook
of a refreshment, and had our horses changed.
CHAP. VIII.
THE VALE OF SUDAK.-THE IMPERIAL VINEYARDS. — TIIE
CASTLE-DEPOPULATION OF THE KRIMEA.—INSECURITV
OF PROPERTY.— CORRUPT CIVIL ADMINISTRATION.—CREED
IN RUSSIAN LEGISLATION-ALEXANDER. - POPULATION OF
TIIE KRIMEA. —ITS CLASSES. COLONIES. — CHARACTER OF
THE TARTARS-THEIR LITERATURE.— POETRY.— GEOGRA¬
PHY. -MEDICINE.— PUBLIC SCHOOLS.-TARAKTASII.-SUUK-
SU.—ELBUZLI.—TILLING.—KARASSUBAZAR.—ITS COMMERCE.
- ITS FORTRESS-LIKE KHAN.- ITS MANUFACTURES.— ITS
POPULATION.— TRINITY SUNDAY.— DEPOT OF MEDICINES.-
EXTRAORDINARY ANECDOTE.-CIVIL MEDICAL STAFF IN
RUSSIA.— CEMETERIES OF THE TARTARS.—DESOLATION OF
THE KRIMEA. ANECDOTE.— DRIVE IN TELEGAS. THUN¬
DER-STORM AT SYMPHEROPOLE. — ARRIVAL AT KAFFA.—
ANECDOTE.-ANCIENT MOSQUE. — APPEARANCE OF KAFFA.-
ITS BAY-ITS DESCRIPTION. — POPULATION. - QUARAN¬
TINE. — COMMERCE.-MUSEUM.-COINS.
I 1 uom the village of Kutlak, we took Pallas for
our guide, and soon came into the celebrated Vale
VALE OF SUDAK.— THE IMPERIAL VINEYARDS. 337
of Sudak. While traversing it, we were highly-
pleased with many charming views, of the same
nature as that represented in the vignette, in the
preceding page. Here the soil is whitish and clayey.
Vineyards and groves of trees, intermixed with fine
poplars, abound on all sides. The cottages of the
proprietors, one or two stories in height, white¬
washed and tiled, and in European taste, greatly en¬
liven this delightful valley, which is described by
Pallas with much minuteness. We rode directly to
the imperial vineyards, and were kindly received
by their director, Mr. [Esell, a German, who has
the rank of a lieutenant-colonel. We dined in his
house, and were supplied with abundance of the
Krimean wines, some of which were of superior
quality. They belong to the crown, and, as at
Nikita, strangers are supplied with them, at least in
moderation, without payment. Of course we made
the Colonel a present.
The Imperial Vineyards are of considerable ex¬
tent, and, besides the native vines of the climate,
they contain many species which have been intro¬
duced at different times. The kinds of wine now
made here, chiefly from foreign vines, are (as
literally translated) red and white wine of Zante,
— red and white wine of Korfu, — red French
wine,— white Hungarian wine, — and red claret;
besides different kinds of red and white Kri¬
mean wine. The whole quantity of wine pro¬
duced by these vineyards in 1821, amounted to
vol. r. z
338
THE CASTLE OF SUDAK.
60,000 vedros (each of fifteen small-sized bottles).
According to their quality they were sold at from
two and a half to four roubles per vedro; so that
the whole revenue, perhaps, amounted to above
200,000 roubles.
The vineyards are four versts distant from the
castle of Sudak, which, it is supposed, was built by
the Genoese, about the middle of the fourteenth
century. The ingenious author, Oderico, has be¬
stowed a large portion of his work upon the history
of Sudak and its antiquities *; and Pallas has given
a minute description, as well as a view, of its for¬
tress, in his travels. This author relates that at
the epoch of his first visit to the castle, a num¬
ber of edifices, of elegant architecture, in the
Gothic style, remained, but that they had been
destroyed in order to raise barracks within its
walls;—thus giving another proof of the system of
destruction which seems to have reigned through¬
out the Krimea, except at Baktchiserai, ever since
the Russians possessed it, till the visit of Alexander
in 1818. The barracks are allowed to go to ruin,
being no longer of any use. At one time a regi¬
ment, or a battalion, was stationed here. But now
thirteen of the Arnaout Greeks, with an officer,
form the only guardians of the place ; and they ex¬
change duty every month with an equal number
* Lettere Ligustiche dell’ Abbate Gasparo Luigi Oderico.
8vo. Bassano, 1792.
THE CASTLE OF SUDAK. 839
from Balaklava. With an under-officer as guide
we ascended the highest peak of the castle, but
with considerable difficulty. The chief tower is
of a square form; its walls are very thick and
composed entirely of stone, and its roof is vaulted
in the Gothic style. From hence the view is re-
markablv fine. On our return we saw some foun-
*/
tains, over one of which is a curious figure of a
tutelary deity, somewhat like an expanded bat
and a serpent conjoined. There is a Sclavonic
inscription on the stone below it, but it is near¬
ly effaced. The Greek chapel, of which Pallas
speaks, still remains, and in it service is daily per¬
formed.
In ancient times, the castle of Sudak must have
been a place of great strength; and the con¬
struction of its walls and towers was, no doubt,
reckoned an immense undertaking.
A tew Tartar houses near the castle, with a few
others scattered over the adjacent plain, form the
present town, or rather village, of Sudak. Most
of the former have a very miserable appearance,
and the latter are but paltry. A number of them
have not flat roofs.
The Tartars pretend that since the occupation
of the Krimea by the Russians, their winters have
been longer and more severe than formerly * ; and
* Pallas’s Second Journey, vol. iv. p. 114'-
Z 2
340
DEPOPULATION OF THE KRIMEA.
no doubt they have felt them so, owing to the
change in their political state. Well, indeed,
might it be said, that the Krimea is now a “ de¬
vastated pays and the truth of the remark was
proved by the ruins which we every where beheld,
and the almost universal diminution of the popu¬
lation. Russia (or rather her agents) first inflicts
the mortal wounds in oppressing the people, and
thereby causing them to emigrate; and in anni¬
hilating ancient towns and venerable ruins, and
thereby making those who remain discontented:
and 'then, issuing some new ukazes, she en¬
deavours to re-establish the prosperity of the
Krimea, by instituting foreign as well as Russian
colonies ; by building barracks and other crown
edifices; by organising tribunals and a central seat
of justice ; by restoring ancient names; by forming
a fleet; and by building and renovating towns, as
Sevastopole, Sympheropole, Kafta, and Kertch.
But the population is gone, and the most useful
and industrious people, the Greeks and the Ar¬
menians, have nearly all left the peninsula. In¬
dustry and commerce are no more, though the
Krimea is now surrounded by ports on the Black
Sea, and on the Sea of Azoph. Sevastopole may
continue the great naval station of the south of
Russia; Kaffa and Kertch may become fine small
towns of crown edifices; and Sympheropole may
boast of its tribunals, and its being the seat of a
DEPOPULATION OF THE KRIMEA.
341
government administration; but the prospect of
the Krimea ever regaining its importance, under
the Russians, seems very small.
The insecurity of property has also contributed
to the decline and fall of the Krimea. After its
conquest, the estates of the Tartars, given away
both to Russians and to natives, were afterwards
reclaimed by their original proprietors, and many
long protracted law-processes have been among
the consequences.
In proof of my own observations, made long
before I saw Mrs. Holderness’s works, I shall
not hesitate to make a few quotations as they
are extremely interesting, and, I am sorry to add,
they are but too correct for the poor Tartars.
“ The commission for examining the titles of
disputed lands, called in Russ, * spornaya kom-
missia ,’ seems to have been very unsuccessful in
its labours; the boundaries of estates in the Cri¬
mea are still very indistinctly known, and many,
if not most of them, are involved in a perplexity,
which appears to be hopeless, from its long con¬
tinuance.” #
Tribunals are established in the Krimea of the
same nature as those in the other parts of the
Russian dominions, and which I have explained
in my quarto volume, t Mrs. Holderness has al-
* New Russia, p. 180.
t Character of the Russians, &c. p. 267*
z 3
342 CORRUPT CIVIL ADMINISTRATION.
luded to some of these tribunals very particularly,
and from her testimony may be derived another
powerful confirmation of the horrible and univer¬
sal corruption of civil administration in the domi¬
nions of Russia. # This lady, after quoting the
Russian proverb, “ Soocl lyubit zoloto i Slraptchei
serebro” (the court loves gold and the notary silver,)
remarks that the Krimea “ is somewhat famous for
verifying it.” To the enquiry made by a gentle¬
man of a kind of under-agent in one of the tribu¬
nals, as to his opinion respecting who should gain
a law process, he replied, “ How niuch money will
your friend give to have it settled?” To use a
common phrase, the pocket is sounded for the same
reason that a physician feels his patient’s pulse, and
on its fulness or emptiness generally depends the
issue of the cause.
“ Whatever strictness or conscientious dealing,”
says Mrs. Holderness, “ marks the heads of go¬
vernment in the Crimea, the underlings, who live
upon such small salaries, take a watchful advantage
of every opportunity for increasing them, which
their almost unlimited authority so frequently
presents them with, t
“ The salary affixed to the office of ispravnik is
250 roubles per annum, which, it has been confi¬
dently said, that he is able to stretch to 10,000.”
Mrs. Holderness does not vouch for the truth of this
* New Russia, p. 118.
f Ibid. p. 119.
CREED OR RUSSIAN LEGISLATURE.
343
statement, and I am persuaded that it is extrava¬
gant. But she is correct in asserting, “ that it is an
undoubted fact, that his (the isprdvmb? s) nominal
income is very much below what he really receives;
and that all above the sum allowed by government
is extorted from the Tatars, or received by way of
present, which the donors, in most cases, are com¬
pelled to make, to avoid worse consequences !” *
She also relates an anecdote quite in point. The
late Mr. Engel], —who had held the office of chief
at Kaffa, and was highly calculated for this appoint¬
ment,—reformed many abuses which had crept into
the quarantine and customs, and exercised a watch¬
ful care in behalf of the government, “ which was
felt by many who had before acknowledged, in the
words of an officer, the Director-general of the
quarantine, * It faut voler, Monsieur /’ ” f This
is excellent; but I would propose the following
amendment, which may be considered as the creed
of all the agents of the tribunals, high and low, with
a very few exceptions; and which every court in the
empire ought to have placed by the side of his Im¬
perial Majesty’s portrait t — alas! his dumb repre¬
sentative, — II faut vivre ; et en Russie, pour vivre
il faut voter. For the benefit of the Russians, I
shall give it them in their own tongue : Nddobno
* New Russia, p. 120. f Ibid. p. 133.
% In every court is placed the portrait, or painting, of
Alexander, to remind those who enter it, that the place is
public, imperial, and sacred.
Z 4
344> THE EMPEROR ALEXANDER.
jit, i iv Rossii, ndclobno ulcrast. Oh that the
Emperor’s portrait could start into life, or could
bear witness to the wicked transactions of the
Russian courts! His Majesty’s love of justice
would then lead to many signal changes. *
“ In an empire so extensive as that of Russia,
whatever be the efforts, whatever the wishes of him
who governs, it is scarcely to be expected their
influence, so powerfully felt at the centre, can extend
with equal force to those distant provinces which his
smile seldom visits, his presence rarely cheers. Yet
here, though depravity marks so many individuals,
and they mar the endeavours which the Emperor
is continually making for the universal benefit of
his subjects, even here, he is beloved and respected,
reverenced and obeyed.
“ His visit to the Krimea was a subject of joyful
expectation before it took place; and the mild and
conciliating manners of this most powerful mo¬
narch won the hearts of the humblest of his sub¬
jects : few there are who do not boast of having
seen the Emperor, and not a few who had the
honour to converse with him. Divested of the
parade of state, he travelled without any military
escort, and won, or secured the confidence of his
people, by that he evinced in them.” t
* I am glad to remark, by a letter dated St. Petersburgh,
May 21st, 1824, that “ great changes are spoken of in the or¬
ganisation of the senate and of the council of the empire.”
t New Russia, p.121.
POPULATION OF THE KRIMEA.
345
About half a century ago, the Krimea could boast
of a population of half a million of souls, and could
bring an armyof40,000or50,000men into the field.
It was then of no small importance, particularly
on account of its peninsular and frontier situation
between Russia and Turkey; an importance which
it may again acquire in the event of war. In the
year 1778, after the treaty of peace was concluded
between the Turks and the Russians, more than
3000 Christians, Greeks, and Armenians, who had
been naturalised in the Krimea, and among them
many merchants and artisans, were transported
beyond the Sea of Azoph, and formed the new colo¬
nies of Naktchivan and Rostof, between the Don
and the Berda; but the great emigration of the
natives took place between the years 1785 and
1788, after the conquest of the Krimea by the
Russians. Thousands, and tens of thousands, sold
their property for a trifle, and departed to the
provinces of Turkey, especially to Anatolia and
lloinelia. Owing to the losses sustained during the
intrigues of Russia, the ravages of the plague, and
the emigrations above mentioned; in the year 1793,
there were in the Krimea only 83,493 males, and
122,124 females, or a total of 205,617 souls, includ¬
ing all foreigners, and even the Russian forces: so
that, in about twenty years, the Taurida had lost
300,000 of its inhabitants. Indeed, the loss amount¬
ed to more; for Pallas has made an error in his table,
in stating that in 1793 the number of male Tartars
346 CLASSES OF THE POPULATION OF THE KRIMEA.
was 48,484, whilst that of the females was no less
than 99,280; an error of about 40,000; as the
males and females were nearly equal.
Mr. Reuilly has given the following as a correct
report of that census; viz. that the Ivrimea con¬
tained 157,133 souls, among whom were
Males. Females.
Noble Tartars -
Priests of all classes
Tartar labourers -
Slaves of different origin
Nogays taken at An&pa
Bohemians, Tsiganii, or Gipsies
Merchants in towns, of different classes
Burgesses and workmen * -
Persons in service
Russian slaves, domestics '
Russian colonists of the crown
Colonists transplanted by the nobility -
Colonists of the Greek faith
Corps of the Kozaks of the Black Sea -
Priests of the Christian religion, or people at¬
tached to the service of the churches
Domestics of the crown and their families
-
570
465
-
4519
4105
-
49520
50280
-
345
405
-
4331
3593
-
1164
1561
-
1780
1048
-
6220
5346
-
1185
247
-
110
116
-
4861
3397
-
1987
1672
-
1165
586
-
5803
}
89
33
382
270
By a more correct census of 1800, the number
of male Tartars amounted to 120,000, which
doubled for the females, makes a total of 240,000,
and, probably, this was near the truth.
I cannot conceive upon what foundation Hassel
in 1816, and Crome in 1818, stated the population
of the Ivrimea at 304,500 souls; since in the year
1821, the Russian geographer Yablovskii does
not make it higher than 254,931, of whom 73,000
CLASSES OF THE POPULATION OF THE KRIMEA. 347
were said to be male Tartars * : a statement which
does not tally with an account received from
“ a Tatar Secretary of the Land Tribunal/’ by
Mrs. Holderness. According to him the population
in all amounted to 260,000 souls, of whom 186,000
were male Tartars. From these data, we may
conclude that the total population of the Krimea
does not exceed 280,000 souls, even if we allow
20,000 or 25,000 increase of population within the
last few years.
Of the Tartar population, there are not above
600 nobles, and 5000 priests, with their families;
of course all the rest may be called peasants or
labourers, who till the ground for their superiors,
upon the conditions already mentioned.
I have been more particular with respect to the
population of the Krimea, because this peninsula is
likely to become the theatre of contest, should war
take place between Turkey, joined by any of the
great powers of Europe, and Russia; and, espe¬
cially, should Russia become a maritime power.
According to Pallas, the nobility and the clergy
have always been held in high consideration by
the Tartars of the Krimea; and so great was
their influence at one time, that they could often
resist the orders of the Khan, and cause him to be
deposed.t
* Noveishee Zemleopisaniye Rossiiskoi Imperii, vol. ii«
p.174.
f Pallas’s Second Travels, vol.i. p.76.
848 CHARACTER OF THE TARTARS. — COLONIES.
Mrs. Holderness justly says, that “ the Tatars of
the Krimea may be divided into three classes: the
murzas, or noblemen ; the mullas, or priests; and
the peasantry : the latter paying great deference to
both the former. The mulla is considered the
head of every parish ; and nothing of consequence
to the community is undertaken without his coun¬
sel. His land is ploughed for him ; his corn sown,
reaped, and carried home; and it is seldom that
the proprietor of the soil takes tithe of the priest.”*
To the same modest and intelligent writer I am
indebted for the following remarks respecting the
natives of the peninsula.!
“ The highest points of excellence in the Tatar
character are their sobriety and chastity, for both
of which they are universally remarkable and
praiseworthy. The Tatar law, I have been told,
in cases of infidelity, sentences the offender to be
placed in a grave dug for the purpose, when, the
whole neighbourhood being assembled from many
versts round, each person present flings a stone,
and the delinquent is thus sacrificed to the rage of
offended feelings. The Crim Tatars, however,
now living under the Russian government, and
* New Russia, p.218*
f For an account of the colonies in New Russia, the reader
may peruse Mrs. Holderness’s work, in which, in succession,
she treats of the Russians (Great Russians), the M&lo-Russians
(Little Russians), the Nogay Tartars, the Greeks, the Germans,
the Armenians, and the Bulgarians. Vide Neiv Russia , p. 107*
LITERATURE OF THE TARTARS. 349
subject to Russian laws, are no longer able to exer¬
cise their own customs, and this, among the rest,
has fallen into disuse.” #
“ The act of digging in a sitting posture is, per¬
haps, as good a specimen as can be given of Tatar
industry. It is very usual to see them (the Tatars)
hewing wood with pipes in their mouths, and per¬
forming this double operation, even in moderate
weather, with the additional incumbrance of a
heavy pelisse.” t
The following observations relating to subjects
little noticed by travellers, were kindly commu¬
nicated to me by a gentleman who, during a
long residence in the Krimea, maintained a con¬
stant intercourse with the Tartars, and who was
familiar with their language, customs, and manners.
The reader, I think, will agree with me, that they
are very valuable. I shall use the form and the
words of my correspondent.
“ Literature. — This subject may Soon be dis¬
cussed, for, in fact, there is scarcely any thing
among the Tartars worthy the name of literature.
There is not one living Mahomedan author in the
Krimea, and when I have mentioned this circum¬
stance to the effendis, they gave it as their excuse
that every thing worthy of being written is con¬
tained in the books already in their hands. These
New Russia, &c. p. 2113.
f Ibid. p. 275.
350 POETRY AND GEOGRAPHY OF THE TARTARS.
books are mostly of a religious nature, if that epithet
may be applied to the heterogeneous collections of
fables, legendary tales, comments on the Koran,
and instructions as to the various articles of the
Mahomedan creed, and their numerous and ridicu¬
lous ceremonies. Of books of tales they are immo¬
derately fond, in common with other Asiatic nations.
In the library attached to the mosque of the khans,
at Baktchiserai, there are some splendid Asiatic
manuscripts, but they are only used by the effendis,
in order to ascertain or settle any doubtful point
of Mahomedan law.
“Poetry. — There are a great many poems in
circulation. I have met with a Tartar translation
of the Gulistan of Hafiz. Their poetry is of a very
low character. Though abounding with imagery, it
is very dull and lifeless; and the sense is uniformly
sacrificed to the sound, and the clashing of the rhyme.
As to songs, they have many; but the use of them
is confined to the common people. They are
amorous, and often very licentious.
“ Geography — Of this interesting science, the
Tartars are woefully ignorant. The idea of this
earth’s being an extended plain seems to be com¬
mon to all rude nations. Hence the elephant of
the Indian mythology, which is said to rest on the
back of a tortoise, and to support the world on its
own. Instead of an elephant, the Tartars believe
this very serviceable animal to be an ox, on one
horn of which rests the world ; and, lest any part
MEDICINE OF THE TARTARS.
351
of the story should want its wonder, we are told
that when the ox is fatigued (as it must naturally
be) by sustaining the huge burden on the one
horn, it removes it to the other 5 and this motion,
we are further told, is the real printum mobile of
earthquakes! The effendis, in the height of their
wisdom, ridicule the doctrine of the earth’s revo¬
lution ; and, indeed, their prophet, the main pillar
of whose system is ignorance, seems also to have
dreaded the very idea of such a revolution. ‘ He
hath created the heavens without visible pillars to
sustain them, and hath thrown on the earth moun¬
tains firmly rooted, that it might not move with
you .’ — Koran, ch. xxxi.
“ Medicine. — Of this the Tartars are also very
ignorant, although there are no less than fifty shop¬
keepers in Baktchiserai, who earn their subsistence,
in part, by the sale of a few simples. The healing art
is practised by some old women, commonly called
Kari Hakim, or women doctors, who arc in much
repute, and whose sagacious advices are implicitly
followed. But the sovereign cure of all diseases is
the reading of the Koran, which is generally per¬
formed by the priest; though, as in other countries,
he is seldom called for while a hope of life remains.
The poor patient comforts himself with the i*eflec-
tion, that should this last reriiedy fail, by rewarding
the priest well for his trouble, the merit of the ce¬
remony will be counted to him in the other world.
352 PUBLIC SCHOOLS OF THE TARTARS.
“ Public Schools .—In the above table (vide p. 265.)
you will observe mention made of three public Ma-
homedan schools. These are attached to as many
mosques, and are chiefly designed for such as have an
eye to the priesthood. There are, at an average, one
hundred scholars in each. They generally attend
during the winter months, and are reckoned very
clever if, in the course of ten or fifteen years, they
be able to read the Koran with fluency and accu¬
racy. As to the meaning of this sacred book, they
hold it impossible for any mortal fully to understand
it, and they ridicule the very idea of a verbal trans¬
lation. The full exposition of one word, nay, of
one letter, say they, would fill many volumes, and
therefore the ejfendis think it criminal to translate
their boasted Koran verbatim. They choose one
sentence, or two, as the starting point of a long
lecture, which is listened to with the greatest pos¬
sible gravity and attention. On this account
scarcely half a dozen individuals can be found who
have any idea of the contents of the book. There
are several smaller schools, called melctub, where
children are initiated into the knowledge of the
alphabet, and the mechanical pronunciation of the
Koran. One or two of these schools are taught by
females, and attended by children of the same sex.”
We were told that the ride by the sea-coast from
Sudak to Kaffa was not worth the trouble; but
had we taken Pallas and Castelnau for our guides,
tauaktasii. — suijk-su. 353
wo should have had more correct notions. Ac¬
cording to them, the valleys of Koos, Tokluk,
Otuus, and Karadagh, are well worthy of a visit.
In consequence of an agreement with the Tar¬
tars, we retained the horses we took from Kutlak
during our wanderings about Sudak, and even
two versts on our way to Sympheropole, by the
post-road. We changed horses at Taraktash, of
which Pallas has given a view, as well as of the
Cock’s-comb rock.* The valley of Taraktash is
a number of versts in length, and a rivulet of the
same name flows through it. It is one of those
charming spots of which description can only con¬
vey a faint idea. Gentle elevations, round and
conical hills, and ridges of mountains covered to
their summits with woods and brushwood, decorate
the sides of the valley, while its ends are bounded
by high hills, behind which rise lofty clifls and
peaked mountains. In the evening we came to
Suuk-Su, an estate which, for many years, has be¬
longed to Admiral Mordvinof. We had expected
to have found quarters in a small house there, be¬
longing to the steward, but it was already occu¬
pied by a visitor, who showed no wish to share
his accommodations with us. We were, therefore,
* Pallas derives Taraktash from Tarak , a cock’s-comb, and
Task , a rock; and the adjoining ridge of Breccia rock has some
resemblance to a cock’s-comb. Sultan Katti-Gherri Krim-
Gherri informed us, however, that Tarak simply means a comb
and Task a stone.
VOL. 1.
A A
354
Su6k-SU. — ELBUZLI.
obliged to take up our quarters in the small house
of one of the Tartars, which consisted of a single
oblong square apartment, in which we were all
huddled together upon the cushions and pillows of
its inmates, spread upon the cold clay floor. This
was one of the most miserable villages we had
seen, although its exterior appearance rather in¬
dicated superiority.
From Suuk-Su we continued our route through
a fine vale, amid scenery rather beautiful, than
grand or sublime. In one place, we remarked a
ridge of rock running towards the road, with per¬
pendicular sides, like an immense wall, and its
summit so broken, irregular, and indented, that
it much resembled a cock’s-comb. Pallas describes
this ridge which runs from west to east, under an
inclination of 50° towards the south. We passed
the village of Elbuzli, which is chiefly remarkable
on account of its mosque and minaret. As in the
villages near Sudak, the houses here have inclined
roofs. Soon after leaving Elbuzli, we emerged
from the vale, and from the woody and alpine
scenery of the Krimea. An extensive plain lay
before us; bold rocks were seen at some dis¬
tance on the right, and on the left, to which we
turned, the road, as it were, marked the line of
demarcation between an open champaign coun¬
try, and numerous woody dells, bounded by the
mountains of the Krimea. We saw different villages
mentioned by Pallas, add were struck by the
TILLING.
KARASSUBAZAR.
355
Tartar method of tilling the ground. One man
held the plough, while two of his fellows guided
six pair of oxen and buffaloes, each pair at a
considerable distance from the other. This ap¬
peared a very unnecessary number ; but we after¬
wards found that the Tartars were surpassed by
the Georgian mountaineers, who employ eight,
nine, and even ten pair of oxen, and five men
to guide a single plough As we approached Ka-
rassubazar, situated on a plain, its fine appearance
induced us to believe that it was a much more
important town than in reality. In the suburbs,
a number of very long white-washed low houses
have been erected, which we found were barracks,
and near them a regiment was encamped in the
fields. Numerous mosques, with their graceful
minarets, and especially one with a double balcony ;
the Christian churches; the houses with their white¬
washed pyramidal chimneys; an immense castle¬
looking edifice called a khan ; and the whole inter¬
mixed with gardens and adorned with elegant pop¬
lars, raised expectations, if not of magnificence, at
least of beauty and order, which were altogether
fallacious. * No sooner had we forded the river
Karassu (Black-water), than we entered narrow,
winding, irregular, dirty, and mean streets, ex¬
tremely disfigured by the low walls of the courts
around the houses.
* Pallas gives a good view of Karassubazar.
A A 2
856 KARASSUBAZAR. — ITS COMMERCE.
Karassubazar occupies a central situation in the
Krimea, and lies upon the post-road from Baktchise-
rai to Kaffa and to Kertch. It is the great mart, the
emporium, of the Krimea, especially of fruit and
wine. The Russian merchants come hither and
make their purchases. The Krim apples are sold
here hy the gross, and are afterwards transported all
over the south, and even the north of Russia; and
they are sold at a high price both at Petersburgh
and Moscow. The wines are sent to the chief
government towns, and, I suppose, are the principal
ingredients employed for the adulteration of foreign
wines, in which the Russian merchants are not ex¬
ceeded, if equalled, by any set of men in the habit¬
able globe. The Jews are extensively employed in
making wine. The grapes, brought from the fertile
valleys of the mountainous districts of the penin¬
sula, as well as from the neighbouring vineyards,
are sold to them, and they contrive to make a
good and profitable trade. We entered a num¬
ber of their wine-cellars; but if we could find no
good wine, we had no reason to,complain of its
price, at three, four, five, and six roubles a vedro of
fifteen bottles. The great error of all the vintners
is, that they sell the wines of the Krimea almost as
soon as made ; and thus it never gets time to show
its real qualities. A weekly market takes place,
and a great annual fair is held, at Karassubazar.
Great abundance of horses and horned cattle are
always to be found for sale at this place.
ITS FORTH ESS-LIKE KIIAN.—ITS MANUFACTURES. 357
Among the shops in the centre of the town is a
large building, exactly resembling an old fortress,
called a khan. Its high walls, all of which are pene¬
trated by gates, include an oblong square, of con¬
siderable size. Its interior is occupied by shops,
magazines, and store-rooms, and was crowded with
visitors and merchants, who had come from great
distances to attend the fair, which was about to
take place. Among others, some of the mountain
tribes of the Caucasus gave us an idea of the people
whose confines we were soon to reach. Karassu-
bazar is ornamented by about twenty mosques, a
Greek church, a fine Roman Catholic church
lately erected, a Russian church, an Armenian
church, and a Jewish synagogue. When Pallas
wrote, it contained about a thousand private dwell¬
ings, iptermixed with numerous small khans and
baths. Coffee-houses abound in every street and
lane, and in them the coffee is prepared in the
Oriental manner; it is quite thick when used,
and no cream is given with it. There are nume¬
rous shops here and there, in which we found
lemons and oranges in plenty. Karassubazar also
contains many tanneries, candle and soap manufac¬
tories, and tile-works; for the greatest part of the
houses here are built of sun-dried bricks, have
sloping roofs, and are covered with tiles. This
town has long been famed for its manufacture of
red and yellow morocco, and not without reason;
as it is of a very superior quality, being soft and
a a 3
358
POPULATION.-TRINITY SUNDAY.
pliant like silk, and at the same time thick and
strong.
Pallas estimated the fixed male population of
Karassubazar at about 1500, nearly 1000 of whom
were Tartars; more than 300 Talmud Jews; as
many Armenians, one third of them Catholics;
100 Greeks; and a few Russians. The number
of females did not exceed 1000. His account is
not very clear; but I suppose, from his data,
that the total population did not exceed 3000;
though Dr. Clarke, drawing from the same source,
carried it to 3700, not including the troops of the
garrison or barracks already spoken of. The gene¬
ral population was then, and still is, formed of
Tartars, Armenians, Greeks, Italians, and Russians,
who have their separate places of worship. In
1821, Mrs. Holderness said the population was
3000, which was too low. This town has now
nearly 5000 inhabitants.
It was on Trinity Sunday that we made our first
visit to Karassubazar, and, according to the custom
of Russia, the streets and houses were decorated
with trees and flowers; a sight, I should suppose,
which could not be very agreeable to the Tartars,
and which might remind them of their subjection.
Had the Russians only ornamented their own houses,
and the neighbourhood of their own church, they
would have acted prudently; but thus to force a
religious custom upon those of another faith, is at
all times a very questionable policy. It was an act
d£pot of medicines. — anecdote. 3.59
of the police, and the police is not only efficient,
but omnipotent, in Russia, and especially in small
towns.
The Depot of medicines, for the general use of
the Krimea, was transported from Yenikale to
Karassubazar, in the year 1790. It has been
hastily asserted by some travellers, including Dr.
Clarke, that there was not a single physician in the
Krimea; but ever since the Russians took pos¬
session of this peninsula, medical men, attached
to the army, have resided in different parts, and
more were not wanted, as we well know that the
Tartars require little assistance from the medical
art. Castelnau relates a story so extraordinary,
that the reader may possibly doubt his accuracy.
The circumstance occurred at Karassubazar.
“ I shall never forget,” says he, “ that wishing
for a grain of emetic tartar , I was obliged to wait
six hours, when seven or eight persons, many of
them with swords at their sides, came, without hav¬
ing been required, in order to administer it. Phy¬
sicians, surgeons, and apothecaries filled my cham¬
ber. It was impossible to avoid laughing. These
gentlemen, a little out of countenance, regained
the door; but their image will not be so soon
effaced, and still less so the discourses which they
held respecting my disease, although I complained
of no indisposition. The emetic tartar was for the
coachman.”
Thus it would appear, from one traveller, that
a a 4
360 MEDICAL STAFF IN RUSSIA.-CEMETERIES.
we were in danger of dying in the Krimea, from
the want of medical assistance, and, from the
other, of being greatly inconvenienced by its ex¬
cess.
At present, throughout the Russian empire,
every government has an uprdva, which may be
called its civil medical stafij and consists of an
inspector, an operator, and an accoucheur; and
every district in every government has a surgeon.
All the surgeons are subject to the uprdvas, and
they to the chief of the Medical Civil Department ,
at Petersburgh ; so that though, in many places,
there still be a deficiency of medical men, this is not
the fault of government, but is to be attributed to
the widely-spread population. Besides, all the
army practitioners regularly exercise their talents
in the vicinity of their stations, and often make
considerable sums of money from this incidental
practice.
We had remarked the dilapidated state of the
cemeteries of the Tartars in different places, as
well as at Karassubazar; and the cautious Pallas,
while he dared not show his indignation at the
sacrilegious violation of these sanctuaries by the
conquerors of the Krimea, explains the reason of
their ruinous state. “ The Russians,” says he,
“ since they have had possession of the Taurida,
remove the hewn stones, accumulated in the vast
cemeteries of the Tartars, in order to build public
edifices, or houses, in all the towns, and especially
DESOLATION OF THE KRIMEA.
oti]
at Karassub&zar.” Had he added. What pro¬
fanation ! he would have lost his situation as pro¬
fessor ; but, had he said, that the Russians annihil¬
ated what all other nations respected with holy
awe, and approached with reverence — the monu¬
ments of the dead,—he might have been sent to
breathe “ the free air of Siberia,” instead of ending
his days, in the Krimea. Though his mind was
fettered, it is evident that Pallas wished to speak
truth, and often does so, in a train of sentences
which develop his thoughts, though he leaves the
reader to make the inference; and this, at times, he
accomplishes ingeniously. An example we have
now before us. Immediately after the above
quotation, he informs us that limestone fit for build¬
ing, and out of which columns are cut, lies all
round Karassubazar. The reader, of course, de¬
mands, Why did not the Russians go to the quar¬
ries for materials, and leave the tomb-stones of
the Tartars untouched ?
We have heard much of the forbearance, kind¬
ness, and toleration of Russia towards her conquered
provinces, and she often deserves that praise ; but,
assuredly, for many years, the Tartars were treated
with much severity, which led to great emigration.
They have also suffered the most violent insults:
their mosques, their minarets, their palaces, their
baths, their water-conduits, their fountains, and
even their tombs, have been thrown down, ruined,
and rased. I heartily joined in the noble indig-
3()‘2 ANECDOTE.-DRIVE IN TELEGAS.
nation, and generous feeling, every where shown by
Clarke, when these scenes of destruction, and al¬
most total annihilation presented themselves.
There are no good inns at Karassubazar, and we
got possession of some rooms in a private house ;
but nobody would undertake to make a dinner for.
us,—a circumstance which greatly excited our
surprise. At length an individual, to whom we had
sent, returned an answer, that “ Ifxoe xvere not Rus¬
sians, he would make us a good dinner,” and the
business was easily arranged. On demanding an
explanation of this curious answer, it was replied,
that the Russians often take possession of rooms,
dine, drink coffee and tea, and call for wine, &c. at
pleasure; and, instead of paying a bill, give any
trifling sum they please, and depart. There is no
doubt of this truth, and such a practice prevails
throughout the Russian dominions. Many of the
richer nobles, and of the higher classes of officers,
would spurn at such conduct; but most of the
lower ranks of the aristocracy, and of the mili¬
tary, do not hesitate a moment about “ trifles of
this kind.”
Instead of continuing our journey from Karas¬
subazar on horseback, our party agreed to pro¬
ceed in the lightest and most common vehicles in
Russia, telegas, or small four-wheeled carts, so as
to have an idea of Russian travelling. Leaving
our servants to follow with our luggage, we set off
in three telegas accordingly, and flew at the rate
DRIVE IN TELEGAS.
363
of twenty versts (thirteen miles at least) per hour
to Sympheropole, the time for changing the horses
once not included. We had previously arranged
some straw and pillows to break the jolts, as well as
straps to hold by, for greater security. The road was,
for the most part, level and excellent, so that we
rarely ceased from a full gallop. The vignette to
the first chapter gives an excellent idea of the man¬
ner in which we proceeded. The Russian drivers
entered into the spirit of contest, and a regular
telega race was the consequence. They cared for
no danger; but like most of their comrades, to
use a vulgar phrase, they drove through “ thick
and thin.” After descending a hill near Zuiskaya,
as rapidly as possible, we dashed into a rivulet, and
crossedit at full speed. The sight of the stream
had inspired us with fear, as it was impossible to
stop the horses, or even to check their progress.
We seized hold of the straps, but notwithstanding
all our efforts, we were tossed into the air by jolts
on the banks of the river, and were nearly thrown
over the sides of the telegas. Luckily, we escaped
the danger without any other injury than some
slight contusions and a good wetting.
The country through which we passed was va¬
riegated with plains, valleys, and gentle elevations;
and a great part of it was pasture land. We met
numerous basket-work carts, some on two, others
on four wheels, proceeding to the approaching fair
at Karassubazar,
361 THUNDER-STORM AT SYMPHEROPOLE.
We had now passed pound the Tchatir-Dagh,
and remarked, that, with a trifling variation, it
maintained the same appearance on every side.
“ With what different eyes lias this singularly
shaped mountain been viewed by different nations;
and how plainly have they betokened their several
habits in the names which they have chosen to
affix to it! The Greeks called it Table Mountain;
the Tatars, Tent Mountain ; the Cossacks, Saddle
Mountain ; but an Englishman at Sevastopol told
a friend of mine, that he considered it as resem¬
bling nothing so much as a sirloin of beef.” •
We remained two days at Sympheropole, and
wished to ascend the Tchatir-Dagh; but the weather
proved extremely unfavourable, and again baffled
our plans. While we were at dinner, on the 22d
May, a violent thunder-storm, accompanied with a
heavy shower, and followed by large hail, some¬
what surprised us, at the season of the year, in such
a warm climate.
Leaving Sympheropole late in the evening of
the 23d May, we retraced our route to Karassu-
bazar during the night, lodged in our carriages, the
comfort of which we were more sensible of after
the telega drive We continued our journey from
thence to Kaffa, by the post-road, which offers
little variety. It is generally level, or has only very
slight elevations, with ranges of hills on both sides.
* New Russia, p. 312.
KAFFA.— ANECDOTE.-ANCIENT MOSQUE. S()5
Tlie profusion o t'Spireaflipcndida, and Salvia Au,s-
triaca, in these districts, was remarkable. These
plants were the chief ornaments of the fields.
Some ancient square towers in the distance warned
us of our approach to Kaffa. As we entered the
town, a pyramid, surrounded by trees, and by a low
balustrade, induced us to stop and ask what monu¬
ment it was. We were answered that it was a
“fountain,” and not a monument: —but it was a
fountain without water. The truth is, that Mr.-,
willing to assist the inhabitants in recovering the
lost springs, had this pyramid erected, and they are
now searching for the water. This is really putting
the cart before the horse, no uncommon occurrence
with the Russians.
As we rode along a beautiful bay, we passed a
boulevard, and were informed that the two most
remarkable edifices, nearly opposite it, were the
Tribunals, and the Post-office. We were well
accommodated at Kaffa in an inn, kept by a French¬
man, who proved himself an excellent cook. In
the same square with our lodgings, we examined
an ancient mosque, covered by a large, but low,
cupola, which we found was now converted into a
Roman Catholic chapel, although the badge of Ma-
homedanism, the crescent, rising over three arches
cut in the stone, still proclaimed its former appro¬
priation. On the top of its chief ornament, the
minaret, from which the rnohla was wont, five times
a-day, to summon the Mahomedans to their duty,
360 APPEARANCE OF KAFFA.-ITS DAY.
are now suspended some small bells, whose peals
assemble the Catholic Christians to mass.
I had perused various accounts of Kaffa, and
remembered the ancient splendour, magnitude, and
importance of Theodosia, while overlooking the
place from the minaret just mentioned. This
boasted town — Little Constantinople — now occu¬
pies a small level space between the bay and a semi¬
circle of hills. It contains but few streets, and
scarcely any of them are regular. On every side
innumerable ruins of former edifices present them¬
selves, and the public buildings erected by the
crown, only seemed like a few rays of light burst¬
ing through a black cloud, to make us more sen¬
sible of the humiliating contrast of the present,
with the Kaffa of other days. Scarcely a garden,
or a green leaf, or a tree, was to be seen within the
walls. The grass, and wild flowers, and weeds,
whose gay colours had enlivened the place in the
spring, were already dried up and withered; and the
mountains, sterile as imagination can figure, rising
in amphitheatre, seemed to reflect a majestic gloom
over the whole town, which was not a little in¬
creased by the extensive ruined walls and towers
which formed its ancient fortification. The eye
turned with pleasure from the contemplation of this
dreary scene to the beautiful bay of Theodosia,
whose now almost untroubled waters were once
covered with fleets of vessels, when the town con¬
tained 36,000 inhabitants within its walls, and, with
DESCRIPTION OF KAFFA.
367
the suburbs, about 44,000.* Kaffa was anci¬
ently named Ardanda or the town of the seven
gods, Tusba, Teudosie, and Theodosie. t During
its period of greatest prosperity, under the Genoese,
it was often designated Krim Stambul, or Constan¬
tinople of the Krimea; and, even at this day, the
Tartars sometimes nominate it Kutchuk Stambul,
or Little Constantinople.
For a particular description of ancient Kaflh, I
refer the reader to the works of Pallas, Sestrenevicz
de Bohujz, Clarke t, and Castelnau, in which he
will find the question amply discussed, whether
this town is built upon the ruins of ancient
Theodosia.
According to an account received by Mr. Heber,
previous to the conquest of the Krimea, Kaffa
consisted of 16,000 houses, a number which bears
the air of fiction. It is certain, however, that it was
a place of considerable size, magnificence, and
prosperity, and that the conquest proved its ruin.
The work of destruction and desolation, so well
depicted by Clarke, had not escaped the notice of
Pallas. We are informed by this author that,
under the Genoese, Kaffa was a most agreeable
* See Clarke’s Travels, p. 411'.
f L’Histoire de la Tauride, Introduction, p. 19. L’Histoire
de la Nouvelle Russie, vol. i. p. 204. Mrs. Hoklerness’s New
Russia, p. 136.
£ Mr. Heber's observations on Clarke's work, in notes, p. 444,
445, 454, and 540. are highly interesting.
3f)S POPULATION OF KAFFA.
town, and the most favourable one in the Taurida
for commerce; that it was enriched by trade
under the domination of the Tartar princes; and
that its native population was augmented by Ar¬
menians and Greeks. But he also tells us, that
since the Russians became masters of the Krimea,
the war with the Turks, and the subsequent emi¬
gration both of natives and foreigners, had so de¬
populated Kafia, that, with a few exceptions, it pre¬
sented nothing but an enormous mass of ruins. * He
ventured not to add, that the Tartars were no long¬
er permitted to dwell in maritime towns, of which
Kaffa was the chieft, a measure which caused the
said emigration ; or that the town then became the
residence of Greeks, Armenians, Catholics, Jews,
and of the Russian authorities, as well as of a Russian
garrison. In the year 1780, it is stated, by Clarke,
that Kaffa had a population of only fifty families, t
To the plague, in 1812, three thousand persons fell
a sacrifice; the houses, of course, were depopulated,
and both the means and the spirit for commerce
were nearly annihilated. §
According to the newest statistical map of the
Krimea, the number of houses in Kaffa amounts to
728 , in which valuation, every sun-dried brick hut,
and every clay-covered hovel, must be dignified
with the name of house.
* See Pallas’s View of Kaffa.
t V^e Castelnau’s Nouvelle Russie, vol. iii. p. 261. note.
% Travels, p. 44*5. § New Russia, p. 136.
POPULATION. -QUARANTINE.
369
Mrs. Holderness stated the population of Kaffa
at 3000 souls, which is, probably, correct. * Ge¬
nerally, there reside in it a few natives of Italy,
France, Germany, and England. We had letters
for a countryman ; but, on enquiry, we found that
lie had lately died.
In 1823, Mrs. Holderness says, “that the traf¬
fic of Kaffa is reviving, and its population rapidly
increasing, is unquestionable” t; and her view of
this town, at the end of her octavo volume, has an
imposing appearance ; but, I fear, it is a deceitful
one. The buildings exist, but most of them are
desert and forlorn. The same author informs us
that in the year 1820, no less than fifty houses were
built at Kaffa, and that at this time it contained
.5000 inhabitants; and she owns that she had
formerly underrated it at 3000 souls. On this
point I have strong reasons to be sceptical; but I
do not wish to be ungallant, and, therefore, I shall
be silent.
Mrs. Holderness admits, however, that the trade
of Kaffa is very inconsiderable, having two formid¬
able rivals in Odessa and Taganrog, t
Mr. Gaevskii, the civil-governor, gave us every
information, and accompanied us to examine the
most remarkable institution now at Kaffa, the qua¬
rantine. It was lately renewed, under the superin-
* Notes relating to the Crim Tartars, 1821.
f New Russia, p. 137. % Ibid. p. 137. 214,215.
VOL. I. B B
370 THE QUARANTINE AT KAFFA.
tendence of its former director, Mr. von Dehn, and
is one of the best establishments, of the kind, in the
Russian dominions. The extensive magazines; the
houses for the accommodation of persons who
arrive from foreign countries; and the rooms for
communications, at a distance, with their friends,
are all, as they should be, in good repair. Different
fountains, which pour down their clear water from
the hills, have been lately repaired, and yield an
abundant supply of this necessary article. On the
largest and most magnificent fountain there is a
Tartar inscription, announcing (as I was told) that
it was erected at the expense of a lady. The few
persons whom we found here in quarantine were
mostly Tartars, who had been on a pilgrimage to
Mecca, and had embarked in Anatolia.
By the erection of the quarantine ; the projected
new custom-house, and treasury; the repair of the
public fountains; and the renewal of water-conduits,
it appears that the government wishes to re-establish
Kaffa. But it might be said, as yet, that a well-
arranged quarantine was scarcely of any use;
that the temporary custom-house had almost no
custom to receive; and that the treasury was nearly
empty. The prosperity of Odessa and of Taganrog,
the disturbed state of political affairs between
Turkey and Russia, and the impolitic measures
of the crown, for many years after it had the
command of the Krimca, have all contributed
to the downfall of Kaffa.
COMMERCE OF KAFFA.— MUSEUM. 371
According to Tooke, the amount of exportation
from Kaffa in the year 1793 was 54,000 roubles*;
but that of importation is not mentioned. The fol¬
lowing table, received from the best authority,
shows the state of commerce in 1817 and 1818;
two of the most flourishingyears Kaffa has ever seen,
and sines which trade has infinitely diminished.
Balance of the Commerce of Theodosia , or Kdffa , in the Years
1817 and 1818.
1817. Importation R. 3,592,782 Exportation, . R. 4,047,586.50
Balance, . 454,804.50
R. 4,047,586.50
1818. Importation, R. 1,887,259 Exportation, . R. 1,780,953.22
Balance, . . 106,306.48
R. 1,887,259
1817. Exportation of Corn.
Wheat, . R. 3,345,225 Price of the Tchetvert, R. 25 to 32
Barley, . 58,870 Ditto, ditto, 10 to 15
Rye, . . 207,330 Ditto, ditto, 13 to 17
Maize, . 1,190 Ditto, ditto, 12 to 14
R. 3,612,615
R. 794,530 Price of the Tchetvert, R. 17
93,670 Ditto, ditto, 8
31,400 Ditto, ditto, 9
600 Ditto of the Pood, 2 to 2.40
R. 920,200
We were conducted to a small, low apartment,
not far from our inn, on which the pompous name
of Museum is bestowed. It was begun by Mr.
1818. Wheat,
Barley,
Rye,
Millet,
Tooke’s View of the Russian Empire, vol.iii. p. 631.
BB 2
372 MUSEUM.-COINS.
Bronevskii, the former natchalnik, or chief of Kafl'a.
It contains a few medals, not worthy of notice; a
few trifling minerals; and some remains of an¬
tiquity from among the ruins of the town, which
deserve attention. In my journal are especially
mentioned a number of broken urns and vases of
a small size; two urns of immense size, being the
height of an ordinary man; some marble slabs,
with Greek and Latin inscriptions; and a few
stones, with Tartar and Armenian inscriptions;
all of which excited my curiosity. But I had to
regret, that owing to the departure of our party,
I had neither time to examine these several objects
minutely, nor to copy any of the inscriptions.
Some future traveller and antiquarian may find
amusement and information within this so styled
museum, and may not be sorry that I have pointed it
out to his notice, unless the report be true, that it
has been pillaged. *
Castelnau says, it is very remarkable that we do
not meet with any coins at Theodosia, and that
the only one known as peculiar to this town, is
preserved in the imperial cabinet at Petersburgh.
This author gives a figure of it. On one side is
seen the head of a divinity ; and on the other, a
club with the legend ©ETA. t
* New Russia, p. 138.
f Nouvelle Russia, voLii. p. 210.
CHAP. IX
DEPARTURE FROM KAFFA.— KERTCH. — ITS POPULATION. —
ADMIRALTY. FORTRESS. — ANTIQUITIES. RESEARCHES OF
MR. DE BRUCKS.—MEMENTOS OF MITHRIDATES.-NEW PORT
AND QUARANTINE.— NEW PLAN OE KERTCH.-DEPARTURE.
— MILITARY ENCAMPMENT.—YENIKALE. ITS FORTRESS.—
DISAPPOINTMENT.—RETURN TO KERTCH.-SECOND DEPAR¬
TURE_PASSAGE OF THE BOSPHORUS.-THE ISLAND OF TA¬
MAN.—PHANAGORII.—CHURCH.—ANTIQUITIES.— PASSION OF
DESTRUCTION.-THE STONE OF TMUTARAKAN.— THE TOWN
OF TAMAN. — THE TCHERNOMORSKII KOZAKS.-THE FORCES
OF TAMAN. — CLASSIC GROUND. — TUMULI. — BUGHAS.-
SENNAYA.— PEREPISKA. — DREARY DRIVE. DECEPTION.—
TEMRUK_ARRIVAL AT KURTCHANSKAYA. - A VISHKA,
OR OBSERVATORY. — ANDREEVSKOI REDOUBT. — FORTRESS¬
ES. — PIQUETS. — DESCENT OF THE CIRCASSIANS. - KO-
PIL. — TCHERNOI-PROTOK. — KOPANSKAYA. — ARRIVAL
B B 3
374 DEPARTURE FROM KAFFA. — KERTCH.
AT YEKATERINODAR.—THE QUARANTINE. — A CIRCASSIAN
PRINCE.—HIS SUITE.—PRESENTS.—MANCEUVRES OF THE CIR¬
CASSIANS.—PRISON AT YEKATERINODAR.—ITS FORTRESS. —
CATHEDRAL_CIRCASSIAN PRISONERS. — DESCRIPTION OF
YEKATERINODAR. —ITS POPULATION.—THE ATAMAN.-TIIE
TCHERNOMORSKII KOZAKS.— DEPARTURE.—VILLAGES. — TU¬
MULI. — THE GREBENSKII KOZAKS.— UST LARINSKAYA.—
WILD PLANTS.—STAVROPOLE.—ROGUERY OF POST-MASTERS.
—NADEJDA —BESHFAGHIR. VIEWS.—ARRIVAL AT GEOR-
GIEVSK. — SAITH SATOON.—MORTALITY OF GOVERNORS. —
COUNT GORSKII.- INTERMITTENT FEVERS.—DESCRIPTION OF
GEORGIEVSK.—ARRIVAL AT THE SCOTCH COLONY, KARASS.
Having been informed, that an order for post-
horses to Yekaterinodar could not be obtained at
Kertch, we procured one here ; and, after having
supped with the governor, we travelled over a
dreary road, in a fine summer night, and arrived at
the latter town in the morning, where we were
kindly accommodated with excellent apartments in
the house of Monsieur de Briicks. I was not a
little surprised to find that this gentleman was a
descendant of a Scotch family, and that his
real name was one of the most illustrious in the
annals of my country. His family, along with
many others, emigrated to France on account of
rebellious conduct, where its name was changed
into de Bruce; and, in Russia, by a second trans¬
formation, it became de Briicks.
Kertch, the ancient Panticapaaum, was founded
by the Greeks above 2000 years ago, and was long
a place of great importance under the kings of the
Bosphorus. While the Krimea was under the in-
KERTCH.-ITS POPULATION. 3J5
fluence of the Turks, they kept a strong garrison in
it, and a Pascha also had his residence here. At
the peace of 1774, between the Porte and Russia,
Kertcli and Yenlkale were the only places, in the
whole peninsula, which remained in possession of
the latter. The Tartars then left Kertch, and it fell
into the hands of the Greeks. At the time of Pallas’s
and Clarke’s visits it was reduced to “ extreme
wretchedness.” Previous to the occupation of the
Krimea by the Russians, it does not appear to have
been a place of great size, or of great population;
yet Clarke, in one place, speaks of having been
informed, that the Russians destroyed 5000 houses j
while, in another place, he alludes to only 500
having been levelled to the earth * ; and, beyond
question, the last estimate was correct. In 1804,
the Russian geographer Stchekatof says this
town consisted of only about a hundred miserable
houses. In ISIS, Vsevolojskii speaks of its popu¬
lation amounting to “ quelques centaines de males /”
By the new statistical map of the Krimea, it
can now boast no more than 154 houses, and its
population does not exceed 300 or 400 souls. It
is still a miserable place, and contains a few paltry
shops, among which, with difficulty, we procured
tea and sugar, though it is well supplied with ex¬
cellent bread, biscuit, and macaroni. A few lately
erected private houses have a lively aspect amid
* Clarke’s Travels, p. 423. and 433. The former number,
most likely, is a typographical error.
15 B 4
37 G ADMIRALTY.-FORTRESS.-ANTIQUITIES.
the general gloom. A good idea of its public
edifices may be formed, by the question I put to a
gentleman, while we were looking down upon the
town from Mitlnidates’ hill. A long blackened
line of building, by the sea-coast, attracted our
notice, when I demanded if it was “ une fabrique
de briques ?”* “ No,” said he, “ that is the Admi¬
ralty.”
The Genoese fortress and the ancient cathedral,
so amply described by Pallas and Clarke, have been
lately repaired. Around the latter lay many pieces
of cornices, capitals, and columns, and here we
found also the headless, statue of a female of Her¬
culean size, executed in marble, the drapery of
which was extremely beautiful.
Mr. de Briicks conducted us to Altyn Obo, or
the Mont d’Or, or the tomb of [Mitlnidates, which
is well represented in one of Clarke’s plates, when
in a much more perfect state than it is now. The
same author has given a view of the tumuli near
this town, and both he and Pallas have entered into
important historical details respecting them, which
I shall not repeat. Mr. de Briicks having obtained
leave from the government, penetrated into the
interior of one of these tumuli, and found in it an
* Brick-kiln is not the translation of these words, as applied
in Russia. For at each brick-work are one, two, or more
wooden sheds of great length, beneath which the bricks are
dried before being formed into a kiln. The whole establish¬
ment is called une fabrique de briques.
RESEARCHES.-MEMENTOS OF MITHRIDATES. 377
arched entrance, and regular apartments, in which
were some coins and medals. He sold the stones
of the cavern, in order to defray the expenses of
similar operations. In 1817, the crown granted
him the paltry sum of 500 roubles, to assist his
researches, and Count Rumantsof gave him as
much for himself. He examined different tumuli,
which were constructed in a manner similar to
that above noticed, and their contents were also
the same. In a few of them he likewise found
some bones. He has made different reports to the
government on the subject of his discoveries, and
has communicated various papers and plans to 4
the Society of Belles Lettres at Petersburgh, in
consequence of which he has been made one of its
members. It is to be hoped that they will be pub¬
lished in the memoirs of that society. At present
Mr. de Briicks is unemployed, and no one is al¬
lowed to make researches without permission.
At Kertch we felt ourselves on classic ground,
where the name of Mithridates was associated with
numerous objects. We were shown his tomb, his
hill, his arm-chair, &c. &c. The hill of Mithridates
overhangs the town, and on its top is cut out of
the solid rock, an immense seat, called “ Mithri-
clates * Arm-chair .” No man of just feelings can
peruse an accurate account of the vicissitudes of
the life, and of the death of the great Mithridates,
without heaving a sigh!
In 1793 (according to Tooke) the whole export¬
ation of Kertch amounted to only 9960 roubles.
378 PORT, QUARANTINE, AND PLAN OF KERTCH.
It was a favourite idea of Pallas, that a general
quarantine for the Sea of Azoph should be formed
at this town, and he supposed that the empire
would gain in different respects by such an estab¬
lishment, particularly as a sure means of guaran¬
teeing the interior provinces from the plague; of
economising the expenses of the quarantine at
Taganrog and elsewhere; and of facilitating export¬
ation. But he says this plan had always failed,
because the ruin of Taganrog would be one of
the consequences of its adoption, and means had
always been taken to prevent its execution. At
length the government seem duly impressed with
the importance of Kertch, both as a sea-port, and
as a general quarantine. Mr. Scassi, who is a native
of France, and who has resided in Circassia, in the
Caucasus, and in Georgia, and in other parts of the
empire, has been lately appointed “ the Guardian of
the Commerce of Kertch.” This is quite bombastic,
and d la Russe ; for it may be said that, at the time
of our visit, there was no commerce to guard.
The town of Kertch is to be re-built upon a
new and regular plan, which we saw, and is to
be surrounded by one boulevard, while another
stretches toward the hill of Mithridates, as an or¬
nament and general promenade. The port is to
be improved, and a new quarantine, upon an excel¬
lent plan, is to be erected. Mr. von Dehn, of whom
I have spoken at Kaffa, was at Kertch, with a
view to superintend the erection of the quarantine.
DEPARTURE. — MILITARY ENCAMPMENT. 879
It is proposed to establish commerce between
Kertch and Circassia, and Georgia, as well as
with the Don and the vicinity of the Sea of Azoph.
Mr. Scassi hopes that this commerce will soon
be facilitated by the aid of steam-boats, which are
to cross the Bosphorus and proceed to the Don,
to Georgia, to Circassia, and to other parts on the
coast of the Black Sea.
We had heard such contradictory reports as to
tiie difficulty or facility of the passage of the Bos¬
phorus, that we were ' quite undecided whether
we should attempt it, or proceed from Kertch
to Taganrog, and from thence to the Caucasus.
This point was at once determined here, and the
master of the port ordered a gun-boat to be pre¬
pared. The carriages were embarked at the admi¬
ralty, and the servants being with them, the vessel
set sail in the night, though the wind was contrary.
On the following morning she lay at anchor at the
distance of six or seven miles from the shore.
Accompanied by Mr. Scassi, we set out for Yem-
kale. We soon reached the site of the projected
quarantine, by the side of a small bay, near which
are two fountains. Here it was supposed was
situated the ancient Panticapaeum; and the ruins
of an old tower, described by Pallas, are still visible.
We soon arrived at an encampment of a com¬
pany of soldiers, under the command of a Major
Lambert, who came out and conducted us to his
tent. This gentleman was formerly an officer in
380 YENIKALE.-ITS FORTRESS.
the guards of Napoleon, and lost his all for his
fidelity. One could not think, without sympathy,
of the fate of a man who had formerly moved in
the great and gay world, now passing his days in
this remote corner of the globe. We soon reached
Yenikale, and, descending a hill, entered this mi¬
serable town, which consists chiefly of a row of
shops by the seaside, and is almost entirely peopled
with Greeks. Its population does not exceed 300
or 400 souls, and the number of its houses is
only ninety-eight. Some very fine-looking women,
with dark eyes and black hair, came out to the
doors and stared at us, as we rambled through the
town. The males are good-looking healthy men.
Each pays annually the sum of five roubles to the
crown, and they are obliged to transport all tra¬
vellers, soldiers, &c. to Taman. For this service
they are exempted from all other taxes. They are
great fishers, and have about eighty passage and
fishing boats.
As we entered the fortress, we examined the
fountain of the sarcophagus described by Pallas
and Clarke, the latter of whom has well repre¬
sented it in a vignette.
To the ample description of the castle, given by
Pallas, I have nothing to add. We dined with
the commandant. General Bucholtz, who told us,
that it was out of the question to think of passing
the Bosphorus, as the wind was contrary and
strong. He also stated, that it sometimes blew
PASSAGE OF THE BOSPHORUS.
381
three, six, and eight days in the same direction;
and that the passage was always uncertain. Count
Langeron had once been detained many days
here, by a contrary wind, before he sailed for
Taman; and I have been informed that Captain
Jones was obliged to remain ten days at Taman,
before he could cross to Yenikale, in the spring of
1823. Hence the necessity and the utility of a
steam-boat. Under the circumstances mentioned,
we returned to our quarters at Kertch, and passed
the evening with Mr. Scassi.
Early on the following morning, we learned that
the gun-boat had sailed, the wind having changed.
The captain of the port could not give us a good
boat, or we should have sailed from Kertch to Ta¬
man. We, therefore, returned to Yenikale, and
were received by the gorodnitcliii, or mayor of the
town, whom we had seen the preceding day, and
who well remarked, that his title had “ some sound,
but that he had neither a great office nor a great
revenue.” The gale was followed by a delight¬
ful calm, and a six-oared boat, with a pilot, conveyed
us half across the Bosphorus ; then a breeze sprung
up, and our sails were unfurled. After two hours
and a half’s sailing, we landed at Taman, and found
the servants and carriages all safe, at a lodging
provided by orders of Colonel Babayedof. Pallas’s
account of the passage of the Bosphorus is likely to
inspire travellers with fear ; but, except in a storm,
with the Greeks and their excellent boats, I should
3S2
THE ISLAND OF TAMAN.
suppose there is not the least danger in the under¬
taking. But, as we have already seen, the traveller
must run the chance of'detention, whether he wish
to pass from Kertch to Taman, or from Taman
to Kertch.
According to former geographers we were now
in the territories of Asia, but, by the new division
of the moderns, who have fixed the Terek as the
northern boundary of this quarter of the globe, we
had still some hundred miles to drive before leaving
Europe. It may not be misplaced to give the
reader an accurate idea of the region we had
reached, before advancing southward.
The island of Taman has successively borne the
names of Mintanas, Ada, Tomi, Tamatarcha, Tmu-
tarakan, and Matrega. Taman, its capital, was
the ancient Phanagoria. *
Tainan, though called a peninsula by some
authors, is decidedly an island, as will appear by
attention to the following remarks : — The Kuban,
the Hypanis of the Greeks, one of the largest rivers
of the Caucasus, has its origin in the highest moun¬
tain in this quarter of the globe, the Shat, or Elbo¬
rus, and forms the boundary, or frontier, between
the Russian empire and the Caucasian mountains.
After a long course, it gives off a branch near Ko-
pil, which is called the Tchdrnoi-Protok, and
* Histoire de la Tauride. Introduction, p.26. Histoire de
la Nouvelle Russia, vol. i. p. 205.
THE ISLAND OF TAMAN.
383
which falls into the Sea of Azoph, while the Kuban
disembogues itself into the Black Sea. Between
the Kuban, and its branch, the Tchernoi-Protok *,
Taman is completely insulated, as may be proved
by consulting any good map.
The following interesting description of Taman
is given by Sestrenevicz de Bohujz: — “ The isle
of Taman is washed on one side by the straits of
the Bosphorus, and on the other by two branches
of the river Kuban, one of which throws itself into
the Black Sea, near the mountain Kisiltash, situated
upon the left bank, where was Hermonassa towards
the embouchure. The ancient town of Korscon-
dama was upon the right bank. The other branch
empties itself into the sea of Azoph, near Temruk.
A third branch of the same river forms the island
Astchenicf, so called on account of a borough of
the same name, near which it falls into the Sea of
Azoph. The Russians now call it the Black
* Captain Cochrane, in making a kind of apology for a false
interpretation of a Russian phrase, says,—his error, however it
abased him at the time, places him in very respectable com¬
pany— “ no less than th e justly celebrated Dr. Clarke, who was
eternally crossing the river Protok, apparently ignorant that the
Protok means neither more nor less than the branch of a river.”—
Narrative of a Pedestrian Journey , p. 113. Before the Captain
repeats this remark, he had better look at p. 385—6, of Clarke’s
Travels, and consult a good map of the Caucasus. It is true,
that Protok means a rivulet, and may thus be generally applied ;
but, Tchernoi-Protok is the specific name of a branch of the
Kubdn, and means Black Rivulet; and, indeed, in comparison
with the Kuban, it may be called but a rivulet.
384 ISLAND OF TAMAN.-PHANAGORII.
Branch ( TcMrnoi-Protoh), and the Tartars desig¬
nate it Koumli, or Kara Kuban. It commences
near Kopfl, capital of the island, and formerly the
residence of a Seraskier, who commanded all the
Tartars of the Kuban, for the Khan of the Krimea.
Astchenief is larger than Taman, but it is full of
sand, and marshes covered with rushes and reeds,
which render it very unhealthy. It was originally
a peninsula; but, a little before our sera, Phar-
naces, king of the Bosphorus, transformed it into
an island by piercing the banks of the Kuban, and
by turning the waters of this third branch into the
Sea of Azopli, across the low fields of the Darda-
nians, his enemies, with the intention of inundat¬
ing them.” *
I shall now proceed to detail the result of my
own observations.
Having called upon Colonel Babayedof, and de¬
livered our letters, we walked to the fortress of
Phanagorii, supposed to occupy the place of ancient
Phanagoria, and at the distance of about a mile
from the town of Taman. Close by the gates we
examined a tumulus, which had been searched, and
whose contents had been found of the same nature
as those at Kertch. On the outside of the fortifi¬
cations a number of edifices are occupied by a
corps of engineers. The fortress, which lies upon
a plain, was founded by Suvarof. It occupies an
* Histoire de la Tauride. Introduction, p. 25.
CHURCH AT TAMAN.-ANTIQUITIES. 385
immense space, and is surrounded by a ditch, and
a low earthen rampart, upon which are mounted
numerous cannon. It contains about twenty edi¬
fices, which are used as barracks, hospitals, "maga¬
zines, officers’ lodgings, &c., and makes a very re¬
spectable appearance. But it is a place of no
strength ; and could not withstand a well-directed
attack a single day. It forms the head-quarters
of the island of Taman. After having made a
visit to Golonel Kalamara, a Greek, who is stationed
here, we returned to the town of Taman.
After dinner, we walked to the Greek church, ac¬
companied by Captain Kapusta (Captain Cabbage,
literally translated) of the Tchernomorskii Kozaks.
This sacred temple is also become a considerable
museum. The last ataman of these Kozaks, I was
told, had a taste for antiquities ; and, indepen¬
dently of Imperial order, had carefully preserved
every fragment of marble, and every inscription he
could find. To tell the truth, the collection here
is by far the most numerous, and the best, in the
south of the Russian dominions. I should have been
happy to have spent a couple of days, instead of a
couple of hours, at this place, but that was impos¬
sible. Some future traveller will find a harvest
worthy of his labours, in giving an account of those
antiquities, which the savage Tchernomorskii Ko¬
zaks have not only spared, but carefully assembled
together, and which they now guard with atten-
VOL. i.
c c
380
PASSION OF DESTRUCTION.
tion. How unlike the conduct of the conquerors
of the Krimea!
Dr. Clarke has said, that Turks are men of taste
and science, in comparison of the Russians, and,
no doubt, he would have given the same com¬
parative praise to the Kozaks of the Black Sea.
To whatever cause it may be ascribed, whether to
the Passion of destruction, or not, it must be fairly
allowed .that the Russians destroyed what even the
Tartars had revered, though they could not com¬
prehend, and what the Kozaks of the Euxine
would have guarded, had they had the power.
To this general censure, Count Mushin-Pushkin is
a most honourable exception. This nobleman has
contributed his share to the commemoration of
every thing worthy of history, in a learned work
respecting Taman.*
Among other debris at the church, I remarked
three columns of Cipelino marble, numerous capi¬
tals, many blocks, and some imperfect marble sta¬
tues, the drapery of which was very fine. Nume¬
rous pieces of marble were also scattered about
the churchyard. In the interior of the temple
were piled up, in regular order, upwards of twenty
massy broad stones, covered with Greek inscrip¬
tions, all of which might, with time, have been
deciphered and copied. I may remark here
* Istoritcheskoye Isledovaniye o Mestopolojeniyd Drevnaho
llossitskaho Tmutarakanskaho Kniajeniye, 1794.
STONE OF TMUTARAKAN.-TOWN OF TAMAN. 387
that both Pallas and Clarke have inaccurately ren¬
dered the inscription, in Sclavonic, which exists
upon the celebrated marble slab, that threw so
much light upon the Russian principality of Tmu¬
tarakan, and thence have led to an important blun¬
der. In both works, it runs to this effect: — “ In
the year 6576 (1065) indict. 6, Prince Gleb mea¬
sured the sea on the ice; and the distance from
Tmutarakan to Kertch was 30,054 sajins (fa¬
thoms).” * Now the year 6576 corresponds to
A. D. 1068; and the distance of the passage be¬
tween these places is not 30,054 fathoms, which
would make 60y versts, but only 8054 fathoms,
which make l6| versts. This is the real distance
between Kertch and Taman.
Taman, it is said, was once a very large town,
and its present inhabitants report that it con¬
tained 7000 houses. It now contains only forty-
seven houses, and is not worthy the name of town.
Its stationary population does not exceed 150
males, and its vicinity is covered with ruins. In
the year \ 7§7> during the war with the Turks, a
small fortress was erected here, which is now
nearly rased from the ground. The ditch and
rampart show its boundaries, and the ruins are
* Pallas’s Travels, vol. iv. p.4., and Clarke’s Travels, p. 406.
The curious reader will find a fac-simile of the inscription on
the stone of Tmutarak&n in Karamzin’s History of Russia, at
the end of vol. vi.
cc 2
388
THE TCHERNOMOKSKII KOZAKS.
covered by luxuriant wild plants, especially Eryse-
mum Barbarea and Datura Stramonium.
Colonel Babayedof had placed sentinels over
our carriages, which we afterwards found to be a
common practice in the Caucasus, and of course
is a very useful one to travellers. Captain Kapus-
ta, who came to Taman along with the Kozaks
of the Black Sea, in 1797> acted as our guide,
and we presented Jiirn with a ten-rouble note at our
departure. He ordered one of his men to put
on the uniform which they wore when they had
the name of the Zaporogian Kozaks. He was
a little man, fifty-five years of age, and presented
himself with all the vivacity and fire of youth ; he
went through several evolutions, danced in the
manner of the gypsies, and sung a national song,
which was little more harmonious than that of the
Russians or the Tartars. His uniform was made in
the Polish manner, of excellent blue cloth, and trim¬
med with silver. The pantaloons were of the make
of those worn by the Kozaks of the present day;
the coat hung over his hips, and its arms were
wide and slit up, like those of the Georgians and
Persians. During his manoeuvres with a sabre they
were tied behind his back. In the evening, he
came to us again, when his shining jet-black waist¬
coat excited our particular notice. He told us that
it was prepared from foal’s-skin, which was pro¬
cured in the embryo state.
FOliCICS OF TAMAN. ■—CLASSIC GROUND. 88<J
The regiment of Colonel Babayedof consists of
eight companies, each of 180 men, making a total
of 1440, besides officers. Three companies are
stationed in the fortress of Phanagorii; two near
Anapa; one company at Bughas ; one at Teinruk ;
and one at Kopil. The Colonel has also about 500
Kozaks at his orders; so that, in all, he has nearly
2000 men under his command, for the protection
of the island of Taman and its vicinity.
Though the neighbourhood of the Cimmerian
Bosphorus be the most classic ground over which
we journeyed; and though its hills and valleys, its
sepulchral tombs and monuments, renew our asso¬
ciations with the earliest history of Greece, and
the proudest periods of Rome, yet I shall abstain
from all detail. Pallas, Mushin-Pushkin, Sestren-
evicz de Bolntjz, Cary, Clarke, Ileuilly, Castelnau,
&c. have fully treated of, and even represented,
every thing which is connected with this district,
the ancient kingdom of Pontus. It is evident,
from a perusal of their works, and from the re¬
marks of Mr. de Briicks, that the antiquities of both
sides of the Bosphorus are similar. The tumuli,
the sepulchres of ancient heroes, have been found
to be caverns, regularly and well constructed, and
penetrated by arched doors. One of these, near
Kertch, which displayed beautiful masonry, and an
elegant arch, was lately destroyed in the night. Mr.
de Briicks supposed that this was done by the
c c 3
TUMULI. — BUGHAS.
syo
Tartars, for the sake of the stones ; but the spirit
of destruction is much more characteristic of the
Russians than of the Krim Tartars, as we have
abundantly seen.
Agreeably to appointment, on the 28 th of May we
left the town of Taman, accompanied by Colonel
Babayedof, and after a short drive, by a good but
uninteresting road through plains scattered with
tumuli, we reached Bughas. At this place there is
a small semicircular bay, which forms part of the
liman, or embouchure, of the river Kuban, on
whose banks are erected a custom-house and a
quarantine, which greatly resemble stables. By
the straits of Bughas this bay communicates with
the Black Sea, and with Circassia. Along the oppo¬
site coast, Circassian fishermen have taken up their
residence, and find abundance offish in thegulph.
Others of the natives bring grain, as well as honey,
to Bughas, which they exchange with the Rus¬
sians and Kozaks for salt. We saw a few of those
who were engaged in this traffic, but they were not
permitted to land from their boat. Their ferocious
and barbarous appearance was well calculated to
inspire dislike and dread, and the rags, which
barely sufficed to cover them, indicated the last
degree of poverty and wretchedness.
Bughas is a small village, but being so near the
frontiers of Circassia, it is one of great importance ;
and, therefore, not only a band of theTchernomorskii
BUGHAS.-SENNA YA.
391
Kozaks, but likewise a company of infantry, is sta¬
tioned here. The narrowest part of the straits of
Bughas is only about half a mile in width ; and,
consequently, it is not difficult for such a predatory
and daring people as the Circassians to make a
descent in their light canoes, upon the Russian
territories. Formerly such an event was of frequent
recurrence, but since the Russian forces have been
increased, these mountaineers have chosen other
more advantageous spots for their incursions and
robberies, as we shall see hereafter. We could
not help being struck with the excellent policy of
the crown, in granting Taman to theTchernomorskii
Kozaks. It gave them a dangerous property,
which it became their personal interest to defend;
while they, a people then almost as savage as the
natives of Circassia, guarded the frontiers without
expense to the crown.
In the neighbourhood of Bughas is one of the
petroleum springs, so frequent in the isle of Taman,
and so amply described by Pallas. It yields but a
small quantity of petroleum. We dined at the
Captain’s house, and were liberally treated with
Don wine. A number of officers were present,
and greatly enjoyed a few glasses of Madeira, which
we had of our remaining stock from Moscow.
We arrived at Sennaya, the first regular post¬
station from Tainan; for so it is called, though we
saw nothing but a single wicker-work house, situ¬
ated upon an immense plain, and with the Sea of
cc 4
392
PEREPISKA. -DREARY DRIVE.
Azopli on one side. * We found that here were
placed nine horses, and three drivers, all tenants
of the same apartment. The rate of postage
was diminished to five kopeeks per horse per
verst; a sure proof that corn is not dear. Only
four fresh horses were at home; and we were afraid
we should have been obliged to await the return of
the other five, at this dreary abode. But, by per¬
suasion and drink-money, we succeeded in getting
the drivers to put a pair of horses to each carriage,
to assist those which we already had, and to con¬
tinue the journey.
Nothing can be conceived more dreary than the
drive to Perepfska, the next station. Extensive
plains, destitute of wood, but covered with the
most luxuriant weeds ; scarcely any pastures; and
few cattle, except near some small scattered vil¬
lages ; were the only objects of our regard. The
road lay through a morass, the water of which was
frequently up to the nave of the carriage wheels;
and, to increase the desolation of the scene, the
Sea of Azoph, agitated by a violent wind, roared
furiously on our left.
The soil must here be rich, as was proved by
the abundance of thistles, centauries, geraniums,
vetches, sorrels, wild chamomile, &c.; all of enor-
* The vignette at the head of the 16th chap, of Clarke’s
Travels gives an excellent idea of such huts, “ rudely con¬
structed of reeds and narrow flags.”
DREARY DRIVE.-DECEPTION.
393
mous size. The eye wanders over hundreds of
acres of these wild plants, as the carriage pursues
its course amid high reeds, which frequently ob¬
struct the view. Near Temruk, daylight began
to fail us, and the road became extremely bad. It
must be next to impossible to travel here in the
spring, or after heavy rains, even in summer, except
in Russian telegas. One can hardly conceive a
condition more forlorn, than that of the traveller
whose carriage should break down, or who, by any
accident, should be detained in the night amidst
these high reeds and unbounded marshes. The
few bridges we passed were extremely bad, and
the carriages were in danger of being broken. Just
before reaching the bridge which crosses the marsh
at Temruk, one of them stuck fast in the mud, and
was extricated with great difficulty.
Before we left Taman, Colonel Babayedof said
it was useless to give us letters of introduction, as
he had despatched a special messenger to prepare
quarters for us at Temruk. When we arrived, we
could get no intelligence of the special messenger,
or of the lodgings prepared, and were obliged to
put up with very indifferent accommodations in
the house of the smotritel. On sending to the
captain who had the command of a company here,
a guard was granted for the carriages ; a necessary
precaution in a country where they might so easily
be plundered, and the blame laid upon the Circas¬
sian mountaineers.
TEMRtJK. — ARRIVAL AT KURTCHANSKAYA.
Temruk is a large village, raised upon a gulph
of the Sea of Azoplt, with a white church in its
centre, which we had remarked as the only relief
to the eye during the preceding day’s drive. Under
the domination of the Turks there was always a
garrison of 2000 janissaries stationed here. Temruk
is fortified, and now forms part of the line of de¬
fence of the Kuban.
After quitting Temruk, we travelled over an
excellent road carried through a dead plain ; but,
before arriving at the next station, the scenery was
totally and most agreeably changed on the west
side of the Kuban. The Circassian mountains
rising behind an extensive green plain, and covered
with woods and scattered trees, had the most de¬
lightful effect upon the mind, after the dreary
morasses and steps we had been traversing.
On approaching the station which is called
Kurtchanskaya, or Andrievskoi Redoubt, a sentinel
standing upon a watch-tower, or observatory, called
a vishka, not a little surprised us. This appellation
does not admit of a translation. It simply means
elevation, or height, or lofty body, and was for¬
merly applied to the elevated summer quarters of
the Tsars of Russia, with the epithet of royal pre¬
ceding it. * Representations of a vishka are given
by Clarke and Porter, and one is also seen in the
vignette to this chapter. Their construction is
* Vide Karamzin’s Sotchindniya, vol. ix. p. 211.
VISHKA. —ANDRlivSKOI REDOUBT. 395
very simple: a board, or floor, about four or five
feet square, being formed, with a coarse, low rail
round it, is raised in the air to the height of thirty
or forty feet, by four * posts (or rather trees), one
at each corner. There is frequently no ladder, but
cross-bars between the trees on one side, by which
the sentinels ascend and descend. These watch-
towers are found at each of the stations, as well
as at every piquet; and their general accompani¬
ment, as is seen in the vignette of this chapter,
is an immense faggot on each side, which being
covered with hay, to keep them dry in bad weather,
resemble the trunks of decayed trees. It is kin¬
dled the moment an enemy is seen. It must be a
real penance to remain four hours in the air in
cold and bad weather; but the passive obedience
of the Kozaks astonished us. Our road lay close
by the vishkas, and we often passed them without
exciting a look or a motion from the sentinels,
who stood like statues with their backs toward us,
and their faces to Circassia, as if a horde of moun¬
tain depredators had been advancing.
Andrievskoi Redoubt is but a weak fortress. It
consists of a large square, enclosed by an earthen
rampart and a deep ditch, and contains barracks,
stables, and magazines. Here were stationed 105
Kozaks, besides officers, well armed with guns
and lances; but their whole artillery, is a single
* Dr. Clarke says three, but four are seen in his plate.
FORTRESSES. — PIQUETS.
390
piece, a two-pounder; of which the mountain
tribes of the Caucasus stand in great awe. Similar
fortresses are erected along the east side of the
Kuban, at the distance of eighteen, twenty, and
twenty-five versts from each other. Between them,
at the distance of every six or eight versts, we
found a vi.shka, with faggots, and small houses for
the residence of piquets, with their horses.
We made a present to the officer whom we
found at the station, He gave us a guard of
six Kozaks, three for each carriage, as no indi¬
vidual is allowed to travel here alone, even were
he willing. During the course of the next station,
the Kozak guard changed three times at the in¬
tervening piquets, but we scarcely perceived the
change, as the carriages never stopped. The sen¬
tinels on the visit kas gave warning of our approach ;
and by the time we reached the piquet, fresh
Kozaks mounted, were ready to take the place of
those who accompanied us.
From Temruk to Karakubanskaya the road lies
chiefly over a plain and marsh, covered by weeds,
long grass, and reeds. The Circassian moun¬
tains and the Kuban, with intervening fields and
woods, on the west, tend to cheer and amuse the
traveller. On the east, the eye wanders over un¬
bounded plains, and reposes upon the horizon.
The road in some places was excellent, in others
heavy; and in the marshes, the horses were up to
the girths in water. We, therefore, were by no
DESCENT OF THE CIRCASSIANS.
397
means astonished at the trite remark of a Kozak,
that “ few carriages pass this way” Medvedov-
skoye, a large village, with a painted church, tilled
with human beings, and surrounded by herds of
cattle, stands amid open fields. Few trees are
to be seen in its vicinity, and the birds, for want
of a loftier resting-place, warble their pleasing
notes from the tops of the mullens (Verhascum
thapsus). At each of the Kozak stations are kept
three troikas, or nine horses, and, almost every
where, we were instantly provided with them, and
found them excellent.
At Petrovskoye we ascended a vishka, from
whence a marsh full of reeds was pointed out to
us, in which nearly a thousand Circassians had
been drowned in the month of October, 1821.
Genera] Vlassof, having had intelligence that these
lawless banditti were about to make a descent,
made all preparations to give them a warm recep¬
tion. They crossed the Kuban, landed safely, and
advanced to a short distance, when a cannon was
fired as the signal of attack. In the meantime, all
the faggots along the line of the river were in a
blaze, and the cannon of the nearest fortresses
were also fired. The Circassians were thrown into a
dreadful panic and confusion. Their whole force
consisted of about 3500 men, of whom only
500 escaped by means of their canoes. About
2000 were killed, wounded, or taken prisoners,
besides those drowned, so that the defeat was sig-
398 KOPIL — TCHKKNOI-PROTOK. — KOPANSKAYA.
nal and complete. Notwithstanding this, not more
than five weeks before our arrival, a small body
of these bold marauders crossed the Kuban, and
carried off two men, their object being to ob¬
tain prisoners to exchange with the Russians. Co¬
lonel Babayedof however, informed us that the
“ affair of October” had given the Circassians a
very useful lesson ; as before it they were continu¬
ally making incursions, and doing great injury to
the Kozaks; stealing horses, cattle, men, women,
and children.
At Kopil we crossed the Tchernoi-Protok, or
the Black Protok, which had been better named
the Dirty Protok, for its water was exactly like
that of marl-pits. It is not a very broad river,
but it is very deep, and flows through a level
country, as already noticed, to the Sea of Azoph,
while the Kuban, from which it branches off, pro¬
ceeds to the Black Sea.* The carriages were placed
upon a ferry formed of two boats, joined by planks.
At Kopil the guard left us. When we were at
Mishatovskaya, we begged a guard, but the of¬
ficer told us it was unnecessary. As we calcu¬
lated that we should not reach Kopanskaya before
it was dark, we gave him a douceur , and our wish
was instantly gratified. We were detained upon
the road, and arrived, when it was excessively
dark, at a miserable station, where we were forced
* Vide p. 383. of this volume.
ARRIVAL AT YEKATERINODAR.
399
to pass the night. The apartment we entered
might well be called the black chamber, and it
swarmed with a variety of detestable insects, some
of them of great size. It was filled with sleeping
Kozaks, who were covered with shoobs, blankets,
and rags, and whose guns, pistols, sabres, and belts
were suspended around the walls. Neither a ta¬
ble nor a chair was to be found, and with difficulty
we got wood to cook our dinner, at ten o’clock
in the evening. Our repast was placed upon a
board, after partaking of which, we withdrew to
the carriages for a few hours’ repose.
We took no guard from hence, and departed at
an early hour, while it rained heavily. The wheels
of one of the carriages gave way, no doubt, in con¬
sequence of the injury it had previously sustained
in the drive through the marshes. We left our
servants and the coachmen to take charge of
it; and one of us driving the horses, we soon
reached Yekaterinodar in the calash. We went
directly to the house of Colonel Matveef, ataman
of the Tchernomorskii Kozaks, and delivered our
letters of introduction. The police-master, who
was with him at the time, immediately ordered us
a lodging, where we were very unwelcome guests.
Unable to buy a wheel, we sent horses and people
to give assistance in bringing forward the carriage.
By order of the ataman, a captain of engineers
set his men to make a new wheel, which they did
surprisingly well, and at a moderate price, by the
400 THE QUARANTINE.-A CIRCASSIAN PRINCE.
afternoon of the following day. Our stay here gave
us ample time to examine every thing connected
with Yekaterinodar.
Our first visit was to the quarantine, where we
found a number of Circassians exchanging a mea¬
sure of rye for a measure of salt. We made ar¬
rangements with the officers of the establishment
(after having received the approbation of the
ataman ) for seeing a Circassian prince and his
suite, as well as some of the common people, on
the following day. Our message to him would have
sounded very strangely in some princely ears. The
translator was desired to say, “ that four Italian and
British gentlemen having arrived at Yekaterinodar,
were anxious to have an interview with him, and
desired to make him sorpe trifling presents.” On
the following morning, precisely at the appointed
time, he arrived, and awaited us a quarter of an
hour, in consequence of a mistake. The prince,
named Pshi Malnnet Khadjemko; his two sons,
Sheret Luk, eight years of age, and Alantcherai,
seven years of age ; his mohla, or priest, Mahmet
Khatun ;-two of his mirzas , or nobles ; and about a
dozen of his suite, all in uniform and well-armed;
besides a number of boys, and many Circassians
on business, were assembled in the quarantine.
After the usual salutations, by means of our in¬
terpreter, we held some conversation with the
prince and the mohla ; and having explained the
objects of our curiosity, we begged they would ex-
A CIRCASSIAN PRINCE.
401
cuse our questions. The Prince Khadjemko is a tall,
well-proportioned man, of about forty years of age.
In his physiognomy there was no expression of
talents, but much of good humour. His compla¬
cent manners struck us forcibly. His cap was
cupola-formed, made of leather, and bordered with
black sheepskin. His upper garment, made like
the coats of the Kozak officers, was dark-coloured
and striped; and above it was a coat of chain
armour. This was covered with a sort of white
linen tunic. The arms were defended by steel
armour, silvered, and gilt, and otherwise orna¬
mented at the wrists; and below it was a sort of
sleeve, which reached the middle of the hand. His
blue pantaloons were embroidered with silver, and
bound at the knees by red leather garters ; and his
boots, formed of red and yellow leather, were ex¬
tremely long, sharp-pointed, and drawn close to
the leg and foot by laces. In his right hand he
held a Circassian whip, whose handle was short
and covered with leather, and which, instead of
having a. lash, terminated in a heart-shaped ex¬
pansion, red on one side, and yellow on the other.
Such an instrument is admirably calculated for mak¬
ing a noise against the horse’s sides. His bow and its
case, his quiver full of arrows, and his sabre, we
were allowed to examine ; but his pistols were in the
holsters of his saddle on the other side of the Kuban.*
* In Pallas’s Travels there is a good representation of a Cir¬
cassian equestrian whom the prince much resembled. The
VOL. I. D D
402 A CIRCASSIAN PRINCE. — HIS SUITE, &C.
The sabre was of Damascus workmanship, and very
beautiful; but its handle, formed of ivory, was so
beset by long and sharp projections, like teeth,
that we had to put on gloves before grasping it.
The prince’s sons were plainly dressed in the Cir¬
cassian style. The mohla wore a white turban,
a wide flowing scarlet robe, and yellow boots, and
was also armed with a sabre. The suite were mo¬
derately well dressed, and were all well armed.
As is usual, their guns were enclosed in goatskin
cases, with the hair outside, which had a very
primitive appearance. The Circassians who were
here for commercial purposes, for the most part
were very badly clothed, and all of them had a
wild and savage aspect.
We placed a Karassubazar red morocco skin,
and some papers of English needles, before the
prince; two pair of ornamented Tartar shoes,
$nd a pair of hand-balls, before his sons; a
ipenknife, some pencils, and a paper of needles,
before the mohla ; and a small yellow leathern
bag, before each of the followers; all of which
were cheerfully accepted. The needles and pen¬
cils, especially, seemed to afford great pleasure.
We next tossed a number of red leather straps and
reader may look at his 18th, 19th, and 20th plates, for other
illustrations of this people. In the 18th plate is an excellent
figure of a Circassian noble. Clarke has given a plate of a
Circassian prince, and a native of the common order. I never
saw any of the princes in the costume represented: I always
found them habited as in Pallas’s 18th plate.
MANOEUVRES OF THE CIRCASSIANS. 403
small pieces of silver into the air, when a general
scramble took place, the men showing as much
eagerness as the boys to share the spoil.
Our curiosity often excited laughter, but all our
questions were gratified by direct and civil answers.
At our request, the Prince strung his bow, and
shot off an arrow, During this action his appear¬
ance was extremely imposing. The arrow was
found by a Circassian boy, at a considerable dis¬
tance, and I have preserved it as a specimen of the
excellent workmanship of the natives.
During our long interview, we were not allowed
to approach within four or five feet of the party,
on account of the danger of the plague, which fre¬
quently reigns in Circassia.
Having bid us farewell, the Prince and suite
betook themselves to their canoes, which they
paddled across the river. To our surprise, in
a few minutes, the whole of the party, mounted
on horseback, issued from an enclosure on the
other side of the Kuban, The prince first ap¬
peared on a white steed, then the mohla upon
a dark grey horse, and they were followed by the
whole suite. The horses were remarkably fine,
and held their heads extremely high. This caval¬
cade paraded up and down upon the banks of the
river, the prince’s eldest son galloped backwards
and forwards, and all seemed busy with prepar¬
ations, the meaning of which we did not compre¬
hend. At length the prince and suite set off at full
DO 2
404 PRISON. — FORTRESS. — CATHEDRAL.
gallop on the plain by the river side, fired their
pistols in succession, exercised with their sabres,
and then formed a circle, and, having made a short
detour , they repeated the same manoeuvres. After
another gallop the whole party halted instanta¬
neously, came down to the beach, formed a line,
and, having called to the interpreter to bid us fare¬
well, they rode slowly off.
In our return from the quarantine, we looked
into the yard of the public prison, and saw a num¬
ber of miserable delinquents. The prison itself is
small, and the yard is surrounded by very high
sharp-pointed palisades, or rather trunks of trees,
and has a very disagreeable appearance.
From the prison we proceeded to the fortress,
an immense square court, included by a deep ditch
and an earthen rampart, like the other small re¬
doubts already spoken of. About twenty white¬
washed houses, one story high, arranged around
the square, form barracks, magazines, workshops
for carpenters, smiths, &c., besides a prison and an
hospital. In the centre of this fortress stands a
very large, clumsy, green roofed cathedral, with
five domes, besides the dome of the belfry. Its
interior is only remarkable as being unfinished, and
in having a pulpit-like projection in the screen,
placed over some shockingly disproportioned
composite columns, the shafts of which are twice
the length they should be. The public money is
kept within its walls, a custom which is common
in the Krimea, the Caucasus, and Georgia, (of
PRISONERS. — YEKATERXNODAR. 405
course among Christians and Mahomedans,) and
which is founded upon the belief that the sanctity
of the church will prevent the intrusions of even
the most abandoned persons into the public cof¬
fers ; but this idea, however powerful with many,
does not operate upon all, as we have already
seen in the instance mentioned at Kief.
At the prison of the fortress we saw twenty-two
Circassian prisoners, most of whom had been cap¬
tured in the affair already alluded to, in October,
1821. A number of them were extended before
the door, basking in the sun, while others were
huddled together upon mats in a miserable apart¬
ment, and presented a spectacle of great dejection
and wretchedness. They were well guarded by
the Russians and anxiously awaited an exchange
of prisoners. This is made on very disadvanta¬
geous terms for them, as two Russians are required
in exchange for one Circassian.
Yekaterinodar, or the Gift of Catherine , was
founded in the year 1792, by the Empress, who had
granted a portion of the Kuban to the Euxine
Kozaks, and who wished to commemorate the event
by the appellation of. this town. It is the capital of
the territories of the Tchernomorskii Kozaks, the
residence of their Ataman, and the seat of their
civil-military judicature and general administration.
This town stretches over an immense space. The
streets, many of them without houses, are all in
straight lines, extremely broad, and intersect one
d d 3
406
POPULATION. — THE ATAMAN.
another at right angles. None of them are paved,
and they are excessively dirty in wet weather j
then, indeed, they are nearly impassable on foot,
as was the case when we were there. The houses
are mostly mean in their appearance, but their
general gloom is relieved by the rich vegetation
of the trees and gardens which surround them.
The population of Yekaterinodar, if I be correctly
informed, does not exceed 3000 souls.
The Ataman of the Tchernomorskii Kozaks,
Colonel Matveef, is a plain, fat, little man, of few
words, and as few pretensions. He speaks only Rus¬
sian, and appears not to have seen much of polished
life. He was dressed in a blue jacket and blue
trowsers, and wore a grey lambskin cap; indeed his
small crosses alone distinguished him from a Ko¬
zak serjeant. He came here with his countrymen
in 1792, has been their Ataman during seven or
eight years, and ardently devotes his life to their
service. He deserves our warmest thanks for his
kindness in assisting us in all our arrangements.
The origin of the Kozaks has exercised the pens
of a number of ingenious writers. It is of little
importance to our present object, whether they
were originally a distinct people, or are of Polish
or Russian descent. The curious reader may be
referred to the works of Storch, Scherer, Sestrene-
vicz de Bohujz, Schekatof, Clarke, Vsevolojskii,
Castelnau, &c., in which he will find this subject
amply discussed. A few general remarks, how¬
ever, respecting this interesting people, and espe-
THE TCHERNOMORSKII KOZAKS. 407
dally respecting the Kozaks of the Black Sea, I
hope will not be found misplaced here.
The Kozaks have been divided into two great
families ; 1st, the Kozaks of the Don, from whom
originated different tribes, as those of the Volga,
of the Ural mountains, of Siberia, &c. 2d, The
Kozaks of the Ukraine, who gave birth to the
Zaporogliian Kozaks, now the Tchernomorskii
Kozaks, or the Kozaks of the Black Sea. This
warlike people have always been accustomed to
derive their name from their situation, as is evi¬
dent by the above statement. The word Zapo-
rojskiye, or Zaparoghian, comes from za, beyond,
and poroghi, cataracts, and was applied to those
Kozaks who dwelt beyond the cataracts of the
Dneper, where their setch, or government, was
established. They vowed celibacy, and devoted
their lives to the profession of arms. They were
a ferocious and lawless band of plunderers and
desperadoes. In their setch , deserters, vagabonds,
and rebels, found an asylum. They were long
the bulwark, however, of the Russian Territories
against the Tartars of the Krimea. They lived in
strict union with the Kozaks of the Ukraine, as
long as they were under the domination of Poland;
but after the union of the former to Russia, the un¬
principled Zaparoghian Kozaks who lived by pira¬
cy and fishing, sometimes fought for the Russians,
sometimes for the Turks, according as they were
best paid, or as it suited their own views, always
d d 4
408 THE TCHERNOMORSKII KOZAKS.
maintaining a degree of barbarous independence
on the frontier of two powerful nations. In the
year 177-5, the Empress Catherine II. alleging
that they were guilty of high treason, and that
their fidelity could not be trusted, ordered their
seich to be destroyed, their name to be annulled,
and they themselves to be driven to the district
of Bielgorod, where, abjuring celibacy, they be¬
came cultivators of the land, while their former
property was bestowed upon others. After the
declaration of war against Turkey, in 1787, many of
them wished to form regiments, while otherswho had
emigrated to the Turkish provinces, returned and
offered their services to Russia. Prince Potyem¬
kin formed the whole into a body, under the ap¬
pellation of “ FaitJifid Kozaks of the Black Sea,”
trusting that they would prove so in future. Per¬
haps the protection and pay offered them were the
grand causes of the fidelity which they afterwards
showed. They proved of great service during the
Turkish war, and eminently distinguished them¬
selves at the siege of Otchakof, and the capture
of Berizan. When peace was established, the
Empress, as a reward for their meritorious services,
granted them the country which they now possess,
and which had been lately conquered from the
Kuban Tartars. In 1792, they were transported
thither, founded their capital, and built different vil¬
lages, and they were charged with the defence of the
line of the Kuban along their own territory. They
THE TCHERNOMORSKII KOZAKS. 409
live chiefly by feeding cattle, by fishing, and by col¬
lecting salt from some small lakes in their country,
part of which they exchange, as already men¬
tioned, with the Circassians. They have their own
Ataman and government, and enjoy the same privi¬
leges as the Don Kozaks. Since they came to the
Kuban, they have proved faithful, and have main¬
tained their military character. Their condition
seems to have been considerably improved since
Clarke and Heber visited them. For the most
part, they appeared to be easy in their circum¬
stances ; and were as well dressed as any Kozaks
we found, remote from the great towns. Their
dress also is now the same as that of the other
Kozaks, blue jackets and trowsers, bound with
a girdle; and so are their arms. I am quite of
Dr. Clarke’s opinion, that “ The Tchernomorskii
are a brave, but rude and warlike people, possess¬
ing little refinement of civilised society, although
much inward goodness of heart,” and ready to
show their hospitality to strangers ; qualities, how¬
ever, which seem common to barbarous life. They
prevail among all the mountain-tribes of the Cau¬
casus, whom I have seen, or respecting whom I
have received trust-worthy accounts. From the
statement of the professor, that “ they do not re¬
semble the Kozaks of the Don, in habits, disposi¬
tion, or in any circumstances of external deport¬
ment,” I should beg leave to dissent. I could not
discover any very marked differences between
410
THE TCHERNOMORSKII KOZAKS.
these two classes of Kozaks. It is true, that the
very name of the Tchernomorskii Kozaks, at a
distance, inspired a secret dread ; but, from the
first moment we found ourselves among them, we
were quite at our ease. Their appearance and con¬
duct gained complete confidence, which was never
forfeited. I should think that the Tchernomorskii
Kozaks are similar, in many points, to the Kozaks
of the Don, an opinion which I found was adopted
by Castelnau. Like them, they also profess the
Greek religion. It is possible that they may have
considerably altered their habits within the last
twenty-four years, i. e. since Clarke’s visit. *
* The Roman Catholic metropolitan in Russia, Sestrenevicz
cle Bohujz, in his Histoire de la Tauride, vol. ii. p. 31., in a
sketch of the history of the Kozaks of the Black Sea, relates
that, “We cannot have more unquiet, factious neighbours,
nor worse soldiers. They are not changed. During peace, we
have seen them pillaging even the desert country of New
Russia, planted and become fertile by the wise administration
of Catherine II. The Marshal-General Count Rumantsof
Zadunaiskii equally celebrated for the excellency of his judg¬
ment, and his military exploits, and truly above all eulogy,
after having had the Zaporoghians under his orders in the war
of 1768-1774, declared that he had found them without sub¬
ordination, of an untractable temper, and only brave by the
lure of booty, or when they could not fly away.” The same
author also states, that “ if they should ever return to their
former robberies, they will be supported by the Circassians,
acknowledged the most expert thieves of our days.” In justice
to these Kozaks, it is but fair to mention that they have proved
faithful guardians of the frontiers, and determined enemies of the
Circassians.
THE TCHERNOSIORSKII KOZAKS.
411
The country of the Tchernomorskii, on the south,
stretches from the mouth of the river Laba to the
embouchure of the Kuban river in the Black Sea;
toward the north and east it is limited by the river
Yea, which separates it from the government of
Yekaterinoslaf and the country of the Kozaks of the
Don; on the west it is bounded by the Black Sea, the
Bosphorus, and the Sea of Azoph. Thus the extent
of their territory comprehends upwards of 1000
square miles. Though it is known by the name of
“ The Land of the Tchernomorskii Kozaks and
though, as we have seen, they have their own parti¬
cular administration, yet this country is under the
inspection of a Russian governor; and, no doubt, all
their motions are carefully watched by the Russian
officers, at the different stations along the line of
defence. Till lately, not only Taman, but the
whole of the land of these Kozaks, formed part of
the government of the Taurida or Krimea, and was
under the superintendence of the Due de Richelieu,
and of his successor, Count Langeron. But very
lately it has, more naturally, been made part of the
government of the Caucasus, and is under the care
of that bold and active chief, General Yermolofj
of whom we shall have occasion to speak in another
part of this work.
The number of Kozaks who took up their abode
in the Kuban, in 1792 , amounted, I believe, to about
15,000 males, and it seems to have been nearly
stationary for the last twenty years; being stated
412 DEPARTURE. — VILLAGES.-TUMULI.
at 14,500 in 1804, 1813, and 1818, by three Rus¬
sian writers, Stchekatof, Vsevolojskii, and Yab-
lovskii.
Since their abode here, they no longer are sworn
to lives of celibacy, and women and mothers are
seen among them; but they are few in number, and,
consequently, population makes no progress. They
have a fertile country, but it is little cultivated.
It is scattered with numerous villages, as may be
seen by inspecting a good map, and is by no means
so desolate as is generally imagined.
On the 1st of June we left Yekaterinodar, at two
o’clock in the morning, travelled the whole day,
without stopping, till the evening, when we reached
Timijbeskaya, where we dined. On the west, as
we passed along the high banks of the Kuban, the
day being cloudy, the mountains of Circassia were
completely veiled, and on the east, nothing but an
interminable plain, covered with long herbage, was
to be seen. The villages, Ust Labinskaya, La-
dojskaya, Tiphliskaya, Kazanskaya, Kavkaskaya,
and Timijbeskaya, are all similar to each other.
The road, for the most part, was level, and we re¬
marked numerous tumuli on both sides, some of
which, upon the banks of the river, served the sen¬
tinels in place of observatories, or vishkas, while
the interior arches were converted into stables.
If the hundreds of tumuli, in the steps beyond
Kief—indeed, throughout the south of Russia,—in
the Krimea, in the Kuban, and, according to the
TUMULI. — THE GREBENSKII KOZAKS. 413
reports of travellers, also in Wallachia and Molda¬
via, be all sepulchral tombs of the ancient inhabit¬
ants of these regions, they would argue a consider¬
able population in remote ages. But there is reason
to believe that many of them were elevated by the
different tribes of Tartars. Such tumuli are also
found, though sparingly, in the vicinity of Moscow;
and a number of years ago, when at Ostapyeva, (the
estate of Prince Yiasemskoi, one of the most dis¬
tinguished living poets of Russia,) only seventeen
miles from that capital, I well remember seeing
two of them, which that nobleman was of opinion
owed their origin to the Tartars.
We found good horses, and were attended with
a guard of three, four, or five Kozaks, who changed,
as on the preceding day, at the piquets, so that we
made rapid progress.
The defence of the line of the Caucasus, by the
Kozaks of the Black Sea, ends at Redutskoi Ka-
rantln, and is then committed to the Grebenskii
Kozaks, who are descendants of the Kozaks of the
Don, and who had taken refuge in Circassia, after a
revolt, and dwelt near a rugged rock, which re¬
sembled a comb, greben in Russian, from which
they got their name.
Among these Kozaks we found the same kind
of earthen fortresses, piquets, and vishkas, as among
their Tchernomorskii brethren ; but the latter were
much better constructed. Mounted in the air,
the guards resembled the Stylite Simeon, and
414 THE GREBENSKII KOZAKS.—UST LABINSKAYA.
showed the same indifference as a statue, when we
passed them at full gallop, —not even bestowing a
look upon us. Two carriages travelling this road
together is a rare sight; and as the Kozaks were
long warned of our approach from the towers,'
they had time to make all preparations for receiv¬
ing us ; and, most likely, they took us for military
officers, and wished to show great attention to their
duty by their immobility.
The fortress of Ust Labfnskaya is one of the
largest and most important along the Kuban; and
is constructed in a manner similar to that at Yeka-
terfnodar. Colonel von Behn, a German, informed
me, that he had sometimes two, three, four, six,
seven, or eight battalions of Russian infantry, be¬
sides a corps of 100 or 200 Kozaks, under his com¬
mand, and that they were all required, at times, to
keep their restless neighbours in awe, who crossed
the Kuban in their canoes during the night, and con¬
cealed themselves among the reeds in the marshes,
till they saw a fit opportunity of carrying offbooty,
or attacking travellers. He also told us, that of
late the danger upon this frontier had been greatly
diminished by the vigilance of the troops, and the
severe chastisement the mountaineers had received.
When we arrived at the fortresses of the Kozaks,
we were generally met by the commander, either on
foot or on horseback, who saluted us d la milltaire,
expressed his happiness at our safe arrival, and
hoped we should have a prosperous journey.
WILD PLANTS. — STAVROPOLE.
415
During this day’s drive, amid many wild plants,
it was impossible not to be struck with the profu¬
sion of the beautiful Fraxinella (Dictamnus albus),
and of Feather-grass (Stipa pennata).
On the 2d June we left our quarters at an early
hour, and passed through a monotonous country,
and gloomy villages, whose only ornament consisted
in their churches. There are three roads by which
we could have approached Stavropole; and the
one we chose, as being the shortest, led us to desert
the banks of the Kuban. We found that the in¬
terior of the country, being more remote from plun¬
derers, was covered with flocks and herds, that
there was a greater appearance of cultivation,
and that villages were numerous. Having passed
Novo-Troi'tskoye, the landscape became more va¬
ried, and soon presented hills and dales, scattered
with dwarf trees, especially oaks and maples. The
nearer we approached Stavropole, the more diversi¬
fied the scenery became; and, in making a detour to
enter it by a better road than the post took, we
passed a fine dell richly clothed with wood and
shrubbery,
Stavropole is the chief town of a district, built
upon the left bank of the Tashla, which runs into
the Kalauiis, and in a pleasant situation. The soil
around it is rich, and is remarked for its abundant
crops of hay. In the town are two or three good
streets, lined by stone and wooden houses. The
courts of justice, the police-office, some public ma-
416 ROGUERY OF POST-MASTERS.-NADEJDA.
gazines, a few candle and soap manufactories, and
tanneries, besides a couple of churches, and the
fortress, are the most remarkable edifices it con¬
tains. We were rather surprised at finding some
well stocked shops so far in the interior of the Cau¬
casus. The Don wine cost here Is. 3d. per bottle,
but it was of excellent quality.
Stavropole contains between 2000 and 3000 inha¬
bitants, consisting of Russians and Kozaks, besides
a few foreigners. It is remarkable for its healthy
climate.
From the time we entered the Krimea, till we
joined the great line of communication with Rus¬
sia, we had little cause to complain of delay,
of imposition in the fare, or of the post-masters,
but here we found that Russians again held these
stations. I augured, that at such a distance from
their own country, their habits might have changed;
but I was deceived. At Stavropole the smotri-
tel did all in his power to induce us to pass the
night under his roof. Horses were procured for
one of the equipages, and it set off) and gained the
next station. At length horses were likewise got
for the other carriage, and we proceeded on our
journey, but were overtaken by darkness, and
obliged to take up our quarters for the night at Na-
dejda, twelve versts distant. On joining our compa¬
nions next morning, we found that they had been
put to considerable inconvenience owing to their not
having had their podorojne, which remained with
BESHPAGHIR.-VIEWS,
417
us. Without this very important credential, nobody
would receive them into their house. The starost
was absent killing locusts, and it was with difficulty
that they at last persuaded an old man to give them
lodgings. At the late hour they arrived, it was
contrary to law to light fire or candles; and much
persuasion was necessary to induce the host to let
them so far infringe the law as to light a candle.
After a very early breakfast we left Beshpaghir
for Georgievsk, which we reached in the evening.
None of the post stations require any notice. The
road lay through monotonous scenery, but of a dif¬
ferent kind from what we had been accustomed to
for some time, for we continually ascended and de¬
scended hills nearly destitute of wood and covered
with long grass, like that of the steps, and passed
over immense tracts, on which little was to be seen
but thistles, bell-flowers, and wormwood, intermixed
with fine fields of corn and pastures.
After leaving Stavropole, but more especially on
the approach to Georgievsk, the views of the Besh-
tau, and the neighbouring mountains, which arise
from the bosom of an immense plain, are remark¬
ably pleasing. We had not yet beheld the range of
the Caucasus, the weather having been unfavour¬
able •, though, when clear, it is seen from Stavro¬
pole. The Circassian mountains we saw in our
course along the Kuban, were only of secondary
importance, and none of them covered with snow.
E E
VOL. 1.
4-18 ARRIVAL AT GEORGIEVSK.-SAITH SATOON.
We had considerable difficulty in finding a
lodging at Georgievsk; and the commandmant, to
whom we had sent to beg his interference, as the
gorodnitchii was not at home, returned an answer,
“ that it was not his department.” At length we
entered the house of a Russian, who showed us a
couple of rooms, in one of which was a handsome
well-dressed Persian, with a fine long black beard,
who not a little surprised us by addressing us in our
native tongue. We found that he was second dra¬
goman to his Royal Highness Abbas Mirza of
Persia, and had acted as guide to numbers of our
countrymen, while in that country, and, among the
rest, to Sir R. K. Porter, who judged him so good
a specimen of the Persians as to give his portrait a
place in his travels. Saith Satoon, for such is his
name, was educated at an English school at Bom¬
bay, and spent many years of his life in India,
chiefly among the English. We found him an
intelligent and pleasant man, who was loud in the
praises of Persia, of the King, and of Abbas Mirza,
and, perhaps, with good cause, for his country
was never ruled with such mildness and talent
combined, as at present. But, as we shall see here¬
after, it is to be feared, that a calm precedes a
dreadful storm. The Persian ambassador, who
was on his way to London, and whom Saith Satoon
was to accompany, had made a detour to the min¬
eral waters of the Caucasus, and was to be joined
by him at Stavropole.
MORTALITY OF GOVERNORS.-COUNT GORSKII. 419
The day had been windy ; and, although we had
arrived at the 3rd (15th N. S.) June, the thermom¬
eter sunk as low as 58° Fahrenheit.
On the following day, which was Sunday, we
made a visit to the civil vice-governor, there being
then no governor, a circumstance which did not
surprise us, since such an appointment must be
regarded as a punishment, in consequence of the
unhealthiness of the climate, and the prevalence of
most violent and inveterate intermittent fevers.
Madame Freyganch, in Letters from the Cauca¬
sus and Georgia, in 1812, informs us that her
uncle was the fifth governor of the Caucasus who
had died within the short space of eight years. If
correctly informed, a few more have also forfeited
their lives for the honour conferred upon them;
and Count Gorskii, apparently, was rapidly follow¬
ing them. He had had an intermittent fever for
three years, with only short intervals of health, or
rather of convalescence. For the last eleven
months he had never had an intermission of his
disease; sometimes the paroxysms returned every
day, and sometimes on alternate days, a form of
intermittent fever extremely common at Moscow,
and especially among the lower classes. He had
been attended by a number of medical men, indi¬
vidually, and in consultation, and had taken a great
variety of medicines, besides the Peruvian bark,
red and pale, in all forms,—powder, decoction,
and pills, &c. — without any effect. He was very
E E 2
420 FEVEKS.-DESCRIPTION OF GEORGIEVSK.
much reduced, and seemed about to fall into a
general dropsy, and most likely, ere this, has paid
the debt of nature.
The vicinity of Georgievsk must be healthy,
for Dr. Kimmel says, that intermittent fevers are
unknown at Stavropole, and that those attacked
with them are quickly cured when transported to
that town.
The plague sometimes rages also at Georgievsk,
to augment its disagremens.
Count Gorskii, notwithstanding his very diseased
state, wished to see us, and was extremely polite.
Though not able to be present himself, he invited
us to join his usual dinner party on Sunday, at
which we met all the authorities of the town. A
circumstance he mentioned excited considerable
interest. When he had been in the military ser¬
vice sixteen years, he fought a duel, and killed
his antagonist. He was reduced to the ranks,
served other sixteen years, and left the army with
the title (I believe Colonel) he had before the duel.
By the Russiau authors, Georgievsk is called a
fortified town, words which are apt to convey a
much more exalted idea of it, than it really de¬
serves. It is rather like a large village than a
town, and especially since the fire, which half-con¬
sumed it, in 1816.. It lies upon the north bank of
the Podkuma (or. the Little Kutna), at eight versts
from its junction with the (Great) Kuma, and at
the distance of 20944 versts from Moscow. Its
DESCRIPTION OF GEORGIEVSK.—SCOTCH COLONY. 421
fortress was constructed in the year 1771 > and in
1785 it became the chief place of a district, which
sometimes belonged to the government of Astra-
chan, and sometimes to that of the Caucasus. In
1802, it was made the government town of the Cau¬
casus, and the residence of the general-in-chief of
this district. General Yermolof, however, has now
fixed his head-quarters at Tiflis.
Georgievsk # is divided into three quarters, one
of which is the fortress of St. George, and is sur¬
rounded by low fortifications. The churches, the
arsenal, the barracks, the hospitals, the public ma¬
gazines of corn and salt, are the chief edifices in
this town, which is said to contain 500 houses,
and above 2000 inhabitants, and with a stanitza
or village of the Kozaks, at a short distance, about
3000. The military excepted, the greatest part
of the inhabitants are Kozaks of the Volga, inter¬
mixed with some Russians and Armenians, who
keep shops, in which we found abundant supplies
both of the necessaries and the luxuries of life.
On the 5th of June, we left Georgievsk, and ac¬
companied by a Kozak guard, which was changed
at the piquets, we reached the Scotch Colony, Ka-
rass, distant thirty-five versts. The road, which
lay chiefly in a valley, by the banks of the Pod-
kuma, and over plains by the foot of the moun¬
tains, is described by Pallas and Kimmel.
* Each g is sounded hard.
E E 3
CHAP. X
DESCRIPTION OF KARASS.—ITS MILITARY GUARD.—DISEASES.—
THE REV. MR. BRUNTON.-GOVERNMENT OF KARASS.-ITS
LANDS.—CULTURE.—POTATOES. — RELIGIOUS OPINIONS OF
ITS MAHOMEDAN NEIGHBOURS. — INTENDED BAPTISM OF AN
OSSETINIAN.— RANSOMED MOUNTAINEERS.—VISIT TO BESH-
TAU.—VIEW OF MOUNT CAUCASUS. — RETURN TO KARASS.
—RECEPTION BY MR. JACK.—KONSTANTINOGORSK.— GENE¬
RAL DESBOUT.-DEPARTURE.-THE PODKUMA. - KISLA-
VODSKII.-ACIDULOUS SPRINGS.— DELICACY OF THE RUS¬
SIANS.—MOUNT ELBORUS.—SPRINGS AT KONSTANTINOGORSK.
—BATHS.—THE MESTCHUCHA.-DESCRIPTION OF KONSTAN¬
TINOGORSK.-VISIT TO A CIRCASSIAN VILLAGE.—REPAST.
-A NOBLE WHIP-MAKER,-PRESENTS.- PROBABLE UTIL¬
ITY OF MR. JACK.— MOUNTAIN TRIBES.-THEIR ARTIFICE.
-MAHOMEDANISM.-FRIENDLY CIRCASSIANS. —MOUNTAIN¬
EERS IN THE RUSSIAN SERVICE.—RETURN TO GEORGIEVSK.-
DEPARTURE.- DELL NEAR PAVLOVSKAYA.—YEKATERIN-
OGRADo —PAVLODOLSKOYE. — AMUSING SCENE.—MOZDOK,
DESCRIPTION OF KARASS.
423
— POPULATION. — COMMERCE.— STREETS.— HOUSES. —DE¬
PARTURE.-THE TEREK.-REDOUBT OF ALEXANDER.— COM¬
POSITION OF A CARAVAN.— DEPARTURE.— BANISHMENT OF
THE TCHITCHENTSI_REDOUBT OF CONSTANTINE.—REDOUBT
OF ELIZABETH-VLADIKAVKAZ. — ITS FORTRESS.-SHOPS.
-DEPARTURE-BEAUTIFUL DEFILE.-M AKSIMKINA.—DE¬
FILE OF LARS.-LARS.-DEFILE OF DARIEL.
On reaching the village of Karass, after the usual
formalities, we were admitted through its wicker¬
work gate, by a Kozak guard. This Scotch
colony is agreeably situated on a gentle declivity,
about two miles distant fiom the foot of the Besh-
tau, or the Five-Mountains, and at the eastern ex¬
tremity of a fine forest. It consists of two wide
streets, which intersect each other at right angles.
Through the middle of the principal one of the
two flows a clear rivulet, which furnishes an abun¬
dant supply of water, at all seasons of the year.
The houses here, though chiefly constructed of
wood, had a mean appearance, but the gardens,
orchards, and cultivated fields, by which they and
the whole village were surrounded, produced a
cheerful effect, and argued that this establishment
was one of the abodes of industry. The most re¬
markable edifices were the minister’s small house,
the soldiers’ barracks, and the wicker-work stables
for the horses of a company of Kozaks. In the
middle of the village was a small guard-house,
with a sentinel parading between it and a loaded
piece of artillery, while an immense torch blazed
at his side. Upon enquiry why the cannon was
e e 4
424
MILITARY GUARD OF KARASS.
loaded and the torch lighted, we were informed,
that the predatory incursions of the Circassians
had of late been very frequent, and that they had
carried off considerable property from the village,
especially horses and cattle. The guard had been
strengthened, and a cannon planted there on
purpose to frighten the plunderers, who have a
most salutary dread of such formidable weapons.
The village has now been very quiet for some
months.*
Although it is not my intention to give a long
account of Karass, yet a few details may be men¬
tioned. I shall not hesitate to make some quota¬
tions from a small volume published by the Rev.
Mr. Glent, especially as that work is not likely
ever to have an extensive circulation, and as they
appear to me to be highly interesting.
* Mr. Glen thus expresses himself upon this subject. “ The
case of the sentinels is as follows : one of them stands at each
gate of the village, and, when travellers wish for admittance,
his duty is to give notice to a brother-sentinel at the guard¬
house, who must tell the captain, with whom it rests to admit,
or refuse admittance, according to circumstances. The police
above described, or some modification of it, is considered as
necessary for protecting the property of the inhabitants from
thieves and other banditti, the effects of whose depredations
they have often felt; and, as there is neither a wall nor a ditch
around it, but merely a wattled fence, the Russian guard will
not be accountable as they now are, for property stolen from
the village, unless they have the power of refusing admittance
to suspicious characters .”—Journal of a Tour , &c. p. 84.
f Journal of a Tour from Astrachan to Karass. Edinburgh,
1823.
DISEASES.-THE REV. MR. BRUNTON. 425
The greatest part of the original missionaries at
Karass, and their wives, were carried off by dysen¬
tery in the years 1804, 1805; but the climate is
generally healthy. The most prevalent disease, as
at Georgievsk, is the ague, which is often followed
by dropsy. Consumption is little known in the
colony or its vicinity. In the year 1804, the plague
committed dreadful ravages in the immediate
neighbourhood of the colony. “ It is a circum¬
stance,” says Mr. Glen, “ that will be long re¬
membered with gratitude by the missionaries, that
when surrounded by the plague, to which thou¬
sands of the natives became victims, not one of
their number fell. Sultan Katti-Gherri Krim-
Gherri, then under their care, was indeed seized by
it, but was mercifully preserved, and preserved,
I hope, to be a blessing to his countrymen.” *
We did not visit the burying-ground, which lies
about half a verst north of the village. It contains
the mortal remains of a number of Britons, males
and females, among whom the late Rev. Henry
Brunton was the most distinguished. In a con¬
versation with the deceased Dr. Rogerson, many
years ago, he told me, that if any man was calcu¬
lated to do good, as a missionary, it was assuredly
Mr. Brunton ; and, besides, he spoke of that gen¬
tleman’s talents with admiration. According to
* Journal of a Tour, &c. p. 55. ; and vide p. 237. of this
volume.
426
THE REV. MR. BRUNTON.
all accounts, the Doctor’s opinion was well-found¬
ed. Mr. Glen pays a tribute to his memory, and
states, that he was “ a man of a most vigorous un¬
derstanding ; well skilled in the sacred literature of
Europe ; extensively acquainted with the dogmas of
the Mahomedans, whose Coran he could read in the
original Arabic; endowed with a singular capacity for
acquiring a knowledge of dead and living languages;
of a shrewd, active, and enterprising turn of mind;
and, by consequence (as far as natural capacity, and
extensive erudition, are concerned), eminently
qualified for the work of a Christian missionary.
He died on the 27 th March, 1813, after having
finished the translation of the Tartar-Turkish New
Testament, now in circulation among Tartars, &c.
on both sides of the Russian lines,—a work that may
be considered as a kind of standard or model for
those who wish to write agreeably to the Turkish
grammar, yet in such a style as to be understood
by Tartars possessed of a moderate knowledge of
their own language.” * Mr. Glen, in alluding to
the failings of his brother-labourer, in the above
parenthesis, did well to let the veil remain un¬
touched ; for, it is ever to be regretted, that it was
the lot of a man of Brunton’s talents to have been,
as it were, expatriated, and secluded from society.
Perhaps consequent melancholy drove him to seek
relief in liberal potations, which may have accele¬
rated death.
* Journal of a Tour, &c. p. 52.
GOVERNMENT OF KARASS,-ITS LANDS, &C. 427
In all civil causes, the colony of Karass is “ go¬
verned by its own laws; but, in criminal cases, it
is subject to the general laws of the empire, or, to
speak more properly, to Russian courts of justice.
The chief court in the colony is the Missionary
Committee, in subordination to which is the unter
gericht, or under-court, which is composed of three
of the Germans.” The colony was, in a great mea¬
sure, composed of Germans ; but, according to Mr.
Glen, with the exception of a few families, they
have been ordered to leave the place, and to settle
elsewhere.* It is to be hoped, ere this measure is
carried into execution, that new settlers may have
arrived, so as to keep up and extend the cultiva¬
tion of the lands — a task, with a few good hands,
and a little money, of no difficulty.
In 1822, the population of the colony consisted
of only three Scotch families, including the mini¬
ster’s, and of between twenty and thirty German
families.
The quantity of arable land, lately measured off
for the colony by order of government, is 2500
desiatins, which, allowing three acres to a desiatin,
is upwards of 7000 acres, exclusive of nearly 1000
desiatins, overgrown with brush-wood, reeds, &c.
The soil of the lands of the colony, and neighbour¬
hood, is a rich black loam, which, when well cul¬
tivated, is remarkably productive in all kinds of
* Journal, Note, p. GO.
428 CULTURE AT KARASS.—POTATOES.
grain, though as the Germans find the culture of
tobacco, potatoes, &c. more profitable, the portion
of land appropriated to the raising of corn, is but
small. Great quantities of excellent cabbages are
also raised by the Germans, which, when taken to
the market at Georgievsk, or the village at the
spring of Konstantinogorsk, bring a high price,
being reckoned the best in the country.
From Mr. Glen, we learn, that till the Scotch
missionaries went to Karass, potatoes were scarcely
known on the Kuma, and are still considered as
a rarity.* He likewise adds, that he found that
valuable article better at this establishment than
any where else in Russia. Good potatoes, how¬
ever, are to be got both at Moscow andPetersburgh,
especially those raised by the German colonists,
and other foreigners, who understand not only how
to cultivate them, but likewise how to boil them.
In the last respect the Russians are extremely
ignorant, and they spoil good potatoes by allowing
them to boil very slowly, or to soak long in water.
The peasants have still a saying among them, that
“ potatoes are not an article of God’s giving, or
he would have given them to the Russians.” This
nonsense, however, is annually becoming less cre¬
dited, and the common people begin to consume
considerable quantities of this invaluable root.
A few citations from Mr. Glen’s book will illus-
* Journal of a Tour, &c. p. 25. and p. 56.
RELIGIOUS OPINIONS OF MAHOAIEDANS. 429
trate the opinions entertained by the tribes, by
which the Scotch colony is surrounded.
In an argument with the Carbardian chief of
a village, it was urged against Mr. Glen, that “ as
for the people in their quarter, God had given them
the Coran, which recommended good morals, and
condemned every kind of wickedness,” and there¬
fore, that it was foolish in the missionaries to
imagine that they should be able to turn any of
them to the Christian religion, except they suc¬
ceeded, in the first place, “ in converting their
mollas and effendis .” In continuing the argu¬
ment, the same chief admitted the fairness of the
professions of the missionaries in general terms;
but instead of listening to them, he kept them at
bay for a good part of an hour, by a pretty artful
use of the argumentum ad liominem , as if deter¬
mined to make reprisals for the use they had been
making of it among his brethren of the Mahome-
dan faith. “ Ye have a religion,” he said, “ which
ye tell us is better than any other, and ye profess
that, in making it known, ye do to others as ye
wish them to do to you. This has been your way
of talking from the first. Ye came here, and en¬
tertained us with fair speeches, till you got our
lands taken from us, and secured to yourselves.
Was this doing to others as ye could wish them to
do to you? Who, think you, can believe your
professions after having acted in this manner?”
The missionaries told him, that the lands had been
430 RELIGIOUS OPINIONS OF MAIIOMEDANS.
assigned to them by government, which had a right
to dispose of them; and as he must allow they
were much better with them for neighbours, than
with their own countrymen; not to speak of the
fact, that they had only a small part of the land
appropriated to their own use, the greater part of
it being in the hands of the Germans, while he
and others of his countrymen were permitted, at
times, to graze their cattle, cut hay. See., Sec.,
without charge. “ Neither Germans, nor any other
description of strangers,” he rejoined, “would have
ventured to settle in this wild region, unless you
had set them the example.”* On these points. I
shall leave the reader to judge who used the most
powerful arguments.
“ In a conversation with a Cabardian Uzden ,”
says Mr. Glen, “ we took occasion to point out to
him the superior excellence of the truths of the
Gospel, and recommended them to his attention;
but while he admitted the things were good and
salutary, he declared his resolution to hold by the
religion in which he had been educated; adding,
that Mr. Galloway and he were always good
friends, and never differed except on the subject
of religion, about which, he was sure they would
never agree, and therefore it was best for them
to avoid discussion, and to worship God each in
his own way.” t However different our ideas may
be on the subject, it is impossible not to admire
* Journal of a Tour, &c. p. 117. f Ibid, p. 105.
RELIGIOUS OPINIONS OF MAHOMEDANS. 4.‘fl
the liberality of such a doctrine, whether held
forth by Pagan, Mahomedan, or Christian.
In another place, says Mr. Glen, “ In conversing
with us, one of the Tartars, a mirza, (but in re¬
duced circumstances) took the lead, and acted as
chief speaker. After he had proceeded so far as
to explain himself distinctly, his opinion, like that
of the greater part of his countrymen, was, that
God had given to every people the religion most
suitable for them, and that each of them should
be satisfied with their own. He had been long
in the interior of Russia, and he had seen their
religion; he had been in Germany, France, and
other parts of Europe, where he had an opportu¬
nity of observing the forms of worship which
obtained in them ; and the impression left on his
mind, from a review of the whole, was, that the
the religion practised in each of these countries,
was good for its inhabitants. The religion of
Mohammed, as practised by his countrymen, was,
in like, manner, good for them ; and any alter¬
ation of their established forms improper, or, to
say the least, unnecessary. ”*
It is painful to read the following quotation.
The missionaries, “ finding to their no small grief
and astonishment, that not a few of the Mohammed¬
ans made it their business to ask for Testaments,
without the remotest intention of reading them,
* Journal of a Tour, &c. p. 182.
432 RELIGIOUS OPINIONS OF MAHOMED AN S.
and, so far as could be ascertained, for the sole
purpose of providing themselves, at an easy rate,
with covers for the Coran and other books, recom¬
mended by their teachers; while the sacred vo¬
lume, which they had promised to read, was de¬
stroyed, or thrown aside as waste paper ; they
altered their plan, and now they seldom give away
a copy of the Testament, till, by sounding the
petitioner respecting his views, or enquiring into
his character, they obtain some faint evidence
that he really intends to peruse it,—with a promise,
if the case seem to require it, that he will on no
account destroy the word of God.”*
I shall merely add another short citation, to
show the general impressions made upon the tribes
in the neighbourhod of Karass. “ The mission¬
aries,” say the natives, “ are very kind obliging
neighbours, but dangerous people, as they make
it their business to speak against the Prophet.”!
As the foregoing statements are calculated to
inspire gloom, as to the success of the efforts of the
missionaries, it is agreeable to find that great hopes
are entertained by them, of ultimately overcoming
all obstacles, and of obtaining many converts to
the Christian religion.
The missionaries, of late, have ransomed fewer
of the children of their demi-barbarous neigh¬
bours, than they were wont to do, because many
* Journal of a Tour, p. 158.
f Ibid, p. 155.
RANSOMED MOUNTAINEERS. 4SS
of them ran away, or were stolen, after the money
had been obtained. As the reader will see by and
by, however, the whole were not lost; and a few
of them have become converts to Christianity.
But it is time to return to the journey.
Finding that Mr. Jack, the resident minister,
was gone to some distant village, accompanied by
one of the missionaries, Mr. Galloway, to instruct
the Circassians, we called upon Mr. Paterson,
who is here for similar duties. Him we found in
a well laid out and thriving garden, amid bee¬
hives ; and I could have fancied myself in Scotland,
from the appearance of industry, and the Scotch
pronunciation of my countryman. One of the chief
objects of our visit was an affair of importance. An
Ossetinian servant-man, who belonged to Sultan
Katti-Gherri Krim-Gherri, and whom we had taken
with us from Sympheropole, had desired to be
baptised; and I had been requested to make all
the arrangements with the missionaries for the
ceremony, provided the man should be of the same
way of thinking when we reached Karass. It was
still his intention to become a Christian ; but some
recent orders of the Russian government prevented
this measure. It was no longer permitted to bap¬
tise converts from Islamism without giving previ¬
ous notice, and observing some new formalities.
Against this new order the missionaries intended
to petition the crown, as it seemed to them very
434
VISIT TO BESHTAU.
hurtful to the interests of Christianity. I have not
heard of the result.
The weather Avas remarkably fine; and, by mak¬
ing liberal presents to the Kozaks, we obtained the
given number of horses, and ascended the Beshtau,
one of the most celebrated mountains in this neigh¬
bourhood. The road lay through fine woods, and
afterwards entered a dell, the ascent through which
was difficult. Here we left the horses in charge of
some of the Kozaks who had accompanied us, and
taking guns in our hands, we ascended the hill on
foot witli our guide. The height of this mountain
is reckoned about 3000 feet, and it occupied us
two hours, from the time we entered the dell just
mentioned, to reach its summit. To about half its
height, the Beshtau is adorned with woods, and
higher up, the yellow azalea {Azalea Pontica )
in full bloom, contrasted its fine colours with
those of a profusion of the purple Anemone (Ane-
nome Narcissiflora .)
We had seen Mount Caucasus, “ the cradle of
the human race,” before reaching Georgievsk, with
mingled feelings of surprise and reverence; but
the majestic scene which instantaneously burst on
the view on gaining the top of the mountain,—the
weather being clear, and the sky of cerulean blue,
—filled the mind with the deepest awe and admir¬
ation. The whole chain of snow-capped mountains
between the Euxine and the Palus Masotis, raising
VIEW OF MOUNT CAUCASUS. 435
their venerable heads to the clouds, and reflecting
the rays of the sun with all the colours of the rain¬
bow, was one of those sights which lead us to
“ look through Nature up to Nature’s God,” and to
meditate on the attributes of Him, who said, “ Let
there be light, and there was light.” Below us,
stretched out as on a map, were the Great and
Little Kabarda and Abaza; the other four hills
which, with thatwe stood on, compose the Beshtau*;
Konstantinogorsk; and the Podkuma flowing from
among the mountains near Kislavodskii. Turning
to the north, the Scotch colony; a number of sepa¬
rate mountains, all of which have different ap¬
pellations ; the aids, or wicker-work villages of
Circassians and Nogay Tartars; with Georgievsk
and Stavropole in the distance; are the objects
which attract notice. We sat down on the moun¬
tain-top, and at our ease contemplated one of
the grandest views in Europe.t
* This word signifies The Five Mountains, and is derived
from the Tartar or the Circassian language, in which Besh sig¬
nifies five, and Tau a mountain. It is the same in Greek,
under Pentopolis ; in Sclavonic under Piatiborti , and in Circas¬
sian under Ocli hi-tJck'ou. Hence, it is not uncommon to hear of
the country of the Five Mountains. Vide Histoire de la Tauride y
vol. ii. p. 20, and Klaproth, vol. i. p. 251.
f A friend who has travelled a great deal, and to whom I
had shown this part of the MSS., makes the following remark :
“ I do not think this is quite correct. There are innumerable
views in Switzerland and in Norway infinitely grander.” I
have never been in Switzerland, and have seen but little of
Norway; and as it is natural for us to judge by comparison, I
F F 2
436 RETURN TO KARASS.—KONSTANTINOGORSK.
We descended the mountain, and rapidly re¬
turned to Karass, where we found Mr. Jack ready
to receive us into his house, in the most hospitable
manner ; and I was not a little pleased at the op¬
portunity I had of joining the private family de¬
votions of a Scotch clergyman so remote from our
country. A maid-servant, who talked “ broad
Scotch,” attracted our notice; but what was our
surprise on being informed that she was one of the
children of the Circassians, who had been bought
from her parents, educated in the colony, stead¬
ily followed its fortunes, and was now a sincere
Christian. John Abercrombie, another of these
converts, and a ransomed Circassian, called upon
me at Moscow in 1822, and I took him for a
Scotchman. I was about to present a glass of wine
to him, when the gentleman whom he accompanied
said, “ John is my servant. Sir.”
On the 6th June we arrived, at an early hour,
at Konstantinogorsk, and sent our cards to General
Desbout, who gave us a very kind reception. We
found him an intelligent and interesting man. He
came to Russia when he was only seven years of
age, and has passed the last ten years of his life in
the vicinity of the Caucasus, and has occupied his
leisure hours in composing an interesting Russian
work, which he allowed us to examine, and which
wrote agreeably to the dictates of my sensations and belief.
My friend admits, however, that it is a most imposing view.
DEPARTURE.
THE PODKUMA.
43?
bears the following title: “ An Account of the
Line of the Caucasus, and of’the Forces of the
Kozaks of the Black Sea; or, General Observations
respecting the Colonised Regiments which guard
the neighbouring Mountain Tribes.” He informed
us, that every Thursday there was a regular guard
provided, to accompany invalids, or visitors, from
Konstantinogorsk to Kislavodskii; but he was so
obliging as to order a special guard of six Kozaks,
with whom we departed. During the first twenty
versts we changed our guard three times. The
road had hitherto led through a plain, frequently
by the banks of the Podkuma; but, as we were soon
to enter the defile of the mountains, where there
was more danger of attack, the under-officer com¬
manding a small redoubt wished to send ten soldiers
with us. This we refused, as we should have been
detained by walking at the rate the soldiers chose,
but, by intreaty, we got our Kozaks augmented to
eight in number. The preceding night had been
very sultry, and the morning oppressively warm,
and we were overtaken by a violent storm of wind
and rain, after a good deal of thunder. We were
shown a cavern in the calcareous rock, in which
twenty Circassians had lately been destroyed by
suffocation, in consequence of having kindled a
fire, shut up the aperture, and gone to sleep.
After winding among high mountains, some of
which were bleak and sterile, while others were
covered with wood, and passing some paltry
4-38
THE PODKUMA. — KISLAVODSKII.
streams, it was necessary to ford the Podkuma,
which we found flowing with great rapidity. The
Kozaks having preceded us, and sounded the bot¬
tom with their lances, we passed in the carriage.
The water reached above the horses’ girths, and
there was considerable danger of being carried
away by the force of the stream. As the Pod¬
kuma frequently changes its course, it is necessary
to examine before entering it, for it becomes so
thick and turbulent that the bottom is not seen.
.By the banks of the rivulet Narzana we reached
Kislavodskii, and ascended to the fortress, where the
commandant offered us two low filthy apartments,
from which we were glad to escape. It being
yet too early in the season, the Kalmuck Tartars
had not arrived to pitch their kiUtlcas *, or portable
felt-covered tents, upon the surrounding hills.
A merchant of Astrachan had caused eight
wooden houses, each weighing 2000 poods, to be
transported from thence, and erected here, on spe¬
culation. All of them were unfurnished, but still
they proved a great accommodation to strangers.
In one of these we took up our abode for the night.
Kislavodskii is beyond the line of the Russian
dominions, but the Russians have taken entire pos¬
session of the neighbouring districts, for the sake
* A kibitka being the name of a very common equipage , in
Russia, I could not think of a tent , when I first heard its appli¬
cation in that sense.
KISLAv6dSKII.-ACIDULOUS SPRINGS. 439
of the mineral waters, and have erected a small
shabby redoubt, like those on the line of the Kuban,
on an elevated situation, to protect visitors against
the incursions of the Circassians, Abazians, and other
mountain tribes. The neighbouring country has been
pronounced “one of thefinest in the world*,” but we
found Kislavodskii a bleak barren spot, surrounded
by hills and mountains of various forms, but very
unproductive, and almost bare of wood. In fine
warm evenings, when the place is crowded with com¬
pany, and the valley resounds with mirth and music,
it may have a different aspect; but it was one of the
gloomiest places in the world during our short stay.
The acidulous springs which flow from the neigh¬
bouring hills have been long known, and held in
repute, by the natives, who call them Nar-Zdna,
or the drink of heroes, and by the Tartars, who
name them Atchi-Su, or acidulated water. They
have been examined byLovitz, Pallas, and Sucharefj
and, if I mistake not, also by Guldenstaedt and
Gmelm. More lately they were described by Dr.
Haas, of Moscow, in a quarto volume; a work
which may be recommended to those who want to
know the minutest details respecting the different
springs, as well as the diseases for which they are
in use, the nature of the climate, &c. t They are
strongly impregnated with carbonic acid gas, and
* Letters from the Caucasus and Georgia, &c.
f Ma Yisite aux Eaux d’Alexandre, en 1809 et 1810.
Moscou.
F F 4
440
DELICACY OF THE RUSSIANS.
they have been recommended in the same diseases
for which the waters of Seltzer, of Egra, and Altwas-
ser are used. Pallas bestowed upon them the appella¬
tion of Waters of.Alexander, which is still retained.
They are frequented by eighty or a hundred indivi¬
duals annually, and are likely to be much used, if
the plans of General Yermolof be adopted. It is
said that this officer wishes to expend 200,000 or
300,000, roubles in arranging the baths at Konstan-
tmogorsk and Kislavodskii in an elegant manner, in
building houses for visitors, and in procuring every
other convenience.
The springs have often changed their course,
and even been interrupted by the wanton mischief
of the natives. There is a basin, about twelve feet
in length, and six or eight in breadth, regularly
formed, through which fine fountains throw up their
waters, foaming and sparkling like champagne.
The temperature of these waters is between 55°
and 57° of Fall. Their chemical composition,
according to the latest analysis, is detailed to
tediousness by Dr. Haas, whose work may be
called a panegyric rather than an impartial history.*
The baths for ladies and gentlemen were in a
wretched condition, close to each other, and only
inclosed by basket-work. The following account
of them, given by Dr. Kimmel, in 1812, is amus-
* For an account of the rocks and plants at Kislavodskii the
reader may consult Pallas.
MOUNT ELBORUS.
Ul
ing, gives an excellent idea of the delicacy
of the Russians who then frequented them,
and forms one of the best illustrations of Rus¬
sian character which ever issued from the na¬
tive press. He says, “ A quelques pas de la
source, il y a un grand trou dans la terre, par lequel
Peau passe. Autour de cet endroit on a fait une
enciente de paille et de roseaux, et c’est la qu’on
prend les bains froids. Les annees precedentes, et
raeme au commencement de la saison actuelle, les
dames etoient obligees, d’y aller aussi bien que les
messieurs ; car il n’y avoit pas d’autre bain, aussi
eut-il beaucoup de desagremens, les uns et les
autres devant s’attendre mutuellement. Pour ob-
vier a cette incommodite. Monsieur le Senateur
Obreskoff a fait arranger a cote un bain pour les
dames. Il est etabli sous un aid Tartare et par
consequent beaucoup mieux guarde que celui des
homines.*”
On the 7th (19th N. S.) of June, at six o’clock
in the morning, the thermometer sunk to 50° of Fall,
an extraordinary low temperature for the time of
year in this climate.
The Elborus,t the loftiest mountain of the Cau-
* Lettres ecrites dans un Voyage de Moscou au Caucase,
p. 124. Moscou, 1812.
f The Elborus, Elburus, Elbruz, Elburz, or Alburz, is some¬
times called by the natives the Shat , or Shack- Gora ; but, ac¬
cording to Pallas, the Circassians call it Osha Masha a, or the
Happy Mountain; and the Akases, Orfi Ipgub, Mr. Glen
Scotchifies it into Alburrovvs. Journal , p. 37.
442
SPRINGS AT KONSTANTINOGORSK.
casus, and one of the highest on the globe, was
alternately seen insulated, and showing two conical
summits, one much higher than the other, and
obscured by passing clouds. According to Pallas,
this mountain yields in nothing to Mont Blanc, in
Switzerland. It was measured, some years ago, by
Colonel Boutsovskii, who estimated its height at
16,700 Parisian, or 17,785 English feet, above the
level of the sea. If this statement be correct?
mount Elborus exceeds mount Blanc (which is only
15,630) in height more than 2000 feet.*
We returned by the same road to Ivonstantino-
gorsk, and breakfasted with General Desbout, and
then proceeded to examine the celebrated warm
sulphureous springs, which form the Aix-la-chapelle
of the Russian dominions, and have their source in
the hill called Mestchucha. In our way thither,
our attention was arrested by a fair, or sale of
horses, at which we found Kalmucks, Tartars, Cir¬
cassians, Georgians, and Russians, assembled. We
saw none of the beautiful animals which we had
expected to have found here. Indeed it was rather
a sale of carriage horses, and is held weekly during
summer to supply the visitors and invalids of Kon-
* Vide Lettres sur le Caucase et la Georgie, &c. 23 ; or, the
English Translation of this work, which was lately published in
a very elegant manner, and by an individual who was compe¬
tent for the task she undertook. The additional plates, and the
notes of the translator, give additional value to the volume.
The original work is written in a lively romantic style, but often
fails in conveying the requisite or the most accurate information.
BATHS.
443
stantfnogdrsk with these animals for their carriages.
The Kalmucks had just arrived, according to their
annual custom, with their kibitkas , or covered felt
tents, which they were busily occupied in pitching
upon the plain, in order to let them at a fixed price,
by the week, month, or season, there being a great
want of accommodation for strangers.
Over the hot springs, a small edifice, with co¬
lumns, has been lately erected, and has a handsome
appearance. It is well represented by the vignette
of this chapter. The interior apartments are ele¬
gantly fitted up ; and the baths are large and very
neatly cut out of the solid rock. Their temperature
being 106° of Fah. they felt excessively hot. It re¬
quired ten minutes before I fairly entered the bath
to the chin, having been obliged to proceed in the
slowest manner, and it was impossible to remain
there long. One of our party could not enter the
bath at all, the heat being to him quite insupporta¬
ble. The rooms were filled with strong sulphureous
vapours, and a pipe conveyed cold water, so as to
enable every bather to use any temperature he
pleased, or that was prescribed by the resident phy¬
sician ; or rather, I ought to say, the physician
who is appointed by the crown to reside at the mi¬
neral waters of Konstantinogorsk and Kislavodskii.
After leaving the bath, we examined another
spring which flowed into an open basin covered
by a deposit of sulphur, and whose temperature
was 112° Fah.
444 THE MEOTRHUKA-KONSTANT1NOGORSK.
In ascending the Mestchucha, we saw an im¬
mense fissure, and different caverns, in the rock,
from which issued abundance of sulphureous va-
pours. Higher up this hill we remarked another
fountain, which was somewhat warm, in a state of
effervescence, and slightly acidulous; and, what
was more remarkable, at a short distance from it,
we found a sulphureous and acidulous cold spring.
Consequently the Mestchucha contains mineral
fountains in its bosom, by the mixture of which
any temperature can be employed either for drink¬
ing or bathing.
Konstantmogorsk forms one of the redoubts of
the Caucasian line, and includes wooden and
earthen barracks, and some small houses for the com¬
manding officers. It is surrounded by a ditch, and
a dozen of cannon defend its ramparts. At a short
distance is, the sloboda, or suburb, which contains a
number of paltry wooden and clay-covered houses,
of a very mean appearance, excepting three or
four, and the newly-erected habitation of General
Yermolof, who means to improve this watering-
place, and to encourage it by his presence annu¬
ally, during a short time in summer. Most of the
houses consist only of two apartments, belong to
soldiers who have returned from the service, and
are let at a high price. We entered some small
shops, which were well stocked with provisions and
luxuries, which were very dear. The Don wine,
red and white, was much drank during the heat
VISIT TO A CIRCASSIAN VILLAGE.
445
of the day, by the numerous visitors; but they
generally bring stores with them from Moscow, or
from some one of the government towns. They are
supplied with cheese, butter, chickens, hens, eggs,
lamb, veal, vegetables, and fruit, by the Scotch
colony. In some of the shops, the arms of the
mountain tribes of the Caucasus are sold, as,
poniards, (called lcingjal), knives, sabres, guns,
pistols, and even complete dresses and uniforms.
The number of invalids sometimes amounts to
200, or even 300, during a season.
Mr. Jack had come along with some friendly
Circassians on purpose to join us at Konstantino-
gorsk, and to conduct us to their houses. After
a drive of about four versts, we reached their village
at the foot of Beshtau. It was inclosed by a paling
of basket-work, which, after alighting, we entered
by a wicket. A number of women, miserably
dressed, made their escape, but the children, al¬
most in a state of nudity, remained for a few mi¬
nutes to gaze at us. One black-eyed girl, of a
very dark complexion, with a few tattered clothes
on her, and with a naked child in her arms, re¬
minded us of the savages of America and India.
The Uzdeen, or noble, who was well-dressed and
very clean, conducted us past a number of wicker¬
work clay-plastered houses, one of which had been
blown down the preceding night, an occurrence
which is very common, and which is greatly faci-
440
CIRCASSIAN REPAST.
litateil by the lightness of the materials of which
they consist, and by each standing separate from
the others. Our host’s wife had retreated to her
own apartment, and no persuasion could induce
him to present us to her. We saw and conversed,
however, through Mr. Jack, with his mother, an
old woman, who had a dignified deportment. We
were shown into a small room, with the fire-place
on one side, and a very low sofa, with cushions,
on the other, the wall being hung, not with ta¬
pestry, but with woven straw, and covered with
Circassian fire arms, swords, and poniards. This
noble wished to kill a sheep for our entertainment,
but as we refused to await its preparation, a small
low round table, without table-cloth, knives, forks,
or plates, was covered by millet boiled in milk,
like pieces of pudding. In the centre was placed
a wooden dish, containing pieces of new cheese,
like curd, which had been toasted with butter
and honey. At another table, his children, and
some other girls, partook of the same fare, which
they helped themselves to with their hands. They
were all dressed in gaudy colours, and walked in
high pattens. They were very fine girls, and most
of them had beautiful features.
We gave our host, Soliman Abazkoief, a ten-
rouble note, under the name of his eldest daughter.
Another Uzdeen or noble, Shora, who had also
joined us at Konstantfnogorsk, and accompanied
A NOBLE WHIP-MAKER.
PRESENTS. 447
us to the village, employs himself as a whip-maker,
and from him we bought a number of Circassian
whips, for four, ten, and, even fifteen roubles;
those at the last price having a small dagger in the
handle. All of them were remarkably well made.
As we proceeded to Karass, we could not help
being amused at the component parts of our party.
A Scotch priest, mounted as among his native
hills, and a Circassian noble and whip-maker, on
his beautiful steed, rode side by side, or tried
the speed of their horses against one another, as
we were whirled along by the Russian isvostchiks,
who sung with great animation. In the evening,
Soliman, and another noble, a Nogay mirza, or
prince, whose village was in an uproar, and who
had been to complain to the military authorities at
Konstantinogorsk, made us a visit, and were
highly pleased with the presents we made them
of English razors, as was also our faithful at¬
tendant Shora. The latter we found to be a clever
intelligent man, who both spoke and wrote Rus¬
sian very well; his occupation proclaimed that
he was not rich, but yet he had a noble mind,
and perhaps only awaits an opportunity to distin¬
guish himself. Mr. Jack having informed us, that
he had been at different times on the point of
becoming a convert to the Christian religion, and
once had consented to be baptised, and then
relapsed into his Mahomedan ideas and opinions,
448 UTILITY OF MR. JACK.-MOUNTAIN TRIBES.
I entered into a long conversation with him, and
was equally surprised at his knowledge and his
powerful mode of reasoning.*
Although the Scotch colony had not as yet been
attended with all the success which was to be
wished, Mr. Jack was in great hopes of being ulti¬
mately successful in the object of his mission. He
was upon excellent terms, as we had opportunities
of witnessing, both with the chiefs of the Nogay
Tartars, and those of the Circassians. Having-
gained their confidence and esteem, he is likely to
become useful; and then, though only established
for about two years at Karass, he had succeeded
in obtaining a hearing from the natives, who had
also submitted to be catechised.
All the mountain tribes of the Caucasus seem to
have some affinities, and to wish to continue the
mode of life of their ancestors. Little given to
agriculture, they support themselves by hunting,
robbing, and feeding cattle. They lie in ambush
and at once seize their prey, or make an attack upon
small parties, when sure of victory. They carry
off men, women, children, cattle, provisions, and
indeed every moveable that falls in their way.
Their great object is to take prisoners of high
rank, for whom they obtain a large ransom, and
* Shdra is spoken of by Mr. Glen, (p. 84). He appeared
to be very cunning, and perhaps he reaps some advantages from
his attachment to the missionaries.
ARTIFICE. — MAHOMEDANISM. ti9
they treat them severely, and even cruelly, in order
that they may give an account of their afflictions
to their friends by letters, which are sure to be for¬
warded. As the ransome depends upon the lives
of their prisoners, they are peculiarly careful to
preserve them. Since the Russians have acquired
Georgia, the mountaineers have made many pri¬
soners, and obtained great ransomes; but of late
the guards of the mountain passes have been
strengthened, and a severe, nay, even barbarous,
policy has been pursued, which has gieatly inti¬
midated the Circassian highlanders. The Rus¬
sians were formerly in the habit of sending pieda-
tory bands of the Kozaks among the mountaineers,
in order to retaliate for their incursions, and they
were successful in their object; but, unfortunately
for them at times, they introduced the plague
among themselves, a disease which often rages
among the mountains, and against which no means
are employed; the natives,like the Tartars, and tiue
disciples of Mahomed, having the strongest belief
in fatalism. They have great advantages over
their enemies, for, when they wish it, they retreat
to their rocky and inaccessible fastnesses, and guard
their defiles. The Christian religion, which was
formerly taught among the primitive mountains of
the Caucasus, is now almost entirely unknown,
the natives having become either Mahomedans
or idolaters. It is true, a few of the Ossetu
VOL. i.
G G
450
FRIENDLY CIRCASSIANS.
nians at Kazbek, and its vicinity, profess Chris¬
tianity, but they are deficient in the knowledge of
its principles.
A number of Circassian families, who dwell on
the north side of the Caucasian line of defence,
and are called Friendly Circassians , though not real
subjects of Russia, yet may be regarded, in a con¬
siderable degree, as sulyects to that power. They
preserve their ancient habits and manners, and
mode of living, but they dare not pass the line with¬
out permission from the Russian government, nor
visit any town after having obtained it, without
subjection to the quarantine. The Circassian
priests, and even the peasants, like the Krimean
Tartars, frequently make pilgrimages to Mecca,
and thus introduce the plague, which produces the
greatest consternation, and has tended greatly to
depopulate the Caucasus. The Nogay Tartars,
who live on the north of the line of the Caucasus,
are subject to the same formalities as the Friendly
Circassians. Neither of those tribes dare rob or
steal openly, but it is suspected that they sometimes
do so clandestinely, and also that they maintain a
correspondence with their brethren on the other
side of the line, and furnish them with information
which guides some of their predatory incursions.
The Russians have used all possible efforts, by
force and flattery, to tame those fierce and valiant
barbarians, who, with some reason, regard them as
intruders upon their territories, and have sworn to
■MOUNTAINEERS IN THE RUSSIAN SERVICE. 4 51
accept of no conditions, and to make no terms of
peace, until they evacuate their defiles. ICimmel
tells us, that in 1812, he knew Ivabardian princes
who w r ere in the Russian service, one of whom had
the rank of a Colonel, the other that of a Major,
and we heard of a Circassian noble who held a
rank in that army, when at Konstantinogorsk.*
The government among most of the mountain
tribes is feudal; and the natives are divided into
three classes, the princes, the nobles, and the
peasants, besides the priests. The nobles have
slaves, who descend to them by inheritance, but
whom they dare not sell. The peasants work for
the nobles, and take care of their cattle. The
nobles contribute to the support of their princes by
furnishing them with horses and cattle.
Pallas and Klaproth have given interesting ac¬
counts of the Circassians; and Dr. Clarke has also
treated of them at some length, so that I shall at
present refer the reader, lor details, to these authors.
We bade Mr. Jack and the other members of
* Some of the Osseti'nians, and also of the Tchitchentsi, are
likewise officers in the Russian service. Mr. Glen, in one of
his visits in the neighbourhood of Karass, speaks of a Sultan
who acted as pristqfi or a kind of civil officer, among the Tar¬
tars, and who had the title and pay of a Russian general; he had
been at Petersburgh in his youth, where he had access to good
company ; he was a shrewd man, and apparently of an inquisi¬
tive turn of mind, and his knowledge of the politics of Europe
was considerable. Journal , p. 143.; and p. 490. of this volume.
G G 2
452
DELL NEAR PAVLOVSKAYA,
the Scotch colony, adieu, and returned to Geor¬
gievsk, where we made but a short stay.
On the 9th June we left Georgievsk, about half
past six in the morning; and, after a rapid drive
of 115 versts over level, dry, and excellent roads,
we reached Mozdok at half past four o'clock in the
afternoon, though we had been detained at one of
the stations till the horses were brought from the
fields. To prevent this occurrence a second time,
we gave the uriadnik , or under-officer, at each of*
the stations, as well as the Kozak guards, liberally
for drink-money, and employed one of the latter
as an avant-courier, who preceded us with the po -
dorojne , and got the horses ready by the time of
our arrival. One of the stages, between Proch-
ladnaya and Yekatennograd, we ran in an hour and
two minutes, a distance of seventeen versts, or
nearly eleven and a half miles.
After having forded the Podkuma, we remarked
that Georgievsk had a formidable appearance from
the south, on account of its situation on the hffih
o
banks of that river. Near Pavlovskaya we crossed
a small river, where there is a rapid hill to ascend,
and we were obliged to walk. In this dell the Cir¬
cassians were formerly wont to make their attacks.
We were powerfully struck with a beautiful small
dell, or valley, on the left, in the middle of sui’-
rounding steps, whose declivitous sides were covered
with wood, and its centre filled with gardens. The
villages, besides those at some of the stations, were
YEKATEUINOGIIAD.-PAVLODOLSKOYE. 453
few in number. Yekaterinograd, which was once
intended to have been a government town,- may be
reckoned a large village, with a fortress, and the
unfinished'■ 'Tribunals falling into ruins. The Malka
is a considerable river, but the water is extremely
muddy. From Yekaterinograd the country becomes
more pleasant, and the views include green plains
with scattered trees, and the gentle hills of Circassia.
When we arrived at Pavlodolskoye, we were told
by the uriddnik, just before entering the gate,
that there were no post-horses, but that he had
given orders, and we should find them in the
village. We accordingly proceeded, when the
Kozaks, who had been sent before us, came up, and
said there were no horses. The stdrost was found,
and he ran from house to house and gave orders,
while the Kozaks were equally as busy, having re¬
ceived permission to take horses wherever they
could find them. The whole village was in an up¬
roar. Men, women, boys, and girls, led out their
harnessed horses from every door, and violent dis¬
putes arose as to whose should be taken, as none were
willing to give them, though necessitated to obey
the mandate. When we set off we left about
twenty horses behind us ; and, as we had paid well
for those we had received, the peasants were ulti¬
mately well pleased, as we had an opportunity of
learning upon our return. I mention this circum¬
stance to show how absolute power is used in a
despotic country. When the post-horses are all
g g 3
454
MOZDOK.-ITS POPULATION.
out, there is an understanding that the village
horses may supply their places, on urgent occa¬
sions, but in regular routine. On this occasion,
however, no regularity was observed, and the
peasants were forced to obey.
On arriving at Mozdok, we proceeded directly
to the police-office, and the master of police imme¬
diately ordered us quarters in the house of an
Armenian merchant, where we were well accommo¬
dated, but very unwelcome guests. In the even¬
ing we drank tea with the commandant, who made
all arrangements for our journey to Tiflis, and fur¬
nished us with an order for horses, and a guard in
the Caucasus. As a powerful convoy accompanies
the mail every Saturday, we had purposely calcu¬
lated our journey, so as to arrive at Mozdok on
Friday.
Mozdok lies upon the right bank of the Terek.
It is one of the largest towns in the south of the
Russian dominions, and contains a population of
about 5,000 souls, chiefly Armenians, Georgians,
and Circassians, besides some Russians, Greeks,
Tartars, Kalmucks, Kozaks, and Jesuit Jews. It
forms a small emporium between Russia and the
Caucasus and Georgia. The inhabitants chiefly
live by the products of their vineyards, gardens,
morocco manufactories, and a kind of spirit pre¬
pared from grapes, which they send to Russia.
They keep many silk-worms, and the town and
neighbourhood abound in white and red mulber-
ITS COMMERCE.-STREETS.-HOUSES. 455
lies for their support. Their chief commerce,
however, is with the mountaineers, to whose ne¬
cessities or luxuries they contribute.
The streets of Mozd6k are all straight and regu¬
lar. The principal one is broader than the rest,
and its southern extremity is terminated by a
square, in which are the police-office, a Russian
church, shops, &c. Ditches, with trees growing
out of their middle, run along both sides of all the
streets. The houses are mostly one story in height,
built of wood, and covered with the same material,
or with straw, and plastered 'with clay ; so that the
whole town would have a gloomy appearance, were
it not for the gardens which, in the Asiatic taste,
everywhere surround the houses, and, by their green
shade, their various-coloured blossoms, and their
abundance of fruit, give a cheerful aspect. The
Roman Catholic chapel is the best edifice in Moz-
dok, but Pater Henri, a Jesuit priest, who has offi¬
ciated in it for the last fifteen years, was about to
depart, in consequence of an Imperial ukaz, com¬
manding all Jesuits to quit the empire.
We saw many of the Armenian women here,
and some of them seemed as shy as the Tartar or
the Circassian females. They are a fine race of
people. They are married at a very early age;
and it is not uncommon for a mother to be no
more than thirteen years of age. The males do
not think of marriage till sixteen, eighteen, or
g g 4
456 THE TEREK.-REDOUBT OF ALEXANDER.
twenty; and it often happens that a man of forty
marries a girl of twelve years of age.
We laid in a stock of provisions at Mozdok to
serve us to Tiflis. On Saturday afternoon, the
10th of June, we left that town ; and, after proceed¬
ing about six versts, we came to the ferry of the
Terek, where were assembled crowds of individ¬
uals of different nations, and numerous equipages,
around a few wattled huts for the convenience
of the officers of the crown, quarantine, &c. The
Terek rises in the ravines of Mount Caucasus, near
one of its highest hills, the Kazbek, and, being
gradually increased by many tributary rivulets and
streams, passes through a rocky precipitous chan¬
nel, till it reaches a more level surface. At the
ferry it is a deep, wide, and rapid river. Re¬
taining an eastern direction from thence, it pro¬
ceeds to pour its waters into the Caspian sea, by
various embouchures beyond Kislar. This river,
according to modern geographers, forms the bound¬
ary between Europe and Asia. *
The ferry is very badly arranged; but, after
waiting a considerable time, we succeeded in
making our passage, and landed in Asia, where
we took up our quarters in the Alexdndrovskoi
Redid , or the Redoubt of Alexander. A small
basket-work house, half sunk in the earth, and
covered with clay, was allotted for us, as being the
* Vide p. 382. of this volume.
COMPOSITION OF A CARAVAN. 457
best accommodation of the place. Its bare walls
and damp floor, concealed by an abundance of hay,
gave it more the appearance of a stable than quar¬
ters for travellers; and, for our comfort, the sol¬
dier who attended gave us to understand, that we
should have plenty of society,—especially fleas and
bugs, —as numerous former tenants had slept upon
the hay - ; but we preferred walking in the open
air till bed-time, and then enjoyed the luxury of
sleeping in the carriages. *
The whole caravan had not crossed the Terek
before next morning. At half-past seven o’clock the
drum beat, as a signal for all to prepare to march, by
quitting the redoubt and assembling on the road.
Our cavalcade was of a very motley description.
Eleven Kozaks, divided into three parties, one in
the middle of the road, and one on each side, and
at a considerable distance, formed the advanced
guard. Our whole body of infantry consisted of
seventy soldiers, who, as well as the Kozaks, were
commanded by a lieutenant. Part of them fol¬
lowed the central Kozaks, with a three-pounder
and a powder magazine, each drawn by a team of
horses, in their rear. The mail-cart, filled with
large leathern bags, driven by a rude clumsy Rus¬
sian female, and surrounded by infantry, took the
* I collected the following plants by the banks of the T4rek:
Statice tatarica, Pyrethrum corumbosurn, Nepeta Ukrania
Phlomis pungens.
458 COMPOSITION OF A CARAVAN.-DEPARTURE.
next station, being the place of greatest security.
As a mark of respect, our carriages had the post
of honour, next to the mail-cart, assigned to them,
and were followed by about a hundred equipages
of various kinds. French calashes, Polish britch-
leas, Russian kibitkas and telegas, Hungarian
waggons, and Tartar arbas drawn by oxen,
formed the line nearly a mile in length. The
greatest part of the Russian and Tartar carts were
filled with seventy soldiers’ wives, who, by com¬
mand of General Yermolof, governor-general of
the Caucasus and Georgia, were proceeding to the
neighbourhood of Tiflis, to join their husbands for
the sake of colonisation. A number of these carts
were also loaded with black bread, millet, barrels
of kvass, and even of vodtki, for the support of these
women, and of 300 recruits who were on their way
to supply deficiencies in the Georgian army. Some
hundred horses, which were going from Rostof to
Tiflis for sale, were driven forward in the adjacent
fields, while herds of cattle from Stavropole, for the
same purpose, brought up the rear. Russians,
Georgians, Kozaks on business, Armenians,—some
of whom preferred making the journey on horse¬
back, — with ourselves, Italians, and Britons, were
the representatives of the nations of which the ca¬
ravan was composed.
At the sound of the second drum the proces¬
sion, as it might well be called, began j and, very
soon afterwards, the cavalcade was formed, by the
BANISHMENT OF THE TCHITCHENTSI. 459
lieutenant’s orders, into two parallel lines, so as to
be more compact, while the Kozak guards rode
a verst in advance, and on each side. After tra¬
velling seven versts we rested half an hour, as pre¬
paratory to a pretty rapid ascent among the moun¬
tains, which are of considerable height, and finely
wooded. It had rained all night, and still con¬
tinued to rain, so that the roads were excessively
heavy, and our carriages with great difficulty were
dragged to the summit of a hill, where the cara¬
van remained an hour to feed the cattle. We then
descended the same hill, whose southern aspect
was more dreary and bare than the northern, and,
after traversing a fine plain, we arrived at the pal¬
try redoubt of Konstantin, situated near the base of
the next range of mountains. Within the fortress
we got two miserable chambers, but somewhat
better than those we had left at Alexandrovskoi.
We had long conversations with different officers
with respect to the mountain tribes of the Caucasus,
and heard many relations respecting them, both
during our dreary drive of twenty miles, which had
occupied us about twelve hours, and after our arri¬
val at the place of rest for the night. An officer
whom we met informed us, that General Yermolof
was so incensed against the Tchitchentsi, one of
the most ferocious and untameable of the Caucasian
tribes, that he was now sending off great caravans
of them to Siberia. They are seized and kept pri¬
soners till a sufficient number is collected, and then
4(30 REDOUBT OF CONSTANTINE.
they are transported to the East for life. Surely
such rigorous policy is neither sanctioned by the
laws of God nor man. The Kabardians too have
lately been expatriated, and their country given to
others of the more tranquil tribes. Indeed, I have
been informed, that it is intended to establish Rus¬
sian colonies in these regions, so as more effectually
to repress the highlanders of the Caucasus; and
this will be easily done, as the soil is rich, and will
yield plentiful crops, if well cultivated.
The fort of Constantine is pleasantly situated *,
and a small temple on an adjoining rising ground
gives it a picturesque effect. We were surprised,
when informed that this temple was erected to the
memory of one of the princes of the Tchitchentsi,
who fell in an engagement between his followers
and a party of Russians.
On the 11th June, after a good night’s repose, we
were warned again by the signals to put ourselves
in motion. It had rained all night, the morning
was dark and dismal, and the roads were in a shock¬
ing state. By advice, we hired additional horses
for one of the carriages, and we were afterwards
* It is thus described by Sir R. K. Porter: — “ The fort
(called Algovi Kabaki, otherwise the fort of Constantine) is
one of the Russian positions which maintain the passes of the
mountains, and is situated on a rising ground, at the foot of a
high hill. These positions are mer ejield-jorts, surrounded by a
ditch. The inner face of the breast-work of the fort we were
then in, was additionally strengthened by a thick lining of
wicker-work.” — Travels in Georgia , Persia , &c. p. 567.
REDOUBT OF ELIZABETH.
4(51
glad that we had done so, as even with eight we
accomplished the ascent of seven versts, among the
hills, with difficulty, which was greatly increased
by the horses being unshod. The same kind of
scenery was seen to-day as yesterday; and during
the short intermission of rain and the dispersion of
the clouds, we perceived that the country was very
fine, varied with gentle elevations and valleys, in
some places bare, and in many covered with wood.
On our return from Georgia we enjoyed some exten¬
sive views from the tops of these mountains; and
the impression made upon our minds was that the
country for which the Tchitchentsi fought was
worthy of a struggle. We neither saw village, nor
human being, in the course of the day, though we
were told that there were both at the distance of
five or six versts from the road. Having descended
the second range of hills beyond the Terek *, and
walked over the plain, at the distance of thirteen
versts from the station, by permission of the com¬
manding-officer, and with a guard of Kozaks, we
left the caravan, crossed the rivulet Kambeleika,
and got pretty comfortably lodged in the Redoubt
of Elizabeth, another mean fortress, surrounded
* Madame Freyganch very inaccurately states that “ the
plain” which is crossed between Mozdok and Vladikavkaz,
“ offers nothing to the sight but uncultivated heaths.” She has
altogether forgot the two ranges of hills to which I have alluded,
and which, in many places, are covered with shrubs and woods.
Vid e. Letters from the Caucasus , p. 36.
462
VLADIKAVKAZ.
by earthen ramparts and palisades. The water we
found here was so muddy, that before we could
use it, we were obliged to employ boiling and
filtration.
On the 12th June, after the usual ceremonies,
we pursued our journey, over roads which were in
a horrible state, the rain having continued all night,
and still continuing. The route to-day was wholly
through a level country, a fine and rich plain, but
completely desolate. At the distance of live versts
we again left the convoy, with a guard, and arrived
at Vladikavkaz, whose lively appearance, on a
rising ground, at the bottom of the grand chain of
Mount Caucasus, somewhat relieved the gloom of
three days’ most tiresome march, in which we had
not travelled sixty miles, and during which the
roads were so bad, and the rains so incessant, that
we could not quit the carriages without getting
wet. We got comfortably lodged, and made a visit
to the governor, Colonel SkvartsofJ whom we found
very obliging. He had just received a letter, in¬
forming him that an avalanche had fallen beyond
Kobi, into the ravine in which the Terek flows,
and rendered it almost impassable. He, conse¬
quently, advised us to leave our carriages, and to
make the journey to Tiflis on horseback.
Vladikavkaz, from its situation, being a place of
great importance, deserves particular notice. Its
name is a compound word, derived from the Russian
verb vlddet, to govern or command, and Kavkdz, the
VLADIKAVKAZ.-ITS FORTRESS. 463
Russian name of the Caucasus; and this appellation
was given to the fortress because it commands one of
the passages of the chain of mountains which forms
the almost impenetrable barrier between Asia and
Europe. It is believed to be the key of the famous
Pijhv Sarmaticw, the Porta Caucasia, or the Porta
Iberica of the ancients, through which the Medes,
or rather their descendants, the Sarmatians, and
other nations, passed into the plains of the north,
and gave origin to a variety of nations. This pass
is generally known in modern times by the appella¬
tion Porta Caucasia, Porte Caucasienne, or Defile
of the Terek. The other passage of the Caucasus
was known to the ancients under the names of Pylce
Albania?, or Via Caspia; and in modern times
forms the Porte Caspienne, or the Pass of Derbent.
Because Pliny describes the fortress of Cumania,
some speak of a third mountain defile, though un¬
able to tell us where it is, and it appears probable
that it never had existence. Others, perhaps with
more reason, have bestowed the name Porta
Cumana to the Pass of the Terek, as one of its
synonymes.
The Russians, well aware of the importance
of the site of Vladikavkaz, resolved to erect a
fortress, which might not only serve as the head
quarters of the forces on the north side of the
mountains, but also as an emporium of military
stores for the neighbouring troops.
Within the boundaries of the fortress are nume-
4f)4 SHOPS. — DEPARTURE.
roiis magazines, barracks, and rows of shops, be¬
sides some white-washed houses, for the dwellings
of the governor and of the officers. The number
of troops stationed here varies, according to cir¬
cumstances, from a battalion to a regiment or two,
but it is always defended by a number of cannon.
The adjoining village, inhabited by Ossetinians,
has a very mean appearance.
The shops were well supplied with every article
we desired, and even with many kinds of wine.
The weather still being very unfavourable, we
took a hint from the custom of the natives of these
mountainous regions, and provided ourselves with
burchds, of which I have already spoken *, and
with great thick white flannel hoods, called bas/i-
Uks, which covered our caps. On the 14th of June,
mounted upon good horses, shrouded under our
uncouth but weather-proof hoods and mantles, and
accompanied by ten Kozaks displaying their lances,
and as many soldiers with their loaded guns, we left
Vladikavkaz, and crossed the Terek by along wooden
bridge, so covered with mud, that the road resem¬
bled a quagmire. Turning to the south, we traversed
a plain near the banks of the river, which here
flows with considerable rapidity. The scenery
on the left, intermixed with the villages of the
Ossetinians, warned us of our approach to the
charming views of which we had heard so much.
Eight versts from Vladikavkaz, we passed through
* Vide p. 220. of this volume.
BEAUTIFUL DEFILE.
465
Novinka, a village of the Ossetinians, and saw some
of them, who were employed in different kinds of
rural labour. Soon afterwards we passed the first
defile of the Porta Caucasia, about four versts in
length, presenting a combination of beauty and
sublimity which rivetted the attention, and re¬
minded me of the craggy mountains and romantic
Highland dells of Scotland, and with them, of the
agreeable associations of the days of one’s youthful
travels and adventures. Surrounded by beautifully
wooded hills, overhanging precipices, and naked
strata, which were intersected by ravines and val¬
leys, and with the rapid but dirty Terek and an
adjoining crystal stream flowing at our feet, it was
impossible not to admire ; and while we admired,
not to adore. *
The mountains became lower and farther sepa¬
rated before reaching a small village and military
station, balled Balta, twelve versts from Vladikav¬
kaz. In this village resides Devlet Mirza, an
Ossetinian noble, who is a captain in the Russian
service. Six versts further, and just before reach-
* The contrast between the water of the Terek, and that of
the rivulet, struck us very forcibly. The T£rek rises at a great
elevation, flows rapidly, and is continually receiving tributary
streams,which are formed from the melted snow during the warm
season of the year ; and these causes may partly account for
its being generally so muddy. Yet many mountain streams are
quite clear. The rivulet takes its origin from low hills, at no
great distance, and flowing quietly along, disturbs nothing in
its course.
VOL. I.
H H
4G6 MAKSXMKINA.-DEFILE OF LARS.-LARS.
ing the village of Maksimkina, our attention was
called to two high slender monuments rising in the
valley, with inscriptions upon them. They are
erected to the memory of two Georgian travellers
who were murdered near this spot by the natives.
The valley now again became narrow, forming a
second defile, encompassed by wild and terrific
scenery, which raised ideas of grandeur and sub¬
limity, rather than of beauty. Immense mountains,
on one side, present their naked walls, whose sum¬
mits, from our situation, were invisible, and from
whose nearly perpendicular craggy sides issue a
thousand rills and streams, forming numerous foam¬
ing cascades. On the other side were the ruins of an
old castle, a cemetery filled with white tombs, the
picturesque Ossetinian village, Lars, and a Rus¬
sian fortress; all backed by gentle hills, and these
by almost naked mountains.*
The village, Lars, is a very miserable dirtyplace,
built a good deal like some of the Tartar villages
in the Krimea. The natives behaved well, though
they seemed greatly astonished at our appearance.
In the small fort above the village is a number of
buildings.
We found a Russian officer dwelling in a wooden
house, adjoining to the village, who was there for
the purpose of superintending the roads, and who
gave us a very cordial reception. He was dressed
completely like one of the Ossetinian nobles,
*
* Sir II. K. Porter has given a plate of the Pass of the Cau¬
casus.
DEFILE OF DARIEL.
467
on purpose, he said, that the natives might not
readily recognise him, and that he might better
know what was going on in his neighbourhood.
We had changed the infantry three times in our
progress to Lars; and there we changed both
them and the Kozak guard, as well as our horses.
Through the mountain pass we reached the defile
of Dariel, which may be called the Thermopylae of
the Caucasus, where Nature is seen in her fantastic
wildness and sterility.
II h 2
CHAP. XI
DEFILE OF DARIEL.— VIEW OF THE CAUCASUS.— SUBTERRA¬
NEOUS ROAD. — THE TEREK.— IMPROVEMENT OF ROADS.-
THE FORTRESS OF DARIEL.— THE ANCIENT CASTLE OF DA¬
RIEL.— MOUNTAIN TRIBES.— IMPOLITIC CONDUCT OF RUSSIA.
-VILLAGE OF KAZBEK. — ITS INHABITANTS.-MOUNTAIN
OF KAZBEK.-CATHEDRAL.-MOUNT ZION.-KOBI.— DE¬
PARTURE. ALPINE PLANTS. MINERAL SPRINGS. AN
AVALANCHE. THE BI-GORA. THE MOUNTAIN OF THE
CROSS.— ASCENT OF THE GOOT-GORA.—CRITICISMS_BA¬
SALTIC ROCK-DESCENT OF THE GOOT-GORA.-KASHAUR.
— MILITARY STATIONS. — FARE FOR HORSES.,— COMPLAINTS
OF THE KOZAKS.— TEULUTIANS.-A CAT THEIR ORACLE.-
SINGULAR PUNISHMENT.-COLLECTION OF TAXES.- THE
ARAGUA.— CONDUCT OF AN OSSETINIAN.— VALE OF PAS-
SANANOOR.-FORT OF PASSANANOOR.— QUARANTINE OF
ANANNOOR. — FORTRESS OF ANANNOOR.— ITS CHURCH.—
NEW QUARANTINE-CASTLE OF DUSHET-TOWN OF DU¬
SHET.— PLOUGHING. — THE VALE OF ARAGUA. — KHARTIS-
DEFILE OF DARIEL.—VIEW OF THE CAUCASUS. 469
KARST.— MSKET.—THE KOOR.—THE CATHEDRAL OF MSKET.
— INTRODUCTION OF CHRISTIANITY. —THE TSARS OF GEOR¬
GIA.— ANECDOTE.— PASSAGE OF THE CAUCASUS.
The defile of Dariel is thus described by Sir R.
Porter: “ The chasm rises from the river’s brink,
upwards of a thousand feet. Its sides are broken
into clefts and projections, dark and frowning ; so
high, so close, so overhanging, that even at mid¬
day the whole is covered with a shadow bordering
on twilight.” With this description, the knight’s
pencil is in unison ; and the view he gives of the de¬
file is one of the best in his volumes. Some of his
other views, by such a master of his art, may be rec¬
koned complete failures. Though when he first saw
the proper boundary between Asia and Europe, he
tells us, in the most flowery style, that “ the vast
piles of Caucasus” presented to his view “ a world
of themselves; rocky, rugged, and capped with
snow ; stretching east and west beyond the reach
of vision, and shooting far into the skiesand
that “ it was a sight to make the senses pause ; to
oppress even respiration, by the weight of the im¬
pression on the mind, of such vast, overpowering
sublimity j” yet his “ Distant View of Mount Cau¬
casus ” does not convey the smallest idea of the
truly sublime original. Indeed, a gentleman, well
qualified to judge, said to me, that a view of Hamp¬
stead hills would give nearly as accurate a re¬
presentation of the altitude and grandeur of the
h h 3
470 SUBTERRANEOUS ROAD. — THE TEREK.
Caucasus, as Sir R. Porter’s plate; and there is
much truth in the observation. Some of his other
views, however, are master-pieces of wild majestic
scenery.
We had been forcibly struck at one part of the
journey of the preceding day. A few yards of the
road were blasted out of the solid rock, by the bank
of the Terek, so that we rode through a kind
of gallery, open on one side, and supported by pil¬
lars, beneath a huge mountain.* The Terek rolls its
course with great rapidity, sometimes separated
into a number of branches ; and no less than 800
soldiers were occupied in raising mounds of great
stones and trees, called counter-forces , to keep it
from destroying the road, and to confine it within
* After passing Balta, Sir R. Porter talks of the road run¬
ning beneath pendent archways of stone, which are merely
high enough to allow the passage under them of a low carriage;
and of a path so narrow as scarcely to admit two carriages to
pass each other;” while 44 one side of the road is on the edge of
a precipice, which, in some places, is sixty feet deep ; and in
others, above one hundred ; 9 with the 44 roaring waters of the
Terek at the bottom of this abyss.” I find no notice of any
such place in my notes, nor do I recollect any such road; and
I am inclined to think, that Sir R. Porter, or his transcriber, has
confounded this part of the defile with that above noticed, and
of which I am about to speak. As Sir R. Porter drew near
Dariel, he says, 44 our road was rendered still more obscure, by
its leading, for a considerable way, through a subterraneous
passage cut in the solid rock.” In Blackwood’s Magazine it
is remarked, 44 that this passage, however, is subterraneous,
in the usual acceptance of the word, only for the space of three
or four feet.” I believe my account above to be correct.
HOADS.— FORTRESS OF DARIEt. 471
a regular channel. Colonel Johnson says, “ it is a
matter deserving particular notice, that the Russian
soldiers, wherever stationed, are usefully employed
in public works, as roads, bridges, military posts,
&c. This employment cannot but operate most
favourably on their general character, as it coun¬
teracts those habits of dissipation to which soldiers
are prone in the intervals of active warfare. It
diminishes the repugnance excited by the presence
of soldiers among the inhabitants of a district, who
seeing them thus occupied, cease to regard them
as slothful and vicious intruders, the drones or lo¬
custs of the state.” * But I have great reason to
believe, that the mountaineers would much ra¬
ther not see any improvements of the kind in their
neighbourhood, as they tend to increase the means
both of resistance and of attack.
We crossed an excellent bridge, now the only
passage over the Terek near Dariel. The Osse-
tinians once destroyed it, when they knew that the
tax-officers were about to make them a visit. The
small fortress of Dariel is of more importance than
its appearance indicates, being situated in one of
the most dangerous places in the Porta Caucasia.
The ruins of a castle on a nearly isolated rock in
the middle of the valley, which commands the
gloomy defile through which we had passed, at¬
tracted our particular attention. They, as well as
* A Journey from India to England, p. 256.
H H 4
4<72 THE ANCIENT CASTLE OF DARIEL.
the bridge just alluded to, are well seen in the
vignette prefixed to this chapter. Sir R. Porter
“ found the ruins consisted of one strong square
tower, with thick massive walls surrounding it, and
encircling a space besides, sufficient to garrison
several hundred soldiers. This seemed the citadel
of the pass j” and “ on all the points where the
rocks might have formed advantageous lodgements
for any enemy who had been dextrous enough to
gain them, the ruins of subordinate out-works were
visible. The face of the mountain behind the
tower had been hewn, with manifest great labour,
into a kind of aqueduct, to convey water to the
garrison.” He adds, “ when we consider that
there would be ground within its lines, to supply
themselves and cattle with food, we could not sup¬
pose a place better adapted for the purposes of
such a station. A subterraneous passage runs down
from the castle to the bank of the river, communi¬
cating, probably, with other works which might
be below to bar more immediately the ingress
of the valley.” According to the calculations of
Dr. Reineggs, who made a number of visits to the
Caucasus, the elevation of the mountains directly
opposite the castle of Dariel is 3780 feet.
Were the above castle in good order, with a hun¬
dred men, and a few pieces of cannon, the Ther¬
mopylae might be defended against the combined
forces of Russia. We were informed, that a few Os-
setinians even kept command of the defile against
MOUNTAIN TRIBES.
473
a numerous corps of Russians, and killed all who
attempted to pass; till, at length, they were starved
out of their position. To prevent similar attempts
for the future, the Russians destroyed the castle;
but, probably, the natives rejoice that they cannot
remove the mountain, which may very likely
again become the seat of warfare.
Near Dariel, about a month before we passed
the defile, two Kozaks were attacked and murdered
by the natives. In ascending the mountain pass
towards Kazbek, we remarked numerous villages,
with square pyramidal towers, and surrounded by
walls, which were the native fortresses in more re¬
mote periods, when the various mountain tribes
waged war against each other. But these times are
past, and they seem to reckon that they have now a
common enemy. They appear to be united in a band
of friendship among themselves, and to have sworn
eternal enmity to the Russians, along the whole
mountain chain, from the Euxine to the Caspian.
It is the avowed policy of the Russians, to create
divisions among the different tribes ; but, although
they have been partially successful in their plans,
internal warfare, I believe, has not, of late, been
carried to a great extent.
Colonel Johnson says he understood that the
Russians were frequently the aggressors, and that
their conduct has been hitherto so oppressive and
unconciliating towards the Ossetinians, that this
tribe has been urged to a continuance of their pre-
474 IMPOLITIC CONPUCT OF RUSSIA.
datory habits by a spirit of retaliation, and be
alludes to some instances in proof of this assertion,
the most striking of which is the following : — A
Russian Major having been seized by the Tchit-
chentsi, one of the tribes of the Caucasus, the Em¬
peror Alexander sent orders to General del Pozzo,
who was then in command of Vladikavkaz, to pay
the sum of twenty-five thousand roubles demanded
for the release of the prisoner. The General, how¬
ever, marched with five or six hundred men to a
village inhabited by Tchitchentsi, who had been
protected in their labours of tillage, and to whom
ammunition and grain had been given, under a
stipulation that they should deter their wilder
friends and and neighbours from entering and plun¬
dering the Russian territories and roads adjacent.
The General sent for the head men of the village,
and told them that they must either pay him the
twenty-five thousand roubles themselves, or compro¬
mise the demand by procuring the release of the
Major, which accordingly was accomplished. The
General then wrote to his Imperial Majesty, that
he had assumed the discretion of acting in the man¬
ner described, as the most effectual preventive of
similar attacks in future.*
I heard an account, oflener than once, of a simi¬
lar kind, respecting the present governor-general
of Georgia, Yermolof but for the truth of which I
* A Journey from India, &c. p.261.
VILLAGE OF KAZBEK.
475
do not vouch. It is said, that when a ransome was
demanded by one of the mountain tribes for a pri¬
soner, he ordered a body of soldiers to be assembled,
and took all the flocks and herds with which they
could come in contact, and retained them till the
prisoner was released, notwithstanding that other
conditions of exchange had been fixed.
Continuing a gentle ascent, we reached the vil¬
lage of Kazbek, called after the mountain of the
same name, at whose base it lies. This village
consists of different streets, or rather lanes, irregu¬
larly thrown together ; and the houses are all built
of dark-coloured schistus, with small round-topped,
and even Gothic, windows, or rather apertures,
and flat roofs. Many of them consist of two small
stories; and in some there is no other approach to
the upper story than by a ladder. The house of
the late Colonel Kazbek is like a small fortress,'
near the middle of the village. It is an oblong-
square edifice, two stories in height, with columns
before it, and is inclosed by a high wall, agreeably
to the custom of the natives.* On our return from
Georgia we were accommodated with lodgings in
one of the edifices within its walls, and wished
much to have seen our hostess, the widow of Co¬
lonel Kazbek, but she was said to be indisposed.
Her husband was a native chief who was com¬
pletely in the service of Russia, and who became a
* This edifice is well seen in the frontispiece of “ Lettres
sur le Caucasus,” & c.
476 INHABITANTS AND MOUNTAIN OT KAZBEK.
Christian convert. A small new church, dedicated
to the Trinity, as I found by an inscription in its
front, had been erected in 1809, by the Colonel,
and now may be said to form his monument. He
died six or eight years ago, and left considerable
property to his family. His son is in the Russian
service.
The inhabitants of Kazbek are chiefly Ossetin-
ians, and most of them Christians. They are allied
to the Georgians, with whom they maintain friendly
communication, and are disliked by their brethren
of the mountains on account of their religion, and
still more so on account of their adherence to the
Russians.
The Kazbek* had been all day concealed in the
clouds. While we were at the village of the same
name, it threw off its shroud for a moment, and
appeared in all its glory, its snowy top reflecting
the rays of the setting sun with the greatest bril¬
liancy. On our return from Georgia, the weather
was clear, and the whole mountain was seen to
great advantage. One of the party then took a
* The name of this mountain is differently written. We have
it under the forms of Kazibek, Kassy-beg, and Ghazi Beg. The
Russians, whom I have followed, call it Kazbek. Klaproth
says, that it is called Mquinivari, which signifies Snow-Moun¬
tain ; and that the Ossetinians name it Tseritsi-Tsoub, Pic du
Christ, or Ours-Khokh, or White Mountain. Voyage , vol. i.
p. 471 .— The translator of Letters from the Caucasus, &c.
says, that Ghazi Beg is its Arabic and Turkish name, and im¬
plies, Hero of the true Faith.
CATHEDRAL.-MOUNT ZION.
■m
sketch of it, but already it has been well repre¬
sented in several works. Parrot and Eingelhardt
have calculated the height of the Kazbek to be
14,400 feet above the level of the Black Sea.
A very striking object at Kazbek, is the view of
a cathedral on an adjoining high mountain, per¬
haps between 1500 and 2000 feet above the level
of its base, which, with other churches, was erected
nearly 600 years ago by the Princess Tamara of
Georgia, who converted the people of her domi¬
nions to Christianity.
Having changed horses at Kazbek, we proceeded
on our journey, and, as we rode along, enjoyed
some of the grandest scenery which can be con¬
ceived. I was particularly struck with the view of
Mount Zion, its snow-clad ridges, its monastery,
and its castle. They are exhibited in an engraving,
after a masterly sketch by Sir Gore Ousely, which
the English Translator of “ Letters from the Cau¬
casus has judiciously introduced as a frontispiece
to her work.
We overtook three Kozaks who were on their
return to Kobi, and made an agreement with them
to accompany us. We desired our guard of Kozaks
to precede us, and we rode off) and soon arrived
at that place, leaving the infantry to pursue their
march at their leisure. We frequently stopped,
however, to enjoy the views of the majestic cloud-
capped mountains, and the barren hills, by which
we were surrounded.
478
KOBI.
Mrs. Freyganch has given such a description of
Kobi as disgusts the traveller with the place be¬
fore his arrival: but Colonel Johnson says, “ this
post is well built, and has accommodations for many
visitors and travellers.” Sir Robert Ker Porter has
well described Kobi as we found it. “ This post,”
says he, “ like most of the others, consists of a
square fort, protected by earthen embankments,
palisadoes, and a shallow ditch. A few dirty
rooms, totally devoid of furniture, are set apart for
the reception of travellers.” A bench formed
all the furniture of the room we occupied, which
was dirty in the extreme, and unluckily its win¬
dow was immoveable. As there is no wood
nearer Kobi than twelve versts, we paid four rou¬
bles for as many bundles of dried underwood as
was necessary to cook our dinner. But scarcely
had we kindled a fire when the apartment in
which we had fixed ourselves was so filled with
smoke, that we were obliged to go out, and for
the first time, we felt the real want of our car¬
riages, in which we had before luxuriously re¬
posed. We allowed the fire to be extinguished,
and then laid down to sleep upon our burchas, and
small pillows placed upon the bench.
In the course of the evening, we had been
amused by seeing a regiment of Kozaks and their
commander, as well as by some infantry officers,
who had reached this place in caldshes and kiUtlcas ,
and who were in their route to join the Georgian
DEPARTURE.-ALPINE PLANTS.
479
army, which, owing to the great mortality, requires
annual reinforcements.
Having overcome some difficulties, which were
made by the unaccommodating commandant of
Kobi, respecting horses, we set off from this
dreary abode at six o’clock in the morning of the
15th of June. Although we had been gradually
ascending, from the time we entered the defiles of
the Caucasus, yet as we also descended into nu¬
merous small valleys, this circumstance was the
less remarkable. Having begun the ascent, how¬
ever from Kobi, the vicinity of the snow, the cool
temperature, and the alpine plants, soon made us
sensible of being, as it were, transported to an¬
other climate. I was quite delighted with the
botanical banquet of Caucasian rhododendrons,
daphnes, anemones, and primroses, which deco¬
rated the sloping bases of these mighty moun¬
tains, at a short distance from the line of demarc¬
ation where vegetation ceases under an eternal
covering of snow.*
Between three and four versts from Kobi, large
* The principal plants I collected between Kobi and Kres-
tovaya Gora, were Rhododendron Caucasicum, Daphne glome-
rata, Gallium Tataricum, Trollius patulus, Gentiana angulosa,
Primula longifolia, Anemone narcissifolia (both with red and
white flowers), Veronica gentianoides, Cerastium ruderale, Po-
tentilla opaca, Fritillaria tulipiflora, Orobanche coccinea, Me-
lampyrum arvense, Arenaria heteromalla, Hedysarum Baux-
baumianum, Parietaria lusitanica, Hedysarum petraeum, and
Symphitum asperrimum.
480 MINERAL SPRINGS.-AN AVALANCHE.
patches of ground, of a fine orange colour, called
our attention to them. They are found on both
sides of the road, and are caused by numerous
springs of mineral waters which arise in the moun¬
tains, and in their course deposit a yellow ochre
upon every surface with which they come in con¬
tact grass, stones, or the bottoms of rills and ca¬
vities. In some small natural basins, the fountains
issued from the earth in a state of rapid efferves¬
cence, and the water was found to possess the
same qualities as the mineral springs at Kislavod-
skii. #
About two versts farther, we reached the ava¬
lanche, of which Colonel Skvartsof had informed us
when at Vladikavkaz, and which had detached itself
from an adjoining high mountain, fallen into the val¬
ley, and interrupted, or dammed up theTitri-Dskali,
so that for some days the passage was highly dan¬
gerous. The river, at length, however, forced its
way under the snow, and excavating a passage, left
a snow-bridge, which was traversed by passengers,
horses, and even carriages. The arch having be¬
come daily weaker by the melting of the snow,
at last gave way, a couple of days before our ar¬
rival. We had considerable difficulty in crossing
and re-crossing the ravine and the river, even on
horseback, and were well pleased that we had left
our carriages behind. The Kozak and infantry
officers, alluded to at Kobi, as we subsequently
* Vide p. 439. of this volume.
THE BI-GORA.
481
learned, were obliged to employ a great number
of men to clear away the snow, who afterwards
supported the carriages upon their shoulders in
passing the river.
Water-cresses (Sisymbrium Nasturtium ) and
marsh-marigold (Caltha pal us Iris') were abundant
every where in the rills and marshy places
among the mountains, even very near the snowy
regions.
Pursuing the ascent, we soon reached an Osse-
tinian cottage, built upon the hill called the Bi-Gora,
whose inhabitants cheerfully supplied us with warm
milk, after quieting a savage dog, which violently
assaulted our horses’ heels. It has been well re¬
marked, that these demi-savages, in one respect,
may remind us of the charitable zeal of the monks
of St. Bernard in Switzerland. They assist the
forlorn traveller in his winter path, and afford him
shelter from the howling tempest or the drifting
snow, under the roof of their humble hut. Ac¬
cording to Sir R. K. Porter, the munificence of the
emperor, Alexander,provides for this establishment.
The family cultivate a piece of ground near their
habitation. The produce, with sheep and goats,
consigned to their charge, and a large depot of
flour and brandy, are always ready for the purposes
of charity.
Having forded a clear mountain-stream a little
further on, we continued our ascent, and soon
reached the highest point of the alpine pass, the
VOL. i. 11
1S2 THE MOUNTAIN OT THE CROSS.
Krestovaya Gord, or the Mountain of the Cross,
which at once recalled to mind the place named
“ Rest and he Thankful ,” at Glencoe, in the high¬
lands of Scotland. On this hill is a massy pedestal,
surmounted by a cross, formed out of the same
stone, and with an inscription on it. It was erected
to commemorate the completion of the road, by the
Russians, through the Porta Caucasia, in 1809.
The descent from hence, by a long winding road,
conducted us to a plain, in which was an encamp¬
ment of Georgian merchants, whose chief property
consisted in hundreds of horses, which were feed¬
ing around them. From the plain begins the
ascent of the Goot-Gora, which we traversed by an
excellent road, cut out along its declivities. Hence
we enjoyed a fine view of an immense valley, in which
the Aragua, the Araxis of the ancients, flows; and
which we could nearly trace with the eye to its
source, among many foaming rills, which rushed
from the chasms of the adjoining mountains. This
valley is covered with numerous villages, corn¬
fields, and pasture-lands, and formed quite a con¬
trast to the savage scenery we had left behind us.
After an alarming description of the descent
from the Mountain of the Cross, Sir R. Porter
quite terrifies us by a difficulty “ of still more
formidable magnitude.” “ Nothing can paint,”
says he, “ the terrific situation of the road which
opened before us, at Good Gora. It seemed little
better than a scramble along the perpendicular face
ASCENT OF THE GOOT-GORA.-CRITICISMS. 483
of a rock, whence a fall must be instant destruc¬
tion and while pursuing this “ perilous way, at
the bottom of the green abyss, the Aragua ap¬
peared like a fine silver line,” and the knight dared
not trust himself “ to gaze long on a scene at
once so sublime and so painfully terrible.” But
leading his horse “ as near as he could to that
side of the road where the Good Gora towered to
the sky, and therefore opposite to that which edged
the precipice,” he looked with anxiety on his
fellow-travellers, “ who were clinging to the stony
projections, in their advance up this horrid esca¬
lade.” “ Who would imagine,” says an anony¬
mous writer, “ that this ‘ horrid escalade ’ is almost
daily effected by carriages; nay, that the author’s
(Sir R. Porter’s) own calash mounted with himself
— that for a hundred yards or more, immediately
below the road, this ‘ green abyss’ is yearly mown
for hay, by the inhabitants of the neighbouring vil¬
lages, and that a path leads almost directly down
to it, by which this hay is carried to the foot of the
mountain, over the backs of asses! — Yet such is
the fact.” This critic, like ourselves, appears to
have passed through the mountain defile in the
summer, and to have encountered no difficulty.
Though the ascent of the hill must be more ardu-
ous at an advanced season of the year, when the
road, in some places of the mountain side, may be
filled up by snow and ice, yet I am still inclined to
484 DESCENT OF THE GOOT-GOUA.—KASHAUR.
think Sir Ii. Porter’s account possesses more of
romance than accuracy.
On the west side of the Aragua an interesting
hill, presenting a bold perpendicular front of (ap¬
parently) basaltic columns on whose summit is an
old square castle, and a village embosomed in
woods and shrubbery, form the centre of the val¬
ley already mentioned, which must have a dreary
and wild appearance in winter.
The descent from the Goot-Gora is rapid, and
over a very bad road, covered with large stones.
We often deserted it, by advice of our Kozaks.
By a gentle ascent we reached the station of
Kashaur, where are two villages, with a square
tapering tower, and a redoubt, similar to that of
Kobi. These mean and gloomy villages are sur¬
rounded by a profusion of the beautiful Azalea
pontica and Daphne glomerata, which greatly en¬
liven their vicinity. Guard was mounted, and the
soldiers were ready to serve us. Here, as at all the
stations between Vladikavkaz and Tiflis, are a
number of infantry, varying fiom twenty to fifty
soldiers, and about twenty-five Kozaks.
The Kozaks receive the fare (the progon ) of
their horses, which becomes a considerable perqui¬
site to them, when paid, as they get twelve kopeeks
per verst for each horse, on account of the dearness
of the corn which is brought from the south of
Russia, for feeding them. Even hay is dear, as for
TEULUT1ANS.-A CAT THEIR ORACLE. 485
want of proper attention, enough of it is not pro¬
duced to supply forage. It is sold to them by the
natives, at above a rouble per pood; a greater
price by far than is paid at Moscow in ordinary
circumstances. The Kozaks complained much of
the Russians paying for no more than a half or a
third, of the number of horses they take for their
journeys, especially as they have only an opportu¬
nity, in the summer season, of making a small
sum to defray their expenses, and to repay their
trouble. *
An officer who accompanied us through the moun¬
tain defiles, and who had passed a number of years
in this vicinity, informed us, that numerous villages
which we had remarked before reaching Kashmir
were inhabited by Teulutians , who had an oracle
that was consulted on all occasions. He had been
employed, at times, to collect taxes among this
people, with whom he was on good terms. Though
the pretended oracle, under the form of a cat, was
in his pay, yet it told its devotees that they ought
to kill him. He was invited to their annual fete ,
and most unexpectedly attacked. One of his men
was killed, and he himself wounded; and, indeed,
he effected his retreat with great difficulty. The
same gentleman also told us, that the greatest
punishment employed by these people is of a sin¬
gular kind: a cat is tied upon the delinquent’s
* Vide p. 296. of this volume.
i i 3
486 SINGULAR PUNISHMENT.-TAXES.
back, and is then irritated by gentle strokes, which
it naturally retaliates by scratching. The sufferer is
afraid to offer resistance, because the animal-being
sacred, to hurt or kill it would be a great crime.
From the mountain tribes of the Caucasus,
taxes in kind — for money is really out of the
question — are collected with great difficulty from
the few individuals who are peaceable. The
Russians are obliged to employ all kinds of strata¬
gems in order to accomplish their designs, and
sometimes they resort to very dishonourable me¬
thods. Princes and nobles have been invited to
dinner, and their arms and clothes seized, and kept
as pledges, till redeemed by the payment of their
assessed taxes ; but they are no longer to be duped
in this manner. A gentleman, who was very ca¬
pable of judging of the matter, supposed that the
mountaineers would willingly avoid all communi¬
cation with the Russians, except for the necessity
to which they are in some places reduced, of being
dependant upon them for some supplies. He also
said that it would be very difficult to ascertain the
exact population of the Caucasus, as no lists are
kept, either of the births or deaths, and, as^ many
of the natives live in the fastnesses of the moun¬
tains, which were never trod by an European.
Provided with good horses, and our usual guards,
we soon reached one of the most beautiful land¬
scapes I ever beheld : a valley equal in length to
that of Baidar in the Krimea, but far surpassing it,
THE AKAGUA. -CONDUCT OF AN OSSETINIAN. 487
if not in beauty, at least in sublimity, through
which the Aragua flows toward the Koor or the
Cyrus of ancient days. The descent into this val¬
ley is long and difficult, and winds, in a zig-zag
direction from the summit of the hill nearly to the
river just mentioned, through delightful woods, and
conducts to a more genial climate than that of the
mountains. Passing a barrack, or small white house,
where are stationed a number of soldiers, we crossed
the Aragua, by a good bridge, the erection of which
is commemorated by an adjoining stone pyramid.
Having lost the party while in search of plants in
the woods, I took a short by-path, in order to
join them. An Ossetinian, who saluted me, and
conducted me into another way, gave me some
uneasiness, but acted with great propriety. I then
suddenly came upon a family encamped in the wood.
The husband seemed as much alarmed as I was,
and, putting his hand upon his dagger,—which I
did not then know was a sign of friendship,—he
made a bow to me. Keeping at a respectable dis¬
tance, we held a conversation in pantomime. He
perfectly comprehended that I had lost my way,
and made signs, by observing which, after a rapid
gallop, I' regained the road, and was soon over¬
taken by the party.
In passing through the vale of Passananoor,
the continual succession of wooded hills and lofty
mountains, of craggy pinnacles and frightful pre¬
cipices, with deep ravines, and dark and dismal
i i 4
488 VALE AND FORT OF PASSANANOOR.
glens, which pour their tributary streams into
the Aragua, is peculiarly grand and sublime, and,
with some small but charming dells, forms a wild
but beautiful combination of alpine scenery. The
villages of the natives of this delightful valley,
pitched among the craggy points and overhanging
cliffs of apparently inaccessible mountains, and
at such enormous heights as to be almost invis¬
ible, as well as numerous square towers or castles
which were used as places of refuge in the times
of former intestine broils, add a degree of the ro¬
mantic and picturesque which is seldom combined.
Hawthorns, honey-suckles, guelder-roses, and
barberries, besides a great variety of wild plants,
grew in profusion among the woods, and by the
banks of the Aragua, and numerous warblers cheer¬
ed us with their sweet notes, as we approached Pas¬
sananoor, where the valley becomes more narrow.
Passananoor, another palisadoed fortress, with
a number of small edifices and barracks, and a few
native huts, is placed, as it were, at the bottom of
an inverted cone, whose sides are formed by moun¬
tains, covered to their summits with a variety of
beautiful trees and shrubs.
The road between Passananoor and Ananoor
is one of the most delightful imaginable, and often
presents such scenery as is described in the vale
between Kashaur and Passananoor. Like the Terek,
on the north side of the Caucasus, the Aragua on
the south was extremely dirty, and its banks were
QUARANTINE OF ANANOOR. 489
covered with innumerable lofty wide-spreading
beech trees.
We arrived at the quarantine of Ananoor ; and,
though we got the best apartments of the establish¬
ment, they were very bad, and, what was worse,
very damp. By bribing high, we procured wood :
but, the mercatdnt , as they called the grocer of the
place, gave us bad butter, bad fish, bad caviar, bad
eggs, bad every thing ; and, so poor was the place,
that after our servant had prepared some portable
soup, we were obliged to eat it out of the lids of
the pans. The captain of Ananoor was not at
home, so we bought hay, which probably had been
purchased a dozen of times before, and prepared
our beds by spreading our burchas over it.
On the following day, impatient at our detention
in such a detestable place, we sent for the captain
of the quarantine, who informed us, that the laws
required that travellers should remain there for
four days, even when there was no suspicion of
the plague, and forty days when there was. As
even four days was a serious loss of time for us, we
endeavoured to make arrangements, and offered a
considerable bribe to be allowed to proceed on our
journey. But this was rejected : a circumstance
which surprised me, as the captain was a Rus¬
sian, and as its parallel does not often occur. He
consented, however, to let us go on the following
day, as he has the discretionary power of abating
the time fixed, when there is a certainty of the
490 FORTRESS OF ANANOOR. -ITS CHURCH.
party enjoying perfect health, which I, as a physi¬
cian, attested. The useless ceremony of fumigat¬
ing our bilrchas was gone through, so as, in some
degree, to conform to the orders of the institution.
The quarantine of Ananoor consists of a num¬
ber of small low wooden thatched houses, forming
a square, and all very miserable habitations. Yet
here we found there were separate apartments for
nobles and for commoners, store-magazines, fumi¬
gation-rooms, &c. Among other sources of amuse¬
ment we visited the house for the common travel¬
lers, which has apertures, but no windows, in its
walls, so that it was sure of a thorough ventilation.
The inmates of this dwelling consisted of Arme¬
nians, Georgians, Hungarians, and Jews from near
Kislar, who were dancing to the sound of the
tambarine, or playing at various games for money.
The Jews, having their heads shaved, and wearing
the Asiatic dress, Ave did not at first distinguish
from Tartars. They were selling Kalmuck lamb¬
skins, black and curled, at ten roubles each, which
may be reckoned a high price, although they are
much used in Russia, as well as in Georgia and
Persia.
On the 17th June, having already breakfasted, at
seven o’clock in the morning we gladly quitted the
quarantine, and soon arrived at the fortress of An-
nanoor, whose embattled and loop-holed walls and
towers, include the church of the village. The
money of the district is contained in the church;
NEW QUARANTINE. — CASTEE OF DUSH&T. 491
and, we were assured, that a cellar under it was con¬
verted into a powder magazine. It is built in the
form of a cross, with a single cupola, and of hewn
stone. The town, or rather paltry village of An-
nanoor, stands on one side of the fortress. Leaving
the Aragua on the left, we turned to the right, and
after riding two or three versts, we came to the
New' Quarantine, an establishment which, no doubt,
by this time is finished, and proves a very great
convenience to travellers. It is situated on an
elevation by the side of a rivulet, and consists of
three different squares, formed by stone walls, and
includes numerous edifices built of the same mate¬
rials. One of those squares is for the nobles and
gentlemen, a second for common people, and a
third for all kinds of merchandise. From hence
we ascended a steep hill, and had some fine views
of alpine scenery, with a few small scattered vil¬
lages, intermixed with ruined walls and towers, in
the fore-ground.
By a long and gentle declivity we reached Du-
shet. Here is a regular fortified castle, with a
Georgian inscription, on a marble slab over the
principal gate; butit, is a place of no great strength.
The author of the “ Letters from the Caucasus,
$c.” speaks of it as a chateau, which has served for
the former residence of the tsar of Georgia, He-
raclius, and as a complete square, having a gallery
running round it; but it is now falling to decay,
and is used as a barrack for a battalion of soldiers,
492 PLOUGHING.—VALE OF ARAGUA.
and twenty-five Kozaks, who dwell without its
walls.
Dushet is called a town, but it hardly deserves
the name. It reminded us of the streets or lanes of
Baktchiserai, filled with low small shops, or boxes,
in which different articles are exposed for sale, and
where all kinds of tradesmen were at work, and
even weavers of coarse linen, sitting upon the
ground with their feet in holes in the earth. A
church, and some surrounding villages, with towers
like fortifications, deserve notice.
Around Dushet there is a good deal of open
space and cultivated land. Here we saw the
Georgians at labour with ten pair of oxen and buf¬
faloes, and five men employed for each plough,
which had a very extraordinary appearance.*
Having changed horses, after occasionally ascend¬
ing and descending, we again reached the banks
of the Aragua, which we had left at the castle of
Ananoor, and entered a fine and delightful valley,
much more open than either the vale of Passana-
noor, or that of Ananoor.
The country now assumed more the aspect of
cultivation, and of the beautiful, than of the wild
and sublime. We soon entered into a cross-valley
on the right and left of the road, called, by some,
the Vale of Aragua. It is between twenty and
thirty miles in length, and six and eight in
* Vide p.355. of this volume.
KHARTISK ARST.-MSKET.
49S
breadth, with gently elevated slopes, fringed richly
with wood, and lofty hills in the back-ground.
After having seen the situation of Tiflis, I am sur¬
prised that the vale of Aragua had not rather been
chosen as the site of the capital of Georgia. On
the south of this valley the Kozak station, Khar-
tiskarst, generally called Khartiskel, or simply
Rskal, is beautifully situated on a rising ground
amid lofty trees. About ten versts before reach¬
ing this place, we passed some houses in the form
of a square, which are used as barracks for infantry,
and a few Kozaks. We changed horses at Khar-
tiskarst, and soon came in sight of the ruins of a
castle, on an insulated hill, by the banks of the
Aragua. From hence two fine old churches on
the west, and a ruined castle on a bold project¬
ing rock, on the east of the Aragua, and with fine
intermixed scenery, make a beautiful landscape.
We entered the small village of Msket, now inha¬
bited by Georgians and Armenians, part of which
we absolutely rode over; and, but for smoked
holes, serving as chimneys, in the flat earth-covered
roofs of the houses, we should scarcely have dis¬
tinguished them from the roads, or lanes, which
wind among them. In many places they are half
under ground, and some of them are altogether
subterranean. They are built in the sides of de¬
clivities, in other places, like the huts of the Kri-
mean Tartars; but they are not enlivened by the
luxuriant foliage which gives a cheerful aspect to
-1'1H
MSKET.—THE KOOR.
the latter. Indeed they impressed us with the idea
of poverty and wretchedness, and are by no means
in harmony with the rich scenery of the valley in
which they lie, or the mountains by which it is sur¬
rounded. Msket is supposed to be one of the most
ancient towns of the universe ; and, tradition says,
it was inhabited by some of the earliest descendants
of Noah. It was formerly the capital of Georgia,
and was then tw r enty miles in circumference, and
is said to have contained eighty thousand men ca¬
pable of bearing arms; an account which probably
was exaggerated, though, it must be confessed, that
numerous ruins, by the banks of the Koor, and in
the vicinity, testify that it was once of considerable
size. Sir R. K. Porter supposes it is the Artanissa
and the Misletta of Pompey, and the Harmastis of
Pliny.
Msket now occupies the angle formed by the
confluence of the Koor and the Aragua, or the
Cyrus and the Aragus of the Greeks, whose united
waters, under the former appellation, run through
Tiflis, and after a winding course between Moghan
and Sheervan, fall into the Caspian Sea, near the
bay of Baku, at its southern extremity.
The objects which attract attention here, are the
debris of the palace of the ancient tsars, or
princes of Georgia, or, strictly speaking, of Ka-
chetia; the ancient churches, and a castle on the
east side of the Koor.
The fine cathedral church which rises amid the
CATHEDRAL.
•KJ5
ruins of the chateau, is one of the best examples
of the style of architecture which has generally
prevailed throughout Georgia, ever from the in¬
troduction of Christianity up to the present time.
Like the Greek temples, it is built in the form of
a cross, and resembles the church of Ananoor,
hereafter represented, though of much greater
magnitude. It is constructed entirely of stone,
hewn and polished. Neither iron nor wood are
employed in its massy strong Avails, arches, or
cupola. It interior is surrounded by arcades,
neither beautiful nor Avell proportioned. It is
still used for the performance of divine service,
after the Greek ritual, but in the Georgian lan¬
guage ; of course the feAv ornaments Avith Avhich
it is decorated, are all in the Greek style.
The chapel of St. Nino, who, according to some
accounts, introduced Christianity into Georgia in
the beginning of the fourth century, under the
reign of the Tsar Marian, next attracted our atten¬
tion. Some state, that Nino, Avho became the
patroness of Georgia, Avas carried capt.h r e to this
country in the time of Constantine the Great,
and that Marian, convinced of the miraculous
cures she performed by the poAver of her religion,
became a convert to Christianity, and, like "Vladi¬
mir in Russia, obliged his subjects to embrace the
same faith. Others relate that St. Nino Avent of
her own accord, from Rome to Jerusalem, and
from thence into Iberia, for the purpose of dif¬
fusing the true faith, and that she bore a cross.
49G
INTRODUCTION OF CHRISTIANITY.
made of the vine, bound with her hair; and, holding
it in her hand, preached the doctrine of the Evan¬
gelists. This cross was carefully preserved by the
Tsars of Georgia, who during their absence depo¬
sited it in the cathedral of Msket, When this
country was invaded by the Turks and the Persians,
in 1720, it was carried into the mountains, and
remained for a while in the church of Ananoor ;
from whence it was afterwards sent to the Tsare¬
vitch (son of the tsar) Vachtang, at Moscow. The
Tsar Heraclius had often, though without success,
reclaimed the revered relic from the descendants
of Vachtang, But at length, Prince Bokarefj
nephew of the latter, laid the cross at the feet
of the Emperor Alexander, who graciously restored
it to Georgia.*
In the cathedral of Msket the ancient tsars
were crowned, and their remains deposited after
* Vide Letters from the Caucasus and Georgia. Voyage en
Perse par Maurice de Kotzebue. Voyages de Chevalier Char¬
din en Perse et autres lieux de POrient.
According to Mosheim, the light of the Gospel was intro¬
duced into Iberia , a province of Asia, now called Georgia , in
the following manner. A certain woman was carried into that
country as a captive, during the reign of Constantine the
Great, and by the grandeur of her miracles, and the remark¬
able sanctity of her life and manners, she made such an im¬
pression upon the king and queen, that they abandoned their
false gods, embraced the faith of the Gospel, and sent to Con¬
stantinople for proper persons to give them and their people a
more satisfactory, and complete knowledge of the Christian
religion. Mosheim s Ecclesiastical History, vol. i, p. 338.
THE TSARS OF GEORGIA. 197
death, as well as those of the nobles. Among
many tombs, those of the two last Georgian tsars,
Heraclius, and his son George, are the most con¬
spicuous, being raised about a foot and a half
from the ground near the centre of the nave, and
on each side of the steps of the ambon. Over
them are cross plates, with inscriptions, indicating
the names, the titles, the time of birth and
death of the royal personages, and informing us
that the sepulchres were erected by the Marquis de
Paulucci, then governor-general of Georgia, in
consequence of an order to that effect from his
Imperial Majesty Alexander. If my notes be cor¬
rect, it is plainly stated in the inscription on the
tomb of the Tsar George, that he ceded these
states to Russia in 1801 ; so that the apparent mark
of reverence for the dead, might also be intended
to remind the Georgians of their legal subjection
to Russia. This power is never wanting in Jinesse
to accomplish her purposes of ambition and ag¬
grandisement.
Another church, which we had passed on the
west, near Msket, is said to be of more modern
erection than the cathedral ; otherwise it exactly
resembles it both in the exterior and interior. It
is now out of repair and out of use.
Upon an eminence to the north, are the ruins
of a fort constructed by the Princess Amilach-
vorof, above two thousand years ago, and part of
VOL. 1. K K
498 ANECDOTE. — PASSAGE OF THE CAUCASUS.
the walls remain entire to a considerable height.
Thence you have a superb view over the long
and fruitful valley of the Aragua, which ex¬
tends for thirty versts, interspersed with towers
and hamlets. There is scarcely any old castle that
has not its tale of murder, is not haunted by a
ghost; but the story goes here, that this fort was
for a long time inhabited by a princess of strong
passions who used to entice young travellers to
her castle, and afterwards have them thrown from
the top of one of it towers into the river, hoping
by these means to conceal her crimes and shame.*
We were now within a station of Tiflis, and
could scarcely believe we had crossed the Cauca¬
sus, having had the most erroneous ideas as to the
immense difficulties which were to be encountered.!'
* Lettres sur le Caucase, &c. p. 109.
+ I had no time for making any mineralogical or geologi¬
cal remarks, worth publishing, with respect to the Caucasus.
The following extracts, however, may be interesting to some
readers.
According to Engelhardt and Parrot, between Kobi and
Abana, on the right bank of the Terek, the rocks consist of
compact, greyish-black, slaty limestone; from Abana to Ste¬
pan Sminda, of porphyry and clay slate ; and from thence to
Dariel, variously-alternating beds of greenstone,hornblend-slate,
black compact trapp, gneiss, and granitic sienite occur. About
Lars, clay slate, with green-stone, is found; and, lower down,
from Kaitukina to the foot of the mountain, compact, grey,
brown, and black limestone. — Reise in die Krym and den Kau~
kass , 1812.
PASSAGE OF THE CAUCASUS.
499
Madame Freyganch has given quite a romantic
and terrific description of the road,—its inconve-
“ At the entry of the valley of the Tdrek, which stretches to
the south-south-east, and which cuts all the northern Caucasus,
the mountains on the right and left are of transition limestone,
afterwards of argillaceous schistus, then, higher up, in ascend¬
ing the river, of sienite. Behind Dariel the sienite sinks, and
basalt, interrupted by mountains of argillaceous schistus, begins
to be seen ; it stretches not only into the highest part of the
Caucasus, but also into the most elevated portion that it is ne¬
cessary to ascend, in order to pass from the valley of the Terek
into that of the Aragua, situated opposite to the south.’'— Voyage
an Mont Caucase , &c. par M. J. Klaproth, vol. i. p.444.
“ The rock of the Mountain of the Cross is a reddish-brown
basaltic porphyry, very compact, mixed with amygdaloides, and
disposed in almost horizontal strata —Voyage par Klaproth,
vol. i. p. 486.
“ The most elevated ridge, or the crest of the Caucasus, is
composed of sienite, granite, and basaltic porphyry, which in
many places, is interrupted, in the direction of the north, by
argillaceous schistus, and which is frequently surmounted by
basaltic summits. The sienite is commonly of a greenish co¬
lour, or spotted with white ; sometimes darkish, even to grey;
sometimes more clear, and of a sea-green. This crest presents
a mass of continued rocks ; it is neither covered with earth nor
with plants, but with perpetual ice and snow.”
“ The mountains of middle height are covered with alpine
plants, and produce excellent pasturage and very fine hay.
This schistus, especially in the places where it is of a calcareous
nature, presents many veins, filled with spath and quartz, which
are generally the gangues of metals, and which contain, in dif¬
ferent places, galena, often very rich in silver, copper, sul¬
phureous, and arsenical pyrites, and bismuth. This schistus is
immediately followed by lime, which is of the nature of marble,
K K 2
500
rASSAGE OF THE CAUCASUS.
niences and its dangers; and she is equalled, if not
surpassed, by Sir R. Porter. In the works of these
authors the words danger, peril, chasm, abyss, pre¬
cipice, robbers, banditti, tremendous, terrible, and
such like continually appal us, yet our journey was
remarkably pleasant. Except in a few places, the
road was very good, and we scarcely ever had to
alight from our horses: indeed, in most places, we
could either trot or gallop. The disagreeables are
already detailed, and are but what travellers should
expect, until Russia has her public money better
expended by those who are entrusted with the
care of the roads, and the accommodations for
strangers.
in some places fine, in others coarser, and almost always of
a white colour. This chain, which is even enough, is neither so
high nor so steep as the schistous rock, and is generally
covered with argillaceous earth. — Saline springs are rare at
the foot of this chain, and one does not meet with the smallest
trace of metals/’—Vide Voyage aa Mont Caucase et en Georgie ,
par M. J„ Klaproth, vol.ii. pp. 275, 276. But for further min-
eralogieal information I must recommend the reader to peruse
the work itself.
“ The Caucasus is a primitive chain, containing, in many
places, columnar trapp. The older, secondary rocks, on its
northern border, are a continuation of those which form the
highest mountains on the south coast of the Crimea, where
primitive rocks are wholly wanting.”—Vide An Outline of the
Geology of Russia , by the Hon. T. H. F. Strangways, in the
Transactions of the Geological Society, (second series,) vol. i.
pt.l.p.38.
PASSAGE OF THE CAUCASUS.
501
Colonel Johnson’s statement is very correct:
“ Notwithstanding,” says he, “ the appalling anti¬
cipations that we had been led to form of the
Caucasus, we found very little difficulty in passing
those mountains. The roads are in general very
good, and practicable even for wheel carriages
throughout. There is only one range of mountains
to traverse, and the passage is by no means so ar¬
duous as that of almost all the ghauts in India,
the declivities being nothing near so steep. The
accounts given to us, had foretold not only difficult
ties but perils. If a traveller, from inability to
ride on horseback, wishes to use a travelling car¬
riage throughout the whole way, he ought to take
with him a Russian subaltern officer to assist him,
and especially to provide an escort of soldiers to
help the carriage through the most difficult places.
At some of these he must expect to walk perhaps
five hundred yards at a time ; here the difficulties
are greatest, and the tremendous precipices ad¬
joining are likely to alarm a person unused to con¬
template them, but they do not frequently occur.
On the whole, the facilities afforded by the Rus¬
sian commandants are so great, and the expenses
of travelling so moderate, that to traverse the
Caucasus ought not now to be regarded as a
formidable undertaking. On the contrary, the
stupendous grandeur of scenery, the beauty and
variety of landscapes, the novelty of manners,
k k 3
502
PASSAGE OF THE CAUCASUS.
costume, and habits of the people, observable on
this route, combine to charm the attention of"
the traveller, and to render him almost unconscious
of fatigue.”*
The traveller, however, must not be thrown
altogether off his guard. Many travellers have
spoken of the Ossetinians, who reside near the en¬
virons of Vladikavkaz, lying in wait for passen¬
gers, whom they carry off and detain as prisoners,
until they obtain a ransome for them from the
Russians. This horrid practice of extorting money
has subsisted among this people for upwards of
forty years, and they pursue it so constantly that
scarcely three months pass in which some pas¬
senger of note is not waylaid and captured by
them. “ The most dangerous spots are passes up
narrow chasms, leading to the mountains, which
are so difficult of access, that in order to pursue
and overtake these freebooters, it would require
large bodies of light troops, expressly trained for
this service/’t But it must be allowed that the
savage mountaineers, accustomed from their youth
to the ascent and descent of difficult defiles, and
clambering among the rocks, and having a perfect
knowledge of all the mountain passes and fast-
* A Journey from India to England, through Persia, Geor¬
gia, Russia, Poland, and Prussia, in the year 1817. By Lieut.-
Col Johnson, C.B., London, 1818, p.264.
f Ibid. p. 260.
PASSAGE OF THE CAUCASUS.
503
nesses, will long be able to elude their pursuers,
and to make sure their retreat.
The most formidable drawbacks on the pleasure
of passing through the Porta Caucasia arise from
causes against which the traveller can provide no
safeguard. I allude to overwhelming avalanches,
and the downfall of immense masses of precipitous
mountains, that often follow the thaw which takes
place in the superior regions of the mountains du¬
ring the heat of summer. Such avalanches, and such
masses of rock, have become suddenly detached, and
have, in a moment, been launched downwards to the
valley *, overthrowing every object which opposed
their progress, filling up ravines, and obstructing
the mountain streams and rivers, so as often to
cause them to change their course. As the reader
will remark by and by, had we passed the defile
of Dariel but two or three weeks later, we might
all have been swallowed up under the ruins, if I
may so speak, of an adjoining mountain, whose
projecting cliffs fell with an awful crash, were
broken into a thousand forms, and dammed up the
Terek.
K K 4
CHAP. XII
ROMAN BRIDGE. — CAVERNS. — SCENERY.— VIEW OF TIFLIS.—
ARRIVAL AT TIFLIS.— LODGINGS.— GENERAL YERMOLOF.—
GENERAL VILYEMINOF.— MR. GRABARITCH.— HISTORY OF
TIFLIS.—DERIVATION OF ITS NAME.— SITUATION.— POPULA¬
TION.—DIVISIONS.—APPEARANCE OF TIFLIS.— ITS STREETS.
—ITS HOUSES,—BOORDOOKS OF WINE.— CURRENT MONEY.—
THE BAZARS. — CARAVANSERAIS.-GENERAL YERMOLOF’s
HOUSE.— THE ARSENAL. — THE PUBLIC GARDENS.—THE DE¬
POT DES CARTES.—NEW SQUARE_ANECDOTE.—THE CASTLE.
— THE SUBURB AVLABARI. — ITS OLD FORTRESS. — THE
CROWN-BATHS.-—CHAMPOOING.— LUXURY OF THE BATHS.
— TEMPERATURE OF THE SPRINGS.-THEIR GENERAL NA¬
TURE MINERALOGICAL REMARKS.— SINGULAR DIVERSION.
— CORRUPTION OF MORALS.—AN ALBINOS.
After riding a couple of versts beyond Msket, we
reached a bridge across the Kooi", which is flanked
ROMAN BRIDGE.
505
by two square gently tapering towers on bold pic¬
turesque rocks. Pompey is said to have built this
bridge for the passage of his array, and the towers
for its defence; but the author of Lettres sur le
Caucase, fyc. conjectures that they were erected by
the Prince Gedevanof, who had possession of this
neighbourhood before the arrival of Pompey. It
is therefore clear that both had their origin in
remote antiquity. The bases of the arches alone
remain of their ancient structure.
This bridge and towers, with the surrounding
scenery, struck us as being extremely picturesque;
and, on that account, I have given a view of them
in the vignette on the opposite page, so as to ena¬
ble the reader to judge for himself, as authors
have pronounced very various opinions upon this
point.
“It is a strange disease of the human mind,”
says Kotzebue, “ only to admire a thing in propor¬
tion as it has a remote origin. I will venture to
assert, that without the magic of the great name
of Pompey, we should have passed the bridge
without having given it the least attention; we
examined it, however, as one of the wonders of
the world. This stone, says one, presents all
the vestiges of a high antiquity; these arches,
says another, are at the same time light and
strong; they do not now work in this manner,
cries a third. One of our companions ‘ considera
avec ravissement deux tourelles, dont le sommet
CAVERNS. —SCENERY.
506
ressemble beaucoup d nos frontages pointus de
PEstlionie, et ils s’extasia sur leur elegance .’ In a
word, every one sought in this monument a sub¬
ject of interest and admiration. As for me, if it
be necessary to say it, what I found most mar¬
vellous was a Russian grenadier on guard upon the
bridge of the Great Pompey. It is true, that if
Pompey should return to the world, this circum¬
stance would strike him most.” I think Mr.
Kotzebue, by the former part of his own opinion
shows very bad taste ; but, with the latter, I per¬
fectly coincide. I believe both Pompey, and his
officers, and his army, would cry, in the language
of surprise and contempt — What, Scythians in the
warm climate of Asia! return to the barbarous
regions of the north ! the Caucasus is your natural
barrier!
After crossing the bridge, the road returns along
the opposite bank of the Koor, making, on the whole,
a detour of about four versts to pass this river.
We were astonished to find numerous caverns like
those in many parts of the Krimea, hewn out of the
solid rock, and some of them at a considerable
height in its perpendicular face. They served as a
place of retreat to the inhabitants of Msket, when
they were attacked by their enemies.
Our route led along the banks of the Koor for a
short distance, and then a plain opened before us,
with Tiffis at its extremity. We now emerged
from among the mountains, and bade adieu to
VIEW OF TIFLIS.-ARRIVAL AT TIFLIS. 507
charming valleys, wooded hills, and green pastures,
I had almost said to vegetation. The transition
from delightful to dreary scenes, is so sudden as to
produce painful emotions. On both sides the
view was now bounded by naked sterile hills at
some distance. The grass was burned up, and the
plain had a gloomy appearance, which gradually
increased as we approached Tiflis. The corn was
already reaped, and the fields only presented
stubble. We saw this town at that time, to great
disadvantage. Before the wet season has withered
every blade of grass, or after the country has
recovered its effects, it must have a more invit¬
ing appearance. Still, however, I am certain that
I should never have agreed with the fair author of
“ Lettres sur le Caucase, cjyc.” that where the plain
gradually contracts into a narrow valley, at the ex¬
tremity of which is Tiflis, “ the scene is beautiful,
particularly when viewing the town, with its nume¬
rous towers and churches, of every colour, glitter¬
ing in the sun.”
We crossed a small stream, by a stone bridge,
and soon reached the barrier of the town, upon
the top of a hill, where we left our order for post-
horses, which also served as a kind of'passport. A
little farther on we gave in our certificate of health
from the captain of Anannoor, to the chief of the
quarantine of Tiflis. We now passed into the
town, but had much difficulty in finding lodgings.
An Englishman made himself known to us, and
508
LODGINGS.— GENERAL YERMOLOF.
conducted us to an inn kept by a German, who
gives good dinners, but has no apartments for tra¬
vellers. During our repast, two rooms were found
at an Armenian’s of the name of Piranof.
On the following morning, the commandant
called upon us to offer a lodging, which we readily
accepted; but we afterwards regretted having done
so. We got excellent rooms in the house of a
Russian major, where we were most unwelcome
intruders, and where we suffered great inconveni¬
ence from the difficulty of procuring the commonest
article of necessity. One can scarcely be surprised
at their not having shown greater eagerness to serve
us. What would an English major think of having
four foreigners, of whom he knew nothing, sent to
lodge at his house, for as many days as they chose,
perhaps without any warning, except his general’s
compliments ?
When we were at Georgievsk, we were in¬
formed that General Yennolofj commander-in¬
chief of the forces in Georgia, was gone into the
mountains to superintend the erection of some
fortresses along their base, so as more effectually
to restrain the ferocious tribes of the Caucasus:
and we had despatched our letters to him by post,
mentioning the time we should arrive at Tiflis.
One of the aides-de-camp of General Vilyeminof,
the second in command, waited upon us with a
very polite letter from General Yermolof, in which,
among other things, was his advice, as to the part of
GENERAL VILYEM1N0F.— MR. GRABARITCH. 509
Georgia, we should visit during our stay. General
Vilyemfnof) at the same time, invited us to dinner,
through his aide-de-camp, at the early hour of one
o’clock, which we found to be the usual dinner-hour
ofpplite society, all of whom take a siesta after their
nearly mid-day repast. We dined with a number
of officers, and drank some excellent Georgian
wine. The general was remarkably hospitable,
both on this occasion and during our stay in Tiffis.
We employed the afternoon in making visits, walk¬
ing in the public gardens, examining the baths, &c.
and in the evening, the commandant conducted us
to his house to supper, and was extremely civil.
We found Mr. Grabaritch (for that was his name)
a very singular man. He is a Hungarian by birth,
but, having been long in the service of Russia, he
spoke the language of that country pretty well.
He is one of the most restless persons I ever saw;
standing or sitting, his body and limbs were con¬
tinually changing their position. He speaks a little
French, German, Latin, and Italian jargon. He
plays on the flute, the flageolet, the guitar, and the
piano-forte ; but on none of them well. He pretends
to have discovered three notes lower than the
usual vocal scale; but they more resembled the
low, hoarse, grunts of a pig, than the sounds of
the human voice. His playing and singing partook
of the restlessness of his corporeal system : he be¬
gan many tunes, and finished none; and all his
510
HISTORY OF TIFLIS.
instruments, as well as liis voice, were in requisi¬
tion within the space of a few minutes.
The present political situation of Tiflfs adds a
degree of interest to the account of this town,
which it did not formerly possess. Some pretend
to have traced its foundation to the year 409, and
attribute it to Vachtang, a powerful and victorious
sovereign, who at that epoch vanquished all the
countries between the Euxine and the Caspian
Seas. It was considerably augmented and embel¬
lished after his reign, and became one of the most
remarkable towns of the north of Asia. The Tsar
David, as hereafter mentioned, wished to render it
an abode for the sciences; but it does not appear
that either his efforts, or those of any of his suc¬
cessors, were very fortunate. Chardin gives an
interesting account of Tiflis, accompanied with a
general view, which conveys an excellent idea of the
place as it was 150 years ago. It was then a town
of considerable size, but of no very imposing ap¬
pearance. In the time of the Tsar Heraclius, Tiflis
contained 4000 houses, and 20,000 inhabitants.*
Tiflis is now the capital of the Russian govern¬
ment or province of Georgia, and was formerly
the capital of the kingdom of the same name, and
the residence of the kings of Kartalinia. It is
situated in a narrow valley upon the Koor, and be-
* Letters from the Caucasus, p. 133.
ITS NAME.-SITUATION.—POPULATION.
511
tween the right bank of the river and an elevated
mountain, which, as it were, overhangs it, and
upon which the citadel is placed. Its true name
is said to be Tphilissi, or Tphilis-kalaki, i. e . warm
town ; an appellation which it received on account
of its warm springs. Its geographical position has
been variously stated. According to Brookes’s
Gazetteer, it lies under 44° 56' E. Long, and 44°
40' N. Lat.; but agreeably to an observation of
Capt. Monteith, its real latitude is 41° 43'. It is
distant 2627 versts, or about 1751 miles, from Pe-
tersburgh, and 1900, or 1207 miles, from Moscow.
The town of Tiflis in 1812 was said to be only
the shade of Tiflis, as described by Chardin in
1673. Scarcely was a third of it rebuilt, after its
destruction by Aga-Mahommed in 1795. Its in¬
habitants are Georgians, Armenians, Mingrelians,
Persians, Tartars, Lesghees, &c. According to
Klaproth, in 1812, the population, independently of
the Russian employes and the garrison, amounted to
18,000; one half of whom were Armenians. By
the accounts of others, if we include the persons
employed by the Russian government, and the gar¬
rison, the total population of Tiflis may be estimated
at about 20,000 souls. In 1822, it was roundly stated
at 30,000, exclusive of the military; but though this
statement was obtained from high authority, I re¬
gard it as an exaggeration. Every individual in
the service knowing General Yermolof’s favourite
scheme of restoring Tiflis to its flourishing state.
512
PO PUL ATION. DI VISIONS.
of rendering it an European town in its appear¬
ance, and of encouraging its commerce, seems
inclined to overrate its prosperity. If its popula¬
tion amount to 20,000 souls, besides the military,
as a more candid individual said, it is, most pro¬
bably, the utmost extent.
Klaproth received the following account ‘from
the police of Tiflis: There were in this town, in
1812, 1 Georgian patriarch ( Katholikos ); 1 Geor¬
gian metropolitan ; 55 Georgian priests; 1 Greek
archirei; 3 Greek archimandrites; 1 Armenian
archbishop; 73 Armenian priests: 8 Armenian
archireis; 4 Catholic priests (peres) ; 1 Tartar
effendi; 160 Georgian princes; 216 gentlemen;
1983 burgesses; 251 peasants; 426 slaves, servants
of gentlemen; and 3684 maisons particulieres. No
doubt, three fourths of the latter were no more
than very mean huts.
Tiflis is surrounded by a wall of a triangular
form, and has six gates (or rather the names of
former gates) which are still used. It is divided
into three parts : 1st, Tiflis, properly so called, or
the ancient town, in which are the warm baths,
veiy small, and on the east of the Koor ; 2d, Kala,
or the fortress, situated to the north of the pre¬
ceding, on the west of that river, and which is
more populous; and 3d, the suburb Isni, or Av-
labari, which is separated from the other divisions
by the Koor, but is connected with them by the
only bridge across this river in the city. Not
APPEARANCE OF TIFLIS.
513
very long ago, there were at Tiflis nearly twenty
churches of the Greek religion ; fifteen Armenian
churches ; and one church of the Roman Catholic
faith, administered by Italian capuchins. The
Persians have also a mosque.
The Cathedral is very ancient, of fine architecture,
and of considerable size. It is called the church of
Zion, and was repaired by orders of Prince Tchit-
zianof, who commanded the Russian army in Geor¬
gia for a number of years. Some of the other
churches resemble those at Ananoor and Msket.
I agree with Sir R. K. Porter, that Tiflis will
give us very incorrect ideas of" Asiatic grandeur.
This author well remarks, “ That the town itself
stands at the foot of a line of dark and barren hills,
whose high and caverned sides gloomily overshadow
it. Every house, every building within its walls,
seems to share the dismal hue of the surrounding
heights; for a deep blackness rests on all. The
hoary battlements above, and the still majestic
towers of the ancient citadel; the spires of Chris¬
tian churches, and other marks of European resid¬
ents ; even their testimonies of past grandeur, and
present consequence; and, what is more, present
Christian brotherhood; could not, for some time,
erase the horrible dungeon impression of Asiatic
dirt and barbarism, received at first view of the
town.”
We entered Tifhs at the worst season of the year,
and experienced very disagreeable sensations, and
VOL. I. L L
514
STREETS AND HOUSES OF TIFLIS.
considerable disappointment. A miserable gloomy
town, by the side of a muddy river, surrounded by
bleak sterile hills and parched corn fields, in sultry
weather, and only enlivened by a few exotic green
trees, was not likely to produce any but melan¬
choly impressions, and the desire of a short resid¬
ence. The climate, though often fine, is unhealthy ;
and the heat so insupportable, that the inhabitants
are glad to withdraw themselves to the hills at
twenty or thirty versts’ distance. During our abode
at Tiflis the temperature never exceeded 91° F.;
but the air was indescribably sultry. At times,
however, the thermometer, in the shade, rises to
38° R. = 118° F.
The streets, or rather I should say, the lanes of
Tiflis, are, for the most part, very narrow, and ir¬
regular beyond description. Except in those places
which have been rebuilt in the European style,
there is not one which is straight. The houses, as
well as their enclosing walls, are built of broad flat
bricks, often mixed with common stones, or form¬
ing alternate layers with them, and bound together
with mud mixed with a little lime. Except in the
best houses, there are no glazed windows. Com¬
mon paper and oiled paper are here used as a sub¬
stitute for glass, which is excessively dear, because
there are no glass manufactories in Georgia. The
doors opening into the courts, often answer the
purpose of windows. The greatest part of the town
is excessively nasty. The Koor is dirty, and often
BOORDOOKS OF WINE.
51.5
offensive ; the public markets are dirty; many of
the baths are filthy; and, in fact, in spite of all
the Russian improvements, Tiflis seemed one of
the meanest and most disagreeable towns I ever
saw; but an excessively busy place.
In passing through the streets of Tiflis, the
apparently stuffed skins of buffaloes, hogs, and
goats, standing upon stumps, surprised us, and we
were amused at seeing the fine wine of Kachetia
drawn off’ from such receptacles. The natives
keep the wine in enormous earthen jars, under the
earth, in this district; but for its transport these
skins are employed. Their hairy sides are co¬
vered with a coating of naphtha, and then turned
inside out. This communicates a disagreeable
flavour and taste to the wine, to which the Geor¬
gians are accustomed, but which is highly disagree¬
able to strangers. These prepared skins are called
boordooks. Barrels are not used at all, and few
bottles : the latter cost six or eight times the price
of the wine. General Hofen told us he had often
thought of establishing a bottle manufactory near
Tiflis, but that they could not find good sand for
the purpose. Wine is sold here by the tunga, a
measure of about seven good-sized bottles. A
tunga of common wine of Kachetia, is sold at sixty
or eighty kopeeks, and the best sorts at 100 or
120 kopeeks ; L e. about seven bottles are sold at
from 6d. to Is., or for a penny, and twopence, per
bottle. It is not therefore surprising that the
516 CURRENT MONEY.—THE BAZARS.
people as regularly drink wine as the English do
porter. I mention the prices in kopeeks as being
better known than the abazes of the country, four
of which are about equal to a silver rouble. At
our visit gold and silver, especially ducats, formed
the chief circulating medium. The native coins
have the Persian names of double abazes, abazes, and
half abazes *
Russian copper money, and silver and paper,
were also plentiful at Tifhs. The paper money was
exchanged with a premium of eight, and even nine
roubles, upon the hundred; so that it is higher than
at Moscow, where I never knew it exceed eight
roubles.
The Bazars, though of late much improved, yet
have no imposing appearance. The shops are ar¬
ranged along a covered alley, which is a complete
thoroughfare. Some of them are very dark, and
all of them gloomy, but they are enlivened by
the bustle and noise of crowds of people. The
same kind of shops are mostly found together, as
grocers, cap-makers, taylors, ironmongers, armour¬
ers, silversmiths, &c. In the fruit shops wc found
abundance of apricots, cherries, and mulberries
of inferior quality, and different kinds of salad.
The season was yet too early for the fine fruit of
the climate ; and during our stay at Tifhs we never
saw any upon the tables of the nobility. Every
* Some write these Persian words abassees, &c.
THE CARAVANSERAIS.
517
kind of merchandise and provisions is to be found
here, as well the production of the country, as of
Persia and Russia. We saw carpets, silks, shawls,
and other articles, in the shops, which are not sold
cheap in comparison with the prices in Russia.
Immense quantities of Russian and German prints,
handkerchiefs, besides cotton cloth, &c. of Russian
manufacture, were every where exposed for sale.
We had expected to have found the Caravanse¬
rais much more imposing edifices, and better sup¬
plied with merchandise from eastern countries, than
was the case. There are two of them at Tiflis, the
one for the Turks, and the other for the Persians.
They are square buildings, notunlike some prisons.
They surround squares, with a double row of
piazzas, one above the other, and are divided
into numerous small unfurnished apartments, in
which these foreigners pile up their merchandise,
and reside, In the day they sit cross-legged upon
the floor, smoking their pipes, or assembled in small
parties for the same purpose, till a visitor enters.
In the night they make their beds upon wadded
covers, and thus they pass their time till they have
finished their affairs, when they begin a new journey.
Two large ranges of new shops, or Caravanserais,
have been lately erected near YermoloPs palace.
Few of them were occupied, and, indeed, they
were not all finished, in 1822. We were rather sur¬
prised at finding an Englishman, who had just com¬
menced business in one of them. Rut where can
l l 3
518 GENERAL YERMOLOF’S HOUSE, ARSENAL, &C.
we go without meeting with our countrymen ?
This part of the town assumes an European aspect,
but it still includes hundreds of Asiatic hovels,
like terraces, in the sides of the hills, which being
extremely low, flat-roofed, and mean, they are in
many places scarcely visible until we are close upon
them.
About the middle of Tiflis another irregular
square is formed by the civil governor’s house, the
police-office which was erected in 1820, the Prav-
leniye or the administration, and other edifices,
which belong to the crown.
The part of the town, which is far the best, is
near General Yermolof’s house, a structure which,
though inferior to many private edifices in Peters-
burgh and Moscow, both in size and in style, yet is
thought extraordinary at Tiflis. Adjoining to it is
the Arsenal, and opposite it the Corps de Guard.
On one side is the public garden, which is of con¬
siderable size, and pretty well laid out. It contains
a grotto, tea-rooms, and shaded walks and avenues,
chiefly formed by vines. A pond, with jets d’eau,
runs along its top, and the views from hence are
extensive, and, in spring, are said to be pleasant.
Behind it the hills rise rapidly, and are scattered
with numerous churches.
The Depot de Cartes is near it, and is under
the care of Colonel Kotzebue, son of Kotzebue the
famous dramatic writer, and author of “ Voyage
en Perse,” who accompanied us to see it. It con-
NEW SQUARE.—ANECDOTE. 519
tained but few maps, and not one of the whole
Russian empire. Here they are now preparing an
immense map of Georgia, which is to extend to
forty or forty-eight sheets, part of which we saw.
It will be a work of several years* labour.
Opposite to General Yermolof’s palace, but much
nearer the river, there is a square of new edifices,
in one of which we lodged. Here General Modatof,
a Georgian prince in the Russian service, and a
number of officers, have erected houses. Accord¬
ing to Kotzebue this square was formerly a ceme¬
tery, and no great ceremony seems to have been
observed in removing the tombs of the dead, so
dear even to the most savage nations. But des¬
potic power pays little regard to such ancient pre¬
judices. These are Kotzebue’s words:—
“ There existed, in the centre of the town, an
ancient cemetery, much revered on account of its
monuments of the dead ; but it occupied too much
space and was surrounded by the most filthy andmost
disgusting streets. General Yermolof caused the
enclosing walls to be pulled down, and the earth to
be levelled, after having given the sepulchral stones
to the families to whom they belonged. The
surrounding houses were ornamented with fine
fa$ades.” *
Tiflis is much indebted to General Yermolof for
his improvements. He wishes it to become the
* Voyage en Perse, p. 48.
L L t
520
THE CASTLE OF TIFLIS.
grand entrepot between the southern and eastern
countries of the world and Russia, and is extremely
desirous that it should be made a great commercial
town On these accounts, the ranges of shops,
already noticed, were built, and the bazars re¬
paired. The soldiers, aware of General Yermolof’s
desire, in passing through the streets and lanes,
each pulls out a brick or two from the walls
of the old houses, so as to accelerate their fall.
This practice demonstrates, 1st, that the dwellings
of the Georgians are not very firmly built; and,
2dly, that the wish is most ardent to replace the
present by modern buildings.
There is an hospital, and a botanic garden, upon
the Koor, about two miles below Tiflis ; but, as we
did not visit them, I cannot give any account of
their present state.
The Castle, or Citadel, was built by the Turks,
in 1576, when they became masters of Tiflis and of
the surrounding country, after many victories
gained under the command of the famous Mustapha
Pacha, generalissimo of the troops of Soliman. Its
situation is on a high and insulated hill, and its
strong walls and towers must have rendered it a
place of great strength .—See 1 3th Vignette. It is
now in ruins; the ascent to which is very difficult.
We were stopped, when half way up, by a sentinel,
whose objections to our proceeding farther were
overcome by a trifle for vodtki. From the castle
is obtained an excellent bird’s-eye view of Tiflis
AVLABARI.-OLD FORTRESS.
521
mid its vicinity. The flat-roofed houses, in some
places, arranged along the declivity of the rock,
exactly resemble the steps of an immense stair,
which might serve for some of the giants of fable.
Their roofs were covered with people working,
loitering, or amusing themselves.
In order to make a visit to the suburb of Avla-
bari, we crossed the Koor by a wooden bridge, at
the side of which is the only mosque now in the
town. It is intended soon to replace this bridge
by one 5f stone. After passing it, a rude represent¬
ation of the Holy Supper, cut out of the solid rock,
and in an alcove ornamented with pillars, attracted
notice. Great reverence is paid to this rude work¬
manship, the origin of which I could not learn.
Ascending the hill, we reached an old fortress,
which stands upon a bold rock; it was undergoing
a thorough repair, preparatory to its becoming the
chief prison of Georgia. We were told that it is
the design of General Yermolof to make Tiflis a
completely European town, and to allow this suburb
only to retain its Asiatic character. In the mean¬
time it exhibits nothing but meanness and wretch¬
edness.
We afterwards made a visit to the Crown-Baths.
On entering the hall we remarked a large room on
the left, in which the Georgians were playing at
billiards. We were shown into a similar apartment
on the right, with an alcove on one side, and a cur¬
tain drawn in front of it, between two columns. In
522
THE CROWN-BATHS.
the alcove we found some chairs and a low table,
or rather bench, covered with a linen sheet, where
the natives undz'ess and deposit their clothes.
Having desired the attendants to treat us, in every
respect, as they did the Georgians, they took off
our clothes, and, after fastening a linen girdle
upon each of us, they led us to the bath-rooms,
which are large and vaulted. In the centre of their
arched roofs are apertures for the admission of
air. The baths are of an oblong square form, and
from 5 to 5i feet in depth. They are cut out of
the rock, and are filled by means of pipes fixed
above them, and through which the warm sulphur¬
ated fountains continually flow. Each bath is
provided with two large boards, raised about four
inches from the floor, so as to accommodate two
persons at the same time. I was desired to de¬
scend into the bath by means of a stair, which
being done, I was led out, and laid upon one of
the boards mentioned, while my head rested upon
a little wooden pillow. The attendant having
filled a bucket with water from the bath, and hav¬
ing put on his right hand a glove without fingers
and made of goat’s hair, washed and scrubbed over
the whole body. This process lasted about a
quarter of an hour. A number of tubfuls of warm
water were then dashed over me. He next took
a bag, which was filled with soap-suds, and emp¬
tied it on different parts of the body, while he con¬
tinued a gentle friction with one hand; a second
CHAMPOOING.—LUXURY OF THE BATHS. 523
operation, which did not terminate in less than
twenty minutes. The ablutions with warm water
being again repeated, he made signs for me to
enter the bath, and to remain as long as I chose.
As in Persia, Turkey, Egypt, and India, the at¬
tendants employ pressing, squeezing, and knead¬
ing, as it were, the surface of the body; an operation
well known under the appellation champooing.
Another part of the operation consists in cracking
all the joints, and then standing on, and even
walking over, the body; but to neither of these did
I submit. One of our party had his joints cracked;
but to the walking operation, he also demurred.
Such a luxurious bath I never before enjoyed;
and now I can easily conceive how the natives of
this country should remain in it hours, nay, Avhole
days. “ The Georgians of rank,” says Madame
Freyganch, “ particularly the ladies, devote a whole
day in every week to the baths; and not unfre-
quently pass a night in them. Reclining in luxu¬
rious ease upon the couches, they dye their hair
and nails ; and the old ladies have hair as black as
ebony, from constantly staining it. Here also they
paint their faces red and white ; torturing them¬
selves to make the eye-brows join, which is ab¬
solutely essential in a Georgian beauty. The day
thus employed is with them one of the greatest
importance, although attended with pain, as well
as pleasure. After going through the ceremonies
of these caverns, an hour’s repose and a plate of
524 TEMPERATURE OF THE SPRINGS.
fruit are very acceptable, even to Europeans; and,
although the situation of these baths is not very
inviting, I have contracted a taste for them, at the
risk of being looked upon as a Georgian.”* The
crown-baths, which, as I have said, are well ar¬
ranged, were not in existence when the above was
written.
Besides the crown-baths, there are other six baths
in the same neighbourhood; four for males, and
two for females. One of the female baths was in
the most filthy condition. Innumerable naked
women were busy washing clothes in it; while
others were reposing in the empty baths, and al¬
lowing the water from the fountains to run over
their bodies. But, for a more particular description
of such scenes, I recommend the reader to peruse
Sir R. K. Porter’s account of the “ Georgian Ve-
nuses” in the baths of Tiflis.
Of all the warm springs at the baths, I found
the temperature to vary from 100° to 112° Fall.;
indeed, the only one which reached 112® was in
the crown-baths. Other writers speak of having
found springs, both of a lower and of a considerably
higher temperature, than I have stated; and it seems
very probable, that the temperature may vary, at
different times, from changes in the interior of the
mountains, of which we know nothing beyond
conjecture. The author of “ Letters from the
* Letters from the Caucasus, p. 119 .
NATURE OF THE SPRINGS.
525
Caucasus” speaks of baths at 50° of R., equal to
144° F.; but I think she must be mistaken, unless
they were warmed artificially.
The distinguishing characters of all the baths at
Tiflis is their strong impregnation with sulphu¬
retted hydrogen gas, and their possessing a tem¬
perature from 100° to 112° Farenheit.*
The Crown-Baths are situated in a plain edifice,
and are kept in good order. They yield an annual
revenue of 5000 silver roubles, nearly equal to
20,000 paper roubles of the present day, or
883/. 65. 8d. sterling: no small sum in Georgia.
The inhabitants enjoy the crown-baths, by paying
about Or/, or upwards ; and the common baths do
not cost more than 3d. or 4>d.
Besides the baths, the chief pleasure the Georgi¬
ans allow their wives, is to take the air, on Sundays
and festivals, upon the tops of their houses, where
they sometimes dance to the sound of the tarn-
* The mountains in the neighbourhood of Tiflis, which Kla¬
proth regards as belonging ct une branche avancd of the chain of
Pampak, separated from the Caucasus by the Koor, are com¬
posed de marne, de schiste calcaire marneux et degres : their base
is of brown-grey argillaceous schistus. In the cavities of the
marl, one often meet with Jilons de ccdcaire jibreux ct du
J 'pidtre . Pyrites is found in the schiste tabidaire , and it is often
changed into true aluminous schistus. The soil around Tiflis
is argillaceous, and presents, in many places, a mixture of cal¬
careous sand, which contains much galet du Kour. In the
valley, which is watered by the Tsakvissi, one sees hornstone
covered with a green earth, hard and similar to jasper. Vide
Voyage au Mont Caucase> &c. par Klaproth, vol. ii. p.9.
526 SINGULAR DIVERSION. —CORRUPTION OF MORALS.
barine. But Kotzebue informs us, that they were
also permitted to be spectators of a very singular
species of diversion at Tiflfs. At certain solemn
festivals, the whole population left this town, and
divided themselves into two bands of warriors, who
made a kind of mock fight. Both sides demonstrated
an incredible obstinacy, until one of the parties
was obliged to abandon its position. They threw
volleys of stones, then beat each other with sticks,
or with wooden sabres. The little children, even,
were employed in throwing stones by the op¬
posing parties. Many persons were bruised and
and lamed, and some even lost their lives. It was
made a point of honour not to complain of acci¬
dents ; and even mothers were witnesses of their
sons’ misfortunes with the resignation of Spartan
women. This kind of general battle was called
Tamascha, and princes took a share in it; but its
continuation was prohibited by General Yermolof.
The Russian soldiers have been much blamed
for corrupting the morals of the Georgian females,
especially those of the lower ranks. They seem
also to have made them, at times, the sport of their
amusement. “ When a female,” says Kotzebue,
“ meets one or more Russians in the streets, and
the passage is too narrow to admit her changing her
direction, she turns her face toward the wall, until
these formidable men have passed. The young
officers sometimes amuse themselves in mocking
this custom dictated by shame : they arrange them-
AN ALBINOS.
527
selves before the wall, and cover their faces with a
white handkerchief, et font, avec la pauvre femme,
assaut de modestie, jusqu’d ce que d’un cote on de
Vautre on se lasse, soit de la rigeur de la coutume,
soil de plaisanterie, et Von fnit par se souhaiter, de
part et d'autre, un bon voyage.” *
Among the objects of curiosity at Tiflis, the
commandant one day ordered an Albinos to be
brought to our quarters. He was a boy about thir¬
teen years of age, the son of a Mingrelian, who is
a Colonel in the Russian service. He had yellowish-
white hair. His features were pleasant, and his com¬
plexion was fair. I remarked a white line round the
pupils of his eyes, which were very small, and alto¬
gether insensible to different degrees of light. The
whole iris was of a purplish colour, and this was pe¬
culiarly remarkable after causing the boy to shut his
eyelids, with his face to the wall, and turning him
suddenly round to the light. He enjoyed good
health, and was intelligent.
* Voyage en Perse par Maurice de Kotzebue, p. 45.
END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.
London :
Printed by A. & R. Spottiswoode*
New- Street- Square,
TRAVELS
JN
RUSSIA,
THE KRIMEA, THE CAUCASUS,
AND
GEORGIA.
By ROBERT LYALL, M.D. F.L.S.
MEMBER OF THE ROYAL ASIATIC SOCIETY OF LONDON ; OF TIIE WERNERIAN
NATURAL HISTORY SOCIETY OK EDINBURGH;
CORRESPONDING MEMBER OF THF. LITERARY AND PHILOSOPHICAL SOCIETY, AND OF
THE NATURAL HISTORY SOCIETY, OF MANCHESTER;
MEMBER OF THE IMPERIAL SOCIETIES OF AGRICULTURE AND NATURAL HISTORY,
AND OF THE PHYSICO-MEDICAL SOCIETY, AT MOSCOW ;
&C. &C. &C.
IX TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.
LONDON:
PRINTED FOR T. CADELL, IN THE STRAND;
AND W. BLACKWOOD, EDINBURGH.
1825.
]>K
as
MS'
V. 2
\
\f
CONTENTS
OF
THE SECOND VOLUME.
Page
CHAPTER XIII.
Foundation of Tiflis
uncertain . 1
Connection of Tiflis with
Georgia. 2
History of Georgia. 3
Connection of Georgia
with Russia. 8
Churches in Georgia. 9
Toleration in Georgia... ib.
Productions of Georgia... ib.
Towns in Georgia. 10
Population of Georgia ... ib.
Revenues of Georgia... ib.
Administration of Geor¬
gia . 11
Medical Uprdva . 12
Character and Conduct
of the Georgians. ib.
Bribery and Corruption
in Georgia. 17
A
Page
Uncertainty of Property
in Georgia. 17
Attacks of the Lesghees 18
Policy of Russia. 19
Probable Improvement of
the Georgians.. 20
Departure from Tiflis... ib.
The Russians Mushroom-
Eaters. 21
The Road to Muchrovan ib.
Description of Muchrovan 22
The River Yora. 21
The Ruins of a Convent ib.
Gambora. ib.
The Hill of Gambora. 25
Description of Telav. 26
The Vale of Telav. 28
Departure from Telav,,, ib.
The River Alasan. 29
Yeniseli. ib.
A Georgian Dinner. 30
Wine of Kachetia. 31
3
Vi
CONTENTS.
Page
Prince Georgiadtsof... 31
Russian Camp. 32
Kvarelli. ib*
CHAP. XIV.
Departure from Kvarelli 34
Gremi Castle and Church 35
Shaekriani.— Laliskuri 36
Georgian Females. 37
The Tushintsi. ib.
Alvan.—Alaverdi. 38
Return to Telav and
Muehrovan . 39
A Russian Festival. ib.
Return to Tiflis. TO
An Avalanche. ib.
Guldenstaedt’s Travels 41
The Caucasus a fine
Field fora Traveller’s
Researches . 42
The Military Lines of
Defence in the Cau¬
casus . 46
Inhuman Conduct to¬
ward the Mountain¬
eers. 48
New Fortresses in the
Caucasus. 51
Mortality of the Geor¬
gian Army . 52
Colonisation in Georgia 53
Russian Policy. ib.
Inroad of the Mountain¬
eers . 54
Army of the Caucasus
and Georgia.. ib.
Russian Aggrandisement
and Plans. 55
State of Persia. 5S
Probable Conduct of
Russia. 60
Invasion of India by
Russia. 61
Sir R. Wilson’s Opinion
on this subject. 62
Page
Buonaparte’s Opinion... 62
Opinions of Others. 63
Conquest of Turkey by
the Russians. 71
Buonaparte’s Opinion on
this point . ib.
Popularity of such a
Conquest in Russia... 72
The Grand Duke Con¬
stantine. 73
The Royal Family of
Georgia. 74
Alexander Mirza, Here¬
ditary Prince of Geor¬
gia. 75
CHAP. XV.
Biographical Notice of
General Yermolof.. 78
His Administration of
Georgia. 82
His Conduct to the Cau¬
casians. 83
Journal of his Embassy
to Persia. 85
Its Preface. 87
Mr. Freyganeh’s Mission
to Persia. 89
Russian Policy. 90
Abool Hassan Khan. ib.
His Opinion of the Rus¬
sians . ib.
Persian Presents to the
Emperor Alexander 91
General Yermolof's De¬
parture from Tiflis ... 92
His Advance to Shirpi-
lou. ib.
Georgian Villages. 93
Talin. ib.
The Serdar of Erivan... 94
Eitchmeadzin. ib.
Erivan. 95
I Nahitchivan. 99
CONTENTS.
vii
Page
General Yermolofs Re¬
veries. 99
Mis Entrance into Ta-
breez. 101
Persian Court Ceremo¬
nies. ib.
Extraordinary Recep¬
tion of the Russian
Embassy. 105
Review of Persian Troops 107
General Yermolofs Visit
to Abbas Mirza. 108
Court Deception. 109
General Yermolofs Self-
Importance.. 110
Character of Mirza Be-
zoork.‘. Ill
Abbas Mirza Hereditary
Prince of Persia. 113
The Persian Government 114
Udjani. ib.
The Kyme-MakaunFs
Son. 116
Colonel Johnson. 117
Anecdote. —Avanloog 118
Poisonous Bugs of
Miana . 119
Fine Bridges. 123
Remarks on Persia. ib.
Nikpe.— Samanarchie... 124
Mirza Abdool Wehab... 125
Discussions between the
Persian Minister and
General Yermolof.. 126
CHAP. XVI.
Arrival of the King of
Persia at Sultania. 131
His Attention to the
Russian Embassy. 133
His Neglect of the Eng¬
lish . 134
The Palace oftheShach ib.
Preparations for the
Presentation of the
Presents. 135
A
The Grand Vizier Mirza
Slieffi. 136
The Tyrant Aga Maho¬
med. 137
Anecdotes. 138
Property of Mirza Sheffi 139
Courtier Conduct of Ge¬
neral Yermolof.. 140
Presents of Alexander
to the Shach. 141
Presentation of the Rus¬
sian Embassy. 142
The King of Persia’s
gracious Conduct. 143
Presentation of the Pre¬
sents. 144
Their Transport to Te¬
heran. 145
The Persian Astrologers 146
General Yermolofs Self-
Complacency. ib.
Want of Faith in the
Persians. 147
The Emperor Alexan¬
der’s determination
to retain the Persian
Provinces. ib.
Useless Negociations ... 148
The Shach's Consent to
the Terms of Russia ib.
Reconciliation of the
Kyme-Makaum and
General Yermolof... 149
Yermolofs Curious Fes¬
tival. 150
Presents refused by
General Yermolof.. 151
Presents accepted by
an English Ambassa¬
dor. 152
Treaty of Peace signed
between Persia and
Russia. ib.
Farewell Audience of
the Shach. 153
Usual Ceremonies at the
Court of Persia. ib.
4
Vlll
CONTENTS,
Page
Return of the Russian
Embassy to Tabreez 154
Tyrannical Conduct of
General Yermolof ... 155
Russian Embassy reaches
Tiflis. ib.
Views of Tiflis. 156
German Colonies in
Georgia. ib.
General Appearance of
Kachetia. 157
Collection of Taxes in
Georgia. 158
Sultry Heat at Tiflis ... 159
Departure from Tiflis... ib.
CHAP. XVII.
Arrival at Khartiskarst 160
Departure from Khar¬
tiskarst. ib.
The Castle of Ananoor 161
Thunder-storm at Pas-
sananoor. 162
Departure from Passan-
anoor. ib.
Effects of a Thunder¬
storm . ib.
Kashaur.— Kobi. 163
Prisoners on their route
to Siberia. ib.
Kasbck. 164
Romantic Account by
Sir R. K. Porter. ib.
Anonymous Critique of
the Knight's Travels 165
Author’s Opinion of
them. 166
Divisions of the Moun¬
tain Tribes of the Cau¬
casus. ib.
Works respecting them 167
Account of the Osseti-
nians. 169
Tlieir Robbery. 171
Page
Their Hospitality. 172
Their Revenge of Blood
for Blood. 173
Their Polygamy.—Their
Marriages. 174
Their Religion. ib.
Tlieir Oaths. 175
Death of their Relations ib.
Their Sepulchres. 176
Sir R. K. Porter’s Ac¬
count of this Tribe... ib.
CHAP. XVIII.
Fortresses of the Cauca¬
sus. 179
Warlike Appearance of
the Inhabitants. 180
Dariel. 181
Fall of a Rock into the
T^rek. ib.
New Road. ib.
Mountain Pass.—Lars 182
Vladikavkaz. ib.
Care of Travellers. 183
Colonel Skvartsof. ib.
General Del Pozzo. 184
Departure from Vladi¬
kavkaz. ib.
Elizabeth Redoubt. —
Adventure. 185
Constantine Redoubt... 186
Ferry of the Terek. 187
Mozdok. ib.
Accident. 188
Georgievsk. — Reshpa-
ghir. ib.
Stavropole. 189
Quarantine of Srednoyc-
Yegorlltskoye.. ib.
Description of it. 191
Our Release. 192
Honourable and Disho¬
nourable Conduct. ib.
Departure from Sred-
noye-Yegorlitskoye... ib.
CONTENTS.
IX
Page
Nijni-Yegorlitskoye. 193
The Don. — Aksai. ib.
Novo-Teherkask. 194*
Visit to General Ilovai-
skii . ib.
Road to Staro-Tcher¬
kask. 195
History and Situation of
this Town. 196
Its former Population... 197
Staro-Tcherkask absurd¬
ly compared to Ve¬
nice . ib.
Present State of Staro-
Tcherkask. 198
Its Cathedral and Inun¬
dations . ib.
Its Decline. ib.
Return to Novo-Tcher-
kask. 199
Dinner at General Ilo-
vaiskiis. ib.
Colonel Nozikomof. ib.
The Upravleniye . 200
Foundation of Novo-
Tcherkask. ib.
Platofs Plan of this
Town. 201
Its Situation injudicious ib.
Description of Novo-
Tcherkask. 202
Its Population. ib.
Its Public Buildings. 203
Remarks on the Kozaks ib.
Their Military Charac¬
ter. 205
CHAP. XIX.
Fame of Platof.. 208
Ilis Life and Combats 209
Mr. Smirnoi’s Work. 210
Platof’s Opinions. 211
General Character of
Platof.. ib.
Page
Account of Platof s Birth 213
Platofs Education . 214
His Genius. — His A-
musements. 215
Platof enters the Mili¬
tary Service. 216
His Departure for the
Krimea. 219
His Advancement. ib.
His Bravery on the Ka-
lalach. 220
Platof sent against Pu-
gatchofand the Moun¬
tain Tribes. 222
He distinguishes him¬
self at Otchakof, Kaii-
shanach, and Ismail... ib.
Platof visits Petersburgh 224
Prince Potyemkin. 225
Platofs Promotion ...... ib.
Platof fights in Persia ib.
The Emperor Pauls
foolish Conduct . 226
His Character. 227
Platofs Appearance at
Court. 228
Platof made Ataman of
the Kozaks of the
Don. 229
Foundation of Novo-
Tcherkask. ib.
Platofs Attachment to
old Customs. 230
His Distinctions. 231
His Eccentricity. 232
Anecdote. ib.
Platof’s Character of
Buonaparte .. 233
Anecdote. ib.
Platof serves against the
Turks. 234
Platofs Rewards. ib.
His Operations in 1812 235
Platof made a Count ... ib.
Platofs Addresses to his
' Soldiers. 236
X
CONTENTS.
Present from the Em¬
peror to Platof.. 236
Platof’s Visit to England ib.
Platofs Presents from
and to the Prince Re¬
gent . 237
The Prince Regent’s
Portrait. 238
The Sword of the City
of London. ib.
Platofs Arrival at Pe-
tersburgh. 239
Platof sets off for Vienna ib.
His Return to the Resi¬
dence. ib.
His Departure from it... ib.
His Triumphal Journey 240
Anecdote. ib.
Platof’s Entry into N6-
vo-Tcherkask. 24-1
His Conduct. ib.
Labaume’s Account of
Platofs Son’s Death 24-2
Rejoicing and Festivals 24-4
Bible Society at Novo-
Teherkask. 245
Improvements at Novo-
Teherkask. ib.
Preparations for the Vi¬
sit of the Emperor ... 246
Visit of the Great Duke
Mi chad. 247
Mishkin, Platofs Estate ib.
Platofs Departure for
Moscow. 248
His Death. ib.
Platof’s Character.—His
Failings. 249
His Monument. 250
CHAP. XX.
Conduct of Platof. —
Anecdote. 253
Page
Platofs Religious Prin¬
ciples. 256
Platofs Weakness. 257
Curious Anecdote. ib.
Platofs Dislike to Epis¬
tolary Correspondence 260
Anecdote. 261
Platof’s Kindness and
Hospitality to British
Travellers. 262
His Liberality. 266
His Style of Living. ib.
Stories respecting Pla¬
tofs Daughter and
her Dowry. 267
Anecdote. 268
Platof’s Behaviour in So¬
ciety. ib.
Platof always a true
Kozak . 269
Platofs Drollery. ib.
His Amusements. ib.
Anecdote. 270
Platofs Superstitions ... ib.
His Mode of Life. 271
Ilis Reception of Guests 272
His Poverty. 273
His General Character ib.
Ilis Portrait and Per¬
son. ib.
His Funeral Sermon. 274
Elegant Extracts. ib.
Platofs Marriage.. 275
His Family . 276
His Debts. ib.
His Property. 277
Departure from Novo-
Tcherkask. 278
Naktshivan. 279
Description of Taganrog ib.
Its Population. 280
Its Commerce. 281
Its Quarantine. 283
Departure for Nijni-
Novgorod. 284
CONTENTS.
XI
Page
CHAP. XXI.
Departure from Tagan¬
rog. 286
Step. — Uspenskoye. ib.
Lugan Iron-Works. 287
Arrival at Jeltoye Selo 288
Anecdote. ib.
Drowning of our Ser¬
vant . 289
His Funeral. 290
Village of Jeltoye Selo ib.
Fine Country.— Danc¬
ing. 291
Starobelsk. ib.
Ostrogojsk. 292
Character of Russian
Merchants. 293
Their Method of Bar¬
gaining. 294
Anecdote. 296
Premiums to Purchasers 297
German Colony. 299
Voroneje and its History 300
Present State of Voro¬
neje . 301
Commerce of Voroneje 302
Anecdote. ib.
A Eunuch. 304
Supply of Corn. ib.
Dr. Clarke’s Extrava¬
gance. 305
Cause of his Partial Ac¬
counts . 306
Milencts. 307
Z ad 6 ns k. 308
Yelets. 309
Yephremof.. 310
Boghorddskoye. ib.
Tula. — Serpuchof,. 311
Punishment of a Post-
Boor. 312
Moscow. — Boghorodsk ib.
Pokrof. 313
History of Vladimir. 314
Its Present State. 315
Its Cathedral. — Its
Churches. 3 IC
Its Population. 317
Famous for Cherries... ib.
The River Kliasma. 318
Sudogda. — Murom ... ib.
Iron-Works at Vixa. 321
Trick of Post-Boors. 323
Monakovo. 324
Roguery of its Smotri-
tel. 325
Boghorddskoye. 326
Arrival at Ntjni-Ndvgo-
rod. ib.
The Volga. — The Oka 327
CHAP. XXII.
History of Nijni-Ndvgo¬
rod...... 330
Its fine Situation . 331
Well adapted for Com¬
merce. 332
Nijni-Ndvgorod might
be the Capital of Rus¬
sia.. 334
Divisions of Nijni-Ndv¬
gorod. ib.
Its Cathedrals. — Its
Churches. 335
Its Population. 336
Bazars at Makarief
burned. 337
Plan of General Betan¬
court. 338
Objections to it. ib.
Unavoidable Difficulties 339
New Bazars at Nijni-
Ndvgorod. 342
Dismissal of General
Betancourt . 343
Description of the Ba¬
zars. ib.
Merchandise at them... 347
Merchandise at them in
1821 and 1823. 349
CONTENTS.
xii
Page
Merchandise at Maka-
riefinI813. 354-
Amusements at Nijni-
Novgorod. ib.
Anecdote. — Lodgings.
— Inns. 355
Steam - Boats on the
Volga . 356
My Departure in com¬
pany with Russian
Merchants. ib.
Gordchovets. —Viasniki 358
Vladimir.—Pekra. ib.
Gorenki Botanic Gar¬
dens, and their Di¬
rector, Dr. Fischer ... 359
Count Razumovskii. 361
Gorenki going to Ruin.. 362
New Botanic Garden at
Petersburgh. ib.
The late Count A. K.
Rasumovskii’s Affairs
embarassed. 363
The Russian Nobles no¬
torious for getting in¬
to Debt. 364
Anecdote. 365
Illustrations. 368
Character of the Rus¬
sians . 370
Arrival at Moscow. 371
New Facts respecting
this City. ib.
The Emperor Alexander
displeased with the
Author. 372
Character of Colonel
Boutourlin’s Work ... ib.
Russian Army retreats
to Fili. 374
Council of War. 375
The Russian and the
French Armies. 377
Decision of Prince Ku-
tusof. 378
Page
Russian Army s Retreat
through Moscow to
the Kolomna Road... 379
Entry of the French into
Moscow. 380
The Question, Who
burned Moscow ?. ib.
The Russians them¬
selves the Incen¬
diaries . ib.
Cause of their Denial of
this Deed. 381
Their Avowal of it now 383
Extraordinary Conduct
of Count llostopchln 384
Moscow burned by
quelque Personnage
(i grand Caractere . ib.
Conduct of the Emperor
Alexander and of
Russian Authors. 386
A Mystery. 387
The Emperor or Kutu-
sof the Grand Incen¬
diary of Moscow?... ib.
Effects of the Confla¬
gration. 388
Retreat of the Russian
Army. ib.
Impolitic Conduct of
Buonaparte. 389
The Ruin of the French
Army. ib.
CHAP. XXIII.
Ilostopchm’s conduct
before the Burning of
Moscow. 391
Probability of an Insur¬
rection of its Inhabit¬
ants . 392
Boutourlin’s Conclusions
respecting the Cam¬
paign of 1812. 393
CONTENTS.
Xlll
Page
Conduct of the Emperor
Alexander. 394
Conduct of Prince Ku-
tusof.. 395
Conduct of the Russian
Army. 397
Conduct of its Officers ib.
Conduct of Genera] Toll ib.
Reported Plan of the
Russians false. ib.
Boutourlin’s Patriotism 398
Alarm at the Power of
Russia . 399
Invasion of Russia in
1812. 400
Sir R. Wilson’s opinion
with respect to the
Power of Russia. 401
Opinion of Buonaparte 402
■ of Mr. Lack
Sczyrma. 405
-of M. de Pradt ib.
-of Count Ros-
t op eh in . 407
■ ■■ of M. Dupin... ib.
.-. of an Anony¬
mous Writer.. ib.
-of Colonel Bou-
tourlin. 408
-of the Periodi¬
cal Press . ib.
-of the Author... 409
Russia Accessible, Vul¬
nerable, and even
Conquerable. ib.
Power and Policy of
Great Britain . 410
Europe need not be
alarmed by Russia ... ib.
State of Great Britain 412
Russia requires to be
watched . 413
Her Army. ib.
Composition of the Rus¬
sian Empire. 414
Page
Iler Over-action. 415
Probable Fate of Russia 416
Russia the Bug*bear of
Europe. 418
The Emperor Paul. ib.
The Emperor Alexander 421
The Great Dukes. 426
The Empress. 427
The Dowager Empress ib.
Illustrations of the Cha¬
racter of the Russians 428
Their Religion. 430
Anecdotes. 432
Civil Administration of
Russia. 439
Its New Organisation... 441
Oppression of the Po¬
lice . 442
Soldier’s Quarters. 444
Ranks and Titles of the
Russians. 445
Nobles. 447
Clergy. —Merchants.—
Peasants. 448
Anecdotes. 449
Russian Tables. 453
Climate of Russia. 455
Ice-Palace. ib.
Ice-Dolphins, Cannon,
Mortars, &c. 457
Improvements at Mos¬
cow. 459
CHAP. XXIV.
Civil and Military Hos¬
pitals in Russia. 462
Mary’s Hospital at Pe-
tersburgh. ib.
Naval Hospitals . ib.
Divisions of the Medical
Department in Russia 463
Sir Alexander Crichton ib.
Doctor Leighton. ib.
\1\
CONTENTS.
Page
Sir James Wylie, Bart. 464
Outlines of his Life. 465
Departure from Moscow 471
The Kherson Gates. ib.
Military Colonisation... 472 |
Page
New Hoad between Pe-
tersburgh and Moscow 472
Diligences . 473
Petersburg!!. ib.
Conclusion. 474
APPENDIX.
No. Page
I. Respecting Odessa 475
II. Mineral Springs of
the Caucasus. 480
III. Poisonous Bugs of
Miana... 482
IV. The Temple of our
Saviour on the
Sparrow-hill,near
Moscow.... 484
No. Page
V. History of the Or-
lof Family. 498
VI. Political Docu¬
ments . 505
VII. Itinerary . 530
LIST OF THE VIGNETTES
IN
THE SECOND VOLUME.
CHAPTER XIII.
No. Page
13. The Castle of Tiflis. 1
CHAP. XIV.
14. Gremi Castle and Church. 34
CHAP. XV.
15. The Town of Telav. 77
CHAP. XVI.
16. The Town of Tiflis. 130
CHAP. XVII.
17. The Castle of Ananoor. 160
CHAP. XVIII.
18. A Fortified Village near Kazbek. 178
CHAP. XIX.
19. Mishkin, the Estate of the late Count Platdf.. 207
CHAP. XX.
20. Plan of Taganrog... 251
CHAP. XXI.
21. A Rural Scene in Russia, Dancing, &c. 285
CHAP. XXII.
22. Plan of the New Bazar at Nljni-NoVgorod. 32S
CHAP. XXIII.
23. The Ice-Palace at Petersburgh. 390
CHAP. XXIV.
24. The Hospital of (the Dowager Empress) Mary, at
Petersburgh..... 461
CHAPTER XIII.
FOUNDATION OF TIFLIS UNCERTAIN. — ITS CONNECTION WITH
GEORGIA.— HISTORY OF GEORGIA.-ITS CONNECTIONS WITH
RUSSIA. -CHURCHES IN GEORGIA. - TOLERATION.-PRO¬
DUCTIONS. — TOWNS. — POPULATION. — REVENUE.-ADMI¬
NISTRATION. - MEDICAL UPRAVA. - CHARACTER AND CON¬
DITION OF*THE GEORGIANS. — BRIBERY AND CORRUPTION.—
UNCERTAINTY OF PROPERTY. —ATTACKS OF THE LESGHEES.
— PUBLIC IMPROVEMENTS. — DEPARTURE. — RUSSIANS
MUSHROOM-EATERS. - ROAD TO MUCIIROVAN. - DESCRIP¬
TION OF MUCHROVAN. — THE YORA. — RUINS OF A CONVENT.
— GAMBORA. — HILL OF GAMBORA. - DESCRIPTION OF
TELAV. - DEPARTURE. - THE ALASAN. — YENISELI, —
GEORGIAN DINNER. — WINE OF KACHETI A. — PRINCE GEORGI-
ADTSOF_RUSSIAN CAMP.- KVARELLI.
As already alluded to, some have pretended to
have traced the foundation of Tiflis up to the year
409, and ascribe it to Vachtang, in those days a
VOL. II,
B
2
CONNECTION OF TIFLIS WITH GEORGIA.
sovereign of some consequence, who, by force
of arms and repeated victories, acquired dominion
over the mountainous regions and the unbounded
plains which stretch between the Black and the
Caspian Seas. But, with respect to these early
periods of history, we have yet much to learn ; and,
for 500 years after the assumed foundation of Tiflis
in 469, we are presented with a blank or chasm,
which is not likely to be tilled lip. I shall now
take notice of Tiflis as connected with Georgia,
and as having been the capital of her tsars in
periods of greater glory than she can now pretend
to, or think of recovering.
The tsar David, surnamed the Restorer, who
reigned from the year 1089 to 1130 , endeavoured
to make the sciences flourish within the walls of
Tiflis. He sent twelve young men, of good fami¬
lies, to study at Athens, who returned to their coun¬
try, and brought with them useful knowledge, and
Greek manuscripts, which they translated into their
own language. The most laborious and the most
learned of their writers was Petrucius, surnamed
the Philosopher, Knowledge very soon spread
through this country, hitherto barbarous; and
the reign of the Princess Tamar improved those
happy dawnings. Many schools were formed, and
the number of good books was augmented. The
protection which thatprincess granted to seminaries,
and the brilliant acts of her reign, have acquired,
with justice to her memory, the title of great. Soon
HISTORY OF GEORGIA.
3
after her death, the famous Tchingis Khan ravaged
this unfortunate country. In vain some Georgians
endeavoured to preserve the knowledge of science
and literature in some isolated convents and strong
holds among the mountains, where the manu¬
scripts were concealed ; but, continual wars, civil
discord, the yoke of the Mussulmans, whose pos¬
sessions on all sides surrounded those of Georgia,
scarcely left her any communication with Greece,
whose tottering throne soon afterwards fell. All
these causes replunged Georgia into a state of bar¬
barism, perhaps worse than that from which she
had begun to emerge. During their subjection
to Persia, the Georgians, especially those of Tiflfs,
applied themselves to the literature of their con¬
querors ; but the few amateurs of national litera¬
ture were confined to monasteries, and only began
to flourish under the reign of Heraclius, in con¬
sequence of the protection which this sovereign, as
well as Antonius, the first Catholikos, gave to letters,
which they themselves also cultivated. Heraclius
founded an office for printing in Georgian charac¬
ters at Tiflfs, an establishment which was increased
by the care of Gaius, archbishop of Penza, who
made a present to the nation of a printing-office
which he had at Mozdok.
I must refer the reader to consult other sources
for the minutiae of the history of Georgia. It can¬
not be irrelevant to our present subject, however,
to give a rapid general-sketch of this country, par-
« 2
4
HISTORY OF GEORGIA.
ticularly of its connection with Russia. In the
execution of this design I have profited by Madame
Freyganch’s labours.
Every nation is ambitious of carrying its ge¬
nealogy as high as possible. The Georgians pre¬
tend to trace theirs to Noah, who, they say, gave
this country to his son Sliem. It is from Farsis,
and after him from Targamos, that the Armenians,
Lesghees, Colchians, Mingrelians, and the natives
of the Caucasus, derive their origin. In course of
time, the Persians seized on Georgia, and kept it,
until Alexander the Great, obtaining possession of
it by his conquest of Persia, gave the government
to Ason. This man was, after the death of Alex¬
ander, killed by Pharnabazus, a relation of Darius,
who made himself master of Georgia, and became
its first king, about 300 years before the Christian
ana. From this epoch, they enumerate ninety so¬
vereigns, whose succession extends to our time:
among these are Assyrian, Armenian, and Persian
princes. The throne of Georgia has been occupied
by females also; of whom Tamar, who reigned
from 1171 to 1198, has rendered herself famous by
victories over the Turks and Persians. She mar¬
ried Bogholyubskii, a Russian prince, and was suc¬
ceeded by Rus-Oudan, her daughter, who reigned
at the time when Tchingis Khan overran Georgia,
which he did upon three different occasions. Af¬
terwards the famous tsar Tamerlane made dreadful
havoc in his endeavours to introduce Mahome-
HISTORY OF GEORGIA.
5
tanism. What, however, proved most prejudicial,
was the partition of the country, which many of its
sovereigns had the imprudence to make. By it
they facilitated the attempts of the Persians and
Turks, who continually encroached, making this
the theatre of their wars. Alexander I. divided it
in 1424 into three principalities, namely, Kartali-
nia, Kachetia, and Imeretia,with which he endowed
his three sons. These provinces fell under the
power of numerous princes, whose origin is referred,
like that of all the Georgian chiefs, to the three
sons of the tsar Alexander.
The fate of Georgia was at length decided by
the war of Amurat the third, the Turkish Sultan,
against the Persian Schahs, Mahomet Khodabende,
Ismael the Third, and Abbas the Great, the rival
powers dividing it between them. Mingrelia,
Gouriel and Imeretia, submitted to the Turkish
yoke ; the remainder, comprising Kachetia, Somhe-
tia, and Gardaban, tell into the hands of the Per¬
sians. This division took place in 1576, under the
reign of the first Simon, tsar of Kartalinia. In
order to establish a barrier between their posses¬
sions and those of Persia, the Turks invited the
Tartars, who inhabit the mountains, and profess
the same creed with them, to enter Georgia and
lay it waste on the side of Persia. These depred¬
ations, which harassed the whole country, deter¬
mined the tsar Alexander II. to implore assistance
from PheodoiTvanovitch, tsar of Moscovy, to whom
G HISTORY OF GEORGIA.
an ambassador was sent for this purpose in 158G,
beseeching him, for the defence of Georgia, to
build a Russian town upon the Terek. This treaty
placed Georgia under the protection of the Rus¬
sians, who communicated thereupon with the Schali
Abbas. That prince, being at war with Turkey,
feared to irritate the tsar, and came into his views.
A few years later, George, tsar of Kartalinia,
threw himself upon the protection of Russia, where
Boris Phedorovitch Godunof now reigned. From
this time Georgia had the support of Russia, which
has often saved her from ruin. It should be observ¬
ed, that when, in IG78, she again solicited protec¬
tion, it was specified, in the treaty as delivered to
the tsarevitch Nicolas, that she placed herself un¬
der the dependance of Russia, where many of the
Georgian tsarevitches came thereupon to reside. *
While the Turks and the Persians ravaged
Georgia, Peter the Great, either wishing to have
a share in the spoil, or to check the progress of
the other aggressors, caused his troops to take
possession of Derbent and Baku, which, with the
provinces of Gliilan, Mazanderan, and Astrabad,
were afterwards ceded to Russia by treaty. Geor¬
gia had again no tranquillity until 17 ^ 9 , when Russia
concluded a treaty with Persia. Seven years after
this, Schah Nadir, named Tamas Kooli Khan, hav¬
ing mounted the throne of Persia, delivered Karta-
* Letters from the Caucasus and Georgia, p. 119 .
HISTORY OT GEORGIA.
7
linia and Kachetia from the Turkish yoke. Russia,
on her part, by a treaty in 17 S 2 , ceded her pos¬
sessions between the Terek and the Koor. In
17 S 5 , Turkey renouncing all pretensions to Geor¬
gia, consented to the occupation of the country by
the Persians, after which the Georgians contributed
greatly to the success of Nadir Schah.
Taimouras, who became viceroy of Georgia, with
his son Heraclius, defended their territories against
all their enemies, and even obtained repeated victo¬
ries over the competitors for the throne of Persia;
but, for the sake of increasing their power, they en¬
tered into an engagement with the Empress Eliza¬
beth to maintain fidelity to Russia. In consequence
of a rupture between Taimouras and Heraclius, in
1760, the latter seized Kartalinia and Kachetia, be¬
came very formidable, and, in 17t>3, fought with
the Russians against the Turks. I 11 177'E peace
was concluded between Russia and Turkey;
and Kartalinia and Kachetia were declared inde¬
pendent. In 1783, different unsatisfactory rea¬
sons were assigned for the cession of both these
provinces to Russia. A new war broke out be¬
tween this power and Turkey ; but, at the peace of
1791, the Georgians were declared independent of
the Turks. Aga Mahomed Khan, who had ascended
the throne of Persia, completed the misfortunes
of this people in 1795. By forced marches from
Georgia he reached Tiflis, with a numerous army,
surprised the tsar Heraclius, who, although above
b 4
8
CONNECTION OF GEORGIA WITH RUSSIA.
eighty years old, fought like a hero, and did prodi¬
gies of valour, but was only able to save himself
and his family by flight. Tiflis was ravaged,
burned, and almost entirely demolished. All its
principal inhabitants, especially the females, were
carried into captivity. The Russian army, under
Count Zubof entered Georgia, and gained several
advantages in 179 b; but the Empress Catherine
II. died, and the singular Paul recalled the troops.
Ileraclius died in 1798, in the thirty-second year
of his reign, and the 84th of his age. After his
death discord was renewed between the different
competitors to the throne, which, by right of pri¬
mogeniture, belonged to George, oldest son of the
last sovereign. Omar, khan of the Avares, made
an irruption into the country, and no doubt would
have taken advantage of the civil war, so as to have
conquered it completely, if the Russian army,
which also entered it at the same time, had not
dispersed its troops, and re-established general tran¬
quillity.
According to the account of the Russians,
George Heraclievitch (the son of Heraclius), feel¬
ing his end approaching, and foreseeing the inevit¬
able evils which his death would cause in his un¬
fortunate country, submitted himself, with all the
princes of his family, the grandees, and the people,
to the Emperor Paul I. who caused this kingdom
to be taken possession of in 1S01, and which was
confirmed by a manifest of Alexander in the same
ciiuuciiEs. — toleration. — productions. 9
year. Kartalinia and Kaehetia were divided into
five districts: three in Kartalinia, Gdri, Lori, and
Dushet ; and two in Kaehetia, Tcldv and Signdg .
Georgia Proper, which is called Grusia by the
Russians, and Goorgistan, or Koorcliistan, by the
Persians, comprehends the province of Kaehetia
(ancient Albania), of Imeretia (ancient Iberia),
and of Kartalinia. Mingrelia (ancient Colchis),
and, since 1813, the Khdnats of Talishin and
Karabagh also belong to Russian Georgia.
In the part of Georgia now subject to Russia,
there are no less than 3000 churches, most of them
excessively poor, and many of them in ruins. They
are chiefly built in the same style of architecture,
which is better illustrated by the vignettes than by
descriptions.
Toleration, as in Russia, is extended to all nations
and all religious creeds, who have even their oxen
magistrates among the Russians to settle their dis¬
putes, but always under the cognizance of the go¬
vernor-general.
Although the climate of Georgia is fine, and the
country is rich, sending forth its productions almost
spontaneously ; though its rivers abound in fish, and
numerous herds of eattle are fed upon its abun¬
dant herbage, yet it does not appear to be very
flourishing, if we might judge either by its popula¬
tion, or by the small number of paltry towns which
are scattered throughout its territories.
We have seen that Tiflis has long ceased to con-
10
TOWNS. — POPULATION. — REVENUE.
tain above 20,000 inhabitants ; and it may be ques¬
tioned whether any of its other towns, within the
last hundred years, ever possessed the fourth or fifth
part of that number. The present chief towns, besides
Tiflis, are Gori, Ananoor, Telav, and Signag, &c.
Gori is but a small town ; Ananoor is a paltry
village, of a few miserable huts, as I have already
mentioned; Telav is a mean town indeed; and
Signag contains 100 houses, and only 300 or 400
inhabitants.
In Russian Georgia are reckoned 308,000 inhabit¬
ants by one account and, by another, which is
more accurate, they are 371,200.* They have,
adopted the manner of life, the costume, and the
customs of the Persians, who were their conquerors,
and who long held them in subjection. A fourth part
of the present population, however, are Armenians.
The revenue of this country is reckoned at
300,000 roubles, which go solely to the support of
the administration, and the improvement and re¬
newal of the towns and villages of the country.
Georgia is now under the immediate administra¬
tion of the military governor-general of “ Georgia,
Astrachan, and Caucasus .” The form of the admi-
* The population of the south of the Russian empire may
be estimated thus: Kozaks of the Don, 250,000; Tcherno-
morskii Kozaks, 14,500; Government of the Caucasus, 122,400,
including 25,000 Georgians, Ossetinians, Circassians, &c. ;
Georgia, 371,200; Mingrelia, 26,000; Imeretia, 80,000; Les-
ghistan, 20,000; Daghistan, 30,000 ; Shirvan, 25,000; Khanat
of Karabagh, 30,000; and that of Talishin, 30,000.
ADMINISTRATION.
11
nistration is similar to that of the governments of
Russia. It is under the inspection of a superior
Georgian administration, fixed in Tiflis, which is
divided into four expeditions or departments:
1st, The executive department; 2d, The crown
and economical department; 3d, That for crimi¬
nal affairs; and, 4th, That for civil affairs. Geor¬
gian princes and nobles are admitted to the ad¬
ministration as well as Russians. Indeed, some
tell us, that the Georgians are governed by their
proper laws, and that in their legislation they
follow the code of Vachtang, already mentioned.
But, at the same time, they inform us, that to the
officers of the country, Russians have been joined
for the executive department, and that the gover¬
nor-general has the right to combine the Georgian
laws with the Russian penal code, and often to mi¬
tigate the sentences. *
* One Russian author, Vsdvolojskii, following his country¬
man, Stchlkatof, tells us, that “ L’empereur a permis que les
Georgiens continuassent d se gouverner par l-eurs propres loix.
IIs suivent, pour leur legislation, le code de Vakhtang, un des
leurs souverains : mais on a joint anx ojjicicrs dupays des Busses
pour la partie executive et le gouverneur-general a le droit de
concilier ces loix avec le code pdnal Russe , et souvent a niitiger
les sentences.”— Geographticlieskoye Slovdr Rossiiskaho Go -
suddrstva , vol. vi. p. 212 ; and Dictionairc Historiquc-Gcogra-
phique of Vsdvolojskii, vol. i. p. 193. This chevalier, and real
Russian, thus employs much circumlocution with the view of mak¬
ing his readers believe that the Georgians have some share in
the administration ; but, the fact is, that the Russians are not
only for u la partie executive" — by the way the most important
l‘<l MEDICAL UPRAVA.-TIIE GEORGIANS.
For the support of the administration in Geor¬
gia, were allotted 71,000 roubles, which, I believe,
has been augmented to above 100,000 since Gene¬
ral Yermolof became governor of this province of
the empire.
At Tiflis there is a medical Uprava , and in the
district towns medical men are stationed.* In the
same towns are also commandants, police-masters,
cashiers, provincial courts, and other necessary
magistracies.
The Iberians, ancestors of the present Geor¬
gians, have been celebrated for their valour and
conquests, and struggled successfully against the
Medes and the Persians t ; and Chardin speaks of
them as “ mutins, legers, et vaillans.” lteineggs
relates, “ that both the nobles and the peasantry
of Georgia are given up to a wretched degree of
sloth, appearing to despise all laudable pursuits
which require attention or labour; and, amongst
others, the cultivation of the earth. But this
stubborn indolence is not the natural bias of the
Georgian. He is fully aware of his wants, of his
miserable poverty, and of the usual means of
relieving such a state; but he has no hope in
—but they have complete sway in all cases. The Georgian
magistrates are mere automata, who afford a cloak to Russian
government, or perhaps misrule.
* Vide Explanation, p. 360. of Vol. I.
f Letters from the Caucasus, p. 119.
CHARACTER AND CONDITION OF THE GEORGIANS. 13
applying to the resources apparently open to his
industry. Oppression is at the door to weigh
down his efforts, or rapacity at hand to seize the
product of his labours. He is under the eye and
the hand, and the double yoke, first of his own
chiefs, and then of the powers beyond them, till
the burthen becomes too heavy to be borne
erect, and the man falls prostrate — a wretched
useless slave. Thus avarice sets bounds to its own
extortion, by damming up the sources whence it
Hows.” It is remarked with great truth by Sir
11. K. Porter, that “ constant tends amongst the
chiefs themselves, rendered desperate by the total
absence of all Jaw or justice$ the inroads of the
Lesghees, and bloody wars with the Turks and
Persians, all combined to drive the great mass of
the people into that state of utter despair, which
gradually subsides into the sullen contentedness of
sloth, ignorance and poverty.” This, as is well
said by the same author, “ must be the uni¬
versal situation of every country which has been,
for any time, under the subjection, or rather
misrule, of a ceaseless change of masters ; some,
absolutely barbarians, and others who have yet to
learn the science of government from Christian
laws : and this was the situation of Georgia for a
sad succession of times. ” This is all very just,
and Sir R. K. Porter takes the opportunity of con¬
trasting the former with the present condition of
14 CHARACTER AN1) CONDITION OF THE GEORGIANS.
Georgia under the sway of the autocrat of Russia,
in his usual style of complacency toward that great
northern power. “ But,” says he, “ about twenty
years ago, it (Georgia) was received within the lines
of the Russian empire; and the happy effects on
the minds of the people, in feeling themselves
under a regular government, secure in its natural
strength, and dispensing that security to its ap¬
pendages, are already become very apparent.
Every encouragement to industry is held out to
them; and none has more persuasion than the
laws, which protect men in the possession of the
fruits of their labours. The different European
governors who have been put at the head of
affairs here, since the junction of the province
with Russia, have done all in their power to con¬
ciliate both nobles and people, by the administra¬
tion of an equal justice, and a gradual amelioration
of all those circumstances which had so long
disorganised, and rendered poor, savage, and
miserable, all ranks of persons. Being now effec¬
tually guarded from the inroads of the Lesghees,
or the more overwhelming incursions of Turks
and Persians, the higher orders begin to feel again
that they hold a station in their country ; and to
establish the re-awakened sense in their own
minds, and in the respect of the people at large.
His Imperial Majesty has conferred orders and
medals of distinction on many of the native nobi-
CHARACTER AND CONDITION OF THE GEORGIANS. 15
lity, with titles and commissions of military rank ;
and, in short, every other excitement to the restor¬
ation, or rather civilisation, of the country, that
can be offered by a generous sovereign to a brave
and confiding people. That they are still brave,
when they have any thing beyond mere animal
existence to defend, has been made manifest
during the last twelve or fourteen years. In the
wars of that period, they engaged heart and hand
under the banners of Russia; and their chiefs so
distinguished themselves, that many rose to the
rank of generals ; still continuing the brave acts
by which their new honours were won. Indeed,
it is very evident how much easier their new
government finds it to arouse the old spirit of
Iberian and Albanian courage in the bosoms of
their Georgian descendants, than to inspire them
with one for traffic and agriculture.” The knight
says further, that all will succeed in good time, and
that the Armenians set a stimulating example of the
ways and means of industry to the Georgians,
and show many advantages resulting from their
exercise. He also informs us, in his usual com¬
plimentary style, that the high reputation as a
soldier, which is attached to the character of
General Yermolof, and the noble style of his
government, not in parade, but in principle, suits
well with the naturally independent minds of the
people, so long chained to the soil. The marks,
he adds, of these evil days, “ now passed away ,
10 CHARACTER AND CONDITION OF THE GEORGIANS.
are yet upon the countenances of most of the men :
a sort of cloud hangs over their brows, habitual
from the gloom that once possessed their souls:
but with the growing perceptions of happier times,
these shades will disappear, and the brave Geor¬
gian look as brightly to the sun as any of his free¬
born brothers of the mountains. ” *
The situation of Georgia, as a separate power,
seems not to have been enviable. She was open
to the attacks of four powerful enemies, the
mountain tribes of the Caucasus, the Turks, the
Persians, and the Russians; and was often placed
between two or three painful alternatives, one
of which she was obliged to choose. We need
not therefore be surprised that now there are
few towns in Georgia, and that these few scarcely
deserve the appellation. The improvement of the
road through the defiles of the Caucasus, and the
consequent increased facility of attack, no doubt
gave Russia great advantages; and, by the general
turn of political affairs, and her usual cunning
policy, that power at length got full possession of
the country of the Georgians. In many of the
sentiments of Sir R. K. Porter, with respect to
the general effects of the Russian government,
I perfectly coincide; but when he talks of “ the
administration of an equal justice he seems either
to have very incorrect ideas of the real state of
* Travels in Georgia, Persia, &c. vol. i. pp. 131-1.
BRIBERY AND CORRUPTION.-PROPERTY. 17
affairs, or to have wished to pay a compliment to a
power which he feared to offend. For no man
dare speak all the truth, and far less commit it to
the press, and afterwards attempt to reside in the
dominions of Russia, as has been the case with the
flattering fawning knight. If he did so, even in
these enlightened days, but for the interference
of his government, he assuredly would be sent
to inhale “ the free air of Siberia,” before being
consigned to the mines, or meeting with an insi¬
dious death. There is no danger of being contra¬
dicted by any person of veracity and impartiality,
when I state boldly, that “ equal justice” is almost
totally unknown in the civil, maritime, or military
affairs of Russia or her provinces. As in the
Krimea, so it is in Georgia, the laws and the
persons in authority, as mentioned, are now partly
native and partly Russian; an arrangement that
causes great difficulties, many of which, however,
are perhaps unavoidable. The same grievance
has likewise been and is still complained of by
the Georgians, as by the Tauridan Tartars # : viz.
that their country has so often changed masters,
that it is next to impossible to decide to whom
estates and other property belong. I was as¬
sured that the tribunals at Tiflis were filled with
so many papers, ancient and modern, respecting
affairs in litigation, as would occupy some years
* Vide p. 341. Vol. I.
VOL. II. C
18 UNCERTAINTY OF PROPERTY.-LESGHEES.
merely to read them. This is a great misfortune
for the Georgians, but the Russian authorities will
turn it to account. They will reap the advantage
of it, as the same system of bribery and corrup¬
tion which I have elsewhere pourtrayed in pretty
strong colours # , has spread its pestiferous influ¬
ence across the Caucasian mountains, and now
reigns at Tiflis, and throughout Georgia.
I must also differ in opinion from Sir R. K.
Porter, when he states that the Georgians are even
now “ effectually guarded from the inroads of the
Lesghees,” for such is not the case. On the
contrary, these savage and predatory people,
rushing from the Alpine passes of the Caucasus,
continue to make frequent incursions into Kache-
tia, and often carry off considerable booty, espe¬
cially cattle, and make their retreat before the
Russians are aware of the place of their descent,
or, at least, can assemble a force sufficient to justify
an attack. The histories of many such affairs
were related to us, as we traversed the base of the
Caucasus, and we were shown the deep ravines
and mountain defiles by which these fierce, and
formidable, and brave freebooters, had either made
their inroads or secured their retreats.
Colonel Johnson, in reference to the tribes of
the Caucasus, and especially to the Georgians,
remarks that, “ no effectual measures have yet
The Character of the Russians, p. cxli.
POLICY OF liUSSlA.
19
been adopted to civilise these people, and to render
them useful subjects of the state to which they
belong. The practice lately instituted, of taking
some of the young sons of the principal men, to
educate them, will no doubt tend greatly, to this
desirable object. It may be safely assumed, that
one main reason which has operated to render the
minds of these people unwilling to submit to the
laws of their rulers, has been the bad policy of
Russia in sending, or rather in exiling to the most
distant commands, those of her officers who were
most undeserving. This policy has, however, now
been changed for a better; and officers, selected
on account of their merit, have been appointed to
different stations in Georgia. Another great ob¬
stacle to the free intercourse of the Caucasian
tribes with Russia, arises from the permanent
quarantine regulations. An opinion prevails, that
the mountain tribes have the plague perpetually
among them. Hence they are allowed no com¬
munication with the interior, at least by means of
the Russians; who, to this day, I believe, have
few if any of their own trust-worthy people com¬
petent to speak either of the languages of these
tribes. The ground of this opinion concerning
the plague is therefore never called in question;
and these poor people, in mercantile pursuits,
suffer so much by detention, exaction, and other
grievances at the quarantine stations, that should
they be disposed, they could not, without consi-
c 2
20 PROBABLE IMPROVEMENT.—DEPARTURE.
derable difficulty, under those restraints, take
either cattle, honey, butter, hides, furs, yapoonches,
felts, or any of their merchandise and commo¬
dities to Russian markets, or even obtain leave to
import to their own mountainous abodes any
articles of Russian manufacture for their own
use.” *
Other twenty years, however, of subjection, of
good government, and of general organisation of
the civil and military authorities, may be of great
consequence to the Georgians ; who, as the Rus¬
sians say, are tied to them now by their own
interests. And even under the yoke of Russia,
Georgia may make progress in civilisation, and
acquire an additional importance in the rank of
nations, if there happen to be placed over her an
intelligent, honest, moderate, and vigorous indi¬
vidual, as her military governor. One might al¬
most say as her ruler, for except in the receipt
of orders, this post has the appearance, in many
respects, of an independent sovereignty.
On the 22d June, after an early dinner at
the civil governor’s, General Hofen, accompanied
by Mr. Gribayedof t, we bade adieu to Tiflis, with
* A Journey from India to England, p. 265.
f The derivation of this name is very simple. It comes
from the noun grib, a mushroom, and the verb yesl, to eat;
and therefore signifies mushroom-eater. Gribayedof is a very
common name; but as all the Russians, nobles and peasants,
males and females, are great mushroom-eaters, we may be
MUSHROOM-EATERS.—ROAD TO MUCHROVAN. 21
the view of. making a short tour in Kachetia.
After enjoying the picturesque view of the castle
of Tiflis, which is represented at the head of this
chapter, we crossed the Koor by the wooden
bridge formerly spoken of, and ascended to the
mean suburb of Avlabari, by a road cut in the
mountain. Passing out at a stone gate, we turned
to the west, and pursued our course for some
versts, during which we had some good views of
the bleak barren hills around Tiflis, rising above
each other in a wave-like manner. There is a post
road to Muchrovan, our destination; but besides
it, different other roads conduct to the same place.
Having no guide, we lost our way, and did not
reach this station till late in the evening. Near
Tiflis we remarked many corn-fields, and a good
deal of pasture land; but the corn had all been
cut, and the greatest part of it carried home.
This circumstance, however, plainly showed that
the appearance of Tiflis must be lively in the
spring. We passed numerous carts of the Georgi¬
ans, on their way to that capital, with the produce
surprised that it is not still more prevalent. Vide (< Remarks
on Edible Mushrooms,” in the appendix of The Character of
the Russians, p. 556.” The name Babayedof, vide p. 388. of
Vol. I. appears plainly to be derived from baba, a grand¬
mother, a midwife, or simply a woman, and yest, to eat; but its
application I cannot comprehend. It may be connected with
some tradition or legend. If we translate it literally, woman -
eater, it would argue some reference to cannibalism.
c 3
22
DESCRIPTION OF MUCHROVAN.
of their farms. Our road was over an undulating
country, which became more and more interesting
as we receded from Tiflis, and to which Nature
became more lavish of her bounties. A few versts
from Muchrovan, we descended into an extensive
and fine valley ; and from thence, by a long and
steep ascent, we reached the military station, so
called, thirty versts from Tiflis, and met with a
hearty reception from Colonel Peter Nikolaevitch
Yermolof a cousin of General Yermolof.
Muchrovan is beautifully situated on an elevated
hill, and while it commands a fine view of a
valley on the west, it also presents a number of
elevated woody mountains, rising above each
other, on the east, and gave a correct idea of
the fine scenery, scattered with ruins, among
which we were about to proceed. This charm¬
ing place is the head quarters of a regiment,
and a battalion is generally stationed at it. Be¬
sides the colonel’s, the lieutenant-colonel’s, and
other officers’ houses, we found here barracks, a
hospital, and a number of zemldks, or houses half
under ground; and at a short distance is an old
church hewn out of the solid rock, which has been
converted into a powder magazine.
In the valley on the west flows the river Yora,
and on its banks is a village of Wurtemburghers,
called Sertitchali, who were in a prosperous con¬
dition. Thus, wherever we go in Russia, we
remark colonies of Germans, —from Archangel to
DESCRIPTION OF MUCHROVAN.
23
Tiflis, and from Poland to Kamstchatka,—who, in
addition to their habits of industry and their
general knowledge, also add that of agriculture ;
and, in consequence, prove useful to themselves,
and still more so to the country, by furnishing
many places with necessaries and luxuries, and
affording practical lessons to the natives, as well
as showing them an example of moral conduct.
This, however, does not seem to be the case in the
Krimea. And, indeed, according to the relation
of Mrs. Holderness, there, their conduct and con¬
dition is far from respectable.
We were assured that though Muchrovan is
only thirty versts distant from Tiflis, yet that there
is a very material difference of temperature. In¬
deed it was said, that often while life is almost
insupportable at Tiflis, owing to the sultry oppres¬
sive atmosphere, at Muchrovan it is pleasant
though warm. The officers agreed that it was
a real punishment to be sent from hence to spend
a few days in the Georgian capital.
All the officers of the battalion dined at Colonel
Yermolof’s, and many histories, with respect to the
mountain tribes of the Caucasus, proved the pro¬
minent topic of conversation; all of which re¬
ceived the greatest attention.
At five o’clock p. m. on the 23d of June, our
party being increased by Colonel Yermolofj Lieu¬
tenant-Colonel (Count) Simonitch, and a number
of officers, on horseback, while we were in two
c 4
24 THE YORA.-ANCIENT CONVENT. — GAMBORA.
calashes, we left Muchrovan, and descended a
steep hill to the Yora, which flowed so rapidly,
that some dogs, in attempting to swim across it,
were carried to a considerable distance in spite of
all their efforts. The water did not reach the
horses* girths, but the bottom was filled with large
stones, so that we expected every moment to be
upset.
We passed the ruins of an old castle, and two
or three versts beyond them, we reached an ancient
monastery. This convent is of considerable ex¬
tent, and it has a respectable appearance. Its walls
are in a ruinous condition. It is now occupied as a
station, or place of rest by travellers; and, if one
might judge by appearances, also by their cattle.
Its principal church is in the same style of archi¬
tecture as those at Msket and Ananoor.
Pursuing our course to the east, by a winding
road, over gentle elevations, through valleys and
ravines, across numerous streams and rivulets,
and amid fine plantations, wooded hills and moun¬
tains, we reached the military station of Gam-
bora, only two versts distant from a Kozak piquet
of the same name. During this ride of twenty-
four versts, we saw but very few villages; but
ruins of castles and churches were scattered every
where. As we got to the station, a cannon was
fired, the echo of which among the mountains
was the loudest, and the most prolonged, I ever
remarked. A rocket was afterwards let oftj and
GAMBORA.-HILL OF GAMBORA. 25
ascended to a great height. This practice is fol¬
lowed every evening, instead of beating a drum,
as the signal for the soldiers to take their repose.
We were politely received, supped with Lieu¬
tenant-Colonel Firsof, and then went to bed.
Gambora is reckoned a camp, or a military
station for a battalion; and, besides tents, many
wooden houses have been already erected here.
The situation is low, and it is completely con¬
cealed by high mountains, clothed, for the most
part, with luxuriant wood.
From Gambora, on the following day, we directed
our course to the summit of the hill which has
also this name. The ascent begins from the
station, and we made a detour from the road,
accompanied by a single Kozak. We were never
obliged to quit our horses, and I should think
this mountain does not exceed 1,200 feet in
height. It is however the highest hill in this
neighbourhood, till we fall in with the great moun¬
tain-chain of the Caucasus. The view from it
is most magnificent, extensive, and diversified.
Mountains, hills, and valleys, finely wooded and
watered by many streams and rivers, lay under us;
and the course of the Alasan, winding through the
vale of Telav, presented charming scenery. From
Gambora, in clear weather, there is also a good
view of the Caucasian Alps; but while we were
on its summit, their hoary heads were enveloped
in clouds. To enliven the scene, numerous herds
DESCRIPTION OF TELAV.
26
of sheep and cattle were watched by shepherds
all round its vicinity.
The Gambora, besides other plants, is pro¬
fusely decorated with the beautiful Pyrethrum
Roseum.
After regaining the great road, which was very
bad, we continued our progress, sometimes ascend¬
ing, at others descending, across numerous
streams, through a long and rich valley, whose
sides were every where fringed with wood. On
emerging from this valley, on our right we re¬
marked the ruins of another ancient monastery,
of no very imposing appearance, and after a short
ride got to Telav, and took up our abode in the
residence of Major Ilyinskii, the chief of the dis¬
trict of the same name.
There are two roads from the hill of Gambora
to Telav. On our return we took a different
route, through still more romantic and interesting
scenery, and often proceeded in the course of the
river Tetri-Dskali.
As has been already mentioned, Telav, miserable
as it is, is one of the chief towns of Georgia, even
in the present day. It was formerly a place of
much more importance, and was one of the royal
residences of the tsar Heraclius: a choice which
does the sovereign great honour for good taste.
Though the chief town of the most populous dis¬
trict in Georgia, it is but a very small place.
It is built upon the declivity of a hill, and most of
DESCRIPTION OF TELAV.
27
its houses are concealed among high trees and
shrubbery It contains a long line of shops or
bazars, like those at Tiflis, and supplied with the
same kinds of merchandise. Its population amounts
to nearly 1000 souls. It is rather remarkable on
account of having no less than three fortresses, in
the largest of which the tsar Heraclius often re¬
sided, especially in the summer months.
The royal palace is surrounded by one of
the fortresses, and is separated by a partition-wall
from a number of other houses, which were inha¬
bited by the nobles of the court. It is now in
ruins, and the former audience-chamber is used as
a stable. It, no doubt, was reckoned a spacious and
noble apartment in more ancient times. Major
Ilyinskii has repaired a few low and good vaulted
rooms in its under story for his own accommo¬
dation, in one of which Heraclius died. The win¬
dows of this palace, like those of most of the old
edifices w hich we saw in Georgia, are in the Gothic
style, or rather an approach to it, their tops being
much wider than is common. Adjoining to this
edifice is a low building, which was the court-
chapel. It is now in ruins, and its place is sup¬
plied by a more modern structure close by it. Be¬
hind the fortress is a very strong circular battery,
one half of which is tumbled dow r n, and within
which lies a large cannon, about twelve feet long,
and of very great calibre.
I admired the taste which chose Telav as a resi-
28
VALE OF TELAV.-DEPARTURE.
deuce, for a more beautiful and commanding spot
I have scarcely ever witnessed. The views from
it, when the weather is clear, or generally in the
morning and evening, are highly sublime, On the
north-west it overlooks the vale of Telav, through
which the Alasan flows. This vale is covered with
woods, vineyards, rich pastures, fertile corn-fields,
backed by gentle hills, and those by the Caucasus
rising in grand amphitheatre and mingling with the
clouds.
It extends at least to the distance of fifty or sixty
miles to the right and left of the town, and is finely
intermixed with rich pasture and corn-fields, which
are partitioned by rivulets, trees, and shrubs. It
abounds with small villages, full of inhabitants, who
form the greatest part of the population of the
district of Telav, which amounts to of,000 souls.
The mountain, on whose side the town itself
stands, as well as those by which it is surrounded
on the other sides, are richly covered with luxuriant
foliage.
After breakfast, on Sunday the 25th of June,
according to appointment, our cavalcade was mus¬
tered, and consisted of Count Simonitch, Mr. Gri-
bayedofj Major Ilyinskii, with his translator a
native prince, Russian officers, Kozaks, Georgians,
besides ourselves, amounting to twenty-five indivi¬
duals, all on horseback, and many of us well armed.
Our luggage had been previously sent off under a
guard. After descending the hill on which Telav
THE ALASAN.-YENISELI.
29
is placed, we traversed the fine vale already de¬
scribed, and were met by Prince Georgiadtsof, who,
with a number of his people, came purposely to
conduct us, and to show us the greatest honour;
having the preceding day received notice from
Major Ilyinskii of our intended visit. The Alasan
always flows with great rapidity, and is only ford¬
able when it has not rained for some days. It was
very deep at the time we arrived, but men were
stationed to guide us in the shallowest path, and
the prince himself preceded the line, to show us the
safest ford. We got through without accident,
though the horses kept their legs with some diffi¬
culty. The passage is highly dangerous, as the
only fordable place goes in a zig-zag manner, with
which few are completely acquainted, and many
lives in consequence are annually lost.
A white church, surrounded by trees, and the
ruins of Gremi, described and well represented
in next chapter, upon an insulated hill, gave a
picturesque effect to the delightful scenery around
us, as we entered the village of Yeniseli, which
belongs to Prince Georgiadtsof, the houses in which
resemble those of Telav, with the difference of be¬
ing situated on a plain. Here we dined in a half
Asiatic and half European manner. For our party
a table was covered, and knives and forks, silver
spoons, tumblers, wine-glasses, &c. were pro¬
vided. In lieu of chairs, long benches were used.
Wines, in small earthen jars, and in bottles, were
30
GEORGIAN DINNER.
placed for every guest, and were also handed round
in profusion. The dishes consisted of soup strongly
seasoned with mint, boiled fish, cutlets with mint
sauce, roasted beef, roasted fowls, salad, cucum¬
bers, &c. On a low platform, along the side of the
same room, a number of Georgian princes and
nobles sat cross-legged, and partook of the same
dishes as we did, and they were joined by some of
our party. A kind of flat cake, like immense bis¬
cuits, served them for plates, and they eat with
their fingers in the same way as the Persians. They
drank their wine out of a silver ladle, from which
it was allowed to trickle into their mouths, and
afterwards used immense horns, some of them
mounted with silver, and pledged each other to
empty them, after the manner which prevailed in
our own, as well as in other countries, in more early
times.
One of the Georgian nobles gave us a strong
proof that he was in the habit of using liberal pota¬
tions, for he pledged almost every individual in the
company to empty the horn with him, and he drank
the wine to the last drop. Yet he managed his horse
perfectly well afterwards, though a little merry.
Coffee was now served up. While the party
was occupied, I sallied out, and passing near the
apartments of the Prince’s lady, was addressed by
an old duenna, in Russian, who introduced me to
the Princess and her sister, with whom I had a little
conversation. I afterwards conducted our party.
WINE OF KACHETIA.—PRINCE GEORG lADTSOF. SI
one by one, to this lady, who behaved extremely
well, and like a person who had seen something of
polished life. The Prince, who had received notice
of our visit, met us as we were retiring from
his spouse’s apartments, and, it was evident, was
not well pleased at our curiosity. The whole of
the individuals of the cavalcade were now con¬
ducted to an out-house, which we were told was
the wine-cellar. We looked in vain for the wine,
and upon enquiry were informed that it was buried
in the earth in enormous-sized jars, much larger
than hogsheads or puncheons. Spades were
brought, the earth was cleared away, and the lids
of two of these jars were opened, and the wine
was handed round to the whole party in silver
ladles. A number of peasants, then assembled
around them, and with little earthen jugs they
made ample amends for our deficiency in the drink¬
ing way.
The Kachetians make both red and white wine
of excellent quality. The red we thought equal
to Burgundy, which it greatly resembled.
Prince Georgiadtsof’s revenues amount only to
4000 silver roubles, or about 16,000 paper roubles
of Russia, = nearly #£667 sterling. But in a cheap
country, and in a fruitful territory, this is enough
to enable him to maintain his rank, and to make
a considerable appearance among his countrymen.
His house, which resembles that of a second class
farmer, has a very plain appearance, and is very
32
RUSSIAN CAMP.-KVARELLI.
shabbily furnished. But more attention is paid here
to tine silk dresses, gaudy show, and parade, than to
good houses. In this respect the natives resemble
many of the Russians, who drive their carriages and
four though they have scarcely a room fit to receive
a visitor ; and, although they should go from house
to house, day after day, to dine with their rela¬
tions, friends, and acquaintances, knowing that they
have but poor fare at home. The Georgians, who
do not use carriages, expend their money upon
themselves, and upon fine riding-horses and their
trappings.
Joined by our host, his brother, and some other
nobles, we left Yeniseli, and, after proceeding two
versts farther, we arrived at the wicker-work camp
of a detachment of Russians, who formed a corps
of observation at the base of the Caucasus, ready to
act in case of a descent of the Lesghees. We now
kept by the base of the mountains, passing through
villages surrounded by vineyards, of which Shilda
was the largest, crossing innumerable rills and
streams, and traversing much interesting woodland.
After a ride of eight versts, we reached the
border of the plain, and continued our road to
Kvarelli. Here there is a square and well built
fortress, which had something noble in its ap¬
pearance from its magnitude, and seemed to date
its origin in antiquity from the style of its archi¬
tecture.
Our cavalcade took up its lodgings for the night
KVARELLI.
83
in the ruins of a large house belonging to Prince
Tchavtchavadtsof. We ascended by a stair, and
then by a ladder, to an open gallery, in which sup¬
per was served up to the whole assembly, in the
Georgian fashion. Wine circulated freely, and
was liberally partaken of by the natives. Some of
the cavalcade slept in the gallery alluded to. Our
party were lodged in a small miserable room, and
we made our beds on the floor, with the assistance
of some hay and our burchas.
VOL. II.
n
CHAP, XIV.
DEPARTURE FROM KVARELLI.— GREMI CASTLE. — SHACKRIAN1.
—LALISKURI. —GEORGIAN FEMALES. — THE TUSHINTSI. —
ALVAN.—ALAVERDI.—RETURN TO TELAV AND MUCHROVAN.
— FESTIVAL.—RETURN TO TIFLIS.— AN AVALANCHE. — GUL-
DENSTAEDT’s TRAVELS.—THE CAUCASUS A FINE FIELD FOR A
TRAVELLER’S RESEARCHES.-THE MILITARY LINES OF DE¬
FENCE IN THE CAUCASUS.—INHUMAN CONDUCT TOWARD THE
MOUNTAINEERS. — NEW FORTRESSES. — COLONISATION IN
GEORGIA.—MORTALITY OF GEORGIAN ARMY. — RUSSIAN
POLICY.-INROAD OF THE MOUNTAINEERS. - ARMY OF THE
CAUCASUS AND GEORGIA. — RUSSIAN AGGRANDISEMENT. -
PLANS FOR ITS ACCOMPLISHMENT.—STATE OF PERSIA.—PRO¬
BABLE CONDUCT OF RUSSIA. — INVASION OF INDIA.- SIR
Robert wilson’s opinion. — Buonaparte’s opinion. —
OPINIONS OF OTHERS. - CONQUEST OF TURKEY. -BUONA-
PARTE’S OPINION.—POPULARITY OF IN RUSSIA.—THE GREAT
DUKE CONSTANTINE. - THE ROYAL FAMILY OF GEORGIA. -
ALEXANDER MIRZA, HEREDITARY PRINCE OF GEORGIA.
On the 26th June we left Kvarelli, and returned
ome versts by the same road by which we had
DEPARTURE PIIOM KVARELL1.—GREMI CASTLE. 35
reached it. We then directed our course, through
the plain of Telav, to the ruins of Gremi. This
ancient fortress occupies an insulated woody hill,
as is well seen in the romantic view in the opposite
vignette. It includes an old church, built in the
same style of architecture as those of Tiffis and
Ananoor, and, besides, has a separate belfry.
This church is in a ruinous condition, and its in¬
terior is in wretched order; but service is regu¬
larly performed within its walls. The belfry is
now difficult of ascent, but the charming prospect
enjoyed from its summit repays the labour. Be¬
hind the church are the ruins of another fortress,
upon a high mountain, whose oblique strata are well
seen through scattered trees, and backed by the
lofty range of the Caucasus. A crystal rivulet
runs in the valley below, and adds great beauty to
the scene.
We were told that Leon, the tsar of Kachetia,
was interred in the church of Gremi.
All around the hill on which the castle is placed,
we saw numerous ruins of walls, arches, and cara¬
vanserais ; and, we were informed, that formerly
thousands of Jews dwelt here. According to
Guldenstaedt, this was the town of Gremi which
had numerous churches. *
Passing the village of Nikolaevka, we reached
* Reize durch Russland, und im Caucasischen Geburge,
vol. i. p. 240 .
D
o
30
SHACKRIANI. —LALISKUIU.
Shackriani, which belongs to Prince Georgiadtsof,
the brother of the Prince at whose house we dined
on the preceding day, and who met us there, and
conducted us hither. His house was simply en¬
closed by a high wattled fence, including a large
court before it, and had not a more imposing appear¬
ance than his brother’s. Here we breakfasted.
Vodtki, boiled and roasted fowls, cucumbers,
onions, bread, butter, and cheese, formed the prin¬
cipal part of our meal, of which the whole caval¬
cade partook, as well as of the wine, which was
offered in great profusion, in tumblers, ladles, and
pitchers. Pursuing our route, not far from the
base of the Caucasus, through most agreeable
scenery, we arrived at Sanitori, the estate of Prince
Avalof, where we dined exactly in the same style
as on the preceding day.
We had not proceeded many versts on our way,
when Laliskuri, a small estate, with an indifferent
house upon it, came into view, and we were met
by its proprietor, Prince Tchelokaofj who invited
us to pay him a visit. We ascended a stair, and
were somewhat astonished at being presented to
the Princess, a fine woman, with aquiline nose, and
most interesting features and demeanour. Like the
other Georgian nobles, she was dressed in wide flow¬
ing silks j but, insteadof wearing the long waist, usual
in her country, which altogether spoils the figure,
she was dressed in the most approved European
fashion. This was the only instance in which we
GEORGIAN FEMALES.-THE TUSIlJNTSf. 37
were allowed to see any of the Georgian ladies
openly. At other houses we visited, they were
always shut up in their own chambers, which are
reckoned sacred. And, as for the common women,
they are the most disagreeable I have ever seen. I
refer more especially to those at Tiflis, whom
there is no difficulty, now-a-days, in seeing. They
dress in the most slovenly manner, and, I believe,
through a proper want of delicacy, expose the upper
part of the body in a very disgusting manner, espe¬
cially the old women. Their clothes, or rather
rags, besides, are generally in a filthy state. In
Georgia we certainly saw some of the most beau¬
tiful, and some of the most disgusting, females in
existence.
Travelling on, we were soon joined by the chief
of one of the most savage of the tribes of the Cau¬
casus, the Tushintsi, whose territories we were
now approaching. His name was also Prince Tche-
lokaof, and lie had come some versts to meet us.
One of our cavalcade, who had advanced before
us, and was very short-sighted, suddenly came
upon a party of these ferocious mountaineers, who
were watching some property, which they were
carrying towards the defiles of the mountains.
Whether it was honestly acquired, or the booty of
some incursion, it became us not too curiously to
enquire. On seeing the intruder, they immediately
seized their loaded muskets, and questioned him in
a language to which he could make little reply.
d 3
38
AI.VAN.— ALAVF.RD1.
Our party coming up, the translator, aware of some
misunderstanding, galloped to the Tusluntsi, and
gave an explanation which satisfied them. This
fact demonstrated that they were not on bad terms
either with the Georgians or the Russians, or that
they acted politically, knowing that the chief of
the district of Telav was at hand, and had it
in his power to have ordered two large packages,
which were in sight, to have been seized by our
guards.
Just before reaching the resting-place of the
Tushintsi, we passed a beautifully wooded high hill,
with the ruins of a castle upon it, with an adjoining
church, once a place of some consequence, having
been the residence of one of the tsars of Kachetia;
but it is now deserted.
We now turned to the plain of Alvan, and passed
the ruins of the palace of Leon, just alluded to,
said to be a very ancient structure, and it appears
to have been of considerable size.
We re-crossed the Alasan; and, turning to the
west, followed its course, and reached the fortress
and monastery of Alaverdi. Being in good repair,
it affords an excellent specimen of Georgian archi¬
tecture. We were cordially welcomed to this mo¬
nastery by Epiphanius, its archimandrite; and a
supper, of not less than a dozen dishes, in the Rus¬
sian style, was presented, and wine served up in
profusion. Our own party had a small room allotted
for them, while the rest of the cavalcade sought
RETURN TO TELAV AND MUCHIiOVAN.—FESTIVAL. 39
quarters throughout the apartments of the convent,
which were very numerous.
On the 27th June, we amused ourselves in ex-
amining Alaverdi, a name which is derived from
the Arabic words equal to Deodonnatus , or the
Don-Dieu of the French. The monastery and for¬
tress were built 1200 years ago. Its walls are very
high, and of considerable strength. It is situated
in an immense plain, as described at Telav, and is
said to be built on buffalo-hides, the situation being
marshy. It now contains but few monks. The cathe¬
dral church is in the form of a cross, with a cupola
nearly in its centre, and its walls are of hewn-stone,
which they have had the bad taste to white-wash.
Its interior is very mean, The view from its sum¬
mit, which we gained by passing through a labyrinth
of galleries, is very fine.
After breakfast we had a pleasant ride through
the valley, and reached Telav in a very short time,
where we passed the remainder of the day. On
the 28 th June we retraced our way to Muchrovan,
so as to be present at the name’s-day of Colonel
Yermolof (St. Peter’s) on the 29th, having dined
at Gambora in our way.
As is usual with the Russians, the first part of
the day was kept with great solemnity, and the
latter with mirth, All the officers of the regiment,
as well as all the persons of our cavalcade who re¬
mained with us, offered their congratulations in the
morning. Divine service was performed in a tent
u 4
40 FESTIVAL.-RETURN TO TIFL1S.-AN AVALANCHE.
in a neighbouring valley, which was crowded with
officers and men. From the heat of the day, the
sun being very powerful, and the blaze of innu¬
merable candles, the church became intolerably
hot. I felt almost suffocated; yet the Russians,
who are accustomed to breathe extremely rarefied
air in their warm chambers, seemed to suffer but
little or no inconvenience.
We had an excellent dinner, and among other
dishes partook of a small kind of beautiful antelope,
here called the Giran, which is common among
the mountains of Georgia. Ice-creams were served
up also, and were highly relished in an oppressively
warm afternoon, and showed that the Russians
were not inattentive to the luxuries of life here
more than in their own country.
In the evening we reached. Tifiis, where we passed
the following day. While perambulating the town,
we were met by a captain of the Russian army,
who had. been of our party from Mozdok to Vladi¬
kavkaz, and who informed us of news which we
had heard some talk of at Muchrovan; viz. that part
of the mountain on the east side of the Terek, and
near Dariel, had fallen down and completely ob¬
structed the defile of the Caucasus, and that Gene¬
ral Wilyeminof had, in consequence, issued orders
that nobody should be allowed to depart for the
north. This avalanche, as they called it, had
taken place on the 23 d June, only nine days after
our passage, so that we had cause to be thank-
AN AVALANCHE. — GULDENSTAKDT’s TRAVELS. 41
ful to Providence that we had escaped. Luckily,
when the accident happened, no travellers were
near, and no lives were lost. At General Wilye-
minof’s, where we dined, we learned that many
people had been employed, for ten days, in clearing
the passage of the Terek, and in rendering the
road practicable. On mentioning that we had
heard that the general had issued an iikdz to pre¬
vent. travellers proceeding through the Via Cauca¬
sia, he said he would give a special order for our
passage anil accommodation. This I called a
counter-uhdz , to the no small amusement of the
company, and it greatly solaced us. On the
same day, informing the commandant of our wish
to return to Moscow, and begging him to make all
due arrangements, lie answered that he had positive
orders to allow no person to depart for the Cau¬
casus ; but, on being told of the general’s orders,
the aspect of affairs was changed.
I may here remark, that the traveller in this
part of Georgia, should be provided with Gulden-
staedt’s “ Reise durch Russland, and ini Cauca-
sischen Geburge because, though tediously, and
often uselessly minute, it contains much very cu¬
rious and important information. This author,
who belonged to the St. Petersburgh Academy,
had excellent opportunities of making just and
extensive observations in Georgia. After traversing
the south of Russia, he reached Astrachan, and
then Kishir, on the Terek, and a frontier town of
42
THE CAUCASUS A FINE FIELD
which he has given a plan and a detailed descrip¬
tion. He made different visits into the north-east
parts of the Caucasus, by the course of the
Sundja, &c.; Kislar being his head-quarters. In
1771, he made some trips in the country of the
Ossetinians, and to the hot baths on the banks of
the Terek, and visited the northern part of the
Caucasian mountains, which is inhabited by the
Dugores. He then crossed this mountain-chain,
with a strong guard of Ossetinians, whom the tsar
Heraclius had taken into his pay. On his arrival
in Georgia, he was received in the most flattering
manner by that sovereign, whom he afterwards
accompanied in a campaign along the course of
the Koor. At different periods he visited Kache-
tia, Imeretia, Mingrelia, &c.; always accompanied
by a formidable guard, sometimes consisting of 300
or 400 men. Subsequently, he returned to Russia,
visited the baths at the Beshtau, and reached
Petersburgh.
In these days, when so many gentlemen show a
disposition for travelling and adventure, one may
be justly surprised that no individual from Great
Britain ever has travelled far in Caucasus, or
given us a good account of the tribes by which
this mountain-chain is inhabited, their customs,
manners, laws, &c. The greatest part of what
we know of the Caucasus and its inhabitants,
as wel 1 as of Georgia, has been chiefly derived
from the Germans, Gmelin, Guldenstaedt, Pallas,
FOR A TRAVELLER’S RESEARCHES.
43
Reineggs, Bieberstein, Englehardt, Parrot, Haas,
Klaproth, See.
Perhaps there is not a spot upon the globe
which would yield such a rich harvest to an
adventurous traveller, as Mount Caucasus, pro¬
vided he devoted a few years to its examination and
study, and possessed a general knowledge of the
sciences and of human nature, so as to be able to
turn every circumstance to good account. But in
order to reap all the possible advantages of such a
tour and residence among the mountains, a person
would require to make considerable preparations.
He should secure a collection of plans, maps,
engravings, and books, so as to be familiar with
what has already been done by others. It would
be requisite for him to learn the Tartar; and if he
had some knowledge of the Persian and of the
Russian, so much the (letter. The vocabularies
of the different languages of the tribes of the
mountains, given in Klaproth’s “ Voyage an Mont
Caucase ,” would be found of great utility. If he
wished to make meteorological, trigonometrical, or
barometrical observations, of course he would carry
all his instruments from England. He would do
well to reside a year at Tiflis, learning languages,
gaining every information from others, and making
all due preparations for his journeys. This town,
Vladikavkaz, Mozdok, Kislar, or Derbent, might
be made, at different times, his head-quarters, to
which he could return with the fruits of his
excursions.
44
THE CAUCASUS A FINE FIELI>
Whoever undertook such a scheme, would do
well to think it a task of three, four, or five years’
duration, so as to he able to give a good and
faithful account of the geography, topography,
and productions of the country, &c. ; and of the
manners and customs of the various tribes of
mountaineers. I should suppose the protection of
the Russian government would be readily obtained
for such an undertaking. If obtained, then, no
doubt, the traveller would be provided with strong-
escorts, by order of the governor-general of
Georgia; and with them he might penetrate the
mountains both on the north and south, to a short
distance, and so acquire a general knowledge of
the people whom he wished to study. But in
order to get a complete acquaintance, it would
be necessary for him, afterwards, when he could
speak Tartar, to go into the interior of the Cau¬
casus, and live among the barbarians. This may
appear a strange advice to those unacquainted with
the rigid adherence which these demi-savages
observe to the laws of hospitality, and the care
they take of the stranger who intrusts them with
his life. This virtue they call Kunak , and he
who puts himself under their protection, is safe
from outrage: he will be defended by his guide,
and will never be allowed to depart without an escort,
and being committed to the hands of safe allies. *
* Vide Pallas, vol. ii. p. 138. Letters from the Caucasus,
p. 46. Klaproth, vol. i. p. 408.
FOlt A TRAVELLER’S RESEARCHES.
■15
A good drawer would find infinite occupation
tor his pencil, not only in sketching the fine Al¬
pine scenery with which he would be conti¬
nually surrounded; but likewise in representing
the natives in their various costumes, both pea¬
sants and chiefs. At General Hofen’s, at Tiflfs,
w r e saw above forty portraits of the tribes of
Caucasus, painted in oil colours; and although
they were not well executed, yet they gave a good
idea of the natives and their costumes, and
showed what a good painter might do. From
different accounts we received, there is reason to
believe that many tribes of the Caucasus are yet
unknown, and perhaps have never been seen by
an European. Shut up in their inaccessible fast¬
nesses in the interior of the Caucasian Alps, in
deep valleys, and in the caverns of the rocks,
beyond which they have never wandered, and into
which strangers have never penetrated, generation
succeeds generation, in all the primitive rudeness
of nature.
A gentleman of my acquaintance, who is versed
in Persian, knows something of Tartar, and be¬
sides, has devoted a number of years to the study
of the mountain-tribes, and of the geography of
the Caucasus, and the neighbouring countries, has
proposed to give up his attention entirely to the
natives, and to travel across the mountain-chain
in different directions. I am confident that the
individual alluded to will be able to communicate
iG THE MILITARY LINES OF DEFENCE
much novel information to the public ; but it will
be impossible for him to speak his mind freely,
unless he quit the Russian service ; indeed, unless
he bid Russia adieu. This gentleman is also
very capable of giving some important details
respecting the operations of the Russians since
their arrival in Georgia; or rather since this
country formed a province of Russia.
Before quitting Tiflis, I shall turn the reader’s
attention to the plans of Russia, her army, and
her politics.
The Military Line of Defence on the north of
the Caucasus, begins at Taman, and is composed
of the fortresses and redoubts described in our
route, as far as Mozdok. As our road did not
lead by the base of the mountains between that
town and Stavropole, we did not visit a number of
other forts, as Protchnoi-Okope, Temnolesk, &c.
They add considerably to the strength of the line,
which at this part is neither protected by the Kuban
nor the Terek. From Mozdok, the line of the Cau¬
casus follows the Terek (on which account it is
often called the line of the Terek) to Kislar, and
from thence to the shores of the Caspian Sea.
The military stations, indicated on my map,
along this part of the line, are Ivalyugaevskaya,
Istchorskaya, Naur, Kalinovskaya, Tchervlens-
kaya, Stchedrinskaya, Novagladkovskaya, Staro-
gladkovskaya, Kargalinskaya, &c. &c. The length
IN THE CAUCASUS.
1'7
of the Caucasian Line *, from Taman on the Black
Sea, to the shores of the Caspian, is nearly 1,000
versts, or 6 G 7 miles. By its fortresses and its
guards, it prevents all communication between
Asia and Europe, except through those who have
regular passports, or by hostile invaders. Along
such an extensive line it is next to impossible to
prevent the frequent predatory incursions of the
mountain tribes, who have an inveterate antipathy
to the Russians, and delight in doing them every
kind of injury.
The southern line of defence of the Caucasus,
runs from the Black Sea through the provinces of
Abasii, Mingrelia, Imeretia, Kartalinia, Kachetia,
Lesghistan, Shekinskoye, Shirvan, and Apsheron;
or from Suhum-Kale, on the Euxine, to Baku on
the Caspian ; and, like the northern line, it is well
guarded. The ferocious tribes, however, of the
neighbouring regions, especially the Lesghees,
make continual incursions into Georgia, and do
great damage, and carry off much booty. They
rush like a torrent from the defiles of the Cau¬
casus, seize their prey, and retreat to their fast¬
nesses before any sufficient military force can be
brought to act against them.
From Baku to Derbent and Kislar, by the
western shores of the Caspian, another line of
* The line of the Caucasus is very particularly described
in the great Geographical Dictionary of Russia.
18 INHUMAN CONDUCT TO THE MOUNTAINEERS.
defence is also formed, although less wanted; and
the forts of which scarcely need to be guarded.
Thus the range of the Caucasian mountains is
completely surrounded by fortresses and guards,
except on that part, by the eastern border of the
Euxine, between Suhum-Kale and Anapa.
The great principle upon which the Caucaso-
Georgian army has been acting for many years,
but especially of late, has been to hem in the
mountain barbarians on all sides; and this has
been accomplished by means equally unjustifiable
in the eyes of God and man. Indeed, the heart
revolts with horror at the plans which have been
pursued by those who deserve not the name of
men, in order, as they emphatically speak, “ to
civilise the barbarous mountaineers of the Caucasus.”
Troops surround their villages, the signal is given,
and they are soon in a blaze. Then commences
the cruel, the bloody, and the murderous attack,—
the general massacre. At times all perish, young
and old; men, women, and children, between the
flames and the sword. I have seen two children
of the Lesghee tribe, who were the only survivors
of such a scene, and who were saved by an officer
who snatched them from death, and is now rearing
them, as if they were his own progeny, among
the mountains of Georgia. At the house of an¬
other officer, another boy, a Tushints , (I believe)
was often presented to us, as the sole repre¬
sentative of a hamlet now no more. The village
INHUMAN CONDUCT TO THE MOUNTAINEERS. 1-9
was burned, and its inhabitants immolated. This
mode of civilisation, by total extermination, is one
peculiar to Russia. I shall not readily forget my
sensations on examining a penned map of a part
of Georgia, and asking the officer to whom it
belonged, “ what the numerous red marks, espe¬
cially in the country of the Lesghees, alluded to,”
when he triumphantly replied, “ these red spots
indicate the sites of the villages which we burned
after our various victorious engagements with the
savage natives.”
A very intelligent friend, for whose opinions I
have the highest regard, after a perusal of this
part of the MS., wrote the following remarks on
the margin. As he also travelled in Georgia, I
was happy that he did so, as I should rejoice to
have an opportunity of correcting any mistaken
impressions of my own. “ This would imply,”
says he, “ that massacres are of common occur¬
rence. If they are, you should state the instances
which induce you to think so.”—“ I think this is
quite as unfair an attack on the Russians as ever
was made by Dr. Clarke; and unless you can
state very accurately the particular instances on
which you found so heavy an accusation, I strongly
advise its omission. The only instances I ever
heard of were those of retaliation for acts of
spoliation, for which the Lesghees or others
refused all compensation : a cruel retaliation I
grant, but by no means deserving what you say of
VOL. n. E
50 INHUMAN CONDUCT TO THE MOUNTAINEERS.
it.”—“ The same tiling was done by the French
in the south of Italy, in the villages of the banditti;
and the severity of the measure was justified by
the necessity. Qusere, whether this was not the
case in the instances you allude to ? If, as I sus¬
pect, Avhat you here assert is founded upon one or
two instances of the destruction of villages with
fire and sword, and those in some degree justified
by the particular circumstances of the case, be¬
ware of* a charge of exaggeration and unfairness
which such a statement as this would fairly incur.
At all events, the data do not justify the inference
you draw.” I have not altered the text, believing
that it, and other similar statements I heard, fully
justify my conclusions and severity. The reader
will grant, at least, that I have no wish to make a
wilful misrepresentation, after the admission of
my friend’s remarks into this volume ; and future
events, I fear, will develop that I am too correct,
unless shame should operate upon the Russian
government, now that it finds some of its measures
widely subjected to public opinion. Meantime, I
may add, that the gifted lady who translated
Madame Freyganch’s work, adds a note of consi¬
derable importance, to the following sentence : —
“ The Ossetinians, particularly, are intrepid and
hardy as Spartans; it is, therefore, an indispens¬
able policy for Russia to foment divisions among
them.” “ The very vigorous policy of the Russian
government,” says the translator, “ towards the
NEW FORTRESSES.
51
various tribes of Caucasus and Georgia, thus
partly acknowledged by our fair author, has lately
been represented as rivalling that of their Turkish
neighbours, in an undaunted freedom from all
those scruples, which are the boasted distinction of
our own administration.” *
Of late a number of new fortresses have been
constructed on the south side of the Caucasian
mountains, respecting which I could not obtain
any distinct account; and perhaps it may be a
part of the policy of the government to conceal
from the world what is going on in those regions.
General Yermolof’s severe policy may suit the
ambitious spirit of Russia, but is not calculated to
unite the virtues of humanity and bravery ; the
highest meed of praise a warrior can receive.
He may delude himself with the propriety of the
most cruel measures to narrow the range of the
predatory excursions of the mountain tribes, but
he may rest assured, that public opinion will brand
his name with infamy for his deeds, as well as
that of the monarch who permits them, now that
they are fully exposed.” t
I have already alluded to a caravan of women
who were ordered from Russia to join their
husbands in Georgia t, and we met another on
* Translation of Lettres sur le Caucase, &c. p. 66.
f Vide Courier and Morning Chronicle of 17th Jan. 1S24.
J Vide p. 458 of Vol. I.
E 2
52 MORTALITY OF THE GEORGIAN ARMY.
our return from the south. The mortality of the
Russian army in Georgia is enormous; and it is
not uncommon for one-third of a regiment to be
in the hospitals. Like many other places equally
fatal to them, as the Krimea and Moldavia,
Georgia has, with justice, been called “ The ceme¬
tery of the Russian army for it appears evident,
that the descendants of the Scythians, as they
boast themselves to be, cannot support a warm
climate; and, no doubt, had Paul attempted to
carry an army to Persia, and from thence to India,
the heat would have proved as disastrous to it, as
the northern cold did to the troops of Charles the
Xllth, and those of the ex-emperor Napoleon.
Intermittent fevers — to which the Russians are
subject, and in many places proverbially so, as
at Moscow and Georgievsk*—carry off the soldiers
by hundreds. Marsh miasmata and very frequent
indulgence in new wine may be reckoned among
the chief causes, or at least predisposing causes, of
those fevers.
“The views,” sa^s Colonel Johnston, “ofRus¬
sia with regard to Georgia, seem to tend towards
establishing it as an entrepot for European com¬
modities ; as a mart for the produce of the sur¬
rounding countries; and, in particular, for the
supply of Persia and Turkey. To prepare for
realising these views, men of abilities have been
* Vide p. 419.
COLONISATION.-RUSSIAN POLICY. .58
employed in traversing the country, and in ascer¬
taining the most eligible lines of communication
between Georgia and the Black Sea on one side,
and the Caspian on the other ; availing themselves,
as far as may be practicable, of the course of the
rivers.” * These are laudable objects ; and so far
both the government and General. Yermolof de¬
serve praise; but other pursuits seem to be in
serious agitation, as we shall see presently.
As General Yermolof apparently wishes, by all
possible means, to consolidate a great and per¬
manent Russian force in Georgia, he has ordered
the caravans of women alluded to, to be transported
hither, for the purpose of raising a new progeny
on the spot; who, in time, may replace their
forefathers, and be as hardy as the natives;
thus, as it were, forming a kind of military co¬
lonies. t
The highlanders of the Caucasus cannot be ig¬
norant of General Yermolof’s plans; and it ap¬
pears that they wish to resist them as far as they
can ; but, in England, we hear but little of what
passes in those distant and mountainous regions.
The following extract from a letter dated Nu-
remburg, April 14th, 1824, which has appeared
in many of the newspapers of this country, suffi¬
ciently establishes the truth of the above remarks.
* A Journey from India to England, p. 248.
f Vide “ An Account of the Organisation, Administration,
and Present State of the Military Colonies in Russia,” 1824.
54 INROAD OF MOUNTAINEERS. — GEORGIAN ARMY.
“ A statement in the Russian papers has been
read with some surprise, that the Emperor Alex¬
ander, to reward the bravery which several officers
have shown in the actions that have taken place
with the Nomad tribes beyond the Cuban and
Daghistan, has granted them various honourable
distinctions. This is the first time that this war
has been heard of in Europe, which seems to have
been kept a profound secret. However this be,
the cabinet of St. Petersburg must have considered
the event as of some importance ; since, besides
the insignia of different orders which have been
given away, swords and sabres mounted with gold
have been given, bearing the inscription, ‘ To
Valour.’ The sword which General Weljaminef
III. received, was enriched with diamonds. These
marks of honour, which are bestowed only on
extraordinary occasions, are not conferred by the
chapters of the Russian orders, but immediately
by the emperor.”
The Caucasian and Georgian army has been
variously estimated. In the first number of
the Westminster Review, it is stated as low as
60,000, and by the translator of “ Letters from the
Caucasus,” in a note, p. 64, as high as 130,000
men. During our travels, I had various conversa¬
tions on this point with different officers, some of
whom estimated it at only 60,000, while others
assured me that it amounted to above 100,000
soldiers. Perhaps the medium number of 80,000
RUSSIAN AGGRANDISEMENT AND PLANS.
55
would be near the reality, and of that number
above .'50,000 are in Georgia; hence the import¬
ance of the other European powers giving serious
attention to this quarter of the globe, especially
after the open display of the ambition which Russia
has made to encroach upon Persia, as in 1812,
when she added the khanats of Talishin and Kara-
bagh to her territories. As will be seen by a very
important document in the next chapter, Russia
holds Persia very low in the scale of nations, and
is persuaded, that, by a single effort, Tabreez, and
probably the whole kingdom, would fall into her
power.
Nothing is more evident than the plans of ambi¬
tion which Russia is calmly and steadfastly pursuing
in her southern provinces. Sir R. K. Porter tells
us, that she now commands the whole of the north,
and the greater part of the western shore of the
Caspian. The disadvantage she formerly laboured
under, of having no means of introducing her
articles of trade, received from China and western
Tartary, by any nearer route to the south-western
markets of her own empire than via Astrachan and
Moscow, is now removed, by the judicious and
cunning management of the governor-general of
Georgia, who, three years ago, entered into a treaty
of mutual accommodation with the chiefs of the
Turcoman tribes possessing the eastern shores of
the Caspian, and whose territories and influence ex¬
tend to both Bucharias. “As a preliminary to
E 4
56
PLANS OF RUSSIAN AGGRANDISEMENT.
these, and many other important consequences,
Russia was a considerable gainer in extension of
territory to the south, by the articles of peace
signed in 1813, which gave her the command of
several entrances into the kingdom of Persia, on its
northern frontier •, and, in the event of a struggle
for the crown, would enable her ‘ to take the gate,’
and decide the conquest according to her own judg¬
ment. ” *
By two public letters, it is evident that Russia is
doing every thing to increase her popularity and
connections in the East. I shall quote them both
verbatim :—
“ St. Petersburg/!,, June 23, 1824.
“ His Majesty has recompensed the seven Sul¬
tans of the Kirghis tribes, who are here as deputies,
for their attachment and fidelity to the Russian
government, by giving them gold medals and gilt
swords, and conferring on them the eighth rank of
nobility.”
“ St. Petersburg/!, July 7> 1824.
“ The seven Sultans, or the Khans of the
Kirghis, who have been here as deputies since the
month of November, set out yesterday on their re¬
turn home, accompanied by the officers appointed
to attend them, by the Governor-general of West
* Travels in Georgia, Persia, &c. p. 511.
PLANS OF RUSSIAN AGGRANDISEMENT. .57
Siberia. During their stay here they resided in a
house belonging to the government, and were main¬
tained at its expence. On the 1st of the month
they had an audience of Count Nesselrode, Mi¬
nister of Foreign Affairs, when they received their
new code of laws, drawn up in the Russian and
Kirghisian languages, which lays down the basis of
their future relations to the Russian empire, as a
Nomad tribe, tributary to it, and under its pro¬
tection.”
By the public press, we also remark, that his
Imperial Majesty has just been received by the
Kalmucks in their kibitkas *, and seems to wish to
possess their confidence.
From all I have read, heard, and seen of Gene¬
ral Yermolof’s plans, of course sanctioned 'by his
government, I should suppose that his great objects
are, 1st, To have a very powerful and hardy army
in the Caucasus and Georgia, to be employed ac¬
cording to circumstances; 2d, To diminish, by all
possible means, the power of the inhabitants of the
mountains ; 3d, To extend, in the mean time, the
dominions of Georgia by encroachments upon Per¬
sia ; 4th, To take advantage of a favourable oppor¬
tunity to attempt the conquest of Persia. These
views will be illustrated in the following chapters.
It is merely necessary to remark here, that beyond
* Vide p, 438 of Vol. I.
all question, General Yennolof’s measures ap¬
pear most determined. No doubt Russia expects,
that on the death of the present Shach of Persia,
there will be a violent and bloody dispute for the
crown. We are told by the latest British author,
who has been in Persia, that the present heir ap¬
parent to this old sceptre of misrule, Abbas Mirza,
is fully aware of its defects; and, should he ever
sway it, will render the stubborn iron, softened
under the father’s hand, more malleable in his own.
In that case, the benign dispositions, integrity of
mind, and happy talents for empire, with which
heaven has marked out this extraordinary Asiatic
prince, are likely to be assisted by the gradual im¬
portation of just European principles, brought by
the continual influx, and passing to and fro of the
natives of British, Russian, and other Christian go¬
vernments in this country, all of whom uncon¬
sciously prepare the people of Persia, with whom
they mingle, to understand the value of equitable
laws, and of a sovereign likely to establish them. *
Sir R. K. Porter, after alluding to some improve¬
ments made by Abbas Mirza, adds, “ The Schah,
whose natural dispositions are not less urbane than
his son’s, approves of whatever he does; and, hav¬
ing pronounced him his heir, contemplates, with a
noble complacency, rare in almost any monarch,
* Travels in Georgia, Persia, &c. &c. By Sir R. K. Porter,
vol. ii. p. 306.
STATE OF PERSIA.
5»)
the hand of his successor sowing the seeds of future
power and greatness. But between the death of
one Persian monarch, and the accession of another,
there is generally so much competition, such civil
war, bloodshed, and assassination, that it is possible
the demise of Futteli Ali Schah, instead of con¬
tinuing a happy tranquillity, may again throw open
the temple of Janus ; Mahmoud Ali Mirza having
threatened to dispute the throne with his brother;
and, in that case, the issue being doubtful, the now
emerging civilisation of the people may again be
cast back into all the barbarism of long civil
broils.” *
Yet some fear those hopes of the prosperous re¬
sults of Abbas Mirza’s ascending the throne are
visionary, and that the Shach, by an act of intended
parental munificence, has unwittingly “ sown the
teeth of the Hydra,” in having established so many
of his royal progeny in different parts of the empire,
with each his separate court, treasury, and army.
Others, again, do not apprehend annoyance to the
heir from any of those princes, excepting him, who,
from the first, cast down his gauntlet. The list of
their governments is variously stated by Colonel
Johnson, Sir R. K. Porter, and an anonymous
writer in Blackwood's Magazine for last August.
* Travels in Georgia, Persia, &c. &c. By Sir R. K. Porter,
vol. ii. p.507.
i)0 STATE OF PERSIA. -CONDUCT OF RUSSIA.
I shall here copy Sir 11. K. Porter’s list, and
also give it as corrected by the anonymous writer :
Mahmoud Ali Mirza, Governor
of Kermanshah.
Abbas Mirza
-
- Azerbijan.
Abdoolah Mirza
-
- Zenjan.
Houssein Ali Mirza
-
- Shiraz.
Ali Nackee Mirza -
-
- Casvin.
Hassan Ali Mirza -
-
- Ghilan.
Mahmoud Kouli Mirza -
-
- Khorasan.
Mahmoud Tuekeh Mirza
-
- Boorojird.
Ali Shah Mirza
-
- Teheran.
Sheik Ali Mirza -
-
- Chumeen.
Corrected List .
Mahommed Allee Meerza, Governor of Kermanshah.
Abbas Meerza
-
- Azerbyjan.
Abdoolah Meerza -
-
- Zenjan.
Hoossein Allee Meerza -
-
- Sheeraz.
Allee Nakee Meerza
-
- Casvin.
Hassan Allee Meerza
-
- Khorassan.
Mahommed Koolee Meerza
-
- Mazanderan.
Mahommed Tukeh Meerza
-
- Boorojird.
Allee Shah Meerza
-
- Teheran.
Sheik Allee Meerza
-
- Chumeen.
Besides these sons, deemed of sufficient age to
sustain such high civil authorities, his majesty has
many younger, numbering in all thirty-nine. His
daughters amount to one hunch ed and forty.
Russia, with her usual concealed and crafty
policy, no doubt, will await the death of the Shach,
when the contest between his heir apparent, Abbas
Mirza, and the oldest son Mahomed Ali, is likely
to be violent, bloody, and protracted. Besides
CONDUCT OF RUSSIA.-INVASION OF INDIA. Gl
these two, others of the Shach’s sons may make
pretensions to the whole, or to a part, of the Per¬
sian kingdom. Russia will act here, as she did for¬
merly with respect to the Krimea and Georgia. She
will foment all disagreement, and most likely sup¬
port the weak against the strong for a time, or take
part with the most potent, on condition of becom¬
ing the cunning protector of Persia, a sure fore¬
runner of a harder grasp at total possession.
Once in possession of Persia, her next plans of
mad ambition would extend to India, as well as to
Turkey. As for the latter country, it seems likely
that a new power will soon be in a state to become
its conqueror and its protector, and a Greek Em¬
peror may yet have his residence within the walls
of ancient Byzantium.
With respect to the invasion of India, some indi¬
viduals have been of opinion that it would be a
very simple process, either for France, in conjunc¬
tion with Persia, or for Russia alone to accomplish.
We are told by Sir Robert Wilson, that “ ten
thousand Kozaks, during Paul’s reign, were ordered
to join the army destined for the invasion of India.
They were actually on the march to the frontiers,
when that monarch ceased to exist. Amongst the
Kozaks there was no dislike to a service from which
they know Thomas Kouli Khan returned with a
spoil of nearly sixty millions sterling, and which
has been described, with truth, rather as a party of
pleasure than an expedition of war; nor could they
ij‘2 sir it. Wilson’s and Buonaparte’s opinion.
dread a want of sustenance through a country
where 1,000,000 camels may be procured for forty
shillings a-head ; lOOlbs. of wheat for fifteen pence ;
as much salt for two-pence ; an ox, from 600 cwt.
to 800 cwt. for twenty shillings; and a sheep of
SOOlbs. for four shillings ; but they dreaded those
bad arrangements which impede Russian success,
and which, more than the forces of Persia, have
hitherto resisted their Asiatic progress.” *
It is reported to have been a part of Buonaparte’s
own plans to take possession of India; and, if we can
give credit to the following quotations, he thought
it would be no difficult affair for Russia to become
its conqueror.
Buonaparte says, “ I was beforehand with Eng¬
land, in sending an ambassador to Persia to make
interest there. Since that time, your ministers have
been imbeciles enough to allow the Russians to get
four provinces, which increase their territories be¬
yond the mountains. The first year of war that
you will have with the Russians, they will take India
from you.” t —“ In the evening the Emperor again
resumed his geographical observations. He dwelt
particularly on Asia, on the situation of Russia, and
the facility with which the latter power might make
an attempt on India, or even on China, and the
alarm which she might, therefore, justly excite in
* Character and Composition of the Russian army, &c. p.
3t-5.
f O’Meara’s Napoleon in Exile, vol. i. p. 381.
OTIIEK OPINIONS ABOUT INVASION OP INDIA. 63
the English. He calculated the number of troops
that Russia might employ, their probable point of
departure, the route they would be likely to pursue,
and the wealth they would obtain in such an enter¬
prise.” *
It has been urged in opposition to the foregoing opi¬
nions, that though a small and well disciplined army
might obtain military possession of Persia, it would
not be so easy to retain it for any length of time ;
that their magazines could not be replenished;
that the natives, of whom one half have no fixed
habitations, would withdraw to a distance from the
military positions of the enemy, and that his forag¬
ing parties would be invariably swept off by the
clouds of irregular cavalry, who live chiefly by
plunder, and who are more formidable when broken
and dispersed into small parties, than when united
in large bodies; that the strong holds of Persia,
which he would necessarily seize, are the provinces
of Ghilan and Mazanderaun, which are the most
unhealthy ; and it has been concluded there is no
doubt that, in the course of twelve months, sick¬
ness, famine, and the sword, would destroy any
army that France or Russia could send into Persia.
But, supposing Persia to be favourable to the
views of the enemy, and even to assist in the inva¬
sion of India, it would be necessary, in the first
place, to obtain possession of all Khorassan, and
Memorial de Sainte Helene, vol. iv. part 7. p.86.
6‘1< OTHER OPINIONS ABOUT INVASION OP INDIA.
to open a passage to Herat. This is the route that
Alexander took, and the only route, indeed, by
which an army could have the least chance
of entering India, The Great Salt Desert, the
marshes, and rugged mountains of Cohestan, the
arid and naked plains of Rinnan, the moving sands
of Mekran, and all the mountains and dreary wastes
on each side of the Indus, and as far to the east¬
ward of it as Agimere, render any attempt to march
an army through the central provinces of Persia to¬
wards the lower part of the Indus utterly impracti¬
cable. The return of Alexander from Patula, the
modern Tatta, near the mouth of the Indus, to
Persepolis, was sufficiently wonderful, but by
skirting the coast of Mekran, he avoided the
more extensive sandy plains and deserts of the
interior. Yet we are told by Plutarch, that his
army suffered dreadfully ; “ violent distempers, bad
diet, and excessive heats, destroyed multitudes;
but famine made still greater ravages, for it
was a barren and uncultivated country; the na¬
tives lived miserably, having nothing to subsist on
but a few bad sheep, which feed on the fish thrown
up by the sea.” To say nothing of the distance
between Tehraun and Delhi, which exceeds 2000
miles ; of the mountains, ravines, unfordable rivers,
impenetrable forests, the uncultivated state of the
country, the sandy plains, salt lakes, and marshes,
unwholesome winds which blow in places for seve¬
ral months in the year, and the scarcity of water
on almost the whole line, of this march; to say
OPINIONS OF OTIIEItS.
(),5
nothing of the roving tribes which infest every part
of the country through which it would be necessary
to pass, — there arc several very powerful nations,
as the Usbeck Tartars, the Turcomans, the Patans,
and, above all, the Affghans and the Seiks, all of
which must either be conquered or conciliated —
the first of which is not to be expected, the second
not to be depended on. For such expeditions Per¬
sia is not in a state to engage. She has no maga¬
zines, no treasures to support her own armies, far
less a foreign corps, which the chiefs of every wan¬
dering tribe would be more ready to plunder than
to assist. In short, so numerous are the obstacles,
that I deem it a delusion to speak of the invasion
of India by any foreign power, and more so now
than ever, when the system of government in that
country is so well organised as to render it com¬
pletely independent of the native princes, and all
their attacks, and to have a considerable army of
natives devoted to its cause. *
Some seem to entertain apprehensions from
the plans of Persia. A periodical writer, before
alluding to the predominance of French influence
a few years ago at the court of this country ; our
embassies to counteract it; our necessary support
of the Turks; the better organisation and discipline
of the native forces under English officers, and
formerly other foreigners ; the establishment of an
* Quarterly Review, vol. ix. p.57.
VOL. II.
F
66
OPINIONS OF OTHERS.
arsenal by Mr. Armstrong (who however left
Persia in disgust above two years ago) where brass
cannon are cast, shot made, gun-carriages built,
and all the apparatus of field and battering artillery
completed from their own resources •, the impolicy
of the English government in not sending an am¬
bassador appointed by the crown, and the rejection
of one who set out from Bombay by appointment
of the East India Company, makes these remarks :
“ From one of our correspondents we learn that
the present Burmese monarch has been recently
in Persia ; at the court of which country he was
well received, and lived on terms of the most
friendly intimacy with the Persian king and his
ministers. It is confidently said, and generally
believed in India, that the aggressions which led
to the present war, were but the first step of a
concerted plan between the Persians, the Russians,
the Nepaulese, and the Burmese, first suggested
and matured at the Persian court, for the purpose
of drawing off all our strength towards the south¬
eastern frontier, draining the north-western part of
India of our best troops, and making an entry
into that part of the British dominions the more
easy.” *
A lady, who seems to have a masculine under¬
standing, and whom I have often quoted with
pleasure, thinks that the slightest hint of projects
* Oriental Herald for November 182t.
OPINIONS OF OTHERS.
07
entertained by any foreign power in the direction
of our Eastern possessions, is sufficient to excite
the jealous feeling of this country. We have
various accounts, derived from authentic sources,
which decisively prove the joint designs of Buo¬
naparte and his Russian allies against our interests
in India: yet the views of those governments,
either whilst acting together or independently,
have hitherto been thwarted by various circum¬
stances. Among the most important of these
should be reckoned our defeat of Tippoo Saib,
and the check given by his fall to the intrigues
which France had long carried on in that quarter
of the world : then the discomfiture of that army
which was sent by the Directory to Egypt, and
which was stated by Buonaparte to be on the high
road to India. To this succeeded the death of
the Emperor Paul, who, after he became the
ally of France, seems to have entered seriously
into the scheme of attacking us in the East; and,
finally, the mission of Sir Harford Jones from this
country to the court of Persia, by which the
plans of Buonaparte, in despatching General Gar-
danne thither (as he did in 1807), were completely
frustrated.
Now, however, although it is not probable that
we shall be for some time called upon to contend
with any but our sworn friends, for the wealth of
India, the dangers against which we have guarded
F 2
(is OPINIONS OF OTHERS.
so long, are not diminished by the change in
the quarter from whence they may be ex¬
pected.
Mr. Leckie, who seems to have given this sub¬
ject more consideration than any other political
writer, during some of the most momentous years
in the late war (1807, 8, 9, & 10), does not appear
to have entertained any serious apprehension on
account of the designs of France against our pos¬
sessions in India; (although, when he wrote, her
extensive schemes of policy were woven with the
subtlest craft, and her imperial legions led by the
spirit of Buonaparte;) if their track were laid
through any routes that might be chosen by the
way of Turkey and Asia Minor, by that of Syria,
or by the eastern shores of the Caspian: the
passage of any foes by sea, he, very properly at
that time, deemed impracticable. He also con¬
sidered the march of a Russian army to India,
by the route of Bokhara (Boucharia), as impos¬
sible, in the actual state of the countries east of
the Caspian; yet, he does not deny that, if the
Russian government were allowed time to estab¬
lish military posts along the Oxus, and to secure
the friendship of the Tartar chiefs, we might have
cause to fear the success of projects thus cautiously
concerted. But neither does this writer, nor any
other, seem, at that time, to have anticipated the
probability of an European army passing through
OPINIONS OK OT1IEUS.
/)!)
the Albanian gates and the Via Caspia.* At
present, there is ample field for speculation, upon
the attitude that a Russian army (said to be at this
moment 130,0001 strong) has shown in its can¬
tonments on the Cyrus (Koor) and Araxes; and
the whole of western Europe is more than ever
alive to the unceasing yet steady spirit of Russian
aggrandisement. Georgia, doubtless, is tbe proper
point d’appui for any Russian movement against
* The Pylcc Albania *, and the Via Caspia , are two names
for the same pass, that of Derbent. Vide p. 463. Vol. I.
f This estimate of the army of Georgia, made by the intel¬
ligent translator of “ Letters from the Caucasus,” is beyond
all doubt extravagant, vide p. 54. of this volume. Russia never
had, nor has at this moment, the half of that number of
troops cantoned on the Cyrus and the Araxes. By the calcu¬
lation I have given, in the page just referred to, the Cau-
caso-Georgian army of Russia only amounts to 80,000; and
I think it quite certain, that 50,000 is the utmost total of
Russian soldiers now in Georgia. But it must ever be
borne in mind, that not more than half of this army is dis¬
posable for any plans of aggrandisement; the other half being
absolutely necessary for the protection of so extensive and so
unquiet a frontier, as that of both sides of the Caucasus, against
the attacks of the mountaineers. It is not the present condition
of Russia which ought to excite either great jealousy or
alarm. We must look toiler plans as a whole, and not in detail.
We must think of the annual augmentation of her already
formidable army, in a time of peace, of the improvement she
is making in military tactics, of her great political connections
and strength, of the facility with which she could cause
200,000 or 300,000 soldiers to pass the defiles of the Caucasus,
and of the general system of organisation pursued by General
Yermolof.
70
OPINIONS OF OTHERS.
Persia and India; the tsar, however, is already
curbed in his covert projects, both in the West
and East, by the mighty power of public opinion :
besides, he would not, as did the ancient Alex¬
ander, and as Napoleon, in his march to Mos¬
cow, (who alone may be compared with the
Macedonian conqueror,) leave only Satraps behind
him.
These are among the best guarantees for the
safety of the Shach, and the integrity, at least
from external assaults, of our Eastern possessions.
Nevertheless, nothing is left untried by the
Russian cabinet to secure all the approaches to
central Asia; whilst they study to cultivate the
best understanding with the Persian court, where
their influence seems to have lately increased, in
the same proportion that our own has been on the
wane.*
Those who entertain the smallest fear of Russia,
of any other power of Europe, or even of Asia,
being able to invade India, should read the “ Sum¬
mary of the Administration of the Indian Govern¬
ment,” lately published by the Marquis of Hast¬
ings, during the period that he filled the office
of Governor-General.t If Russia were even in
* Letters from the Caucasus and Georgia, J 825 ; and Note
by the Translator, p. 63.
f This was written before the Burmese war began; and,
therefore, I have not altered the text: supposing that power
will not be able to maintain a contest of long duration.
CONQUEST OF TUItKEY.- XXUONAI'AUTE’s OI’INION. 71
possession of Pei'sia, in my opinion, she could only
think of such a plan, in order to find a sepulchre
for her troops. If she employed Russians alone,
three-fourths of them would be in their graves
befoi'e reaching India, and the remainder diseased
and unfit to fight. The warm climate would sweep
them off by thousands and tens of thousands, and
their bones would bleach in the deserts of India,
as did those of the French in Russia in 181 f2.
Should she wish to employ Persians along with
Russians, their number would be totally inad¬
equate for the purpose of attack, and still less
of conquest.
Let us now say a few words respecting the po¬
litics of Russia, with regard to the empire of the
Turks. Buonaparte says, all Alexander’s “ thoughts
are directed to the conquest of Turkey. We have
had many discussions about it; at first I was pleased
with his proposals, because I thought it would en¬
lighten the world to drive those brutes, the Turks,
out of Europe. But, when I leflected upon the
consequences, and saw what a ti'emendous weight
of power it would give to Russia, in consequence
of the number of Greeks in the Turkish dominions,
who would naturally join the Russians, I refused to
consent to it, especially as Alexander wanted to
get Constantinople, which I would not allow, as it
would have destroyed the equilibrium of power in
Europe. I l'eflected that France would gain
Egypt, Syria, and the islands, which would have
f 4
72 CONQUEST OF TURKEY POPULAR JN RUSSIA.
been nothing in comparison with what Russia
would have obtained. I considered that the bar¬
barians of the north were already too powerful, and
probably in the course of time would overwhelm
all Europe, as I now think they will. Austria
already trembles ; Russia and Persia united, Aus¬
tria fails, and England cannot prevent it. France,
under the present family, is nothing ; and the Aus¬
trians are so laches, that they will be easily over¬
powered. Una nazione a colpo di bastone* They
will offer little resistance to the Russians, who are
brave and potent. Russia is the more formidable,
because sire can never disarm. In Russia, once a
soldier always a soldier. Barbarians who, one may
say, have no country, and to whom every country
is better than the one which gave them birth.”
The ex-emperor then says, “ his memory will be
revered in consequence of his having foreseen and
endeavoured to put a stop to that which will yet
take place. It will be revered when the barbarians
of the north possess Europe.”!
On the subject of an attack upon Turkey, I
have merely to state, that no other measure would
be so popular among the military, the nobles, and
the peasantry of Russia. It is w T ell known that
Constantine, the Great Duke of Russia, and almost
the Vice-Roi of Poland,—so frequently accused of
* Means a nation that may be ruled by blows,
t O’Meara’s Napoleon in Exile, voh i. p. 382-3.
THE GREAT DUKE CONSTANTINE.
73
illiberally, cruelty, and barbarism, — was thus
named, because it was expected thatlie would reign
at Constantinople. God forbid it! Those who have
lately been in Poland, or who know the history
of that prince, will hold him in detestation. One
of his deeds of blacker dye than human is already
recorded, and must condemn him in the eyes of the
virtuous. It was, as the writer most truly says, a
case of the ne plus ultra of debauchery and despica¬
ble barbarism, which, had I not heard it repeated
by those in whom I have confidence, I should
have hesitated to believe upon the anonymous
authority of an English Merchant, who has given
the particulars among other Sketches of Russia,
written during sixteen years’ residence.* But let
us hasten from such a horrid deed, by which, it is
said, a virtuous lady fell a victim. May the emblem
of Paul remember the fate of his extraordinary and
unfortunate father, and reform!
I have formerly alluded to the death of the tsar
Heraclius, and to that of his successor to the throne,
George ; and, it may not be misplaced here to in¬
form the reader of the manner in which the royal
family of Georgia were disposed of when the crown
was yielded to Russia. Eight years ago, when
Mr. James was at Petersburgh, he attended an
annual festival at the Imperial winter palace, and
he remarks, in his journal, that the mention of a
* Vide Monthly Magazine, No. 395, for May 1, 1324. p.
7 *
THE ROYAL FAMILY OF GEORGIA.
certain royal family that swelled the train of the
Empress Dowager, may perhaps have created the
surprise of some of his readers; and that he him¬
self, indeed, felt no small astonishment at their first
appearance. “ Independent of the interest,” says
he, “ attached to their situation, it was impossible
not to notice them from their singularity of air and
mien. The princes were handsome men ; but the
princesses, though not young, displayed features of
unparalleled beauty; they were dressed with small
coifs upon their heads, from which a long white
veil, open in front, descended to their feet, lending,
by its novel fashion, a new grace to the elegance
of their persons.” Unable to withstand, at once,
the attacks of his domestic, as well as foreign,
enemies, and especially the intrigues of Russia, the
tsar George Heraclievitch surrendered his king¬
dom to Paul, the Emperor of Russia, and handsome
appointments at Petersburgh were, by stipulation,
to be provided in return ; and, in the year 1801,
his whole family arrived at Moscow. But it was
reserved for the Emperor Alexander to fulfil the
contract, which was done as soon as the confused
state of tilings, at the death of the late Emperor,
would allow.
Thus the royal family, except one son, became
dependent, and still continue dependent, on Rus¬
sia and, I believe, one or two of the princes hold
high ranks in the Imperial army.
Sir R. K. Porter, in describing the fete of the
ALKXANDE11 MIRZA, PRINCE OK GEORGIA. J5
Nowrooze, at Tabreez, informs us, that one object
of particular interest was the presence of Alexander
Mirza, the fourth son of Heraclius, the late tsar of
Georgia, whose hold independence of spirit still
resists all terms of amity with Russia, not only
having rejected every Imperial honour offered to
him, hut openly declaring himself irreconcilably
hostile to that power’s possession of his native
country. When Georgia was ceded, he withdrew
to Daghistan, and from thence took refuge among
the Lesghees, a nation of banditti, who inhabit
Leghistan, who sell their service to any body, and
take different sides, so that a native sometimes falls
by the sword of his brother. When Alexander left
the Lesghees, with the greatest difficulty, bravery,
and address, he made his way from the fastnesses
of their inaccessible country; and, when his road
lay by any defended post, he literally opened a path
with his sword through Shirvan, till he reached the
Persian frontier, and threw himself on the generous
faith of Abbas Mirza. “ It was impossible,” says
Sir R. K. Porter, “ to look on this intrepid prince,
however wild and obdurate , without interest; with¬
out that sort of pity and admiration with which a
man might view the royal lion hunted from his
hereditary waste, yet still returning to hover near,
and roar in proud loneliness his ceaseless threaten-
ings to the human strangers who had disturbed his
reign.”
Of course, Prince Alexander remains under the
7<> THE HEREDITARY PRINCE OF GEORGIA.
protection of Persia, and is ready to join in any
plan which might seem to give the smallest hope of
Georgia recovering her former rank, and of his be-
coming her sovereign, as he never yielded his right
or title, when she was abandoned by the rest of his
family. Neither Russian craft, nor flattery, nor
promise, nor policy, has as yet been able to decoy
this prince into the snare, and the Georgians pre¬
serve and show his portrait with exultation.
CHAP. XV.
BIOGRAPHICAL NOTICE OF GENERAL YERMOLOF.-IIIS ADMINIS¬
TRATION OF GEORGIA-IIIS CONDUCT TO THE CAUCASIANS.—
TIIE JOURNAL OF HIS EMBASSY TO PERSIA.— ITS PREFACE.
—MR. FREYGANCH’S MISSION TO PERSIA.-RUSSIAN POLICY.
-A BOOL, II ASS AN KHAN. IIIS OPINION OF THE RUSSIANS.—
PRESENTS TO THE EMPEROR.—DEPARTURE OF GENERAL YER¬
MOLOF FROM TIFLIS.—ADVANCE TO SHIRPILOU.—GEORGIAN
VILLAGES.—TALIN. — TIIE SERDAR OF EllIVAN.—EITCHMEAD-
ZIN.—ERIVAN.-NAIIITCII IVAN.—GENERAL YERMOLOF’s RE¬
VERIES.-ENTRANCE INTO TABREEZ. —COURT CEREMONIES.
- EXTRAORDINARY RECEPTION OF THE RUSSIAN EMBASSY.
— REVIEW OF PERSIAN TROOPS.—VISIT TO ABBAS M1RZA.
- COURT DECEPTION.— GENERAL YERMOLOF’s SELF-IMPORT¬
ANCE.- CHARACTER OF MIRZA BEZOORK. — ABBAS MIRZA.
-PERSIAN GOVERNMENT. — UDJANI. - THE KYME-MA-
KAU.m’s SON_COLONEL JOHNSON. — ANECDOTE.— AVAN-
LOOG. — POISONOUS BUGS OF MIANA. — BRIDGES-REMARKS
78
BIOGRAPHICAL NOTICE
ON PERSIA. — NIKPE. — SAMANARCIIIE. — MIRZA ABDOOL
WEHAB. — DISCUSSIONS BETWEEN THE MINISTER AND GE¬
NERAL YERMOLOF.
The high military character, the important situa¬
tion, and the political conduct of General Yer¬
molof, as well as the share which he is likely to
have in future events on the south of the Caucasus,
all conspire to render his biography interesting to
the public. I can only pretend, however, to allude
to a few of the principal events of his life in this
volume.
Alexei Petrovitch Yermolof is descended from
a respectable family, who are supposed to be
of Tartar origin, and who trace their genealogy to
the line of the famous Tchingis Khan. He re¬
ceived a moderately good education, or, at least,
what is called so in Russia, and as is the case with
all the aspirants after rank and fame in the auto¬
cratic empire, he entered the army at an early age,
and rose, by length of service and merit, to the
eminent rank which he now holds. In the battle
of Eylau, though he had but the title of colonel,
he received his share of glory. * It was in the
campaign of 1812 , however, that he chiefly dis¬
tinguished himself. In the sanguinary and memo¬
rable battle of Borodino he fought like a hero,
and especially, when along with General Kutusof,
be supported the division of Paskevits, at the time
Jisn i Podvighi Grapha Platova, part i. p, 74.
OF GENERAL YERMOLOF.
79
it was nearly discomfited by that of the French
under Morand, and the result proved very advan¬
tageous. In this battle, he received an honourable
wound, and fell, but not for ever, covered with
glory *; or at least by what is called glory by mi¬
litary men, as well as by the world in general,
but respecting which some entertain a different
opinion, t
With Bennigsen, Barclay de Tolli, Osterman,
Konovnitsin, and Toll, Yermolof formed the coun¬
cil of war which was assembled by order of Prince
Kutusofj in order to determine the important
question, whether Moscow should be defended or
deserted after the retreat of the Russian army
from Borodino to its vicinity; the particulars
of which, the reader will find when we arrive at
that capital.
The distinguished Russian poet Jukovskii, who
accompanied the army from Moscow, in his well
known and celebrated poem, “ The Minstrel in
* Histoire Militaire de la Campagne de Russie, en 1812,
par le Colonel Boutourlin, aide-de-camp de S. M. l’Empereur
de Russie, p. 331—2, and p.349. Paris, 1824.
f “ I have done violence to my feelings/’ says Bowring,
“ by translating many of the military and warlike productions
of the Russian poets, but they will not be without their use.
They will serve to show how the feelings of hatred and male¬
volence are excited, how that love of outrage which is called
‘ martial spirit ,* creeps into the bosom of a people, and cor¬
rodes all the mild and all the generous virtues.” Vide Intro¬
duction to the second part of “ Specimens of the Russian Poets f
p. xi.
Jr
so
BIOGRAPHICAL NOTICE
the Russian Camp,” which was written just before
the battle of Tarutino, thus addresses General
Yermolof:
“ Hail! hail! ye martial leaders all!
Yermolof, valiant Roman!
Friend of the brave, and valour’s wall,
And terror of the foeman.” *
I have recorded the following anecdote of our
hero, which greatly redounds to his honour. “ A
General, who commanded a corps of artillery sta¬
tioned at the Imperial head-quarters, had incurred,
on some trifling occasion, the serious displeasure
of the Emperor Alexander, shortly before the
battle of Leipzig. His Majesty very unceremo¬
niously sent one of his aides-de-camp with an order,
that this officer should give up his command, re¬
pair, within twenty-four hours, to a village at the
distance of twenty or thirty miles, and take charge
of a regiment stationed there. Surprise, indig¬
nation, and fury were successively evinced by the
General, but still he obeyed the mandate. He
left head-quarters without even a moment’s loss of
time,—arrived at his new destination, — examined
it, — reviewed the regiment, — and immediately
drove back to his former station. At a review of
some troops, on the following morning, the Em¬
peror’s eye soon perceived him at the head of his
* Vide the original, or Bowring’s translation in u Specimens
of the Russian Poets f part ii, p. 69.
OF GENERA*, YERMOLOF. SJ
corps. Astonishment and rage were depicted in
the monarch’s physiognomy, and he despatched
an aid-de-camp to enquire, what the General was
doing there, — and why he had left his new sta¬
tion, and dared to disobey his sovereign’s order.
The General, who is a man of talents, of general
information, and of an unconquerable and some¬
what ferocious spirit, with energy replied to the
aid-de-camp, ‘ Go back, and tell his Imperial
Majesty, that the present time is highly important,
and that I feel anxious for the fate of Russia : tell
him, that henceforth, I serve, not Alexander, but
my country; and that I am here, where I ought
to be, at the head of my troops, ready to sacrifice
my life in her cause.’ Such an uncontemplated
and heroic answer, instead of rousing the furious
passions of the mind, as might have been expected,
were despotism really absolute, had a very opposite
effect. The Emperor seemed palsied, replied not
a word, and was glad to hush the affair to sleep,
lest the General’s example should be too generally
known, and become a precedent for the future, to
the officers of the autocratic army. Before the
battle of Mont Martre, the General, who continued
in his former command, had a station assigned
him, in the middle of danger, on purpose, as it
was supposed by some, that his head might be
carried away by a cannon-ball, and thus rid the
Emperor of a refractory and liberal-minded officer.
This gentleman, who fears no danger, rejoiced at
VOL. II.
G
82 YERMOLOF’S ADMINISTRATION OF GEORGIA,
the occasion, fought bravely, and conquered. It
redounds to the credit of Alexander, that he called
for the General on the field of battle, and bestowed
upon him the cordon of St. George. Since this
period he has been employed on an important
mission ; and at this moment, he holds one of the
highest and most responsible offices of the state.”
In 1817, for reasons which are soon to be de¬
tailed, General Yennolof was appointed governor-
general of Georgia, and ambassador to the court
of Persia.
Mr. Smirnoi, author of the “ Life and Combats
of Plat of,” speaks'of Yermolof’s administration with
his usual complacency and flattery toward his
countrymen. “ The inhabitants,” says he, “ of
Georgia and other neighbouring governments over
which he is placed, prosperous under his wise and
vigilant rule, are grateful to the monarch who
gave them so worthy a chief.” *
I have repeatedly had occasion to allude to the
general character of General Yennolof in the
course of this work, and though I must disapprove
of some of his measures, there seems to be no
doubt, that he is a person of great natural and
acquired talents, a brave and energetic soldier,
and a most active, enterprising, and able governor-
general. This is high praise, but his too zealous
anticipation of the ambitious schemes of the crown
* “ Jisn i Poclvighi” of Count Platof, part i. p. 74. Note.
AND CONDUCT TO THE CAUCASIANS.
83
of Russia, his rigorous policy toward the moun¬
taineers, and his cruelty on some occasions already
mentioned*, greatly detract from it. May he
take warning for the future, and be assured, that
good government is always tempered with mercy,
and that the epithet of the humane ought to be
dearer to the bosom of the good than that of the
brave !
My love of impartiality demands that I should
state, that both Colonel Johnson and Sir R. K.
Porter have spoken of General Yermolof in very
high terms; and that I have heard some other
travellers, who have experienced his hospitality,
speak of him with great admiration. Porter al¬
ludes to his services offered with the open and
kindly heart, “ the disposition that receives a coun¬
tryman like a friend, and a stranger like a coun¬
tryman.” And he adds, “ being liberal in his
views, no one can be better adapted to the high
station he holds in this country. His graciousness
secures to him gratitude and confidence from per¬
sons of all nations, to whom he is kind and ser¬
viceable. He is, in every respect, what the re¬
presentative of a great empire ought to be ; and,
by perfectly understanding the people he is de¬
legated to govern, then- natural dispositions, and
the contrary habits they have acquired under con-
* Vide p. 49. of this volume.
84- YERMOLOF’s CONDUCT TO THE CAUCASIANS.
tradictory oppressions, he manages both with a
greatness of aim, a gentleness hi the means *, and,
at the same time, so unswerving a steadiness, that
the proud and gloomy Georgians are daily be¬
coming more sensible to the advantage of their
own laws being exercised by such a foreign hand.
It is natural that the mind should linger after old
associations; should, in remembering times of past
distinction under brave and generous princes, be
reluctant to part with any existing memorial of
such national consequence, be it no more than a
name! But the Georgians, for several generations
preceding their union with Russia, had, in retain¬
ing this name — that of an independent kingdom,
— been actually suffering the utmost miseries of
subjugation, from the feebleness of their native
rulers, and the terrible evils which poured into
their undefended country from the Mahometan
powers, and the barbarous hordes of the mountains.
In becoming part of Russia, the doors were shut
against these oppressors, and the rescued people
soon found the substantial superiority of living in
prosperity and peace, under the name, and with
the rights, of a province attached to so great an
empire, to all the vain glories of being called a
kingdom; — to the shade, rather than the sub¬
stance of majesty, seated in the throne of their
past monarchs, while real tyrants, in the shapes of
* Compare p. 49, and 50. of this volume.
YRRMOI.Of’s EMBASSY TO PERSIA.
85
Lesghees and other invaders, ravaged the country,
and usurped the authorities of the state.” *
Though I differ in some respects from Sir R. K.
Porter, yet his observations on this topic are ge¬
nerally correct. If I am less pleased with a few
points of General Yermolof’s administration, I
expose them, not from enmity, but because I re¬
gard them as the failings of a great man, which
might be amended.
It is now a considerable time since 1 announced
the publication of a manuscript, “ The Journal of
General Yermblof's Embassy to Persia, in the Year
1817.” t Two reasons have led me to keep back
this precious document from the public, beyond
the intended period; viz. 1st, the wish that the
individual who was instrumental in procuring the
copy of that journal, which I now possess, should
previously be beyond the frontiers of Russian,
and even of Continental despotism ; and, 2d, the
delicacy I felt, as to the propriety of publishing
the MS. without the consent of its author.
I hope that I have only to assign my reasons for
its present publicity, in order to show that I am
fully warranted in my conduct. In the first place
then, General Yermolof’s journal could scarcely
be called private, since he allowed some copies to
be taken by his friends, from which numerous
* Travels in Georgia, Persia, &c. vol. i. p. 154.
I' Vide Courier and Morning Chronicle, for Jan. 17th, 1S24
G 3
8 G
YERMOLOF’s EMBASSY TO PERSIA.
others have been made by the officers of the army,
and their agents ; so that the MS. is not at all rare
in the Russian dominions, and is, to a certain ex¬
tent, already made public: secondly, many parts
of that MS. have already been published by Kot¬
zebue, who was one of the individuals in the train
of the ambassador, in his “ Voyage en Perse
thirdly, I knew too well, that had I asked permis¬
sion to publish the journal, from its author, it
would not have been granted, however much
pleased, perhaps, he may be that it is done without
his consent; but he must show the highest dis¬
pleasure and indignation at my procedure, in order
to please the Russian government: fourthly, its
details should be known to Europe, and especially
to my countrymen, as they illustrate the politics
of Russia, and give some fore-knowledge of the
ambitious plans of that country in the north of
Asia; at the same time that they show in what
estimation the British are held by some of their
present allies.
I shall now proceed with a translation and
abridgment of the journal in question. The more
important points shall be generally given in the
author’s own words, while those of little conse¬
quence shall be comprised in as few lines as pos¬
sible. In order to render this part of my work
more interesting, however, I shall occasionally
introduce remarks from Kotzebue, Porter, and
Letters from the Caucasus and Georgia, as well as
PREFACE OF HIS JOURNAL.
87
from my own portfolio ; trusting, that thus a num¬
ber of facts may be assembled together which may
throw some light on the measures of aggrandisement
which Russia has in view, and may lead to the
adoption of means, by other states, to counteract
them. #
I shall translate General Yermolof’s preface
nearly verbatim.
“ The peace concluded with Persia, at the end
of the year 1813, put a conclusion to a continued
war, which, although it was not dangerous to Rus¬
sia, yet might have had disagreeable consequences
during the invasion of our country by the enemy f,
and their occupation of Moscow; especially if
accompanied, at a future period, by any internal
commotion in Georgia. The happy revolution of
our affairs, the expulsion of the enemy from the
frontiers of Russia, their dreadful defeat, and the
triumphal march of our forces to the centre of
Germany, led the Persians to think, that for their
tranquillity it was necessary to seek peace with
Russia, rather than to indulge the vain hope of
gaining it by force of arms. Persia, after having
renounced her rights to some provinces which were
joined to ours by conquest as well as by written docu¬
ments, sent an ambassador extraordinary to Peters-
* Those who are more anxious about a knowledge of Persia,
may consult the works of Morier, Malcolm, Ousely, &c., not
forgetting Chardin.
f The French, in 18P2.
88
PREFACE OF YERMOLOF’S JOURNAL.
burgh, so as, by petitions and persuasions, to induce
the generous Gosuddr, the Emperor, to consent to
the restitution of these provinces. This ambassador
arrived during the absence of His Imperial Ma¬
jesty, who, at the head of his armies beyond the
frontiers of Russia, was occupied with the pacifi¬
cation of Europe, who called confusion to order,
and who liberated the oppressed from the yoke of
Napoleon. After the arrival of the emperor at
Petersburgh, the Persian ambassador presented the
petition of the Shach, and received in answer, that
through reciprocity of friendship, I should be sent
as ambassador to his Persian Majesty, confidentially
charged to communicate the opinions of the Em¬
peror upon the subject in question. It was also
notified to him, how agreeable it would be to His
Imperial Majesty, in all things, to meet the wishes
of the Shach. The ambassador departed from Pe¬
tersburgh, and I soon afterwards followed him. I
made a short delay in Georgia, and examined some
parts of the frontiers, that it might be known
whether it was possible to restore them, in case it
should happen that the Persians demanded their
exchange.”
It may be here remarked, that in the year 1812,
Russia was peculiarly anxious to be at peace both
with Turkey and Persia; and this object, no doubt,
was accomplished by the assistance of the British
government, through our ambassadors at the courts
of those states. Mr. Freyganch was sent by Russia
FREYGARCIl’s MISSION TO PERSIA. 8<>
on a special mission to the court of Abbas Mirza,
to conclude a peace ; and at that time, this gentle¬
man informs us, that Sir Gore Ousely, who had
also arrived from India, at the same destination,
was very desirous to further the object of his mis¬
sion ; “ But,” says he, “ Abbaz Mirza being well
aware of the French having invaded Russia, felt
encouraged by that circumstance to reject every
proposition for peace with my government. He
was, indeed, decided upon attempting another ex¬
pedition into Georgia, with hopes of thereby ob¬
taining a more advantageous peace ; and, above all,
of acquiring that military glory, of which he is so
ambitious. I saw clearly enough that he placed
great confidence in his own genius and bravery, as
well as in the courage of his sarbazes.” — “ When
Abbas Mirza was completely defeated by the Rus¬
sian general Kotlereffsky, he must have regretted
that he had not concluded a treaty upon the terms
proposed through myself, and which he was after¬
wards obliged to accept.” *
From what I have heard, from a political source,
I should suppose that the persuasions of Sir Gore
Ousely, in consequence of his instructions, were
more powerful than the force of arms, and were
the chief means of leading to the conclusion of
peace between Persia and Russia in 1813; and
* A Journey into Persia, in Letters from the Caucasus,
&c. p. 365.
90 RUSSIAN POLICY. — ABOOL HASSAN KHAN,
that the provinces, which the former power yielded
up to the latter, were only to be held possession
of, for a limited time, as a guarantee for the rati¬
fication of a future treaty. “ This was dangerous
policy with the Russians,” said a friend, “ and
both the Persians and the English were gulled .”
These provinces, once under the claws of the
Imperial Eagle, were never intended to be re¬
stored to Persia; and the general and favourable
change in the aspect of the affairs of Russia,
soon enabled her to assume a higher, and even a
dictatorial tone towards Persia ; as we shall see in
the course of General YermoloPs journal.
Abool Hassan Khan, the Persian ambassador,
a character well known throughout Europe, arrived
at Moscow, where he remained a considerable
time, in consequence of the Emperor’s absence;
and where he received the highest attentions from
the authorities, and the respectable foreigners of
every nation. It was said, however, that he held
the Russians, in toto , in contempt, and had an
unconquerable dislike to them. Indeed, I have been
told that, on various occasions, he showed this
more openly than seemed consistent with his diplo¬
matic situation; while his partiality for the Eng¬
lish was remarkable. He reached Petersburglq
where I was settled at the time, and I had an oppor¬
tunity of seeing the grand procession which took
place at the presentation of the presents of the
Sliach of Persia to the Emperor of Russia. The
HIS OPINION OF THE RUSSIANS.
91
chief objects of curiosity were huge elephants
with enormous black and red leathern boots,
which were made on purpose, in order to preserve
their feet from injury by the cold or the snow.
Notwithstanding that these clumsy boots, upon no
less clumsy feet, presented a large surface; yet,
the snow being soft, the animals were impeded in
their usual unwieldy motions, and moved most
awkwardly along. The presents, consisting of
them, horses, shawls, See., were all received in the
imperial palace with great ceremony and pomp;
so as, no doubt, that the ambassador and his
retinue might return to the East with imposing
accounts of the grandeur of the Russian court,
and the magnificence of its sovereign. But Abool
Hassan Khan was not to be so easily duped. If
his opinion may be judged of by his conversations,
he left Russia with the same sentiments which he
entertained at Moscow more deeply rivetted in his
heart. He was well pleased, however, as the
object of his mission had failed, that the emperor
proposed to send an ambassador to Persia; be¬
cause, if this had not been done, it was surmised,
he might have lost his head.
All the necessary arrangements being made for
his departure, General Yermolof, with his retinue,
left Tiflis # on the 17 th April, (O. S.) 1817, after
* Since the account of Tiflis was printed off, I have seen a
statement, by which it appears that the commerce of that town
amounts to above 60,000 roubles, of which 2S,000 were for
exportation , and 33,000 for importation.
92 yermolof’s DEPARTURE. —SI1IRPILOU.
having attended divine service in the cathedral,
and received the benediction of the metropolitan.
Many of the princes and nobles of Georgia con¬
veyed him out of that town, and some even went
as far as Kodi, where he had his quarters for the
night.*
I shall not follow the slow advance of the am¬
bassador to Emir-Aivaz, Ach-Kerpi, Achsebe-
jouk, on the 18th, 19 th, and 20th. Kotzebue
relates, that the scenery near the mountain Ach-
sebejouk was remarkably fine; and that the am¬
bassador, charmed, “ de ce spectacle,” said to the
persons who surrounded him; “ We admire the
extent of this landscape; but it is only a point of
the vast empire submitted to the laws of a single
man.” Our author also discovers that, “cette
hide est vrahnent sublime and that in the pro¬
gress of ages, it will be regarded as a miracle that
so many estates have been assembled together, t
The advance of the embassy, from the 20th
to the 29th, by the mountain of Bezabdal, Kara-
Klissa, Gumri (which lies on the frontiers of
Turkey, Persia, and Russia), and Shirpilou-Cara-
vanserai, contains nothing of interest. At the
last named place, the General remarks, that it was
fortunate that they carried all kinds of provision
with them, both for man and horse ; because the
* The German .word Nachtlager , or Natcht-Quarter, the
French Gite , or Couchee , and the Russian Notching , are very
convenient; instead of our circumlocution.
+ Voyage en Perse, p. 63.
GEORGIAN VILLAGES. -TALIN.
93
Persians made no sort of preparation for the em¬
bassy ; as neither they, nor the Russians, reckoned
this region to belong to them. “ Here,” he adds,
“ as in many other places, no frontier is indicated.”
“ At this place there came to me an officer from
Kars, who was sent by Ali Pascha with a letter
and congratulations at my arrival. Having written
a polite answer, and made presents to the mes¬
senger, I sent him back on the following day.”
In his route, the ambassador speaks of different
villages in Georgia, of which a better idea may
be got, by the view of Telav * at the head of this
chapter, than by the most minute description.
The ambassador reached Talin on the 30th.
This large colony, the first within the Persian
limits, was formerly desolated by the forces of
Russia. Six versts before arriving here, the
general was met by the near relations of the
Serdar of Erivan, along with some forces. At
their head was Asker-Khan, who had been am¬
bassador at the court of France, during the time of
Napoleon. He complimented the general in the
name of his sovereign, and informed him that he
was the mehmandar of the Russian legation. A
mehmandar, which may be translated provider , is
an officer of a superior rank, who is charged to
receive an ambassador or a noble, and to provide
for all his wants. Kotzebue remarks, that it was
a great mark of deference on the part of the Shach
* Vick p,26. of this volume.
9-i THE SERDAR OF ERIVAN.
ETCHMIADZIN.
of Persia, to give the Russian embassy, as mehman-
dar, a personage who had been a minister plenipo¬
tentiary ; and who had also been a general-in-chief
of the Persian army. He likewise assures us, that
General Yermolof, full of respect for the age and
the high rank of this individual, showed him the
greatest attention during his sejour in Persia, and
never allowed him to fulfil the soins minutieux
which this office imposes.
“At my first step,” says the General, “on Per¬
sian ground, I demanded, that on my entrance
into Erivan, the Serdar should come out to meet me.
This distinguished grandee, a man who is inti¬
mately attached to the Shach, who was esteemed
in his younger years for his bravery, and who had
been looked up to for a long time only for his
riches, certainly did not expect such a proposition ;
but I insisted with firmness on its execution.”
On the 1st of May, and at the distance of
five versts from Etchmiadzin, the patriarchal seat
of Armenia, which contains a large and fine mo¬
nastery, the ambassador was met by five bishops
on horseback; who, having dismounted, compli¬
mented him on his arrival. The patriarch himself
rode out more than a verst for the same purpose.
“ I alighted from my horse, and he did the same:—
so little did I keep him under restraint. At the
gates of the monastery I found an assembly of the
clergy, in their most sumptuous habits, with
crosses and images; and amidst the ringing of
bells and the chaunts of singers, 1 was conducted
Kill VAN.
95
to the house appointed for my residence in the
monastery. I wished to have gone directly to
church, but intentionally did not do so; that I
might not be accompanied by crowds of Persians,
who had also met me, and who generally show no
regard to the sanctity of our temples. I also
discovered that many spies were stationed here, so
as to observe the actions of the patriarch, and our
interview with him. This was the first proof of
want of faith towards us, which the Persians did
not understand how to conceal.”
On the 2d of May, the Persian officers having
appointed not to make any halt, the general rode
straight to Erivan, and attended divine service,
because it was the festival of the Ascension. “ The
patriarch pronounced an excellent oration, in which
he petitioned the blessing of God for success on
the mission with which I was charged by the
Emperor; and it was remarked by all of us, that
when he made mention of the name of His Impe¬
rial Majesty, immediately afterwards he loudly
repeated the name of the jShach, that the Persians
might hear it. With sorrow I observed that the
Persian officers asked for seats, that they might
sit down during divine service, not regarding that
I did not seat myself upon the arm-chair, nor
even stood upon the carpet which was destined
for me. I ought to remark, that those very officers
dare not sit down in the presence of the Serdar
of Erivan, unless he gives permission, which hap-
96
EKIVAN.
pens but very rarely, and is reckoned the highest
favour. Foreigners,—with the exception of the
English officers of' the East India Commercial
Company, who sell their not very valuable com¬
modities for great sums of money, and French
military vagabontls,—might easily remark, in the
Persians, the most deep-rooted villany; and that
they arc the most complete slaves under the sun.”
On the3d, the General was met by Hassan Khan,
at the head of about 500 Persians and Coordish
cavalry. “ Shooting commenced, and the Coordes
showed themselves much more rapid and skilful
than the Persians. I wished to have entered Eri-
van with some ceremony, but a heavy tall of rain
opposed this measure. Not far from the castle a bat¬
talion of regular infantry — parade Persian infantry,
— or peasants with arms, was stationed. The Ser-
dar himself came out a verst to meet me; and,
calling to his assistance that dissimulation which is
coeval with a Persian’s birth, he endeavoured as
much as possible to conceal his disagreeable feel¬
ings.” Kotzebue remarks, “ that the inhabitants
could not conceal their surprise at seeing so proud
a man set out from the fortress and go to meet us.
It was a homage which he only renders to the so¬
vereign himself; but the ambassador had insisted
upon this part of the ceremonial, et peur surcroit
de contrariety the Serdar, perhaps for the first
time in his life, ,/m/ trempepar la pluie jusqiCaux os.”
The brother of the Serdar conducted the em-
ElflVAN. 97
bassy to lodgings, specially appointed, and its
arrival was celebrated by a salute of artillery.
The Serdar, agreeably to the ambassador’s de¬
mand, made him the first visit, and, according to
Kotzebue, he placed himself upon a chair, avec
assez de gaucherie , smoked much, spoke little, and
scarcely moved the head, but he drank strong
liquors copiously, and braved the commandments
of the prophet. “ That which surprised us was,
that the governor said he could not live without the
aid of spirituous liquors.” He returned in about
an hour, and invited all the persons of the em¬
bassy to dinner. They dined in Persian style, but
had a second repast on their return home.
“ They amused us with singing, to which the
most unsupportable howling alone could be com¬
pared, and with dreadful convulsions and contor¬
tions, which the Persians called a dance. They
regard this with enthusiasm ; and, young boys who
show skilfulness in this mode of dancing, receive
their approbation.”
On the 6th, “ I was received, with my suite, in
the garden of the Serdar.” After dinner, “ the
singers and dancers distressed us. We had the
band of music of the embassy with us, which highly
pleased all present. We treated the Serdar with
confections, ice-creams, and strong liquors. Frozen
punch, in the form of ice-cream, was adapted for
all palates. Out of good humour, we named it a
medicated substance for strengthening the stomach.
VOL. il. II
98
ERIVAN.
Here we took farewell of the Serdar, showing the
greatest demonstrations of friendship on both sides.
This grandee is intimately connected with the
Shacli. He is reckoned one of the most learned
persons in Persia (and, I think, also one of the most
sacred) ; and, according to the understanding of
the Persians, this character is not in opposition to
the fact, that he can neither read nor write.
“ Before my arrival at Erivan, a report had
spread abroad that I had troops in my suite, and
the dread of them was general. To foolish Per¬
sian credulity did it appear possible that I carried
boxes with me, in which soldiers were concealed,
and who were to take the castle? My unseen le¬
gions consisted of twenty-four infantry, and as
many Kozaks; and my regular cavalry was com¬
posed of one under-officer of dragoons, whose only
occupation w r as to look after my horse. These are
the forces which arrived to alarm the Serdar, the
firm prop of the Persian monarchy. Neither Per¬
sian pride, nor skill in dissimulation, could conceal
the dread which the presence of the Russians
excited.
“ On the 7th, Captain Nadzarof, whom I had
sent as courier to Constantinople, returned and
met me at the village Tcherni, but neither in good
time, nor with agreeable intelligence.
“ On the 10th the embassy buried a free servant,
who died at Kohik, from being unaccustomed to
the climate.” The corpse, according to Kotzebue,
MAT IITCIII VAN-YERMOEOF’s REVERIES. 99
was interred in a deep ditch, and covered over with
large stones; but, at their return, this modest tomb
had disappeared, and the body had been disinterred.
The Mussulmans do not allow the body of a Chris¬
tian to decompose in peace.
At Nahitchivan* the embassy met with Kam-
borei, the khan of this province, a very merry, and
extremely polite old man, who bad the misfortune
to lose his sight during the reign of the Persian
Wicked One, Ali Mahomet. He was affected by
the particular regard manifested by General Yer-
molof for his unhappy situation, and uttered bitter
complaints against the cruelty of the tyrant. “ The
situation of slavery does not remove from man the
feeling for affliction. If the severe judgment be
sometimes formed, that beneficent Nature assuages
the poignancy of distress, by the hope of vengeance,
this unhappy individual, already advanced in years,
and being removed from those who were faithfully
attached to him, cannot have even this consolation.
His son is retained by the government as an hos¬
tage for his fidelity. What new feelings would a
similar rencontre excite with men living under a
gentle administration, and under cheerful liberty ?
Here, with dread, we see the power of sovereigns
exceeding its limits in relation to the subjects ; and
we behold, with grief the subjects not understand-
* The Russians always'^ell this word so. English writers
often write it Nackshivdn, or Nukshivan.
100
yerm6lof’s reveries.
ing themselves, nor feeling the dignity of man. I
congratulate a hundred times the fate of my be¬
loved country, and nothing can efface from my
heart the contempt which I felt for the Persian
government.” This is very extraordinary lan¬
guage from the pen of a native of the despotic
northern empire, who seems completely blinded to
the true state of his own “ beloved country,” as
also is the case with most of his countrymen. They
have the madness to believe that the Russian mo¬
narchy, as they gently nominate it, has an excellent
government. How blind we are when personal
vanity comes in the way !
We are led to believe, that, besides the regular
Persian soldiers whom the embassy saw on their
advance, peasants who had arrived from the neigh¬
bourhood for the purpose of making bargains, were
seized and armed, so that the strangers might
understand “ what dreadful forces surround the
boundaries of the realms of Persia. The strictest
observance of decorum could not conceal my feel¬
ings of disdain. I laughed, but not merely because
the Persians appeared ridiculous to us.”
The General advanced by Galaki Caravanserai,
Marande, and Sophian, to the village of Segilan,
where preparations were made for the entrance of
the embassy into Tabreez- and, they were informed
by their future mehmandar, that troops, and various
persons of rank, were appointed to meet them.
On the following day the embassy made its solemn
KNT11ANCE INTO TARREEZ.—COURT CEREMONIES. 101
entry into that town, amid numerous troops and
many cannon. All the tradesmen of the town were
said to have been under arms, so as to augment the
number, and render the view more imposing. Ge¬
neral Yermolof was received in the most handsome
style, being met at some distance by Tet Ali Khan,
the military governor of the town, and afterwards
by the Vizier, who is the son of the Kyme-makaum,
Mirza Bezoork, the second person of rank in the
kingdom. The heir-presumptive himself, in a very
common dress, rode behind the lines incognito.
Having reached the house of his destination, an
hour afterwards Mirza Bezoork sent to ask when
he might be conveniently with the general. As
he could not be received that day, he arrived
on the following morning with his suite; and,
after dinner, General Yennolof, with his suite,
returned his visit. On the following day his excel¬
lency was received by the Abbas Mirza. “ Through
the melimandar I was informed, in a very delicate
manner, of the forms and ceremonies used at the
court of Persia; that it was not permitted to enter ’
the room of the heir-presumptive in boots, and that
all were obliged to put on red stockings (Krasniye
Tchulki); that I alone could be in the room with
the counsellors of the embassy, and that the other
officers ought to remain in the court; and of some
other equally foolish previous arrangements. In
the time of Napoleon, when he sought to do all
possible injury to Russia, General Gardanne was
COURT CEREMONIES.
Wil
sent by him to Persia, that lie might obtain the
confidence of the Persians, lie therefore acceded
to every etiquette, and on him, alter the red cap of
liberty , it was not difficult to put on the red stock¬
ings. The English ambassadors, and all persons of
rank now residing in Persia, perhaps not with the
same views as the French, but that they may
strengthen the bond of union for the advantage of
commerce, likewise do not make much difficulty
with respect to the etiquette of the Persian court,
and use the red stockings; and the officers dare
not enter Mirza Bezoork’s shod in any other
manner. But as 1 arrived here neither with the
base feelings of a French spy, nor with the inter¬
ested views of the clerk ( prikdstchik ) of a commer¬
cial nation, I did not consent to the use of the red
stockings, and the other prescribed conditions ;
and, on this account, Abbas Mirza, after a long
conference with his council, resolved to receive us,
not in a room, but in the court, not sitting upon
carpets, upon which neither boot nor shoe had
ever been permitted to rub, but standing as in com¬
mon, upon stones, near the bridge, within the
court, at the very windows of the palace, and
under the portrait of Abbas Mirza’s father.”
As General Ycrmolof has made such a mighty
affair of the red stockings as he calls them, or the
red boots, or slippers, as they are denominated by
others, the reader may be curious to know some¬
thing of this custom at the Persian court. It can-
COURT CEREMONIES.
103
not be given in better language than that of' Mr.
Freyganch, who was, at least in some degree,
General Yermolof’s predecessor. “ I may notice
here,” says he, “ that, in the Persian court, they
seem unacquainted with the rules of precedence
and privilege so scrupulously observed towards
diplomatic persons in Europe; and there is one
custom which they never forego in favour of the
most distinguished rank. It appeared to me very
singular, and even the British ambassadors con¬
form to it most strictly. It is required, that on
all public audiences, the shoes be taken off, and
the Persian slippers substituted for them. Far
from affecting thereby any sort of superiority, or
requiring an attention to the rule from mere os¬
tentation, the court adheres to this formality, as
being of religious origin. It is, moreover, a very
ancient custom, and tends to the preservation of
their beautiful carpets, the principal ornaments of
Persian houses. I therefore made my appearance
before the prince in slippers.” *
Colonel Johnson and party, when presented
to the heir-presumptive, were dressed in their
own full uniform, “ but in red cloth boots, and over
them high-heeled green slippers :” and on a si¬
milar occasion, Sir 11. K. Porter says, “ We then
disengaged our feet from our slippers, ( having red
* A Journey into Persia, in Letters from the Caucasus and
Georgia, p. 313.
II 4
lot COURT CEREMONIES.
kerseymere socks, a kind of boot "without sole under
them,) and drew near the place in which he (the
Prince Abbas Mirza) sat. 5 ’
General Yennolof would probably have acted
wisely in following Mr. Freyganch’s example in
using the boots, (which he, for the sake of throwing
more ridicule upon the custom, is pleased to call
stockings,) and saved the disgrace which thence
arose to his government, of having had its ambas¬
sador received, not in the usual audience chamber,
but in an open court. But the general and his
suite at first took very different views of the matter,
and made more of this exemption from compliance
to a long-continued custom, than many would do
of a victory. On another occasion, for example,
we are informed by Mr, Kotzebue, and apparently
with much self-congratulation, tliat “ telle est la
delicatesse du prince hereditaire, qiCil ne permet pas
qne les oj/iciers Anglais Joulent ses tapis autrement
qu’avec des chaussures legeres de marroquin a la
botte du pays; tandis que nos bottes d talonsJerres
y faisoient itn vacarme affreux. C’etoit une excep¬
tion bienflatteusepour lapersonne de Vambassadeur,
aidant que pour sa suite. N’oublions pas, non
plus, que le seul aspect d’hommes bottes suftit pour
choquer les regards et revolter l’orgueil de la na¬
tion entiere. Un changement de chaussure, aussi
insignifiant par lui-meme, a deja fait rompre des
negociations au Japan et au Chine.” *
* Voyage cn Perse, p. 143.
RECEPTION OF THE RUSSIAN EMBASSY. 105
Tlie ambassador gives a particular account of’
their progress to the said open court, which is un¬
important. Here they saw “ a man in ordinary red
clothes without ornaments, seated behind a cur¬
tain,” whom no one would have taken for the heir-
presumptive. “ But the master of the ceremonies
and his adjutant speedily began to take off their
slippers, and to bow nearly to the ground. I did
not stop, and without taking off my hat, continued
to move forward. In the middle of the court
they overtook us, and again commenced their sa¬
lutations.” The rest of the progress of the cere¬
mony is of little interest. Till they drew near the
heir-presumptive, “ all was risible and foolish, but
at his presence all became tranquil.”
Abbas Mirza was reared amidst luxury and pro¬
digality, which he “ swallowed” with his mother’s
milk, and he has had but woful examples of so¬
vereignty in some of the predecessors of his father.
“ As the heir-presumptive of the throne, he has
very extensive powers, which he little abuses. He
is generally attached to the customs of Europe,
and seeks every means of illumination. To these
qualities, ever since his youngest years, he has
joined a very captivating exterior. He received
us in a very gay manner, and spoke with each of
the suite very affably. Having remained about
an hour, and got out from behind the screen, we
immediately put on our hats, but the master of
the ceremonies and his adjutant began their re-
106 RECEPTION OF THE RUSSIAN EMBASSY.
treat according to the former order, <:. bowing at
the same places, with this only difference, that on
their way back, every one seized his slippers, and
hastened to put them on, or carried them trium¬
phantly in his hands.
“ To many, as well as to myself, the reception
in the court seemed extraordinary, but the Per¬
sians endeavoured to represent it as a particular
proof of such respect as had never before been
showm to any ambassador. They told us that the
heir-apparent never received any body otherwise
than sitting, and on this occasion he stood, but
not even upon the carpet.” Who coidd have sup¬
posed that General Yermolof and all his suite
should have been “ so gulled” by the Persians.
But the truth is, that the victory over the red
stockings seems to have blinded them all to every
other sentiment; and, while they were vain enough
to show how highly they were flattered by the
exemption, others were enjoying the laugh at their
expense, and at the ingenuity of the Persian trick
of receiving his imperial majesty’s ambassador out
(if doors upon such a grand occasion.
On the following day, agreeably to the invitation
of Abbas Mirza, General Yermolof accompanied
his royal highness to the suburbs of Tabreez to
see the troops. “ In the streets w r ere ranged the
Persian and the Coordish cavalry, which afterwards
followed us to the field. Not far from the town,
we found the artillery ready for exercise, but
REVIEW OF THE PERSIAN TROOPS.
107
without horses. Ablnis Mirza begged me to exa¬
mine it, and added, that the Russians excited in
him the envy of artillery. We praised his design,
and the good example that he had chosen for
imitation, because the English artillery is well
known for its superiority.
“ The Persian and the Coordish cavalry were
drawn up in separate lines. From among the
Coords were selected divisions, and they fell upon
each other and began to fire. This people manage
their horses with peculiar ease. Not one of the
Persians rode out to show himself on account
of the superiority of the Coords in all things. The
artillery fired against a mark, and very well.”
On another occasion Abbas Mirza begged Ge¬
neral Yermolof and his suite to come to his garden.
They were received in a summer-house, in which
it had been intended to regale them with tea.
The Prince proposed to the general that all his
suite should go into another room, where a repast
was prepared for them. He said he should go
with them. Abbas Mirza then retained the whole
party with himself but instead of tea, he gave
them a little sherbet , “ and certainly because he
wished to drink it himself.”
“ All our horses were behind the garden wall,
and only that of Abbas Mirza was led to him.
One of my officers made a signal to my servant,
and behind the horse of Abbas Mirza, my horse
showed itself a circumstance which appeared very
108
VISIT TO ABBAS RIIRZA.
strange to the Persians; but nevertheless we rode
from the garden together.
“ No opportunities, no circumstances, present
themselves, in which the Persians do not deem it
necessary to demonstrate their pride; and 1 can
imagine their surprise, when, in return, they are
treated with still a greater degree of pride, and
even contempt. In such a manner did I conduct
myself towards them.”
On the following morning the Vizier, and all
the most distinguished persons, accompanied with
their suites, made their visit to General Yermolof.
The General alludes to the English officers beat¬
ing the Persian troops with their fists — blows >
which he thinks may yet be repaid in case of a
change of government. He also describes his visit
to the Vizier’s, — the only place he went to, though
he received many invitations, — the exhibition of
fine fire-works, prepared by French and Italian
refugees, &c. &c.
“ An officer arrived from Teheran, with intelli¬
gence from the Grand Vizier, that after the marriage
of two of his sons, the Shach would set out for Sul-
tania, his summer palace. By him I also received
an invitation to go there, if I could not arrive
at Teheran in time for the weddings. It was diffi¬
cult to succeed in this, and therefore it was arranged
that the journey should be performed leisurely, and
it was resolved to quit Tabreez.”
The Kyme-makaum, the nearest and the most
COURT DECEPTION.
109
-confidential personage attached to Abbas Mirza,
as well as the Prince himselfj keenly endeavoured
to persuade the ambassador to remain a while at
his country castle, called Udjani, and assigned dif¬
ferent reasons with respect to the General’s com¬
fort for pressing this plan upon him. For two
days, negotiations were continued about this busi¬
ness, when the extreme anxiety manifested for his
delay, led him to suppose that they had some con¬
cealed design. “ I therefore,” says Yermolof,
“ told them determinately, that, without fail, I
should set off, and that I had reasons for so doing.
To oppose me they could not; to stop me they
dared not.
“The day before my departure, Abbas Mirza sent
to ask me to ride out of town with him. I excused
myself, because I was to depart on the following
day ; and said, that to-day I intended to take care
of my eyes, which pained me, and therefore that I
could not have the pleasure of seeing him. I
begged leave, however, to send one of my officers
to present my grateful acknowledgments to the
heir-presumptive for his gracious and kind recep¬
tion, and his attention. I added, that I ought to
have had a farewell audience; but, as I had not
been received by him in a convenient manner
in the court, I did not reckon it necessary.” The
General now began to see the errors of his first im¬
pressions. His unexpected answer to the Prince’s
offer, touched the Kyme-makauin, and was followed
110 GENERAL YERMOLOF’s SELF-IMPORTANCE.
by long-continued explanations. The Prince’s mi¬
nister endeavoured to convince the ambassador
that the reception in the court was the highest tes¬
timony of regard which had hitherto been shown
to any ambassador, and that former ambassadors
had put on the red slippers if they wished to be
received in the audience-room. “ I ordered him to
be told, that I could not be put in comparison with
others , because I had not arrived for my own advan¬
tage, and that he ought to understand that I was
the ambassador of the most powerful nation of the
world; and, besides, was their neighbour, whose
friendly intercourse might be of use to Persia.”
The General, therefore, prayed the Kyme-ma-
kaum, — if the ceremony of the red stockings , and
such-like , must be rigidly adhered to, as the basis
of friendship, — that lie would inform the Shach
that he would not put on those stockings; and that
he might not perform a useless journey, he should
await an answer upon the road, and, if necessary,
should return to Russia. This unlooked-for answer
threw the Kyme-makaum into a panic. The Gene¬
ral received an answer from the Prince, stating,
that he did not desire to see him, and that on the
following morning he would receive his officer. The
ambassador told Mr. Sokolof to repeat the same
things to Abbas Mirza as he had done to the Kyme-
makaum ; buthe himself left Tabreez at sunrise.
Nothing can be more contradictory than the
character of Mirza Bezoork, the Kyme-makaum, as
CHARACTER OF MIRZA BEZOOKK.
Ill
given by different writers. Sir 11. Porter, in speak¬
ing of him, says, “ This really noble Persian is a
man of a spare habit, about fifty years of age, with
a languid but expressive countenance, bespeaking
goodness and penetration, and, when occasion calls
for it, an energy in every feature that testifies the
activity of a minister, in every way worthy the trust
devolved on him by his royal master. True na¬
tional policy is yet an infant science in this empire.
But Mirza Bezoork is one instance of consider¬
able maturity in the knowledge of government, of
the power, happiness, and grandeur, which arise
from its just administration. The most disinter¬
ested liberality, with regard to his own personal
advantage, and an expansion of view in the fulfil¬
ment of his office, proceeding from the cultivation
of his mind, make him a very superior person, and
above most of his compeers, valuable for his coun¬
sels to a Prince, whose own dispositions seem so
well inclined to lead, or to follow any good purpose
for his country.” *
In the translation of Letters from the Caucasus,
is the following note: — “ With respect to Mirza
Bezoork, the veteran minister of the court of Ta¬
briz, it ought to be added, that bis integrity and his
abilities are equally admirable.”!
On the contrary, Kotzebue says, that “ Mirza
* Travels in Georgia, Persia, Sec. vol. i. p.236.
f Vide p. 316.
112
CHARACTER OF MIRZA REZOORK.
Bejourk est un homme tres fin, qiii contrefait la
devotion, et souffle volontiers qu’on lui donne le
titre de Dervish. Son avarice et ses exactions me-
contentent le people, qui le deteste aussi cordiale-
ment qu’il benit le gouvernement du prince.”
And, in another place, he states, that “ ce ministre
n’est qu’un grossier personnage et un vieil hypo¬
crite.” *
General Yermolof goes farther, and asserts, that
he is a man well known for his subtlety, who allows
himself to be called a dervish twenty times in a
quarter of an hour’s conversation, and who pretends
not to have any of the passions of a mortal, that
he is equal-minded to all worldly honours, and a
stranger to all vain desires. “ Yet this anchorite,”
he adds, “ occupies the second place in the go¬
vernment, and is ready to replace the Grand Vi¬
zier of the Shacli; this stranger to passion, —
this just man, who seeks heaven by fasting and
prayer, — through the weakness of human nature,
in reality had, and now has, a seraglio, and has
already buried fifteen of his children. He called his
son to the rank of Vizier without his having merited
it by any service, and is now preparing his own
place for him. But, on all occasions he has followed
the system of holding honours in contempt, and
titles as vanity.
“ The Vizier is a young man, who has received
* Voyage en Perse, pp. 129. 146.
ABBAS MIRZA.—PERSIAN GOVERNMENT. 113
his appointment merely through the interest of his
father, to whose care was entrusted the youth of
Abbas Mirza.”
This minister has preserved great influence over
his royal pupil, and, indeed, if the master is to be
judged of by the prince, he deserves great credit. At
this moment there is not a prince, even in Europe,
who seems more anxious to civilise and enlighten
his nation than Abbas Mirza. He is truly the
patron of arts and sciences, and learning of every
kind j and, should his succession to the throne not
be accompanied by intestine broils and confusion,
he may prove to Persia what Peter the Great was to
Russia, and add glory to the name of man. All
writers and travellers speak of him in the most flat¬
tering terms, as well as General Yermolof and
those of his suite, both with regard to his manly
appearance and noble conduct, his talents and
goodness of heart.
What a contrast between Abbas Mirza, the
heir-presumptive of Persia, and Constantine, the
apparent successor to the throne of Russia! How
different is their conduct, when partly under re¬
straint, and partly as independent sovereigns?
Should they come to the thrones of their countries,
Persia may be blessed beyond anticipation, while
Russia may see Paul II. under the line sounding
and classic name of Constantine ; but assuredly
not in sheep’s clothing.
General Yermolof alludes to the high influence
O
VOL. II. I
114 PERSIAN GOVERNMENT.-UDJANI.
of the English at the Persian court, to his guard of
honour, and to those in attendance who knew Rus¬
sian and were placed around him as spies; and then
adds, that he could never propose to ride out of
Tabreez without his design being known to Abbas
Mirza, who always proposed to accompany him.
Therefore, to avoid observation, though suffering
much from ennui, he remained at home. “ In a
word, every step of the Persians was a testimony
of their mistrust in us, and every action manifested
the design to conceal from our view the weakness,
the poverty, and the villany of the government,
while, by a deceitful exterior, they endeavoured to
ravish our esteem.”
General Yermolof embraced an opportunity, by
an officer returning to Teheran, to inform the
Grand Vizier, byway of precaution, that he would
not submit to be treated after the above manner,
which he esteemed remote from friendly disposi¬
tions, and would thence adopt another line of
conduct.
In his journey the ambassador reached Mac-
mitch, which is surrounded by other villages, and by
fine forests, in consequence of a custom of their in¬
habitants, that at the birth of every male child fifty
or more trees are planted, which subsequently be¬
long to him. This example is worthy of imitation
in other countries where wood is scarce and va¬
luable.
The description of Udjani, the summer resi-
UDJANI.
115
dence of Abbas Mirza, which was reached on the
2Sth of May, and which did not please the em¬
bassy, possesses no interest. It is remarked, that
four small villages are seen from this castle, whose
inhabitants are in abject poverty, because they are
on the great road, in consequence of which they
must supply the government officers with provisions,
and attend to all their wants. This seems surpris¬
ing to General Yermolofl who surely forgets the
many similar sources of oppression in Russia, which
I have animadverted upon in various parts of these
volumes.
Two paintings, which were seen at Udjani, are
particularly described; the one in which Abbas
Mirza presents his regularly trained forces to the
Shach ; and the other, a victory gained by the Per¬
sians over the Russians, which draws forth indig¬
nation and laconic remarks from the General, who
could not conceive when or where the combat
took place. In speaking of the conquering chief
he will not allow that it was “ the Shach, who never
left his harem, which is crowded with beauties and
children;” nor Abbas Mirza, who “ never con¬
ducted his troops to victory,” and “ the fame of
whose combats, after a defeat, belonged to his fleet
horse, which saved its master by rapid flight.”
— “ The hero who was crowned with fame, is the
Englishman, Lindsay, a major in the army of the
East India Commercial Company,” who is satiri¬
cally compared to Jupiter. In one engagement*
i 2
lit) UDJANI.—THE KYME-MAKAUM’S SON.
we are told, that Abbas Mirza saved himself by
flight; and that only a single division of his army
remained unvanquished, i which consisted of his reives,
because precaution had removed them in good
time. After some other suppositions and similar
observations, the general discovers that the paint¬
ing represented the defeat of a battalion of the
Trinity regiment of infantry, of 300 men, who were
surrounded by the Persian army, and who made a
desperate resistance.
With the portraits of Napoleon and Alexander,
General Yermolof is not better pleased, and he
ascribes them to the imagination of the painter.
The ambassador is sometimes amusing amid his
dry though interesting details. After speaking
of the young son of Kyme-makaum, who, when
about seventeen years of age, married one of the
daughters of the Shach, and afterwards received
lessons, not only in the higher branches of educa¬
tion, but also in reading and writing, — he adds,
“ At his age a wife is not always the best guide to
wisdom.” In another place he expresses an idea,
that all court 'people, however much they differ in
morals or actions, should compose one tribe, who
should always be alone; as the difference of their
sentiments is only in the degree of the finesse of
villany.
We find the embassy, after its advance, in an
encampment at Sengilabat, on the Gth of June,
where it was determined to await the conclusion
COLONEL JOHNSON.
117
of the feast of' the Ramadan. Here were also
Colonel Johnson and Capt. Salter, who were on
their way from India to London. General Yer-
molof speaks of the Colonel “ as a learned man,
and impartial in his opinionswho “ was sur¬
prised at the poverty, and the small population of
Persia ; and whose remarks, respecting the morals
of the natives, are extremely interesting, and com¬
pletely coincide” with his own.* It is implied,
that Colonel Johnson’s impressions were not at all
favourable to the Persians, and it is stated that his
conduct seems to have been different fiom that of
our countrymen in the Persian service, “ who are
prodigal of all possible baseness for their own ad¬
vantage ; and the measure of whose flattery is
proportioned to their augmented payment for dis¬
honesty.” Hear this, ye Britons, with indignation!
From a Russian, who can bear it? Yet it ought to
be treated with silent contempt.
Colonel Johnson speaks in the highest manner
of General Yermolof) and of his conduct and hos¬
pitality ; and I believe, from various accounts, with
good cause. In General Yermoiof’s journal, how¬
ever, some illiberal remarks escape his pen.
Another account of the ambassador’s is very
amusing. Mr.-arrived from India, “ who
had been a resident at one of the Mahratta govern-
* Vide “Journey from India to London,'* which was pub¬
lished afterwards by the Colonel, for his own statements.
1 3
118
ANECDOTE. — AVANLOOG.
ments,” and who, after having passed fourteen years
in that country, was returning home “ with much
riches, acquired by his civil and diplomatic occu¬
pations.” The general here takes occasion to al¬
lude to “ the manner in which these gentlemen
steal in India, become rich in a short time, and set
out for England ; while a military man must serve
at least fifteen years there before he can save as
much money as will pay his passage home.” And
this is given upon an Englishman’s authority, whose
name I shall not mention, to avoid offence.
On the 19th, the embassy had reached Versagam,
where it was joined by Mr. Mazarovitch, from Te¬
heran, who brought a letter from Mirza Abdool
Wehab, a minister who possesses the complete con¬
fidence of the Shach, and is reckoned the best
informed of the nobles. On the 2Sd, it had its
station at Avanloog, “ where it was impossible to
remain, in consequence of swarms of bugs, which
are well known for their dreadful poison.” It soon
reached Miana, now become famous as the capital
of these singular insects. General Yermolof re¬
marks, it is singular that their bites are not attended
with danger to the inhabitants, while it is not an un¬
common occurrence for strangers to die from them.
“ The servant of an English officer, and one of our
Kozaks, who were a convoy, could not resist the
effects of their poison. The Persians cure them¬
selves from the eftects of this poison by the strictest
forbearance from every kind of nourishment for
POISONOUS liUGS OF JIIANA.
119
the space of forty days ; using nothing during that
period, except water with sugar # ; but still it oc¬
curs, that though they recover from the tirst effects
of the poison, they are ever afterwards troubled
with cramps and contractions of all their members.
This method of cure is adopted, certainly because
the Persians, on account of their stupidity, have
never tried any other.”
The Miana Bug, of late years, has made so much
noise, that it deserves the attention equally of the
naturalist and the physician. Although I regard
many of the stories respecting this formidable insect
as somewhat overcharged, yet there seems to be
no doubt, from the concurring testimony of tra¬
vellers, that its bite sometimes proves mortal. The
time at which death takes place, however, is very
differently stated, as may be remarked in the
following quotations, all of which appear to have
been taken from oral communications, and neither
of which is, perhaps, altogether correct.
Kotzebue says, that the Miana bug “is larger
than the European bug, and is of a grey colour,
approaching to black, and covered on the back by
a multitude of red spots. It conceals itself in the
walls, and prefers them in proportion to their long
standing. It is among them that these insects are
* The General either did not know, or had forgot, that sugar
is highly nutritious. Dissolved in water, however, it would
make but poor fare for a succession of forty days.
1 4
120
POISONOUS BUGS OF MIANA.
found m abundance, and that their sting is the
most dangerous. They never show themselves
during day, and though they fear the light, yet
that of lamps or candles does not cause them to
fly. They have infested Miana since time imme¬
morial ; and have spread themselves to the en¬
virons, where, however, they are somewhat less
dangerous. In winter they remain torpid, in the
holes of old walls; and, similar to that of all
venomous animals, their poison is more active
during the great heats of summer. It ought to
be remarked, with reference to this subject, that
the Persian houses are not built of brick; but
especially at Miana, and in all the villages, they
are formed of hardened masses of clay mixed with
cut straw. That which is marvellous, even unique,
with regard to the bite of these bugs is, that they
do not attack the natives; or, at least, the bite
which they inflict upon them, is not followed by
more serious consequences than that of the Eu¬
ropean bugs. But they make a cruel attack upon
foreigners who have the misfortune to pass a night
at Miana; and they often cause death in less than
twenty-four hours. I heard of two such examples.
All the English of Tabreez declared that they had
lost one of their servants at Miana, who was at¬
tacked by those terrible insects. He soon expe¬
rienced a violent heat of the whole body, fell into
a species of delirium, and at length expired in the
midst of dreadful convulsions. I have received
POISONOUS RUGS OF MIANA.
1*21
another account, not less worthy of' credit, from
Baron Wrede, who served a long time with dis¬
tinction in Georgia; and who, some years ago,
was sent as ambassador to Persia. When he pro¬
ceeded to Miana, the season was far advanced;
and, believing that he had nothing to fear from
the bugs, he passed the night there, but took the
precaution to keep a lighted candle in his room.
He experienced no bad consequences; but a Kozak
of his escort, on the following morning, had a
black spot upon his foot, became delirious at
times, and at length had paroxyms of madness.
The inhabitants recommended a remedy which is
used in a similar case: that is, to take the skin of
a bullock, and envelop the foot of the sick person
in it a while. Recourse was had to this measure,
but it was of no use, and the poor Kozak died in
agony. It is said that this plan generally suc¬
ceeds ; but it is necessary that the patient should
take nothing but sugar, and water, and honey, for
forty days. As I have already said, the natives
of Miana take these insects into their hands with¬
out danger.”* Kotzebue well exclaims, “ What
a happiness is it that these formidable insects do
not attach themselves to clothes, for they would
thus soon be propagated throughout Persia;” and
he might have added, throughout the world.
It appears that while the embassy was at Miana,
* Voyage en Perse, p. ISO
122
POISONOUS BUGS OF MIANA.
many of its members slept badly for fear of the
bugs; and that the apothecary, under the influ¬
ence of the same passion, walked about the whole
night.
Sir R. K. Porter informs us, that Miana and
the adjacent villages are infested with a kind of
small but poisonous bug, which it has been found
impossible to eradicate. “ It breeds,” says he,
“ in myriads, in all the old houses, and may be
seen creeping over every part of their walls, of the
size and shape of the bugs in Europe, only a little
flatter, and in colour of a bright red. Its bite is
mortal, producing death at the expiration of eight
or nine months . All strangers, not merely foreign¬
ers, but persons not usually inhabiting the town or
its vicinity, are liable to be thus poisoned; while
the people themselves, and the adjacent peasantry,
are either never bitten, or, if so, the consequences
are not more baneful to them than the sting of the
least noxious insect. The fatal effect of this bug,
however, upon strangers, being known as an abso¬
lute fact, every precaution is taken accordingly by
native and foreign travellers.”*
A gentleman who is now in London, having
brought some of the Miana bugs to Moscow, in
the spring of 1S23, made a present of one to
Professor Fischer, in whose cabinet I saw it. It
was this gentleman’s intention to give every detail
* Travels in Georgia, Persia, &c. vol. i. p.263.
EIIIDGES. — REMARKS ON PERSIA.
123
respecting the bugs in question, in thesecond volume
of his “Entomology of the Russian Empire or
as my learned friend, who assuredly is too fond of
new terms, calls it, the “ Entomographia de la
Russiea splendid and valuable work. I am in
expectation of being able to give some further
information about this real bugbear of Asia in the
Appendix.
Miana is famous for its carpets, which are made
of camel hair, and combine a variety of beautiful
colours.
On the 25 th, seventeen versts beyond Miana,
the embassy crossed a river, which is of consider¬
able breadth during an inundation, by a bridge
twenty-three arshins in length, which was erected
in the time of the Sophies, and of which Kotzebue
takes no notice, and passed the night atDjamalabad.
Three or four versts beyond this bridge lies the
chain of the Kaplanta hills, the ascent of which
is difficult, and the descent of which, extending to
about seven versts, ends abruptly at the river
Kisil-Osoun, across which is built a fine bridge of
three arches, of an extremely light and agreeable
appearance; and which, as far as I can judge by
the view of it in Kotzebue’s “ Voyage en Perse,”
does the architect much credit.
Here the ambassador notices the remains of a
fine paved road, which was formed in the time
of the Shach, Abbas Mirza the Great; and he
contrasts the remains of times gone by, with the
121<
NIK PE. SAM ANARCH IE.
productions of the present. The ruling monarch,
and the founder of the dynasty, Aga Mahomed
Khan, are compared to the Jews, who might have
taken an arend (a lease) of badly administered and
unfortunate Persia. “ All the present royal re¬
sidences ( palatniki ) of Persia consist in some
small palaces, in which are concealed an incredible
number of wives and mistresses. They greatly
resemble our workhouses, and only differ from
them in this, that in them the females are locked
up to prevent seduction, while, in ours, they are
reformed from vice.”
The embassy advanced by Sardjam to Nikpdj
where it was met by Abdool Mirza, one of the
sons of the Shach; and who administers the
territory in which it is situated. On the 30th of
June it reached Sanjan, where that prince has his
residence, and who received the general and his
suite with all possible politeness and attention.
According to the ambassador’s way of thinking,
this was done because he had been curiously
treated at Tabreez, that it might be reported how
well he was treated here, and that he knew how to
be grateful. The mehmandar asked permission to
depart before the embassy; because, according to
Persian divination, it was a lucky day; but
General Yermolof retained him on purpose that
he might be chagrined for his ignorance.
On the 5th July, the embassy encamped at the
forest of Samanarchie twelve versts from Sultania,
MIRZA ABDOOL WEHAB.
125
where Mirza Abdool Wehab, the minister and
the favourite of the Shach, was awaiting it. Mr.
Mazarovitch went and explained, that for General
Yermdlof’s rencontre , .no ceremony was necessary.
Here they found a much better camp than they
had hitherto had, and a guard of regular troops
was always stationed around them, who were
attached to the Shach, and arc called the Djan-
bazi j or, as some have it, the Djam-Bauze.
Abdool Wehab made the ambassador a visit,
which he returned on the following day. Persian
politeness and compliments were shown by the
minister, which the general despaired of being
able to equal, though he purposely uttered many
belles paroles . He had been previously informed,
that Abdool Wehab was authorised by the Shach
to open the preliminaries, so that, by the time of
His Majesty’s arrival, as much information as pos¬
sible might be obtained from him. But the am¬
bassador made a pretence of slight indisposition,
and for some days avoided frequent meetings.
This measure only seems to have increased the
impatience of the minister to commence negotia¬
tions before the arrival of the Grand Vizier, Mirza
Sheffi. Taking advantage of his acquaintance with
Mr. Mazarovitch, he invited him to his house, and
thus discovered that the Shach remained in full
assurance, agreeably to the representation of his
ambassador at Petersburgh, that all the territory
occupied by Russia would be restored, and that
12G DISCUSSIONS BETWEEN TIIE MINISTER
Karabagh especially would be demanded. As
Mr. Mazarovitch had no authority, he could say
nothing determinate upon these subjects ; but ac¬
cording to his own views, he very clearly com¬
bated the sayings of the minister. He represented
the power of Russia— her political situation — her
friendship with all her neighbours — and alluded
to her acquisitions from Turkey, even in the year
of the French invasion, 1812; and then demanded,
if he thought she would now consent to any res¬
titution, and especially of a country which she
most willingly protected with her great power.
The “ minister, the grandee, the favourite, and
the best informed person in Persia,” by no means
comprehended this reasoning, and at different times
sounded Mr. Mazarovitch as to the hope of Kara¬
bagh being restored. “ He said, that in case of re¬
fusal, a war might follow ; he boasted like a Per¬
sian, and what is more, like a slave and a courtier,
of the forces and the means of Persia. He added that
the Georgians, and the mountaineers in Daghistan
governed by Russia, were heartily devoted to the
Persian government, which had an envy for all
the territory to the gates of Tiflis. So much for
the knowledge of the Persian minister respecting
Russia, her means, and her power. They suppose
we are no more dangerous neighbours than the
Tichmentsi and the Avgantsi, especially since the
English have organised some regular forces and
artillery for them.”
AND GENERAL YERMOLOF.
127
On the 9th, Abdool Wehab through Mr. Ma-
zarovitch, sent his credentials from the Shach,
which authorised him to commence negotiations
with the ambassador, and soon afterwards he fol¬
lowed himself. “ I informed him that not yet
having had an audience with the Shach, I could
not negotiate with any body ; but that knowing
him to be a distinguished individual, I could not
deprive myself of the pleasure of his conversation.”
An explanation of four hours’ duration followed,
when General Yermolof informed the minister,
that lie had not come to Persia to seek the friend¬
ship of the Shach for his sovereign by the sacrifice
of provinces, whose inhabitants flew to the pro¬
tection of Russia, and whose allegiance he valued ;
and after assigning many reasons, or pretences, he
ended by telling him finally, that it was impossible
to cede any territories to the Shach. The discus¬
sions were carried on with frankness and all pos¬
sible moderation on both sides; and after separa¬
tion, the General returned the unopened credentials
of Abdool Wehab.
After the above interview, the Minister and the
General saw each other not less than ten or twelve
times, and the same subject always occupied their
attention. Mirza Abdool Wehab stated, that with¬
out the restitution of the territories, he suspected
the General would not be able to maintain the
bonds of friendship with Persia, and that the Shach
would be chagrined by a refusal to do so, as he
128
DISCUSSIONS CONTINUED.
had so long expected that measure. General Yer-
molof replied, that the Emperor, in consequence
of his regard for the Shach, would be extremely
sorry at any rupture, because he seriously wished
to preserve his friendship, while at the same time
he ought to protect those tribes committed to his
care. For his part, the General stated, that he
knew his duty in taking care of the dignity of his
sovereign, and of Russia, and added, “ if in the re¬
ception by the Shach I remark coldness, and if,
in the negotiations with whoever is appointed to
confer with me respecting affairs, I observe an
intention of violating the peace, I should not
suffer such conduct, and I myself would declare
war, and demand the territory to the A raxes.”
The General then entered into an explanation of
bis plans for the capture of the said territory,
which seems to have produced no serious impres¬
sion on Mirza Abdool Wehab. He therefore
adds, so as to alarm him seriously, “ I am sorry
that you reckon this rodomontade, but I could fix
the day when the Russian troops should be at
Tabreez ; indeed, I only wish that you would give
the word, that you would await me there for an
interview. I also added, that war would be un¬
fortunate for Persia, and would have distressing
consequences, and that it might be followed by
intestine broils, and the overthrow of the present
dynasty.” After various discussions, which some¬
times endured even above four hours, the General
DISCUSSIONS CONTINUED.
129
declared that Russia would not yield up any ter¬
ritory, and urged numerous reasons for his conduct.
Prince Bokovitch, who had been sent with a
letter to the Sacldar Aza, Mirza Sheffi, returned with
an answer that the Shach without fail would arrive
at Sultania on the 20th July, and his entrance into
the capital is noticed in next chapter.
VOL. II.
K
CHAP. XVI
ARRIVAL OF THE KING OF PERSIA AT SULTANIA. — HIS ATTEN¬
TION TO THE RUSSIAN EMBASSY. — IIIS NEGLECT OF THE
ENGLISH.—THE PALACE OF THE SHACII.—PREPARATIONS FOR
THE PRESENTATION OF THE AMBASSADOR. - THE GRAND
VIZIER MIRZA SHEFFI. — THE TYRANT AGA MAHOMED. —
ANECDOTES_PROPERTY OF MIRZA SHEFFI. - COURTIER-
CONDUCT OF GENERAL YERMOLOF.— PRESENTS OF THE EM¬
PEROR ALEXANDER TO THE KING OF PERSIA.-PRESENTATION
OF THE EMBASSY.— THE KING’S GRACIOUS CONDUCT.-PRE¬
SENTATION OF THE PRESENTS. —— THEIR TRANSPORT TO TE¬
HERAN, AND THE ASTROLOGERS. — GENERAL YERMOLOF’s
SELF-COMPLACENCY. — WANT OF FAITII IN THE PERSIANS.—
Alexander’s determination to retain the Persian
PROVINCES.-USELESS NEGOTIATIONS. — THE SIIACll’s CON-
SENT. — RECONCILIATION OF THE KYME-MAKAUM AND THE
RUSSIAN AMBASSADOR. — CURIOUS FESTIVAL OF GENERAL
YERMOLOF. — PRESENTS REFUSED BY HIS EXCELLENCY. —
ARRIVAL OF THE KING OF PERSIA AT SULTANIA. 131
PRESENTS ACCEPTED BY AN ENGLISH AMBASSADOR.—TREATY
OF PEACE SIGNED BETWEEN PERSIA AND RUSSIA.—FAREWELL
AUDIENCE OF THE SIIACII.- USUAL CEREMONIES.- RETURN
OF THE RUSSIAN EMBASSY TO TABREEZ.-TYRANNICAL CON¬
DUCT OF GENERAL YERMOLOF AT TABREEZ.-THE EMBASSY
REACHES TIFLIS.-VIEWS OF TIFLIS.— GENERAL APPEAR¬
ANCE OF KACHETIA.— COLLECTION OF TAXES IN GEORGIA.
SULTRY HEAT AT TIFLIS. — DEPARTURE.
As the Shach of Persia travelled by short journeys,
and was to arrive at Sultania on the day fixed by
his astrologers, which was somewhat distant, the
Russian embassy was detained about twenty days,
notwithstanding the extraordinary importance and
honour with which General Yermolof thinks he
was every where treated. During this period the
Russians suffered much from the heat of the cli¬
mate, which amounted daily to 30° of Reaumur.
They were also excessively troubled with clouds
of dust, in which they were at times completely
enveloped. Their joy was therefore so much the
greater, when a salute of artillery on the 20th July
announced the near approach of the sovereign ;
and many of the officers of the embassy went to
see the ceremony, as well as the ambassador
himself.
Troops of infantry lined the way for the extent
of a mile from the castle, between which the ca¬
valcade defiled in the following order:—an ele¬
phant bearing a rich canopy upon its back; fifty
camels carrying musicians, whose heads were sur¬
mounted by red caps, and whose instruments were
k 2
132 arrival of the king of Persia at sultania.
long trumpets and kettle-drums; four hundred
camels, which transported small one-pounder can¬
non, called zemboureks, which are attached to the
back of the animal, and turn upon a pivot, and
from which a volley was fired ; eighteen cannon;
twenty led horses very richly caparisoned; and
forty out-runners, the oddly-coloured feathers of
whose bonnets were formed into a crown.
The Shach, dressed in a very simple manner,
was mounted on horseback. According to Yer-
molof, the legs, tail, and mane of his grey steed
were embellished with orange-coloured paint; and
Kotzebue says, “ le cheval etoit tout resplendis-
sant de pierreries.” Near the Shach was Mirza
Sheffi, the Saddar Aza, alone ; and now and then
his oldest son Mahomed Ali, or his son-in-law and
first adjutant, Alajar-Khan, rode up to him. No
other individual approached His Majesty, and
Mahomed Ali, who had preceded his father at the
head of fifteen thousand cavalry, and seventeen of
the king’s other sons, superbly habited, and all
mounted upon beautiful horses, followed their
royal father, while a corps of cavalry closed the
procession. In this manner the Shach arrived at
the small, dirty, and clay-built palace, before which,
in place of a garden, are rows of trees with a
muddy stinking rivulet running among them, and
a basin of rude stones, whose green-coloured water
did not bespeak its good quality.
When the Shach was near the palace, according
THE SIIACH*S ATTENTION TO THE EMBASSY. 133
to the custom of the country, a camel was immo¬
lated. The Shach quitted his horse, when fifty
small cannon were fired, and the bloody head of
the animal was placed at the sovereign’s feet.
The Shach having remarked some of the officers
of the embassy, and the ambassador incognito , who
were uncovered, raising himself upon his stirrups,
he saluted them by frequently repeating Koschslceldi,
i. e. You are welcome. This circumstance is said
to have astonished all; and the Persians again de¬
ceived the Russians by telling them, that hitherto
their monarch had never granted such an honour
to any individual, and that no person had ever
seen him raise himself in his stirrups. The French
translator of Kotzebue, with great truth remarks,
the Russians never neglect the most trifling oc¬
casion of making known the honours which their
ambassadors receive, et qn’ils pretendent avoir etc
refuses aux legations precedentes; and although
he could not see that General Gardanne and the
English ambassadors could have desired more ce-
remony, yet General Yermolof was of a very dif¬
ferent way of thinking. The following remark
will excite the laugh of every individual at all
acquainted with the affairs of Persia, in allusion to
the above conduct of the king.
“ The Persians and I,” says Yennolofj “ be¬
lieved this a rarity, because, at the same time, the
English Charge d'affaires, who had been at this court
seven years, together with some officers of the
k 3
134< THE SHACH’s NEGLECT OF THE ENGLISH.
mission, though they had alighted from their
horses, and made the lowest reverences, yet did
not attract the smallest attention from the Shach.”
A second salute of artillery announced that the
Shach had entered the palace, when the troops
dispersed. In this palace live the wives and the
concubines of the king; among the latter were
many dancers, who amuse His Majesty in the
harem. In a camp at a short distance were sta¬
tioned his sons, who were permitted to have their
seraglios with them till the arrival of their royal
father.
Led by curiosity, the General visited the palace,
which he found so small, “ that in it was not a room
for every day of the week, that one of the apartments
was disgustingly dirty, and that in the best apart¬
ments were partitions covered with mats, such as
arc used to cover hay.”
After the king had been six days at Sultania, he
is said to have been surprised that the ambassador
remained at Samanarchie; and, it is concluded,
that he was ignorant of the fact, that his minister
had not appointed rooms and other conveniencies
for the embassy, the expences of which, neverthe¬
less, were thrown upon the nobles.
Between the palace and the place for the en¬
campment of the embassy, an immense space was
destined. Merchants, from the environs, had re¬
ceived orders to go to Sultania, and near the camp
a large bazar was formed.
On the 2Gth the Shach sent an officer, named the
PREPARATIONS FOR THE PRESENTATION. 135
Safer Khan, to conduct the embassy to Sultania.
The order of the procession is described by Kotze¬
bue. In their progress thither they were much
troubled with dust, which was greatly augmented
when the Valli, or Prince of Kourdistan, at the
head of some thousand Coordes, joined, and then
preceded it, as a mark of honour. “ Such ceremony
was never allowed to the Tsars of Georgia when
they were subject to Persia.”
“ Like elephants, which in Russia attract the
curiosity of the common people, so I entered the
camp, followed by an immense crowd, and was
soon afterwards visited by the most distinguished
personages, who came to congratulate me on my
arrival, and who sent me a great quantity of fruit
and confections. In Persia cucumbers are esteemed
a valuable present, and beans are a rarity. Such
dainties were sent us every day, and often with the
reckoning that the servants would receive more
for them than their intrinsic value. The Shach
himself sent nothing better, except at times some
wild fowl, which were shot by himself that he
might show his peculiar benevolence and favour.”
But, it seems, these royal presents cost dear, as
they were always overpaid to the officer who
accompanied them ; and, besides, some money was
given to be divided among the servants. “ Fo¬
reigners may escape from this tax; but, when the
Shach bestows similar favours upon the nobles, he
also informs them what sums they ought to give
k 4
136 THE GRAND VIZIER MIRZA SIIEFFI.
their bearers. Through extreme avarice, lie some¬
times receives these sums, or they are reckoned as
part of the salaries of those who are honoured with
them.
General Yermolof visited Mirza Slieffi, the
Grand Vizier, also called Saddar Asa, who is about
eighty years of age, during more than forty of
which he has performed the duties of his present
office, having held it during the reigns of three so¬
vereigns. According to Kotzebue, he is a little
man, whose voice is weak, and even sepulchral;
but who had his share of vanity, used du blanc et
da rouge, and even affected vivacity in his demean¬
our. Although overloaded with affairs, he assured
the officers of the embassy, that under a prince,
such as the present Shach, the ministry was only a
bagatelle, and that his old age was not overcharged
by it. During the infernal administration of Ali
Mahomed Khan, he was oftener than once sub¬
jected to punishment, and in the school of adver¬
sity he learned lessons of wisdom which enabled
him to support even injustice with an equal mind,
and to disappoint the intrigues of those who formed
schemes for his ruin. He is reckoned one of the
most interesting characters in Persia, and many
anecdotes and stories are related of him, two of
which may be noticed.
In the reign of Aga Mahomed Khan, the pre¬
decessor of the present sovereign, who was a
eunuch, Mirza Slieffi experienced every kind of
THE TYRANT AGA MAHOMED.
137
opposition and disgust, so that, spite of his love
tor his country, he was at different times upon the
point of begging his resignation. Aga Mahomed
had been the victim of the most shameful treat¬
ment in his youth, because it was intended to pre¬
vent his ascent to the throne. Putting himself,
however, at the head of an intrepid and devoted
party, he assumed the sovereign power, which he
could not maintain, except by unheard-of cruelty.
These circumstances generated in his breast a gene¬
ral hatred of the human race. Given up to the
most extraordinary caprice, sometimes he had be¬
lief in every body, sometimes he had confidence in
none, not even in himself. He also became the
victim of drunkenness ; and, in his sober moments,
he often regretted the orders he had issued when
in a state of insensibility. It is also said, that he
sometimes shed bitter tears for the fate of his fa¬
vourites whom he had immolated the preceding
night. Endowed with a martial spirit, often ex¬
cited to fury, he dreamt of nothing but war and
battles. Misfortune drove him to the greatest ex¬
tremes, and at length that fate, which generally
awaits all unbounded tyrants —all cruel and bloody
despots—laid him prostrate in the dust. The seve¬
rity of his punishment, had he been conscious of it,
was augmented by the fact that he fell by his own
guards.
It is impossible not to admire the means by which,
through the goodness of Providence, the most des-
13S
ANECDOTES.
potic sovereign is ruled or moderated by his sub¬
jects—the most overbearing lord of the soil by his
slaves—and the rich by the poor. That direful
passion, revenge, on some occasions, seems a vir¬
tue, and is of such a potent nature, as to fear no
danger, and to brave death. It tends to maintain
a certain equilibrium, in every state of society,
between all ranks of its members. It is true, that
human nature often suffers much and suffers long ;
but when an opportunity offers, even the weak be¬
come strong, and revenge has its victory. Ye
despots and tyrants think of this, and of the fate of
your predecessors in all ages and in all countries,
and reform, or tremble, for an untimely death most
likely awaits you.
Mirza Sheffi was daily in the cabinet of the Shach,
and was obliged to write to his dictation. When
the king was in a bad humour, he tormented this
minister in every manner. One day the sovereign,
forgetting himself loaded him with reproaches, and
ordered him to take a note of them. He therefore
dictated the most offensive accusations against him¬
self. According to the impetuous monarch, his
minister was an ambitious person, who sought an
opportunity to deceive him, who allowed him no
repose, and who took pleasure in distressing him,
and preventing his sleep. The minister wrote tran¬
quilly, without allowing himself to be put out of
countenance by the torrent of invectives. Furious
at seeing him calm, the prince threw his cushion
ANECDOTES.— PROPERTY OF MIRZA SI1EFFI. 139
at his head, then his pipe enriched with diamonds,
and every thing else within his reach, and at length
fired a pistol at him. The ball passed through the
beard of the Vizier, and broke his shoulder-bone.
He fell, bathed in blood, and the cruel monarch
went to sleep.
The cure of Mirza Shcffi was not accomplished
before six months, during which time he did not
appear at court. The Shach did not once deign to
enquire respecting him; and when he heard of his
convalescence, he remitted to him the helm of
affairs.
On another occasion the prince caused the fatal
noose to be put on Mirza Sheffi’s neck, but, by
good fortune, the minister presented a copy of the
Koran, which he always carried with him, and this
book served him as his safeguard.
“ The Grand Vizier having lost all his sons, seemed
to be in despair that he would have no kindred to
whom he could leave his noble property in heritage.
He is rich through extreme avarice; and yet he
continues, by every means, to increase his wealth;
formerly the French, but now the English, make
him presents, so as to have success in their affairs.
Still the Shach has found the means of getting part
of the Grand Vizier’s effects, even during his life,
by the marriage of one of his sons to his daughter.
Although only ten years of age, it is already two
years since she lost her promised {affiance) but as
140 COURTIER CONDUCT OF GENERAL YERMOLOF.
the Shach lias seventy sons, she will have no diffi¬
culty in choosing another husband.”
The old Vizier paid Persian politeness to Ge¬
neral Yermolof, who found himself, in all civility,
bound to repay it. That he might show some
address*, he began by showing surprise at his great
offices and virtues, and the old man received his
caresses as sincere. “ I formed an acquaintance
with him. I begged his instructions as those of an
experienced and sagacious man, and assured him,
that being taught by him, I could not show a
greater mark of attachment than to give him the
name of father, and, like an obedient son, by act¬
ing toward him with frankness on all occasions
and in all affairs.—I returned to him as to a
father, but when it was necessary to produce some¬
thing new, or to alarm him, then preserving all
filial respect, I assumed the place of an ambassa¬
dor. I showed myself to this iEgis only on the
most urgent occasions, and always returned with
triumph.”
The Grand Vizier made a visit to General Yer¬
molof, after which he, as well as the principal
officers, went to examine the presents which were
designed for the Shach; and which, according to
Kotzebue’s enumeration and valuation, were most
magnificent. They consisted of sets of beautiful
crystal and china, vases, telescopes, gold snuft-
* Vide p. 147. of this volume.
PRESENTS TO THE KING OF PERSIA. 141
boxes, immense-sized looking-glasses, jewels,
watches, furs, &c. Among the letter the above-
named author says, there were two sable dresses,
“ deux fourures de martre zebeline,” each of which
was valued at thirty thousand roubles. * Accord¬
ing to Kotzebue, Asiatics as they were, the visitors
were struck with inexpressible astonishment, and
could only articulate the monosyllables pah ! pah !
and houp! houp !
“ With much self-complacency,” says General
Yermolof “ the Shach gave me the first audience
in a tent, which was erected in a court near the
palace. The ceremony for me was different from
that which had been in use on all similar occasions.
All preceding foreign ambassadors had put on red
stockings t, and were conducted without slippers.
I entered in ordinary boots, and was received with
peculiar regard.”
All preparations had been made for the cere¬
mony, after considerable negotiations about eti¬
quette, which were at length arranged with much
trifling, and, according to the ambassador, “ as he
desired.”
The forces being properly disposed, General Yer-
molof received Mahomed Khan, the second aide-
de-camp, who was accompanied by a number of
officers, in his principal tent, after which they pro-
* Voyage en Perse, p. 21S. and The Character of the Itus-
vians, &c. p.28I.
t Vide p. 347. of this volume.
142
PRESENTATION OF THE EMBASSY.
ceeded to the castle. The tent of the Shach was
erected in the second court, in which the monarch
gave audience. But the ambassador was compli¬
mented by the first adjutant-general and son-in-law
of the Shach, named Alajar Khan, at the exit of
the first court, where tea, coffee, and the kalioon
were presented. That officer, after leaving the
tent, soon returned, and announced that the Shach
was ready to receive the ambassador, who accord¬
ingly advanced, accompanied only by two coun¬
sellors of the mission, one of whom carried the
letter of the Emperor upon a gold plate. The
ambassador himself remitted the letter to the
Shach, and at the same time pronounced the fol¬
lowing speech: “ The Emperor of Russia, my
powerful monarch, firm in his principles as in his
sentiments, professes high esteem for the person of
Your Majesty, and for the glory which surrounds
it. He desires to consolidate for ever the peace
which he has concluded with Persia, and which is
the happiness of Your Majesty. 1 reckon myself
happy in having been chosen to be the bearer of
these vows to Your Majesty. God is witness of
his good intentions with respect to Persia.” This
specious and courtier-like harangue was translated
into the Turkish language, which the Shach speaks
very well, by Mr. Negri.
“ The Prince,” says Kotzebue, “ asked the am¬
bassador to be seated, an honour which no Eu¬
ropean had ever received j” and, he adds, “ nous
THE KING’S GRACIOUS CONDUCT
143
y avions ajoutc 1’innovation bardie de paroitre en
bottes.”
After waiting about a quarter of an hour under
tbe first tent, the officers were conducted to the
audience. Tbe adjutant-general took off'his slippers,
but they only saluted the monarch. He intro¬
duced thdm in tbe following terms: “ Tbe officers
of tbe Russian embassy desire to have the honour
to approach tbe dust of the feet of Your Majesty:
they await your orders.” Tbe Shach turned to¬
wards them, and cried Koschkeldi , Koschkeldi; i. e.
You are welcome! After they had taken off their
hats and had entered below the tent, the ambassa¬
dor rose, and begged permission of the Shach to
introduce them individually, to which he consented.
He behaved to all of them in the most affable and
agreeable manner •, “ but in his conversations with
some of them he did not understand how to con¬
ceal his extreme pride, which did not appear a
good omen for my affairs; in this, however, I was
much mistaken.”
Kotzebue gives the particulars of this audience,
to which the reader is referred. On one point,
however, I shall not hesitate about quoting both
him and General Yermolof. “ Feth-Ali-Shach,”
says Kotzebue, “ is of a middle stature; he has
large and quick eyes, and a majestic brow ; all the
lower part of his face is concealed by his long beard,
which nearly descends to his knees. * The beauty
* See an excellent portrait of the King of Persia, in SirR. K.
Porter’s Travels. Frontispiece, vol. i.
144
PRESENTATION OF THE PRESENTS.
of this beard is celebrated throughout Persia, and
the subjects are in the custom of invoking it in
their most solemn oaths.” *
When visiting the palace, General Yermolof saw
two portraits of the King of Persia, one of which
he afterwards found was destined for the emperor,
and the other for himself; and he remarked, that
both of them were painted in the “ most humble
manner, and showed that the Shach’s pretensions
consist in this, that his long beard should be painted
still longer than it is in reality; that his eyes were
the very blackest, when they are not so,” Sec.
“ At the conclusion of the audience,” says Kot¬
zebue, “ the prime minister entered the tent and
seated himself near us. The Shach, in a loud
voice, said all kinds of flattering things with re¬
spect to the ambassador, and particularly praised
the politeness of the General, who rose up every
time he addressed the monarch.” t
According to Yermolof’s account, the impatience
of the Shach to see the presents destined for him,
and respecting which he had heard much to excite
his curiosity, induced him to give the ambassador
another audience. But Kotzebue says, “ That he
might not give himself too much up to profane
pleasures, during the Ramadan, the King of Persia
did not wish to see the presents before the expira¬
tion of the fast.”
* Voyage cn Perse, p. 233.
f Ibid. p. 235.
PRESENTATION OF THE PRESENTS. 14-5
On the 3d of August, the ceremony of their pre¬
sentation took place, and, as usual, the General
finds that he was treated in a very flattering man¬
ner j for, “ contrary to general custom, the Sliach
received them himself.” He is said to have been
ravished by them, especially by the large iooking-
glasses, and the crystal. The furs, already no¬
ticed, were so beautiful, that the Persians thought
they were painted; but the ambassador protested
against this, and said that the Emperor Alexander
had chosen them with his own hands. At these
last words the Russians make the King to say, very
awkwardly, while pressing his hand upon the furs,
“ May my hand repose upon the same place which
the powerful Emperor of Russia has touched! My
friendship is pure and sincere; it will endure for
ever.” *
The Shach ordered his minister to send a courier
to Teheran without delay, so as to order a parti¬
cular part of the palace to be reserved for the
presents; and added, that if they got safe to that
capital, a thousand tomauns should be the reward
of such news; but, that if the smallest thing were
lost, he who neglected his duty should answer for
his fault with his head. This is related so by Kot¬
zebue, who seems to make the Shach say any thing
he pleases, and to utter speeches which do the
monarch no credit. It must be added, however.
* Voyage en Perse, p. 24h
JLr
VOL. JL
146 THE ASTROLOGERS. — SELF-COMPLACENCY.
that this author does not seem to err in this inten¬
tionally, for he every where speaks of the King of
Persia, his talents, and conduct, and wisdom, in
terms of the highest admiration.
The King occupied the evening in exhibiting
the imperial presents to sixty of his wives, and on
the following day they were packed up, so as to be
sent to Teheran. But when all was ready, his
astrologers stated that it was necessary to wait three
times twenty-four hours for a favourable constel¬
lation, and, when the day arrived which was fixed
upon by their calculations, they required that the
presents should at first follow a route quite opposite
to that of Teheran, because, as they maintained,
the propitious stars took that direction.
General Yermolof speaks in the most complaisant
style, with respect to the Shach’s attachment to
him ; and Kotzebue relates, that this ambassador
had frequent interviews with the King, who was so
highly pleased with him, that he absolutely wished
to retain him at his court, and pressed him to ask
permission from the Emperor Alexander to do so.
What, have the General and his flatterer forgot the
Persian politeness, which they frequently ridicule!
Having delivered the presents both to the Shach
and to the nobles, General Yermolof told Mirza
Bhefli, that it was necessary to begin business; and
it was agreed that the communication between
them should be upon paper, because it had been
fpund by the ambassador’s predecessors “ that the
want of faith.--Alexander’s determination. 117
Persians neither reckon it a shame nor a dishonour
to deny that which they had said in public, or
upon oath.” Although the General had no great
pretensions to be a courtier, upon which his cha¬
racter did not depend, yet, as a heavy responsi¬
bility lay upon him, he wrote all the letters himself
to the minister, in which he explained that his
grand object was to make known the design of the
Russian government to retain all the provinces
whose restitution Persia so powerfully entreated.
This information seems to have made a very strong
sensation at the court, and no one, according
to representation, was likely to choose to make
it known to the King. The General had already
given such a statement to Mirza Abdool Wehab,
during his residence at Simanarchie, who, like
Mirza Bezoork, pretended that lie dared not com¬
municate it to his sovereign. To release him
of this difficulty, the ambassador promised that he
would inform the Shach himself) But this was
what the Persian ministry dreaded, and fearing that
he really sought an opportunity of making such a
communication, they told him that they had tomake
a proposition without the knowledge of the Shach;
that it would be but an act of justice that Russia
should restore the provinces in question, or at least,
part of them. “ I told them,” says the General,
“ for the last time, that I myself, as commander-
in-chief in Georgia, upon whom devolved the care
of the frontier, had informed the Emperor that it
l 2
148 USELESS NEGOTIATIONS.—THE SIIACH’s CONSENT.
was not possible to make the smallest cession, and
that this sovereign gave me leave to speak in his
name. I remarked, that this answer was received
as somewhat definitive, for the same demand was
afterwards but feebly repeated.” At one of the
conferences the conversation turned upon Mir/a
Bezoork. He was no friend to Russia, and had ex¬
cited the enmity of General Yermolofi who in¬
formed both the Grand Vizier and Mirza Abdool
Weliab that the malice of the Kyme-makanm at
the court of Tabreez might have direful conse¬
quences ; and that this low villain might be the
cause of the rupture of the friendship between
Russia and Persia, and of years of tears. An
ambassador was despatched to Petersburgh, and
in the meantime dinners and amusements followed,
which are described by Kotzebue, as well as in
the journal of General Yermolof, but which need
not be noticed here.
On the 1 Oth of August, the ambassador received
a paper from Mirza Sheffi, by which it appeared
that the Shach put more value upon the friendship
of Alexander than upon the provinces whose res¬
titution he had so earnestly desired. This deter¬
mination was opposed by some of the ministers,
but the eldest son of the king, Mahomed Ali Mirza,
was also for peace ; and, according to General Yer-
molof’s opinion, he was of his royal father’s opinion
for his own advantage. During a war with Rus-
sia, the appointed heir-presumptive, Abbas Mirza,
RECONCILIATION OF IiEZOORK AND YERMOLOF. I 1<<>
between whom and Mahomed Ali there is eternal
enmity, has much greater trust confided to him,
demands more money, and maintains more troops
than in time of peace ; and that prince well knows
that when he shall be obliged to fight for the suc¬
cession, these forces will be turned against him.
At length the Shach himself orally communicated
his consent to the retention of the provinces by
Russia, but the ministers wished to make the am¬
bassador feel “ that this was a peculiar mark of the
Shach’s kindness,” an act which was not wished
to be so understood. By the entreaties of Mirza
Sheffi and Mirza Abdool Wehab, General Yermo-
lof consented to put an end to the discontentment
between himself and Mirza Bezoork. Accordingly,
Mirza Sheffi invited the ambassador to his house,
where was the Kyme-makaum, who was previously
warned, and who was ready to forget the past and
to be a friend. “ We consented,” says the Ge¬
neral, “ without explanation, and assured each
other of friendship which never could have place
in our breasts.” On both sides were the same
kind of feelings, and the same measure of faith :
to all promises were given the most seemly exte¬
rior. The Shach was highly pleased at this cir¬
cumstance, because “ he was sorry that the Kyme-
makaum had given me cause for discontentment,
and regretted that I treated him like canaille.”
Visits were interchanged, and the ambassador and
the Kyme-makaum saw each other daily as friends.
150
yermolof’s curious festival.
General Yermolof received numerous invitations,
which he refused. Along with his suite he dined
at Mirza Sheffi’s, and at Nizam ut Doulut’s, the
grand treasurer of the kingdom, governor of* Ispa¬
han, and one of the richest individuals in the
country. At the adjutant-general’s, Alajar Khan;
at the Valli’s, the Prince of Coordistan, who is a
vassal of the king of Persia; and at Mirza Abdool
Weluib’s, they drank tea.
Wishing to give a general fete before his de¬
parture, the General ordered preparations to be
made, and thought lie might ask whom he pleased
to be present. But the proposed festival, on the
contrary, became a state affair. The Grand Vizier
made a report respecting it, for the king’s ex¬
amination. The Shach allowed that it should take
place; but of the list of individuals whom it was
intended to invite, some names were erased, on
account of the inequality of their rank with that
of others, and some, because they could not be
present in the same room ; so that in place of’
forty or fifty persons, whose names were in the
list, there were only ten or twelve individuals
chosen. The highest of the clergy were then
consulted as to this point; whether, according to
the Koran, it was permitted to visit an Infidel?
“ The Mussulmans cannot use food which is pre¬
pared by Christians, and therefore it was impossible
that they could come to me ; but the fear that a
refusal would cause niv displeasure, induced the
PRESENTS REFUSED BY YERMOI.OF.
151
•assembly of“ the clergy to send a number of their
servants, who should carve the meats, prepare tea,
See. ; and so the feast took place.” It appears,
however, that all were much restrained by their
doubts or their principles; though, “at the conclu¬
sion of the festival, not one whole dish remained
upon the table.” Every individual chose that
whose exterior pleased him, and asked the General
to order it to be conveyed to his house. This
puts me in mind of the practice in Russia of
pocketing the fruit, confections, &c., after dinner,
which is done in the most open manner, even in the
highest houses.
When at the house of Nizam ut Doulut,
General Yermolof was treated with the highest
respect; and the host, after examining a finger
of his left hand, put an excessively large ring upon
it. The General withdrew his hand, and informed
him, that such presents, and given in such a
manner, he did not receive ; and that on the mor¬
row he would more conveniently tell him why.
The landlord considered this as the greatest
affront; and indeed, during dinner, he pro¬
posed, if the General would not have the ring,
to give him a very precious stone: but he “ kept
himself aloof and threatened an interruption of
friendship if he persisted in his conduct.” This
account is followed by an anecdote for the
English.
“The Grand Vizier, Mirza Sheffi, presented a
l t
152 PRESENTS TO ENGLISH AMEASSADOK.-TREATY.
ring to one of the English ambassadors, and the
Englishman did not put him to shame by its
refusal; certainly having regard to the intrinsic
value of the stone/’—“ It would be agreeable to
me, at least, that the Persians did not estimate my
conduct by my own interest; especially as they
relate, that this English ambassador, without
shame, carried presents with him of great value.
On the following day, the Grand Vizier, Mirza
Sheffi, also sent me pearls in a present; but, in the
same manner, I refused them.”
A treaty of peace between Russia and Persia was
concluded and signed on the 27th of August, and
the 29th was fixed for the departure of the embassy.
It is the custom in Persia, that ambassadors, or
individuals of consequence who have been in¬
troduced at the court, receive a robe of honour,
in which they show themselves at the farewell
audience. “General Yermolof,” says Kotzebue,
“ declared that he would not submit to this
ceremonial, and that a Russian would oflend his
sovereign if he put on another dress above his
uniform. The King admitted this excuse, and
made in our favour this first, and perhaps last,
derogation from etiquette he, however, sent the
cloth necessary for making such dresses.
At the farewell audience, the royal presents
were received by every one of the embassy accord¬
ing to his rank. The decoration of the first class of
the order of the Lion and the Sun was bestowed upon
FAUEWELI, AUDIENCE. —r- USUAL CEREMONIES. 1.05
General Yermolof; and that of the second and
third orders upon other individuals. The officers
do not seem to have been much pleased with their
treatment on this occasion; for Kotzebue states,
that with the exception of the two counsellors of
the embassy, who were a little better treated, each
of them received nothing else than a shawl, and
two pieces of brocade. He says the shawls were
mostly pierced by holes cl converts de reprises, and
wishes that his Persian majesty would avert the
tricks of those of his house who cause a shawl to
pass, perhaps, through four or five hands, before
it arrives at the happy mortal who ought to pre¬
serve so precious a morsel. I shall not follow the
embassy on its return to Tabreez, where General
Yermolof was received in the kindest manner,
and treated with much attention; be and his
friend, the Kyme-makaum, sometimes behaving
as if they were really reconciled to each other;
at other times, upon the point of a quarrel. Abbas
Mirza conducted himself with the utmost prudence,
dignity and condescension. Dinners, fireworks,
and other amusements were given to the embassy,
as well as singing-parties, which might better
have been dispensed with ; as the vocal powers
of the natives seem to have had no charms tor the
Russians. Indeed, when at Zenjan, on his return,
the ambassador, after speaking of the music of his
band in terms of high approbation, adds: “The
sounds of sweet harmonious music had never
15 l< RETURN OF THE RUSSIAN EMBASSY.
gladdened the ears of the Persians ; among whose
instruments, the bagpipe and the cymbal might
occupy an important place.” But they prefer the
trumpet and the tambarine. “Their elegance
in singing, consists in a dreadful yell, and the
wildest mutations of the voice. — Such music
even is the Shach’s.” Yet the Persians, “ to whom
the bray of an ass is no disagreeable sound,” asked
the ambassador, “ if there was as much skill and
sensibility in the Russian music?”
At Tabreez, according to the MSS. it was
with great difficulty that peace was preserved;
for the embassy had scarcely arrived before a
quarrel took place. Mr. Mirshe, a French officer,
who called himself a colonel of Napoleon’s guards,
and a chevalier of the Legion of Honour, would
not permit the musicians to take up their quarters
in a house destined for them. According to Yer-
molofj he not only endeavoured to drive them
away by bawling, but even struck one of them two
blows with his sabre. General Yermolof sent to
inform Abbas Mirza of the affair, and to demand
satisfaction. The Prince immediately sent an
officer to assure the General that the Frenchman
should be punished ; but when the ambassador
asked leave to be a witness of the action, he
perceived that there was a design to deceive him.
Perhaps forgetting his proper place, or acting a la
Russc, the General immediately sent his adjutant
and six grenadiers to take the delinquent under
TYRANNICAL CONDUCT. — EMBASSY AT TIFLIS. 155
arrest; and if they did not find him at home, to
wait for him. Those musicians whom lie had
struck were ordered, besides, to employ the cas¬
tigation of the -pleli, or whips.* When Mr. Mirshe
arrived at his quarters, he wished to defend his
conduct by new impertinences, but a gentle blow
laid him prostrate. His clothes were then opened,
and the flagellation was effectually bestowed. His
sabre, which had been taken from him, was sent
by the General to Abbas Mirza; thereby signi¬
fying that it was to be hoped he would not have
such a rascal in his service. The answer was,
that he should be chased away from the town.
The sabre, however, was not received; because,
foreseeing the future, Abbas Mirza locked himself
up in the harem ; so that the messenger could not
be admitted. That prudent prince, however, by
this conduct, showed his evident and well-merited
displeasure at the illegal, dictatorial, and even
tyrannical proceeding of General Yermolofl It
was an act worthy of a tyrant, after the gentle
procedure of Abbas Mirza; and is no doubt well-
remembered. The journal of the ambassador, from
Tabreez to Tiflfs, contains little that is worthy of
translation ; and, besides, it is time for us to aban¬
don him to the politicians of Europe and Asia,
and to return to our travels.
During our residence at Tiflis, our time was
* Vide p, 101. of Vol. I
1.56 VIEWS OF TIFLIS.-GERMAN COLONIES.
occupied in visiting every object of interest, and
taking views of the town, one of which heads the
present chapter. * We also went to see an ad¬
joining German colony, previous to noticing which
I shall add a few general remarks.
The colonies of Wirtemburghers have received
every encouragement from General Yermolof, and
are settled in various parts of Georgia upon lands
which have been assigned them, t Houses have
been built for them, and they have been provided
both with cattle and seed, as well as assisted with
money. It is said that they have greatly improved
the state of agriculture, and every kind of rural
and industrious employment. They bring butter,
cheese, vegetables, and even beer to the market
at Tiflis.
The colony in the suburbs of Tiflis, which we
visited, seemed to be in a prosperous condition.
There a Frenchman also resided, who was famous
as a cook, and who furnished an excellent dinner
and good wines, by order of a gentleman who in¬
vited us to a party. These Germans are reported
to show their gratitude to the Russian government
by their docility and their industry. Notwith¬
standing the dreary appearance of the neighbour¬
hood of Tiflis, it is said that the soil is very rich,
and that it is sufficient to craze its surface and to
o
throw in the seeds, which yield thirty for one.
* Vide p. 513- Vol. I.
| P.22. Vol.If.
GENERAL APPEARANCE OF KACIIKTfA. 1.07
This fertility is assigned as one of the causes of
the idleness of the natives.
Having finished our trip in Georgia, we could
well appreciate the general accuracy of Sir II.
Porter, who speaks of the extreme beauty of the
valleys of Ivachetia, of its hills and mountains
clothed with the finest woods, of its gardens which
yield fruits of the choicest flavour, and its vine¬
yards which produce the most delicious grapes. He
justly adds, that Kachetian wines, both redand white,
have always been esteemed for softness, lightness,
and delicacy of taste, beyond those of any other
district in the province of Georgia. “ The val¬
leys of Kachctia are abundant in hemp, flax, rice,
millet, barley, and wheat;” and they may almost
be said to grow spontaneously. Pheasants, many
kinds of wild fowl, antelopes, deer, sheep, and all
sorts of domestic cattle, enrich these luxuriantly
pastured vales. The rivers, too, add their tribute
of plenty to the ample stores of nature. Many of
the treasures of the mineral world maybe found in
the hearts of its mountains, and the climate is de¬
lightful. “ Indeed, heaven seems to have drawn
to this happy spot the essence of all that is neces¬
sary to the wants of man. But, alas, the man
who has been placed in this earthly paradise to
keep, to dress, and to enjoy it, has neither the
will to separate the weed from the good herb, nor
the taste to feel that it is sweeter than his neigh¬
bour’s. Sunk in apathy, he cares not whether rain
158 COLLECTION OF TAXES IN GEORGIA.
or sunshine descend on the ground; Abandoned
to indolence, it is all one to him, whether his food
be the bramble or the grape ; and for personal
comfort, the stye would afford as pleasant a pillow
as a bed of flowers; such is the present Kachetian.”
From this statement we may remark the sad de¬
terioration of character in the Kachetians, com¬
pared to their ancestors, the renowned Albanians.
Speaking of Georgia, Kotzebue informs us, with
respect to the collection of the revenue, that, in the
month of November, the governor usually traverses
(; parcourt ) the frontiers, and visits the different
khans subject to pay tribute to Russia; that the
chiefs have the custom of making considerable
presents, which cannot be refused without offend¬
ing them; and that the General has found the
means of accepting of these gifts sans lours causer
trop de prejudice. He has begged the khans not
to give him any thing but sheep, which constitute
their principal riches, and he sends these animals
to the regiments. Small Hocks are formed of
them, which it is not difficult to support, as the
meadows yield plenty of pasture during the whole
year. *
The 1st and 2d of July we passed at Tifhs
in the most disagreeable manner; for, although
the temperature did not exceed SG° and 90° Fah¬
renheit in the shade, there was an oppressive sul-
* Voyage cn Perse, p. 52.
SULTRY HEAT AT TIFLIS, —DEPARTURE. 159
triness in the atmosphere which almost made life
a burden. We had been lucky enough to get a
very large room at an Armenian’s, in which we
opened all the windows, and created a circulation
of air as far as that was practicable in a still day.
Wc also sprinkled the floor with water, and used
ablutions with water and vinegar, notwithstanding
which we were excessively restless, hot, and un¬
comfortable. As the degree of heat was not very
great, I am inclined to attribute these effects to a
particular local state of the air, which may arise
from the nature of the vicinity of Tiflxs and its
situation in a narrow valley, as well as from that
condition of the atmosphere which often precedes a
thunder-storm, and which is generally attended by
a degree of oppression that temperature alone does
not explain.
A thunder-storm in the evening, which was ac¬
companied and followed by much rain, had but a
transient effect upon the air, for we passed a rest¬
less night, and the following day, the 2d, proved
equally disagreeable; so that we were glad to es¬
cape from Tiflis in the evening; having previously
obtained our orders and letters for those who
were to assist us in passing the Caucasus.
CHAP. XVII.
ARRIVAL AT KIIARTISKARST.— DEPARTURE FROM IT.—ANAN-
NOOR. — TIIUNDER-STORM AT PASSANANOOR. —DEPARTURE.
-EFFECTS OF A STORM KASHAUR.— KOBI.— PRISONERS ON
THEIR ROUTE TO SIBERIA.-KASBEK.-ROMANTIC ACCOUNT
IN SIR It. K. PORTER’S TRAVELS.-ANONYMOUS CRITIQUE OF
THEM.-AUTHOR S OPINION.-DIVISIONS OF THE MOUNTAIN
TRIBES OF THE CAUCASUS.-WORKS RESPECTING THEM.—
ACCOUNT OF THE OSSETINIANS.-THEIR ROBBERY. — HOSPI¬
TALITY.- REVENGE OF BLOOD FOR BLOOD.-POLYGAMY.-
MARRIAGE. — RELIGION.— OATHS.— DEATH OF THEIR RELA¬
TIONS-THEIR SEPULCHRES. — PORTER’S ACCOUNT OF THE
OSSETINIANS.
In the evening of the 2d of July, we reached
Khartiskarst, and found a wonderful and mosl
KHARTISKARST.—CASTLE OF ANANOOR. J GI
agreeable change in our sensations, compared to
what we had experienced at Tiflis. We passed
the night most delightfully upon our burchds and
boards, in one of two new houses which have lately
been erected for the convenience of travellers, and
a great convenience they proved to us.
On the Sd July we left Khartiskarst at six o’clock
in the morning, and, after a charming ride, reached
Passananoor in the evening. We dined at Ana-
noor, and rejoiced that we had no occasion to enter
its miserable quarantine on our return. The
vignette which adorns the head of the present
chapter, gives an excellent view of the castle of
Ananoor, which includes a church.*
The weather had been fine but warm. Rain
commenced in the evening, and a thunder-storm
followed, and continued all night. The reader
will recollect the position of Passananoor, encircled
by lofty mountains, which, however beautiful in
fine weather, now fearfully increased the horror of
the storm. Thunder rolled, and was reverberated
by the rocks; flashes of lightning followed each
other in rapid succession, and were immediately
succeeded by extremely loud claps, by one of which
our loose shutter fell down and somewhat alarmed
us. The rain, which fell in torrents, soon pe¬
netrated the wooden house in which we slept, and
some of our party were obliged to remove their
162 THUNDER-STORM AT PASSANANOOR.-EFFECTS.
burcha-beds to another part of the room, to avoid
the wet which fell upon them. In the morning,
when daylight dawned upon us, Passananoor ap¬
peared one of the most gloomy abodes we had ever
seen, Our accommodations, too, had been but
very indifferent, our beds consisting of hay and
our burclids, upon the bare floor.
At six o’clock of the 4th, the weather being fair,
and the sky clear, we left our quarters; but we had
not proceeded far when the thunder-storm was
renewed, accompanied by heavy showers; and,
but for our burclids , we should have been very un¬
comfortable : even with them, we were drenched
through, except about the shoulders. The rivulets
and streams we had formerly crossed were now be¬
come torrents, and, carrying down stones and earth
from the mountains, forcing before them the found¬
ations of bridges, and making new channels on all
sides, they completely destroyed the road, which
we in many places could neither trace nor follow.
Since the same destruction regularly takes place
after every violent storm, or heavy shower, the
trouble of keeping the road in tolerable order may
be easily conceived ; but the soldiers at the stations,
besides others in the vicinity, are employed for the
purpose, and of course the expense to the crown is
little or nothing, while the men’s health is improved
by the exercise. Before we reached the bottom of
the hill of Kashaur, the weather became fair, and
the sky clear, so that the snowy summits of the
KASHAtjR.-KOBI. — PRISONERS. 163
Caucasian ridge were seen to great advantage. As
we ascended the steep hill, however, clouds formed
below us in the valley, and were gradually elevated.
They soon enveloped the whole horizon in a very
thick fog, which was followed by rain. We made
a visit to the officer at Kashaur, who was very kind
to us, and at whose house we breakfasted. We
set off with fair weather, for Kazbek. From the
northern extremity of the vale of Passananoor,
or the southern foot of the hill of Kashaur, to
Kazbek, is by far the most mountainous, and the
most difficult part of the passage of the Caucasus.
Having reached Kobi we found it equally as miser¬
able as at our previous visit; but, as we had taken
the precaution of providing some stores, we got a
dinner without being dependent upon its resources.
Soon after leaving Kashaur, we came up with
three prisoners, who were conducted by a military
guard and an officer to Kobi. They were on their
way from Tiflis to Siberia, but the officers could not
inform us of the crimes for which their hard sen¬
tence had been received. His duty, like that of
the rest of the officers, was merely to accompany
them a single station, to lodge them safely, and to
take a certificate from his successor in the charge
that all was in due order. One of them was a Ma¬
hometan Tartar, the other two were Russians.
The feet of all were in irons, and though it was
summer, they were seated on rude low sledges, like
small cars, drawn each by a couple of oxen. On
R1 2
164
KAZBEK.-ROMANTIC ACCOUNT.
arriving at K6bi, the Tartar was conducted, under
a guard, to an adjoining stream, where, after seve¬
ral ablutions, he performed his devotions, ap¬
parently with much earnestness.
With a few showers we reached Kazbek in the
evening. The mountain of the same name was
completely uncovered, the sky clear and serene, so
that it was seen to great advantage.* In passing
through the mountains to-day, the air was not only
fresh but even slightly cold, and formed a wonder¬
ful contrast in temperature to that of Tiflfs.
We lodged in the house of Madame Kazbek, and
slept on feather-beds; an indulgence dearly pur¬
chased with its concomitant annoyances. We did
not see that lady, who rarely shows herself to
strangers, though, by her orders!, the rites of hos¬
pitality arc performed to all respectable travellers.
Sir R. K. Porter gives a very romantic account
of his reception at this place. He tells us, that in
one corner of the quadrangle formed by Ma¬
dame Kazbek’s house, “ are a suite of excellent
rooms, set apart for the reception of travellers of
distinction. I had been honoured in being ushered
into these apartments as soon as I arrived, and I was
greeted by a little boy, about twelve years old, the
son and representative of the late General-in-ehief,
* The reader will find a particular account of this mountain
in Iieise in die Krym und den Kaukasns von Moris von Engel-
hardt und Friedcrich Parrot, M. D. part i. p. 192.
f Vide p. 4*75. Vol. I.
CRITIQUE OF PORTER’S TRAVELS. 165
who performed the hospitable duties of the house
with the grace of one twice his age. His mother,
the mistress of the mansion, did not make her ap¬
pearance, being unwell; but she had ordered re¬
freshment to be spread for me, which consisted of
dried fish, some small pieces of roast meat, excel¬
lent bread and butter, and, after all, some as excel¬
lent coffee. Two of my fellow-travellers partook
of this repast, and were as amused as myself with
the discordant aspects and devoirs of our attend¬
ants, their assassin-like looks and garb giving them
more the appearance of banditti than that of serving
men, for they were all armed, and had their breast-
pouches filled with cartridges. Indeed it could not
but cross me, once or twice, that they might event¬
ually prove as savage as they seemed. For it was
not improbable that these very people, who were
now so obsequiously providing for my wants,
might, on our advance to Kobi, if I gave them op¬
portunity, waylay and rob, if not absolutely mur¬
der me : a mode of farewell, to recently welcomed
guests, not very uncommon amongst these rapacious
mountaineers. In their opinions, within the gate,
and without it, makes all the difference in the rites
of hospitality, and, therefore, in the bonds of faith
between host and traveller.” * A very ingenious
but severe critic has remarked, that Sir R. K. Porter,
“ in his attempts to work up many passages to some-
* Travels in Persia and Georgia, vol. i. p, 76.
M 3
1GG AUTHOIt’s OPINION.-MOUNTAIN TRIBES.
thing much finer than was at all necessary or fitting,
has given not only very highly coloured, but even
very inaccurate representations of the objects
which he describes, and has cast over his whole pro¬
duction an air of fiction—of romance—from which
there is not enough of solid truth to redeem it.” *
It must be admitted, that there is too much truth in
these observations ; but, at the same time, in all
candour, it ought to be allowed, that the Knight's
travels contain a good deal of information, and
that the plates, which are no doubt the offspring of
much labour and assiduity, greatly enhance their
value.
Before quitting the Caucasus, I shall embrace
the opportunity of introducing a few general observ¬
ations, which may be of use to future travellers.
Different divisions of the mountain tribes of the
Caucasus have been proposed so as to assist in their
examination and history. Guldenstaedt, one of
the earliest learned travellers, who devoted much
attention to this subject, has divided them into
classes, as Georgians, Basianas, Abasians, Circas¬
sians (or rather Tcherkess), Ossetinians, Ivisti, &c.
and these classes into tribes, t Pallas, wishing to
improve upon his predecessor, adopts a different
division t, and adds numerous observations with
* Blackwood’s Magazine, No. XCI. p. 140.
t Reise durch Russland und im Caucasischen Geburge, vol. i.
pp. 459-502.
% Pallas’s Second Journey, &c.
WORKS ON TUB MOUNTAIN TRIBES. 167
respect to the customs and manners of the tribes,
on which points Guldcnstaedt is deficient in inform¬
ation. His statements, however, chiefly respect
the inhabitants of the north side of the Caucasus.
A gentleman, well acquainted with the tribes of
the Caucasus, is of opinion that they might be
arranged under the six following classes, which
include many species and varieties, viz. the Circas¬
sians — the Lesghees — the Ossetinians —the
Kisti — the Georgians — and the Tartars.
It is matter of regret, that notwithstanding the
labours of a number of travellers, our ignorance of
the inhabitants of the Caucasus should still be so
great. Tooke’s works give but a very imperfect
account of these people. But there are two works,
in the English language, which contain a good
deal of information with respect to them ; neither
of which is very well known. One of them is
“ Ellis’s Memoirs of the Natives of the Caucasus
principally compiled from the work of Guldenstaedt,
already referred to; and the second is entitled,
“ A General Historical and. Topographical De¬
scription of Mount Caucasus translated from the
works of Dr. lteineggs, and Marshal Bicberstein.*
The last work, which I first saw in Georgia, con¬
tains a great many interesting details, but unfortu¬
nately they arc thrown together in great confusion.
The most important work which has issued from
* London. 2 vols. Printed for C. Taylor, Ilatton Garden,
168 WORKS ON TIIE MOUNTAIN TRIBES.
the press, of late years, with respect to the moun¬
tain tribes in question, and especially with respect
to their languages and dialects, is unquestionably the
“ Voyage an Caucase et en Georgie,” of Klaproth.
But it is so abundant in long discussions about lan¬
guages, dialects, derivations of words, &c. as to be
little liked by the general reader. In the “ Letters
from the Caucasus, 8qc” and in Sir R. K. Porter’s Tra¬
vels, we find a number of very interesting observ¬
ations, many of them, however, taken from Pallas.
In the “ Great Geographical Dictionary of Rus¬
sia,” or Vsevolojskii’s “ Dictionnaire Historique-
Gcographiqae, ’’ scarcely any information is to be
found; and the Russian geographer, Yablovskii,
seems to know but little about the Caucasus or
Georgia.
Though all the works referred to, as well as
others, of which I have formerly spoken, be defi¬
cient in any thing like a complete account of the
mountaineers, yet they pave the way for the inves¬
tigations of some learned individual, who, after
giving up a few years to travelling in the Cauca¬
sus, and the study of languages and dialects, and
the acquisition of accurate knowledge, might pro¬
duce a most interesting work, replete with novelty.
To such an individual the vocabularies of the
languages used by the Caucasians, in Gulden-
staedt’s, Pallas’s, and Klaproth’s Travels, will be
found of the greatest utility.
The following account of the Ossi, Ossetes, or
ACCOUNT OF THE OSSETINIANS.
1(39
Gssetinians, whose territories we again reached at
Kazbek, is chiefly taken from Klaproth, and is by
far the best I have met with. It is partly composed
from his own observations, and is partly a compil¬
ation.
According to Pallas, the Ossetinians, who call
themselves Ir, and Irones, from the name of their
country, Ironistan, form a peculiar tribe, who alto¬
gether dwell among the high mountains, and whose
“frontiers stretch, on the west, toUrup ; ontheeast,
to the Terek, on the northern part of the Caucasian
mountains; on the west to Rion or the Phasis of
the ancients, and, on the east to the Aragua, in
their southern part.”
Klaproth thinks that the Ossetinians are one of
the most remarkable tribes of Mount Caucasus,
who differ from all the rest, both in their language
and their physiognomy, though they resemble them
in their rude manners and their inclination to rob¬
bery. He treats at great length of the origin of
this people, whom he regards “ comme etant les
Sarmates-Medes des anciens, et comme les Alanes et
les Asses du moyen age”
The Ossetinians were formerly governed by their
princes, and inhabited the plains of the Great and
the Little Kabarda, and part of the borders of the
Caucasus; and, after many changes and commo¬
tions in that neighbourhood, at length took up
their present residence. For an account of their
history, through a long succession of years, the
170
ACCOUNT OF THE OSSETINIANS.
reader may be referred to Klaproth’s work. I
only mean to allude to their present condition.
The Ossetinians are well made, strong, and ge¬
nerally of a middle stature. They are principally
distinguished by their physiognomy, which greatly
resembles that of Europeans. Blue eyes, and fair
or red hair, are very common among them. Few
of them have the hair altogether black. They are
a healthy and prolific race. The women are gene¬
rally little, and not pretty. Their faces are round,
and their noses flat. They are robust; and labour
and frugal nourishment render them still stronger.
Those of the territory of Tagaour form an excep¬
tion to this description, by their beauty and their
slender figure. They resemble the Georgians, with
whom their ancestors may have intermarried.
The Ossetinians dress and arm themselves after
the manner of the Circassians, and rapine is their
favourite occupation, as well as of the greater part
of their neighbours. Young people prove their
dexterity by theft, and robbery establishes their
reputation: when they have committed homicide,
they acquire the celebrity of a hero. They vaunt
of their roguery, and they boast of assassination,
or of having vengeance satiated by blood.
All the Ossetinians do not pillage in the same
manner. In the valley of the T6rek, and in
general upon the road from Mozdok to Tifhs,
they do not make regular attacks, but twenty or
thirty conceal themselves in the woods, or behind
ROBBERY OF THE OSSETINIANS.
171
the rocks, where they wait for travellers. Each
of them chooses his man, at whom he fires.
Having good fusils, they rarely miss. When they
have killed the greatest part of an escort, they
seize the effects, and divide the spoil. The
division, however, is not always made without
disputes, or without effusion of blood.
When the Ossetinians set out to pillage the
villages of the Circassians, they adopt the following
method, so as to carry off’ horses, horned cattle,
and sometimes even the inhabitants. From a
dozen to twenty form a band, and on a wet and
stormy night, they go to these villages on foot,
and while part of them keep guard before the
houses, and present their guns at the doors, so as
to prevent the inhabitants from coming out, the
rest empty the stables and cow-houses, and steal
every thing they can lay hold of. This being
done, they return with their booty with all possible
speed. The Ossetinians, who dwell between the
Terek and the Fiag, reach the habitations of the
Balkars and the Tcheghems, by passes in the snow
mountains, only known to themselves, and carry
off all that comes in their way, and especially
young girls. They keep their booty, or sell it to
their neighbours, according to circumstances.
When the Ossetinians rest their guns upon
something, or when they are seated on the earth,
they fire well, and never miss their aim ; but they
are very slow in loading. When on horseback
l?~ HOSPITALITY OF THE OSSETINIANS.
they are obliged to alight, either to charge or to
force home the ball. When they fire, they take
care to choose some hiding-place, and do not
waste their ammunition until they think themselves
sure of their end. Their mode of defence is sin¬
gular. They place themselves at some steps from
one another, and each defends himself. When a
retreat is resolved upon, the most advanced fires
his gun, and withdraws behind the rest to load it
again, until they reach some mountain-path which
is well known to them, and then they make their
escape.
Although the Ossetinians be such determined
robbers, they, as well as all the other tribes of the
Caucasus, have the strictest regard to the laws of
hospitality, (called Koondk, as formerly mentioned,)
and scarcely an example has occurred in which
they have been violated. If any one is guilty of
such a crime, the whole village assembles to judge
him. He is almost always condemned to be pre¬
cipitated, his hands and feet being bound together,
from the top of a rock into a river.
A stranger, who arrives at an Gssetinian village,
is sure of being well treated during his stay; all
his wants are attended to ; he is treated in every
way as a relative. But if he leave the village
without an escort, lie runs the risk of being pillaged
by the same men whose hospitality he had shared
the preceding evening. This people have a say¬
ing that, “ He whom we meet in the way is given
THEIR REVENGE OF BLOOD FOR BI.OOD. 178
us by God !” If the prisoner has the means, lie
may purchase his liberty by a sum of money, or
by an equivalent in arms or cattle. The bargain
concluded, he is under the safeguard of their hos¬
pitality ; and the village in which he had been
taken, is always obliged to defend him.
The Ossetinians do not treat their prisoners
badly, except when they endeavour to escape.
When a stranger arrives at the house of an
Ossetinian, the landlord hastens to kill a sheep, to
have it roasted, and served up whole. While he
eats, the master of the house generally remains
near the door with a stick in his hand, and does
not partake of the repast. He would sacrifice all
to defend his guest, and to avenge any outrage
upon him; he would have no repose till he had
killed his murderer. That vengeance which de¬
mands blood for blood, and which, generally,
prevails throughout the Caucasus, is carried to the
highest degree by the Ossetinians. When an
Ossetinian has avenged the death of one of his
parents, or of his guest, he betakes himself to his
grave, and announces with a loud voice that he has
killed the murderer, and avenged the death of the
deceased. This kind of vengeance is hereditary;
it even descends from the grandfather to the grand¬
son, and is often the cause of hostilities among
the villages. Although it could not be entirely
abolished, this custom is sometimes suspended for
a time by presents made to the offended party.
1 7^ POLYGAMY. —- MARRIAGES. RELIGION.
The murderer takes refuge in a fortified tower,
where, along with some of his associates, he de¬
fends himself against the attacks of the relatives of
him who has been killed. From thence he sends
to the Elder of the village, who assembles the
relations, and persuades them to conclude a treaty
of peace with their adversaries. By it the mur¬
derer is bound to give a certain number of sheep
or oxen to those offended; and they are bound,
on oath, to leave him tranquil during the time
of the treaty. This treaty is sometimes renewed
by mutual consent.
Few examples of polygamy are met with among
the Ossetinians. The rich, whether Mahometans
or Christians, are the only individuals who have
two, and sometimes three, wives.
When an Ossetinian wishes to marry, he sends
one of his relations or friends to the father, to ask
his daughter of him. If the parties agree about
the dowry, which generally consists of fire-arms,
sabres, poniards, cattle, &c., a feast of three days’
duration follows.
The Ossetinians are very strict respecting vir¬
ginity, but after marriage it is reckoned honourable
for a woman to have a number of lovers.
The religion of the Ossetinians is the same as
among all the mountain tribes. It is a singular
melange of Mahometanism, Christianity, and an¬
cient superstitions. It is evident that the Osse-
OATHS. — DEATH OF RELATIONS.
175
tinians give considerable attention, even yet, to
some of the festivities of the Christian church.
The oaths of the Ossetinians are very singular.
When they are accused of theft, they generally
swear by a dog, a cat, or the dead. The accused
with a dog, runs throughout the village, and cries
with a loud voice, “ I am about to kill this dog.”
After which, the real thief generally avows his
fault, because it is believed, that to participate in
the death of a dog would lead to misfortune. It
often happens, that he who takes an oath cuts off
the head of a cat, or hangs a dog, saying that the
animal will avenge itself of the perjured person,
by scratching, biting, and tormenting the guilty.
Whoever suspects one of his neighbours to have
stolen, conducts him to the place where his re¬
lations are interred ; and the accused placing him¬
self near the tomb of his father, mother, or brother,
cries out, “ If I have stolen, I wish to serve as a
horse in the other world to my father, my mother,
or my brother; but if I am innocent, may that
punishment fall upon the guilty.”
When an Ossetinian dies, all his relations as¬
semble. The men uncover the head and the hips,
and lash themselves till blood appears, and the wo¬
men scratch their faces, bite their arms, and cry
in a dreadful manner. The wife of the deceased
ought to be more violent than the rest, and to
abstain for a year from all kinds of meat and other
things prohibited during the fast. Generally, her
17fi SEPULCHRES.-SIR R. K. PORTER’S ACCOUNT.
husband’s brother espouses her, even when he has
another wife, with the view of preserving the pro¬
perty in the family.
Every family has its own sepulchre, which,
among some tribes, is an immense square building,
with a very narrow entrance. Two men enter it,
drawing after them the body of the deceased,
stretched upon planks. When it is entirely con¬
sumed, they mix the bones with those of others
of the family.*
Many of the above observations are as applicable
to a number of the other tribes of the Caucasus,
as to the Ossetinians. Indeed, I strongly suspect,
that no author has ever had the requisite know¬
ledge to enable him completely to distinguish the
peculiar customs and manners even of the prin¬
cipal races.
With a few remarks from Sir R. K. Porter res¬
pecting the Ossetinians, which differ but little
from the foregoing statements, I shall conclude
this chapter.
“ The natives in this neighbourhood, (Kazbek,)
are of the Ossi tribe ; a people of mixed persua¬
sions, Christian, Mahometan, and pagan. The
village of Kasbeck, as well as a few others in its
immediate vicinity, is inhabited by Christians pro¬
fessing the same faith and observances as the
Georgians.” — “ It is said, that the present race
* Vide Voyage au Caucase et en Georgie, vol. ii. p. 223.
porter’s account of TIIE OSSETINIANS. 177
of Ossi Christians are amongst the most civilised
of the mountaineers. This may be ; but, in spite
of their better faith, and better laws, they are oc¬
casionally not less expert at robbery and murder,
than their brethren of Mahometan and heathen
creeds. The men are strong, active, and well
made, with dark complexions, and a peculiarly
lowering look, an aspect more accordant with the
latter part of their character, than that of their
pretensions to piety, and its consequent blameless
life.
“ The Ossetinians are habited in the manner of
the Circassians, and never appear without the com¬
mon weapon of the country, a dagger in their
girdle. Its form is broad near the handle, tapering
down to a long point, the whole being about
eighteen inches in length. In short, there is a
general appearance of offence and defence in every
thing we see, which must always be the case as
we retrograde nearer to man in a state of nature,
where the law of force has not yet given place to
the law of reason : every body is armed, every
house is a sort of little fortress.”
vol. ri.
N
CHAP, XVIII.
PORTRESSES OF THE CAUCASUS. — WARLIKE APPEARANCE OF
THE INHABITANTS. — DARIEL.— FALL OF ROCK INTO THE
TEREK. — NEW ROAD. MOUNTAIN PASS.— LARS.— VLADI¬
KAVKAZ. — CARE OF TRAVELLERS. — COLONEL SKVARTSOF.
—GENERAL DEL POZZO.—DEPARTURE.—ELIZABETH REDOUBT.
—ADVENTURE. — CONSTANTINE REDOUBT.- FERRY OF THE
TEREK.—MOZDOK-ACCIDENT.-GEORGIE VSK.—BESHPAGHIR.
—STAVROPOLE. —QUARANTINE OF SREDNOYE-YEGORLITSKO-
YE.- ITS DESCRIPTION. - RELEASE. -HONOURABLE AND
DISHONOURABLE CONDUCT.—DEPARTURE_NIJNI-YECORLITS-
KOYE. —THE DON-AKSAI.-NOVO-TCHERKASK.— VISIT TO
GENERAL ILOVAISKII.-ROAD TO STARO-TCHERKASK.—HIS¬
TORY AND SITUATION OF THIS TOWN-ITS FORMER POPU¬
LATION.-ABSURDLY COMPARED TO VENICE. -ITS PRESENT
STATE.— ITS CATHEDRAL AND INUNDATIONS.— ITS DECLINE.
— RETURN TO n6vO-TCIIERKASK. - DINNER AT GENERAL
FORTRESSES OF THE CAUCASUS.
179
ILOVAISKIES.-COLONEL NOZIKOMOF.-THE UPliAVLENIYE .—
FOUNDATION OF NOVO-TCIIERKASK- PLATOF’s PLAN. - SI¬
TUATION OF NOVO-TCHERKASIv INJUDICIOUS.-DESCRIPTION
OF NOVO-TCIIERKASK.-ITS POPULATION.- PUBLIC BUILD¬
INGS. — GENERAL REMARKS RESPECTING THE KOZAKS. —
THEIR MILITARY CHARACTER.
I have frequently had occasion to allude to the
general warlike appearance which prevails in the
Caucasus. There, indeed, almost every village
may be said to be fortified, having a court with
high stone walls, from which arises a tower, gene¬
rally of a tapering square form. To these forts
the inhabitants were wont to betake themselves
for refuge, in former times, when divisions and
warfare were more frequent among the mountain
tribes than at present. They still remain as the
safeguards of the more accessible parts of the
Caucasus, and some of them are kept in good re¬
pair. In case of an attack by a regular army,
they would only be of momentary use, and the
natives, no doubt, would then desert them, and
trust alone for safety, to the fastnesses of the sur¬
rounding mountains. In order that the reader
may have an accurate idea of these fortified vil¬
lages, I have caused a view of one of them to be
placed at the commencement of the present chap¬
ter. It was taken near Kazbek, and well illus¬
trates the nature of the alpine scenery by which
that place is surrounded.
Another circumstance is very striking to the
n 2
180 WARLIKE APPEARANCE OF MOUNTAINEERS.
traveller. Among the mountains of the Caucasus,
as well as in the adjoining plains on the north,
and in Georgia on the south, every individual is
armed when he quits his habitation. Even boys
arc furnished with daggers and swords, the use of
which they are taught, at a very early age, so as
to be prepared for offence or defence. Pistols and
muskets are carried, at all times, by every man in
the regions alluded to. They are even the ac¬
companiments of those at the plough, in the farm¬
yard, or employed in other rural or domestic af¬
fairs. Almost every traveller we meet, whatever
be his rank, description, or country, is accoutred
as if he were in active service, or as if the country
was in a state of warfare. These appearances
produce very unsocial feelings, anil cause the
stranger to such customs to look upon every indi¬
vidual he sees with suspicion, and even with jea¬
lousy. Here, of course, every man must be on
the alert, and look to his own safety. I shall
never forget the strange impression made upon
my mind, on meeting a mohla — clothed in scarlet
and with a white turban upon his head, — and his
servant, with daggers in their girdles, and guns
slung across their backs in one of the defiles of
Georgia. But I must return to our journey.
The morning of the 5th July was very fresh,
and in the night we had felt cold. We left Kazbek,
and with a few trifling showers reached the fortress
of Dariel. The commandant, to whom we had
I)ARIEL.-FALL OF ROCK.-NEW ROAD. 181
despatched a letter from General Wilyeminof the
preceding evening, though it had been received
only about an hour before our arrival, had made
preparations for us. He gave us twenty workmen,
and ten soldiers as a guard. After proceeding
about a verst, we were obliged to dismount and
walk. We crossed a temporary bridge from the
west to the east bank of the Terek, and the work¬
men transported our luggage, for the horses could
proceed no farther. We now approached the ava¬
lanche, or rather land-slip formerly alluded to •,
an enormous quantity of fragments of rock, large
and small, which had fallen from the adjoining
mountain on the 23d June, and blocked up the
Terek so that it rose many feet above its usual
level. By this accident the bed of the river was
permanently raised to a considerable height, and
the arched way blasted and cut out of the solid
rock on its west side, and which is said to have
cost ten years’ labour, was completely under
water, t Under the directions of a Russian major
and engineer, who gave us every information, a
new road was making on the east bank of the
Terek, it being calculated that the trouble of doing
so would be infinitely less than to clear away the
rocks and stones, so as to restore the river to its
former level. Nearly 300 men were daily em¬
ployed for this purpose, which was soon completed,
N 3
* Vide Vol. I. I>. 503.
+ Ibid, p. 470.
182 MOUNTAIN PASS.-LARS.-VLADIKAVKAZ.
and the temporary bridge by which we regained
the west bank of‘ the Terek, as well as the other
above mentioned, I understand has been since
replaced by a permanent bridge.
On the west side of the river there is, however,
another pass to Dariel, but it is extremely difficult
and no less than three or four hours are said to be
requisite for advancing between two and three
versts. The ascent is gained in some places by
climbing, and in others by the assistance of ropes.
Horses occasionally pass by this road, but the
experiment is not made without danger. A few
days before our arrival, one was killed on the
spot, in consequence of having tumbled down
the precipice.
In consequence of previous orders, we were met
by horses from Lars, which place we soon reached,
accompanied by ten soldiers and two Kozaks.
After our departure from Lars, leaving the soldiers
with our servant and the luggage, we rode on with
the two Kozaks, against the rules of travelling in
these districts. We were stopped at Maksimkina,
and the officer stationed there said he would report
us for going without a convoy; but we got offi
and reached Vladikavkaz in safety.
At first we could not conceive the extreme ear¬
nestness of the officers that we should be so well
guarded; but we afterwards learned, that they are
responsible for all travellers on their portion of the
way assigned to conduct them, and that for care-
CARE OF TRAVELLERS.—COLONEL SKVARTs6f. 18o
lessness in the execution of this duty, or want of
conformity to the laws, some of them had been
reduced to the ranks.
Having no wish to repeat a three days’ march
from Vladikavkaz to Mozdok, we made arrange¬
ments with Colonel Skvartsof, and a particular
escort was ordered for us. That gentleman was
busily occupied in carrying into execution some
of the plans of General Yermolof, to reduce
the neighbouring mountain tribes to greater tran¬
quillity; and his severe measures were said to have
been attended with considerable success. The
Colonel has been stationed many years in the re¬
gions of the Caucasus, and must have a consider¬
able knowledge of the duties which his important
station requires, though not equal to that of his
predecessor, General del Pozzo, who resided for
a long time at Vladikavkaz, and whose history is
extremely interesting. Though an Italian by birth,
he passed the greatest part of his manhood in the
Russian service. To his knowledge and activity,
Russia is chiefly indebted for the security with
which she now holds the key of this part of Asia.
He understood the country well, and the people
who inhabit it. He selected the best stations for
a commanding line of military posts. This inti¬
mate acquaintance with the different tribes was
of great use. Having been in secret communica¬
tion with certain natives in each district, he was
enabled, by their information, to frustrate schemes
N 4
184 GENERAL DEL POZZO. — DEPARTURE.
of intended warfare or depredation ; and often to
come at the knowledge of the existence and places
of captivity of unfortunate travellers, who had be¬
come their prisoners. These latter advantages were
dearly purchased by the General, who himself was
taken by the Tchitchentsi, and remained nearly a
year their prisoner *; during which period he en¬
dured many hardships.
On the 6th of July, at four o’clock in the
morning, the infantry appeared, and were des¬
patched before us. We took possession of our
carriages again, and, escorted by a party of Kozaks,
we proceeded at a quick trot, and soon came up
with the infantry. A gun, which had been sent
for from the next station, met* us, and joined
the convoy. We proceeded about ten versts
at a slow pace, when we left the infantry and
cannon to come up at leisure, while we continued
our route more rapidly with a Kozak guard, and
reached the redoubt of Elizabeth. There we dined
in the same good rooms which we had formerly
occupied. A convoy billet was presented for our
signature, stating that we had reached the station
in safety, with a guard of a staff-captain, two
under officers, one drummer, forty soldiers, fif¬
teen Kozaks, and a cannon. The truth is, that
we had not above half that number of infantry,
* Vide Sir II. K. Porter’s Travels, and Letters from the
Caucasus.
ADVENTURE.-ELIZABETH REDOUBT. 185
und only about ten Kozaks; but sucli is the
universal practice in Russia. Our guard were
highly pleased at receiving a ten-rouble note to be
divided among them as drink-money.
We sent off the new convoy from Elizabeth
redoubt, and followed it after a short repose. At
the foot of the hills, while we were walking with
the officer at the head of the guard, one of the
Kozaks came galloping up, and with a serious face
informed us, that there were a number of horse¬
men upon the hills, and that he suspected they
were enemies. The officer mounted his horse;
the convoy was ordered to halt; and a general
bustle ensued. We betook ourselves to our car¬
riages, to look for such arms as we had, though far
from desirous of an opportunity to make use of
them. Some of the Kozaks were despatched to
make a reconnoissance; a signal was made—by
riding from right to left in a semicircle,—which
being answered, it was found that the horsemen
were Kozaks returning to Elizabeth redoubt.*
We never quitted the convoy to-day, because, in
ascending the range of hills spoken of on our
advance t, the carriages sometimes required the
assistance of the soldiers. As we reached its sum-
* Sir R. K. Porter alludes to a similar adventure. It may
be questioned whether there may not be some plan in these
manoeuvres, so as to augment the fear of passing through the
Caucasus.
f Vide Vol. I. p. 461.
186
CONSTANTINE REDOUBT.
mit, a thunder-storm took place, with heavy rain,
and continued till we arrived at the fort of Con¬
stantine in the evening, where we enjoyed a good
supper in our wretched quarters, into which nu¬
merous streams poured on all sides. The officer
who had been with us, was extremely civil, and
showed a considerable degree of intelligence. He
was particularly anxious to have a map of the
Caucasus and Georgia, which we could not give
him, as our own were still necessary. It might
excite surprise that each of the stations was not
supplied with such a map, for the sake of the
officers.
On the 7th of July, a similar convoy having
preceded us, we left Constantine fort, at half past
five in the morning; and, having come up with
them, we continued together till we had crossed
the mountains; when the young officer reluctantly
consented to allow us to proceed at a trot to
Alexander’s redoubt, which we did not enter, but
proceeded directly to the Terek. One of the
carriages having crossed the ferry, the other was
detained two hours, in consequence of the men
not having secured the rope when we reached the
opposite side. The ferry-boat and rowers, with
our servant and carriage, were carried away by
the rapidity of the Terek. We ourselves had
landed, and it was not with pleasant emotions we
beheld them sailing between Europe and Asia.
After descending to some distance, by the efforts
FERRY OF THE TEREK. — MOZDOK. 187
of the rowers, they reached a sand-bank, and we
procured assistance and oxen, which dragged up
the ferry-boat to the landing-place.
The ferry of the Tthek is the most difficult and
dangerous I ever saw; owing to the depth, the
breadth, and the rapidity of the river. But I presume
it is now better regulated, as we saw an immense
cable which was to be placed across the river,
by which the ferry-boats were to be directed in
future, and similar accidents would thus be pre¬
vented. The horses being put to, we passed the
quarantine, having been informed that it was un¬
necessary to remain there, as it was matter of
notoriety that there was no pestilential disease in
the south. We got to Mozdok, and employed the
remainder of the day in making arrangements
and laying in stores of provisions. We also re¬
ceived back our podorojnes, which we had left
with Colonel Kotiref, and an order for a Kozak
guard.
On the 8th of July we left Mozdok, at four
o’clock in the morning. As it had rained a great
deal in the night, the road was very heavy, and we
retraced our route much less speedily than we had
advanced. During the last station, one of our
horses dropped down, and the coachman remained
behind to take care of it; but our servant took
his place, and we reached the Podkuma. We
remarked that this broad river was very large in
consequence of the rain; and that oxen, yoked
188 ACCIDENT.-GEORGIEVSK.—RESHPAGH1R.
in telegas and led by a man on horseback, swam
through it. The postilion, who pretended he
knew the fordable part of the Podkuma and its
sand-banks, proceeded but a short way, when the
carriage stuck fast in a deep hole, and leaned
so much to one side as to threaten an overturn.
During the efforts made to extricate us, the pole
was broken, and also the harness. Two Kozaks
came to our assistance, and we escaped by the
window and got upon horseback. About fifteen
soldiers waded to us, and two fresh horses were
brought, by whose combined assistance the carnage
reached the other side, when we drove to our old
lodgings in Georgievsk.
On the 10th of July we left Georgievsk, at five
o’clock in the morning. This was one of the
most disagreeable days’ journeys which we had.
A gentleman’s carriages, which required twelve
horses, preceded us, so that at a number of the
stations there were none left for us. At Alex¬
andria we were detained two hours and obliged to
hire. At Alexandrovsk we paid double fare, to
get a-head of the gentleman alluded to; and on
reaching Beshpaghir, at half past nine in the even¬
ing, we were compelled to make up our minds to
sleeping in the carriage, in consequence of the
deceit and roguery of the post-master; who, it
was evident, would not give us horses before the
morning.
The inhabitants in this part of the government
STAVROPOLE. —QUARANTINE. 1SJJ
of the Caucasus, are mostly Russians from the go¬
vernments of Koursk and Kharkof. *
On the 11th of July we breakfasted at Stavro-
pole, whence we were to travel over a route new
to us, toward Moscow. The road, during the first
station from this town to Moskovskaya, is a good
deal up and down hill, but after that village, it
runs over nearly a dead flat, or immense step , all
the way to Srednoye-Yegorlftskoye. The eye
wanders over unbounded pastures, among which,
hay-stacks, and corn-fields, indicate the neighbour¬
hood of a village. Upon the whole it is an unin¬
teresting and naked country. The soil is good,
however, and, were there hands to cultivate it,
would yield fine crops.
Donskoi, and Bezopasnoi, are very large vil¬
lages, and some of the other stations are of con¬
siderable size. Their excellent and gaudy churches
cheer the heart amid the bleakness of nature.
Having travelled all night, we reached the
quarantine of Srednoye-Yegorlftskoye, about eight
o’clock in the morning of the 12th of July.
In consequence of not having taken a certi¬
ficate at the quarantine of Mozdok, or from tiie
Gorodnitchii of Gcorgievsk or Stavropole, al¬
though we had a letter from the police-master of
Georgievsk, contrary to our expectations, we were
* Lettres i'crites dans un Voyage de Moscow au Caucase,
by Kimmel, p. 38.
190 QUARANTINE OF SREDNOYE-YEGORL1TSKOVE,
obliged to enter the quarantine. We proposed to
send a courier to the Ataman of the Don Kozaks,
in whose territories we now were, and for whom
we had letters; but the officers of the establish¬
ment thought it would be a more speedy way of
arranging our affair, to send to the Gorodnitchii of
Stavropole. A Kozak was accordingly despatched,
and we had nearly three days to spend at this
miserable place; a title it has received from all
travellers, and which it well merits, notwithstand¬
ing the improvements made within the last few
years.
The situation of this quarantine is the worst
imaginable, in the middle of a perfect marsh,
especially in wet weather, as was the case during
our residence. It is overgrown with long rank
grass, and a profusion of weeds. The rivulet,
Yegorlik, is often stagnant, and owes its name to
the disagreeable odour which it emits. * It seems
the most likely place possible for catching an
intermittent fever, and the attention of the Rus¬
sian government ought to be called to its real
demerits. The water there is so bad as to produce
disease, and the physician attached to the estab¬
lishment assured us, that he sent twenty versts for
all that used in his family.
The quarantine occupies some acres of land,
* The river may well he called the Vanutchoi Yegorlik, or
Stinking Yegorlik.
ITS DESCRIPTION.
191
and is surrounded by an earthen rampart and a
deep ditch. A few years ago, a dozen new wooden
houses, all one story in height, were erected, each
of which is divided into two dwellings. Each
dwelling contains two rooms, with a stove between
them, besides an antechamber, with a large oven,
which may serve as a kitchen. Each of these
houses is surrounded by a ditch, and has a kind of
garden, or rather waste ground, around it. The
storehouses, fumigation-rooms, &c., occupy another
part of the enclosure; and the houses of the chief,
the commissary, the physician, &c., are at some
distance. From the merchant who supplies the
quarantine we received good articles, though
rather at a high price, as was to be expected.
In reading, writing, and conversation, we had
here sufficient occupation; and at the same time
a short interval of leisure from our fatiguing
journey.
Having obtained permission, I sallied one day
from the quarantine, and reached the adjoining
church and village, neither of which are of great
importance. The wooden church is founded upon
a green hill, like a tumulus rising out of the plain,
and commands an extensive view.
On the 14 th of July, our messenger arrived in
the afternoon with a certificate, said to be from
the GorodnUchii of Stavropole, that no pestilential
disease prevailed in the countries through which
we had travelled.
1<J2 RELEASE.-DIFFERENCE OF CONDUCT.
Besides the inconvenience and loss of time
caused by nearly three days’ residence at the qua¬
rantine, tiie expenses of the messenger amounted
to seventy-five roubles. This may prove a useful
hint to future travellers to furnish themselves with
certificates in coming from the southern provinces
of Asia, either at Mozdok, Georgievsk, or Stav-
ropole.
The news of liberty instantly spread cheerful¬
ness through the party; all hands were at work
in packing up, and horses were easily procured.
We settled our accounts, and found the commis¬
sary as unwilling to accept of a present for his
obliging conduct, as lie had been determined in
refusing the bribe we offered at our arrival, to
induce him to allow us to proceed on our route.
I rejoice in making such an assertion. Another
individual, however, was less ceremonious. As he
had boasted his honourable conduct and inca¬
pability of corruption, we did not wish to offend
him by a present. Finding himself thus treated,
he asked me to speak with him ; and, under a very
poor pretence, prayed for assistance, which was
immediately granted him.
At eight o’clock in the evening of the 14th of
July, we crossed the Yegorlik, by a small bridge,
and were fairly cn route. The road was heavy,
the horses bad, the night dark, and the coach¬
man a stupid fellow. We soon lost our way in
the fields, and the carriage stuck fast in a hole.
NIJNI-YEGORUTSKOYK.—THE DON.-AKSAI. 1 93
We were obliged to alight, and assist in extricating
it, and then, by groping about, to search for the
road. Having at length succeeded, we walked to
the station called Nijni-Yegorlltskoye. A courier,
with four telegas, had just arrived there, who was
on his way to Tiflls with stores and property foi
General Yermolof. He required twelve horses •
and, of course, was served before us: so that we
were detained some time. We travelled all night,
and in the evening of the 15th, reached Novo-
Tcherkask.
The road from Srednoye-YegorKtskoye to the
banks of the Don is mostly step, with considerable
undulations of surface however, and for the most
part fruitful. Many of the villages on the post¬
road, and in the neighbouring country, are small.
Tliey are called stanitsas, and are inhabited by
the Don Kozaks.
The banks of the Don afforded us some fine
views ; and being covered by numerous villas and
country houses, gardens and plantations, formed
a delightful contrast to the desolate country and
monotonous plains through which we had passed
from Beshpaghir. We crossed the Don (nearly a
quarter of a mile in breadth,) by means of an
excellent floating bridge, and soon reached Aksai.
Aksai, though it bears the name of a Kozak
stanitsa, or village, in reality is more worthy the
name of town than many places which have such
an appellation in Russia. It is situated upon the
o
VOL. II.
HH novo-tcherkask.—general ilovaiskii.
declivity of a hill; and in the spring, when the
Don overflows its banks and is ten miles in
breadth, it must have a magnificent appearance at
a distance. Its streets are extremely irregular,
but it contains a number of excellent houses, many
of them built of brick, after the style of those in
the chief towns in the empire.
In Aksai are a number of merchants, who carry
on an active commerce upon the Don, particularly
in dried fish, which are disposed of at an exceed¬
ingly low price, and are afterwards transported
by that river to different parts of the empire. The
Don, as is well known, is most prolific in fish of
various kinds, which are seldom found any where
in such perfection.*
The road from Aksai to Novo-Tcherkask, is
through a hilly country, in a great measure desti¬
tute of wood, but abounding in pastures and corn¬
fields, with a few scattered villages. The Don
forms, as it were, the line of demarcation between
the northern hilly country, and the southern steps.
We took up our quarters for the night at Novo-
Tcherkask.
On the 16th July we breakfasted at a very early
hour, and then proceeded to the house of the Ata¬
man of the Don Kozaks, General Ilovaiskii. t
* Vide Clarke’s Travels, p.274. where a number of them
arc enumerated.
-J- General Ilovaiskii, as well as his five brothers, and other
members of the family, were extremely active during the French
ROAD TO STARO-TCIIERKASK.
195
After the death of Platof, his Excellency A. K.
Denisof was nominated his successor ; but lie held
the situation only for a very short time, and was
succeeded by the present Ataman.
General Ilovaiskii’s house stands on the banks
of the Touslof, in what may be reckoned a pretty
situation in a country nearly destitute of wood and
romantic scenery. It is a building of a very re¬
spectable appearance. On entering the hall we
found a number of officers, and of the functionaries
of the town, including the police-master, assembled
for the purpose of complimenting their chief, and
of arranging their affairs. One of the Ataman’s
adjutants took our letters of introduction, and an¬
nounced our arrival to the Ataman, who gave us a
most polite reception. After a good deal of con¬
versation, we rose with a view to depart, perceiving
that he was busily employed. We had spoken of
going to Staro-Tcherkask, and he immediately
ordered an equipage to be prepared for us. At
the same time, he invited us to dinner on our
return.
We descended the hill on which Novo-Tcher-
kask stands, crossed the Aksai by a good wooden
bridge, and soon reached Mishkin, the estate of
the late Count Platof which is described and re¬
presented in the next chapter.
campaign, and some of them highly distinguished themselves.
The Ataman acquired many laurels by his bravery.
o 2
19b HISTORY OF STARO-TCHERKASK.
After passing Mishkin, the road made many
windings to and from the banks of the Aksai, on
account of deep marshes. We found it tolerably
good, the summer being far advanced, but in the
spring and autumn, as it leads over a dead flat, it
must he almost impassable, except in telegas, or on
horseback.
We soon reached Staro-Tcherkask, and were
kindly received by the good old mother of General
Ilovaiskii, to whom we were recommended.
Tcherkask, now called Staro-Tcherkask (i. e.
Old Tcherkask) in contra-distinction to N/rvo-
Tcherkdslc (i. c. New Tcherkask), which is described
hereafter, was once a place of great importance.*
It was the capital of the Kozaks of the Don, and
the residence of their Ataman, the chief depot of
their military stores, and the place of safety in which
all their property was collected in time of war. It
was also the seat of their government, and the pal¬
ladium of their liberty.
Staro-Tcherkask was founded in the year 1570,
and formed of eleven stanitsas. It lies on the right
bank of the Don, and is surrounded by a small
river, named Vassiltevka, which, leaving a branch
of the Don, called Aksai, again joins this river not
far from Staro-Tcherkask, so that this town is partly
insulated. From its low marshy situation it is very
* To prevent all confusion, I shall always use the appellations
Staro-Tcherkask, and Novo-Tcherkask.—Vide Note, p.210. of
this Vol. Note.
FORMER POPULATION.—COMPARED TO VENICE. 197
unhealthy, and is every year inundated, so that the
lower story of the houses is tilled with water, and
the inhabitants visit each other in boats. This in¬
undation takes place at the beginning of April, and
continues till the end of June.
About twenty years ago, the number of inhabit¬
ants of Staro-Tcherkask amounted to 10,000
souls, and some say to 15,000; but it is now won¬
derfully diminished.
Dr. Clarke has given a very interesting account
of Staro-Tcherkask, illustrated by a view of the
approach to this capital, and another of its interior
during an inundation. This author tells us, that
Staro-Tcherkask, “ although not so grand as Ve¬
nice, somewhat resembles that city.” Dr. Kim-
mel also says, “ Le vieux Tcherkask sous bien des
rapports, merite le titre de Venise d’Asie.” And
the author of Letters from theCaucasus states, “ that
Staro-Tcherkask is another Venice.” Though I
have never seen Venice, I know it pretty well from
numerous plates and descriptions; and I can
scarcely conceive how any comparison could be
made between it and the former paltry capital of
the Don Kozaks. A mean town, completely in¬
undated, can only have a resemblance to a magni¬
ficent city every where intersected by fine canals,
in the simple circumstance of boats being every
where seen with the inhabitants passing and re-pas¬
sing among the houses.
The glory of Staro-Tcherkask is now past, and
19S CATHEDRAL.—DECLINE OF STARO-TCHERKASK.
its fame eclipsed by that of Novo-Tchcrkask. At
present its inhabitants do not exceed 2000 in num¬
ber. It contains a few good houses, but whole
streets present nothing but irregularity, meanness,
and dirt. The few remaining churches, some of
them with golden domes, are the only objects which
give life to the view 7 . Among these is the old ca¬
thedral, which, as is shown by a Sclavonic inscrip¬
tion in one of its galleries, was founded in 1700,
and finished in 1719, and dedicated to the Tri¬
nity, It is built after the model of the Russian
cathedrals ; its screen is one of the richest I
have seen, and the holy doors are of beautifully
worked silver. Sometimes the Don inundates its
foundation, rising twelve, fifteen, or more feet
above its usual level. On one of the corners of this
edifice is a brass plate, indicating the height to
which the water reached at different epochs. Great
floods took place in 1720, 1740, I76O, and I7S6;
in the last year about three feet of the wall was
under water.
All the authorities, the tribunals, and the govern¬
ment of the country of the Don Kozaks, have been
transported from Staro-Tcherkask to Novo-Tcher-
kiisk, so that while the former town is going to
ruin, the latter is augmenting its edifices and its
population, and daily becoming of more importance.
On our return to Novo-Tcherkask, we found
the Ataman engaged in a party at boston with some
oflicers of high rank, and were introduced to his
RETURN TO NOVO-TCHERKASK.-COL. NOZIKOMOF. 199
lady. During conversation the party was joined
by a number more officers, and dinner was then
served up in good style, in a handsome apartment.
Among other wines, that of the Don, which was
very old, was much liked by all present. Having
drank coffee, and signified our wish to depart,
we were informed that a calash and four was at
our disposal.
General Ilovaiskii is a polished gentleman, whose
manners are pleasing and elegant. He does not
speak French, and has less of French manners than
many other officers who were in the last campaign.
He has acquired a little German, but our convers¬
ation was all in Russian. His kindness demands
our gratitude.
At the Ataman’s we got acquainted with Co¬
lonel Nozikomof, who for many years was inti¬
mately attached to Count Platof, and who spoke of
him with the utmost enthusiasm. We followed
the Colonel to his fine house in Alexander’s Plost-
chad, or place, and he treated us with some delight¬
ful Don wine, which had been in his cellar for
many years.
After visiting different objects of curiosity, Co¬
lonel Nozikomof next carried us to the TJprav-
leniye , or general administration, a large new plain
edifice. In this building are assembled the offices
of all the chief functionaries of the country of the
Don Kozaks. In the council-room, where the
Ataman and head-court have their meetings, are
o 4-
‘200 UPRAVLENIYE.—NOVO-TCHERKASK FOUNDED.
contained the national regalia. Among these we
remarked the standard and mace of the Ataman j
letters patent and standards, from the Emperor
Alexander, splendidly adorned, which were sent
as testimonials of the service of the Kozaks in va¬
rious engagements; autograph copies of Platof’s
addresses to his army; and especially an address
to his own regiment, &c.
In the above edifice is also the chancery, which
consists of three expeditions, or departments ; the
military, the civil, and the economical. The names
of the two first explain themselves ; to the latter
belongs all that respects taxes and accounts. *
In consequence of the unhealthy situation of
Staro-Tcherkask, and the inconvenience, damage,
and loss of lives consequent upon its annual inun¬
dation, about the year 1807, the government decided
to build a new town, and to transport the inhabit¬
ants of the old one to it. Many plans were pro¬
posed to His Imperial Majesty Alexander, who
finally approved that of Count Platof; according
to which the town has been built, under the ma¬
nagement of an Italian architect named Rusca. t
The inhabitants, by habit, had become insensible of
the dangers which threatened them atStaro-Tcher-
kask, and for the best of reasons were extremely
* Great Dictionary of the Russian Empire, vol. vii. p. 82.
f Plans of the principal edifices are contained in Mr. Rusca’s
work, which is vntitXe&^Recueil des Desseins des Differens Bdti-
mens , a Saint Petersbourg , 2 vols. fol. St. Petersburg. 1810.
platof’s plan.—situation injudicious. 201
averse to remove from the banks of the,Don, which
afforded the means of carrying on an extensive
commerce.
Novo-Tcherkask is situated upon a hill, upon the
right bank of the Aksai, and on the borders of a
small river which disembogues into it, called Tous-
lof. * It is fifteen or sixteen versts distant from
Staro-Tcherkask. It commands a view of an ex¬
tensive plain watered by the Don and the Aksai,
as well as of the towns of Staro-Tcherkask, Aksai,
Itostof, and Naktsliivan. It is in contemplation
to cut a canal to the Don, so as to facilitate the
communications, and admit of supplies, as provi¬
sions, comparatively speaking, are dearer than they
were at the old town. The inhabitants both of
Staro-Tcherkask and Novo-Tcherkask, regret, and
apparently with much reason, that the seat of their
government was not transported to Aksai. The
removal of the population of Staro-Tcherkask from
the banks of so important a river as the Don to
the interior of the country, showed but little judg¬
ment in Platofj and I am surprised that the Rus¬
sian government should not have negatived his
proposal. It ought to have been remembered,
that a large navigable river is one of the first
sources of wealth to every town, by the facilities
which it affords for supplies of provisions and other
necessaries, as well as to trade in general. There
* Part of this town is seen in the Vignette to next chapter.
202 NOVO-TCHERKASK DESCRIBED.-POPULATION.
can be no doubt that the new town ought to have
been built on the Don, in one of the many fine
and elevated situations which present themselves,
and which are exempt at all times from inunda¬
tions. But the present Novo-Tcherkask was the
favourite object of Count Platof, who in his life
overcame all difficulties, and hurried on its esta¬
blishment.
Novo-Tcherkask extends nearly five versts in
length, and has a handsome appearance. At the
extremities of its principal street, which is ex¬
tremely broad, are erected elegant triumphal gates
of hewn stone, noticed hereafter. All the streets
are in straight lines, but are neither paved nor
lighted. One part of the town lies upon the de¬
clivity of the hill, but the finest is upon its summit.
The houses are far apart from each other, mostly
built of wood, but a number also of brick. The
churches are constructed of wood, and the found¬
ation of a large stone cathedral has been some years
laid. A large place, called Alexander’s Plostchad,
is surrounded by some good buildings, and here
the foundation of a palace, which Platof had des¬
tined for himself is also remarked.
In the year 1812, the number of inhabitants of
Novo-Tcherkask amounted to 2000 or 2,500; but,
in 1822, if the master of police informed us cor¬
rectly, it had increased to no less than 8000 souls.
Perhaps, however, 5000 or (iOOO, may be a calcu¬
lation nearer the truth, as there was evidently a
1'UBLIC BUILDINGS. — REMARKS ON KOZAKS 203
disposition among the inhabitants, and persons in
office, to represent this town in the most prosperous
condition. The greater part of the inhabitants are
Kozaks; but the Tartars, who formerly inhabited
Staro-Tcherkask, were transported hither, and have
a suburb for themselves, and a mosque for their
service. There are also a few Kalmucks here.
At Novo-Tcherkask there is a gymnasium, in
which are taught the Latin, German, and French
languages, history, geography, mathematics, phi¬
losophy, &c.; the Upravleniye, already noticed ;
an hospital, which is said to contain 120 beds;
an apothecary-shop, which belongs to the crown ;
and an arsenal; all deserving attention.
The Kozaks profess the same religion, and speak
the same language, as the Russians. There are
many Roskolniks among them, who have a peculiar
accent in their pronunciation. The customs and
government, however, of the country of the Donites,
differ greatly from those of the Russians. The
Kozaks are all free ; they know not the distinction
of lord and slave. They are a pastoral people,
and their chief riches consist in their cattle and
their horses. On the Don they are also great
fishers, and carry on a considerable traffic. It is
only of late years that some of the rich Kozaks
have received slaves from the Emperor, or have
bought them, to till their lands. The Kozaks are
not good agriculturists. They cultivate the vine,
especially near Staro-Tcherkask from which they
204 GENERAL REMARKS ON THE KOZAKS.
make both red and white wine, which has been
already mentioned
The country of the Don Kozaks forms one of
the governments of Russia, and its population is
stated by some at 318,900 souls. It contains 297b
geographical square miles, and, consequently, 107
individuals for each of these miles. According to
Yablovskii, however, its population does not ex¬
ceed 250,000 souls. Although subject to Russia,
yet this country preserves its ancient rights. The
Kozaks pay no taxes, but they furnish troops,
which they support at their own expence, except
in foreign countries. Almost every individual em¬
ployed in the affairs of the government of the
country of the Don Kozaks belongs to it, and is
named by the Ataman. This chief can only ad¬
vance to the rank of colonel, but such a rank
merely holds in the army of the Don. It is ne¬
cessary that the Emperor confirm every rank, or
that he give another to any individual, that he
may enjoy the same prerogatives as those who
have the same rank in the Russian army. In con¬
sequence of this, it often happens that a colonel of
the Kozaks is only a major in the imperial army.
For some years there has existed a hereditary
nobility, created by the Emperor. The son of such
a noble is at first an under-officer, but otherwise
does not enjoy any privilege in his country. The
humblest Kozak has the hope of arriving at the
highest rank, and even of becoming Ataman. The
MILITARY CHARACTER OF THE KOZAKS. 205
Ataman is named by the Emperor tor life, though
he may be changed at His Majesty’s pleasure.
The Kozaks of‘ the Don, as well as other tribes
of Kozaks, may be reckoned to form a kind of
military colonies, and perhaps gave the idea of
the present system of military colonisation which
is carrying on in the south of Russia, and the
particulars of which I have described in a pamphlet.
They are a pastoral and military people, who, be¬
sides guarding their own territories, are scattered
over various parts of the empire, and especially
where a mixed civil and military duty is required,
as about the public institutions, prisons, custom¬
houses, barriers, &c., of the capitals and towns.
They also form piquets and guards in the Caucasus
and Georgia.
Many contradictory accounts have been given
as to the courage and utility of the Kozaks. By
some they have been described as formidable war¬
riors, by others as miserable cavalry. They seem
to be well fitted for guarding the frontiers of an
enemy, their vigilance and activity being beyond
all question. But it is generally believed that they
cannot stand a charge of infantry, nor even resist
that of cavalry. The Russian officers in the Cau¬
casus will seldom entrust themselves entirely to the
protection of the Kozaks in passing any dangerous
defile, while they have no fear in doing so, when
guarded by a few Russian infantry. The real
MILITARY CHARACTER OF THE KOZAKS.
206
nature of the service of the Kozaks may be in¬
ferred from the two following quotations.
“ The Kozaks were long known as a predatory
set of people, who had been addicted to plunder
on the shores of the Black Sea. They spread
alarm even in Constantinople and in Asia Minor.
Amurath the Great used to say, that, in spite of
all the potentates in Europe, he could sleep on
both ears, but those gadflies (the Kozaks) would
scarcely suffer him to sleep on either.” *
“ The character and habits of the regular troops
or Kozaks of the Don, cette milice belliqueuse et in-
fatigable, are singularly well adapted for a gue¬
rilla warfare, and always formed the troops of the
partisans, who were able officers, and whose oper¬
ations were favoured by the hostile dispositions of
the peasantry toward the French. They proved
most ruinous to their enemies by cutting off their
resources for provisions and attacking their fo¬
raging parties, who dared scarcely venture five
versts from their camp.” t
* Letters on Poland, p. 314.
-J- Histoire Militaire dc la Campagne de ltussie en 1812, par
le Colonel Boutourlin.
CHAR XIX.
FAME OF PLATOF.— THE HISTORY OF HIS LIFE AND COMBATS.
- MR. SMIRNOl’s WORK. —PLATOF’s OPINIONS.—HIS GENERAL
CHARACTER. — ACCOUNT OF HIS BIRTH. — EDUCATION.-GE¬
NIUS-AMUSEMENTS. — ENTERS THE MILITARY SERVICE. -
DEPARTURE FOR THE KRIMEA. - HIS ADVANCEMENT. - HIS
BRAVERY ON THE KALALACII.- SENT AGAINST PUGATCHOF
AND TIIE MOUNTAIN TRIBES OF CAUCASUS.—DISTINGUISHES
IIIMSELF AT THE SIEGE OF OTCHAKOF. - ALSO AT KAUSHA-
NACH.-i-AND AT ISMAIL.- VISITS PETERSBURGII.- PRINCE
POTYEMKIN.-PLATOF’S PROMOTION.—FIGHTS IN PERSIA. -
THE EMPEROR PAUL’S FOOLISH CONDUCT.—HIS CHARACTER.
—PLATOF’S APPEARANCE AT COURT. — MADE ATAMAN OF
THE KOZAKS OF THE DON-FOUNDATION OF NOVO-TCIIER-
KASK. — PLATOF’S ATTACHMENT TO OLD CUSTOMS.- IIIS
DISTINCTIONS.— HIS ECCENTRICITY.—ANECDOTE. — HIS CHA¬
RACTER OF BUONAPARTE.— ANECDOTE.—SERVES AGAINST
THE TURKS. — REWARDS-FLATOF’s OPERATIONS IN 1812.—
vol, n, * o 8
208
FAME OF PLATOF.
MADE A COUNT. -ADDRESSES TO HIS SOLDIERS. -PRESENT
FROM THE EMPEROR.- IIIS VISIT TO ENGLAND. — PRESENTS
FROM AND TO THE PRINCE REGENT.-TIIE SWORD OF THE
CITY OF LONDON.- FLATOF’s ARRIVAL AT PETERSBURGII.—
SETS OFF FOR VIENNA.- HIS RETURN TO THE CAPITAL.-
DEPARTURE.—TRIUMPHAL JOURNEY.-ANECDOTE. - ENTRY
INTO NOVO-TCHERKASK. - HIS CONDUCT. — LABAUME’s AC¬
COUNT OF HIS SON’S DEATH. —REJOICING AND FESTIVALS.-
BIBLE SOCIETY. — IMPROVEMENTS.-PREPARATIONS FOR THE
RECEPTION OF THE EMPEROR.-VISIT OF THE GREAT DUKE
MICH AIL PAVLOVITCII. -MISHKIN.- PLATOF SETS OFF FOR
MOSCOW-HIS DEATH.— HJS CHARACTER.—HIS FAILINGS.—
HIS MONUMENT.
1 he fame which the late celebrated Ataman of
the Donskoi Kozaks, Count Matvei Ivanovitch
Platof has acquired throughout Europe, nay, over
the whole globe, in consequence of his spirit of
enterprise, his military prowess, his important ser¬
vices, and his victories, gained over the enemies
of Russia and of Britain, in the memorable cam¬
paign of 1812-13-14, renders an account of his
life of the highest importance. The unchangeable
fidelity which he manifested to his sovereign, and
the deep interest he took in the glory of Russia,
must ever render his memory dear to that empire.
His deeds did not pass in silence, nor require to
be brought more prominently into light by a post¬
humous publication. Platof was a favourite hero,
and a well-known warrior, and had the pleasure
of receiving the most distinguished marks of ap¬
probation and esteem from the crowned heads of
different nations of Europe j besides many other
TtlE HISTORY OF PLATOF’s LIFE AND COMBATS. 209
signal tokens of regard from corporate bodies, and
from the people. The astonishing interest our
hero excited, and the extraordinary attentions he
received, when he was in London in 1814, from
the British public, bespoke the national feeling,
and made the deepest impression upon his heart - y
indeed, esteem and gratitude, and even love,
seemed to overpower him at all times, when the
name of Britain, or of Briton, sounded in his cars.
A history of Platof was greatly wanted in conse¬
quence of the numerous erroneous reports which
have been in circulation with respect to his origin,
his life, his character, his condition in the world,
his combats, and his death. I therefore hope that
I shall be able to fill up a blank in the literature
of this country. I cannot conceal from my read¬
ers, however, that I have drawn very largely from
the recent work of Mr. Smirnoi, published under
the title of “ Life and Combats of Count Matvei
Ivanovitch Platof.”* This work, though unknown
in Britain, has met with distinguished patron¬
age abroad, both from the illustrious and the
learned, and has been perused, with the most en¬
thusiastic feelings, by thousands of the Kozaks of
the Don, at their various stations, scattered over the
Russian empire.
Mr. Smirnoi, the biographer of Platof was at-
* Jisn i Podvighi Grapha Matveya Jvanovitcha Platova
SotchinneniyeNikolaya Smirnaho, in 3 parts, 8vo.Moscow, 1821.
VOL. n.
r
210
MR. SMIRNOl’s WORK.
taclied ta him in a diplomatic character, became
his secretary and an inmate of his house, and was
one of his companions when travelling. He had
every opportunity of collecting accurate inform¬
ation respecting his life and victories, viva voce,
and it was known that he was composing the work
which is to be my chief guide, before the Ataman’s
death. #
Mr. Smirnoi’s work bears the stamp of authen¬
ticity in every page, and, though I do not think
he has at all times been prudent enough in con¬
cealing the failings of his hero, we have seldom to
complain of his extravagant statements. To have
been a protegd of Platof’s, and to have written
with less enthusiasm and panegyric, would pro¬
bably have argued want of taste, and want of
feeling. I have made liberal selections, and quot¬
ations from the Russian work, and I have added
some information with respect to Platof’s family,
which I collected at his residence, Novo-Tcher-
kaskf, as well as during my abode and travels in
Russia.
Platof’s public character is so well known, that
I shall be inclined to dwell less upon his military
* See a Journey from India to England, by Lt. Col. Johnson.
t The name should always be written so, and not Nevo Tcher-
kdsk . If the Russians were to half translate Old Bailey into
Staro-Bailey , how ridiculous would it appear. Tcherk&sk is
now called Staro-Tcherkdsk, i. e. Old Tcherkask, in contradis¬
tinction to j Novo-'Tcherkask, i. e. New Tcherkask.
PLATOf’s OPINIONS.-HIS CHARACTER. 211
conduct and lieroic feats, than upon his domestic
occupations, and his private life.
I regret that Smirnoi’s work does not contain
more of Platof’s opinions, anecdotes, and convers¬
ations. Some of his opinions, however, are stated,
which are very amusing, and have a peculiar in¬
terest. They are the blunt, frank, and unsophis¬
ticated expressions of a great mind which had
never received a proper cultivation ; of a genius
which despised the flattery, the hypocrisy, and the
deceptions which are often met with in polished
life; and of a heart which looked with consummate
disdain upon the general professions and actions of
courtiers. Platof was always a Kozak; — the same
when a private, as when a chieftain, whether in the
midst of his darling soldiers in the camp, or in
palaces „with the continental sovereigns; whether
as the champion of his country residing upon the
Don, or receiving the attentions and the praises
of the crowned heads in the capitals of Europe.
He was a half-civilised, but brave and successful
soldier of fortune, who, by his own energy, enter¬
prise, merit, perseverance, and unconquerable va¬
lour, raised himself from the lowest rank to the
highest station in his country.
Platof’s memory is deservedly cherished with
esteem, love, and even veneration, among his
countrymen. Young and old, rich and poor,
glory in the repetition of his name, as if he were
already sainted or immortal. He was truly the
p 2
212 platof’s general character.
patriarchal father, the baronial chief of feudal
times;—the judge, the guide, and the protector
of his people in peace; their leader, their hero,
and their conqueror in war. His presence excited
reverence in the country; the sound of his martial
voice was in itself a host, inspiring terror into his
enemies, and the confidence which ensures success,
to his followers.
The celebrated northern poet, Jukovskii, in
“ The Minstrel in the Russian Camp” who apo¬
strophises the most renowned heroes of the auto¬
cratic imperial army, especially those who distin¬
guished themselves in the last campaign against
the Emperor Napoleon, gives his meed of praise
to Platof in the following stanza : —
“ And thou, Platof! thou storm of fight,
Thou Ataman, the Lion!
Thy busy lance — thy sling of might,
Scathe—scatter all they fly on.
A wild wolf broken from his lair —
An eagle on stretch’d pinion: —
Death whispering in the foeman’s ear
Throughout thy wide dominion.
Amidst the woods his torches fly —
How spreads the conflagration !
Bridges oppose—in dust they lie —
Towns—all is desolation!”*
* Bowring’s Russian Anthology, part ii. p. 71.
I do not think the original one of the most happy efforts of
the poet’s lyre. Mr. Bowring’s translation is superior to it.
it illustrates, however, the general opinion with respect to
213
ACCOUNT OF FLATOF’s FIltTH.
Count Platof was born on the 6th August 1751,
in the Stanitsa * Staro-Tcherkask, upon the Don. f
Platof’s military prowess, and the mode of warfare among the
“ clouds of Kozaks.** The following is a literal prose trans¬
lation : —
Praises! Our whirlwind — Ataman,
Chieftain of the unbroken, Platof!
Thy enchanted arkan , J
A storm for thine enemies.
The eagle resounds in the clouds ;
On the earth the wolf roars.
Pear flies behind our enemies,
Misery whispers in their ears.
They fly to the woods — the woods burn;
The derevni § pour out arrows ;
They fly to the bridges — the bridges are destroyed;
They fly to the villages—the villages are in flames.
* Stanitsa . The villages of the Koz&ks, with an allotment
of land and of fishing, are called Stanitsi , or stations, because
the whole of the males of their country being trained to arms,
and residing at their homes, form a kind of military colonies.
They live by cultivating the ground, and by their fisheries, till
the tocsin of war calls them to the field.
f On the banks of the Don, the following fables are reported
by the good old people respecting Platofs birth ; and, as they
are characteristic of the superstitions of the Koz&ks, of which
the late Atamdn himself possessed a liberal portion, they are
\ Arkan is a long cord with a noose, which the Kirghiss and the KozAks
use in order to seize and carry off prisoners.
§ j Derevni means villages without churches, and is used by the poet in con¬
tradistinction to the word Sclo , which occurs in the last line, and which sig¬
nifies villages with churches. The Germans make a similar distinction in
Dorf and Kirchdorf.
p 3
C 214 platof’s education.
His fatlier was a Voiskovoi Starshin *, and had the
rank of major. By the steadiness of his character
and his virtuous life, he attracted the love and ap¬
probation of all his neighbours. His wife, the mo¬
ther of Count Platof, shared the public esteem with
him. Their circumstances were very moderate;
and, on that account, they were unable to give
the more worthy of being recorded. About the time that Pla¬
tof was expected to see the light, his father was occupied with
navigation upon the Don, and went to examine his barge, which
was not farther distant than ]00 fathoms from his house. On
the road thence, some kind of bird, while flying over him,
dropped a piece of rye bread upon his hat. The respectable
old man having crossed himself, offered up a prayer, and con¬
cealed the piece of bread in his pocket. Then, on approaching
the bank of the river, another wonder was manifested. A fish,
called Sazan , (a species of carp,) without any visible excite¬
ment, sprung out of the water, and was so tranquil that he was
enabled to catch it, and carry it home alive. Scarcely had he
reached his home, when his ears were delighted with the agree¬
able intelligence that God had given him a son. The old man
looked upon all that had happened as a blessed augury of
heaven, and thanked the Almighty with all his heart. He re¬
galed his neighbours with vodtki (spirits), and they eat the
bread, and, having invited his friends to dinner, they devoured
the fish he had caught.
* The rank of Voiskovoi Starshin , in those days, was much
more highly esteemed than at present. Then the officers of
the army of the Don had not the same facility of promotion as
those of the regular army, and those alone were raised who dis¬
tinguished themselves by their service. Long afterwards, the
Emperor Paul, on account of the faithful and brave service of
the troops of the Don, put them upon an equality in obtaining
rank with the regular army. Voiskovoi Starshin literally means
Military Syndic, or Elder.
fi.atof’s genius.
AMUSEMENTS. '
<215
their son any education beyond reading and writing
Russ; but, in recompense for this, they took care
to form his character with all parental tenderness.
From his very youth they endeavoured to fix in
his mind the tenets of the Greek church, voluntary
obedience to authorities, unbounded devotion and
fidelity to his sovereign, unalterable attachment to
his relations and to old customs, and to inspire bis
soul with military courage. According to the cus¬
tom of the inhabitants of the Don, relating the
distinguished victories of his country, they sowed
in their son’s heart the seeds of patriotic virtues,
and loused his zeal to proceed in the path which
leads to true fame.
In his earliest years, Platof gave proofs of an
uncommon mind and understanding. Every thing
in him indicated premature manhood, and that he
had been created for those famous combats by
which he acquired glory in the eyes of Russia, and
of all Europe, and which threw lustre upon his
native land, and secured its weal. All the youth¬
ful amusements in which he indulged were manly
and useful. They consisted in perfecting himself
in horsemanship, with the evolutions and celerity
of a Kozak; in hunting, fishing, shooting, and
such occupations. Even now, there are old peo¬
ple living who report, that in intrepidity and for¬
titude, Platof far exceeded all the cotemporary
youths of the Don. Thus passed the early days
p 4
‘216 PLATOF ENTERS THE MILITARY SERVICE.
of the future hero, under the guardianship of his
parents.
At the age of thirteen, Platof entered the ser¬
vice of his country as an Uriadnik. * His hither,
a religious old man, having dedicated his son to
the service of his sovereign, gave him strict orders^
which formed his chief heritage, that he should
always have before him his own example, who,
without the least protection, but by faithful ser¬
vice to his sovereign and to his country, had ar¬
rived at the rank of a staff-officer,—that he should
preserve unaltered the customs of his parents, —
that he should every where, and in all things, con¬
duct himself as a good Christian, with full confi¬
dence in God, not only on important but also in
the most trifling occurrences of life, — that he
should be true and faithful to his sovereign and to
his country, serve the government, be attentive to
his equals, condescending to his inferiors, and
strict rather with himself than with those of in¬
ferior rank : in short, that he should never forget
the country in which he had been born, nourished,
and educated.
Setting forward, with such home education and
* Uriadnik means him whose duty it is to keep order for the
time being, an orderly. Thus at the military post stations in
the Caucasus, and in the country of the Don Koz&ks, the
Uriadnik receives and inscribes your travelling order for post-
horses, and assists your arrangements, for which he usually
receives drink-money.
plat6f enters the MILITARY SERVICE. 217
parental benediction, to the field of warfare, the
young Platof did not long remain in obscurity.
His exactness in the fulfilment of the duties im¬
posed upon him; the rapidity and remarkable hardi¬
ness he showed in his first experiments in the
profession of a soldier; his quick, comprehensive,
and clear judgment; and his decisive character j
soon drew to him the attention of high and
low, commanded general approbation and confi¬
dence, and caused him to be taken much notice
of by those at the head of government. Platof
was very soon advanced to be an officer, and, when
he happened to be on duty at the commander-in¬
chief’s, was invariably treated with much distinction,
and asked to his table. His superiors in rank
taught him to feel that he was elevated above the
rank of the common Donites, and to look forward
to a bright career of military fame. His indefati¬
gable assiduity and attention augmented from day
to day. He allowed nothing to pass without par¬
ticular examination, and left no object, which had
once excited his regard and curiosity, without
informing himself thoroughly of its nature. His
activity was not, however, confined to military oc¬
cupations— the kind of service peculiar to the
Kozaks, to which he was always attached heart
and soul, —he endeavoured to gain information in
other departments, and took advantage of all oc¬
casions to obtain a knowledge of the world. The
result showed, that in this respect he had been
218 PLATOF ENTERS THE MILITARY SERVICE.
completely successful. He was peculiarly attentive
in seizing the expressions of distinguished indivi¬
duals indicating penetration or solidity of thought.
He lost not a moment in idleness, and no means
of informing his mind was allowed to pass without
advantage. Aware that reading books contributed
to this purpose, he consecrated his leisure to this
delightful occupation. * The perusal of general
and particular history made him acquainted with
the great men of ancient days, and their example
inflamed his soul which, without excitement, was
of a very ardent cast. This strict self-discipline
prepared the future hero.
Before the commencement of the first Turkish
war, Platof’s father was sent with a regiment of
the Don, first to the Baradinskii line, and after¬
wards to St. Petersburg!). He left his son in charge
of his domestic affairs, chiefly of his fisheries on the
shores of the sea of Azoph ; but no sooner had “ the
thunder thundered” (vosgremel groin) of military
arms, than the heart of the young soldier was in¬
flamed with zeal to fly to the post which his coun¬
trymen occupied, and with them to share their
labours and dangers. Although he had not received
the parental benediction for such praiseworthy
conduct, and that in the absence of his father, the
* How much might it be regretted that he had not had the
use of a good library; for in his early days, upon the Don, it
may be presumed but few books, and those, of course, chiefly
translations, were to be procured !
PLATOF’s DEPARTURE FOR THE KR1MEA. ‘21<J
domestic affairs committed to Ins charge might tall
into disorder, if left without inspection, he resolved
to leave them to the care of stewards (prikcistchiLi),
and having taken a horse and the necessary trap¬
pings, he set out, in the year 1770 , for the Krimea.
There he presented himself to Prince Vassilii Mi-
chai'lovitch Dolgorukof \ commander-in-chief of the
army. He gained the good opinion of the Prince,
and was soon afterwards attached to him. Plato f
then received the rank of esaul, or captain, and he
was entrusted with the command of a hundred
Kozaks, who formed part of the staff, from different
regiments. Having secured the early favourable
impressions of his chief by his exemplary conduct,
he was soon raised to the rank of Voiskovoi Starshin ,
and he now found himself at the head of a regi¬
ment of his favourite Donskoi Kozaks. At this
time he was not more than twenty years of
age. Notwithstanding his youth, the new-made
Starslun soon exhibited signs of uncommon intre¬
pidity, presence of mind, and knowledge of military
tactics, by saving himself and the force entrusted
to him, from imminent danger of annihilation.
This, the first important affair in which he had
engaged, happened in the Kuban, and on the river
Kalalach, on the 3d of April 1774'. He was charged
with the convoy of provisions and ammunition to
the army. His whole force consisted of his own
regiment, and the regiment of Larionof with one
piece of artillery, and a considerable number of
220 PLATOf’s bravery on the kalalacii.
baggage waggons. In his progress to the place of
destination, in a most extensive step *, and com¬
pletely separated from other forces, he was sud¬
denly surrounded by the Tartars of the Krimea,
under the command of the Khan, Devlet Gherri,
whose troops ten times exceeded his own in num¬
ber. It was the general opinion of all his com¬
panions, as well as of the commander of the other
regiment, that they ought to surrender themselves
and baggage rather than engage in so unequal a
contest; but the young hero, Plat6f, was of a dif¬
ferent opinion. He caused the baggage waggons
to stop, and thus harangued his soldiers : “ My
friends, there remains for us either a glorious death,
or victory. We should not be Russians t and
Donites if we feared the enemy ; with the assist¬
ance of God, let us repel their audacious attacks.”
He ordered the small force he commanded to be
immediately surrounded by the telegas (small four-
wheeled carts) and by the sacks taken out of them,
and in this manner formed a kind of fortification.
Afterwards he picked out two Kozaks, whose dar¬
ing spirit, temerity, and bravery, had been proved
on former occasions, and told them that he put his
* Vide p. 134. of Vol. I.
\ I suspect that the biographer has inadvertently, if not
willingly, added the word Russians, as the Kozaks are not
Russians, but Malo-Russians, or a distinct race ; and especially
because the Kozaks think themselves a superior people to the
Russians.
tlatof’s bravery on tiie kalalacii. 221
life in their hands; and that, if they died gloriously
in the act to which they were destined, for the
Tsaritsa (Empress) their mother, for the safety of
their brethren, wives and children, they would be
rewarded in heaven by an immortal crown. He
then despatched them to Lieut. Col. Buchovistof,
who was on the opposite bank of the Kalalach
with a chasseur-battalion, begging him to come to
his assistance. The attack was furiously com¬
menced by the Tartars, and as bravely resisted by
the Kozaks of the Don. In the mean time, one
of the messengers reached the Colonel, while
the other fell a sacrifice to the cause of his coun¬
try. The chasseur-battalion was immediately in
motion; and the Tartars, having already lost a
number of men, and seeing fresh troops, of whose
numbers they were uncertain, coming up, be¬
took themselves to flight, and left Platof com¬
pletely master of the field. This triumph of the
young warrior was followed by most sincere and
ardent thanksgiving to the God of battles : a prac¬
tice which ceased only with the hero’s existence.
Platof" had previously shared in the honour of
taking the lines of Pcrekop, and of a victory near
Kinburn, in the year 1771 j but it was this engage¬
ment in the Kuban which established his reput¬
ation throughout the Russian armies.
After the conclusion of peace with the Turks
at Kainardji, Platof was sent to the Kuban. He
was employed in 1774 for the suppression of the
222 THE REBEL PfjGATCHOF.-OTCHAKOF.
notorious rebel, Pugatchof. After that individual
bad been seized and delivered over to justice, he
was occupied, in the years 177-5-6-7, in the de¬
struction of bands of his followers. He was next
sent against the tribes who dwell beyond the river
Kuban, where he remained in 1782-3. In 1784-
lie was destined to oppose two of the most bar¬
barous and ferocious tribes of mount Caucasus,
the Tchitchentsi and the Lesghees.
About this time Prince Potyemkin became com¬
mander-in-chief of the southern army, and a new
campaign with the Turks was opened by the siege
of Otchakofj which was soon afterwards taken by
storm; and Platof, who had attained the rank of
colonel, participated in the glory of the day. In
the month of September 1789, our hero greatly
distinguished himself in the battle of Kaushanach ;
and, in consequence, was rewarded with the rank
of Brigadier-General, and also named the Pochocl-
noi Ataman, or Field-Ataman, i. e. the Ataman
who accompanies or marches with the army. In
the same month, he acted a valiant part in the
memorable capture of the strong fortress and town
of Belgrade, or Akkerman ; which is situated upon
an elevated rock on the right bank of the liman *
of the Dnester, at the distance of fifteen versts
from the Black Sea. In 1790, he was a participator
of the dangers and of the honours of the dreadful
* Vide p. 156. of Vo). I.
PLATOF distinguishes HIMSELF AT ISMAIL. 223
conflict which took place at the attack and capture
of the fortress of Ismail upon the Danube, hitherto
deemed impregnable. The well-known, singular,
and laconic Suvarof, received the order to take
this castle * within three days. He called a kind
of council of war, and having desired that every
one present should give his unbiassed opinion,
trusting to God and his conscience, he left the
assembly. A sheet of paper was brought, in order
that each member of the meeting might write
down his opinion as to their future operations.
The brave hero of this memoir being the young¬
est brigadier-general present, it was his duty to
write first. He hesitated not, but noted down,
“ to storm the fortress /” and he was followed in
his decision by all the commanders present. Run¬
ning into the tent, and remarking a general consent
among the officers, Suvarof, in ecstasy, kissed
them all, and vociferated: “ One day to 'worship
God, another day for instruction, and the third day,
a glorious death or victory!” The successful,
but awful result of this sanguinary conflict is well
known. The Turks are said to have lost 35,000
men, and the Russians a prodigious number. Here,
as usual, Platof acted his part well. He fought
most gallantly, and gave fresh indications of his fu¬
ture greatness. His sovereign now bestowed on him
the military order of St. George, of the third class,
* Videp. 127. Vol.I.
224
PLATOF VISITS PETERSBURG!!.
which must have proved a great source of pleasure
to him, as this is the most creditable order in
Russia; and is very unlike some of the others —
neither to be bought nor sold, but must be
fought for—being only given as a reward for
gallant behaviour in the field.
Potyemkin early discovered the splendid natural
talents of Platof, and he made him Ataman of the
Yekaterinoslaf Kozaks, who were formed from the
Odnovortsi (or possessors of one house), and of
the Kozaks of Tchuguef.*
Platof visited Petersburg in the year 1791, and
his military renown having preceded him, he was
received in the most flattering manner, both by
sovereign and subject. It was at this time that
Potyemkin made his last visit to Petersburgh to
enjoy the laurels awarded to his successes: and
that he gave his sovereign the most splendid recep¬
tion in the Tauridan palace, which, perhaps, was
ever offered by a subject to a prince; but the joy
of which ’must have been destroyed by the pre¬
sentiment he felt, “ that the kingdom was departing
from himor rather that it was the last magni¬
ficent interview which he was to have with that
wonderful, but wily and profligate, genius of the
* The Kozaks of Tchuguef were afterwards converted into
regular cavalry regiments; and they yielded with the highest
reluctance to their late destiny of being formed into military
colonies. See “ Account of the Organization, Administra¬
tion, &cof the Military Colonies in Russia, p.21. 1824.”
POTYEMKIN.-PLA'FoF’s PROMOTION. — PERSIA. 225
north, whose favour he had long enjoyed, and
whose empire he had in a manner ruled. Pot¬
yemkin returned to the camp; and, as is well
known, died near Yassi. His body, as formerly
noticed, was buried in the principal church of
Kherson; and as an awful lesson to humanity, of
the instability of mortal fame, no one dare to
point out to the passing traveller the place where
the remains of this distinguished man repose.
The conqueror of southern Russia has no spot
sacred to his relics, no stone to indicate where
he is at rest. Sic transit gloria mundi. * Some
think that such an end is the just reward of his
life, while others are disposed to erect a monu¬
ment to perpetuate his fame. But it is time to
return to our subject.
Peace with the Turks followed Potyemkin's
death; and the empress’s new favourite. Count
V. A. Zubof, having succeeded to the command of
the army, the rank of major-general was bestowed
upon Platofi and he was also made the Pochodnoi
Voiskovoi Ataman, or the Field-Military Ataman, of
the Kozaks of the Don, as well as of the other Kozak
regiments in Zubof’s army. Platof fought with
this army, in the war against the Persians, for two
years and at its conclusion, he had the honour
to receive a sword “ for bravery,” from his
sovereign.
VOL. II.
* Vide p. 213. Vol. I.
Q
22() TI1F. EMPEROR PAUL’S FOOLISH CONDUCT.
Hitherto we have seen Platof in the Krimea, in
the Kuban, in Moldavia, and in Persia, marching
steadily forward in the road of military fame, fa¬
voured by fortune, and guided by his “ good ge¬
nius.” Concealed enemies, in the depth of envy,
jealousy, and malice, had attempted in vain to turn
the heart of his Imperial mistress, Catherine II.
against him ; but that monarch was not easily to
be led away, or to be duped. The inconsiderate,
flexible, and misguided Paul, however, lent an ear to
false accusations, and was led to commit a great mis¬
take. It is generally believed that the brave Suvarof
fell a victim to this sovereign’s cruel conduct ;
and, it appears, that Platof narrowly escaped a simi¬
lar fate. Mr. Smirnoi gives us to understand, that
our hero was upon good terms “ with the heir of
Catherine, of blessed memory, who, with such a
soul, such a heart, and such an understanding,
knew how to do justice to merit, how to elevate,
and how to reward like a sovereign, when no foreign
feeling prevented the activity of bis truly innate and
sovereign virtues.” Afterwards, however, when
Platof set off on a visit to his country and family,
various reports were made to the Emperor with re¬
spect to his want of allegiance, and to his collusion
with the tribes of the Caucasus to make a general
revolt. Platof was stopped in his career, carried to
Kolomna, and from thence to Petersburgh, where
he was lodged in the castle of Peter and Paul. But
the Emperor discovered his upright conduct, and the
THE EMPEROR I'AUl/S CHARACTER. 227
baseness of his enemies, whom he gave np to cine
punishment, while he, to nse the author’s extraor¬
dinary expression, “ granted a complete pardon to
Platof,” and received him into great favour. Par¬
don was granted for the Emperor’s mistake !*
The villanous report originated with a country¬
man of Platof’s, who could not endure his distinc¬
tions, and evidently wished to supplant him in the
monarch’s favour. Paul, like most violent persons,
had a good heart, and, in his calm moments, gene¬
rally wished to redeem the injuries which lie had com¬
mitted when under the influence of ungovernable
passion, or of mistake. This was so well known,
that the grandees of the north did not frown, in
those days, at the sight, or even the feel, of the
Imperial cane. Flagellation generally became the
passport to honours or a lucrative station, and
sometimes to the arend (lease) of an estate.
To recompense Platof for the injustice of his
enemies, and for his own rash cruelty, Paul, accord¬
ing to custom, loaded him with favours, and ordered
his presentation at court. Unfortunately, Platof’s
uniform was not made according to the fashion of
the day, and this soldier well knew the tact and
minuteness with which his Imperial master regarded
the exterior of every individual who came under
his cognisance. The least non-conformity to the
prescribed etiquette of the time, or of the day,
•* See Character of the Russians, &c. p.lxiv.
Q 2
228 platof’s appearance at court.
might have lost him the favourable impressions of
Paul, and the rewards which awaited him. To
add to Platof’s anxiety and distress, the present¬
ation was ordered to take place so soon, that there
was not time for making a new dress. He hesitated
how to act, knowing not what might be the result
of the violent excitement of his sovereign’s mind.
At length he sent to all the well-known tailors in
the Residence to enquire after a ready-made uniform
for a general of the Kozak army. At one of the
tailors’ such a dress was found, and, what is re¬
markable, it belonged to the most bitter of Platof’s
enemies who had sought his ruin. Platof was pre¬
sented to his sovereign, and, among other marks
of Imperial favour, he received the cross of the
order of St. John of Jerusalem, of which order,
Paul, for a time, became the self-elected mock
grand-master, or purchaser.
Soon after this,Platof was ordered to return home
where he became assistant in the administration to
the Voiskovoi Ataman of the Don territory.
In 1801 a horrid end was put to Paul’s days, and
his son and successor, Alexander, who was well
acquainted with Platof’s merit, soon had an oppor¬
tunity of publicly testifying his high regard for him.
The distinguished and lamented Voiskovoi Atanuin
of the Donskoi Kozaks, General Orlof*, died during
* Mr. Heber, now Bishop of Calcutta, whose general ac¬
curacy is wonderful, and whose notes add so much value to
PLATOF' MADE ATAMAN OF THE DON KOZAKS. QQQ
the first year of Alexander’s reign, and the new so¬
vereign did not hesitate to nominate Platof his suc¬
cessor, although many of his countrymen were
older, and appeared to have prior claims. Platof was
soon afterwards presented to Alexander in his new
capacity. He now began to occupy himself with
his favourite scheme — the foundation of Novo-
Tcherkask, which I have already described at
length.
Platof was strict in ordering the Kozaks to wear
their native dress, and once lie had two officers put
under arrest because they had shown themselves in
common coats. His creed and practice were very
different from Peter the Great’s ; “ for,” says his
biographer, “ he knew that from a change of na-
Clarke’s Travels in Russia, says, that “ Platof’s predecessor
was the last Ataman who was in possession of his ancient privi¬
leges. He had often, by his own authority, bound men hand
and foot and thrown them into the Don. He was unexpectedly
seized and carried off by the orders of the Empress ( Catharine ),
and succeeded, as general of the armies of the Don, by Maffei
lvanovitch Platof, a fine civil old soldier, with the great cordon
of St. Anne.” See Clarke’s Travels, vol. i. p. 292. Note.
The errors of this statement are obvious ; General Orlof, the
predecessor of Platof for a short time, Mr. Smirnoi speaks of
as one whose administration begat him general love, approb¬
ation, and confidence, and whose memory and name are pre¬
served with attachment and esteem in the hearts of theDonites.
Mr. Heber, no doubt, has been led into the mistake in conse¬
quence of some one confounding the Ataman-General of the
Don territory, with the Ataman of a village; for the chief of
each stanitsa has the title of Ataman . At one time the term
Ataman signified a chief of banditti.
Q 3
230 platof’s attachment to old customs.
tional dress, there is only one step to a change ol
national manners,” and this he did not want.
In the war carried on by Austria, Prussia, and
Russia, against France, Platof first showed himself
with the Donskoi Kozaks, marching toward the
centre of Europe. A new field of glory apparently
opened for his exertions ; but his small army had
scarcely reached the confines of Russia when peace
put a stop to his progress. The repose of Europe,
however, did not long endure; and, in the war
which commenced toward the end of 1806, and
which was terminated by the inglorious peace of
Tilsit, Platof bore an eminent part, and became
known to all Europe.
My limits do not' allow me to enter into the de¬
tails of all the engagements and services of Platof
which are recorded minutely in Mr. Smirnoi’s
work, and which are in fact so generally known as
to render the task unnecessary. In this campaign
the Kozak army under Platof took prisoners,
nine start-officers, 130 superior officers, and 4196
of the lower ranks; while, in the Donskoi regi¬
ments, were killed two staff-officers; seven supe¬
rior officers ; sixteen uriacbiiks *; and 169 Kozaks;
and, were wounded, one staff-officer, twenty-one
superior officers, thirty-four uriadniks , and 397
Kozaks.
In reward for his eminent services in this cam-
* Vide p. 216. of this Volume. Note.
platof’s distinctions. 231
paign, Platof received from the Emperor the order
of St. Alexander Nevskii, and soon after, the same
order in brilliants, and a gold snuff-box, with his
sovereign’s portrait, of fine workmanship, beset
with precious stones, and valued at least at thirty
thousand roubles. The king of Prussia showed
him the greatest kindness, and in this he was fol¬
lowed by the queen. He was often at the royal
table, and he received, besides the orders of the
Red and Black Eagles, a gold snuff-box, with the
king’s portrait also set in brilliants and rubies. Sir
Robert Wilson says, “ When the king of Prussia
was anxious to find some farther distinction for
Platof, who, by a series of great and gallant ser¬
vices, had exhausted the usual means of royal re¬
compense for military achievements, the queen
graciously discovered the compliment that would
be most grateful to him, and presented into his
hands a beautiful heron’s plume, rendered inesti¬
mable to all who admire beauty, and every female
accomplishment that could distinguish a woman
and a sovereign, by having herself once worn it.
Platof received it with enthusiastic and grateful
emotions ; but, on his knees, solicited permission
that his “ wife might wear it on the most solemn
occasions, as lie should contemplate it with suitable
veneration, when so borne by one who was more
worthy than himself of this honour.” *
* Brief Remarks on the Character and Composition of the
.Russian Army, &c. p. 36.
Q 4<
232
PLATOF’s ECCENTRICITY.-ANECDOTE.
After the conclusion of the general peace at
Tilsit in 1807, at an interview of the monarchs, the
Emperor Napoleon signified to Alexander his wish
to bestow the order of' the Legion of Honour upon
some of the distinguished generals of the Russian
army. The intention of Napoleon was made known
to Platof, with the design that he might be led to
express a wish to be included among the select
small number. The Ataman knowing that there
were present those who would carry his answer to
Buonaparte, is said to have made the following
speech : “ It is his will — as he likes — but if he
actually send me his order as a recompense, I will
not receive it, and so I will inform my liege so¬
vereign. Why should he reward me ? I certainly
never served him. I serve my natural sovereign
in faith and truth. I never exchanged any thing
for him : for the sake of our angel, of the eternal
and patriotic love of our country, I am always
ready to shed my best blood against him, to the
last drop, and till my latest breath : but, for him I
will not sacrifice one drop of blood; not a moment
of time ; and nobody will oblige me to do so : in
testimony whereof I do penance, and bow before
Almighty God.” *
Platof could not conceal his wish, however, to
examine Buonaparte more nearly, and at a review
* Platdf’s peculiar style and manner is alluded to hereafter:
at times it seems incoherent. Vide p. 253. of this Vol.
CHARACTER OF BUONAPARTE.-ANECDOTE. 233
of the troops, where all the crowned heads of Tilsit
were present, one of the French officers remarked
the eager attention with which Platof rivetted
his eyes upon Napoleon ; but the veteran, with
presence of mind, though in words which ill-
disguised his thoughts, replied, “ I am not looking
at your emperor; in him there is nothing extra¬
ordinary ; he is as other people; I am looking at
his horse, and I wish to know its race.”
Among his own friends Platof gave the follow¬
ing opinion of Buonaparte: “ Although his pene¬
trating look, and the features of his face, indicate
great strength of mind, yet, at the same time, they
manifest uncommon severity. That man was not
born for the weal, but for the misfortune of the
human race.”
The Emperor Napoleon having heard of Platof’s
great dexterity in shooting with the bow used by
the Tartars and the Bashkirs, signified his wish to
witness the feats of the Ataman to the Emperor
Alexander, who acted as interpreter on the occa¬
sion. Buonaparte is said to have been astonished,
and to have begged Platof to receive a gold
snuff-box, decorated with his portrait and precious
stones, as a remembrance of him. But the will of
his sovereign, Alexander, which may be considered
as equivalent to a command, alone could induce
the Ataman to receive the proffered present. That
he might not, however, remain in debt to the Em¬
peror of the French, he immediately presented the
234 PLATOF SERVES AGAINST THE TURKS.
bow which he liad used to His Majesty. Platof'
liad scarcely returned to his quarters, when he
took out the stones from the snuff-box, and by the
first opportunity he sent them to his daughters;
but he allowed the portrait to remain until the
triumphal entry of the Russian troops into Paris,
when he received the intelligence of Buonaparte’s
resignation of the throne. Then, in an ecstasy, he
tore out the portrait from the box, and ordered it
to be replaced by an antique. This transformed
box he used as a kind of trophy till the day of his
death.
Platof partly shared in the campaign against the'"
Turks, with the army under General Field-marshal
Prince Prosorovskii, in the year 1809, which gave
him an opportunity of adding fresh laurels to his
wreath of fame. “ For all his combats,” the Em¬
peror granted him the rank of general of cavalry,
the order of St. George of the second class, great
cross, and the order of the first rank of St. Vladimir.
Our hero was now taken dangerously ill, and the
physicians reported that he was threatened with
consumption. The Emperor having heard of this,
allowed him to quit the Moldavian army, upon
condition that on his recovery he should show him¬
self at Petersburgh, where a particular affair de¬
manded his arrival. Some months after his return
to the Don he recovered his health, and then set
off for the Residence, where he was most graciously
received by his sovereign, and most kindly treated
OPERATIONS IN 1812. — MADE A COUNT. 235
t
by all ranks. While there, a complete table service
of china, which hail been made at the royal pot¬
teries, and which had been expedited by the King
of Prussia, was received. What rendered this pre¬
sent more valuable, was the circumstance of the
service being ornamented with the royal arms, and
representations of different engagements, and espe¬
cially of those of the hero himself.
We hear little more of Platof till the year 1812.
The events of the last campaign are too well
known, and too fresh in every one’s mind, to stand
in need of repetition here. The share Platof and
the Kozaks had during the advance of the French
into Russia, their stay there, and their retreat, is
well illustrated by a table in the Appendix of
Smirnoi’s work. From the statements therein
contained, it appears that from the 2/'th of June
till about the middle of December 1812, i. e. till
the pursuit beyond Kovno to Vilkoviskii, “ there
were killed 18,300; taken, 10generals, 101<7 staff
and superior officers; and 30,511 of the lower
ranks; besides 15 standards, 364 cannon, and
1066 ammunition waggons, by Platof 5 s army alone.
For different victories near Smolensk, in the
retreat of the French, the Emperor created Platof
a count, and made the title hereditary in his
family.
Some of Platof’s addresses to his troops arc well
worth attention, as well as the orders he sent to
his native country in the emergency of 1812. They
23() ADDRESSES.-PRESENT.-ENGLAND.
had an electric effect, and instantaneously assembled
all the males. Youths scarcely fourteen years of
age, and hoary heads bending toward the grave,
were ranged in the ranks, and seen on the march to
join their brethren in arms.
Of the progress of the Russian army from the
Niemen to Paris, I shall say nothing ; but the fol¬
lowing anecdote is worth recording, and shows that
it required invention to know with what additional
honours to load Platof. While the confederate
sovereigns were at Frankfort, Count Platof was sit¬
ting at his window, when Count Araktclnef’s ad¬
jutant arrived with a new gift from the monarch,
“a rich feather, with laurel wreaths of the imperial
crest, all made of brilliants, to wear in his cap
but I should suppose the Ataman never made an
exhibition of himself with such a gaudy ornament
upon his head. “ The Count immediately rose
from the table, prayed God for the health of his
adored sovereign, and then drank a bumper of wine
to his august health.”
“ The Emperor having resolved to visit England,
this nation so famous for the grandeur of its spirit,
its riches, its knowledge, and its wise laws,” * he
nominated Platof among those who were to com¬
pose his suite.
* These are Mr. Smirnoi’s words, and may be reckoned
Platof s ; and, indeed, the language of the Kozak country, high
and low, is of the same nature. Platof has inspired his coun¬
trymen with the most exalted opinions of Britain and her na¬
tives.
PRESENTS PROW THE PRINCE REGENT. 237
Here Mr. Smirnoi gives a detailed account of
the veteran’s reception in our metropolis, of the
crowds of visitors that thronged upon him, both in
and out of town, of the gracious reception of him
by the King, then Prince llegent, and of the por¬
trait which he caused to be painted, and of the
numerous invitations which he received to dinners,
suppers, balls, concerts, theatres, &c. The old
soldier complained of the actors, who prayed him,
nay almost forced him, to be present at their be¬
nefits, and of his being obliged, in consequence,
to go to two or more spectacles on the same day.
At this, we need not be surprised, for it was a
species of life to which he was unaccustomed, and
besides, he was not an amateur of such amuse¬
ments.
The following circumstances seem to have
highly delighted Platof. “ The Count having
made known his wish to purchase a gold watch of
the best description, his landlord pretended that he
would make enquiry where such a one could be
found. On the following day, Platof received as
a present from the Prince Regent, a splendid
watch with his arms upon it.” “ The Prince hav¬
ing ordered a painting to be taken of the beautiful
white horse on which Platof had not only shown
himself in London, but which had been his com¬
panion in the last campaign, and in all his former
campaigns, the hero, in order to show his attach¬
ment, resolved to part with this animal, and after
238 regent’s portrait. — sword of London.
having had it equipped with all the Kozak trappings,
he presented it to the Prince Regent, who was
highly pleased on the occasion, and ordered this
Donskoi Bucephalus to be kept in his own stables,
and to be taken particular care of.”
The present of the Prince Regent’s portrait, set
in precious stones, appears to have afforded un¬
common pleasure to Platof; and I should suppose
that it is the reason that an engraving of it is found
in his life, with a copy of the original inscription,
as well as a translation of the same. Indeed, every
thing English seems held in more than usual vene¬
ration, and hence both sides of the sword which
was sent to Platof from the city of London, are
also represented among the plates ; and in the ap¬
pendix of Smirnoi’s work we find the letter of the
Duke of Wellington which accompanied it, as well
as the answer of the Ataman.
Platof remained a short time in London after
the departure of the Emperor, and then proceeded
to Warsaw; and, having made arrangements res¬
pecting some Kozak regiments stationed on the
frontiers, he hastened to Petersburg!!. Here he
passed a short time, enjoying the sweets of repose
amidst his friends. But Napoleon’s return from
Elba, put an end to the festivities of the northern
Residence. His Imperial Majesty soon left it, and
ten Kozak regiments, which had returned to the
Don, were immediately put in march to Radzivil,
and as many more were ordered to follow with all
PLATOF AT PETERSBURG!!. — DEPARTURE. 23f)
speed. The Count himself set off to head-quarters
at Vienna. The Russian army advanced, but had
not reached the frontiers of France, when the de¬
cisive battle of Waterloo took place, and, in a
manner, put an end to the war, though the troops
continued their march. Platof followed the Em¬
peror to Paris, and afterwards to Petersburgh.
Having passed eight months in the residence in
181.5-16, he begged leave to return to his native
country. While at the new capital, every atten¬
tion had been shown him. The officers of the
Kozak regiments of life-guards entertained him by
two public dinners, at which he conducted himself
in the most affable manner, speaking to all, en¬
quiring about their relations, and always conclud¬
ing in these words, “ Remember glory and virtue,
and preserve the customs of your fathers.”
The Count received permission to return to the
Don ; and, in a very flattering rescript, in which
His Majesty expresses his obligations to the Ko¬
zaks in the last campaign, he, at the same time,
signifies his intention of seeing both the Ataman
-and them in their own territory.
The Count at length quitted Petersburgh, and
arrived at Moscow, where he passed a few days.
Among his suite, was a fair lady whom the hero
had carried from England, and to whom, during a
short illness in the ancient capital, he was most
attentive. *
-* In the year J 817, Col. Johnson thus expresses himself: —
240 tlatof’s triumphal journey.-ANECDOTE.
According to our guide, Platof hurried to his
native country, thinking that at length time would
be left him to enjoy the monarch’s benevolence,
and the esteem of his compatriots in his domestic
circle; “ but already death stretched out his cold
arms, and the green laurel entwined with his ve¬
nerable grey hairs, was ready to yield its place to
the modest crown of the dead.”
As was naturally to be expected, the Count’s
journey was like a triumphal procession, after he
entered upon his native soil. The noble and the
ignoble crowded to the post stations, and in the
usual manner of the country, while presenting
bread and salt, tendered their congratulations, and
manifested their enthusiasm, and their attachment.
These marks of regard were received by Platof
with the most lively feelings of gratitude, “ and tears
of tenderness, and of heart-felt content uncon¬
sciously trickled from his eyes.”
At the last station from Novo-Tcherkask, he was
met by his own brave Kozaks, with General Gre-
kof at their head, and with the usual oar a, ourci,
(not hourah, as usually written by travellers,) and
with them he then continued his progress. But
at some versts from the town, he ordered a halt
to be made at a small kurgan, or tumulus. Having
u At his country house were three English ladies, one of them
a protegee of his, and the others, her two friends.” Journey
from India to England.
platof’s entry into novo-tcherkask. 241
ascended it, “ lie turned to the crosses glittering
upon the churches, and having made three bows
to the earth, in tears pronounced the following
energetic words. — ‘ Glory to God in the high¬
est: I have served the Tsar and travelled enough :
I am now in my native land : perhaps the Almighty
will permit me to die quietly here, and my bones
to be gathered to my native soil.’ He then took
up a piece of earth and kissed it. At that mo¬
ment, as if expressly for the occasion, a heavy
shower fell, and continued for the space of five
minutes, during which the Count stood without
moving, with his head uncovered, and said that
this circumstance was a very good omen. After the
ceasing of the storm, he bowed on all sides, and
then went on his way.”
At his entry into Novo-Tcherkask, he was met
by the Nakdzanii Ataman , Lieutenant-General
Ilovaiskii, and the authorities of the town, amidst
ouras, and the thunder of artillery. From the
barrier of the town, he proceeded to the Cathedral
of the Ascension, where the clergy awaited him.
Before the principal entrance were placed all
the standards and the regalia of the army. At
the entrance of the Count, Te Dewn was sung,
and the prayer for length of days to the monarch
and his august family being repeated, 101 cannon
were fired. A short sermon was then pronounced,
at the conclusion of which Platof, “with Christian
affection, did homage to the holy images and on
VOL. ir. R
242
labaume’s account
this occasion, before the image of the Mother of
God, he placed the order of St. Ann, which had
belonged to his second son, who had been a major-
general, and who, to universal regret, died in the
flower of his years, and on the dawning of his mi¬
litary glory.” I cannot avoid here quoting the
account of this son of Platof, given by the intel¬
ligent but sometimes romantic Labaume, who says
he took it from the German journals. This au¬
thor states that “ since the opening of the cam¬
paign, the son of the hetman Platof mounted
upon a fine white horse of the Ukraine, was the
faithful companion of his father in arms, and
marching always at the head of the Kozaks, made
himself remarkable to the French advanced guards,
by his signal valourand “ that this young man
was the idol of his father, and the hope of the
warlike nation which ought one day to obey him.”
He is said to have fallen near Vereia in a violent
shock of cavalry, between Prince Poniatovskii and
the Ataman l'latof when, according to Labaume,
“ that veteran flew to assist and to receive the last
testimonial of his tenderness, but on opening his
mouth he gave up the ghost. On the dawn of the
morrow, the chiefs of the Kozaks desired to bestow
the I'ites of sepulture, and the cold hand of the dead
body — which was stretched upon a bear’s-skin —
was saluted by them. They prayed for the repose of
the young warrior’s soul, and removed his mortal
remains from the sight of his father, upon a bier
of platof’s son’s death.
243
covered with cypress. The Kozaks, arranged
around the body in order of battle, observed a
religious silence, and bowed their heads, upon
which sadness was depicted. At the moment the
earth was ready to separate from them for ever
the son of their prince, they fired a volley, and
afterwards holding their horses in their hands,
they defiled near the tomb, with the points of their
lances turned to the earth.”
Will it be believed that the young warrior
whose exploits, death, and funeral are thus so cir¬
cumstantially detailed, died tranquilly in his native
country, surrounded by all his nearest relatives,
with the exception of his father: who, I believe,
was at Petersburgh at the time of the melancholy
event ?
How much is the public imposed upon by the
daily false reports of uninformed writers, who
prefer composing fables, to searching after truth !
No country, no people in the world, has more
cause to complain of the ignorance, the injustice,
and the calumny of writers, than Russia and its
natives; and even yet, the Kozaks have not found
an impartial historian, either in their own or in
foreign countries. It is true, that amusing ac¬
counts, be they true or false, are read with en¬
thusiasm and delight; while important historical
facts scarcely attract regard. In this romantic
and light-reading age, it were to be wished that
real history—which may be defined to be a series
it 2
244
REJOICING AND FESTIVALS.
of facts—should not have its venerable place
usurped by novels altogether romantic, or com¬
pounded of truth and fable; which tend to con¬
found the reader, and to confuse the memory. But
I must return to Platof.
After their exit from the church, the Count,
surrounded by the military, made a short speech
alluding to the last campaign, which he terminated
by exciting them to pray for the health of their
sovereign, Alexander Pavlovitch. The hero then
ordered a rescript — a public testimonial of thanks
from the Emperor — to be read; which being
done, he kissed the Imperial signature, when the
oura rent the air, but was soon drowned by the
roar of the artillery.
The Chieftain having now fulfilled his public
duties, hastened to the grave of his spouse, who
had died in 1812, and shed abundance of tears
over her mortal remains. “ Indeed, so greatly
was he affected by sad recollections, that those
around him were obliged to use some force to
remove him from the cold monument, and almost
to carry him to the house of the Nakdzanii Vois-
kovoi Ataman ; where a magnificent dinner was
prepared. There his painful feelings were dis¬
persed by a joyful meeting with all his family,
after so long a separation ; and the feast was con¬
cluded by an illumination.”
On the following day Platof received a deputation
of the mercantile body of Novo-Tcherkask, who
151I5LE SOCIETY. — IMPROVEMENTS.
245
were appointed to compliment him on his safe
arrival at home, after his victories abroad.
The Count, during seventeen years which he
had been the chief of the country, had not passed
more than three years, all the times of his resi¬
dence put together, at Novo-Tcherkask. But, now,
in a season of greater leisure, he proceeded to
occupy his attention with improvements of the
army, and in the civil administration, as well as
other objects of public benefit. He kept the
festival days of the Imperial family with great
ceremony and magnificence; and on the evening
of the 12th December 1816, the Emperor’s birth¬
day was more than usually signalised, by the pre¬
sentation of a plan to the nobles, of having a
division of the Bible Society at Novo-Tcherkask;
a plan which was realised in the following year,
when 10,000 roubles were sent to the Minister of
Religion and of Public Instruction, Prince Galit¬
sin, the President of the Parent Society at Peters-
burgh. The Ataman was chosen a Vice-president
of the Society, or chief of the Division at Novo-
Tcherkask ; and, during his life, he took the live¬
liest concern in its interests.
Platof also took great interest in forwarding the
erection of Novo-Tcherkask ; and the building of
the cathedral which had been altogether suspended
in consequence of the invasion of 1812, was re¬
commenced, and proceeded rapidly. His time
was devoted to the interests of his country; — he
246 PREPARATIONS POR THE EMPEROR.
endeavoured to have justice done to all in the
tribunals, — he assisted the poor, — he gave every
encouragement to the gymnasium,—and with his
own hands he distributed prizes to the scholars;
and in the year 1817, he had the first printing-
office erected in the town. The improvement of
the Kozak horse-artillery excited his particular
attention; and he had a camp formed near the
town, that he might be able often to superintend
their manoeuvres.
The old veteran awaited the arrival of the
Emperor from St. Petersburgh with impatience,
and made all preparations to receive him in a
magnificent manner. Two triumphal gates were
erected, as already told, one at each end of Novo-
Tcherkask : but alas! when His Majesty passed
under them, Platof was no more. Though the
Ataman’s health was but very indifferent, the
expectation of seeing Alexander in his favourite
town, renovated his strength, and animated him
with new vigour. He was especially anxious that
both the civil and military state of the Kozaks
might be such as to satisfy his sovereign. In the
meantime, our hero was highly gratified by the
visit of the Grand Duke Michail Pavlovitch, who
arrived on the 14th September in the country of
the Kozaks, and was received at every station
with all due honour, as well as on the 16th at Novo-
Tcherkask. The ceremonies which took place
VISIT OV THE GREAT DUKE.—MISHKIN. 24-7
on the 17 th and 18th, are minutely detailed by
Mr. Smirnoi; more especially those at Mishkin.
Platof himself standing at the entrance, and
presenting bread and salt, (after the custom of
Russia,) received the Imperial visitor.
As the reader may be curious to know some¬
thing of the above-named estate of Count Platof, 1
have given a view of it at the head of this chapter:
and shall now add a few words in explanation.
Mishkin, formerly Platof’s country seat, is si¬
tuated upon the banks of the river Aksai, at the
distance of two miles from Novo-Tcherkask. The
site is reckoned very fine by the natives ; but,
unfortunately, the environs are barren. Art has
greatly ornamented its immediate vicinity, and it
has a respectable appearance, as may be seen by
looking at the vignette. The whole establishment,
however, did not correspond with the ideas I had
formed of the princely residence .of the Ataman
of the Don Kozaks.
Toward the close of the year 1817, Platof’s
strength greatly failed; but he did not wish it to
be believed that his end was approaching. He
gave no respite to his mind, and continued his
improvements civil and military. He had not
patience to await the arrival of the Emperor, and
took the resolution, in the month of November
1817 , of going to Moscow, where His Imperial
Majesty then held his court. He sent an adjutant
to that capital to ask permission for this visit; and
r 4
248 PLATOF’s DEPARTURE FOR MOSCOW.— HIS DEATH
having received it, lie made preparations for setting
off with the first snow-roads, so as to he there on
the 12th of December, to share the festival of the
Emperor’s birthday. On account of some family
arrangements, he set out for another estate near
Taganrog. Here he caught cold, and his weak¬
ness augmented. Soon afterwards a stroke of
apoplexy followed, and on the 3d of January 1818,
this distinguished hero expired; or, in the words
of his biographer, “ he concealed himself in
eternity!”
The following remarks of Mr. Smirnoi, with
respect to Platof, meet my unqualified approba¬
tion, being the language of all ranks of the Kozaks
of the Don, from one end of their territory to the
other. “ The army lost in him a hero, whose name
is famous throughout all the countries of the
globe: — his country has to weep the departure
of a zealous son:—the inhabitants of the Don
have to lament a generous chieftain :—and the un¬
fortunate and the poor have to regret a protector
and a father.”
Platof’s destiny was fixed. The day so eagerly
expected, when he was to greet his sovereign at
the triumphal gates, or to receive new tokens of
Imperial regard, was never to dawn; yet this
expectation had been long his darling delight, and
occupied some of his last moments. What now
would have availed his terrestrial distinctions; —
his honours, and his crosses; his brilliants and
PLATOF’s CHARACTER.-HIS FAILINGS. 249
his swords; — imperial and royal, national and
civic, testimonies of esteem for his arduous ser¬
vices and military prowess; if there had been
no principle of virtue, no sense of religion, no
foretaste of eternity, and no expectation of a happy
immortality ? However superstitious may have
been the religion of Platdf, we must admire his
open attachment to its ceremonies, and on all oc¬
casions, till the day of his death. He presented a
brilliant example to adventurers in the career of
military glory. His life showed that true heroism
and religion never shine so conspicuously as when
they go hand-in-hand to battle; are united toge¬
ther in civil life; or are associated at the awful,
the sublime departure of the soul to Him who
gave and who takes away.
Platof had his failings, but they were concealed
by his virtues during life; and in the silence of
death, they may be overlooked.
The mortal remains of Platof were transported
to his house at Mishkin, and were afterwards bu-
f
ried with all the military honours which his rank
and character demanded, in the church-yard of the
unfinished cathedral of the Ascension, at Novo-
Tcherkask. Thus his bones, according to his wish,
are gathered together in his natal soil, in the town
which he founded, and are surrounded by a num¬
ber of members of his family who had preceded
him in the path of death.
I cannot but regret that no monument, deserv-
250 platof’s monument.
ing that name, lias been erected over the grave of
Platof. It reflects disgrace on Russia, and more
especially on the territory of the Don Kozaks, that
a paltry square stone edifice, elevated but a few
feet above the earth, is the only testimonial, the
only remembrancer, of the brave and exemplary
Platof) which meets the traveller’s eye. While on
the spot, such were my feelings, but it is to be
hoped that the subscription then talked of, for the
purpose of raising a pyramid to a man who rose
from the lowest rank to the highest distinction in
his country merely by his own merit, has ere this
been carried into effect. The best monument of
Platof) however, is to be found in the hearts of his
countrymen, and in the records of his deeds. The
work of Mr. Smirnoi will be read by future ages,
when monuments yet to be erected shall have
crumbled into dust.
CHAR XX.
CONDUCT OF PLATOF-ANECDOTE. — HIS RELIGIOUS PRIN¬
CIPLES.— CURIOUS ANECDOTE.— HIS WEAKNESS. — DISLIKES
EPISTOLARY CORRESPONDENCE.—ANECDOTE.—HIS KINDNESS
AND HOSPITALITY TO BRITISH TRAVELLERS.-HIS LIBERAL¬
ITY.— HIS STYLE OF LIVING.— STORIES RESPECTING HIS
DAUGHTER AND HER DOWRY.—ANECDOTE. — PLATOF’s BEHA¬
VIOUR IN SOCIETY.—ALWAYS A TRUE KOZAK.—HIS DROLLERY.
— HIS AMUSEMENTS.-ANECDOTE.—HIS SUPERSTITION.— HIS
MODE OF LIFE.—HIS RECEPTION OF GUESTS.— HIS POVERTY.
HIS GENERAL CHARACTER. — HIS PORTRAIT AND PERSON.—
HIS FUNERAL SERMON.—ELEGANT EXTRACTS FROM IT.—
PLATOF’s MARRIAGE.-HIS FAMILY. — HIS DEBTS AND PRO¬
PERTY.—NORTHERN LITERATURE.—DEPARTURE FROM NOVO-
TCHERKASK.—NAKTSHIVAN.—TAGANROG.—DESCRIPTION.—
POPULATION.—COMMERCE.—QUARANTINE.—DEPARTURE FOR
NIJNI-NOVGOROD.
252
CONDUCT OF 1’LATOF.
.Having, in the preceding chapter, carried the
reader along with me over the principal events of
Platof’s public life, I shall now devote particular
attention to the private character of that great
chieftain. *
“ All Russia, all Europe, all the world, know
Platof as a hero,” says Mr. Smirnoi, “ but few
know his general character.” We are informed,
“ that from his birth he was passionate; but that
his fury was moderated by a sound and experienced
mind ;” — “ that during his whole life he never
brought any one into danger;”—“ that in the course
of the seventeen years the army was confided to
him, he was not the cause of the misfortune of a
single individual of inferior rank —and “that his
hand always shook when he signed the severe sen¬
tence of an unfortunate man.” — “ It must not be
concluded, however, that he was a weak com¬
mander ; on the contrary, having always been strict
to himself and to his family, he showed himself
likewise so to his inferiors. No failure of duty, no
important transgression was passed without exa¬
mination. But he understood how to examine
and how to punish, like a true father.” He ge¬
nerally repeated, “ that there was nothing easier
in the world than to do wrong, nothing more dif-
* As we have already seen, our hero was born on the 6th of
August, 1751, and died on the 3d of January 1818. The dura¬
tion of his life was therefore sixty-six and a half years.
ANECDOTE.
253
ficult than to do good;” — “that in this world
there is no perfection, which belongs to the Creator
alone— and other such moral sayings. “ The
honour and fame of the army were dear to him as
his own.” Officers he would thus address : “ What
rank have you ? — What, an officer of the army of
the Don!—to whom does honour belong, when
thou rejoicest not at thy famous name, when
thou forgettest God, father, mother, wife, or chil¬
dren? Did thy progenitors teach thee thus? For
this dost thou behold upon thyself tokens of the
monarch’s kindness (alluding to crosses and orders),
or ought I always to answer for you all? Be
ashamed, sir, it is necessary to preserve honour in
all things, and to fear God.” * Platof treated all
ranks with condescension, and even with famili¬
arity, in his youngest years, as well as in the pride
of his career. Gratitude seems to have been a
strong principle in him, for he preserved his at¬
tachment unchangeable toward those who had
obliged him in his youth, and eagerly sought the
means of repaying their kindness. He must have
had a very retentive memory, since “ On the Don,
he not only knew in detail the talents of every
general, but could name, without error, all the
staff and superior officers of about 40,000 troops,
and even many of the Kozaks. He knew whom
to esteem, to approve, and to encourage;” and
* Vide p. 232. of this volume. Note.
254
ANECDOTE.
those deserving of it bore marks of his approbation.
He seldom or never erred in his choice of offi¬
cers. He had an excellent custom of praising the
common Kozaks for the good and zealous fulfil¬
ment of their duties. He ordered those who had
so distinguished themselves to be presented to him,
and generally asked, in the most affable manner,
what was their own and their father’s names. Hav¬
ing received an answer, as to the name of the father,
he often remembered the name of the regiment in
which he had served, and on such an occasion,
turning to those around him, he said, “ Behold,
gentlemen, 1 will tell you *, I well remember his
father ; he was a very brave Kozak, and like my¬
self, robust; I served with him in the Turkish
campaign, and he did many important actions.
Know, I will tell you, he partly resembles him,
even in his gait. Now I am glad : God bless the
Colonel, that he named him for this commission ;
from him I expect all that is good.” Then turn¬
ing to the Kozak, “ Thou art the conductor of the
Kurmonastinskoi station ?” and being answered in
the affirmative ; — “ So I remember. Do you know,
gentlemen, that I even remember their house ; his
father was respected in the station. It happened
that I once rode there, and scarcely remained any
time with them ; I saw your house,” — again turn-
* I will iell you, was a proverbial expression of the Count’s
in every conversation, and was by far too often repeated.
ANECDOTE.
ing to the Kozak ; — “ having entered the stanitsa,
and having ascended the little hill upon the left in
the cross-street, this, well, well I remember; they
are even, I will tell you, good economists; tell me,
does thy mother at least live, good old woman ;
and is there not some one besides in the family ?
It is time for thee to marry. I am happy to assist
such punctual persons, and who have finished their
time of service; to say nothing of bravery, it
would be shameful for a Kozak not to be brave,
and it is necessary to endeavour even more. What
thinkest thou? Now God bless thee also: thanks
from me to the colonel: endeavour in future to
conduct thyself thus — increase confidence ; yes,
and I will look further after thy conduct; — thus,
perhaps, I will advance thee: pray God for our
gracious Batushka *, the Emperor.” And when
the Kozak was elated with joy, making his obei¬
sance to his chief— his father, he only wished to
depart, when the Count detained him with a new
question: “Dost thou drink vodtlci?” and if he
received a negative answer, he generally continued
thus: “ that is very well, I will tell you; — yet it
is necessary for a Don Kozak, by little and little,
to accustom himself: there happen bad weather,
and snow-storms; and the Donskoi Kozak is always
upon his horse, and in the field: — it sometimes
* Batushka means grandfather, literally; but is also a term
of the highest compliment bestowed on those we revere.
2.50 platof’s religious principles.
happens that he is not like himself; there, I will
tell you, the best medicine is a small glass of some¬
thing warm, and especially of spirits with mustard.
Stop, I will treat thee with wine.” Then, having
called for wine, he presented it with his own hands.
In this manner Platof gained the hearts of the
lower classes; — “ he, as it were, electrified them,
and they were ready to sacrifice their lives for him;
they rejoiced both amidst fire and water.” Every
Kozak could appear before him, and speak his mind
freely.
Platof was well acquainted with the customs
and the manners of the mountain tribes of the
Caucasus, as well as of the Tartars and the
Kalmucks domiciliated on the territory of the
Don. When among them, it is said that he par¬
took of their fare, even of their peculiar dishes
and liquors. As is known by experience, this is
the sure way to gain the confidence and esteem of
the natives in every quarter of the globe.
The Ataman was penetrating, honourable, and
humane, always ready to help the orphan, the
poor, and the oppressed. His alms he distributed
secretly. “ Ostentatious vanity,” said he, “ is
against God.”
The firm preservation of the laws of the true
faith was to him the most sacred duty. He evinced
the greatest esteem for holy things. He allowed
no opportunity to escape where he could show his
fervour in the temples of God, or his zeal in pro-
CURIOUS ANECDOTE. 257
platof’s WEAKNESS.
moting charitable institutions. An instance of
his charity is mentioned by his biographer. He
had been informed, that in one of the monasteries
at Pscof, an hospital for the wounded had been
formed during the late campaign of 1812, and on
his return to Petersburgh, he forwarded a thou¬
sand roubles to assist the institution.
Platof’s “ devotion and veneration to the mo¬
narch, and to all the Imperial family, were without
bounds. Every word, every Imperial favour, Jilled
him with ecstasy .” In this he manifested some¬
thing ignoble, and unbecomingly slavish toward
superiors ; an error not easily to be avoided in a
despotic country like Russia, where rank is more
generally and eagerly sought after than scientific
superiority or literary distinction, than virtue,
morality, or even religion. *
The following account, while it makes known a
curious practice, is in coincidence with the pre¬
ceding remark, and I regret, for our hero’s cha¬
racter, that it should ever have seen the light. “ In
the reign of Catharine II., there existed a custom,
as a token of the monarch’s benevolence to the
Voiskovoi Ataman of the forces of the Don, of
making a present annually to his spouse of those
clothes with which Her Majesty had been dressed
on the first day of the year. Although Platof did
not hold that station, yet by his eminent services
* Vide Character of the Russians, p.xii.
-S
VOL. II.
258
CURIOUS ANECDOTE.
he had the happiness of being known and distin¬
guished by the Empress; and at various times
lie received marks of her benevolence. Whether
by the instigation of his spouse, or through his
own wish to gratify her by a monarchical favour
from the sovereign, which was then allowed only
to the spouse of the Ataman of the Don, he re¬
solved to endeavour to procure this favour for
himself, by means of individuals who were placed
about Her Majesty. But he was refused, and no
doubt without the knowledge of the Empress.
From this he inferred that the Empress was dis¬
affected towards him, an idea which threw him
into such deep affliction, that he soon became se¬
riously ill, and the consequences might have been
fatal, if his friend, the late Count Valerian Zubof
had not set the affair right. Having heard of
Platof’s affliction and disease, without informing
him, that nobleman made them known, as well as
their cause, to the Empress. The great Catharine
received the news with feeling, and moreover ma¬
nifested her anger at those who had dared; without
her knowledge, to refuse the object of Platof’s
prayer, and at the same time ordered the clothes
to be sent to his spouse. This altogether unex¬
pected favour of the monarch soon recovered Platof’s
health, and restored his drooping spirit. He could
not divine to whom he was indebted for procuring
this distinguished kindness of the Empress, and it
was not till long after that he knew who was its
CURIOUS ANECDOTE.
259
true author. These clothes of Catharine are still
preserved in Platof* s family, as well as other va¬
luable presents from the same monarch. Among
them is a silver twenty-five kopeek-piece, which
was presented to him on the following occasion,
by the present Dowager Empress.- “ During his
residence at Petersburgh, he had sometimes the
happiness to form one of a party at boston. It
once happened, that he won six roubles from the
Empress, and that she paid him with a five rouble
note and the piece of silver mentioned. Platof
kissed the last, saying to those around him. ‘ This
tchetvertdk * received from the hand of our Mci-
tushka t, the Empress, my benefactress, will long
be preserved, and will pass to my latest successors,
who will remember what is suitable to a free sub¬
ject, and condescending benevolence in a great
monarch.’”
“ In his occupations with the affairs of the ser¬
vice, Platof was extremely circumspect and atten¬
tive. But having passed the greatest part of his
life in the field, in the midst of camps and of
bivouacks, he felt some reluctance at epistolary
* The fourth part of a silver rouble, nearly the size of a
shilling.
f Matusbka, grandmother, or a term of familiarity only used
when great reverence is intended. Bdtushka and M&tushka are
the kindest appellations applied to the Emperor and the Em¬
press. They are often used in that sense by the peasants.
When they have a kind master or mistress, they also apply
these terms to them. Vide note, p. 255 . of this Volume.
s 2
£60 PLATOF DISLIKES EPISTOLARY CORRESPONDENCE.
correspondence.” He often said, that it would be
easier for him to gain two or three victories, than
to occupy himself with civil affairs, which gave
him the vertigo. Yet when he did enter upon this
kind of business, he is said to have performed it
with accuracy and perseverance, and, as we shall
see hereafter, to have devoted much time to his
civil duties.
Not having seen Napoleon, Platof loved neither
his generals nor his ministers ; he especially disliked
Caulincourt, who was the Ex-emperor’s ambassa¬
dor at the St. Petersburgh court. He, with other
Russian generals, sometimes dined at his house
by invitation. Caulincourt gave a dinner on the
occasion of having received from Paris a full-length
portrait of Napoleon. Platof was asked to the
fete. He arrived with the late Prince Barclay De
Tolli, who was then minister of war. When they
entered the room in which the portrait was placed,
the Count having looked at it, as if unwillingly,
called out loud enough, “ That is painted in joke.” *
The minister of war, by a significant look, in¬
stantly put him in mind of his carelessness, and he
was silent. A servant, who had overheard Platof,
immediately informed Caulincourt, and apparently
others, who came and asked while smiling, “ Is it
painted as a hoax ? ” But the Count affected not
* By this I suppose was meant, that the portrait greatly
flattered Napoleon.
to understand them, and enquired what they meant.
Caulincourt was so much hurt by this remark,
that he addressed himself to the Emperor. When
His Majesty asked Platof about the matter, he
made the following frank and faithful reply.
“ Gosudar (Sovereign)! before God, and before
you, nothing is concealed by me. What is to be
done ? Gosudar, politics I know not, and those
words as it were stole from my tongue. I would
wish to know, how Mr. Caulincourt did not alto¬
gether abjure my society, and deliver me from
superfluous honour by his invitations. I am not
accustomed to French meats; stchi and kasha *
form our soldier’s food.” From this time, Cau¬
lincourt ceased to invite Platof to his dinners ; but
at Paris they had a peculiar kind of interview.
There, not only Caulincourt himself renewed his
acquaintance with him, but recommended him also
to Marshal Ney. This happened during his first
sejour at Paris, on the balcony of the palace of the
Bourbons, where the Emperor was pleased to have
his residence, t
In order to testily unequivocally his gratitude
* Stchi is cabbage-soup, and kasha is boiled millet mixed
with butter or oil, during the fasts. Vide Character of the
Russians, p. 482.
t This slavish mode is always used by inferiors in Russia,
when speaking of superiors, lords, and masters. Instead of
saying, “ When did our master arrive ? — Where did he reside
in Moscow ? ” — they say “ When did our master please to ar¬
rive? — Where did our lord choose to reside ? ”
262 platof’s kindness and hospitality
to England for his kind reception in 1814, Platof
endeavoured to return it to British travellers who
passed through the country of the Don Kozaks.
He received all of them who were, during his last
residence, at Novo-Tcherkask, with distinguished
regard. * “He treated them as well as possible,
and even anticipated their wishes. In a word,
he endeavoured to inspire them with reverence
for the Russian nation, and the Donskoi Kozaks.
Many well-known Englishmen arriving from India
or from Persia, where they had been travelling
with their baggage on horseback, required equi¬
pages. The Count, as soon as he knew that they
were about to bargain, immediately anticipated
them, paid the money, and sent the vehicle to
them, as if it had been his own ; and generally did
not permit them to be at any expence in his
country.”
Colonel Johnson had desired an equipage to be
bought for him at 2,000 roubles. The same even¬
ing Count Platof made him and his party a visit,
and drank tea with them. “ In the conversation,”
* In a note are enumerated the visitors who had been at
Count Platof’s, and as it gives an idea of the taste in a military
country of bestowing military titles, I shall copy it. It runs
thus, “ Major Chatterton y Colonel Beaumont , Captains Strachey ,
Porter , Salter , and Colonel and Chevalier Johnson” As a man
is nothing without some apparent rank, he must assume a title,
or if he do not, the natives will give him one according to their
ideas of his station in life ; of this they judge by his appearance,
his equipage, his servants, &c.
TO BRITISH TRAVELLERS.
268
says the Colonel, “ I accidentally mentioned that
his secretary had had the kindness to assist us in
looking out for a carriage; and had met with an
excellent one, nearly new, which we had requested
him to purchase for us. I had imagined that the
Count would be pleased on hearing that this good
office had been performed towards us: but, on
the contrary, he declared, that the carriage in
which he had come should be given to us, and
begged our acceptance of it for his sake, hoping
that we would keep it in remembrance of him.
I endeavoured to decline accepting this present in
every possible way. Mr. Grassman, who inter¬
preted for us with the Count respecting our in¬
tended purchase, mentioned to him the person to
whom the carriage belonged; but the Count, ad¬
dressing him in the Russian language, enjoined
him, as he valued his friendship, not to alloxv us
to purchase any thing here ; saying, ‘ These Eng¬
lishmen will go away, but you will remain behind;
if they buy any carriage, you shall never see my
face again: you must tell them it is a mistake,
and the carriage cannot be sold. I shall send
them one of mine. Now,’ continued he, ‘ as
you value my support, say nothing of this until
they have my carriage.’ The carriage was ac¬
cordingly sent; and by the Count’s orders was
also stored with provisions, wine, game, and even
fruit, packed in large wide-mouthed bottles !
“ The frank, open, and unrestrained hospitality
s 4.
204 platof’s kindness and hospitality
of this veteran warrior could not fail to inspire us
with the warmest feelings of respect. We had
come upon him, as it were, without formal intro¬
duction and with no other claim to his notice,
than that of our being British officers; and we
were received on the footing of friends who had
been long acquainted. That qualification of being
British officers, alone, seemed a sufficient passport
to his regard; and he appeared happy in having
an opportunity to testify his sincere friendship for
a nation which had greeted him with so many
expressions of esteem and admiration. — It was
very easy to see that Count Platof really delighted
to speak of England: and that his encomiums
were not the mere dictates of courtesy, but flowed
spontaneously from the heart.” t
I cannot avoid also alluding to the high strain
in which Sir R. K. Porter speaks of Platof j although
that author is generally charged with a degree of
flattery towards persons in high rank and eminent
situations. “ All Europe,” says he, “ has heard
of him as a hero ; but we must visit his country
to know him as he is, — the father of his people,
* This is certainly not quite correct; for tire Colonel tells
us, in another part of his work, that he received an introductory
letter from General Yermolof. This letter now lies before m ?
in print, in the Life of Platof; and it is clear, that the Colonel
was recommended in very handsome terms.
f A Journey from India to England, See . by Lieutenant-
Colonel John Johnson, C. 13. p.314. 1818.
TO BRITISH TRAVELLERS.
2()5
as well as their general. — He expressed, in the
most enthusiastic language, his sense of the atten¬
tions bestowed on him by all ranks of persons
during his stay in England in the year 1814 ; he
said, that, independently of private respect for
individuals, he must always consider himself for¬
tunate, when circumstances brought any English¬
man into the Donskoy country.” *
We were treated in the most polite and affable
manner by the present Ataman, General Ilovaiskii.
We dined with him, after having had the use of
his carriage. At our departure, we naturally
thanked him for his kindness. This drew forth a
compliment to ourselves ; but what was of more
consequence, to the British nation. “ Gentlemen,”
he replied, “ my late worthy and distinguished
predecessor, Count Platof) after his visit to London
in 1814, only ceased to speak with the highest
encomiums, and the most enthusiastic feelings of
gratitude to the British nation, when he ceased to
exist. I am sorry at your short stay at Novo-
Tcherkask, as it prevents me showing you those
attentions which Platof, had he been in life, would
gladly have done.” He then proceeded to say,
that he should be happy on all future occasions,
in as far as in him lay, to replace Platof in his at¬
tentions to Britons, not only in order to diminish
the load of debt under which the Count still lay in
* Travels in Georgia, Persia, Armenia, &c. by Sir K. K
Porter, vol. i. p. 26. 1821.
£()6 platof’s liberality and style of living.
that respect; but also to have an opportunity of
expressing his own sentiments; which, founded
upon a more limited experience, completely coin¬
cided with the Count’s.
“ Interest was altogether foreign to the heart of
Platof. In his accounts it is not enough to say
that he was not narrow: he was liberal even to
superfluity. He conducted himself not according
to his circumstances, but consistently with his high
rank, of which he himself was the ornament. He
liked every where to show himself a real grandee
(nastoyastckii Barin'). Trifling affairs could not
occupy him ; he even despised them; although
he well knew that attention to them might assist
his moderate situation: but he could not change
himself; because he lived not for himself, but for
the service. It often happened, that he had no
more than 300 or 400 roubles in the house; but
the exterior changed not: he continued to live
like a millionaire (this word is adopted in Russ).
He could not even have left Petersburgh the last
time he was there for want of money, if the Em¬
peror had not graciously allowed him to receive a
loan for four years, from the Imperial Bank, of
100,000 roubles.” Thus we see how unjust and
ill-founded were the conclusions of the public.
Many reckoned he was worth millions: but his
death revealed too faithfully, “ that to his heirs, he
left 300,000 roubles of debt, — and only taco thou¬
sand souls ’without land: because, as is well known,
pEatof’s daughter and HER DOWRY. 267
the land of the Don territory belongs, in common,
to the whole forces, and cannot be appropriated
for the uses of the possessors.”
I well remember, and my readers will also recall
to mind, the various reports which were in circu¬
lation in this metropolis during the campaign of
1812-13. The veteran was said to have offered
his daughter in marriage, and her weight of gold
as her dowry, to the individual who should deliver
to him the conqueror of Europe, Napoleon, dead
or alive. This fable, under a modification, even
found a place in a justly celebrated review.
There, it is said, that “ the veteran Platof, whose
blood had been so often shed in the defence of
Russia on former occasions, now showed his ar¬
dour for the cause in which he was engaged, by
promising his daughter, and 200,000 roubles, to
the hero who shoidd rid the world of the in¬
vader.” * The said lady was painted in the bright¬
est colours of fancy, and her portrait caught the
attention of the passers by, in the shop-windows
of London and Edinburgh, and even in the pro¬
vincial towns of our island. She was beautiful,
her father was a hero, and riches abounded at
N6vo-Tcherkask. But alas! for the Ataman’s suc¬
cessors, there was no foundation for such reports :
Platof was never rich, I believe he was in difficulty,
if not in debt; and, what is more extraordinary,
* Quarterly Review, vol. viii. p. 459.
2G8 ANECDOTE.-I'I.ATOF’s BEHAVIOUR IN SOCIETY.
lie had no daughter unmarried in 1812. But such
a report, though an imposition, was congenial to
the general feeling of the British nation at the
time, and thus it met with ready belief. When
we lately had the pleasure of dining at the table of
Platof’s successor, I repeated the story as told
above, and in the language of the country, so that
all present understood. The recital was followed
by bursts of laughter; at the cessation of which,
one of his best friends told us, that it was indeed a
great mistake. “ Platofj” said he, “was always
poor, because he was always liberal; and had he
had a daughter to marry in 1812, instead of thou¬
sands of roubles, or her weight of gold, if he could
have given the weight of one of her ears of that
metal in dowry, it was his utmost! ”
“ Platof was of a very gay character, and liked
society, and, above all, friendly conversations; but
a distracted and noisy life, was altogether opposite
to his turn of mind; and, besides, he reckoned it
dangerous for his health. In his communications
with the ladies he was eminently polite, attentive,
respectful and affable. He had a thousand means
of engaging them, and thus of flattering their
weakness ; such as foretelling the future by cards,
explaining dreams, playing at boston, and other
games, &c. &c. — In a word, he understood how
to conduct himself properly in every society. Of
the delicacy and etiquette of the fashionable world
he was not ignorant. He knew all; remembered
A TRUE KOZAK.—DROLLERY. — AMUSEMENTS. 2fi9
all; but he adopted the usages of society in a man¬
ner peculiar to himselfj always wishing to show
himself in the character of a true Kozak.”
His drollery was not of the most elevated descrip¬
tion. He often purposely pronounced words im¬
properly : thus, instead of Warsaw, he said Arsaw !
of Talleyrand, Teilaran, &c. In consequence of
these peculiarities, many were deceived at the first
meeting, and concluded that he was only famous
as a soldier, and thought not of seeking any other
qualifications. But, if we can trust his biographer’s
judgment, in Platof were associated “ the talents of
an illustrious soldier, of a penetrating politician,
and of an agreeable civilian.” Many individuals
who saw him in London will no doubt have their
own opinion as to this praise.
During his residence upon the Don, Platof’s
leisure was occupied in fishing, hunting, and atten¬
tion to his stud and cattle, of which he was an ama¬
teur. He, according to the custom of his coun¬
trymen (who are greatly employed in fishing),
passed whole days in this amusement, and ordered
fish-soup to be made for him under some straw-hut
in the field, in which he was also wont to address
the young Kozaks of his suite, and animate their
ardent minds to the pursuit of virtue and of military
fame. He spoke to them in such terms as these :
“ Fishing and hunting are more agreeable to me
than the most splendid ball. We were not born to
walk in parks, nor to sit upon velvet cushions;
270 ANECDOTE. -PLATOF’s SUPERSTITION.
tliere we might forget the profession for which we
were born. It is our business to walk in the fields,
and through marshes, and to sit in straw-huts, and,
what is better, under the open canopy of heaven,
so that the ardent heat of the sun, and all kinds of
bad weather, may never prove oppressive to us.”
With all his uncommon mind, the Count was
somewhat superstitious. He believed in presenti¬
ments and dreams, which, as he said, seldom de¬
ceived him. He related, that before the death of
Prince Potyemkin, he had a dream, which was its
manifest presage. His deliverance from confine¬
ment in the reign of Paul, and his appointment as
Ataman in the time of Alexander, he likewise di¬
vined in his dreams. “ By the brilliancy of the
stars, by the progress of the moon, and by the
changes in the atmosphere, he foretold the weather
a week in advance ;” and, according to Mr. Smir-
noi, his presages were often accurate. “ He said,
that by the stars God informed us where to go;
and actually the Kozaks, instructed by him, confirm¬
ed this; they knew not at all the places upon the
maps, nor the language of those countries through
which they passed, yet they every where sought
out strange towns and villages, merely marked by
the signs how they lay, from the east and west, the
north and south.”
The Count had learned to pass whole nights
without sleep, and afterwards to sit up late with
Prince Potyemkin. He could not lie down to
271
l’LATOP’S mode of life.
sleep till four or five o’clock in the morning, and
he awoke at eight o’clock. But that he might
have some repose for his body at least, he some¬
times remained in bed till ten or eleven o’clock,
when affairs did not require his presence. But
these hours did not pass in inactivity, for in bed he
thought of the affairs in which he was engaged,
and made arrangements for the day’s occupation.
He frequently called the officers to him, and gave
them various commissions to execute. When he
rose from bed, his first thoughts were turned to God;
he always worshipped with earnestness. He then
received the police-master of Novo-Tcherkask, and
after him other officers, according to their turn.
“ His morning occupations he did not finish before
five o’clock p. m. and at six o’clock he sat down to
dinner, not having taken even a lunch.” At his
table there was always society, which consisted of
visitors and travellers, and the inmates of his house.
He was fond of conversation, and therefore re¬
mained at table at least four hours. He esteemed
this the most agreeable time of the day, and even
called it a luxury. He liked to relate curious
anecdotes, and he himself engrossed the greater
part of the conversation. But Platof was not dis¬
pleased if any one asked him to give an opportu¬
nity of speaking. His harangues generally endured
so long, that many were unable to remain at table,
and quietly withdrew. After dinner, but upon
the same table, tea was served on a silver service.
pi.atof’s rf.ception of guests.
The Count did not like to drink coffee, and only
used it in the morning. Of tea he repeated these
words— “ It, I will tell you, is very healthful, and
liquefies the blood, but coffee thickens it.” After
dinner ( 2 . e. about ten or eleven o’clock, yr. ?«.) he
took no more than an hour’s repose; he then re¬
commenced his duties, which were seldom finished
before two o’clock in the morning; but, as he
could not yet sleep, he passed a couple or more
hours with some favourite individual of his suite,
and the rest of the twenty-four hours were devoted
to sleep.
In the reception of guests, an important and highly
valued quality in the Russian empire, which is dig¬
nified by the appellation of Gostopriemstvo , Platof
was distinguished. Nothing was thought too dear
for their entertainment. At his parties he made no
distinction of persons ; all were treated alike. Be¬
sides sumptuous ceremonial dinners on festivals,
there were three tables at his house every day, as
he always had guests with him. * He also support¬
ed all his suite, whether upon the Don, in the capi¬
tals of Russia, or in foreign countries. Strangers
he frequently accommodated in his house; and,
when that was inconvenient, quarters were ordered,
* The value of Gostopriemstvo is here sufficient!}' explained.
Good dinners, plenty of wine, and a welcome reception, be the
individual ever so ignorant or uncultivated, will soon make him
notorious, and he will have plenty of guests.
1‘I.ATOF’s POVERTY.—CHARACTER.—PORTRAIT. ‘17 O
and kitchens, provisions and equipages, were pro¬
vided for them.
After these details, and bearing in mind that his
revenues were never great, need we be surprised
that Platof was always poor ?
The veteran is said to have taught his chil¬
dren to be true Christians, to be faithful to their
sovereign and their country, and to spend little by
giving them little. He was more strict with his
relations than with strangers. He was the father
of his peasants, and rejoiced, even to tears, at their
good fortune. He would not displace his stewards,
when a relation pointed out that they received
more revenue than he himself, as already recorded in
a curious anecdote. * “ He,” says his biographer,
“ was terrible in battle to the enemies of his coun¬
try ; in peace he was a distinguished chief and citi¬
zen, an esteemed parent, a tender and attentive
father, a true friend, and a benevolent master and
commander.” That this is not the empty language
of posthumous flattery, every onemustbe convinced
who visits the country of the Kozaks of the Don.
“ Platof was of tall stature ; his hair was dark-
coloured ; his eyes were greyish-blue and pene¬
trating; his physiognomy was agreeable; his de¬
meanour was affable; his person was upright and
well built; his gait was easy; and his exterior, in
toto, was majestic.”
* Vide p. 136. Vol. I.
von. ii. t
274 FUNERAL SERMON.-ELEGANT EXTRACTS.
What may be called the funeral sermon of Platof,
was delivered, on the 13 th of January 1818 , in the
Donskoi monastery at Moscow, by the eminent
archimandrite, Eugenius. My limits merely allow
me to quote a few sentences from this sermon,
which are equally illustrative of Russian eloquence,
and of the character of the hero of our narrative.
The divine thus begins : “ From the smooth flow¬
ing Don, the news fly like lightning, and strike
like thunder : — Platof is dead! How rapidly the
glory of his deeds spreads from mouth to mouth!
how swiftly, and how far, from village to village,
from town to town, and from kingdom to king¬
dom, is conveyed the sad intelligence:—Platof is
dead!
“ The military are in despair; the citizens are
sorrowful; the army of the Don is penetrated with
affliction, is oppressed with sighs, is bathed in
tears. All Russia is grieved at the loss of a great
hero, so terrible to her enemies.”
“ No! our hero did not found his immortal
deeds upon earth. Religion was the spirit of all
his virtues, and of all his combats. He was faith¬
ful to the monarch, because he was faithful to the
Lord: he was devoted to his terrestrial country,
because he never allowed a heavenly country to
escape from his thoughts : he was the father of the
people confided to his care, because he breathed the
spirit of his heavenly Father : he feared not death,
PI.ATOF’s MARRIAGE.— HIS FAMILY. 275
because he felt with St. Paul, ‘ For vie to live is
Christ, and to die is gain.* ” *
“ Great God! who could stand before the se¬
verity of thy judgment 5 We pray tjiee, by the
blood of thy well-beloved Son, do not enter into
judgment with thy servant; cover him with thy
mercy$ and let our Abraham dwell in Abraham’s
bosom.”
Mr. Smirnoi gives no account of Platof’s mar¬
riage, nor does he inform us who his wife was. We
learn, however, that her name was Martha Dmi¬
trievna, that she was a widow, and had at least two
children when the Ataman married her, and that
she died in the year 1812. Judging from the age
of Platof’s children, it is probable that he was mar¬
ried about the year 1790.
The following information was derived from Co¬
lonel Nozikomof.
Count Platof had three sons and four daughters.
The eldest son was married, and has left behind
him one son and one daughter. To these children,
Platof bequeathed 900 souls — their father’s por¬
tion. The widow r is still living, and the son is
now a colonel, and bears the name of Matvei Ivan-
ovitch, the same as his grandfather, and has the
title of count, and his sister that of countess. The
second son of the Ataman, as we have already
seen, was a major-general in the army, and distin-
* Phil. i. 21.
27O pi.atof’s famjly.— ms debts.
guished himself in the French campaign. He was
not married. * Platof’s third son, — Matveitch, is
now living : he had the misfortune to lose one of
his cheeks by the bursting of a musket. He is
married, and has one daughter. Like Platof’s
oldest grandson, he also received 900 souls at his
father’s death ; while 200 were divided among the
other members of the family. He sometimes re¬
sides upon the family estate, Mishkin, but more
frequently at some distance in the country, for the
sake of economy; his revenues being scarcely
sufficient to enable him to live, even in the cheap
town of Novo-Tcherkask.
Of Platof’s four daughters, the two elder are
dead, and buried with their father. The other
two are still living : they were both married before
the year 1812; the elder, Anna Matveevna, to
Colonel Kharitonof, who has three sons and one
daughter ; the younger, Maria Matveevna, to Ma¬
jor-general Grekof, who has no children, and who
accompanied her husband to Paris in 1812-13-14.
Mr. Smirnoi also mentions the step-daughter of
Platof, who is married to the present Ataman of
the Kozaks, Lieutenant-general Nikolai Vassilie-
vitch Ilovaiskii, and his step-son, Colonel Kirsan
Pavlovitch Kirsanof. All the members of the fa¬
mily are now residing in, or near, Novo-Tcherkask.
At his death, Platof was in debt 100,000 roubles
* Vide page 242. of this Vol.
J11S I'HOl’ERTY.—NORTHERN LITERATURE. 277
to the crown, and 200,000 rotibles to individuals.
The property he left behind him consisted, as
mentioned, of 2000 peasants, besides the estate of
Mishkin, and the ground and foundation of a pa¬
lace in Novo-Tcherkask. The heirs are gradually
paying off the debt, and already the crown has
received nearly the whole of the amount due to it.
They must still live economically, however, for a
number of years to enable them annually to pay
off a part of the debt from their revenues. I shall
close this account with a few important facts with
respect to northern literature.
At the time Smirnoi’s Life, &c. of Platof was
published, I find, by the list of subscribei's, at its
conclusion, that their number amounted nearly to
600; and I believe 1000 or 1500 copies were
sold. This is a very great edition of such a work
in Russia. Among these 600 subscriptions are the
names of a number of nobles, and a few merchants
and burgesses. The chief sale of the work, how¬
ever, had place among the officers and the privates
of the Kozak army. A few Kozaks subscribed
individually; but more generally the whole of a
stanitsa , or village, subscribed ; and above eighty
stanitsas are enumerated. So great was the en¬
thusiasm with which Platof was regarded, and so
dear his memory, that subscriptions from his former
soldiers and countrymen stationed in Georgia, Bes¬
sarabia, Poland, Finland, and Siberia, are enrolled.
This fact is the more remarkable, because, though
r 3
278 DEPARTURE FROM NOVO-TCHKRKASK.
the three parts of the work, including the long list
of' subscribers, do not form more than GOO pages,
and are adorned only by nine inferior engravings,
each copy was sold for twenty-five roubles paper;
a most extraordinary high price in Russia.*
After so long and so interesting a digression, I
shall now return to our travels.
On the evening of the 16th of July, we left
Novo-Tcherkask, and arrived on the morning of
the 17th at Taganrog. The country was hilly,
and, as we approached that town, signs of cultiva¬
tion, plantations, and corn-fields, gave a cheerful
aspect to its vicinity. We had no opportunity of
examining Naktshivan, (or, as it is often written,
Nakhitchivan), which received its name from the
ancient town upon the left bank of the Araxes,
already noticed, and, like it, is inhabited by Arme¬
nians, t This town or colony was founded in
1780, in the reign of Catherine II., by the
Armenian merchants who emigrated from the
Krimea, and has ever been prosperous, because
its inhabitants have been industrious. Pallas and
Clarke have both given interesting accounts of it,
as well as of Rostof, which leave little room for
addition.
Taganrog is situated upon a promontory which
* The curious reader may contrast my account of the litera¬
ture of Russia with the above facts in The Character of the
Russians, &c. p. cxxiv.
f Vide p, 475. of this Volume.
TAGANROG. -DESCRIPTION.
279
advances into the Sea of Azoph, under East long.
42° (i, and North lat. 47° 10. Its name is com¬
posed of two Russian words, Tagan, a tripod,
and Hog, a horn. At one time a light-house or
lantern was placed upon the point of the promon¬
tory, by the Turks, and it is conjectured that it
was supported upon a tripod; hence the fanciful
derivation of the name of the town.
The advantages and disadvantages of Taganrog,
as a commercial port, have been repeatedly dis¬
cussed by writers. The reader desirous of ex¬
amining these, as well as its history, is referred
to the works of Pallas, Reuilly, Clarke, Cas-
telnau, &c..
Taganrog is become a place of considerable
importance, and is really a fine town, though
small. The streets are very broad and regular,
but not paved. The houses are built both of stone
and wood, and are tastefully painted. The for¬
tress, however, contains a number of low, mean
dwellings. The total number of edifices in the town
were reckoned, in 1820, at 2,000. The vignette
prefixed to this chapter, gives an excellent idea of
its plan. *
In 1802, a particular governor was appointed
for Taganrog, under whose administration were
* Pallas's twenty-fifth plate is a view of Taganrog, but this
place is greatly improved and augmented since the time it was
taken.
T 4
280
POPULATION OF TAGANROG.
placed, in 1807, the commercial towns of Nakt-
shivan, ltostof, and Mariopole, with their juris¬
dictions. Then a committee was formed for pub¬
lic edifices, and the state of the customs, of the
police, and of other public institutions, was im¬
proved. Barracks, a quarantine, an hospital, a
custom-house, and an exchange, &c., were erected,
and a public garden was formed.
Among the edifices most worthy of remark, are
the shops or bazars, the cathedral, and two Rus¬
sian churches, besides the Catholic church.
At one period, the population of Taganrog is
said to have amounted to 70,000 souls; but, ac¬
cording to a treaty between Turkey and Russia,
in 1711, this town was rased to the ground. By
the treaty of Kainardji, in 1774, it was definitively
given up to Russia, and since that period, it has
continued to make more or less advancement, ac¬
cording to favourable or unfavourable circumstances.
In 1790, according to Pallas, the population of
this town amounted to f>,000 souls : of whom 2,000
were sailors, under the orders of the captain of
the port; 1,500 were attached to the garrison,
under the commandant of the town; and 2,500
were merchants. In 1810, Dr. Clarke says, that
its population did not exceed 5,000 souls ; but he
neither assigns the cause of this low calculation,
nor gives the divisions of which it admitted ; but
he informs us, that he saw in it the representatives
of fifteen different nations assembled together at
COMMKllCK OK TAGANROG.
r2Sl
the same time. In 1812, Vsevolojskii, following
Pallas, says, the population of the town in question,
was 6,000 souls: and, in 1820, Castelnau makes
it amount to *7,f351 ; and, during summer, when
the ships arrive, to double this number.
We were told by an excellent authority, which
I do not name for fear of compromising the indi¬
vidual, that in 1822, the population of Taganrog,
in summer, when there were many ships in the
harbour, was often as high as 12,000 ; but at other
times that it did not exceed 9,000 or 10,000.
The chief inhabitants of Taganrog are Russians,
Tartars, Greeks, Germans, Italians, French, and
English.
In the year 1775, the commerce of Taganrog,
if it deserve such an appellation, amounted to
seven roubles and twenty kopeeks, importation;
and 109 roubles and thirty kopeeks, exportation.*
Pallas states the amount of the importation in
1792, at 97>653 roubles, and that of exportation
at 370,551 roubles ; and in 1793, that of import¬
ation at J 56,058, and that of exportation at
428,087 roubles. Stchekatof informs us, that from
seventy to 120 ships annually arrive at Taganrog;
that the amount of importation was 2,340,115
roubles; and that of exportation 2,272,374, in
1806.
* View of tiie Russian Empire, vol. iii. p. 591.
COMMERCE OF TAGANROG.
‘28 2
The following table respecting the importation
at Taganrog, in 1813, is translated literally from
Herrmann’s Observations upon the Commerce of
the Interior of Russia, which takes place by
water:—
MERCHANDISE.
IMPORTATION.
(1 ) Of the Vegetable Kingdom .
Rye-Flour -
-
- 57,200 poods.
Hemp -
-
- for 82,400 roubles.
Coarse linen
-
- for 600 ditto.
Fine thread -
-
- for 600 ditto.
Cotton and linen
cloth, posts') 55,473 pieces, and for
Sc logs of wood for building ) 100 roubles.
Flanks
-
- 48,885 pieces.
Small planks
-
- 250,209 ditto.
Bark of the lime-tree
- 10,555 ditto.
Mats -
-
- 74,000 ditto.
Charcoal -
-
C460 poods, and for
’ 122,500 roubles.
Wooden utensils
-
C 2,300 pieces, and for
’ \ 139,650 roubles.
Wheels
-
- 1,100 pieces.
Carts
-
( 3,032 pieces, and for
‘ \ 20,700 roubles.
Forest-trees -
-
- 42,950 pieces.
Firewood
-
- - 870 sajins.
Furniture
-
- for 100 roubles.
Tinder
-
- 12 poods.
Tar
-
- 13,300 ditto.
Peas -
-
- 53,890 ditto.
Vinegar
-
- for 2,100 roubles.
Tea
-
- 50 poods.
Sugar -
-
- 155 ditto.
Persian Tobacco
-
- 160 ditto.
COMMERCE OF TAGANROG. -QUARANTINE. 283
MERCHANDISE. IMPORTATION.
(2) Of the Mineral Kingdom .
Steel -
Iron in bars -
Wrought iron
Scythes
Axes and pick-axes
Copper-money
Fire-arms and ammunition
Dutch-ware
Pottery-ware
Tile-stoves -
(3) Of the Animal Kingdom.
Butter -
Salt, dried and smoked fish
Caviar -
Candles ...
Furs -
- 6,000 poods.
- 1,010,750 poods.
- for 52,809 roubles.
- 4,500 pieces.
- 23,000 ditto.
- 235,000 roubles.
206,000 poods, and
100 pieces.
(1,180 poods, and for
\ 3,500 roubles.
- 18,000 pieces and 3 baskets,
- 600 pieces.
- 11,220 poods.
- 4,400 ditto.
- 16,532 ditto.
- 300 ditto.
- 50 poods and 50 bales.
The commerce of importation by the Don,
amounted, in 1813, to 4,327,084 roubles.* In
1822, the commerce of Taganrog was by no means
active.
The quarantine lies at the distance of five versts
from the town, on the side of a small bay. It is a
remarkably neat and well-managed establishment,
and merits the examination of the traveller.
* Vide Donnies Statistiques sur le Commerce dc PInterieur
de la Russie, que s’est fait par eau en 1813; par C. Th. Herr¬
mann. Mcmoires de PAcad. Imp. de St. Pctersbourg, vol. v.
p. 662. and 698.
DEPART URL-; FOR NIJNI-NOVGOROD.
‘ 28 /.
When we were at Taganrog, it was in a state of’
inactivity. The Greeks, who compose nearly two-
thirds of the population, had, two years before,
quarrelled with the governor of the town. They
accused him of great impropriety of conduct, in
consequence of which he was regularly tried by a
court of law, and had been honourably acquitted.
He had not yet returned to the town. It was
expected by many of the foreigners, that with his
return, activity and prosperity would again be seen
at Taganrog.
General Shauf’us, who was acting pro tempore as
governor, and with whom we dined, advised us to
take separate roads to Nijni-Novgorod, as we
should find it impossible to get horses for two
carriages at the post-stations, so many merchants
and nobles being on the route to the same place.
Accordingly, two of our party pursued their course
back to Novo-Tcherkask, and from thence through
Pensa to Nijni-Novgorod; while the other, in¬
cluding myself resolved to proceed through Vo-
roneje for the same destination. We also deter¬
mined not to follow the regular post-road, by
Kharkof, Kursk, &c. ; but to take a shorter route,
according to the stations mentioned in the itine¬
rary at the end of this volume.
CHAP, XXI.
DEPARTURE FROM TAGANROG. — STEP . — USPENSKOYE.—
LUGAN IRON-WORKS. - ARRIVAL AT .TELTOYE SELO. —
ANECDOTE. — DROWNING OF OUR SERVANT.-HIS FUNERAL.
— VILLAGE JELTOYE SELO.-FINE COUNTRY.—DANCING.—
STAROBELSK. — OSTROGOJSK. - CHARACTER OF RUSSIAN
MERCHANTS. - METHOD OF BARGAINING. - ANECDOTE. -
PREMIUMS TO PURCHASERS. — GERMAN COLONY. - VORO-
NEJE. — ITS HISTORY. — PRESENT STATE. - COMMERCE. -
ANECDOTE.-A EUNUCH.— SUPPLY OF CORN-DR. CLARKES
EXTRAVAGANCE. - CAUSES OF IIIS PARTIAL ACCOUNTS. —
MILENETS. — ZADONSK. — YELETS. - YEPHREMOF.-BOG-
IIORODITSK. - TULA. - SERPUCIIOF.. - PUNISHMENT OF A
POST-BOOR. - MOSCOW. — BOGIIORODSK. — POKROF. —
VLADIMIR. - ITS HISTORY. — PRESENT STATE.— CATHE¬
DRAL.— CHURCHES. — POPULATION.— FAMOUS FOR CHER-
TAGANROG.-STEP. -USPENSKOYE.
US f>
RIES. - THE KLIASMA. - SUDOGDA. - MUROM. — IRON¬
WORKS AT VIXA.- TRICK OF POST-BOORS.- MONAKOVO.-
ROGUERY OF ITS SMOTRITEL.-BOGHORODSKOYE.-ARRIVAL
AT NIJNI-NOVGOROD. — THE VOLGA. — THE OKA.
On the evening of the 18 th of July, we left
Taganrog. Except a few corn-fields contiguous
to the town, the vicinity is bleak and barren. At
the first station, called Korovye Brode, we crossed
the Mius river by an excellent ferry, which is
kept by a Malo-Russian, who exhibited a degree
of stupidity not common among that people. No
interrogation or explanation could obtain from him
the name of the river just spoken of. On being
asked its name, he said “ it was a river;” and
when pressed to say what river, he replied, “ that
a river was water.” The country through which
we proceeded was gently undulating, but com¬
pletely of the nature of step. It gradually loses
this feature as we recede from Taganrog. Between
Ivanovskoye and Uspenskoye, there are numerous
corn-fields, and many villages surrounded by trees.
In the village Ivanovskoye is a good house, which
belongs to a General Shtiaret, with a couple of
huge and grotesque Kalmuck idols, many of which
we had noticed near Stavropole and Taganrog,
and which are described and represented by Pallas
and Porter. They give the whole body, every
part of which is uncommonly pendulous, and are
the most perfect we any where remarked. The
village Uspenskoye is much enlivened by the
LUGAN IRON-WORKS.
287
mansion of General Shevitch, and a large church
which looks well at a distance, but has great ar¬
chitectural defects when closely examined. On
the left of the road leading from Uspenskoye to
Lugan, is a vale of great length, which was co¬
vered with fine crops of corn and hay, and is
bounded by hills. White-washed villages, scattered
over the country, and surrounded by trees, give an
aspect of cheerfulness and comfort, which forms a
striking contrast to the gloomy abodes of the Rus¬
sian peasants farther to the north.
The iron-works and cannon-foundery at Lugan,
called Ltiganskoi Zavode, are among the most
extensive in the empire, and are supplied with
iron from Siberia. They occupy an immense
space of ground, and have a very respectable
appearance. They were formerly under the direc¬
tion of Sir Charles Gascoigne, a British outlaw,
who had been superintendant of the Carron Works
in Scotland. The secrets he had learnt there, he
betrayed to the Russian government, and was
rewarded accordingly. * From Lugan the artillery
is conveyed by water to the ports of the Black
Sea, Sevastopol, Nikolaef &c.
The adjoining village, Kamennoi Brode, which
is on the north side of the river Lugan, is very
large. All its inhabitants are Malo-Russians, and
are employed in the fabric, the yamstddks or post¬
boors excepted.
* Vide Clarke’s Travels, p. 256. 298.
288 ARRIVAL AT JELTOYF. SKI.O.—ANECDOTE.
At Lugan we quitted the usual route, arrived
about half-past nine o’clock in the evening at
Jeltoye Selo, and as it was moonlight, determined
to continue our journey in the night. The post¬
master got our podorqjnd inscribed, and then went
and reported us to the Ataman, or chief of the
village, which is mostly inhabited by Malo-Rus-
sians. Meantime an officer arrived, who asked
for horses immediately. The moment ours came
in sight, he seized them, and ordered them to
be put to his carriage. This, of course, we re¬
sisted, but not without a serious dispute. We
then took hold of the horses, and ordered them to
be harnessed to our carriage. The post-master
reasoned with the officer upon the impropriety of
his conduct in answer to which, the latter, in a
most vehement tone, ordered his servant, a soldier,
to whip the former. The post-master being a man
of spirit, returned the blow’s, and a scuffle en¬
sued. We departed with the most indignant
feelings at the power which this officer took upon
himself, against all law j conduct in which he has
numerous imitators, every day, throughout the
Russian empire.
After proceeding less than a verst, we reached
the sandy banks of the Donets, where we halted.
Our servant alighted and called to the ferrymen,
who were on the opposite side of the river; to
make them hear, he advanced upon a jetee,
though the coachman desired him repeatedly to
DROWNING OI' OUR SERVANT.
289
stop. We were immediately alarmed by a cry
from the coachman, that the servant had fallen
into the water. We jumped out by the opposite
doors of the carriage, and ran to the jettee: all
was already silent as death. We called Johan ,
Johan, but received no answer: the surface of the
river was calm, and a hat swam at a short distance.
Johan had disappeared.
Our painful sensations were much aggravated
by the unfeeling and inhuman conduct of the ferry¬
men, who were now in motion toward us, and to
whom we related what had happened, and ear¬
nestly entreated their assistance. But neither
entreaty, nor liberal offers of money, nor menaces,
had any effect upon those hardened monsters;
who, instead of hastening to our aid, remained in
the middle of the river, alternately comforting us
with this assurance, “ The river is deep, take care
of yourselves, or you will share the fate of the
man,” and scolding the coachman for disturbing
them so late at night When we became more
importunate, they harshly and impudently replied,
“ Do you wish that we should meet the fate of
your servant ?—Return to-morrow morning, and
you will find him when it is lightas if it had
been a matter of perfect indifference to us whether
we should have a living being now, or a dead body
on the morrow. All traces of our poor servant
being lost, we could do nothing, but remained
awhile on the spot, loth to believe that Johan
VOL. II. u
290 OUR servant’s FUNERAL.-JELTOYE SELO.
would rise no more! We returned at length with
heavy hearts to the village, gave information of
what had happened, and passed the short time
till daylight, in the carriage, and in walking about;
the night being fine, and all inclination to sleep
having been banished by this unfortunate accident.
On the 20th of July, provided with people, we
set oft’ to the river about four o’clock in the
morning, and soon found the body of Johan, a few
feet from the place from which he fell, and where
the water was about ten feet deep. The corpse
was carried to an adjoining wood, and prayers were
read over it according to the ritual of the Greek
church.
To avoid all difficulty on returning to Moscow
without our servant, we observed the regular forms
necessary on such an occasion. A kind of co¬
roner’s inquest is held, but without any jury. The
Zasyedatel, or fiscal, wrote to the nearest tribunal
in the town of Slavenoserbsk, and having received
an answer empowering him to do what was neces¬
sary, he went and examined the body, which we
had afterwards put into a coffin. We then accom¬
panied it to the grave in the village church-yard.
With the Zazyeddtel we left Johan’s passport,
and signed a report as to the accident. We also
obtained from him a proper document, with his
signature and the priest’s, in which the result of
the inquest was contained. This paper was to
serve as a guarantee on the road, in case any of
FINE COUNTRY.-DANCING.-STAROBELSK. 291
the post-masters should enquire for Joluvn, as his
name was entered in the podorbjnc, and it was
delivered to the police on our arrival at Moscow.
Jeltoye Selo is a cheerful village, surrounded by
a fruitful country, which gradually became more
interesting as we approached Starobelsk. Bound¬
less tracts of corn-fields, intermixed with hemp and
lint, extensive pastures covered by herds of cattle,
numerous white-washed villages amid trees, upon
an undulating surface of hill and dale, formed a
pleasing and varied prospect. The river Aidara ,
which we frequently approached and receded from,
added greatly to the beauty of the country ; and
a range of very white limestone hills, gave it a
picturesque effect.
The district between Shulchinka and Starobelsk
was so fine, rich, and variegated, and so studded
with villages, as to remind us of some of the
pleasing scenery of England. We were highly
amused in one of the villages, by the peasants, who
were dancing to the sound of the national bcdaleika,
as is shown by the vignette of the present chapter.
Starobelsk, a small district town in the govern¬
ment of Voroneje, built upon the left bank of the
Aidara, which flows into the Donets, is one of
the neatest, of its size, I have seen in Russia.
The streets are regular, wide, and clean; the
bouses are white-washed, and intermixed with trees;
and a couple of churches lend their lively colours
to the view.
u 2
292
OSTIIOGOJSK.
We left Starobelsk on the morning of the 21st.
The country between it and Belalutskaya becomes
still more and more inviting; and immeasurable
tracts of corn fields are intermixed with many vil¬
lages and gentlemen’s seats. Between the last-
named station and Yeremen, more pasture land
occurs. The limestone hills, already noticed, con¬
tinued along our course to near Yeremen, where
we crossed them and proceeded to Ostrogojsk,
through a country with a continually varying sur¬
face of ascent and descent, and rich in corn, but
by no means so charming as that part of our jour¬
ney previously noticed.
Numerous churches give Ostrogojsk an imposing
appearance at a distance, which disappoints the
traveller on a nearer inspection. This town is
built at the confluence of the Ostrogojsk, from
which it derives its name, and the Sosna. It oc¬
cupies an elevated situation, and is included in the
government of Voroncje, and contains 11,000 souls.
There are ten churches in it, of which two are
reckoned cathedrals. Many of the houses are built
of stone, but more of wood, and a few of the streets
are laid out upon a regular plan. A number of mer¬
chants dwell here, who carry on a considerable
commerce, especially in horned cattle from the
Ukraine, horses, and tallow.
I had occasion to purchase a pair of boots at
Ostrogojsk, and so great was the finesse of the
CHARACTER OF RUSSIAN MERCHANTS. 293
boot-makers, that I could have fancied myself in the
Bargaining Shops at Moscow.
In another work I have entered at great length
into the character of the Russian merchants, and
their mode of trafficking*, and though the picture
was drawn from the life, and the colours by no
means overcharged, it has been hinted by some,
that it is too general, and too severe. I feel con¬
vinced, however, of its being a fair representation,
and that the accuracy of every sentence will be
borne out by those who have been in Russia, and
still more so by those who have had dealings with
the native merchants. The character of dishonesty
seems to have clung to this class of subjects at least
for some hundred years, for even one of the best
historians of Russia, Karamzin, frankly avows,
“ That in the times of the great dukes, the Mos¬
cow merchants knew and confirmed the proverb,
that ‘ A merchant mil sell his face ” and he adds,
that, “ Their finesse in buying and selling aston¬
ished the Germans, who said, ‘ Satan alone could
cheat a Russian.’ ” t
In the work already referred to, I have explained
the peculiar mode of buying and selling which is
universally pursued throughout the empire of Rus¬
sia ; and I shall here add a few details in illustra¬
tion, especially as they tend to throw light upon
* Character of the Russians, p. cxxxix. and p. 284.
f SotchineniyA, or Works, vol. ix. p. 174.
29f UUSS1AN METHOD OF BARGAINING.
the general system of* corruption in the common
affairs of life, which is gradually becoming preva¬
lent even among the Krimean Tartars, the Cau¬
casians, and the Georgians, and may have much
influence in changing their national character.
The house-stewards, and the house-keepers,
called, from the French, economes and economical,
have very desirable situations in Russia, especially
in the houses of noblemen who live in good style,
and, of course, where there are many purchases to
make. Such situations are sometimes filled by the
slaves of the nobles, but very often by free people :
they are much sought after, and although they
receive but a trifling salary, these stewards often
succeed in making a competence for life, and some
times a large fortune, in the course of a few years.
The Russian nobles, comparatively speaking,
make but few bargains themselves: buying and
selling, among the higher ranks, is looked upon as
beneath their dignity; and yet it is in Russia,
where we find at times the highest titles associated
with merchant, in the same persons, or under an¬
other appellation which pleases them better, spe¬
culators.
No class of men in the world know their own
country and their own interest better than the
Russian merchants, and they take particular care
to win and retain the good wishes of stewards,
house-keepers, and servants. Suppose a number
of merchants are brought into competition, the
RUSSIAN METHOD OF HARGAINING. ^95
goods of him who offers the most liberal premium
are sure to be preferred by the purchasers, who
soon become acquainted with those whom they call
liberal men. Suppose a noble sends for two or
three merchants, and desires them to bring such
goods as he wishes ; the messenger and merchants
take care to have an explanation with each other
should a purchase be made. Now, as the nobles
very frequently are no judges themselves, either of
the quality or the price of articles, they search out
and examine those which please them, and leave
the money arrangements to their inferiors. But
even when they are judges, still the opinions of
their attendants have wonderful influence over
them. The reader will easily comprehend that the
stewards recommend the wares of those who give
them the largest reward, and disparage those of
competitors, though of a superior quality: thus the
servant’s and the merchant’s interest are intimately
linked together, and the noble pays for the roguery
of both. Indeed, it is not uncommon to go a step
farther in deceit. The steward connives at less
measure, or less weight, of goods than were bought,
and even sometimes admits a mixture, or receives
them of an inferior quality. There are so few ex¬
ceptions to this detestable mode of traffic, that it
may be said to be universal in Russia. The noble
is basely defrauded every where; in his house and
out of his house, by his servants and by the mer¬
chants, who enrich themselves at his expense.
u 4
296
ANECDOTE.
For the purchase of meat, vegetables, and coarse
articles, a steward very generally has a kuptchik ,
or buyer, under his orders, who pursues the same
system of imposition as his superior.
Whoever is the purchaser, the same system is
carried on with clothiers, hosiers, mercers, dealers
in tea, sugar, rum, wine, furniture, &c.
The following anecdote is very characteristic :—
A Russian noble asked me to recommend a mer¬
chant from whom good English porter could be
purchased. I did so, and soon afterwards had an
opportunity of informing the gentleman that I had
spoken in his favour. He asked if the noble made
such purchases himself, or employed a dvoretskoi,
or house-steward, to do so. Upon my saying that
beyond all question the dvoretskoi would be sent
for the purpose, he begged me to prevent it;
“ for,” said he, “ as I make no presents to that
rank of individuals, however good the porter pur¬
chased might be, it would not fail to turn out bad
upon trial; and, in some way or other, I should
be troubled or angered, and besides, very probably,
have considerable difficulty in obtaining payment
of my bill.”
To such an extent does this mode of giving and
receiving premiums extend, that the servant who
carries a receipt to the apothecary’s shop univer¬
sally gets his reward; for if he did not, he would
contrive, by some means or other, to carry the next
prescription to another apothecary who, he knew,
PREMIUMS TO PURCHASERS.
297
’■would not forget him: respectable apothecaries are
therefore necessitated to comply with a revolting
custom, or they might shut their shops. As else¬
where, many of the noble families are in the custom
of running quarterly, or half yearly, or annual ac¬
counts with the apothecaries; and when the bills
are paid, the servants obtain a handsome present.
But this practice of presents also prevails among
a higher class of individuals. Soon after my arrival
in Russia, I had occasion to purchase a quantity of
medicines. Sometime afterwards, when the bill
was paid, I was rather surprised at receiving a
handsome present from the apothecary. On men¬
tioning the circumstance to a friend, my surprise
ceased. The fact is, that it is well understood that
all medical men, if they choose, receive ten, and
sometimes even fifteen per cent, profit, upon
medicines they purchase for public charities, or
for private apothecary-shops upon the estates of
the nobility in the interior; and five or ten per
cent, upon the value of all medicines made up by
their prescriptions throughout the empire. This is a
manner of procedure at which a British physician
is appalled on his first entrance into Russia, and
even when he is assured it is the custom of the
country, he cannot think of complying with it.
There are few who have always resisted the receipt
of what is considered fair gain ; the practice hav¬
ing been, in fact, established as a law, which is
known to all, and which universally prevails. For
298
PREMIUMS TO PURCHASERS.
;i number of years, contrary to the advice of some
friends, I refused the general premium, or rather,
I bought the medicines ten per cent, lower than
most medical men and as I had occasion to make
considerable purchases, I thus lost proportionate
advantages; and what was worse, in the end, so
far from being praised for my conduct by those
whose interest I consulted, I was laughed at for
my pretensions of having acted a better part than
others •, and insinuations were thrown out, that I
made sure of my reward in some other way. I
now laid aside my former scruples, and allowed the
apothecaries to make me presents as they did to
others; and I would advise all medical men to do
so, or not to go to Russia.
It is an astonishing feature in the history of Rus¬
sian bargaining, that notwithstanding that stewards
receive a regular per centage, or premium, from
the seller, they can still purchase goods at a cheaper
rate than their masters or mistresses, who receive
no discount. Thus a servant will buy the same
cloth a rouble an arshin cheaper than his master,
and, besides, will receive a premium. This mode
of proceeding, no doubt, may sometimes be ex¬
plained by a difference in the quality of the goods,
or by a deficiency in their weight or quantity; but
the basis of such a principle seems to be the de¬
termination of the merchants to encourage pur¬
chases by stewards and servants rather than by
GERMAN COLONY.
299
their masters and mistresses, since thereby they
invariably become greater gainers.
In all departments of commerce, and in all civil,
military, and naval situations, half of the reve¬
nues are obtained either by roguery, or by the
receipt of presents, which have become a legal re¬
ward from their general recognition; and, conse¬
quently, no infamy attaches to them.
At the distance of five versts from Ostrogojsk,
and upon the banks of the Sosna, is a German
colony, called the Colony of Ostrogojsk, which con¬
sists of 300 individuals, many of them tradesmen,
but more engaged in rural occupations. The
surrounding fields were covered with tobacco, po¬
tatoes, and corn, which attested the industry and
the apparent opulence of the inhabitants. This
colony consists of a long street, with a church in
the middle, but had not the pleasing appearance
we expected. Neither the cleanness of the streets,
nor the neat thatched cottages, nor the appearance
of general order, was here observed, which we had
before remarked at some of the German colonies.
The general appearance of the country between
Ostrogojsk and Voroneje is such as I have de¬
scribed before arriving at the former town : it is
quite the granary of Russia, if one might judge by
the profusion of corn. At a short distance from
Voroneje the road becomes more level, and in wet
weather is extremely bad. Near the town it is a
complete marsh.
SOU VORONEJE.—ITS HISTORY,
As we approached Voroneje on the morning of
the 23d of July, we were much struck by its mag¬
nificent appearance, situated on the high banks of
the river from which it derived its name, and a
few versts from the place where it falls into the
Don. In the spring, by the inundation of the
river, two thirds of the town are surrounded by
water, and it is then seen to greater advantage,
rising alone amidst the waste of waters. In sum¬
mer it is very unhealthy, from the quantity of
marsh and swamp which extends some versts on
two of its sides. It is one of the largest, finest,
and most populous towns of the empire, and be¬
sides, lends its name to a government characterised
for its fecundity, especially in corn. It therefore
deserves a particular description.
Voroneje is reckoned one of the most ancient
towns of Russia; but the epoch of its foundation
is not known. It is spoken of, however, as already
existing in the twelfth century. It is conjectured
to have been built by the Khozares in consequence
of a grant of lands by Vladimir Monomach: but,
however this may be, it was dependent upon the
principality of Russia. It is rather remarkable that
it suffered little at the invasions of Batii Khan, and
of Mamai Khan. In 1590, the Kozaks of the Uk¬
raine threw themselves upon this town, burned it,
and massacred the Vuevode. It was afterwards
pillaged by rebels under their chief, Zaroutskii.
Being upon the frontier of the Nogay tribe, there
AND PRESENT STATE.
301
was carried on a commerce advantageous for Rus¬
sia. It was in Voroneje that the Tartar and Turk¬
ish ambassadors were received who came to Russia,
and to which they were conducted on their return.
In 1676, the fortifications of this town were re¬
newed. They were formed of oak wood, and sup¬
plied with cannon. But the importance of Voro¬
neje dates from the time of Peter the Great, who
resided there to superintend and direct the con¬
struction of ships. From hence a few vessels
floated to the Don and the Sea of Azoph, which
were of great use in the expedition against the
town of the same name. The dock was afterwards
removed to Ustia, at the confluence of the Voro¬
neje and the Don, then to Tavrof, and lastly, to
the fortress of Rostof, at the embouchure of the
Don. The palace in which the Tsar lived, the
dock, the admiralty, and the magazines which were
then constructed, were all burned during different
great fires in the town. It is said that a brick
magazine still remains upon an island, in which is
preserved the model of a ship, of a particular con¬
struction, made by Peter the Great himself; but
this curiosity we did not see.
At present Voroneje makes a very respectable
appearance, and can boast of a population of nearly
20,000 souls. It contains some spacious streets,
and a great many which are very mean : the sub¬
urbs are as black and gloomy as a country village.
The principal street, the Dvorianskaya Ulitsa, has
302 COMMERCE OF VORONEJE.—ANECDOTE.
a noble appearance, its sides being lined with massy
and handsome edifices, many of them the property
of the crown, as the governor’s and vice-governor’s
houses; the tribunals; the post-office; the com¬
missariat ; the academy, See. The Moskovskaya
Ulitsa, or street, is also very fine, and in it the
archbishop’s palace, with an adjoining cathedral, is
situated. The columns of the cathedral are of
such an extraordinary length as to render it impos¬
sible to reduce them to any order of architecture.
The shops, or bazars, are likewise very respect¬
able ; and a great commerce is carried on here,
with the ports of the Black Sea. Voroneje also
contains some cloth manufactories, tanneries, and
soap and tallow works.
As the gentleman with whom I was now travel¬
ling had left a servant at Moscow, we changed our
plan of proceeding from Voroneje to Nijni-Nov-
gorod, and determined to go directly to the ancient
capital to find him, and from thence to proceed to
join the rest of the party. Wishing to have our
passports altered in consequence of the intended
change of route, we called upon the Governor, and
after one or two ineffectual attempts we succeeded
in finding him at home. Our reception, at first,
was far from flattering. We had no letters of in¬
troduction, and were therefore looked upon as
troublesome intruders. To our enquiry, whether
we had the honour of speaking to his Excellency
the Governor of Voroneje, he replied in the most
ANECDOTE.
303
haughty and repulsive manner; “ Eh bien, Mes¬
sieurs, que voulez -vous ?” It was reallyamusing to
observe the effect which the judicious introduction
of a few great names amongst our Russian acquaint¬
ance, and the assumption of an air of more than
usual importance, had upon him. He immediately
became aware of his mistake; his repulsive manners
vanished in an instant; he became affable, courteous,
and even kind in his manner to us; we were
ushered, with all due ceremony, into his best suite
of rooms, and invited to dinner ; an amende honor¬
able which we were glad to accept, in order to
form some idea of the society of a provincial town
in Russia. It was thoroughly Russian society, and
not of the first class. The Governor supported the
Russian character for hospitality by frequent and
pressing invitations to drink, and seemed surprised
that, as Englishmen, we did not better maintain our
national character of fondness for the bottle. In
the evening we returned to receive our passports,
which, as he had promised, were prepared for
us. We drank tea with him; he overwhelmed
us with attentions and professions ; and, on parting,
he presented my companion with a small Russian
table-cloth, which he had admired, as if deter¬
mined to obliterate every recollection of our first
reception.*
* We found the gentleman alluded to was only the governor
pro tempore .
304 .
A EUNUCH.—SUPPLY OF CORN.
After dinner we made a visit to a very singular
character, Mr. Barbarini, an Italian eunuch, who
was 114 yeaj's of age, arid who had been suc¬
cessively employed by Catharine II., the late
Count Sheremetof, and other noblemen, in their
orchestras, or as a singer, but who for a number
of years past has been a kind of innkeeper without
a license ; a liberty allowed him in consequence of
his great age. The vivacity, the gaiety, and the
extraordinary manners of this old man exceedingly
astonished us. One might have supposed himself
in company with one of the most fashionable youths
of the day. His mirth always terminated in loud
fits of laughter. Although, apparently, he had one
foot in the grave, he spoke much of going to Italy,
and even of travelling over Europe.
In the government of Voroneje, as well as in the
surrounding governments, the country is covered
with corn fields, and, no doubt, it forms an almost
inexhaustible granary for common purposes. But
unfortunately there are so many distilleries in the
south, that enormous quantities of grain are an¬
nually consumed by them, and in bad seasons,
even these fruitful climes have been in want of
bread. This is all owing to mismanagement, as
the soil yields double and triple the quantity of
grain necessary for the population. A few years
ago two bad seasons succeeded each other, and
com became extremely scarce. That substantial
article of Russian diet, black bread, got to an ex-
Dll. clarkf.’s extravagance. 805
travagant price, and the peasants were badly off.
In general, however, the peasantry of these fertile
regions live well for their situation in life; and
therefore it is altogether inconceivable how Dr.
Clarke could have written the following heart¬
rending account, which assuredly is extravagant: —
“ Traversing the provinces south of Moscow,” says
he, “ the land is as the garden of Eden ; a fine
soil, covered with corn, and apparently smiling in
plenty. Enter the cottage of the poor labourer,
surrounded by all these riches, and you find him
dying of hunger, or pining from bad food, and in
want of the common necessaries of life. Extensive
pastures, covered with cattle, afford no milk to
him. In autumn, the harvest yields no bread for
his children. The lord claims all the produce.”
In “ The Character of the Russians, £$c.” I have
often animadverted upon the extravagant and pre¬
judiced statements of Dr. Clarke, and have ex¬
plained the reasons of his having seen but the
gloomy shades of the picture. Now, even his
supporters and friends seem conscious of his partial
and overcoloured accounts, as is proved by the
sentiments expressed in the examination of the
sixth volume of his interesting Travels, in a very
distinguished periodical publication, the Edinburgh
Review, and by the following quotation from his
biographer: — Speaking of the great and compa¬
rative interest which Dr. Clarke’s works excited,
this gentleman says, “ From the singular situation
VOL. II.
x
306 causes of clarke’s partial accounts.
of that country (Russia), in the latter years of
the Emperor Paul, with regard both to her inter¬
nal and external policy, and the general exclusion
of strangers from his dominions, every authentic
account of that period was likely to be received
with avidity; while, on the other hand, the pro¬
bable influence of her power and councils upon
the fate of Europe at the time of the publication *,
rendered the character of her institutions and peo¬
ple, objects of the most lively and general interest.
Thus was the public mind prepared for the work,
and thus did the strong tone of feeling under
which Dr. Clarke wrote, accord with the general
excitement under which it was read; and when
we consider farther, how strongly political pre¬
judice is apt to warp the judgment of mankind, the
same facts which will account for the rapid sale
of the volume, will also explain the reason of the ex¬
travagant blame or praise which has attached to it.
Looking back now with an impartial eye upon the
work, and the nation it describes; considering
the extraordinary susceptibility of the author’s
mind, and the expression he lets fall in one of his
letters, that he should be glad to like the Russian
people, if the government would let him, we may
admit it to be probable, without impeaching the
* This alludes to the first volume of Dr. Clarke’s Travels,
relating to Russia.
-A11LENETS.
307
veracitv of a single statement, that the vexations
he underwent, induced him, unawares, to linger
more on the dark side of the picture, than upon
the bright one ; and that he might possibly have
sat down to the composition of his work, under
much of the same kind of feeling with which many
others sat down to the reading of it. It shoidd
be remembered too, for the sake of all parties,
that Dr. Clarke saw the Russian people at a
moment when their natural good temper and
vivacity were soured by the disgraceful situation
of their country.” *
We left Voroneje on the evening of the 23d
of July, and after travelling many versts through
a fertile country, without a single object which
attracted notice, we were agreeably surprised by
the appearance of Milenets, an estate and village
of Mr. Mikoulin, between Khlebnoye and Zadonsk.
The mansion-house is very large, and of a square
form, with four similar faqades, and the surround¬
ing grounds are laid out with taste. The situation
is not the best, though it is pleasant and com¬
manding. Rut what deserves most attention, is
the village close to the house and along both sides
of the great road. Almost all the huts of the
peasants have been pulled down, and the rest are
to follow. In their places there are already twenty
* The Life and Remains of the Rev. E. D. Clarke, p.56S.
1824.
\ c >
308
ZADONSK.
houses of a single story in height, separated from
each other by a court, and constructed altogether of
stone, or of wood plastered over upon a stone
foundation, and each with three windows. These,
with a larger house for the steward, occupy one
side of the road, and the same plan is most likely
now completed on the other side, as half the
houses were built when we were there; now above
two years ago. Mr. Mikoulin has given an ex¬
ample of improvement to his countrymen, which
I hope will prove successful in time ; as, no doubt,
his wish is to introduce a love of order, neatness,
and comfort among the peasants; which, of course,
will tend to civilise them. At present, nothing
can appear more inconsistent than to see the un¬
couth figures of the Russians stalking about these
dwellings, and it will be the work of many years
before they be taught to make a proper use of
them.
We soon reached Zadonsk, a small town remark¬
able for its neat appearance and pleasing environs.
It is situated about half a verst from the Don. Its
monastery is a conspicuous object, and is very
fine. Its population amounts to about 2,000 souls,
who are chiefly employed in agriculture, and a
few in fishing upon the river.
We crossed the Don, a large and beautiful river,
even so high up as Zadonsk ; and we had an ac¬
commodation not often met with, an excellent
ferry-boat.
YELETS.
309
The approach from the south to Yelets, gives
every advantage to the appearance of that town.
On account of its very high situation, it is seen at
many versts’ distance. Its numerous churches,
and still more the many large stone houses white¬
washed and painted yellow, pink, and red, with
their various-coloured roofs, rising on the side of a
steep hill, in regular succession above each other,
give it an air of magnificence which few Russian
towns really possess. The mind is prepared, as
on many other occasions, for disappointment, on
entering the mean suburb, and crossing a dirty
bridge over a broad but shallow river, the Sosna,
along which the town stands. By a difficult
ascent, we at length reached Yelets. Numerous
large houses on every side might be placed in the
capitals of the country. But though massy and
gaudy, I never remarked so many deviations from
all the rules of architecture, in a given space, as
among the edifices of this town. Disproportionate
pillars and pilasters, and an excess of frippery
work and ornament, are almost universal defects.
The streets are regular, have trottoirs, and being
paved by large masses of limestone, are in good
order in the middle of the town ; but, at both exits,
they have judged badly, who ordered the steep
declivity of the hill to be paved in the same man¬
ner. We were glad to walk, in order to escape
the fate which seemed to threaten those who ven¬
ture to remain in their carriages, should the drag
x 3
310
YEPHREMOF.-BOGHORODITSK.
give way, or the horses take fright, in such a
situation.
From its local position, Yelets is remarkably airy
and healthy. The environs are beautiful, and ex¬
tremely fertile, and provisions, consequently, very
cheap. It is one of the most delightful small towns
I have seen in Russia. Its inhabitants amount
to about 8,000 souls, who carry on a considerable
commerce, especially in corn.
From Yelets to Yephemof, the country was
similar to what we had passed, very fertile.
Yephremof, like Yelets, is situated on a high hill,
but in no other respect is to be compared, being a
mean wooden town, of considerable size, and con¬
taining but 3,000 inhabitants.
Between Yephremof and Tula, the country in
general may be said to be rich and beautiful, and
considerably varied in its. surface, as the frequent
calls for the drag sufficiently informed us. Woods,
corn fields, pastures, with an occasional gentleman’s
seat, compose the scenery.
Boghoroditsk is called a town, and lies at the
junction of two small rivulets, the Lesnoi Uperte,
and the Viasovka. Its population amounts to nearly
3,000 souls. It rather deserves the title of a mean
village, which is singularly contrasted with the
magnificent palace of Countess Bobnnska; a spe¬
cimen of the wealth her husband derived from his
relationship to the Empress Catherine 11., whose
natural son he was reported lo be by Orlof.
TULA. — SERPUCIIOF.
311
The country between Boghoroditsk and Tula,
as the harvest was general, presented the most
pleasing aspect, and the prospect of abundance.
This is the season when it is most attractive, and
it was much more fertile than we expected. We
reached Tula late in the evening of the 25th of
July, and supped at the inn at which we had
lodged in our journey to the south. This inn is
singularly well arranged. The waiters were atten¬
tive, active, well-dressed, and very clean. The
table-linen, plates, knives and forks, were in the
best order, and an excellent supper was served up
at three roubles a-head. The wines were also
good. This was a luxurious feast, to which we
had of late been little accustomed, and which is
seldom to be met with in the largest towns in the
south of the Russian empire.
We retraced our way to Serpuchof in the night,
and breakfasted there, but could not procure post-
horses. To prevent detention, we hired horses at
an extravagant rate to Moscow. The road to
Lapasna was extremely bad, and the horses much
fatigued; but as by contract they were changed
there, we hoped to get on more rapidly. By the
time we reached Podolsk, however, the new horses
were exhausted, and our post-boors now proposed,
contrary to our agreement, that we should stop for
three hours whilst they fed them. Finding other
horses at hand, we hired them, and wished to get
rid of the former engagement, which the boors
x 4
S12 PUNISHMENT.-MOSCOW. — UOGUORODSK.
could not fulfil, by paying them the proportion of
the sum which they had earned. But to this they
objected, and demanded full payment to Moscow.
Finding them impertinent and stubborn, we at
length agreed to give them the sum on their arrival
at Moscow' with their horses, but even this would
not please them. When we were about to start,
one of the post-boors seized the reins, and to end
the matter, we drove to the Gorodmtchii, to whom
we related the affair. We were well treated, and
the coachman received a few blows, and orders to
go to Moscow with his horses, or be content to
give up the money. We got to the capital at
midnight; and on the following day he came there
and received his due.
We spent the 27 th and 28th of July at Moscow,
in making arrangements, and on the evening of
the latter day we set off to Nfjni-Novgorod. We
travelled all night, and early in the morning we
breakfasted at Boghorodsk, a small district town
in the government of Moscow’, which lies upon the
right bank of the Kliasma, contains about 500
inhabitants, and is chiefly built of wood, with a
few stone houses. The road, which is bad even in
good weather, was now almost impassable, as it
had rained in the night. We therefore travelled
slowly, and every plan was laid by the smotritel
to detain us here. At length he consented to give
us three horses, and we hired three others, and
went on. Alter proceeding nine versts, we reached
POKIIOF.
VLADIMIR.
313
the Kliasma, which we crossed by an extremely
bad ferry; the floating bridge established here hav¬
ing been carried away in consequence of a late
flood of the river by heavy rains. We entered the
village Bunkova, and, as we had learned that a
number of travellers had preceded us, and that
horses were kept for others who were expected,
we here hired private horses to Vladimir. The
weather was bad, and the road heavy, and little
occurred worth mentioning.
Pokrof is a small town, which contains about 500
souls, and, like Boghorodsk, is built of wood and
stone. Its vicinity is occupied by woods, forests,
and marshes, and is very barren.
Early in the morning of the 30th of July, we
reached the post station of Vladimir, which is two
versts from the town, where we breakfasted and
changed horses.
The weather being bad, we found the road ex¬
tremely heavy, — through clay and sand, and over
wood, — like the Petersburgh road, which it much
resembles. Till within two stations of Vladimir, it
is generally level, and bounded by fir woods, and
sometimes by corn fields between it and these -woods.
Near Vladimir it is more open, and is diversified
by hill and dale, woods, corn fields, and pastures.
Vladimir, as is well known, was once the
capital of Russia, and a city of great import¬
ance. It occupies a high and picturesque situ¬
ation upon the banks of the Kliasma, and the
314
HISTORY OF VLADIMIR.
rivulet Libed runs through it. If we can give
credit to the tradition, that before Vladimir was
burned by the Tartars, the city extended to the
convent of Bogholyubskii, from which it is now
distant eleven versts, it must have been a place of
enormous magnitude, but probably not of corre¬
spondent population, according to our ideas; be¬
cause the Asiatic manner of erecting wooden houses
surrounded by courts and gardens, caused them to
occupy an immense space, as is still the case in
many of the Russian towns, and even in many of
the suburbs of Moscow. Some of the historians of
Russia pretend that this town was built in the tenth
century by Vladimir the Great when he went to
Suzdal, Rostof, and Novgorod, to propagate the
Christian religion. Others maintain, with more
probability, that it owes its origin to Yuri Vladi-
mirovitch, surnamed Dolgorukii, and fix it in the
twelfth century, when it belonged to the princi¬
pality of Rostof. Prince Andrei Bogholyubskii,
son of Dolgorukii, having received in appanage the
principalities of Suzdal, as well as the town of
Vladimir, embellished the latter, and surrounded
it with a wall. On the death of his father in 1157,
he transferred his residence to it, and it became
the seat of the grand-duchy. It remained the
metropolis and residence during 170 years, i. e.
till the Grand Duke Ivan Danilovitch Kalita trans¬
ferred the seat of government to Moscow in 1328.
PRESENT STATE OF VLADIMIR.
315
Since that epoch Vladimir has always been united
to the Grand Duchy of Moscow.
In 1257, the Tartar Khan took Vladimir by as¬
sault, burned it, and caused the inhabitants to be
massacred during the absence of the Grand Duke
George Vsevolodovitch, who was raising an army
in the principality of Ilostof. This unfortunate
prince, having learned at the same time of the de¬
struction of his capital and of the massacre of his
wife and sons, shut himself up in the cathedral
with the Archbishop Mitrophanes and his younger
children. The Tartars having filled it with wood,
set fire to it, when all perished. We have little
cause to be surprised that the Russians, with such
instances before them, should long have considered
the Tartars as ferocious barbarians, and were kept
in alarm by their inroads in different parts of their
territories. Vladimir was again ravaged by them
in 1410, since which time, though never large, it
has always been a place of consequence, and has
long been the chief town of the government of the
same name.
Vladimir is surrounded by a ditch and earthen
rampart, and like almost all the ancient towns of
Russia of considerable size, is divided into the
Ivremle, the Ivitai-Gorod, and the Beloi-Gorod. It
contains one principal and long street, which is
wide, and the houses, of wood and stone inter¬
mixed, are excellent and built in good style. The
cross streets are, for the most part, mean in their
3l6 CATHEDRAL OF VLADIMIR.-CHURCHES.
appearance. The market-place, it being Sunday,
was extremely crowded as we passed through it.
The palace of the archbishop, which was formerly
a convent, and in which was preserved the body
of St. Alexander Nevskii before it was carried to
Petersburgh, is regarded with no common sens¬
ations, especially by the populace. It is now a
seminary for the education of the clergy. There
are also a nunnery, a gymnasium, the edifice for
the tribunals, the governor’s house, &c. which are
built of brick, besides a number of houses, and the
wooden town hospital, which attract attention.
The principal structure in Vladimir, however, is
the cathedral of the Assumption, which was once
magnificent. It is a square edifice, and, like the
cathedrals of Moscow, is surmounted by five domes.
At each corner its walls are strengthened by pro¬
jecting buttresses, which have a very clumsy
appearance, and a most disagreeable effect. Its
interior is richly ornamented; but its ancient splen¬
dour is no more.* We were much struck by its
beautiful and commanding situation, and its ap¬
pearance is now much enlivened by a sort of ter¬
race or boulevard, which stretches to the brow of
the hill on which it stands. Vladimir contains
about a dozen other churches.
Vladimir is not reckoned a wealthy town, though
* Vide, Essay on Architecture in Russia, in “ Character of
the Russians, &c.” p. 596.
POPULATION. -FAMOUS FOR CHERRIES. 817
the seat of the archbishop of Vladimir and Suzdal.
Its vicinity to Moscow, and its distance from any
of the great navigable rivers, always oppose obsta¬
cles to its prosperity. The number of its inha¬
bitants may be estimated at 4000 or 5000 souls.
They are occupied for the most part as merchants,
in the manufacture of linen, leather, &c., and have
extensive gardens, in which an immense quantity
of cherries are annually produced, and supply not
only the town, but also the vicinity, and even
Moscow. They have four different kinds which
are reckoned superior. The stranger is struck in
summer with the singular appearance of these gar¬
dens, especially by the banks of the Kliastna.
Numerous small watch-towers, some of them
not unlike the Vishlcas of the Tchernomorskii
Kozaks, rise amid the trees, between which cords
stretch in every direction. Boys and girls, and
even men and women, are seen at work in these
dwellings, but their principal occupation is to
pull the cords the moment a bird alights upon a
tree, so as to frighten it away. Labour does not
cost much here, and the quantity of cherries
produced brings a considerable annual revenue.
Vladimir being on the principal road by which
the merchants go to the fairs of Nijni-Novgorod
and Irbit, as well as on the grand line of commu¬
nication between Russia and Siberia, it often pre¬
sents a busy scene, especially in summer.
On (putting Vladimir we descended a very steep
318 TIIE KLIASMA.—SUDOGDA.- — MUROM.
hill, and were obliged to employ the drag. We
then crossed the Kliasma, by no means a con¬
temptible river, over an excellent floating bridge.
Travelling through a country similar to what lias
been mentioned, but still more open and undulat¬
ing, wc reached Murom on the morning of the 31st
of July. From Vladimir to Murom, the only ob¬
ject worthy of remark is the town of Sudogda, as
it is called, but which, as well as many of the other
district towns of Russia, is more like a village. A
person who looks over the list of towns in the
annual almanacks might suppose that this empire
is infinitely more populous than it is in reality.
This Said district-town of Sudogda, contains only
250 inhabitants of both sexes. Its solitary orna¬
ment is a church, which was built at the expense
of the Empress Catherine.
Murom is a larger town than Vladimir, and oc¬
cupies a very fine situation upon a hill near the
Oka. It is remarked that this river annually re¬
tires farther from its elevated bank, and of course
from the town ; and old persons assert, that houses,
which, in 1768, were near the river, are now at a
considerable distance from it.
The origin of Murom is involved in obscurity,
but is supposed to be very remote. Towards the
end of the tenth century, this place is spoken of
in the Russian chronicles. When Vladimir the
Great divided his estates among his children, he
gave Murom to his son Gleb, who established him-
MUROM.
319
self there with his family, augmented, peopled, and
fortified the town, but could not succeed in con¬
verting the inhabitants to Christianity. This was
accomplished a long time afterwards by Prince
Constantine Sviatoslavitch, who caused the first
church to be built here. Afterwards Murom be¬
came an appanage of the cadets of the princes of
Ivief, then of those of Vladimir, and of Rostof. It
was a frontier town on the side of the Bulgarian
tribes, and, in consequence, has often suffered by
their incursions. In 1030 it was taken, and entirely
ruined by them; and it also suffered much by the
invasions of the Tartars. It was only after the
foundation of Nijni-Novgorod that it came to en¬
joy tranquillity, but it never recovered its wonted
prosperity under its princes, although long a large
and active town.
Murom is divided into three quarters, the Kremle,
the Torgovaya, and the Predmestiye, or suburbs.
The Kremle is separated by an earthen rampart
from the other divisions. The Torgovaya is so
called because it contains the shops or bazars.
The cathedral was erected in the sixteenth cen¬
tury, and stands in the Kremle. The town con¬
tains no less than seventeen other churches, of
which a few are still of wood, besides two mo¬
nasteries and a nunnery.* The population does
* Capt. Cochrane says Murom betirs the name of a city, but
“ is undeserving of thnt of village, being a vast assemblage of
320
MUROM.
not exceed .5000 souls. There are numerous fa¬
brics of linen and leather, which they carry to
Petersburgh. They also traffic in corn by means
of the Oka. A great annual market is held at
Murom in June, which continues twelve days.
About twenty-five versts below this town, and
on the eastern bank of the Oka, there are a num¬
ber of rich iron mines, by which great fortunes
have been made. Batashof) who possessed one of
the finest palaces in Moscow, had a number of
foundries in this neighbourhood, which, after his
death, a few years ago, fell to his grand-children,
and are now under the management of their father.
General Shepelof. These fabrics have of late been
greatly improved, in consequence of the engage¬
ment of some Englishmen, Mr. Snow, Mr. Clarke,
&c. An immense quantity of their articles are
annually transported by the Oka toNrjni-Novgorod,
and sold during the great fair, which is soon to be
noticed.
The following account is extremely interesting;
and, as it is contained in a work which is not pe-
unsociable huts, with six or seven churches.” (Vide Narrative
of a Pedestrian Journey, &c. p. 30.) This statement is very in¬
accurate. It is true, that most of the houses at Murom have
but a mean appearance, but they are intermixed with stone
buildings, and, as mentioned above, with numerous churches.
In fact, Murom is a very respectable district-town, and few of
the same rank can be compared with it.
IRON-WORKS AT VIXA.
321
rusecl by the general reader, I shall not hesitate to
make use of’ it.
Vixa, with its dependencies, forms one of the
most extensive iron-works in Russia, and is situated
in the forest of Murom. This forest is a tract of
more than fifty versts in length, which stretches
along the right bank of the Oka, above that town.
At the depth of sixty feet below the surface of the
earth, are found a series of beds of iron-stone of va¬
riable quality. The mines, if they may be so
called, are in several parts of the forest; the prin¬
cipal about two or three versts from the ferry over
the Oka, on the road from Vixa to Murom. Here
the whole surface of the ground appears as if
covered by large mole-hills; they are heaps with
which the old pits are covered up. The pre¬
sent system of working is to sink a shaft, as if for
a well, till it meets the bed of ore, and to raise
what lies within the circumference, and perhaps a
little more, all round, and then to close the shaft
and sink another as near to the old one as conve¬
nient. In this manner the whole ground is per¬
forated with small holes as near together as they
can be placed: no gallery is driven, and all the ore
is got out by a shaft immediately above the spot
where it lies. The reason given for this apparently
expensive mode of working is, that the ore lying
so near the surface, it is little more expensive to
arrive at it through a soft bed of sand, in which it
is easy to sink shafts, than to drive galleries, for
VOL. II. Y
322
IRON-WORKS AT VIXA.
which much timber and machinery might be neces¬
sary, since the sand, from its loose texture, would
require a vast structure below to support it: yet
there is a superabundance of timber in the imme¬
diate neighbourhood. But the fact is, that most
probably the experiment of driving galleries was
never made, although they would lead to the saving
of an immense deal of labour; and, in the middle of
a forest in the government of Vladimir, wood
costs but a trifle. The mines have been so profit¬
able, as they are worked, that the proprietors have
been less anxious for improvements. About fifty
years since, the late owner, Batashof, who, with his
brother, had been engaged in the iron-works at
Tula, and who possessed a certain knowledge of
this part of the country, imagined that the iron¬
stone of the government of Tula was likely to ex¬
tend into the forest of Murom. He followed,
therefore, the course of the Oka, and, finding
pieces of iron ore on the banks of the river, was in¬
duced to try whether it existed in situ in the
neighbourhood. He actually found that its strata
were at an inconsiderable depth below the surface on
the right bank. This discovery was made in the
forest of Murom, then almost uninhabited, except
by banditti, who were then in force sufficient to
oblige him to take an escort of Kozaks in the re¬
searches which he made for ore. Being satisfied
of the quality of what he found, he bought, at an
extremely low rate, a vast extent of the forest, then
TRICK OF POST-BOOItS.
323
crown-land; and lie now possesses, in the midst of
the barren wilderness,—besides a large country-
house with English and Italian gardens, a theatre,
a bazar, and a market,—eleven separate iron-works,
at from four to twenty versts’ distance, handsome
churches, villages, and 30,000 inhabitants, as his
share in the adventure. *
At Murom we paid for five horses, though our
podorojne only obliged us to pay for four. We
were astonished, therefore, to see eight put to the
carriage, and that three post-boors accompanied
us, the coachman, the postilion, and one who sat
behind, and who made pretensions that he was
only going to the ferry of the Oka. After ad¬
vancing about a verst, four of the horses were
taken out of the carriage, and the drag was used,
on account of a rapid and long descent to the
banks of the Oka, which is here a beautiful and
magnificent river, nearly a verst in breadth. The
carriage was placed upon a great plank floor, which
was fixed upon two boats, and we reached the op¬
posite side. The deep sands through which we
had now to make our way formed but too sure a
prelude of the kind of road we were to expect for
thirty-one versts, the length of this station. Now
that we had crossed the water, the coachman be¬
gan to make new terms, and wished to be paid for
* Vide An Outline of the Geology of Russia, by the Hon.
W. T. H. F. Strangways, in the Transactions of the Geological
Society, Second Series, vol. i. part first, 1822.
324
MONAKOVO AND
six horses. By this time we discovered that the
three post-boors had arrived at Murom, from Mo¬
nakovo, to which they must return, and that
they had given one of their horses (for each had
a troika, or three horses) for a colonel’s carriage,
to suit their own convenience; and while they were
all to be carried with us, wished to make a “ good
bargain.” After much squabbling and delay, the
horses were again put to, and we proceeded by a
heavy road. Even with eight horses our progress
was extremely slow. Neither promises of liberal
drink-money, nor entreaties, nor menaces, influ¬
enced the driver to quicken his pace, which did not
exceed the rate of three and a half and four miles
in the hour. The road was heavy, but it also ap¬
peared that these men were determined to annoy
us. On showing greater anxiety to get on, the
heaviness of the carriage was urged as an excuse.
We therefore obliged the third man, who sat behind
it, and who added to the weight, to dismount. He
persisted in regaining his place, and we were at
length compelled to force him off. The coachman
now refused to go without him, and jumped from
the dickey. As the postilion sat still, our servant
took the coachman’s place. Leaving the coach¬
man and the third post-boor on the road, seven
versts distant from the station, we drove on, not
thinking sufficiently of what might have been the
consequence. When within a short distance from
Monakovo, which stands near tiie top of a hill, all
ROGUERY OF ITS SMOTrItEL.
325
at once, from walking, the postilion merrily put the
horses upon the trot. The moment we remarked that
we were upon a declivity, we called out to him to
stop, but it was in vain. We got into a gallop,
and passed the post-house at full speed, and only
were able to stop at the ascent of the adjoining
hill.
At the post-house they assured us there were no
horses, and a German colonel and an Englishman,
who were travelling together, had been detained
three hours, although they had examined the re¬
gister-books, and found that all the horses were not
absent. As we expected, on reflection, we could
do nothing till our coachman should make his ap¬
pearance, and had he chosen to have concealed
himself for a day, two days, or longer, we could
not have proceeded. This, luckily, was not the
case, and in a couple of hours he arrived. We had
taken care to arrange the business by the usual ex¬
pedient of a bribe, so as not to be detained by the
coachman, and to procure horses. There were no
less than twenty horses in the stable, and the gen¬
tlemen of whom I have spoken, had been detained
merely because they would not sufficiently bribe
the motritel. Our horses being ready harnessed,
we were begged to wait till their carriage was des¬
patched in the opposite direction, that the roguery
might not be detected. Had we refused com-
pliance, plans would have been resorted to which
would have caused great annoyance; therefore,
326 boghok6dskoye.—nijni-novgorod.
(
while we felt indignant at injustice, we were glad
to be silent.
The road from Murom to Monakovo, is for the
most part flat, and abounds in woods $ towards
Monakovo it became hilly. From hence to Nijni-
Novgorod, the face of the country is very pleasing,
generally open near the road, and with woods in
the distance, every where undulating, and often
presenting extensive views and great tracts of corn
fields and pastures. Forty versts from Nijni-Nov-
gorod, at the junction of another road, which also
conducts to that town, stands the villa of Count
Sheremetof, a large and lordly establishment, but
in great disorder, called Boghorodskoye. This villa
is the more remarkable, because but few residences
of the nobility meet the eye on the line of road
from Moscow to Nfjni-Novgorod. The adjoining
village contains many peasants.
On the morning of the 1st August, according to
appointment, we joined our companions, who ar¬
rived at Nijni-Novgorod three days before us, and
took up our residence in a remarkably pleasant
house, in the elevated part of the town, which
commands a beautiful view of the confluence of the
two great rivers, the Oka and the Volga.
The Volga *, one of the most celebrated rivers
in Europe, takes its rise in the government of Tver;
and, after a course of above 4000 versts through
* Karamzin has written a poem called “ The Volga.'
' THE VOLGA.—THE OKA.
327
the governments of Yaroslaf, Kostrom, Nijni-Nov-
gorod, Kazan, Simbirsk, Saratofj and Astrachan,
disembogues itself into the Caspian Sea by seventy
branches, amid a multitude of islands. By numer¬
ous rivers which fall into it, it is connected with a
great part of the Russian empire ; hence its im¬
mense importance for communication and commer¬
cial purposes. In its whole course it has no cata¬
racts nor dangerous passages, but its depth slowly
and gradually diminishes. It is one of the richest
rivers known for fish, and especially those of great
size.
The Oka rises in the government of Orel, and
then flows through the governments of Kaluga,
Moscow, Tula, lliasan, Tambof, and Vladimir •>
among the richest in the empire. In its course it
receives the Ugra, the Moskva, the Kliasma, and
the Oussa, &c. &c. It is also well stocked with fish.
Being navigable almost from its source, it is of the
greatest utility for commerce.
CHAP. XXII.
HISTORY OF NIJNI-NOVGOROD. — ITS FINE SITUATION.— WELL
ADAPTED FOR COMMERCE.— MIGHT BE THE CAPITAL OF RUS¬
SIA.— ITS DIVISIONS.—CATHEDRALS.— CHURCHES.—POPULA¬
TION-BAZARS AT M AKARIEF BURNED.—PLAN OF GENERAL
BETANCOURT_OBJECTIONS TO IT.-UNAVOIDABLE DIFFI¬
CULTIES.— NEW BAZARS AT NIJNI-NOVGOROD. — DISMISSAL
OF GENERAL BETANCOURT.—DESCRIPTION OF THE BAZARS.-
MERCHANDISE AT THEM IN 1821 AND 1823. -MERCHANDISE
AT MAKARIEF IN 1813. — AMUSEMENTS AT NIJNI-NOVGOROD.
— ANECDOTE.— LODGINGS.—INNS.—STEAM-BOATS.—DEPAR¬
TURE IN COMPANY WITH RUSSIAN MERCHANTS.-GOROCHO-
VETS.—VIASNIKI.—VLADIMIR.—PEKRA.—GORENKI BOTANIC
GARDENS.—■ THEIR DIRECTOR, DIt. FISCIIER.-COUNT RASU-
MQVSKIl,—GORENKI GOING TO RUIN.—NEW BOTANIC GARDEN
HISTORY OF NIJNI-NOVGOROD
329
AT PETERSBURGH.—THE LATE COUNT A. K. RASUMO VSKIl\s
AFFAIRS EMBARRASSED.— RUSSIAN NOBLES NOTORIOUS FOR
GETTING INTO DEBT.—ANECDOTE. ILLUSTRATION. CHA¬
RACTER OF THE RUSSIANS. — ARRIVAL AT MOSCOW. — NEW
FACTS RESPECTING IT. —THE EMPEROR ALEXANDER DIS¬
PLEASED WITH THE AUTHOR. — CHARACTER OF COLONEL
BOUTOURLIN’s WORK. — RUSSIAN ARMYS RETREAT TO FILI
IN 1812 .— COUNCIL OF WAR.—THE RUSSIAN AND THE FRENCH
ARMIES. — DECISION OF PRINCE KUTUSOF.— RUSSIAN ARMY
RETREATS THROUGH MOSCOW TO THE KOLOMNA ROAD. -
ENTRY OF THE FRENCH INTO MOSCOW.-THE QUESTION, WHO
BURNT MOSCOW ?- THE RUSSIANS THEMSELVES THE IN¬
CENDIARIES. - CAUSE OF THEIR DENIAL OF THIS DEED.—
THEIR AVOWAL OF IT NOW. — EXTRAORDINARY CONDUCT OF
COUNT ROSTOPCH1N. — MOSCOW BURNED PAR QUELQUE PER-
SONNAGE A GRAND CARACTERE . — CONDUCT OF THE EMPEROR
ALEXANDER, AND OF RUSSIAN AUTHORS. — A MYSTERY. —
THE EMPEROR OR KUTUSOF THE GRAND INCENDIARY OF
MOSCOW. —EFFECT OF THE CONFLAGRATION. —RETREAT OF
THE RUSSIAN ARMY. — IMPOLITIC CONDUCT. — THE RUIN OF
THE FRENCH ARMY.
Nijni-novgouod is the capital of the government
of the same name. It is often called Nije-Gorod ;
and, frequently, for convenience, simply Nfjni, —
Gorod being understood. The word Ntjni means
inferior, and was added so as to distinguish this
town from Novgorod, sometimes called Veliki, or
Great Novgorod, of which I shall soon have occa¬
sion to speak.
As Nijni-Gorod has long been one of the chief
towns in Russia, and has of late years acquired an
extraordinary degree of importance in consequence
330
HISTORY OF NIJNI-NOVGOROD.
of the translation to it of the celebrated fair, which
was formerly held at Makarief, it deserves a very
particular description.
According to some, Nijni-Novgorod was founded
in 1222 ; and to others, in 1227, by George Vsevo-
lodovitch III. For a long time it was the resi¬
dence of the princes of Suzdal and of Nijni-Nov¬
gorod. In 1227 George Vsevolodovitch chased
the Morduans from its environs, after having ruined
their establishments, and gave possession of it to
Russian colonies. In 1303 these barbarians re¬
turned to its neighbourhood, and waged war, but
luckily they were discomfited. After various suc¬
cessful irruptions of the Tartars, Prince Dmitrii
Konstantinovitch, no longer hoping to be able to
defend himself, retired to his third son at Suzdal.
Nijni-Novgorod was then abandoned by most of the
inhabitants, who ascended the Oka toward Goro-
dets and Murom. The few who remained in it
were massacred by the Tartars ; they also pillaged
and burnt the town and the neighbouring villages,
and carried many of the women into captivity.
After this period it was frequently invaded and
ruined by the same enemies. It also suffered by
famine, and was reduced to nothing by frequent
fires.
Nijni-Novgorod is famous as the birthplace of
the butcher Minin, by whose patriotic conduct,
and that of the brave Pojarskii, Russia was saved
FINE SITUATION OF NIJNl-NOVCOKOD.
.‘331
when about to fall a prey to her enemies in the be¬
ginning of the 17 th century. To their memory
the Emperor Alexander has erected a fine monu¬
ment at Moscow*, which the inhabitants of Nijni-
Novgorod think ought to have been placed in this
town,; but assuredly the birthplace of Pojarskii
might claim the same distinction. Under every
point of view, I am of opinion that a better site
could not have been chosen than that on which it
stands.
The geographical position of Nijni-Novgorod
is under 44° 18' E. long, and 56° 16' N. lat.; at
the distance of 1120 versts from Petersburg]!, and
390 from Moscow. The situation of this town is
very striking and picturesque. It occupies a tri¬
angular elevation, almost deserving the appellation
of promontory, at the confluence of the Volga and
the Oka. The hill is extremely steep, rising almost
from the water’s edge. Its summit, which is
included by the Kremle, is above 400 feet above
the usual level of these rivers. This high ground
is intersected by numerous deep ravines, even in
the middle of the town. From the summit of the
hill may sometimes be seen a phenomenon, similar
to what has been observed in some other places.
After their junction, the blue waters of the Volga
are seen to flow uniformly along the left side of the
* Vide Character of the Russians, p. 296 .and the accompany¬
ing representation of the Monument.
332
NIJNI-NOVGOROD WELL.
channel; while those of the Oka, which are often
muddy, as regularly keep along the right. From
their point of union, the difference of colour is too
striking to be overlooked by the most casual ob¬
server ; and it is nearly as distinct as far as the
eye can reach. The Hon. Mr. Strangway thinks
the explanation of this fact very simple. “The
Volga above Nijni-Novgorod,” says he, “ as well
as the greater part of its tributary streams, flows
through a tract of country almost universally
covered with sand; the Oka, on the contrary,
flows through a country of rich red marl, in its
strongest and most argillaceous form : neither of
the two rivers being sufficiently rapid to disturb
immediately the new body of water with which it
comes in contact, the effect above described is
naturally produced.”
The situation of Nijni-Novgorod, at the con¬
fluence of the two principal rivers of central
Russia, which thus connect the two richest and
most populous districts of the empire—the provinces
immediately south of Moscow, and those on the
Upper Volga — is singularly adapted for com¬
merce, independently of its more distant connec¬
tions. Here, naturally, centers not only the greatest
internal trade of the empire; but, by different lines
of navigation, Nijni-Novgorod has a three-fold
communication with the provinces of the north,
and with the Baltic ; and by means of the Oka
and the Moskva, with Moscow, itself. The Kama,
ADAPTED FOR COM MERCK. 333
which meets the Volga beyond Kazan, brings all
the produce of Siberia, the iron and copper of the
Ural mountains, the gold and silver of Kolyvan,
and the beryls, amethysts, and topazes of Nert-
chinsk. The trade with China is also carried on
by means of this river. The merchandise of cen¬
tral Asia, as well as that of the south of Russia
and Persia, comes partly from Astrachan and other
places in the Caspian Sea, by the navigation of the
Lower Volga, and partly by caravans, which
arrive on the banks of that river in different parts
of its course. European commodities are chiefly
furnished from Moscow, Petersburgh, and Odessa.
The great commercial advantages of Nijni-Nov-
gorod, together with its situation in the centre of
one of the most fertile districts in Russia, — in
most of which particulars it has a great superiority
both over Petersburgh and Moscow, —are believed
to have inspired Peter the Great with the idea
of making it the capital of the Russian empire.*
James affirms, it is beyond a doubt, that it was not
the original intention of Peter the Great to have
erected his new capital at Petersburgh ; and that
a plan is preserved in the imperial archives,
which details a scheme for building a great city at
Nfjni-Novgorod, and there fixing the imperial re¬
sidence. “ Seated at the conflux of the Volga and
* Transact, of the Geolog. Society, Second Series, vol. i.
p. ‘i t. Vide also pp. 16—19.
33i NUNI-NOVGOKOD MIGHT BE THE CAPITAL.
the Oka, in a country the most fertile, and in a
central point that would have united the seat of
supreme power with the natural focus of commer¬
cial circulation, it would have possessed numerous
advantages that Petersburgh can never attain;
neither was it to be disregarded, that its locality
would have enabled the government, at all times,
to check and overcome, with little effort, the
several more remote parts of the empire.” Indeed
its geographical position in the centre of the
empire, at the conflux of two great rivers, as well
as its fine situation, surrounded by a fertile coun¬
try, rendered it worthy of being the capital of
Russia; and it is ever to be regretted, that the plan
of Peter the Great had not been carried into exe¬
cution.
Nijni-Novgorod may be divided into the high
part and the low part. The former contains
several good streets; in the principal one of which
stand the houses of the civil governor, and of many
resident nobles. It also includes the ancient for¬
tress, called the Kremle, which is partly situated
on the summit, and partly on the declivity of a
hill. The Kremle was surrounded by strong walls
and towers in the year 1508. From its ramparts
may be enjoyed beautiful views of the Volga, the
Oka, and the neighbouring country. It contains
two cathedrals. In that dedicated to the Trans¬
figuration, repose the remains of the famous Minin.
The other cathedral is dedicated to St. Michail.
CATHEDRALS.—CHURCHES.
335
Both edifices are built after the model of the ca¬
thedrals at Moscow. In the Kremle also stands
an immense structure for the tribunals, but it was
lately burned, and is now in a ruinous condition.
The inconvenience of communication between
the high and the low parts of Nijni-Novgorod, is
excessive. The grand street by which the post
enters this town being paved, or rather floored witli
wood which is usually very slippery, and the bad
footing for the horses, added to the steepness of
the descent, make it very dangerous even for an
empty carriage. The road of communication
through the Kremle is difficult, but infinitely less
so, than that just alluded to. The low part of the
town is chiefly formed by a very long street, which
runs along the course of the Volga, and which is
very dirty in wet weather. A new edifice, like a
bazar, which had not been opened, numerous good
houses along both its sides, a fountain near its
west extremity, and the house of General Betan¬
court, are its chief ornaments. This last building
is opposite an elegant bridge, across the Oka,
which is erected upon thirty pontoons, and which,
with a continuation over an inlet of that river, is
more than a verst in length.
At Nijni-Novgorod, there are three convents
and twenty-six churches, which give it a fine
appearance; many of them being in very con¬
spicuous situations, and adorned with gilded domes.
This town is the residence of an archbishop, and
336
POPULATION OF NIJNI-NOVGOUOD.
contains a public seminary and school. Its shops
and magazines are generally well stored, and espe¬
cially with grain. It also possesses a number of
distilleries, breweries, tanneries, soap-works, &c.
Fifteen years ago, the resident population of
Nfjni-Novgorod amounted to 10,000 souls, of
whom nearly 1000 were merchants, and above
1000 burghers. The number of houses in the
whole town, was then 1826, of which only twenty-
five were built of stone. Some thousand barges
annually passed by the rivers already mentioned;
and, during the active season, the population was
augmented to 60,000 or 70 , 000 . The number of
fixed residents now amounts to 20,000 or 25,000
souls. The great annual fair now held at Nfjni-
Novgorod has given a strong impulse to popula¬
tion, which has been doubled within the last few
years. It was said, that during the fair, it was
sometimes as high as 140,000 or even 150,000;
but-this statement seems somewhat extravagant,
and probably includes the whole number of persons
who were present during the course of the fair,
which lasts about two months, but who were not
there at the same period of time.
On his advance to Siberia, Captain Cochrane
reports, that the inhabitants of Nfjni-Novgorod
amounted to 15,000 or 16,000; though its visitors,
during the fair, probably made its population, at
that time, from 120,000 to 150,000. On his re¬
turn, however, about two years afterwards, i. e. in
BAZARS AT MAKARIEF BURNED.
337
1823, lie states the resident population at 30,000. *
Let us now turn our attention to the history of
the fair at Nijni-Novgorod, which long ago had
its origin at Makarief; a town whose name is de¬
rived from an adjoining monastery, which was
built in the fourteenth century.
Makarief lies upon the right bank of the Volga,
near the place where the river Kurgenets falls
into it, and at the distance of eighty-four versts
from Nijni-Novgorod. It was called a district
town, though it only contained 260 male inha¬
bitants, and a single church. The great annual
fair of Makarief was held near the convent just
mentioned. It was well known over Europe and
Asia, and generally lasted six weeks or two months.
In 1817, the town and bazars of Makarief were
burned, some say by accident, but others entertain
suspicions that it was done on purpose to have a
pretence for removing its fair to Nijni-Novgorod.
This step met with great opposition, as was
natural, especially from those who would be losers
by the change. After it was definitively resolved
that the fair should be no longer held at Maka¬
rief) Nijni-Novgorod, Kazan, Boghorodskoye Selo
near the mouth of the Kama, and Simbirsk, were
all represented as eligible situations for its re¬
establishment. General Betancourt, by birth a
Spaniard, who has distinguished himself as a civil
* Cochrane’s Narrative, p. 83.
VOL. II.
Z
:33S PLAN OF BETANCOURT.— OBJECTIONS TO IT.
engineer, and by his mechanical genius, especially
in the erection of the very extraordinary edifice
at Moscow, called the Exercise-House # , was em¬
ployed to examine the whole business, and to make
a report to His Imperial Majesty. After can¬
vassing all the objections pro and con the different
proposed situations, Nijni-Novgorod got the pre¬
ference ; and, I believe, with good reason. At
the same time it must be allowed, that formidable
objections, and of a nature which could not strike
the cursory observer, even here opposed the erec¬
tion of bazars for a vast market. The plain which
is now occupied by the magnificent bazars on the
left bank of the Oka, and opposite Nijni-Novgorod,
being purely alluvial, or, in other words, a sort of
Delta formed by the Oka, is subject to regular
floods from the waters of both rivers. It happens,
rather unfortunately, that the Volga, and its
affluents coming from the north, while the Oka
flows directly from the south, the difference of
climate between the tracts of country that are
* The Exercise-House is one of the most extraordinary
edifices in the universe; and is unique for its magnitude upon
the same principles. It is 560 feet in length, 168 in breadth,
and forty-two in height, and is furnished with an enormous self-
supporting roof. Not a single column, partition-wall, or but¬
tress, assists in its support. The whole interior of the buildin
is a vast oblong space, without any incumbrance, and has
magnificent appearance. I have particularly described and
represented it in “ The Character of the Russians, and a
Detailed History of Moscow,” p.335.
fcJO c3
DIFFICULTIES UNAVOIDABLE.
339
drained by these two rivers, is sufficiently great to
cause a difference in the time of their respective
inundations. Thus, the ice on the upper part of
the Oka, and the snows of the adjoining country,
sometimes break up a month earlier than those of
the Volga, and other northern rivers, and the sur¬
rounding territories. Hence it happens, that when
the waters of the Oka naturally subside, the flood
is prolonged, increased or renewed, by those of
the Volga.
In addition to the inconvenience caused at Nfjni-
Novgorod by the prolonged inundation above ex¬
plained, the action of the Volga and the Oka on
their banks presents an evil of considerable mag¬
nitude. Near their confluence, these two rivers
describe the segment of a very large circle, the
concavity of which is, in both cases, on their right
bank. Here, of course, a destructive action takes
place, whilst the left bank of each river becomes
the deposit of whatever they leave behind. The
right bank of the Oka is lofty and precipitous, and
though ages may revolve before the action of this
river can do material damage to the town, yet there
is merely room for one narrow street at the foot of
the hill, and it is annually inundated. The right
bank of the Volga, on the other hand, is a low and
sandy alluvial accumulation, being, in fact, only
one side of that sort of Delta which the Oka has
deposited at its mouth. Of this large portions are
annually carried away by the current, and thrown
340
DIFFICULTIES UNAVOIDABLE.
upon the left bank, where an extensive sandy plain
lias been formed which is intersected by small
branches of the river. The islands which these
surround are covered with low brushwood, and are
still flooded annually. This plain therefore is not
cultivated; and as the land behind has but little
elevation, it is not immediately perceived that it is
as fertile, and as much inhabited as the high
grounds on the south bank of the river. The Oka
in like manner deposits on its left bank all that it
brings down from the right; so that this alluvial
triangle is annually gaining on one side while it is
losing on the other; a considerable deposit being
also left on the surface of the plain itself. It has
been necessary, however, to raise the surface ten,
fifteen, and even twenty feet, in order to keep the
water out of the bazars ; the necessary quantity of
earth having been chiefly supplied from the exca¬
vation of the canal which surrounds the establish¬
ment. A protection is also required to prevent
the ravages of the Volga.
The eligibility of the site of the bazars seems
very questionable, in consequence of the danger of
an inundation during the flood of the Volga and
the Oka. Should it ever happen, by any fortuitous
circumstances, that the great flood of these two
l'ivers takes place at the same time, the bazars,
indeed, might be swallowed up, or at least de¬
stroyed. Capt. Cochrane is of opinion that the
canal which has been cut around the bazars, con-
DIFFICULTIES UNAVOIDABLE.
341
tributes to weaken its foundation, because the
canal lies streannvard of the fair (bazar), and con¬
sequently, at the rises or freshes of the river, is
liable to be completely overflowed. He adds,
“ when it is recollected that the last overflowing
(flood) of the Volga formed a new bank seven
feet high above the common bed of the river
between the city and the fair (bazar), it is not too
much to fear that it may serve to change the course
of the river whose extra rise (flood) was last year
thirty-five feet. And should the new-formed bank
prove a solid foundation, and resist for some years
the impetuosity of the stream, there will then be
no other outlet but the very site of the fair (bazar),
as it stands nearly opposite to the place where the
Oka discharges its waters into the Volga.” * In
another place this gentleman says he feels far from
convinced of “ the durability or safety” of the new
bazars, on account of the incroachments of the
Volga.
It may be asked, why the weak and perishable
angle between the Volga and the Oka was chosen
for the site of the bazars, in preference to the more
solid one on the opposite bank ? The fact is, that
there was not room at the foot of the hill for a
bazar, a tenth part of the size required; and even
tlie small space there, is annually lessened or en¬
dangered by the action of the Volga on the north,
* Narrative of a Pedestrian Journey, p. 83.
342
NEW BAZARS AT NUNI-NOVGOROD.
and of the Oka on the west; both rivers here con¬
spiring to destroy the hill. The hill itself is too
uneven to admit of regular buildings of the neces¬
sary size, without being endangered by the ravines
formerly noticed, whose banks are nearly as inse¬
cure as those of the river, not to speak of the
labour and risk of bringing heavy goods up a steep
of four hundred feet in height, all of which must
descend again to be transhipped. The only good
situation for the bazars on this side the river, is
already occupied by the Krfmle of Nijni-Novgorod,
and even it is very objectionable.*
General Betancourt gave the plan of the present
existing bazars at Nfjni-Novgorod, and the details
were filled up by the architect Montferon. In
1822, seven millions and a half of roubles had been
already expended upon the undertaking, and the
buildings were not finished. Another million and
a half had been granted by the Emperor for their
completion. As a reimbursement for this immense
expenditure, it is calculated that the annual re¬
venue of the bazars, when complete* will amount
to 700,000 or 800,000 roubles.
Some disagreement had taken place between the
government and General Betancourt, who was
* I am indebted to the Hon. Mr. St rang ways for a number
of the preceding remarks; but as I have made many changes,
and some additions, they could not be marked as quotations.
See Transactions of the Geolog. Society, Second Series, vol. i.
p. 24—26.
DISMISSAL OF BETANCOURT.-BAZARS.
313
accused of mal-administration of the public money.
The Emperor, it was said, was partial to him, and
even defended him. However this may be, the
General was not at Nijni-Novgorod when we were
there, and an officer of high rank, who was one of
his coadjutors, had been made a common soldier.
It is a misfortune that it became expedient to re¬
move General Betancourt from the direction of
the great public works which he had so auspiciously
conducted, and which, it is not to be doubted, he
would have prosperously finished. He is succeeded
in his post by the Prince of Wirtemburgh; but, as
Capt. Cochrane says, “ whether His Highness is a
better engineer, I know not, but he does not bear
that character ; perhaps unjustly.”
General Betancourt was convinced that he would
have overcome every difficulty, and prevented every
danger which the prejudiced, the interested, or the
timid had anticipated, by the complete execution
of his plans, which generally deserve commendation.
The bazars at Nijni-Novgorod, I believe, form
the finest establishment of the kind in the world.
The situation on which they stand was raised,
as mentioned, ten, fifteen, and even twenty feet;
and no less than 5(),000 piles were driven into the
earth so as to secure a foundation for extensive
building's. The stone used in the new construe-
tions, is partly the hard tuf of Petchersk, which is
blasted by gunpowder; a white limestone from
the upper Oka; and, in part, a red sandstone,
z 4<
344
DESCRIPTION OF THE RAZAIIS
which is quarried at Novinski, about sixteen versts
up the Oka.* The bazars are enclosed on three
sides by canals, and on the fourth by an inlet of
the Oka, into which ladehed barges enter. The
number of shops enclosed by the canals, and the
oblong square formed by the government build¬
ings, amounts to nearly 3000. The principal street,
which runs between the church and the govern¬
ment buildings, is very spacious and elegant; and
all the others are of a good breadth. All the
edifices are two stories in height; the lower one
being the shop, and the upper serving as a maga¬
zine ; indeed many of the merchants fit up apart¬
ments in them for their temporary residence. Every
shop fronts two streets. Nothing can be more
simple and chaste than the general style of archi¬
tecture, which well accords with the utility of
the buildings. The Kitcuskia Linia, or Chinese Line,
is so called because it is ornamented with pagodas,
and other Eastern decorations. It is better known,
however, by the name Sibirskia Linia, or Siberian
Line. But it must not be understood that the
shops of this line are limited to the sale of Chinese
or Siberian merchandise; at least, in 1822, we found
all kinds of European manufactures in them, and
some of them were even hired by Englishmen.
The best shops are in the spacious central street.
* Vide Trans, of the Geol. Society, Second Series, vol. i.
AT NlJNI-NOVCJOllOD.
3 IS
m the Chinese Line, and at the corners of all the
streets. For some of them 1000 and even 1500
roubles are paid; for others 200 to 500 or 1000
roubles, according to circumstances. They are
only of use for the season, but are let for the whole
year. Now they are all stuccoed, and painted
yellow, and their roofs green or red. There are
three government buildings, which are plain but
handsome edifices, two stories high. The upper
story of the central building is occupied as the
residence of the governor during the fair, while
the inferior story is let as an inn, for a very large
sum. In the other two edifices are contained the
courts of justice, the post-office, the bank, &c. all
pro tempore. Vide vignette to this chapter.
Besides the stone edifices, here are 2220 wooden
shops, which form a variety of markets on the
town-side of the great bazar. They were erected
in the year 1818, when the fair was transported
from Makarief. Some said that they were to be
destroyed, so as to concentrate all the shops to the
grand, bazar: others reported that they were, on
the contrary, to remain, and to be repaired in a
more gaudy style.
Merchandise of all kinds, and from all the coun¬
tries of Europe and Asia, is now transported to
Nfjni-Novgorod, by the Volga, the Oka, the
Kama, and the other rivers which fall into them,
as well as by land. The quantity of Russian pro¬
duce disposed of is enormous; and, of course, the
'MERCHANDISE AT THE BAZARS.
31<G
fair of this town is a national concern of the Irish-
cst importance. Hence it deservedly merits the
greatest attention of the crown. The individual
who has been a frequent visitor of the “ Bargain¬
ing Shops,” or bazar, at Petersburgh or Moscow,
may easily conceive the appearance and the nature
of that at Nfjni-Novgorod, by supposing that the
goods and wares of the former, were placed in the
more beautiful and regular lines of shops of the
latter, and that the same variety of nations
crowded them and the streets.* Here are seen the
representatives of China, India, Tartary, Bucharia,
Persia, Circassia, Armenia, Turkey, and Greece ;
besides Italians, Poles, Germans, French, English,
Kozaks, Malo-Russians, and — the universal con¬
comitants of traffic and money—Jews.
For many years past, the sale and exchange of
goods at Makarief, but especially since 1818, at
Nijni-Novgorod, have amounted to immense sums ;
and now this fair, with great propriety, may be
reckoned one of the most extensive in Europe.
In consequence of the influx of merchants, and
travellers in general, it is excessively busy; al¬
though in 1S22, we heard heavy complaints of dull
sales. But the markets acquired a new life after
our departure, at an extraordinarily late period of
* The curious reader will find all the Moscow markets
described in “ The Character of the Russians, &c.” p. 278.
Vide also p.349. of this Volume.
AT N1JNI-NOVGOIIOJD-
317
the season, many of tlie Buchanans having been
detained.
Among the objects at the bazars which excited
our greatest curiosity, was an immense range ot
ironmongers’ shops or stalls, called balgdns, in
which iron in the bar, as well as worked into every
kind of instrument and utensil, was to be had.
The table hereafter given, shows that the sale of
iron, and iron articles alone, amounts to above
10,000,000 roubles. The fur-shops also merit parti¬
cular notice; and the reader will be astonished at
the value of their contents, the enormous sum of
30,000,000 roubles. As I have elsewhere enume¬
rated the chief kinds of this commodity disposed of
at Moscow, and as the same kinds are sold here, I
shall refer to the work alluded to.* The quantity
of grey and black frizzled Tartar lamb-skins seen
here is astonishing. The shops of the Buchanans
are visited by all strangers. Their silk sashes,
and gentlemen’s silk morning-gowns, are greatly
admired; and are sold at 100, 120, 150, and even
200 roubles each. They can be purchased cheaper
at Moscow than at Nijni-Novgorod. In a line of
small shops arc displayed immense quantities of
pearls, large and small, a great proportion of which,
however, are of very inferior quality. Most of
them are sold for the decoration of the holy
* “ Character of* the Russians, &c.” p. 281. See also p. Ml.
oi' tliis Volume-
31-S
31 Ell C M A N DI SIC AT THE BAZARS
images. Nothing can give a clearer idea of the
extent to which image-worship is carried on in
Russia, than the estimate of their value, 1,300,000
roubles, at the fair of Nijni-Novgorod; while, pro¬
bably, their real value was far above that sum.
Artificial stones, beads, ear-rings, and similar orna¬
ments, being low-priced, are seen in profusion.
A great display is also made of the china of Rus¬
sia, which has attained a considerable degree of
perfection, both in the quality of the material, in
the execution of the painting, and in the manner
of gilding, and other decorations, &c. But the
Russians fail greatly in giving a perfect regular
form to most articles, and it is very difficult to get
a set quite alike. One cause of this may be,
that in the houses of the Russian nobles, al¬
most every cup and saucer differs from another;
while a peculiarly and highly ornamented couple
are presented to the landlord and the lady of
the house. The same custom is often observed
at dinner. A finely cut and gilded wine-bottle,
and a decorated tumbler and wine-glass, &c. are
placed for the master and mistress of the mansion,
far superior in appearance to those of the rest
of the family, and (what is surprising) to those
of the guests, even when they are of the highest
rank — the Imperial family excepted. So it is,
that what would be reckoned an insult in some
countries is sanctioned by custom in others. The
The milliners’ shops, which were well supplied
OF NIJNI-NOVGOROD, IN THE YEAR 1821. 31-9
with every kind of article, seemed to be the centre
of fashion here, as at Moscow and Petersburgh.
The carriage-market contained a number of ca¬
lashes, britchkas, coaches, chaises, &c. of no imposing-
appearance, and many of them second-hand, but
generally at a low price. A number of Kazan
kibitlcas , which are famous over Russia, are annu¬
ally sold here. In the horse-markets and tempo¬
rary stables we saw a great number of horses,
some of which were fine animals, and well deserved
the examination of the amateur ; but the greatest
part were of very common breeds, and of very
inferior appearance. Besides the traffic in the
shops, much business is also transacted on board
the barges in the Oka. Many of these were filled
with the finest cured fish of the Don and the
Volga. No barrels are employed, the boats being
made on purpose to contain fish ; and, of course,
to retain their brine.
The following is a translation of the list of
goods and capital announced at the Director’s
Office, at the fair of Nijni-Novgorod, in the year
1821. We were told that, probably to save ex¬
penses, they were estimated at no more than a
third of their real value ; a statement which is not
to be credited.
Merchandise, &c.
Siberian and Moscow furs -
Armenian goods -
In the Siberian or Chinese line -
Booksellers’ line -
Roubles.
- 36 , 000,000
- 5 , 900,000
- 31 , 000,000
500,000
350 MERCHANDISE AT
Merchandise, &c.
THE
BAZARS
Roubles.
Hatters’ line -
-
-
419,000
Russian line -
-
-
5,175,000
Small silver plate and pearls
-
-
1,500,000
Large silver plate
.
-
5,500,000
Russian brocades, lace, Sec.
-
-
18,000,000
Cloth ....
-
-
5,000,000
Silk, cambric, Dutch linen
-
-
30,633,000
Silk girdles -
-
-
1,500,000
Writing-paper -
-
-
500,000
Fruits -
-
-
1,800,000
Spices and drugs
-
-
10,000,000
Wax and tallow candles -
-
-
500,000
Russian dresses (ready made)
-
-
490,000
Needles, pins, and artificial stones
-
2,465,000
Stockings and Tricoterie -
-
-
9,476,000
Copper and tin
-
-
2,308,000
Bells -
-
-
3,000,000
Locks, instruments, &c. -
-
-
1,997,000
Images, (pictures of the saints.
> Sec.)
-
1,300,000
Dressmakers* goods -
-
-
800,000
Porcelain -
-
-
580,000
Furniture and looking-glasses
-
-
740,000
Wine and brandy
-
-
6,580,000
Iron -
-
-
10,500,000
Bucharian goods
-
-
8,158,000
Soap -
-
-
2,200,000
Siberian and Makarief chests
-
-
800,000
Snuff - -
-
-
100,000
Winter (fur) boots
-
-
500,000
Mats -
-
-
800,000
Clocks and watches
-
-
165,000
Carriages -
-
-
200,000
Book-cases and glass
-
-
55,000
Wine-glasses -
-
-
658,000
Wire ....
-
-
80,000
Cordage -
-
-
1,500,000
Provisions sold in retail
-
-
200,000
Raw hides -
-
-
1,365,000
OK NUNI-NOVGOROD, IN 1821 AND 1823.
351
Merchandise, &c.
Roubles.
Worked metals -
400,000
Bakers’ goods -
80,000
Butchers’ ditto -
90,000
Ilay and oats -
60,000
Potash, soda, sheep-skins -
- 3,275,000
Public houses -
25,000
Inns -
150,000
Money-changers -
- 10,160,000
Horses.
- 1,160,000
Total - - 226,344,000 *
Of course we must not conceive that above half
of the goods were sold. Hence Captain Cochrane
remarks: “ The fair, in point of value, is con¬
sidered as second to none in Europe ; the business
done being estimated at nearly 200,000,000 of
roubles. This computation may, probably, allow a
deduction of about one-half; but, in any case,
the government derives from it a considerable
revenue.” As the fair of Nfjni-Novgorod ac¬
quires new interest every day, and as a great
quantity of British goods are annually transported
thither, the following specification of merchandise
sold at this fair in 1823, I think, will be interest¬
ing and useful. In the Stone Bazars ,—Tea, about
37,000 tsibiks (each sixty pounds), from 280 to
GOO and even to 800 paper roubles, 12,000,000:
— Sugar, about 60,000 poods, from thirty to
forty-five, 2,000,000; — Coffee, about 3,000
poods, from seventy to eighty-five, 240,000; —
* It was 230,911,883 in the original, but was evidently a
mistake.
352
MERCHANDISE AT TIIE BAZARS
Damask, velvet, stuffs, silk, mohairs, 13,500,000;
— Lace, gold cords', &c. 500,000; — Different
kinds of silk, as gros de Tours, Persian, satin,
handkerchiefs, &c. 10,000,000 ; — Woollen stuffs,
as Cashemirs, merinos, camelots, &c. 2,500,000; —
Half-silk and half-cotton stuffs, 2,500,000;—Mus¬
lin, coarse cotton cloth, linen, &c. 5,000,000 ; —
Table-cloths and napkins, 210,000; — Cloth,
kerseymeres, frieze, &c. 4,800,000; — Nankeens,
4SO,000; — Russian nankeens, 400,000;— Russian
linen, 250,000 ; — Sable, polecat, squirrel, bear,
wolf skins, &c. 5,000,000; — Hare and sheep¬
skins, common pelisses (tooloops), 100,000; —
Stockings of all kinds, nightcaps, covers, gloves,
350,000; — Hats and bonnets of every kind,
the hair of hares, &c. 160,000; — Made clothes,
200,000 ; — White unbleached cotton from Bu-
charia, 2,900,000; — Spun cotton, white and red,
250,000; — Stuffs and nightgowns of Bucharian
and Persian silk, 700 , 000 ; — Different kinds of
silk, 400,000; — Modes, robes, shawls, handker¬
chiefs, pearls, precious stones, and different kinds
of clothes, 1,280,000; — Silver plate, sacred vases
and utensils, tea-services, spoons, &c. 1,200,000; —
Other similar utensils in copper and tin, 560,000;
— Clocks, 145,000 ; — Paper and wax, 400,000 ; —
Needles and pins, false pearls, glass, yellow am¬
ber, beads, and other (bagatelles) trifles, 900,000 ;
— Carpenters’ tools, copper, iron, guns, pistols,
sabres, tea-urns from Tula, 540,000; — Different
OF NIJNI-NOVGOROD IN 1823. 353
fruits, confections, cheese, olives, capers, Provence
oil, and lemon juice, 706,000 ; — Toys, 25,000; —
All kinds of candles, 205,000 ; — Books, maps,
paintings, images of the saints, 210,000; — Phy¬
sical, optical, and musical instruments, 50,000; —
Morocco shoes, shammy leather, embroidered boots,
265,000; — Tanned goatskins, Moroccos, Rus¬
sian leather, 300,000 ; — Untanned horse, ox,
veal, goat, and sheepskins, 3S0,000; — Harness,
120,000.
In the Wooden Bazars, different kinds of paints,
alum, sulphur, saltpetre, vitriol, naphtha, &c.
3,600,000; — Furniture and glass, 577>000; —
Porcelain, 525,000 ; — Crystal, 515,000 ; — Dif¬
ferent kinds of trunks and work-boxes, common
sheep-skin caps, socks and mittens of carded wool,
175,000 ; Cables, cords, and mats, 180,000; —
Tobacco and snuff 100,000 ;—Pot-ashes and buck-
ashes, 108,000 ; — Soaps, 835,000 ; — Copper and
cast utensils from the smithies and founderies of
Siberia, 10,360,000 ; — Wines, spirits, liquors, and
other kinds of drink, 4,380,000. — General total,
94,380,000. According to the declaration of the
merchants, of these goods, there were sold for
50,000,000 R. an comptant. The gain is estimated
at 2,500,000 roubles. In the Stone-Bazars there
were let 12S6 shops, for the sum of 377)125 R.;
and, in the Wooden Bazars, 1551 shops for
132,537 R. Of the rents, fifteen per cent. viz.
76,2SOiVo is received for keeping the bridges in
VOL. 11 .
A A
354 MERCHANDISE AT MAKARIEF IN 1813.
repair. The fair ended on the 28th of August,
O. S.; the most advantageous business took place
toward its conclusion.*
The following data will enable the reader to
form a judgment, with respect to the increase of
commerce at Nijni-Novgorod, in comparison with
that when the national fair was held at Makarief.
In the year 1813, according to Hermann, there
were —
At Makarief Roubles.
Russian goods to the value of - 32,346,000
Foreign ditto - 11,224,000
Liskova, opposite Makarief
Russian goods to the value of - 8,584,359
Total 52,154,359
In 1811 the shop-rents at Makarief yielded the
sum of 112,017 roubles; and, in 1813, notwith¬
standing the melancholy effects of the invasion of
1812,-111,021 roubles.
In every sense of the word, the annual assem¬
blage of so many individuals, of different nations,
at Nijni-Novgorod, may be called a fair, both for
commerce and amusement. A wooden theatre is
fitted up, which is to be replaced by a stone edifice.
We attended a kind of circus, where we saw “ the
horse of knowledge,” “ dancing dogs,” exhibi-
* Vid e Bulletin Universal for June, 1824, under Economie
Publique, p. 449.
ANECDOTE. — LODGINGS. — INNS. 355
tions of wild animals, and other amusements, as at
Bartholomew, fair.
We were present at a ball given by the civil go¬
vernor, and were much amused by an account of a
very rich princess, who was of the party, and who
had been exchanging iron for silk plaids, shawls,
&c. quite d la Russe.
Great accommodations have of late been made
for travellers in Nijni-Novgorod, but still it is
difficult to procure good lodgings. Ours had
been previously hired, in consequence of letters
having been sent on purpose; but, although de¬
lightfully situated, they were at a distance from the
market, which proved a great inconvenience. They
cost very high, no less than 350 roubles for the
short time the party remained there; but, it is true,
that for the same sum they might have retained
them till the conclusion of the fair. The principal
inn, under the governor’s house, was kept in 1822,
by Le Due, a French restaurateur, who had been
long established at Moscow. Excellent dinners
were given at three roubles per person, and for five,
very superior ones. The wines were likewise good,
and every thing was in fine order. Le Due had
engaged to pay a great rent for the inn; but, as it
was crowded with visitors from morning till night,
there could not be a doubt that the speculation
would yield him a good profit. A number of Rus¬
sian inns on the town side of the canal, were
also in good repair. In one of them I dined well
2
A A
STEAM-BOATS.
350
for two roubles, but their common custom is
to give as many dishes as you ask up to six, at
fifty kopecks eacli for the gras, and sixty for the
maigre.
Mr. Baird, of Petersburg]!, who, in 1S15, re¬
ceived a patent for steam-boats throughout Russia
for ten years, and to whom belong all those which
ply between Petersburgh and Cronstadt, has united
with Mr. Ephreinofj and some other noblemen, to
send four of them to be employed between Nijni-
Novgorod, Astrachan, and the shores of the Cas¬
pian Sea, and it is calculated that an extensive com¬
merce will thus be established. Two of these steam¬
boats, which lay above the bridge which crosses the
Oka, excited uncommon attention in 1822, their
appearance-being quite novel to thousands of visi¬
tors. A party of pleasure having engaged one of
them, sailed some versts up the Volga with a band
of musicians playing, and rivetted the attention
of innumerable beholders, many of whom had
never before seen a boat in motion without the aid
of oars or wind. The interest of the details res¬
pecting Nijni-Novgorod will plead my excuse for
their length, but I must again return to the
journey.
After passing some days at Nijni-Novgorod, and
having concluded all necessary arrangements with
the party with whom I had been travelling, I was
obliged to return to Moscow on account of busi¬
ness, while they remained some time longer. Hav-
MY DEPARTURE WITH RUSSIAN MERCHANTS. 35J
mg no carriage of my own, I was glad to embrace
an offer made by one of the most respectable mer¬
chants of Tula, to give me a share of his, provided
I paid half the expenses of the post-horses. As
another Tula merchant and a Moscow merchant
were to accompany us in a kibitka , I was glad to
have so good an opportunity of travelling in a new
kind of society, which afforded me room for fresh
observations. These merchants turned out to be
among the best of their rank whom I have ever
met in Russia; they all behaved well to me;
and, what was rather surprising, they did not
attempt to overreach me, except on a single
occasion.
My companion had made a contract with private
boors that we should reach Moscow in four days,
and I was glad to find he had determined to follow
a line of road partly new to me, which is generally
taken by the merchants, and is said to be some
versts shorter than the post-road. They for the
most part travel in very light equipages, and of
course the frequent ascent and descent of interven¬
ing hills is of little consequence ; but this road
could not be easily followed by heavy carriages,
though better than the post-road.
The country through which we travelled was as
varied, and more pleasant, than that which we saw
in the parallel line of road by which we had ad¬
vanced. Soon after passing through the insignifi¬
cant town of Gorbatof, we crossed the Oka, which
A A S
358 GOllOCHOVETS.—VIASNIKl.—VLADflllR.—l’EKKA.
we found here broader than at Murom, and conti¬
nued our route to Gorochovets, another small dis¬
trict town in the government of Vladimir, upon
the right bank of the Ivliasma, and surrounded by
woods. It contains a monastery, three churches,
a linen fabric, and five tanneries. Its inhabitants
amount to 1500, and the women are said to make
thread which equals that of Holland. The only
other place worthy of notice was Viasniki, which
also lies upon the Ivliasma upon the declivity, and
at the base of a steep hill, and is enlivened greatly
by a convent, a couple of churches, and some large
linen fabrics, besides some excellent store-houses.
It is distinguished for the quality of its linen. It
likewise contains some tanneries. Its orchards
are famous for the excellent apples and cherries
which they produce. Its inhabitants amount to
about 1000.
On the morning of the third day after our depar¬
ture, we reached Vladimir, and thence continued
our journey toward Moscow by the same route by
which our party had advanced.
At the distance of twenty-one versts from Mos¬
cow, we had an opportunity of seeing Pekra, the
tine estate of Prince-Galitsin. A stately man¬
sion-house, with two wings, and an adjoining
church and belfry, rising amid lofty trees and
shrubbery, with a green lawn sloping to a lake of
considerable size, have a grand appearance. The
road unfortunately passes too near the house, and
GOltENKI BOTANIC GARDENS.
♦359
there is a wooden bridge over the lake, which
crosses it in an oblique line, which has a disagree¬
able effect.
Four versts farther, or seventeen versts from
Moscow, the next object which excites notice is
Gorenki, which belongs to Count A. K. Rasumov-
skii, and is now celebrated throughout Europe on
account of its magnificent botanic gardens. Its
situation is rather flat, in consequence of which the
triumphs of labour and art are so much more con¬
spicuous. The mansion is quite a princely resi¬
dence. It is large, not overloaded with ornaments,
and built in a good style of architecture. The in¬
terior apartments are very spacious and elegant,
and the furniture is quite consonant with the ex¬
terior impression. In the basement story is a fine
promenade through a gallery 130 sc/jins, or 910
feet long, including at each end a commodious
forcing-house. It has a magnificent appearance,
and is made doubly agreeable by the sweets of
orange and lemon groves, as well as the quanti¬
ties of peaches and apricots produced. The gar¬
dens are laid out with a good deal of taste. Gravel
walks, ponds, lakes with islands, together with
temples and statues, are their chief ornaments, and
in them grow nearly 2000 hardy perennials. The
collection of plants here amounts in all to between
nine and ten thousand. The hot-houses are eleven
in number, in six separate buildings, arranged in
two rows. Some of them are extremely large, and
a a 1
3(j0 GORENKI BOTANIC GARDENS.-DR. FISCHER.
the front of the whole, collectively, amounts to
1G4 sajins, or 1148 feet. Here are enjoyed Asiatic
pleasures in the rigorous climate of Russia—walks
amidst woods and groves of tropical vegetation
even when the cold is 80° of Reaumur, or 35° be¬
low zero of Fahrenheit.
The establishment at Gorenki, in toto, is one of
the most magnificent in the world, and perhaps its
equal was never supported by any individual.
The cost for wood alone, in the cold climate of the
north, is enormous, and I have been assured that
the annual expenditure has been from seventy to
one hundred thousand roubles.
Gorenki has been known about twenty-two
years by its botanic gardens, but it is chiefly within
the last eighteen that it has acquired such renown.
Dr. Radovskii, a man of talents, was its director for
a few years, and had formed a considerable collec¬
tion of plants. My worthy friend, Dr. F. Fischer,
that distinguished botanist, and most amiable man,
has been director of these gardens for about sixteen
years, and to him almost the whole celebrity of
Gorenki is due. His zeal and discoveries are well
known throughout Europe, and require no enco¬
mium from my pen. The extent and solidity of
his general knowledge, the goodness of his heart,
the unassuming gentleness of his manners, and his
readiness to oblige all, are best known to his
friends.
The gardens of Gorenki form a famous nursery,
COUNT RASUMOVSK1I.
501
and may be called the botanical emporium of
the Russian empire ; of the Ukraine, the Kri-
mea, the Caucasus, Georgia, paid of Tartary, Sibe¬
ria, Kamstchatka, and the Russian isles, between
the latter and America. Catalogues of the plants
contained in this nursery are frequently published,
and are distributed throughout Europe.
By connections already established in different
countries, seeds have been received at Gorenki of
numerous undescribed plants. Indeed many new
plants, which have enriched and embellished the
botanic gardens of Europe, most probably would
have remained unknown to the botanic world for
many years to come, but for Gorenki and its di¬
rector.
The correspondence of Dr. Fischer with Europe,
and the number of packets of seeds annually sent by
him to the botanic gardens, and to distinguished pa¬
trons of botany, is so enormous, that I dare not even
state it, fearful of exciting suspicion as to its au¬
thenticity. For these he receives seeds from all
quarters in exchange ; a practice which he wishes
to encourage to the greatest extent.
The above account of the gardens of Gorenki
was chiefly drawn up above two years ago, and
before the death of Count Rasumovskii. The
young Count, who has succeeded to a great part
of his father’s property, has ever since conduct¬
ed himself very imprudently, and Gorenki is
likely to fall into ruins. This noble is said to
3G2 RUIN OF GORENKI.-PETERSBURG FI GARDEN.
neglect and despise every thing that relates to
science. Estates, houses, gardens, furniture, horses,
cattle, plants, every thing he will part with to
obtain money: an article that has been scarce,
in consequence of the immense debts of his fa¬
ther. He has even parted with the family cannon ,
if I may so speak. How much was I surprised in
the summer of 1823, on making a trip to Archangel-
skoye, one of the seats of Prince Yuzupof, on find¬
ing some beautiful brass cannon, bearing the Rasu-
movskii arms and initials upon them, which had
been used on birth-days, names-days, festivals, &c.
And how shocked was I on learning that the young
Count had sold them to the Prince for a bagatelle !
The collection of exotic plants at Gorenki had
been offered to the Russian government for 250,000
or 300,000 roubles. The crown, however, would
only give 150,000, and the offer was rejected. As
the young Count has not the means of keeping
them in order, it is to be feared that they will be
almost totally lost.
In the mean time, Dr. Fischer has been engaged
by the Russian government, and is now organising
a most extensive botanic garden at St. Petersburgh,
which has been liberally endowed by the Emperor
Alexander. Last summer he visited the most dis¬
tinguished gardens both in England and Scotland,
and returned to Russia with an immense harvest;
which, I understand, cost him but a trifle. Thus
His Imperial Majesty will reap the advantage of
KASUMOVSKII’S AFFAIRS EMBARRASSED.
303
Dr. Fischer’s connexions, and be saved the expense
of thousands of roubles. The establishment is cal¬
culated to do both the sovereign, the nation, and
the director, great credit.
I have lately learned that the gardens at Go-
rcnki are in a very ruinous condition, and that
Count Rasumovskii’s affairs are in the greatest em¬
barrassment, which is not at all surprising, and is
quite a la Rasse. The immense fortune of the
hetman of the Ukraine, Count Kiril Rasumovskii,
the favourite of the Empress Elizabeth, was divided
among a number of sons, all of whom fell into em¬
barrassed circumstances while they had vast estates,
much property, and great annual revenues. Count
Alexei, the late proprietor of Gorenki, had a re¬
venue of above 600,000 roubles a year; an im¬
mense sum in Russia; yet this nobleman was
almost always in difficulty for want of money. His
magnificent establishments at Potchop, Gorenki,
Moscow, &c., his style of living, the support of
numerous natural children in a manner befitting
their rank, in civil life and in the army, and the
impositions of sycophants and stewards, all contri¬
buted their share to his difficulties ; and his dotage,
being accompanied by a degree of imbecility, still
led to their augmentation. But he was one of
hundreds who are placed in such circumstances. I
should like to see a list of all the nobles of Moscow,
with their revenues, expenses, and balance of ac¬
counts. There, probably, is not one in a hundred
361< RUSSIANS NOTORIOUS TOR GETTING INTO DEBT.
of the higher nobility whose affairs are in regular
order. I have never known more than two indi¬
viduals who seemed to know their true condition
and to my surprise, one of these, who has a revenue
of about a million of roubles per annum, was lately
necessitated to apply to the Lombard, in conse¬
quence of an ill-calculated, extensive, and unfor¬
tunate speculation of the head-steward, and other
^extravagant schemes, such as building, gardens, &c.
In the mean time, however, that person became
rich, because he had a certain allowance or present,
from all those with whom he had dealings; and
the more affairs, whether advantageous or ruinous
to his employer, the more profit for him.
The Russian nobility are notorious for getting
into debt and mortgaging their estates. The fa¬
cility of doing so arises partly from the eagerness
with which the merchants supply the wants of the
rich, either with goods or money, and partly from
the simple process of pledging their estates at the
Lombard. But great art is practised to obtain
money by those who are known to be already in
debt, or to have lost their credit. Were I to search
all Russia, I could not find a more striking illustra¬
tion than the hero of the following story. General
-had lost his credit among all the estab¬
lished merchants, tailors, workmen, &c. in both
the capitals of Russia, and indeed wherever he was
known. Being in want of some clothes while at
Petersburgh, he sent for a tailor who had lately
ANECDOTE.
3t)5
begun business, and of whom lie had no know¬
ledge. I was present when the stranger was an¬
nounced. He was immediately received by the
General in his cabinet, and in the most polite
manner. His Excellency ordered a quantity of
clothes, and begged the tailor to take his measure.
The high-sounding titles of General and Excellency,
which were repeated by the surrounding servants
in every answer to their master’s questions, seemed
to have great effect upon the poor man, who was
delighted with such an order. A few days after¬
wards, when, by chance, I again was with the Ge¬
neral, the tailor appeared with all the clothes. His
Excellency having examined them, begged him to
sit down till he had finished a letter, as he was
much pressed with important business, in conse¬
quence of a law process about nearly a million of
roubles. The letter being finished, the General
entered into the details of the said process, and
was liberal in his criticisms upon the corruption and
bribery of the courts of equity , and particularly
mentioned the presents of horses and money which
had been given to his agents. He took especial
care to inform the tailor that at length the process
had taken a favourable turn, and that he should
soon be in possession of his cash. The conversa¬
tion which followed was to the following effect:
“ I see, sir,” said the General, “ you are ac¬
quainted with your business, and I wish to encou-
ANECDOTE.
366
rage you, but Mot Golubtchik *, I shall not be able
to pay you beyond half the amount of your bill at
present, in consequence of a disappointment in the
receipt of some thousand roubles; but it is imma¬
terial, I will give you a bill for the other half,
which will become due in three or four months,
the time when I shall receive the obrok of my
peasants.” The tailor bowed assent. Then the
General related the history of another law process
with a silversmith, whose roguery he hoped would
soon be exposed, and said he had been assured by
the procurator, that the affair was about to termin¬
ate in his favour. A second interlude followed.
“ Moi Golubtchik ,” resumed the General, while
pulling out his pocket-book and counting his mo¬
ney, and apparently making a calculation in the
most specious manner—“ Moi Golubtchik, I find
that it will not be possible to give you more than
one-third of your money to-day, and I will grant
you a bill for the remaindei’.” As before, the
simple man signified his approbation by a low bow,
and unfortunately said, “ At your Excellency’s
pleasure.” The General next entertained the tailor
with a long account of the estate where he resided,
and concluded his harangue by inviting him to
come there, and receive the money himself in sum-
* Moi Golubtchik is a terra of caress, which is used to com¬
mon people. It literally means “ my dove? and is equal to,
my dear, or my heart.
ANECDOTE.
367
mer. Apparently, as he was about to draw out
the bill, he laid down the pen, called his body-
servant, and asked whether he wanted any more
clothes. The servant, who well knew his master’s
manoeuvres, replied in ,the affirmative, and enu¬
merated the articles required. Pretending indif¬
ference, the General now asked the tailor if he
could have them made by such a day ? The order
was registered, and the deluded man was imme¬
diately amused with a number of histories, as in¬
teresting to him as the former. The General,
putting his book into his pocket, then added, “ By
the by, I need not trouble you and myself about
the account till the whole amount is known; when
you come with the other clothes we will finish the
affair. Every thing went on smoothly, the articles
were prepared, and brought by the time appointed,
i. e. on the day of the General’s departure fi om the
residence. Tea was served to the tailor, and every
politeness shown him, as if he had been a gentle¬
man ; many amusing anecdotes were related, and
the pleasing term Golubtchik was frequently re¬
peated. An account of unexpected expenses was
then produced, which rendered it impossible for
him now to pay the third part of the amount of his
bill. The fascination of his Excellency again took
effect. A bill due after four months for the sum
total was drawn out, with which the tailor departed;
and a few hours afterwards the General was upon
the road to Moscow.
368
ILLUSTRATION.
1 was witness to similar scenes and conduct with
a boot-maker, and with an image-painter at Mos¬
cow, and at the General’s estate they became so fa¬
miliar, that I could have enjoyed them more than
theatrical comedies, had not pity for the sufferers
called forth my sympathy.
To the following history, I may probably be
told parallels might be found in every country of
the world, Britain not excepted; but, as similar
cases are extremely common in Russia, it, in a
considerable degree, represents a national feature.
It is under this impression that I detail it.
Mr. P., who was not rich himself, succeeded in
obtaining the hand of Miss K., the daughter of a
very wealthy Moscow merchant, in preference to
a number of other suitors, who were descended
from more distinguished families. As is very
common in Russia, Miss K. was placed under the
care of a duenna, who had much influence, direct
and indirect, over her mind and actions. Mr. P.,
well aware of this circumstance, secured the good
graces of the old lady by promises of a liberal
reward, provided his object was accomplished; in
the mean time giving her presents as an earnest
of his future generosity. The duenna therefore
sounded Mr. P.’s praises continually in the ears
of the thoughtless young lady, and with assi¬
duity made false reports to the disparagement
of all her other suitors. Her plans had the de¬
sired success: the marriage was solemnised: the
ILLUSTRATION.
369
large fortune was secured : and the duenna had a
handsome sum for her obliging aud useful assistance.
The new-married couple lived in the most extra¬
vagant manner; kept open table; gave balls and
other entertainments to their friends; and soon
got into embarrassments, which were increased by
the addition of two children to their family.
Mrs. P.’s father died, and left her a second
fortune. The old system of life, which necessity
had somewhat changed, was immediately renewed,
and persevered in, till Mr. P.’s circumstances be¬
came considerably involved. The opportune death
of Mrs. P.’s brother, who was immensely rich,
threw a third fortune into his hands, or, at least, at
his disposal; for Mrs. P. did not — as the law
authorises, and as many others of her sex have
done — remain mistress of her own property.
Mr. P., now richer than ever, honourably paid his
debts, lived in the most expensive manner, be¬
came a great speculative farmer, continued his
extravagance, and, in a few years, a third time
found himself in difficulties. Although he had a
good annual revenue, yet he was not the man to
recover himself by wise plans and economy: his
embarrassments augmented from year to year, and
at length he died of chagrin, whilst on a visit to
a beautiful estate in the government of Kaluga.
Mr. P. had by no means been brought up in
extravagance. He had received a good education,
and, in his youth, had spent a winter at Edinburgh,
VOL. II. B B
370 CHARACTER OF THE RUSSIANS.
and attended some of the lectures at the Univer¬
sity. He had an extremely sensible corporeal
system, and the irritability of his mind was exces¬
sive. He had a good heart,. and his principles
were excellent. Whilst in affluent circumstances,
his manners were cheerful, his conduct honourable,
and his liberality carried to excess: when in diffi¬
culties, he was peevish and ill-natured, niggardly,
and some say even dishonest. His fits of passion,
to which he was at all times liable, obscured his
judgment; and led him, contrary, I believe, to the
dictates of his conscience, into many improprieties
and foolish actions. He fell the sacrifice of a mis¬
guided mind.
Such are some of the deeds of the Russians, and
such are the truths which every impartial writer
must bring forward, or be silent. Though liberal
in criticism, yet I am rather inclined to regard
them as a depraved than a bad people. The hos¬
pitality, sociability, charity, temperance, and ele¬
gance of manner, of the higher classes of the
nobles, are worthy of the praise, and even of the
imitation, of nations much more remote from bar¬
barism and degradation. The ignorance and immo¬
rality of most of the clergy, the general deception
and villany of the merchants, and the depression
and slavery of the peasants, are to be regretted.
Still I am convinced, that, among all classes of
Russians, the elements of improvement and know¬
ledge are in activity, and will make rapid advance-
ARRIVAL AT MOSCOW.-FACTS RESPECTING IT. 371
ment. * On the 21st of August, I reached
Moscow, and completed the tour which was pro¬
posed to be made with the party by whom I was
engaged.
Since I published The Character of the Rus¬
sians, and a Detailed History of Moscow , some
tacts have been developed to which I shall now
turn the attention of the reader; especially as
they are contained in a work which, though very
meritorious, from its nature, is not likely to meet
with a general perusal. It would argue insensi¬
bility, did I not feel a degree of complacency at
the confirmation of several of my opinions con¬
tained in the work just mentioned, by no less an
individual than Colonel Boutourlin, one of the
aides-de-camp of the Emperor Alexander, and,
perhaps, even by the Emperor himself. My vo¬
lume was finished in 1S23, and published early
in January 1824; and, but a few months after¬
wards, Boutourlin’s work, Histoire Militaire de
la Campagne de Russie , appeared at Paris. Is it
possible to conceive, that the Russian govern¬
ment, no longer able to conceal the truth respect¬
ing the burning of Moscow, and the concomitant
events, at length agreed that Colonel Boutourlin
should be chosen as the organ of its publicity?
If the Colonel affirms that his work was written,
* On these subjects I have dwelt at length, in “ The Charac¬
ter of the Russians.”
B B 2
372 ALEXANDER DISPLEASED WITH THE AUTHOR.
or even that part of it, which treats of the points
just mentioned, was in the press before mine saw
the light, the coincidence of our opinions, nay of
our expressions, is very remarkable. But it may
be questioned, whether Colonel Boutourlin did not
alter his text after the publication of The Cha¬
racter of the Russians S$c, ; a copy of which reached
the Imperial palace at Petersburgh by express,
though not sent by me. I foresaw his Imperial
Majesty’s displeasure at the too free disclosure of
truths, my avowed enmity to despotism, and my
love of liberty. Hence, though the work in ques¬
tion was dedicated to the Emperor, I never sent
him a copy. My friends at court dared not pre¬
sent it, and I could not have asked a stranger,
far less those become my enemies, to do me such
a favour.
Colonel Boutourlin’s elaborate, ingenious, and
handsome volumes, do honour to himself and to
his country, and, I may add, to his sovereign ; as
there seems every reason to believe that the Em¬
peror perused every page of them before publica¬
tion, and, perhaps, even revised the proof sheets.
The general impartiality, accuracy, freedom from
extensive exaggeration and national animosity, of
these volumes, greatly enhance their value; and
the generous allowance of the military merits of
the French, and the high compliments bestowed
upon Buonaparte, amid some censure, are the
offspring of a truly noble mind. Colonel Boutour-
CHARACTER OF BOUTOURLIN’s WORK. 373
lin’s volumes are extremely interesting in another
point of view. Each chapter concludes with
remarks and criticisms on the motions both of the
French and the Russian armies. The reader will
be pleased, I think, with the following quotation.
Boutourlin, after charging Tclntchagof for having
manoeuvred (tree tine lenteur qui eut une influence
Juneste sur Vensemble des operations, and for not
having joined General Tchaplits earlier, so as to
have attacked the small number of the French who
had then crossed the Beresina, candidly admits,
that the conduct of Buonaparte, at the passage of
that river, is above all eulogy. “ He found re¬
sources,” says he, “ where a less able general would
not have suspected their possibility. — Invested
on all sides, Napoleon ne perd pas la tete ; by able
demonstrations, he deceives the generals who were
opposed to him ; and sliding, so to speak, between
the armies which prepare themselves to fall upon
him, he performs his passage at a well-chosen
point.” Indeed Colonel Boutourlin’s work seems
by far the most accurate, and the most complete,
which has been published with respect to the cam¬
paign of 1812; and, I doubt not, will remain a
national monument of that memorable epoch.
How happy am I to have to record something
honourable of the Russians!!!
The works of Boutourlin, and of an anonymous
French writer, who was an artillery officer of the
old guard of Napoleon, may be recommended to
b b 3
374
RUSSIAN ARMY’S RETREAT TO FILI.
the perusal of military men in general. By means
of the valuable atlas and plans of the former,
they will be enabled to follow the text of both
with great advantage, and hence may derive many
valuable lessons in strategy.
According to Boutourlin, the Russian army,
after the memorable battle of Borodino, not daring
there to hazard a repetition of the combat, gra¬
dually retreated toward Moscow. On the 30th .
of August (11th of September), the chief division
of the army reached Mamonovo; the camp of
which was fortified, par quelques ouvrages de
campagne. This measure gave rise to the opinion
that Prince Kutusof again wished to encounter the
French before resigning himself to the abandon¬
ment of Moscow. But it appears that the gene-
ral-in-chief had only made such dispositions, the
better to conceal his determination to evacuate the
capital. It was so much the more urgent to make
the troops believe that they should yet fight in
defence of Moscow, as it was, perhaps, the only
way to retain them under their standards, and to
prevent them from disbanding in that immense city.
On the 1st (13th) of September, the Russian
army took up its position within two versts of the
Dorogomilovskoi barrier of that city, its right being
supported by an angle of the Moskva, before the
village of Fili, and its left by the heights of Voro-
beevya, (the Sparrow-hill,) while its centre stretched
between the village Troitskoye and Volinskoye.
COUNCIL OF VVAK.
375
The Moskva, which at this place forms a prolonged
creek, was behind the lines of the army, as was also
the Dorogolmllovskaya Sloboda, or suburb.
In the mean time, divisions of the French army
were advancing by different routes. In the even¬
ing of the same day, Prince Kutusof, although de¬
termined to abandon Moscow, called a council of
war, qfin de n’avoir Pair of having himself decided
to come to this sad extremity, except with the
advice of his principal officers. The council
was composed of Generals Bennigsen, Barklay,
Doktorofj Osterman, Konovnitsin, and Yermo-
lofi and the quarter-master-general Toll. The
Prince, after having exposed the state of things,
asked each member of the council to deliver his
opinion on the following question : “ Ought we to
await the attack of,the enemy in the position occupied
by the army, or is it necessary to evacuate the capital
without a battle ?” General Barklay, who spoke
first, affirmed that the position was not tenable,
and proposed to evacuate Moscow, and to retreat
upon Nijni-Novgorod, which he regarded as a point
so much the more important, that it formed the
liaison of the northern and the southern provinces.
General Bennigsen, supported by Doktorof, op¬
posed this advice, pretending that the position was
sufficiently strong, and that the army ought there
to accept of another battle. General Konovnitsin,
although he was not of General Bennigsen’s opi¬
nion with respect to the goodness of the position
b b 4
370
COUNCIL OF WAR.
of Fili, believed it still the duty of the army to
make new efforts before it abandoned the capital,
and proposed to march and attack the enemy where-
ever they met him. Osterman and Yermolof ad¬
hered to this advice; but the latter remarked, that
it was necessary to know if the roads had been exa¬
mined, which ought to serve pour Voffensive pro-
jetee. Finally, Colonel Toll, having little faith in
the surety of the position of Fili, represented that
it appeared to him most advantageous to make a
flank march by lines, and by the left, with the de¬
sign of establishing itself in a lateral position, the
right at Vorobeevya, the left between the old and
the new Kaluga roads.
The diversity of these opinions, none of which
was free from inconveniences, gave the general-
in-chief all necessary latitude for rejecting them.
The question in debate, reduced to its most simple
form, may be thus stated— “ Is the preservation
of the army of more importance for the safety of the
country than that of the capital?” The answer
could not but be in the affirmative; and it thence
resulted, that it would have been inconsequent cle
risquer le plus pour le moins.
At this time the Russian army, encamped at the
gates of Moscow, consisted of about 90,000 men,
bearing arms, but only 65,000 of them were old
regular troops, and 6000 Kozaks; the remainder
being recruits and militia. Above 10,000 of the
latter had not even musquets, but were armed with
THE RUSSIAN AND THE FRENCH ARMIES. 377
pikes. With such troops to have fronted 120,000
men, whom Napoleon had at his orders, would have
been to risk a too probable defeat, and Moscow
might then have become the tomb of the Russian
army, when obliged, in its retreat, to defile through
the labyrinth of streets of that great city. These
reasons appeared in favour of the opinion of Gene¬
ral Barklay, but in subscribing to his advice to
abandon the capital, the line of retreat which he
proposed could not be adopted. The Russian
army, by withdrawing upon Nijni-Novgorod, would
have followed an intermediate line, which presented
no direct liaison either with the provinces of the
north or of the south. It is beyond all question,
that the most advantageous plan would have been
that of Colonel Toll, by gaining the Kaluga, or the
Tula road, where not only would there have been
free communications, but also the possibility of me¬
nacing the line of operations of the enemy, who
passed by Smolensk and Mojaisk. Unfortunately
the flank march, which it would have been neces¬
sary to execute in sight of the enemy, so as to
reach these roads, could have been too easily inter¬
cepted by the French, who, for that purpose, had
only to extend by their right. Indeed, the march of
Poniatovskii, by the new Kaluga road, already passed
beyond the left of the Russians, and would have
facilitated the execution of this counter-manoeuvre
by the enemy. All these difficulties did not escape
the penetration of Prince Kutusof who spoke in his
378 DECISION OF PRINCE KUTIJSOF.
turn. Remarking, that the loss of Moscow was not
the loss of Russia, he declared that he thought it
his first duty to preserve the army; to approach the
reinforcements which he expected; and,finally, even
to profit by the cession of the capital, in order to
draw the enemy into a snare, where his ruin would
be infallible, and that consequently he had decided
to abandon Moscow, and to retreat by the Kolomna
road. The members of the council of war having
no objections to the determination of the general-
in-chief, orders were instantly despatched to carry
his plan into execution.
All circumstances considered, the operations
proposed by the Marshal were indeed the most
advantageous. The Kolomna road is directed to¬
ward the southern provinces, and the army could
follow it with so much the greater security, as in
this march it would have its flank nearest the
enemy, covered by the Moskva. But this direc¬
tion chosen by Kutusof ought to be admired, espe¬
cially as an operation preparatory to the “ manoeuvre
sublime,” which was developed a short time after¬
wards, and is shortly to be noticed.
On the 2d (14th) September, a day of eternal
mourning for all hearts truly Russian, the camp of
Fili was raised at three o’clock in the morning, and
the army entered Moscow, by the barrier of Doro-
gomilof, and it had to traverse the greatest diameter
of the town to leave it by the Kolomna road. As
the decision of the council of war had been kept
RUSSIAN ARMY RETREATS TO KOLOMNA ROAD. 379
secret, the troops only knew it while entering the
city. Consternation spread among all ranks;
Moscow presented the most melancholy aspect; the
houses were deserted, and only a few inhabitants
were met flying with their most valuable effects.
The march of the army, though performed with
admirable order, circumstances considered, had
more the appearance d’une pompefunebre que d’une
marclie militaire. The downcast countenances of
the troops truly testified how much they were
afflicted by the cruel necessity of abandoning
ancient Moscow, which they had been accustomed
to regard comme Vame de Vempire Russe. The
officers and the soldiers wept with rage and with
despair.
The commandant of Moscow having likewise
received orders to evacuate the city with the garri¬
son regiment stationed there, began his march,
preceded by thundering music, to join the columns
of the army which defiled in the streets. The
striking contrast of this troop, so inconceivably
gay, avec les dispositions sombres de tons les esprits,
caused violent murmurs among the brave men who
had escaped the horrors of Borodino. “ Who is
the traitor ’who rejoices in the misfortunes of his
country ?” resounded from every quarter. The
chiefs hastened toward this column to cause the
music to cease, and with difficulty they succeeded.
The commandant was a brave soldier, but a fo¬
reigner, and he could not comprehend why he was
380 FRENCH AT MOSCOW.-RUSSIANS INCENDIARIES.
prevented from evacuating the place with the ho¬
nours of war. *
In another work I have detailed the manner in
which the French took possession of Moscow, and
treated at great length of the burning of that capital
in 1812. t After the afflicting details of these
events, I have confronted the most opposite and
the most authentic opinions, with respect to the
long agitated questions, “ Who burned Moscow ?”
and then stated my own conviction in the follow¬
ing words :—“ Were I to give an opinion, formed
upon enquiry among the natives, high and low,
and among foreigners of different nations, estab¬
lished at Moscow, some of whom never quitted
the city, I should state decidedly, that the Russians
themselves burned Moscow in the year 1812.”
From the same authorities I concluded, that the
conflagration of that city was undertaken upon a
premeditated plan, and I expressed my astonish¬
ment that an action, which has called forth the
eulogies of the whole world, and that is likely to
be handed down to posterity by the bards of Rus¬
sia, as a most glorious example of patriotism, and
as one of the most distinguished events in history,
should still be disavowed by the Russians. The
only explanation of this extraordinary conduct
* Histoire Militaire de la Campagne de Russic, p. 356—
364.
f Character of the Russians, p. 484—502.
CAUSE OF THE RUSSIANS’ DENIAL OF THIS DEED. 381
which I could give was the following: “I believe
that the Russian government was glad to have so
good an opportunity to exasperate the minds of
the populace of Moscow, and of the peasantry in
its vicinity, by exaggerating the atrocious and bar¬
barous conduct of the Emperor Napoleon, and by
proclaiming him the author of the conflagration,
with a view to give them an idea of what they were
to expect, if the towns and the villages of the in¬
terior were taken possession of by the enemy:”—
an opinion which is confirmed by Boutourlin.
Sell-preservation seems to have been the true
cause both of the deceitful measures which were
adopted to keep the greatest part of the inhabitants
of Moscow in ignorance with respect to its ap¬
proaching fall into the hands of the French, and
of the disavowal of the subsequent burning of this
capital. Both before and after Napoleon triumph¬
antly entered the city, none could tell how the tide
of public opinion might flow, or whether the pea¬
sants might not be roused against the nobles. The
widely-circulated report, that Moscow was burned
by the French, was a ruse politique de guerre, in¬
vented by those who knew their country and its
people. Had the burning of Moscow been an¬
nounced, at the moment, as the voluntary act of
the government, at least three-fourths of the ge¬
neral population would have imagined that minis¬
ters had gone mad, and would have deemed those
who obeyed their order as only fit for bedlam. Tell
382 CAUSE OF THE RUSSIANS* DENIAL OF THIS DEED.
the peasants of Russia, even at this day, that Mos¬
cow was burned for the safety of the empire, and
for the salvation of Europe, in a word, was a sacri¬
fice at the shrine of patriotism, and they will never
comprehend your logic. They will repeat a thou¬
sand times the same argument, “ No, no; the
French burnt Moscow ;’* and there is no possibility
of changing their conviction. Besides, the first
sentiment of the Russians, very probably, was that
the acknowledgment of their having been the incen¬
diaries of Moscow woidd be quoted by enlightened
Europe as an evidence of their want of civilisation :
a most mistaken idea. It is surprising, however,
after first impressions must have lost their force by
the universal proclamation of the burning of Mos¬
cow as a deed of the most sublime patriotism, that
the Russians did not frankly avow that this city
was sacrificed by imperial mandate. But having
once openly denied the act, and furiously de¬
nounced the French as the incendiaries, it would
be difficult to retract their statements without
losing credit for veracity. Besides, by still hold¬
ing out the same opinions, the government and the
nobles long continued to have complete domina¬
tion over the minds of the peasantry.
From a variety of circumstances, I ventured to
make the following prediction, which has been ful¬
filled much sooner than I expected. “ The time,
I doubt not, is not far distant when the Russians
will claim the merit of having offered up Moscow
RUSSIANS’ AVOWAL OF THE BURNING OF MOSCOW. 3SS
for the general good ; and then, perhaps, the world
will be less inclined to laud the northern nation.” *
But I shall now direct the reader to Boutourlin’s
observations.
Some months before the war, Count Rostopclnn
had been nominated Governor-general of Moscow.
During the whole course of the campaign he had
succeeded in repressing the tumultuous movements
of the populace , whom the misfortunes of war
plunged into despair. Less a military man than a
zealous citizen, he had believed in the possibility
of defending the town, step by step, and took all
necessary measures to excite the generous desire
of seconding the efforts of the army. The reso¬
lution of Prince Kutusof to evacuate Moscow was
a thunderstroke to his patriotism. But even at
this moment he did not neglect the only means
that was left to him of serving his country. Un¬
able to do any thing more for the safety of the
city, he determined d utiliser saperte, en laruinant
defond en comble. This project, worthy of a Scm-
vola, was ably executed. While the Russian troops
were in the city, fire could not be set to it without
embarrassing their retreat; but combustibles were
placed in many houses, and a troop of paid incen¬
diaries was spread throughout Moscow, directed
by some officers of the old police, who remained
there in disguise. Count Rostopchfn had even
Vide Character of the Russians, p. 503—523.
384 rostopchin’s extraordinary conduct.
taken the precaution to carry off with him all the
fire-engines, and other instruments for assisting at
fires. These measures had the desired success.
On the evening of the 2d (14th) of September, a fire
broke out in the Exchange, and on the following
day other fires burst forth in different parts of the
city, notwithstanding all the efforts of the French
to extinguish them. Besides the appointed incen¬
diaries, many individuals set fire to their own
houses without having received any order, being
inspired with rage against the enemy. The fire
continued, and nine-tenths of the city were con¬
sumed, and the rest was abandoned to pillage.
A few months before the appearance of Boutour-
lin’s work, Count Rostopchin published a pamphlet
at Paris, under the title, La Verite sur VIncendie
de Muscoit, the grand object of which was to ex¬
onerate himself from the shame, or rather the glory,
of having caused Moscow to be burned. The
reader, therefore, may be justly surprised why Col.
Boutourlin has given so manifest a contradiction to
the Count’s statements, as that above related. But
he explains the business. His account of the burn-
ina: of Moscow had been communicated to Count
Rostopclnn, who had desired to see it. “ The
Count,” says Boutourlin, “ does not always appear
to have been inclined d dire la verite ; for he re¬
turned the memoirs without having made the least
objection to them. After this, how could it be
foreseen, that ten years later, he would take a dif-
MOSCOW BURNED 13Y A GREAT CHARACTER. 385
ferent view of things, and judged it d propos to
publish cctlc verite. It would be very impolite not
to believe a man, who, par line generen.se metis tar¬
dive sincerite, se depouille lui-meme de la couronnc
civique pour se rejeter elans la joule : while, on the
other hand, the most positive information, does not
permit the author to doubt que Vincendie de Moscou
id ait etc prepare et execute by the Russian autho¬
rities. There remains no other manner de concilier
des versions si elijferentes, except that of supposing
that Count Rostopchin, at that epoch, had under his
orders, quelque personnage ei grand caractere qui
agissait d son hispid’ The Colonel, adhering to
this opinion, has not deemed it necessary to change
his text as the facts are recounted with accuracy.
He warns his readers that they ought to attribute
to the person in question, the eulogies so unjustly
lavished upon Count Rostopchin.
Boutourlin’s account of the burning of Moscow,
assuredly exonerates Count Rostopchin from all
responsibility, and shows that his conduct was con¬
sistent with his declarations, both at the time and
since that event, and also with his extraordinary
proclamations, one of which I have translated. *
But how shall we reconcile the rescripts of the Em¬
peror Alexander, which he addressed to Count.
Rostopchin, and in which he evidently insinuates
that the French burned Moscow, with the avowal oj'
* Vide Character of the Russians, &c.> j>. 509.
VOL. II. C C
oS6 CONDUCT OF THE EMl’EROK, &C.
that deed by the Russians, and especially with one
of them, in which he calls the French “ the despi¬
cable incendiaries.”* The Emperor may plead that
this expression was applicable to the French, as a
few of them really merited that character, and,
as a part of the palace of the Ivremle was set on
fire by them before their retreat from Moscow.
But, in that case, the attempt at the delusion of
the Russians, and of the world, is ignoble, and in¬
consistent with our ideas of sovereignty.
Again, what faith shall we have in the Russian
authors, who have written volume after volume to
prove that Moscow was burned by the French, or,
in the report of Count Rostopchin, who, while he
decidedly states that he was not the grand incen¬
diary, employs many pages for the same pur¬
pose ? Could he be ignorant of the preparations
of the grand personnage who planned, and who
executed, so glorious a deed ? With an im¬
mense military police under his command, and
at a time when every affair, every motion of' con¬
sequence was communicated to him by spies, is it
possible, for a moment, to believe in his ignorance
of' such an important transaction ? And, after the
city was consumed, did he not know that the Rus¬
sians themselves were the incendiaries? .1 solemnly
believe he did. Though the veil is at length rent,
and the avowal of the burning of Moscow by the
Vide Character of the Russians, p. 513.
A MYSTERY.— THE INCENDIARY OF MOSCOW. 387
Russians is made by the aide-de-camp of the Em¬
peror Alexander, and doubtless with the concur¬
rence of that sovereign, yet a cloud of mystery
still hangs over the identity of the personnage d
grand caractere, who was under Rostopchin’s
orders, but acted without his knowledge : i. e. who
was the grand incendiary of Moscow. Before ten
years revolve the world may be favoured with the
name of the heroic individual. In the mean time I
will venture to question whether the personnage was
not the Emperor Alexander, who may have em¬
ployed an agent to fulfil his commission, or Kutu-
sofj who wisely thought the safety of the army, at
such a juncture, of more importance than that of
the capital.
Boutourlin is of opinion, that, under every point
of view, the destruction of Moscow was a most ad¬
vantageous event for Russia. By it Napoleon was
deprived of the resources which he had hoped to
find there ; besides, the capital once destroyed, no
pusillanimous proposal was admissible. Those
who, in order to preserve the riches of Moscow,
might have been inclined for peace, rendered des¬
perate by their loss, could only think of vengeance.
The voluntary destruction of Moscow demonstrated
the energy of a government determined on all sacri-
fces rather than bend to a shameful yoke. That
action, while it restored the courage of the Rus¬
sians, depressed that of the enemy. Napoleon, by
directing all his efforts against Moscow, croyait
c c 2
388 EFFECT OF THE CONFLAGRATION.
J'rapper au aeur la Russie, which lie already thought
was prostrated by the capture of her ancient ca¬
pital. What must have been his alarm when
he saw that the Russians only considered it as a
great mass of stones, with which the destiny of
Russia was unconnected, and that they prepared
for war with more ardour than ever? Then he
ought to have foreseen the tragic development of
his enterprise.
Moscow not having commenced burning till
after the entrance of the French, it was easy to per¬
suade the vulgar that it was the enemy who had
set their capital on fire. * This opinion, while it
exasperated the country people, gave a distinct na¬
tional character to the war which blazed in the rear
of the French army.
It seems quite obvious, now, that self-preserv¬
ation was the cause of the double conduct of the
Russian crown, of the Russian functionaries, and
of the Russian authors, with respect to the awful
conflagration in question, and the deed is one of
the strongest proofs, that such a vice is character¬
istic of the nation. The retreat of the Russian
army by the Kolomna road, and subsequently its
march by that of Kaluga, in the rear of the French
army, have been called sublime manoeuvres; and
Colonel Boutourlin says, that they ensured the
safety of Russia, by preparing inevitable ruin for
* Compare p. '392.
Buonaparte’s impolitic conduct.
S89
the still formidable legions of the Emperor of the
French.
I agree with the Colonel, that the burning of
Moscow was a sad affair for the French army, even
contrary to the representation of some of its offi¬
cers with whom I have held conversations. But
there also seems little doubt, that Napoleon’s im¬
politic conduct, and the death-cold of the North,
gained a victory for the Russians which they them¬
selves would never have won.
c c 3
CHAP. XXIII
rostopchin’s conduct before the BURNING OF MOSCOW.-
PROBABILITY OF AN INSURRECTION OF ITS INHABITANTS. -
BOUTOURLIN’S CONCLUSIONS RESPECTING THE CAMPAIGN OF
1812. —CONDUCT OF THE EMPEROR ALEXANDER.—OF PRINCE
KUTUSOF.-OF THE RUSSIAN ARMY. — OF ITS OFFICERS.-OF
GENERAL TOLL. — REPORTED PLAN OF THE RUSSIANS FALSE.
— BOUTOURLIN’S PATRIOTISM.— ALARM AT THE POWER OF
RUSSIA.— INVASION OF RUSSIA IN 1812. -SIR R. WILSON’S
OPINION WITH RESPECT TO THE POWER OF RUSSIA.—OPINION
OF BUONAPARTE.—OF MR.LACK SCZYRMA.—OF M.DE PRADT.-
OF COUNT ROSTOPCHIN.— OF M. DUPIN.—OF AN ANONYMOUS
WRITER.—OF COLONEL BOUTOURLIN. — OF THE PERIODICAL
PRESS. - OF TIIE AUTHOR.—RUSSIA ACCESSIBLE, VULNER¬
ABLE, AND EVEN CONQUERABLE.— POWER AND POLICY OF
GREAT BRITAIN. -EUROPE NEED NOT BE ALARMED BY RUS¬
SIA.—STATE OF GREAT BRITAIN. RUSSIA REQUIRES TO BE
WATCHED.—COMPOSITION OF THE RUSSIAN EMPIRE.-HER
ROSTOPCHIN’s CONDUCT AT MOSCOW.
391
TROOPS.—HER OVER-ACTION.— PROBABLE FATE OF RUSSIA.-
RUSSIA THE BUG-BEAR OF EUROPE_THE EMPEROR PAUL.-
TIIE EMPEROR ALEXANDER.— THE GREAT DUKES.-THE EM¬
PRESS-THE DOWAGER EMPRESS.-ILLUSTRATIONS OF TIIE
CHARACTER OF THE RUSSIANS-TIIEIR RELIGION.-ANEC¬
DOTES. -CIVIL ADMINISTRATION OF RUSSIA.-NEW ORGAN¬
ISATION.-OPPRESSION OF TIIE POLICE. — SOLDIERS* QUAR¬
TERS. — RANKS AND TITLES OF TIIE RUSSIANS.—NOBLES. -
CLERGY. MERCHANTS.— PEASANTS. ANECDOTES. RUS¬
SIAN TABLES. — CLIMATE OF RUSSIA. —ICE-PALACE.— ICE-
DOLPHINS, CANNON, AND MORTARS, &C IMPROVEMENTS AT
MOSCOW.
W e have had so many contradictory accounts of
Rostopchfn’s motives and conduct before the con¬
flagration of Moscow in 1812, that it is but fair to
allow him to explain himself.
“ I had,” says he, “ two objects in view, on
which I depended for the destruction of the French
army, —to maintain the tranquillity of Moscow, and
to cause the inhabitants to depart from it. I suc¬
ceeded beyond my hopes. A calm was maintained
to the very moment of the entry of the enemy;
and, of 240,000 inhabitants, there only remained
12,000 or 15,000, who were either burgesses or
strangers, or common people; but no person of
distinction, either among the nobility, the clergy,
or the merchants. The senate, the tribunals, all
persons in ortice, had left the town some days be¬
fore its occupation by the enemy. I had wished
to prevent the possibility of Napoleon’s forming
any connections between Moscow and the interior
c c 4
392 PROBABILITY OF AN INSURRECTION AT MOSCOW.
of the empire, and of using the influence which the
French have acquired in Europe by their littera-
ture , modes , cuisine , et langue . By these means
one might have produced un rapprochement with
the Russians, one might have obtained confidence,
and subsequently have exacted services; but, in
the middle of the people who remained at Moscow,
seduction was as much without effect as among the
deaf and dumb.” *
I am not aware of the authority upon which Sir
R. Wilson makes the following assertion, but I
should think it was not made at random :— “ There
is no doubt of the fact,” says he, “ that a servile
war might have been fermented in Russia, if the
discipline of Napoleon’s heterogeneous army could
have been maintained, so as to have avoided out¬
rages and insults, which exasperated and shocked
religious prejudices; nor is it less true, that not¬
withstanding these alienating causes, Napoleon re¬
jected offers of insurrection which were made to
him when in Moscow.”
Indeed all those statements, even by the Rus¬
sians, which preserve any degree of candour, seem
to admit the probability of an insurrection among
the people, a point which I have illustrated at
length in The Character of the Russians.
The concluding remarks of Boutourlin’s volumes
are so interesting, both with respect to the past,
* La Verite sur l’Incendie, p. 20.
boutouulin’s conclusions on THE CAMPAIGN. 393
tlie present, and the future, that I shall introduce
a translation of them, for the benefit of the reader.
“ This campaign,” says he, “ so memorable par
Vetonnante consommation of men which it occa¬
sioned, will be reckoned by posterity a terrible
example of the danger de s’ecarter d la guerre des
regies preserves par une same theorie. Indeed,
the triumph of true principles never appeared more
striking than on this occasion. Napoleon, at Mos¬
cow, presents the interesting sight of a great cap¬
tain, who, at the head of an innumerable army,
has fulfilled the hut militairc which he had pro¬
posed in commencing hostilities, but who is about
to lose all that army because he has neglected or
disdained le grand principe de la base, which alone
can insure the operations, consolidate conquests,
and utilise the success obtained in the field of
battle. This single fault was the cause of the
failure of an enterprise conceived by one of the
greatest military geniuses who has ever existed, and
sustained by gigantic means which were supplied
by the co-operation of a great part of Europe.
Russia worthily supported so painful a struggle.
The nation demonstrated toute sa grandeur, by
anticipating the sacrifices which the urgency of the
circumstances demanded. At the sight of the
country in danger, all individual interest, all jea¬
lousy de castes, were destroyed; and all ranks,
rivalling each other in devotedness, united around
the throne. The whole nation, animated with the
.'j'il. CONDUCT OF THE EMPEROIi ALEXANDER.
same spirit, had no other thought but that of
hastening the expulsion of the stranger. The cry
of national honour resounded in every heart, and
dictated every resolution. All ranks, from the
most opulent lord to the poorest labourer, hastened,
with emulation, to offer their effects and their
blood at the altar of their country. The govern¬
ment was even obliged to limit the sacrifices,
which, in the fervour of their zeal, the citizens
proposed, as they exceeded the wants of the state.
“ But to the Emperor Alexander principally be¬
longs the glory de cette belle campagne. Those
who have meditated upon the great lessons which
history presents, know, that in all important events,
one discovers line cause principale et dominante,
whose decisive influence is felt throughout the
progress of affairs. Accidental and accessory
causes may hasten or retard the development,
but they cannot change it; for it is always regu¬
lated in the last result by the principal cause.
The events of 1812 had, for their principal cause,
the bold and magnanimous resolution of the Em¬
peror Alexander, to continue the war to the last
extremity, without being intimidated by reverses
however great, or seduced by the propositions of
the enemy, however advantageous.” This reso¬
lution is expressed in these terms, in a letter from
the Emperor to Marshal Soltikof: “ Je, ne poserai
pas les armes tant qu'un seid guerrier ennemi
restera sur le territoire de mon empire .” “Me-
CONDUCT or PRINCE KUTUSOl’. .Sf):7
morable words,” says Boutourlin, “ which demon¬
strate the noble confidence of the monarch in his
people; and which, even then, foretold the happy
termination of the war; as it contained all the
secret of the great advantages gained by the
Russians. Indeed, when the Emperor of Russia
adopted the generous resolution of resigning him¬
self to all sacrifices, rather than capitulate with the
enemy, la guerre cVinvasion which Napoleon di¬
rected contre tin pays sans fond, became an absurd
enterprise, and its success impossible.” This re¬
mark of Boutourlin’s is quite consonant with the
following by Sir R. Wilson :
“ Alexander, during this crisis, had displayed a
degree of firmness which deranged all the calcu¬
lations of Napoleon and his coadjutors. He pledged
himself as a sovereign, and a man, that he would
never treat with Napoleon whilst there was an
armed enemy in his country; and his inflexible
firmness rendered nugatory those attempts at
negotiation, which are reported not to have re¬
ceived the same discouragement in other quarters.”
“ The man who, after the Emperor, merits most
from his country,” says Boutourlin, “ is Prince
Kutusofl Russia owes her quick deliverance to
the profound and constant wisdom of his conduct.
Unluckily, there exist among us, men so ungrate-
fid, or so prejudiced, that they wish to deprive his
memory of the just homage of a grateful country,
but their efforts will be vain. The conduct of the
CONDUCT OF PRINCE KUTUSOF.
marshal was si belle, that it will bear the research
of the most severe critics. In fact, in a military
point of view, he can only be reproached with two
faults; the first, that of having given battle at
Borodino, though necessitated by political con¬
siderations OF THE HIGHEST IMPORTANCE : the
second, the retrograde motion from Maloyaro¬
slavets to Gontcherovo, which no motive can
justify. But one may salute du nom de grand the
general, who, in four months of the most active
campaign, only failed once. Besides, in compens¬
ation for this faidt, que de belles conceptions, of
which a single one would be sufficient to establish
the reputation of a captain. The march from the
Kolomna road to that of Kaluga *, that from
Tarutino to Maloyaroslavets, the parallel pur¬
suit, the march from Jelnia to Krasnoi, and the
sagacious combinations of the battles of Krasnoi,
will always be the admiration of connoisseurs.”
—Immortality, a dejd commence pour son nom.
* As has been already remarked (vide p. 388.), the motions
of Kutusof in the neighbourhood of the ancient capital have
been highly extolled, yet Sir R, Wilson says, that after the
capture of Moscow, for twelve days* the Russian army was
revolving round the smoking ruins of their capital, to regain
the Kaluga road, “ disconnected in line of march, embarrassed
with every possible encumbrance, and checked by every spe¬
cies of impediment: in this situation, the columns presented a
flank to the concentrated French army, and offered them an
infallible victory.” A Sketch of the Military and Political
Power of Russia, p. 27.
OF RUSSIAN ARMY.-OF GENERAL TOLL. 397
ancl impartial posterity will not fail to place him,
for the services rendered to his country, at the
side of Pojarskii; and for his military talents, at
that of Suvarof.
Colonel Boutourlin, after so many eulogies in
favour of Alexander and Kutusof, next alludes to
the devotion of the army, and the zeal of its
chiefs, who seconded his efforts, and distinguished
themselves in 1812, as Raevskoi, Konovmtsin,
Yermolofj the Prince of Wurtemburgh, Count
Pahlen, Vassiltchikof, Count Vorontsof, Rosen,
Dibitch, Paskevitch, Tchernitchef and Emmanuel.
With great candour, the author likewise speaks
in the highest terms of the Quartermaster-general,
Tojl, whose name bespeaks his foreign origin.
During the campaign, this distinguished man, by
his sagacity and his talents, was fame de tontes les
deliberations , et le moteur de plusieurs belles reso¬
lutions adoptees by Marshal Kutusof.
To the supposition that a plan of drawing
the enemy into the heart of Russia was premedi¬
tated by the government, Boutourlin replies, that
the retreat from the Niemen to Moscow was neces¬
sitated by the numerical weakness of the Russian
armies. He then adds, “Those who hold this
language, ought to know, that the glory of Russia
has no want of being exalted by artifice and lies.
The year 1812 was the touchstone that discovered
the treasures which our country renferme dans sa
sein, and our nephews will always cpiotc this me-
398
boutourlin’s patriotism.
morable epoch of the history of their country with
pride. A true relation of facts is sufficient to
immortalise them.”
Boutonrlin terminates his reflections upon the
campaign of 1812, in these patriotic phrases :—“ It
only remains for him, (the author,) to wish that his
country may receive the fruits of the exploits of
her warriors. May Russia find in the crisis she
has experienced, and which the devotion of her
sons has rendered so salutary, an inexhaustible
source of prosperity! May she enter the glorious
path directed towards the high destiny which
Heaven has so visibly reserved for her ! May her
power—the terror of the oppressor and the refuge
of the oppressed,—increase and be consolidated
for the maintenance of good order and of justice!
May the God of Kulikovo *, and of Poltava, who
also assisted her so miraculously in the late strug¬
gle, for ever grant her the protection of his potent
arm! Already Vetranger recommit avec effroi
Vinaccessibility of her vast frontiers. Henceforth
* By a letter, dated Petersbugh, November 14, 1824, we
learn that “ The Emperor has approved of a plan laid before
him by General Balaskdf, to form an asylum for a certain num¬
ber of wounded soldiers, near a monument which is to be
erected on the plain of Kulikovo, to the Grand Duke Dmitrii
Donskoi. A subscription through the whole empire is to be
opened for this national establishment. The Emperor has
assigned 20,000 roubles for the purpose. The General is to
agree with the Academy of St. Petersbugh respecting the plan
and elevation of the church and the houses intended for the
soldiers/’
ALARM AT THE POWER OP RUSSIA.
399
no enemy rci/l dare to pass them. Her citizens may
search after ( exploiter ) the treasures of a nascent
industry with security, and enjoy in peace the
meliorations which the progress of knowledge and
the benevolent march of time prepare for them.”
Similar ideas had been previously developed by
Sir It. Wilson.
“ The advantage,” says he, “ of this campaign
to Russia, was proportionably great to the injury
designed by her enemy. Her capital had been
consumed, many of her provinces had been laid
waste, and above two hundred thousand of her re¬
gular soldiery had perished; but to have developed
the resources of the empire, to have electrified the
spirit of the people, were copious and lasting com¬
pensations for evils which time and industry would
repair.” *
By some we are alarmed with the colossal and
irresistible army of Russia overwhelming Europe,
becoming masters of Constantinople, taking pos¬
session of Persia, and subsequently of India, and
thus accomplishing the ruin of the British isles.
By others we are lulled to repose, and told that
there is no cause of anxiety, and far less of fear,
from the Imperial forces of the north. Probably a
middle opinion between these two extremes would
be the most correct, and at all events would be the
* A Sketch of the Military and Political Power of Pussia,
p. 35.
400
INVASION OF RUSSIA IN 1812.
safest. We should neither give ear to false alarms,
nor let danger unexpectedly approach ; or, I should
rather say, nor permit Russia quietly to aggrandise
herself by further acts of aggression upon her
neighbours.
Before the year 1812, it was confidently believed
by some, that Russia, from her geographical posi¬
tion, her physical advantages, and with an effective
army of almost half a million of men, would have
defied the efforts of any invader which Europe
could bring against her, and France was deemed
incapable of such a deed. Though Buonaparte lost
his army, and was ruined in 1812-13, yet his ad¬
vance to Moscow demonstrated that Russia was
accessible and vulnerable ; and, as has already been
mentioned, but for the unaccountable neglect of
Buonaparte, after he got possession of that city, he
might have totally defeated the Russian army, and
given a new turn to his affairs. * There can be
no doubt that Napoleon’s retreat and ruin were
chiefly owing to his own imprudence, and to the
ravages of the climate; but the exposure of his
army to the rigours of a severe winter, was a con¬
sequence of unwarrantable conduct. This chief¬
tain attempted the work of two or three years in
one season. Had he proceeded with caution, and
taken proper measures to obtain the good will, in¬
stead of the hatred of the people, few seem to
* Vide Note, p. 396. of this Volume.
sir r. wirson’s opinion of the Russian power. 401
doubt that he would have conquered Russia ; or, at
all events, have reduced her government to advan¬
tageous, if not to unconditional terms. Notwith¬
standing these facts, a great number of celebrated
characters delight in holding up Russia in terrorem
to the other states of Europe, and even to Great
Britain, as I shall illustrate by some quotations.
In 1818, Sir R. Wilson wishes to establish one
of his former positions, that “ Russia, profiting by
the events which have afflicted Europe, has not
only raised her ascendancy on natural sources suffi¬
cient to maintain a preponderating power; but,
further, that she has been presented by her rivals
with the sceptre of universal dominion. ” *
If we could give the smallest belief to the fol¬
lowing remarks, Buonaparte, after his fall, also
seems to have regarded Russia as likely to become
an overwhelming power. “ The Emperor,” says
Las Cases, “ next adverted to the superiority of
Russia over the rest of Europe, in regard to the
immense powers she might call up for the purpose
of invasion, together with the physical advantages
of her situation under the pole, and backed by
eternal bulwarks of ice, which, in case of need,
would render her inaccessible. Russia, he said,
could only be attacked during one third or one
fourth of the year; while, on the contrary, she
* Sketch of the Military and Political Power of Russia in the
year 1817. Preface, p. vii.
VOL. II.
D D
402
Buonaparte’s opinion with
might throughout the whole twelve months main¬
tain attacks upon us : her assailants would encoun¬
ter the rigours and privations of a frigid climate,
and a barren soil, while her troops, pouring down
upon us, would enjoy the fertility and charms of our
southern region. To these physical circumstances,”
continued the Emperor, “ may be added the ad¬
vantage of an immense population, brave, hardy,
devoted, and passive, including those numerous un¬
civilised hordes, to whom privation and wandering
are the natural state of existence. Who can avoid
shuddering,” said he, “ at the thought of such
a vast mass, unassailable either on the flanks or in
the rear, descending upon us with impunity; if
triumphant, overwhelming every thing in its course,
or, if defeated, retiring amidst the cold and de¬
solation that may be called its forces of reserve,
and possessing every facility of issuing forth again
at a future opportunity ? Is not this the head of
the hydra, the Antaeus of fable, which can only be
subdued by seizing it bodily, and stifling it in the
embryo. But where is the Hercules to be found ?
France alone could think of such an achievement;
and, it must be confessed, we made but an awk¬
ward attempt at it.” *
* I scarcely give faith to the report that Buonaparte preached
the inaccessibility of Russia. I should rather suppose, after
the lessons for which he paid so dearly, he would have main¬
tained, cceteris paribus , that he would have conquered European
Russia.
RESPECT TO THE POWER OF RUSSIA. 403
“ The Emperor,” the author continues, “ was
of opinion, that, in the new political combination
of Europe, the fate of that portion of the world
depended entirely on the capacity and disposition
of a single man. Should there arise,” said he, “ an
Emperor of Russia, valiant, impetuous, and intelli¬
gent, — in a won!, a Czar, with a beard on his chin,
(this he pronounced very emphatically,) Europe is
his own. He may commence his operations on
the German territory at 100 leagues from the two
capitals, Berlin and Vienna, whose sovereigns are
his only obstacles. He secures the alliance of the
one by force, and with his aid subdues the other,
by a single stroke. He then finds himself in the
heart of Germany, amidst the princes of the second
rank, most of whom are either his relations or de¬
pendants. In the mean while he may, should he
think it necessary, throw a few firebrands across
the Alps, on the soil of Italy, ripe for explosion,
and he may then march triumphantly to Paris to
proclaim himself the new liberator. I know, if I
were in such a situation, I would undertake to
reach Calais in a given time, and by regular march¬
ing stations, there to become the master and arbi¬
ter of Europe.” *
“ After leaving the bath,” says O’Meara, “ Na¬
poleon spoke about Russia, and said that the Euro¬
pean nations would yet find that he had adopted
‘ Memorial de Saint Helene, vol. iv. part 7. p. 86—89.
D D *2
404 > Buonaparte’s opinion ok Russian power.
the best possible policy at the time he had intended
to re-establish the kingdom of Poland, which would
be the only effectual means of stopping the increas¬
ing power of Russia. It was putting a barrier, a
dyke to that formidable empire, which it was likely
would yet overwhelm Europe. I do not think,”
said he, “ that I shall live to see it, but you may,
you are in the flower of your age, and may expect
to live thirty-five years longer. I think that you
will see that the Russians will either invade and
take India, or enter Europe with four hundred
thousand Cossacs, and other inhabitants of the de¬
serts, and two hundred thousand real Russians.
Russia must either fall or aggrandise herself and
it is natural to suppose that the latter will take
place. By invading other countries, Russia has
two points to gain, an increase of civilization and
polish, by rubbing against other powers, the acqui¬
sition of money, and the rendering friends to her¬
self the inhabitants of the deserts, with whom some
years back she was at war.” *
“ Those who consented,” said Buonaparte, “ to
the union of Poland with Russia, will be the exe¬
cration of posterity, while my name will be pro¬
nounced with respect, when the fine southern coun¬
tries of Europe are a prey to the barbarians of the
North.” t
* O’Meara’s Napoleon in Exile, vol. ii. p.53, 54.
f Ibid. vol. i. p. 406.
LACK SCZYRMA's AND DE PRADT’s OPINIONS. 405
Mr. Lack Sczyrma, in his Letters on Poland,
with a good deal of patriotic feeling, informs us
that “ the annals of all foreign nations which had
ever dared to attack any of those people (the Scy¬
thians, or their successors in territory, at least, if
not their ancestors, the Poles and Russians,) are
written in characters of blood. The Tartar bar¬
barians, having laid waste with fire and sword the
Polish provinces, found their graves at Lignitz in
1241. The Turkish hordes sent by Bajazet in
1498 from Asia and Africa, and who threatened to
overrun Christendom, met their fatal day by frost
and famine at the sources of the Dneister. In
1709, the whole Swedish army under Charles
XII, was destroyed in the morasses of Pultava.
In our time, the whole tract of land from Moscow
to the river Elbe, the remotest boundary of the
Sclavonian settlements, and beyond those, has been
fattened with the blood of those who had the bold¬
ness to assail the altars of the domestic gods of
Sclavonia; and the children now play with the
weather-beaten unburied bones of these foreign
invaders — a sight shocking to humanity, and a
warning to posterity. ” *
M. de Pradt, after telling us, of the facility with
which Russia will be able to enter Germany, that
in time the Vistula, dans tout son cours, will be¬
come the frontier of Russia, and that Russia n'a
* Letters on Poland, p. 72,73.
406
M. I)E PRADl’s OPINION.
done pour voisins que des politiques effrayes et des
vassaux tremblans , proceeds thus, in his flowery
and figurative style, “ Russia is defended by her
climate, by her remoteness from the rest of the
world ; elle a pour ellc respace et le terns : chez die
on arrive fatigue aux pieds d’un rampart de glaces.
The shades of Charles XII. and Napoleon wander
before her frontiers, as spectres charged to remind
the temerarious of the fate which awaits them in
these sad countries; terrible privilege dont la nature
Va dotee ; we can never go to her to cause the evil
which at all times she can come to inflict. Say, in
what number, at what time, and upon what points,
you will go to strike her. The spaces are so vast,
that the greatest army, the most formidable for
talents and bravery, that of Napoleon, finit par
ne ressembler sur la carte de la Russie , qu’d une
traine de fourmis gravissant une montagne. A
small army can do nothing against Russia ; a great
one cannot subsist. The extent of territory admits
of turning the wings of the assailants, of cutting
off their communications; provisions are wanting,
their transport is difficult; one finds himself among
seas of sand; interminable forests of pines blacken
the horizon ; a savage population flies or arms
itself at the sight of a stranger. Manners, lan¬
guage, food, all differ from Europe: it is another
universe; a tardy spring touche d un /liver precoce;
the few months convenient for action are consumed
in approaching the frontiers, and when reached,
kostopchin’s and dupin’s OPINIONS, &C. 407
Vaiguillon des aquilons soon comes to benumb the
arms of the assailants and to bury les travaux (le la
campagne, under the mountains of snow. Lesjri-
mas, vengeurs de la Russia, plangent dans un som-
meil de glace: all is extinguished, all expires under
the merciless sky. Such is a war against Russia.
See if by nature she is not declared inattackable,
inapproachable, if she does not always present open
graves for her enemies.” *
“ The Russians,” says Count Rostopclrin, “ have
proved themselves superior to many other people,
because they are inaccessible to fear, and incapable
of treason, il porte dans son energie morale, et dans
sa force physique, la conviction de succes .” t
That distinguished and eminent writer, Mr. Du-
pin, asserts that “ the troops of Russia are not
only formidable by their number, they are so by
valour, by impetuosity in the attack, and by ob¬
stinate firmness on the retreat.—In admitting the
incontestable power of Russia to defend her ovon ter-
ritory, her aggressive power is disputed.” t
An anonymous writer, for whose opinion on
many points 1 have a high respect, says, “ there is
another awful consideration : Russia is inaccessible,
* Parall£le de la Puissance Anglaise et Russe relativement
a l’Europe, &c. Paris, 1823.
\ La Verite sur 1’ Inccndie de Moscou, p. 43.
J Observations sur la Puissance de TAngleterre et sur celle
de la Russie, au sujet du parallele etabli par M. de Pradt entre
ces Puissances. Paris, 1824.
D D t
408 OPINION OF BOUTOURLIN AND THE PRESS.
unattackable. Frosts and snows, and the terrible
host of winter, make her unconquerable. Her
frontiers are mountains and seas. Her power
neither results from the number of her inhabitants,
nor from her pecuniary resources, nor from the
talents of her rulers, nor from the extent of her
territory; but from her snowy and icy region,
which, though it is a wall of adamant against at¬
tack, she cannot drag with her to the south for the
purpose of attacking others.”
In unison with these opinions, Boutourlin says,
as already mentioned, that the stranger, with alarm,
acknowledges the inaccessibility of the frontiers of
Russia.
In justice to the periodical press, it ought to be
mentioned that many individuals have espoused a
very different opinion with respect to the immense
power and preponderance of Russia.
Notwithstanding what Sir li. Wilson enthusi¬
astically tells us of Russia being presented by her
rivals 'with the sceptre of universal dominion ; not¬
withstanding the physical advantages of the situ¬
ation of Russia , backed by eternal bulwarks of ice,
which render her inaccessible, and the cold and de¬
solation which seem to have alarmed Buonaparte;
notwithstanding that the annals of allforeign nations
who have attacked the Sclavonic nations are written
in characters of blood, according to Mr. Lack Sczyr-
ma; notwithstanding what the specious, flowery,
and acute, rather than profound, Abbe de Pradt
RUSSIA ACCESSIBLE,VULNERABLE,CONQUERABLE. 409
talks of the geographical position, the climate, the
rampart de glaces, the spectres of Charles XII. and
of Napoleon, the snow mountains and the hoar frosts ;
notwithstanding that Rostopchin tells that the Rus¬
sians are inaccessible to fear, and incapable of trea¬
son ; notwithstanding that Mons. Dupin maintains
the incontestable power of Russia to defend her own
territory ; notwithstanding the formidable power,
the frosts and snows, and icy regions, the wall of
adamant, and the terrible host of winter of the
Westminster Review; and notwithstanding that
Boutourlin also holds forth the inaccessibility of the
frontiers of Russia, in my humble opinion Russia
is accessible, vulnerable, and even her best provinces
conquerable, by a proper and cautious method of
procedure, and by a smaller army than Napoleon
had when he invaded this country and took pos¬
session of Moscow. But as Great Britain, as well
as the Continental nations, is at peace with Russia,
and as I am not anxious to kindle the torch of war,
at present I could merely wish to inspire the na¬
tions of Europe with the hope of being able to
resist her apparently colossal power and even to
retaliate her future aggressions. Is not Great
Britain, leagued with any two of the great Con¬
tinental powers, and proceeding upon a well-organ¬
ised plan, able to resist any invasion of Russia, and
even to enter on an offensive war ? Is it not in the
friendship and policy of Great Britain that Com¬
mensurate opposition to the plans of Russia can
410 POWER AND POLICY OF BRITAIN. — EUROPE
alone be found ? As for conquering all Russia, it
is out of the question. No power on earth would
ever dream of such a measure, because the greatest
part of her territory is not worth conquering. Who
would follow her to Siberia, or what power would
wish to possess that extensive country? The best
provinces of Russia being seized, her fleets being
destroyed or blocked up, a powerful navy being in
command of the Gulph of Finland, and another in
the Black Sea, and the Sea of Azoph; Petersburg^,
and the ports of these seas being threatened with
destruction or capture, would not Russia be reduced
to advantageous, if not to unconditional terms?
With respect to the invasion of Europe, alluded
to in some of the above quotations, and so power¬
fully expressed in those words of M. de Pradt,
“ La population de V Angleterre ne pail croitre de
maniere d peser sur VEurope: celle de la Russie
pent Vecraser: a good deal may be said. Mr.
Dupin states, that “in conceding to M. de Pradt,
that England alone cannot make war against Rus¬
sia, and still less against the Holy Alliance, it
ought to be admitted at the same time, that this
author too greatly diminishes the influence of
Great Britain as a military force, and as a naval
force in the Black Sea and in the Baltic. For
the future, he also allows by far too little influence
to the finances of England, for the formation des
resistances destined to combat the future projects
of Russia. Beyond doubt, a subsidy will not
NEED NOT EE ALARMED EY RUSSIA. 411
cause a secondary power to enter, without a motive,
into a struggle against so formidable an empire.
But, when this same empire shall menace one of
these powers, England can furnish subsidies which
will enable it to commence a vigorous resistance
without delay; and will procure it allies from all
parts, by giving them the only resources which are
often wanting to enter into a struggle, the interests
and passions of which they had already espoused.”
Taking into account the immense territory of
Russia ; — her greatly increased and increasing
population; — her rapid advancement in general
knowledge and civilisation ; — her powerful influ¬
ence in the cabinets of Europe; — her colossal
army and the talents of its chiefs; — her improve¬
ment in military tactics; — the excellent state of
her cannon-foundries, her arm manufactories and
military stores; — her new system of military colon¬
isation ; — in a word, her abundance of all the
materials of war, zwith the grand exception of money ;
— and her apparent destiny of becoming a mighty
nation, even with a greatly reduced territory, I
should suppose that Europe need not be greatly
intimidated by the reveries of the Alarmists about
her aggressive power, invasion, and annihilation.
And I should also think, that Great Britain may
repose on her pinnacle of superiority, as long as
she is distinguished for civil and religious liberty,
arts and sciences, commerce and riches, virtue and
religion. With these for her internal, and wooden
412
STATE OF GREAT BRITAIN.
walls for her external bulwarks, “ the gates of hell
shall not prevail against her.” The courts of
Europe, indeed, must decide, and upon their
decision and action it depends, whether Russia
shall become more formidable or not.
Nothing can be more consolatory to the British
patriot, than the following assurance from one of
the greatest of statesmen. “ With respect to the
situation in which we stand, I mean as England
stands to Europe, I neither court nor assume the
praises lavished by the honourable seconder of the
address (Mr. Daly), while I equally regret the
censure of the honourable and learned member
(Mr. Brougham). England, I may say, is now
able to meet any enemy, as much, perhaps, or more
so, than she ever was; her opinions are as much
respected as they ever were; her interference as
much courted, and her influence as high and as
commanding as at any former period of her history.
I will not say England is now, in every particular,
in the same state she was in other times. Her
state, like that of all other nations, has altered;
the qualities and elements of all society have
changed, and we must in some degree change with
them. — If we did commune and act with them
(despotic monarchs) let us only look back for ten
years, and we shall see, that if we were not leagued
with despots, if despots they must be called, we
never had been able to over-ride that colossus of
RUSSIA REQUIRES TO 1SE WATCHED.—HER ARMY. 413
tyrants; who, as it were, united all others in him¬
self.” *
Thanks to Heaven, in these momentous times,
that there are now at the helm of our own affairs,
those who are pre-eminent for penetration, saga¬
city, prudence, and liberality of sentiment; those
who may be able to prevent or to discomfit the
schemes of insatiate ambition and oppression ; and
who, if forced to the measure, will know when and
where to send forth the “ trident upon the ocean,”
or to hurl “ the thunderbolts of war!” That their
policy and wisdom, however, may lead to the eva¬
sion of such alternatives, consistently with British
valour, British honour, and British independence,
must be the wish of every friend of the human race.
Let us calmly look upon the real state of
Russia. Beyond doubt, this power is neither to
be disregarded nor despised. She is to be watched,
because she may become dangerous; but the in¬
fatuation of the Continental powers alone, will per¬
mit her to gain another inch of territory, or to
acquire the least additional political power. The
Russian army, which amounts to nearly 1,000,000
of men, is commanded by many eminent captains,
and, in the hands of even the mildest and least
ambitious despot, is a mighty machine, and is not
to be trifled with as a mere mass of physical force.
* Vide Mr. Canning's Speech on the opening of Parliament,
February 3d, 1824-
414 COMPOSITION OF THF. RUSSIAN EMPIRE.
It must not be forgotten, that this army had im¬
mense practice in the art of war during the last
campaigns; nor that the Emperor Alexander has
devoted the utmost attention to its improvement
ever since the peace. It is also to be borne in
mind, that the officers of the higher ranks have
received a moderately good education ; and have,
in a considerable degree, assimilated themselves
with those of the other armies of Europe.
In our reasonings with respect to the political
state, the probable policy, and the expected mili¬
tary operations of Russia, it must ever be recol¬
lected, that this empire is composed of the most
heterogeneous materials; that Russia Proper is
surrounded by territories which have once been
independent kingdoms, or wrested from other
states as Kazan, Astrachan, Siberia, the Kuban,
Mount Caucasus, Georgia, the Persian provinces,
the Krimea, the Baltic provinces, but especially
Finland, Poland, and the Turkish provinces. It
must also be remembered, that the greatest part
of these adventitious territories have been retained
under the rule of the Imperial eagle by the pre¬
sence of over-awing armies, and by mild, tolerant,
and crafty policy; and it is believed, also, by
bribery. It must be recollected that most of these
countries, if not absolutely ready for revolt, are
by no means heartily attached to Russia; and
would readily risk all to recover their former
state when the tocsin sounded to arms, and in-
OVER-ACTION OR RUSSIA.
415
dependence was the object. Are not the Poles,
the Kriinean Tartars, the mountain-tribes of the
Caucasus, some of the Georgians, the Persians, and
the Turks, amongst the number who would join
any party, had they the prospect of regaining their
ancient territories and privileges, disturb the peace
of Russia, and commit acts of aggression ? Another
consideration ought never to be forgotten ; viz.
that in proportion as Russia has extended, or may
extend her dominions, she augments the number
of her foreign forces, and renders necessary a
wider division of her native troops; so that when
a revolution takes place, so much the greater are
the chances of a complete disorganisation of the
whole empire. In fact, Russia is surrounded by
enemies, under the name of conquered friends;
and dreadful will be the explosion, which, sooner
or later, according to the course of human affairs,
may be expected to overwhelm this immense em¬
pire.
Russia has, probably, reached the zenith of her
glory, unless her ambitious plans be laid aside.
She is arrived at that pinnacle of pre-eminence, in
so far as respects territory and political power,
fro,m which she is likely to retrograde, unless she
act with extreme prudence and judgment. She
has long been under the influence of a strong
stimulant, proceeding in a course of ambitious
aggrandisement, which has often been accompa¬
nied with war and bloodshed ; adding province to
41G
PROBABLE FATE OF RUSSIA.
province, and kingdom to kingdom. But, like the
animal system, she will experience the sedative
effects of her over-exertion ; which will, probably,
end in a deep slumber, of which her neighbours,
or some hardy adventurers, may take advantage.
It is not likely that Russia will ever be more
formidable than she has proved herself already.
We know from late experience, to what her means
are equal, in spite of all the defects inherent in
her government. She should be watched with
care, but not with jealousy; and should the course
of events unhappily tend to weaken the ties of
amity which at present subsist between Russia and
Britain, for their mutual , advantage, it is right to
bear in mind, as Mr. James observes, “that the
dissolution of so mighty a mass, is not, of itself,
to be viewed with unconcern; for its fall may
involve many others also in destruction, and en¬
cumber all Europe with its ruins.”
The same writer adds, “ In her present circum¬
stances, I cannot suppose that there really exists
so £reat and immoderate a cause for alarm as some
speculatists are wont to imagine. Men and money
do not constitute national power and wealth ; but
the efficiency of the one, and the circulation of
the other. As matters are now arranged, the
internal state of Russia militates, in the strongest
way, against the improvement of her means. Op¬
pressed as she is by an autocratical government,
— with an all-powerful nobility, —with a half-
PROBABLE FATE OF RUSSIA.
417
digested feudal system, —with an incapacitating
spirit of corruption in every branch of adminis¬
tration, — with foreigners in possession of every
post of honour or profit, — it is not too much to
say, that Russia has reached in the present reign,
the highest pinnacle of rank and power, which her
circumstances can ever admit her to attain; and
should an alteration in her system be contemplated,
it is hardly possible, from such a melange of incon¬
gruities, to augur that any change should be last¬
ing, or productive, in the end, of consequences
really beneficial to herself. The Imperial authority,
now all-powerful, will, hereafter, find itself unable
to check the influence of knowledge, and sense of
partial liberty that daily diffuse themselves more
and more throughout the nation. It requires no
great foresight to predict the divisions and factions
that must alternately arise from the irregular distri¬
bution of wealth and power over so enormous an
extent of territory; and wheresoever accident shall
cast the balance, it will be an easy task of ambition
to throw off all dependence on the semi-Russian
capital: the storm is now preparing, and every
fresh act of aggrandisement brings nearer the hour
of dissolution. As to other prospects, and the
view in which her preponderating strength may
be regarded by her neighbours, it should be re¬
membered that Russia has not hitherto been able
to bring into the field an army capable of over¬
whelming any one of the superior states of Europe ;
418
RUSSIA THE BUGBEAR OF EUROPE.
though supposing that she were, in the existing
state of the civilized world, it is not by the inroad
of numerous hordes that European independence
is threatened, but by the country which shall have
advanced to the highest degree of eminence,
activity and skill, in arts and in science, in intelli¬
gence, in wealtli: this superiority alone can ever
justly be looked upon with fear; and notwithstand¬
ing the laudable efforts they have made, the Rus¬
sians cannot be said even to approximate to such
a state at this epoch. The nation has made great
efforts, but there yet remains much to be done.”
It has been well said, that Russia, although she
is become the Bugbear of Europe, “appears indeed
a giant: but it is only a giant of the mist, which
passes away before a penetrating vision, or a rising
sun.”
Before quitting politics, a few paragraphs may
be well devoted to the Imperial family, but espe¬
cially to the Emperor Alexander and his predeces¬
sor.
Like all sovereigns, even the most cruel, wicked,
and barbarous, Paul had his flatterers during life,
and his good qualities were best known after his
death. In the Russian authors we ofiten meet with
the expression, “ Paul of blessed memory and a
number of publications bestow panegyrics upon
that departed monarch. His life, which may serve
as an example, is thus sketched by some of the
Russians: —“ Paul ascended the throne on the
THE EMPEROR PAUL.
419
Gth November, 1796. During his reign he orna¬
mented the capital with many magnificent public
buildings: in Petersburgh he built the palace of
St. Michael, and in Moscow the palaces of the
Kremle and the suburbs; he carried military dis¬
cipline into strict order, according to new regula¬
tions ; he founded the Medical Academy, and the
Medical Uprdvas*, in the government towns ; he
gave new regulations for the two ecclesiastical aca¬
demies of St. Alexander Nevskii at Petersburgh,
and of Kazan, for one of the public schools (Yun-
kerskoye,) and for the Military Orphan establish¬
ment; he furnished the clergy with new regula¬
tions, and was pleased to appoint orders and other
distinctions for them ; he abridged the laws of the
government, and annihilated all causes of delay in
the tribunals ; he ordered a box to be placed for
the reception of petitions from any individual (but
this generosity was but of short duration ;) he put
the regulations of the post-office into better order;
he gave an asylum, in Russia, to the order of St.
John of Jerusalem, and became its grand-master;
for the fame of Russia, through Field-marshal Su-
varof Rimniskii he carried on war in Italy, and he
took Georgia into subjection. He died on the 11th
March, 1801, in the 47th year of his age, and was
buried on the 23d of the same month, in the cathe¬
dral of St. Peter and St. Paul, at St. Petersburgh.”
' Vide [>. 360. of Vol. I.
E E 2
420
THE EMPEROR PAUL.
Paul was violent and capricious ; but, his ene¬
mies say, that “ although- be wanted judgment to
shield his country from injury, he had too exalted
a mind ever to have subscribed to her disgrace.”
“ His reign,” says Sir R. Wilson, “ was too short
for the development of* the even then exuberant
resources of his empire, hut it had an important in¬
fluence on the European branch of Russian policy,
by showing that every part of Europe was accessi¬
ble to armies brought from the Caucasus and Si¬
beria, &c.”*
In The Character of the Russians, &c. as well as
in this work, I have reported various statements
and anecdotes which tend to illustrate the true
character of Paul, who with great propriety may be
classed among those furious tyrants that, with
generous hearts, are always committing foolish
actions, and who seem born for the misery of
mankind.
However much we may deprecate assassination,
it was for the happiness of Russia that Paul’s reign
was short, and that his acts had but a transient in¬
fluence. In him she lost a despotic tyrant, and
found a mild benevolent monarch, as great a con¬
trast to his father and predecessor as it is possible
to imagine. “ Alexander came to the throne with
strong predilections in his favour. Real personal
* A Sketch of the Military and Political Power of Russia,
p.ll.
TIIE EMPEROR ALEXANDER.
421
good qualities had gained the affection of all who
approached him; and, as the pupil of La Harpe,
expectation was raised high as to his capacity for
government. The Telemachus of the North was
not then inebriated with power, but, instructed in
his duties by a Mentor endowed with intelligence
and virtue, exercised the authority of a despotic
sovereign to establish philanthropy as the basis of
his throne. An enemy to the costly vanities of
some of his predecessors, he regulated the expenses
of his palaces with economy, and applied his trea¬
sures to the foundation of useful establishments,
the promotion of useful public works, the equip¬
ment of his arsenals, and the augmentation of his
army. Temperate, active, and indefatigable, he
transacted the business of government through
direct correspondence or personal superintendence;
and, familiar with the statistics, topography, and
interests of the various people inhabiting his exten¬
sive empire, he cherished the general prosperity by
a polity adapted to the wants of each and all.” *
“ The personal character of the reigning Em¬
peror is chiefly distinguished by great affability
and condescension, which is carried to such a
degree, as would be wholly incompatible with his
situation, if the government were of any other
form than that of an absolute monarchy. Con-
* A Sketch of the Military and Political Power of Russia,
4 22
THE EMPEROR ALEXANDER.
sidering the disadvantages of his early life, he
must be regarded as one who has, as far as pos¬
sible, overcome, by natural goodness of temper,
those evil habits which circumstances seemed to
form for him; and whatever blame some may
attach to his caprice, his artfulness, his inflexibility,
his vanity, or his gallantry, he nevertheless has
great merit; and, indeed, his very faults may be
said to be well suited to the part lie is destined to
sustain, and to the nation whom he governs. Of
the Empress, it is sufficient to say, she is adored
by all classes.” *
It cannot for a moment be contested, even by
his enemies, that Alexander is not an excellent
sovereign for Russia. Few despots have swayed
such a powerful sceptre with equal gentleness and
mercy. He shows himself the patron of arts,
sciences, literature, and information of every kind:
and if) at times, a degree of illiberality or of excess
in his measures becomes evident, 1 should be in¬
clined to attribute it rather to the influence of his
counsellors, than to the dictates of his heart. I
should also suppose that the ambitious plans of
Russia originate elsewhere than with His Imperial
Majesty. At the same time it must be allowed,
that by some he is accused of considerable illi¬
berality, and of unbounded ambition. The soli¬
citude which he manifests for the good of his
* James’s Journal, &c. p. 271.
TIIE EMPEROR ALEXANDER.
423
country, and his humanity, deserve the highest
encomiums.
As a private character, the most serious charge
that can be brought against the Emperor Alex¬
ander relates to his affairs of gallantry, which are
ever to be regretted for the sake of the Empress.
But when we candidly take into account the
extremely corrupt court at which he was edu¬
cated, * — his early marriage, and perhaps not
with the object of his choice,—the facilities, nay,
the temptations, to desert the path of virtue, by
which so young a sovereign was surrounded, — and
the extreme jealousy and rigid coolness of the
Empress, we must at least think his failings greatly
palliated, if not excused. Indeed, all circumstances
considered, perhaps not one in a hundred, or in a
thousand, would have conducted himself so well
as the Emperor Alexander. As his years have in¬
creased, so has his wisdom t; and I have been
* “ Immorality,” said Buonaparte, “ is, beyond a doubt, the
worst of all faults in a sovereign; because he introduces it as
a fashion among his subjects, by whom it is practised for the
sake of pleasing him. It strengthens every vice, blights every
virtue, and infects all society like a pestilenec; in short, it is a
nation’s scourge.” Memorial de Saintc Helene, of Count de
Las Cases, vol. iv. part 7. p. 20. Yet Alexander was reared at
the corrupt court of Catherine, and has beeome an example
for good principles and conduct to the potentates of Europe.
He really seems to have been “ a chosen vessel.”
f Indeed he seems to have said in all sincerity, —
“ May I govern my passions with absolute sway,
And grow wiser and better as life wears away! ”
E E 4
424-
THE EMPEROR ALEXANDER.
assured, that this monarch now shows his regret at
the frolics of his youth, by repentance, and the
kindest conduct to his Imperial consort, with whom
he passes much of his spare time in the evenings.
Judging from the past, we may venture to prog¬
nosticate much happiness for Russia, if it shall
please Providence to prolong Alexander’s years.
The ardour and inexperience of youthful passion,
is replaced by coolness, vigour, and perseverance in
a private and public course of virtue. The deeds
of his life will entitle him to the gratitude of the
living, and his memory will be venerated, not only
as the great, but as the good Alexander .
During the campaign, it cannot be questioned
that Alexander was an example to his whole army.
His exemplary endurance of privations, cold, hun¬
ger, and fatigue, served to animate his troops. His
activity and solicitude were equally the theme of
praise, while his affability and conciliatory manners
gained him all hearts.
The simplicity of manners, and mode of life of
Alexander are very exemplary and praise-worthy.
He sleeps upon a hard mattress, whether in the
palace or in the camp; he rises early, lives very
moderately, is almost never even merry with wine,
employs much time in public affairs, and is inde¬
fatigable in his labours. His chief amusement, if
such it may be called, seems to be the organisation
and discipline of the army.
From all that I have heard, it appears that he is
TIIE EMPEROR ALEXANDER. 425
4
extremely firm, and even obstinate, in his own
opinions, and may have a small share of vanity.
His talents seem solid and good, without much
brilliancy, and his courage is sufficiently demon¬
strated by the fact that Moreau fell at his side,
and had both his legs so mutilated, as to render
amputation necessary.
The Emperor may be seen in summer riding in
a one-horse droshki, and in winter in a one-horse
sledge, or walking on the quays of the Neva, or
the boulevard of the admiralty in the most simple
uniform. I shall never forget the first time I saw
his Majesty. A few days after his return from
Paris in 1815,1 was introduced to Sir James Wylie,
with whom I visited some of the military hospitals
at Petersburgh, and in which I spoke with a num¬
ber of medical gentlemen. A few days afterwards,
on the palace-quay, at no great distance from one
of these hospitals, I remarked an officer in a plain
uniform without epaulets, whom I took for one of
the physicians I had seen, and meant to address
him. But for my want of knowledge of the French
language, at that time, I should have addressed him.
While I hesitated whether to say Comment vous
jjorlez vous Monsieur le Doclcur , or simply, Doc-
leur ? the Emperor came upon me and stared. I
detected my error and passed by. But what was
my astonishment at seeing a number of persons,
one after the other, standing to one side and taking
off their hats as the said officer proceeded forward.
420
THE GREAT DUKES.
On enquiry, I found that I had taken the Emperor
for a doctor.
Alexander having lost two children, whom he
had by the Empress, the heir apparent to the
throne of Russia is the Great Duke Constantine,
of whom I have formerly spoken.* It is said that
he has begun a reformation, and it is to be sincerely
hoped for the sake of those he rules, or may rule,
that it may be completed, and especially before
he ascends the throne of his country. But as the
Emperor is not much older than him, enjoys good
health, and lives most temperately, the probability
is, that he will outlive Constantine. And who can
say that the Emperor may not again become a
legitimate father ?
The Great Dukes Nikolai Pavlovitch and Mi-
chail Pavlovitch, bear good characters, and pro¬
bably the Russians would be content with either
as a sovereign, though they seem to have some
prepossession for the former, who is the oldest,
and of course has a prior claim. Should the Em¬
peror die, and not leave a son as successor, and
should the grand dukes be alive, it is thought by
many that there will be a dispute for the throne
between the party of Constantine and that of Ni¬
kolai or of Michail.
The fame and prosperity of Russia seems deeply
, connected with the life of Alexander, because
* Vide p.72. of this Voh
THE EMPRESS.-THE DOWAGER-EMPRESS. 4^7
none can tell whether the same, or equal good
qualities may be united in his successor, or whether
“ his magnanimous soul may pass to his successors
with his sceptre.”
The reigning Empress is one of’ the best and
most virtuous of her sex, and an example of con¬
jugal fidelity to all ranks of society. An air of
pensiveness, and even of melancholy, overhangs
her beautiful and interesting features, which are
rarely enlivened by a smile, and still seldomer
by laughter. Her principles and conduct are
equally worthy.
Before quitting the Imperial family, it ought to
be stated that the Dowager-Empress, the consort
of the late Paul, has also great merit. The affec¬
tion she manifested at herlmperial husband’s death,
and the manner in which she has ever cherished
his memory, do great honour to her heart. The
pains she took in the education of her children,
especially her daughters, was very praise-worthy.
She has a great number of charitable institutions,
as hospitals, foundling hospitals, schools, &c. under
her immediate protection, and she devotes much
time to their inspection and government.
It has been thought by some, that a few of my
statements, with respect to the character, customs,
manners, laws, and religion of the Russians, are
too severe, and on the contrary, I have been pri¬
vately accused of lenity and partiality toward this
people. I am not inclined to swerve from a single
12S ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE
statement, and would wish to claim the virtue of
impartiality. A few quotations, anecdotes, and
remarks which follow, may be regarded as illustra¬
tions of “ The Character of the Russians,” and
may be amusing to the reader.
In another work, often referred to, I have given
many illustrations of the superstition of the Rus¬
sians, with respect to their images ( obraza ), and
with pain I have recorded my persuasion that the
lower ranks, especially the peasants, often bestow
on them that homage which is due only to the
Supreme Being. I have also taken some pains to
show that graven images are not uncommon in the
Russian churches and chapels, and illustrated my
statements by examples, and a representation of one
of them. In the account of the monasteries and
churches of Moscow, I have noticed the miraculous
deeds attributed to the holy images. Astonishing
cures have been performed, and victories have been
gained by their presence, according to the faith of
the Russians. One would have supposed, in these
more enlightened days, that this people might have
some more just conceptions with respect to the
miraculous power of paintings of the saints, but, on
the contrary, they are as much convinced of this
as on the dawning of Christianity among them,
many centuries ago. The letters which passed
between the Emperor Alexander and Augustin the
metropolitan of Moscow, who sent the image of
St. Serge to his Imperial Majesty in 1812 , are
CHARACTER OF THE RUSSIANS.
429
quite illustrative of this truth. Alexander, what¬
ever be his ow r n ideas, wisely follows the external
rites of his faith, and perhaps complies with cere¬
monies with he thinks absurd or useless.
I shall here throw some miscellaneous quotations
together with respect to these subjects.
“ True it is,” says Collins, “ the simpler sort of
people in Russia are mere idolaters; and in the
northern parts, as Archangelo and Cola, they know
no other God but St. Nicholas, whom they really
imagine to rule all the world. * They borrow their
liturgy from the Greek church, which is written in
the Sclavonian language ; and used with as much
knowlege as the Latin among the Papists, t
They celebrate the festivals of their own saints
with greater honour than those of the Apostles.
For they say of St. Nicholas, he is Nasha Bradt,
one of our brethren ; and has a greater kindness
for us his countrymen, than St. Peter or St. Paul,
who never knew us. When they have extorted a
vast estate out of the bowels of poor people, and
grinding the faces of strangers, they think to ex¬
piate all their wicked actions at last, by building
a church, and endowing it with abundance of
images adorned with jewels, and furnishing it with
a ring of bells; this they account a meritorious
work. — Greater rogues there are not in the
* The Present State of Russia, in a Letter to a Friend, p. 91,
1671.
f Ibid, p. 3.
430 THE RELIGION OF THE RUSSIANS.
whole world, yet there is many good people also.
Such as have improved their parts by conversing
with strangers, are more civilized. * — They will
sooner take the word of a man who has a beard,
than the oath of one who is beardless.”
“ They” the Russians, says Milton, “ follow the
Greek church, but with excess of superstitions.” t
Lord Whitworth tells us, “ that the respect paid
to their pictures is the grossest kind of idolatry,
and makes up a principal part of their devotion.” t
Such are the statements of former authors: but
it was reserved for Dr. Clarke to give a lively
dramatic representation of the image-worship of
the Russians.
“ For it is not only in their churches,” says this
author, “that such paintings are preserved; every
room throughout the empire has a picture of this
nature, large or small, called the Bogh, or God,
stuck up in one "corner; to which every person
who enters offers adoration, before any salutation
is made to the master or mistress of the house: and
this adoration consists in a quick motion of the
right hand in crossing, the head bowing all the
time in a manner so rapid and ludicrous, that it
reminds one of those Chinese mandarin images
# The Present State of Russia in a Letter to a Friend, p. 92.
1671.
f A Brief History of Moscovia, by John Milton, p. 18.1682.
An Account of Russia, as it was in the year 1710. By
Charles Lord Whitworth, 1758.
THE RELIGION OF THE RUSSIANS.
431
seen upon the chimney-pieces of old houses;
which, when set a-going, continue nodding, for
the amusement of old women and children.” * In
another place he says, “ We had a very interesting
peep into the manners of the peasantry ; for which
we were indebted for the breaking of our sledge
at Poschol. The woman of the house was pre¬
paring a dinner for her family, who were gone to
church. It consisted of soup only. Presently her
husband, a boor, came in, attended by his daugh¬
ters, with some small loaves of white bread, not
larger than a pigeon’s egg, which I suppose the
priest had consecrated, for they placed them with
great care before the Bogh. Then the bowing and
crossing began, and they went to dinner, all eating
out of the same bowl. Dinner ended, they went
regularly to bed (this is wonderful), as if to pass
the night there, crossing and bowing as before.
Having slept about an hour, one of the young
women, according to an etiquette constantly ob¬
served, called her father, and presented him with
a pot of vinegar, or Quass, the Russian beverage.
The man then rose, and a complete fit of crossing
and bowing seemed to seize him, with interludes
so inexpressibly characteristic and ludicrous, that
it was very difficult to preserve gravity. The
pauses of scratching and grunting, with all the
attendant circumstances of ventriloquism and eruct-
* Clarke’s Travels in Russia, p. 25.
4*32 RELIGION OF THE RUSSIANS.-ANECDOTE.
ation; the apostrophes to his 'wife, to himself, and
to his God ; were such as drunken Barnaby might
have put into Latin, but need not be expressed in
English ! ” *
It cannot be denied that such is the general
practice of the peasants; at the same time, the late
worthy Professor, on this, as on many other occa¬
sions, has given a stage effect, and even a degree
of caricature, to his representation.
Some of the Russians are strictly abstemious,
especially during the great fasts, while others give
themselves little concern about ceremonies. The
two following anecdotes will show how easily the
Russians may be imposed upon, or rather, perhaps,
how they impose upon themselves.
Some years ago I dined at the country house of
a British family, in company with a prince who
does honour to Russia, and a countess, since dead.
One of the dishes was highly relished by all of the
party, and particularly by the two noble per¬
sonages mentioned. I had nearly committed the
landlady, by an observation about the young rab¬
bits, as they called the delicate animals served up,
when my neighbour begged me not to say a word
about the pigeons of which we had all partaken,
or there would be a terrible uproar ; “ for,” said
he, “ the Holy Ghost having assumed the form of a
dove at the baptism of Christ, the Russians hold
the pigeon to be sacred.”
* Clarke’s Travels, p.36.
ANECDOTES.
4-33
The distinguished Platon, the late metropolitan
of Moscow, who was perhaps the most learned,
and assuredly the most liberal-minded, divine Rus¬
sia ever could boast, frequently dined with the
military governor of that city. The governor,
aware that his guest was rather a bon-vivant , and
that during the fasts he did not much relish the
prescribed diet, by a very simple process, as it is
said, converted flesh into fish, and relieved, or
rather prevented, all the metropolitan’s scruples.
The servant having placed a dish of good animal
soup before the old man, the governor said, this
is Jish soup. The divine crossed himself, said
Amen, and immediately partook of it. In the
same manner, when delicate veal was served up,
the governor said, this is sturgeon, or sterlet: the
Amen was repeated, and the contents of the plate
disappeared.
Among some old English authors we have much
quaint and curious information respecting the peo¬
ple in question.
“ As touching their behauiour and quality,”
says Fletcher, “ otherwise they are of reasonable
capacities, if they had those means that some other
nations haue to traine vp their wittes in good nur¬
ture and learning.” Speaking of their government,
he says, “ Which the people would hardely beare,
if they were once ciuilled, and brought to more
vnderstanding of God, and good policie. This
causeth the Emperours to keep out all meanes of
F F
VOL. 11.
434
ANECDOTES.
making it better, and to be very warie for exclud¬
ing all peregrinitie, that might alter their fashions;
Which were less to bee disliked, if it set not a print
into the very mindes of his people. For as them-
selues are verie hardlie and cruellie dealte withall
by their chiefe magistrates, and other superiours,
so are they as cruel one against another, specially
ouer their inferiours, and such as under them. So
that the basest and wretchedest Christianoe (as
they call him) that stoupeth and crouchcth like a
dogge to the gentleman, and licketh vp the dust
that lieth at his feete, is an intolerable tyrant
where he hath the aduantagc.” — “ And yet it may
bee doubted whether is the greater, the cruel tie
or intemperancie that is vsed in that countrie. I
will not. speake of it, because it is so foule, and
not to bee named. The whole countrie ouer-
Howeth with all sinne of that kinde. And no
marueile, as halting no lawe to restraine whore-
domes, adulteries, and like vncleannesse of life.”
— “ As for the truth of his word, the Russe, for
the most part, maketh small regard of it, so he
may gaine by a lie, and breache of his promise.
And it may be saide truely (as they know best that
hatte traded most with them), that from the great
to the small (except some fewe that will scarcely
be founde) the Russe neither beleeueth any thing
that an other man speaketh, nor speaketh any
thing himselfe worthie to be beleeued.” *
* Of the Rvsse Common Wealth, p. 115,116. 1591.
ANECDOTES.
435
According to Milton, “they have no learning,
nor will suffer to he among them ; their greatest
friendship is in drinking; they are great talkers,
lyars, flatterers, and dissemblers.” *
According to Crull, “ the Muscovites are a peo¬
ple of great wit, learning, and dexterity, not want¬
ing ingenuity in any thing they undertake—
“but they are withal exceedingly proud, jealous,
and insolent; besides that, they are addicted to
drunkenness beyond any other nation in the world.”
“ The clergy as well as the laity, the women as well
as the men, young and old, of what quality or
degree soever, have their share in it.” t “ For¬
nication is look’d upon among them as a slender
trespass; and though they don’t permit public
stews, yet they are not very backward in doing
one another a kindness, especially when they are
flush’d with liquor. They don’t count it adultery
for married people to have secret conversations
with one another; adultery is not committed here,
unless a man marry another man’s wife.” t
The general justice of the following account
must be evident to all: “Plusieurs ecrivains,” says
Manstein, “ out avance, que les Russes, avant le
regne de Pierre I. etoient generalement plonges
dans l’ignorance la plus grossiere, et que c’etoient
* A Brief History of Moscovia, by John Milton, p. 21. 1682.
\ The Antient and Present State of Muscovy, by J. Crull,
M.D. p. 140. 143. 1698.
J Idem. p. 149.
F F 2
436
ANECDOTES.
des homines qui ne differoient guere de brutes, ce
qui est entierement faux.”—“ En general les Rus¬
ses ne manquent pas d’esprit. Les soins de Pierre
I. pour civiliser la nation, ne se sont jamais etendus
jusqu’au bourgeois, ou jusqu’au paysans; cepen-
dant on n’a qu’a se donner la peine d’interroger
nn liomme de cette classe, on trouvera presque
toujours qu’il a du bon sens et du jugement. Rien
entendu qu’il ne faut pas l’interroger sur des ma-
tieres relatives a son gouvernement ou a sa religion ;
parceque sur ces choses il reste toujours imbu
des prejuges de son enfance; mais sur tout le
reste il repondra avec justesse, il marquera beau-
coup de capacite pour comprendre tout ce qu’on
lui propose, il saura facilement trouver des expe-
diens pour se tirer d’affaire, et il saisira avec une
sorte de sagacite les meilleures occasions pour
arriver a son bout. Enfin j’ai toujours trouve plus
d’intelligence cliez les gens de peuple en Russie
qu’on n’en trouve communement cliez les gens de
leur etat, dans les autres pays de 1’Europe.” *
Nearly two years ago I made one of a numerous
party at the solemnisation of a fete given by a noble¬
man in honour of his lady’s name’s-day. I was
introduced to an officer who was a relation of a
gentleman present, with whom he had been living,,
and who had exceeded the time allowed him of
absence. While he related this circumstance to
* Memoires Historiques, Politiques, et Militaires, sur la Rus¬
sie, par le General de Manstein, p. 582, 583.
ANECDOTES.
437
me, lie seemed quite indifferent, and lie then ad¬
ded : — “ You will be so kind as to give me a certi¬
ficate of bad health, and that I have been under
your treatment.” I made every evasive answer ;
but, at length, when importuned, I gave a flat
denial. I now thought the matter was ended; but
I was soon afterwards called to an adjoining room
by a friend of the officer’s, who obligingly offered
to write the certificate, and requested that I would
merely sign it. I openly refused compliance, and
my answer produced some coldness. The gentle¬
man leaving the room, by way of taunt, said, “I
find you are an Englishman” and I never felt so
flattered by the compliment. I afterwards learned,
however, that my certificate would have been of
no use to him, as I was neither in the military
nor the civil service. Such certificates must have
the signature of a district-surgeon, or of the nearest
regimental surgeon. On proper application and
payment of the usual fee,—or present, as it is ge¬
nerally called,—the gentleman easily procured the
certificate he wanted. Such things daily occur.
Another officer, for whom I have a very great
regard, was taken ill in the country, and also
exceeded the prescribed time of return to his
regiment. He became my patient, but knowing
the rules of the service in such a case he never
spoke to me about a certificate. Having written
a few lines to the proper surgeon, and enclosed a
douceur, he despatched a servant with his letter, to
F F 3
438
ANECDOTES.
the distance of twenty miles. In the evening the
man returned with the desired testimonial. The
evidence of a red bank note had been of more con¬
sequence than an examination of the patient.
A titled lady, though not very rich, has long
been known at Moscow for her attentions to
English females in want of situations as governesses
in Russian families. She is never without a com¬
panion, and has sometimes two or three extra
boarders. Her house has become—like the marts
for servants in London,— the office of address,
both for the applications of nobles and of females.
I say females, because one half, nay, perhaps, three
fourths of the British governesses in Russia, have
been cooks, chambermaids, &c. who have risen to
a rank which they could fill nowhere but in the
north. I must, at the same time, allow, that there
are a few well-educated, and really genteel ladies,
who have devoted themselves to the same occupa¬
tion, and who are not always sufficiently distin¬
guished from their less worthy competitors. The
same observation, as is well known, holds with
regard to the other foreigners, as Germans and
French, who are entrusted with the education of
female youth. The extraordinary personages who
frequently have the youth of the male sex com¬
mitted to their inspection and guidance, have
been sufficiently spoken of by different authors.
But it is time to return to the subject of our
story. The lady in question, I have not the
CIVIL ADMINISTRATION OF RUSSIA.
*39
smallest doubt, has been of service to many indivi¬
duals, some of whom were deserving of her pro¬
tection, while others were not. But what will
be the surprise of the reader, on learning that
the said titled lady accepts of presents from her
protegees, after they have got places ; and that
this is well understood between the parties. The
lady, moreover, accomplishes another object, for
she is not fond of being alone, and, by the suc¬
cession of females who are in search of places, she
has constantly a companion, without being obliged
to pay her other salary than that of supporting her,
and for which she expects a return. This is a
kind of bartering of charily or hospitality, which
is far from noble, and but ill accords with British
ideas.
In The Character of the Russians, after treating
at some length of the shocking state of various
departments of the government of Russia, I have
concluded in these words : “ It may be said, that
the whole system of the administration of Russia
is like the tissue (fa decayed spider's web, or rather
like the centre of an immense wheel held together
by rotten spokes: corruption supports corruption,
rottenness props rottenness ; and this explains how
the machine still continues its onward progress.
Should a slight concussion be received in one part,
there is a sympathy of the rest, by which its force
is uniformly diffused throughout the whole, and
no single part gives way ; for when one part gives
f f 4
440
CIVIL ADMINISTRATION OF RUSSIA.
way the whole will fall; and that apparently will
not happen until liberty gives a death-blow to
despotism.” * In another part of the same work I
have said, “ that the pitiable state of the merchants
is deeply entwined with the woefully corrupt ad¬
ministration and the political condition of the
empire, and that it forms one of the rotten spokes
of one of the rotten wheels which have hitherto
kept the mighty rotten machine in motion.” t
This language is strong, but I would ask if it
can be contradicted? Does not this very work
contain numerous proofs of the fidelity of the
picture? And was it not well known to the
world before my work appeared. Mr. James says,
“There is another evil no less injurious to mo¬
rality, and no less destructive of the powers of
industry (than slavery), that it will be found far
more difficult, if not impossible, to remedy. There
exists a system of bribery and corruption through¬
out every public department that exceeds all be¬
lief. It is a mischief, no doubt, inseparable from
the principle of a despotic government, and has
been felt here from ages the most remote.” While
in Russia, I have often mentioned in public that
which I have since stated in my writings,—that the
attention of the Emperor ought to be turned to
the state of civil administration ; and, by a com¬
munication from Hamburgh, dated April 17 th,
* Character of the Russians, p.cxlix. f Ibid. p. cxxx.
ITS NEW ORGANISATION.
441
1824, exactly four months after the publication
of “ The Character of the Russians,” it appears
that his Imperial Majesty has seriously begun the
reformation. In this letter it is said, “ The mo¬
tives are now known which have induced the
Russian government to convoke a certain number
of the governors of provinces at St. Petersburgh.
Those who have most experience in such matters
have been assembled in the capital, in order to
know their opinion on the projected changes in
the organisation of the administration of the Rus¬
sian empire. There have been several sittings, in
which these changes have been discussed. The
result of these deliberations is, that the changes
ought not to be introduced simultaneously, but
successively, and that they must be prepared for
a longer or shorter period, according to the situ¬
ation and internal state of each government. The
reforms that are projected are very extensive. We
understand that most of the intended changes have
been introduced into the government of Orel.
“ Immediately after the close of the above con¬
ferences, a great number of new governors were
named. There have not only been many changes,
but also new appointments. It is observed, that
several of the governors who were present at the
conferences have been changed, and sent as supe¬
rior civil governors to those provinces where the
new organisation is to be introduced immediately.”
Every reformation must have a beginning, how-
442 OPPRESSION OP THE POLICE.
over remote may be the period destined for its
complete execution, and although, during the
reign of Alexander, the most sanguine cannot
anticipate a great change in a system founded on
the corruption of the human heart, rivetted by
long custom, and necessitated by small salaries;
yet, centuries hence, the name of that sovereign
may be associated with a code of laws, which
history will mark as the brightest monument of his
government.
In The spring of 1822, a gentleman, now residing
near London, after a short stay at Moscow, re¬
solved to set off on his travels to the south. Every
thing had been arranged for his departure; even
his passport and his poclorojne had been received.
A short time before he entered his travelling car¬
riage, and while I was in conversation with him,
a police officer, of whom he knew nothing, entered
the apartment. My friend was exceedingly sur¬
prised, and even confounded. Unable to speak to
the officer, he begged me to ask what he wanted.
Though I understood the object of his visit, I
hearkened to his speech. The Kvartdlnik (district
police-officer) now prayed me to tell my friend,
that he had called upon him, as he resided in his
quarter, and as he understood he was about to
commence his travels, in order to offer his services,
if they coidd be at all useful in assisting arrange¬
ments ; and if not, as was customary, to xcish him
a good journey, I translated all the Kvartdlnik
OPPRESSION OF THE POLICE.
443
said, which heightened his surprise. I then told
him, he had better shake hands with the Kvar¬
tdlnilc, accompany the grasp with a silver rouble,
and bid him adieu. The Kvartdlnilc instantly
made a polite low bow, and withdrew. This is
one of the modes which the police have of aug¬
menting their income, not merely among travellers
and foreigners, but likewise among their country¬
men. The Kvartdlnilc alluded to above,' in whose
district I also resided, to my certain knowledge,
kept an excellent table, and a droshlci and pair of
horses for a beloved concubine, at the time the
above circumstance happened.
Even the common watchmen ( Butushnilci ) have
many ways of disturbing the inhabitants of towns.
As there generally live three together in small
houses erected at the necessary places, and keep
watch night and day in their turn, so they know of
almost every thing that passes within the limits of
their assigned range. They have the means of
receiving, or of obtaining, almost by compulsion,
many trifling douceurs, or, as it is termed in Russ,
deugi na Vodtki, i. e. drink-money. They complain
that your servants have not cleaned the street or
the pavement opposite your house that quantities
of snow, which have collected by drifting, must
be carried away ; that the pipes which convey the
rain-water from the house are in want of repair;
and such like things, and they will threaten to
make a report to the Kvartdlnilc . But a trifle puts
soldiers’ quarters.
441 -
all to rights, and if any thing is really not in order,
the watchman sometimes assists in the necessary
change; but, generally, the dengi na vodtki being
pocketed, all complaint ceases, and things remain
in statu quo.
One day last summer, I called upon an acquaint¬
ance, and while speaking with him a Butushnik
was announced. Having entered the room by my
friend’s desire, he said he had come to make a
complaint: — “ Your people,” said he, “ who are
taking out rubbish, in laying it down upon the
street, have exceeded the boundaries which the
police allows.” My friend, aware of the fact,
replied, “ Well, my good fellow, that shall soon
be remedied.” He ordered a servant to give the
watchman a glass of vodtki, and put a ten kopeelc
silver-piece (not four-pence) into his hand, when
he politely returned thanks and walked of£ his
object having been gained. The rubbish lay all
day in the same place, but no complaint was
repeated.
In all the towns of Russia, upon making cer¬
tain arrangements, house-proprietors are exempted
from providing quarters for soldiers. All houses,
so privileged, display an ensign with the words
“ Svobodna ot Post,” i. e. exempt from soldiers’
quarters. Those whose property had not obtained
such exemption, and at times even those who had,
have been oppressed in a manner that exceeds all
belief. I know those upon whom ten, twenty, and
RANKS AND TITLES OF THE RUSSIANS. 445
even thirty soldiers have been billetted, if I may
so speak, at once ; a simple notice having a short
time preceded their arrival. Indeed it has hap¬
pened that even less ceremony has been used.
Scarcely had a gentleman and his servants ex¬
pressed their surprise on seeing a number of soldiers
drawn up in the court-yard, when the accompany¬
ing under-officer entered the house with an order
for quarters for the whole, and, before an answer
was given, asked where they were to be placed.
On showing surprise, and demanding a little time
for preparations, the grossest insolence and abuse
followed, and the soldiers entered the house,
saying they would make good their quarters.
While they lodged in it they uselessly consumed
such quantities of wood and candles as caused a
serious expense. Speaking was vain, and reproof
was useless, to these Russians, who are excessively
fond of warm chambers, heated like stoves, and
who could procure this enjoyment by a little exer¬
tion, and at no expense. To have complained
to the police would have been equally futile, unless
a present had accompanied the complaint; and this
present might have equalled, if not exceeded, the
unnecessary waste of fuel or candles.
The gradations of rank which exist in Russia
have been forcibly alluded to by many writers, and
very generally either in terms of reprobation or of
derision. Though such nice distinctions may have
had, and still have, a considerable degree of utility
4tG RANKS AND TITLES OF THE RUSSIANS.
in a despotic country, especially in facilitating the
steps of any department of its administration, yet
it must be granted that they have also had a
baneful influence upon society. They seem to
be held up as the summum bonum of exertion, of
talent, and of life: they have taken the place of
virtue, of morality, and of religion, in the estima¬
tion of human character, and have thus done away
the strongest excitements to intellectual refine¬
ment, to the cultivation of arts and sciences, and
to the practice of moral and religious duties.
The badges of the Russian orders, — ribbons,
crosses, medals, and cordons, — are so common
as to astonish almost all foreigners. Thev at
first believe they are meeting distinguished indi¬
viduals at every step, and at length are ready to
conclude that it is a mark of distinction to be with¬
out any insignia of rank.
An enumeration of the titles and addresses used
in Russia, will give the reader considerable inform¬
ation as to the political constitution of this country.
Besides the titles of prince, count, baron, ge¬
neral, admiral, &c. which have been borrowed from
fbreign languages, some others are peculiar to
it. The following are the chief titles and terms of
address: —
Imper&tor, - Emperor.
Imperatntsa, - Empress.
Tsar, - - King or Sovereign.
Tsaritsa, - Queen.
RANKS AND TITLES OF THE RUSSIANS. 447
Gosudar (masc.), - Monarch.
Gosudarina (fern.), Ditto.
Tsarevitch, - Son of the Tsar.
Tsarevna, - Daughter of the Tsar.
Velfkii Kniaz, - Great Duke.
Velfka Kniaginya, Great Duchess.
Kniaz, - - Prince.
Kniaginya, - Princess.
Graph, - - Count.
Graphinya, - Countess.
Velitchestvo, - Majesty.
Visdtchcstvo, - Highness.
Siatelstvo, - Prince, literally Splendour.
Visokoprevoshodftelstvo, This term, which can only be ren¬
dered in English by High Excel¬
lency, is applied to the first and
second classes of the nobles.
Prevoshoditelstvo, Excellency. Given to nobles of the
third and fourth classes.
Visokorddiye, - This term is applied to nobles of the
fifth class, and is a degree inferior
to Excellency.
Visokoblaghorddiye, Very Noble, or Nobleness: belongs
to officers of high rank.
Blaghorddiye, - Noble, Nobleness. This is the low¬
est title of noble rank ; it is given
to inferior officers, and is often
bestowed by way of compliment.
Gospodin, - Sir.
Gospoja, - Madam.
Gosud&r, * - Sir.
* I know not by what chance this word came to signify em¬
peror, and also to be applied to the meanest noble or person in
the realm. It is seen on the back of every letter, except those
of the peasants and slaves, and is generally preceded by the
adjective miiostivii , and is then equal to Gracious Sir. If a
letter is sent to an equal it begins thus: tc To the gracious
Sir, Mr.-; and if to a superior, To my gracious Sir,
Mr.--—
448 RANKS AND TITLES OF THE RUSSIANS.
Gosudarina,
Barin,
Barina,
Batushka, 1
Matushka, j
Tainii Sovetnik,
Kollejskii Sovetnik,
Nadvdrnii Sovetnik,
Titularnii Sovetnik,"
Madam.
Master, Proprietor, Gentleman.
Mistress, &c.
Terms of courtesy, vide p. 255. and
p. 259. Notes, of this Volume.
Privy Counsellor.
Counsellor of the College.
Court, or Aulic Counsellor.
Titular Counsellor.
The ranks in the army and navy are nearly the
same as those of other countries, and words cor¬
responding to colonel, captain, lieutenant, &c. are
to be found in the Russian language. Military
titles form the standard of rank in Russia, and, it
may almost be said, of merit or demerit. Those
of prince, count, &c. confer little distinction,
without some military rank, or at least some mili¬
tary title; for many civil officers are generals,
captains, &c. who never were in the military or the
naval service.
Among the clergy we find metropolitans, arch¬
bishops, bishops, archimandrites , monks, priests,
&c., and the following addresses are used to dis¬
criminate them: —
Visokopreosviatschenstvo,
Preosviatchenstvo,
Visokoprepod6biy<$,
Prepodobiye,
Most Reverend Lordship. This ad¬
dress is used for metropolitans,
or archbishops.
Eminence; Lordship : applied to
bishops.
Very Reverend: bestowed on ab¬
bots, and priors of convents.
Reverend: given to monks and
priests.
CLERGY. — MERCHANTS.
PEASANTS. 449
Since the days of Paul, the clergy have received
civil rank, so that it is very common to find the
cross of Christ and the cross of a Russian order
suspended together from the neck.
The merchants are divided into three guilds *
according to their declared capital. The most dis¬
tinguished take the title of KommertcheskiiSovefnik,
or counsellor of commerce, and wear its badge of
honour, a large medal, suspended round the neck
by a blue ribbon. All the merchants are addressed
as Gospadtm , or Sirs, and so are the simple Mest-
chanins , or burgesses.
The peasants are addressed simply thus : John
the son of James {Ivan Yakovlevilcfi). But, con¬
trary to the assertion of some travellers, they have
a family name, which is used on necessary occa¬
sions, as in law deeds, contracts, &c. The Em¬
peror may be addressed in the same words as
the meanest peasant of the empire (whose name is
the same), simply Alexander Pavlovitch, or Alex¬
ander the son of Paul; and nothing is so polite as
this mode of address, nor is so much cherished by
the natives of all ranks.
It is a fact now generally known, that, according
to his rank in life, a person is permitted to drive
certain kinds of carriages, and a certain number of
horses, and at one period the laws were rigidly
observed, so that a man’s rank was known by his
* Vide Character of the Russians, p. 27 3 •
VOL. It. G G
450
ANECDOTE.
equipage. The same laws still exist, but they are
not strictly adhered to ; great toleration being al¬
lowed by the present government.
To so great a length did the attention to rank
and titles extend about twenty years ago, that the
address of every letter was examined at the post-
office before being received. If any address was
found deficient in the full title of the individual,
or if the smallest error was remarked, the letter
was returned to be enclosed in another envelope,
according to the custom of the country, and ad¬
dressed anew. At length the address of a letter
absolutely became a sort of narrative of the indi¬
vidual to whom it was sent, and required some
time to be read. * No such troublesome and in¬
convenient punctilio is now observed.
* To this day the same practice exists with respect to any
public deeds. A single example will suffice. In a podorojnd
which we received from Count Langeron at Odessa, and which
I preserve, only ten lines (one half written) relate to its object,
while sixteen printed lines are occupied in telling us about the
General. As it is really a curiosity, I shall give a translation
of the part alluded to, verbatim et literatim , with the words as
nearly in the same order as their sense will permit. — “ Of His
Most Gracious Majesty the Gosudar; the General of infantry
in the suite of His Majesty; Military Governor of Khersdn;
acting as civil governor of Kherson, Yekaterinoslaf, and the
Taurida ; Chief Commander of the town of Odessa, and of all
the commercial ports of the Black Sea and the Sea of Azoph,
and of the frontiers ; Chevalier of the orders of St. Andrew; of
St. Alexander Nevskii ornamented with brilliants; of St. George,
large cross, second rank ; of St. Vladimir, first rank; of St. Ann,
first rank ; of the Austrian order Maria Theresa, third class ; of
ANECDOTE.
451
The following anecdote will illustrate the ho¬
mage which some of the nobles expect.
A physician who, many years ago, resided in
one of the governments of the interior of Russia,
with a very rich and distinguished nobleman, was
more characterised for his professional talents and
good sense than for attention to the punctilio, and
the unmeaning compliments which are so highly
valued in the northern empire, and which very
often make up for all deficiencies of knowledge in
the healing art. Though by no means wanting in
good manners, or the respect due to elevated rank,
he had the misfortune to offend his employer in a
manner which we Britons should suppose some¬
what singular, had it happened between a noble¬
man and a physician in this country.
My friend made his morning visit, as usual,
to the noble, who gave him a severe reprimand,
expressed in very violent terms, because he had
not saluted him with a more respectful bow, —
“ a lower bow” — on entering his room.
The subsequent anecdote illustrates the treat¬
ment medical men at times receive from the Rus-
the French order of St. Lewis; of the Prussian orders of the
Black and Red Eagle, large cross ; of the Swedish order of the
Sword, first class ; of the order of St. John of Jerusalem, and
of the American Sinsinatus; having a golden -sword with an
inscription for bravery, and medals for the storm of Ismail, and
for the year 1812. (Signed)
“ Count Langeron.”
G G 2
452
ANECDOTE.
sian nobles, and was recounted to me by a gentle¬
man, formerly a resident in Russia. He was en¬
gaged to go to that country as physician to a noble¬
man, a descendant of one of the highest families
in the empire. Having arrived at Petersburgh, he
entered a vast and magnificent palace, in which he
was splendidly entertained, and was led to form the
most agreeable predictions with respect to the com¬
fort of his situation. Judge then of his astonish¬
ment in the evening, after the descent of a number
of stairs, when he found himself lodged in the
sousbasement, which is generally occupied by the
servants, or at least a part of them, in the houses
of the nobility in Russia. After gazing all round
a small dirty apartment, which was dignified with
the appellation of a spalnya, or bed-room, and
being quite disgusted, my friend knew not what to
do, as the family, with whom he spoke French,
had retired to bed, and he could not hold any com¬
munication, except by signs, with the servant who
had accompanied him. However revolting to his
feelings, he therefore determined to pass one night
in the said bed-room, and then to make a represent¬
ation. He went to bed, but not to sleep, for the
privacy of his apartment was soon disagreeably
intruded upon by formidable enemies, who made
their approaches on all sides, and traversed the bed
in every direction. After vainly attempting to set
them at defiance, he put himself upon the defen¬
sive, and by a vigorous use of a cane which he
RUSSIAN TABLES.
453
fortunately had at hand, he convinced himself that
the enemies with whom he had to contend were
rats, and put them to flight for the moment, but
they retreated only to renew the contest each time
that he had begun to compose himself to sleep, and
the night was passed in a state of constant warfare
with these unwelcome intruders.
Dr. Clarke says, “ the etiquette of precedency,
so rigorously observed at a Russian table, prevails
also in the order of the dishes and bottles arranged
for the guests. In barbarous times we had some¬
thing like it in England. Perhaps the custom is
not even now quite extinct in Wales; it is pre¬
served in large farm-houses in remote parts of Eng¬
land, where all the family, from the master to the
lowest menial, sit down to the same table. The
choicest dishes are carefully placed at the upper
end, and are handed to those guests who sit near
the owner of the mansion, according to the order
in which they sit; afterwards, if any thing remains,
it is taken gradually to the rest. Thus a degree
in precedency makes all the difference between
something and nothing to eat; for persons at the
bottom of the table are often compelled to rest
satisfied with an empty dish. It is the same with
regard to the wines; the best are placed near the
top of the table, but, in proportion as the guests are
removed from the post of honour, the wine before
them diminishes in quality, until at last itdegenerates
into simple quass. Few things can offer more re-
454
KUSSIAN TABLES.
pugnance to the feelings of an Englishman than
the example of a wealthy glutton pouring forth
eulogiums upon the choice wines he lias placed
before a stranger, merely out of ostentation, while
a number of brave officers and dependants are
sitting by him to whom he is unable to offer a
single glass. I sometimes essayed a violation of
this barbarous custom, by taking the bottle placed
before me and filling the glasses of those below ;
but the offer was generally refused through fear of
giving offence by acceptance, and it was a mode
of conduct which I found could not be tolerated,
even by the most liberal host. At a Russian table
two tureens of soup usually make their appearance,
as we often see them in England; but if a stranger
should ask for that which is placed at the bottom
of the table, the master of the house regards him
with dismay, the rest all gaze at him with wonder,
and when he tastes what he has obtained, he finds
it to be a mess of dirty and abominable broth, sta¬
tioned for those who never venture to ask for soup
from the upper end of the table.” *
This statement seems to be a mixture of truth
and caricature. With respect to precedency, the
wines, and the dishes, the general account is quite
correct. I have repeatedly seen the meats, pastry,
and fruit fall short of serving the whole party ; but
this is not always the case. I have often remarked
* Clarke’s Travels, p. 634.
CLIMATE OF RUSSIA.—ICE FALACE-
455
that some of the dependants received an inferior
wine or none at all. I do not know any thing of
two tureens of soup being placed upon the table
in Russia, where all the dishes are handed round
by the servants. When there are two kinds of
soup the individual generally has his choice; for
if he refuses the first kind the second is brought to
him. The “ dirty and abominable broth” to which
Dr. Clark alludes, was most likely stchi, or sour
cabbage soup, which is a favourite dish of the
Russians, and although its odour is not the most
agreeable, it is highly relished by foreigners after
a short residence in their country.
I had an intention of making some remarks on
the climate of Russia, especially of Moscow, but
they would extend to too great a length for these
volumes. I have chosen, however, the represent¬
ation of an ice palace for the vignette of this chap¬
ter, which I shall now proceed to explain.
The works of Parry, Lyon, and others, of late,
have made the public familiar with the ice houses
of the inhabitants of the polar regions, and the
ice palace which was constructed at Petersburgh
in the year 1740, has been frequently noticed in
several books, and especially by chemical writers.
Yet, to my knowledge, no view or complete and
accurate description of that palace has been given
to the British public. I therefore think that a
short account of this edifice may amuse the general
reader, while it may be referred to by the philo-
o g 4
456
THE ICE EALACE.
soplier as a curious illustration of the power of
cold, and the density and application of ice. I
have taken the following description, and the view
of the ice palace with its appendages, from the
work of Kraft, the celebrated academician, which
was published the year after its erection. * From
the author’s statement it appears that, seven years
anterior to the erection of the palace in ques¬
tion, an ice castle and garrison had been built upon
the river Neva. But the ice bent under their
weight and that of the soldiers who guarded them.
At the whimsical marriage of Prince Gallitsint,
it was resolved to erect a palace of ice, and to
avoid the same occurrence, a situation between
the Admiralty and the Winter-Palace was chosen
for its foundation on terra Jirma, and Mr. A. D.
Tatistchef, one of the lords of the bed-chamber,
was instructed to superintend the execution of
the scheme according to a regular plan. It may
be difficult to determine whether the expenses of
the erection of this ice palace, or the purpose for
which it was destined, as the temporary residence
* The small work in quarto is entitled Podlinnoye i obstoya -
telnoye postroennaho iv SanktpeterLurch6 iv Genvard JWesiatse,
1740. Ledianaho Doma , §c. ; or, A True and Particular Ac¬
count of the Ice House built at St. Petersburgh in the Month
of January 1740; by George Kraft, Member of the Imperial
Academy of Sciences, and Professor of Physics. Printed at
the Imperial Academy of Sciences, 1741.
f Vide Tooke’s Catherine II.
ICE DOLPHINS, SANNON, MORTARS, &C. 457
of the Prince already mentioned and his bride,
demonstrated the highest degree of folly.
The ice palace was constructed of blocks of ice cut
out of the winter covering of the Neva, which were
from two to three feet in thickness, according to
necessity. Being properly formed and adjusted to
each other, water was poured between them, which,
being soon frozen, acted the part of cement; so
that the whole edifice, with its furniture, may be
said to have consisted of one immense mass of ice.
The length of the edifice was fifty-six, its breadth
seventeen and a half, and its height twenty-one
feet. It was constructed according to the strictest
rules of art, and was adorned with a portico, co¬
lumns, and statues. It consisted of a single story,
whose front was provided with a door and fourteen
windows, the frames of the latter, as well as the
panes, being all formed of ice. The sides of the
doors and of the windows were painted in imitation
of green marble.
On each side of the door was a dolphin, from
the mouths of which, by means of naphtha, volumes
of flame were emitted in the evening. Next to
them were two mortars, equal to eighty-pounders,
from which many bombs were thrown, a quarter
of a pound of powder being used for each charge.
On each side of the mortars stood three cannons,
equal to three-pounders, mounted upon carriages
and with wheels, which were often used. In the
presence of a number of persons attached to the
458 ICE DOLPHINS, CANNON, MORTARS, &C.
court, a bullet was driven through a board two
inches thick, at the distance of sixty paces, by one
of these cannon ; a quarter of a pound of powder
being also used for a charge.
The interior of the edifice had no ceiling, and
consisted of a lobby and two large apartments;
one on each side, which were well furnished and
painted in the most elegant manner, though merely
formed of ice, Tables, chairs, statues, looking-
glasses, candlesticks, watches, and other ornaments,
besides tea-dishes, tumblers, wine-glasses, and even
plates with provisions, were seen in one apartment,
also formed of ice and painted of their natural
colours; while in the other was remarked a state-
bed with curtains, bed, pillows, and bed-clothes,
two pairs of slippers, and two night-caps of the same
cold material.*
Behind the cannon, the mortars, and the dol¬
phins, stretched a low balustrade. On each side
of the building was a small entrance, pots with
flowers, and orange trees, partly formed of ice and
partly natural, on which birds sat. Beyond these
were erected two icy pyramids. On the right of
one of them stood an elephant, which was hol¬
low, and so contrived as to throw out burning
naphtha, while a person within it, by means of a
tube, imitated the natural cries of this animal. On
* Kraft’s Work contains two views of the interior of the
ice palace.
IMPROVEMENTS AT MOSCOW.
459
the left of the other pyramid was seen the never-
failing concomitant of all princely dwellings in
Russia, a banya, or bath, apparently formed of
balks, which is said to have been sometimes heated,
and even to have been appropriated to use.
The appearance of the ice palace, it is said,
was remarkably splendid when lighted up in the
evening with numerous candles. Amusing trans¬
parencies were usually suspended in the windows
to increase the effect, and the emission of flames
by the dolphins and the elephant, all tended to ex¬
cite greater surprise, while the people beheld the
crystalline mass.
As was naturally to be expected, crowds of vi¬
sitors were continually seen around this fantastic
and unique construction, which remained entire
from the beginning of January almost to the mid¬
dle of March. At the end of the latter month,
however, the glassy fabric began to melt, and soon
afterwards it was broken into pieces which were
conveyed to the Imperial ice-cellar.
I have elsewhere described every object at Mos¬
cow worthy of notice, and even represented the
most remarkable as they existed in 1822 . By com¬
munications from Russia, I find that immense im¬
provements are still going on in that capital, and
that the newly-repaired, or rather rebuilt, theatre
is one of the finest edifices in the world. It is of
a huge size, and has a most magnificent appear¬
ance. The gardens of Alexander are still more
460
IMPROVEMENTS AT MOSCOW.
imposing than when I described them. Palaces
and houses are rising or repairing in all quarters
of the city.* Indeed Moscow is gradually recover¬
ing from her misfortune. May heaven grant her
prosperity, and her people advancement in civilisa¬
tion, with all its concomitant blessings.
* The reader will find a description of the church of Our
Saviour, which is to be erected on the Sparrow-hill, in p. 484.
of the Appendix.
CHAP. XXIV,
CIVIL AND MILITARY HOSPITALS IN RUSSIA. — MARY’S HOSPI¬
TAL AT PETERSBURG!!. — NAVAL HOSPITALS.—DIVISIONS OF
THE MEDICAL DEPARTMENT IN RUSSIA. — SIR ALEXANDER
CRICHTON_DR. LEIGHTON. — SIR JAMES WYLIE, BART.—
OUTLINES OF IIIS LIFE. — PHYSICAL CHARACTER OE THE
RUSSIANS.—TOOKE’S OPINION. — DR. CLARKE’S OPINION.-
MR. JAMES’ OPINION. — DEPARTURE FROM MOSCOW. - THE
KHERSON GATES AT NOVGOROD-MILITARY COLONISATION.
—NEW ROAD BETWEEN PETERSBURG!! AND MOSCOW.-THE
ESTABLISHMENT OF DILIGENCES . — PETERSBURGII. — CON¬
CLUSION.
It is impossible to travel through Russia without
being forcibly struck with the fine appearance of
many hospitals, both civil and military. They are
462 CIVIL AND M1LIT. HOSPITALS.-MARy’s HOSPITAL,
numerous in Moscow and St. Petersburgh, and are
generally built in an excellent style of architecture,
combining as much ornament as is necessary for,
and consistent with, utility. They do great credit
to the nation, and especially to the Emperor Alex¬
ander, who has been most liberal towards their en¬
dowment, and is always watchful of their state.
His visits are frequent, and often unexpected, and
he takes great pleasure in their improvement.
In “ The Character of the Russians, &c.” I have
described all the principal hospitals of Moscow, as
Paul’s, Galitsin’s, Sheremetof’s, Catherine’s, &c.
and especially the chief military hospital. Most
of those structures are of immense size, and are
well arranged. At Petersburgh the military hos¬
pitals are particularly well organised, and the hos¬
pital of the Dowager Empress Mary might serve
as a model for such establishments throughout the
world, whether we regard its exterior appearance or
its internal arrangement. In order that the reader
may have a general idea of the architecture of such
institutions, whether civil or military, I have
caused a representation of the last-mentioned hos¬
pital to be engraved as the vignette of the present
chapter. The best hospitals are built of brick, but
many of them are also constructed of wood, and
it is not uncommon to find an assemblage of one
story structures in lieu of one large edifice, espe¬
cially in the interior of the empire.
The naval hospitals are not such fine structures
SIR A. CRICHTON. — DR. LEIGHTON. 4(>3
in general as those mentioned, except at Peters-
burgh. Those at Cronstadt are of great size, but
of a very plain appearance, and their interior, as
well as their management, admits of great improve¬
ment.
In Russia there are three chiefs of correspond¬
ing divisions of the Medical department, the Civil,
the Military , and the Naval, and it is remarkable
that, till very lately, they were all Britons.
The distinguished Sir Alexander Crichton was at
the same time chief of the Civil division, and phy¬
sician to the Emperor and the Dowager Empress.
He attempted to introduce many improvements,
but was not completely successful. The fault, how¬
ever, was not his, but arose from the general state
of the country, and the prejudices and stubbornness
of the natives. He commenced a reformation
which it is to be hoped will be completed. He is
succeeded by Dr. Reliman, a German physician,
who had influence enough to obtain the appoint¬
ment, even though opposed by Sir James Wylie.
Though Dr. Leighton is chief of the Naval divi¬
sion, I have heard, that almost all the hospitals are
greatly in want of new arrangements. I have no
doubt that this gentleman finds it very difficult to
make alterations, and perhaps he has learned by
experience that the best way of acting is to receive
his salary and let the Russians go on their own
way. There is some wisdom in this, because the
man who wishes to make great improvements, un-
461 -
SIR JAMES WYJ.1E, BART.
less under the immediate inspection of the Em¬
peror, or of a few well-known, spirited, liberal, and
well-informed individuals, runs the risk of being
not only laughed at and opposed, but also of be¬
coming the object of intrigue and abuse.
Dr. Leighton is one of those men to whom fate
has been extremely propitious since his arrival at
Petersburgh. A very short time after he reached
this city, he had the good fortune to be called to
visit the lady of Admiral Tchitchagofj who was
very ill during her confinement. The ignorance,
or the negligence, of the other medical attendants
was of great use to the Doctor, who by timely ve¬
nesection at once relieved his patient’s suffering,
and she became a mother. In this manner he
gained the Admiral’s protection and recommenda¬
tion, which, with his own assiduity and success, soon
brought him into great practice as an accoucheur.
Indeed he has long had the best practice in this
department at Petersburgh, and it is said that he
has amassed a considerable fortune.
Sir James Wylie, who is chief of the Military
division, is one of the most notorious and most
powerful individuals in Russia, His career has
been extraordinary, and well illustrates what fate
seems to have propitiously destined for some of
her favourites. With no very brilliant medical
talents, with but very moderate scientific ac¬
quirements, and with much singularity and little
refinement of manners. Sir James Wylie has risen
OUTLINES OF Silt JAMES WYLIE’S LIFE. 465
from the most obscure parentage to be the hi st me¬
dical person in the Russian empire. His parents
were well known on the banks of the Forth and of
the Clyde, and obtained notoriety on account of
their son’s elevation. The good old folks per¬
formed their duty to him in his youth, and fur¬
nished him the means of getting a medical educa¬
tion at the university of Edinburgh, at the conclu¬
sion of which he went to Russia. After his arrival
at Petersburgh, he entered the army, and combined
the duty of surgeon and tutor to one of the sons of
Colonel Fenshaw, to whose regiment he belonged.
He was afterwards stationed for some time at Mos¬
cow, and then in the interior of the empire, with a
noble family. Through the interest of the late Dr.
Rogerson, he was appointed operator at the court,
and I believe he retained this situation while he
also lived in the family of Count Strogonof. A
new and important epoch of his life approached,
and the whim of the Emperor Paul led to his rise
in life. This monarch had raised one of his
lowest attendants to the rank of Count, and had
bestowed upon him an ample fortune in money
and property. Count KutaiSof *, for this was the
said Count’s name, was seized with a violent in¬
flammation of the fore part of the neck, that ter¬
minated in a large abscess, by which his Excellency
endured great pain and extreme difficulty of respir-
* Sec his history in the Life of Catherine II.
VOL. II.
H II
4(>() OUTLINES OF SIR JAMES WYLIE’S LIFE.
ation. Indeed he was threatened with suffoca¬
tion. The patient was attended by a number of
the first medical men at court, who never thought
of the only means of relief the opening of the
abscess. In the extremity of his disease, some
friend advised the Count to send for Dr. Wylie in
the middle of the night. On his arrival this gen¬
tleman opened the tumour, and an immense quan¬
tity of matter was evacuated ; the pain of tension
was at once relieved, and the pressure upon the
trachea, or windpipe, being removed, the breath¬
ing became natural. In an instant Count Kutaisof
was restored to comparative health. On the fol¬
lowing morning, Paul, as usual, sent to enquire re¬
specting the Count’s state, and was astonished at
the above relation. Paul then sent for Dr. Wylie,
and appointed him to attend the court as physi¬
cian.
After Count Kutaisof’s recovery, and Sir James
Wylie’s advancement, it was jocularly reported,
that “ Dr. Wylie had made his fortune by cutting
Count Kutaisof s throat .” This anecdote may be
heard repeated almost every morning throughout
the year at Sir J. Wylie’s levee, with all the pecu¬
liarity and naivete which characterise this gentle¬
man.
Some other cases, equally fortunate for Sir James
Wylie, soon afterwards occurred; so in truth it
may be said, that he rose upon the ignorance or
stupidity of his contemporaries. His good fortune
OUTLINES OF SIR JAMES WYLIE’S LIFE. 4(>7
made him the subject of’numerous plans to accom¬
plish his ruin, but he defeated them all by extreme
watchfulness, assiduity, and interest.
After Paul’s death, and Alexander’s ascent to
the throne, Sir James Wylie still preserved his
place, and has successively been appointed his Ma¬
jesty’s Body-Surgeon and Physician, Chief of the
Military Medical Department, President of the
Medico-Chirurgical Academy, &c., and has had nu¬
merous Russian and foreign orders conferred upon
him. Besides, he has been chosen a member of
almost all the learned societies in Russia, and also
of a few in Great Britain and upon the Continent.
In addition to all these distinctions, after shar¬
ing the dangers and the honours of the campaign
in 1 SI2-13, by particular request of the Emperor
Alexander, he was knighted by the Prince Regent,
on board one of his Majesty’s ships at Portsmouth ;
Platof’s sword being used on the occasion. He
was also made a Baronet of Great Britain. Since
he became attached to the Emperor, he has ac¬
companied his Majesty in almost all his journeys
throughout Russia, as well as other countries.
Sir James Wylie was reckoned a good surgeon,
and indeed was known as an expert and successful
lithotomist, before his appointment as operator at
court, and had acquired much reputation both
at Moscow and Petersburg]!. Since his appoint¬
ment to the head of the military department, he
has been most assiduous in his duties, and has
ii n 2
468 OUTLINES OF SIR JAMES WYLIe’s LIFE.
much merit for having greatly raised the medical
character, introduced numerous improvements into
surgical practice, and re-organised the military
hospitals. With the assistance of a number of the
professors, he also composed a Pharmacopoeia,
which has had its use in that empire, though a
work of little ingenuity or merit; and, unfortu¬
nately, the knight, in his ardour for the adop¬
tion of new names, has composed some almost the
width of a page, than which nothing can be more
ridiculous. A letter of mine, written by his de¬
sire, addressed to him, and published in the Edin¬
burgh Medical and Surgical Journal, nearly nine
years ago, points out the folly and the danger of a
continual change of pharmaceutical nomenclature.
In consequence of the favour in which Sir J-
Wylie is held, or is supposed to be held, by the
Emperor, he has acquired much importance in
affairs which do not belong to his department.
Princes, generals, and officers of all ranks are daily
seen at his levees, some of whom he treats in the
most extraordinary manner, as if they were quite
his dependants. But, as he has obtained a charac¬
ter for oddity and drollery, whether real or affected
I shall not presume to determine, every liberty is
excused. The protection of the Emperor, besides,
is a shield against all complaints in a country where
the degradation of despotism and slavery is still
manifest in all ranks of society, at least to those
PHYSICAL CHARACTER OE THE RUSSIANS, 469
who lnive opportunities of witnessing their transac¬
tions when under no restraint.
Sir Janies Wylie has avoided private practice.
He lives in his apartments in the Imperial palace,
in the most economical, I might say niggardly,
manner, and seldom or never pays for a dinner. If
obliged to remain at home, I have been told that,
soldier-like, he makes his repast on black bread and
salt. But, in general, he goes, without invitation,
to some acquaintance, either in the palace or in the
city, and dines en famille , agreeably to the custom
of the country. He has acquired considerable
wealth, and has now the revenues of two (trends,
or estates, which the Emperor has bestowed upon
him: but he is by no means so rich as many ima-
gine.
Before quitting Russia, I may be expected to
say something of the physical character of the na¬
tives, especially as the accounts of preceding
writers are so extremely opposite. I shall illus¬
trate this by some quotations.
Tooke, after telling us that the Russians are a
moderate-sized, well-built, vigorous, and durable
race of men, makes the following remarks : —
“ Easy as it is occasionally, by comparison, to
discriminate the Russian by his outward make from
other Europeans, it will, however, be found very
difficult to point out the principal lineaments of
the national physiognomy, as speaking features are
II h 3
470 tooke’s, clakke’s, and james’s opinions.
in general extremely rare. The following may be
deemed common and characteristical: a small
mouth, thin lips, white teeth, little eyes, a low
forehead. The nose has a great variety of forms ; it
is most frequently seen to be small, and turned up¬
wards. The beard is almost always very bushy;
the colour of the hair varies through all the shades,
from dark brown to red, but it is seldom quite
black. The expressidn of the countenance is gra¬
vity, good-nature, and sagacity. Hearing and
sight are usually very acute, but the other senses
more or less obtuse by manner of living and cli¬
mate. The gait and gestures of the body have a
peculiar and often impassioned vivacity, partaking,
even with the mere rustics, of a certain complai¬
sance, and an engaging manner.” #
“ In the general appearance of features and
countenance,” says Clarke, “ the Russians have
nothing very characteristic ; and, when their beards
are cut off, as is the case with those who live as ser¬
vants in the families of gentlemen, they could not
be distinguished from Englishmen; but, in the
dresses of the people, we are reminded of the in¬
habitants of some Asiatic towns, though perhaps in
summer, when the robes, pelisses, and caps are not
worn, the impression maybe different.” t
Mr. James had very opposite ideas from Clarke.
He states authoritatively, that “ the general cha-
* Tooke’s View of the Russian Empire, vol. ii. p.252.
t Clarke’s Travels. Scandinavia, p.483. 1823.
DEPARTURE FROM MOSCOW.—KHERSON GATES. 4*71
rncter of the Russian countenance differs as much
from the European face, as the Mantshoo Tartar
from the Mongol, or Chinese from the Hindu, and
may be said to bear the same genuine character as
the two former of these nations. The Russian
face is marked by high broad cheek-bones, and a
short triangular form of face.” *
On this occasion I am inclined to differ from
Mr. James, and in a great measure to agree with
Tooke and Clarke.
In the year 1823,1 left Moscow for Petersburgh.
The road between the capitals has been described
by many travellers. I shall therefore merely allude
to its novelties and recent intelligence.
I have particularly described the Cathedral
of St. Sophia at Novgorod in my Essay on
Architecture in Russia t: and I may mention
here, that the distinguished writer, Adelung, has
published a thin quarto volume at Berlin, illus¬
trated with plates, in which he gives his own opi¬
nion, and reports many facts to prove, that the
famous Kherson gates, as they arc called, of this
temple, were made at Magdeburgh, towards the
commencement of the 13th century, and satisfac¬
torily explains the manner in which they received
this appellation, without supposing that they were
transported from ancient Kherson, in the Krimea.
■* James’s Journal of a Tour, &c. p. T7 J-. Note,
f Viile The Character of the Russians, &c. Appendix,
p. 58(5.
II it 4
•172 MILITARY COLONISATION.—NEW ROAD.
Notwithstanding the general unpopularity of the
system of military colonisation, which I have ex¬
plained at length in a pamphlet, government seems
determined on its prosecution. Three years ago,
near Novgorod, there was a village called Trubit-
cliina, which was destroyed, and Sviazi rose adjoin¬
ing to its site. Of this military colony I have
given the following description: “ About forty
houses are already constructed, all upon the same
plan. They are one story high, and each has an
elevated central ornament, like an additional story,
penetrated by a semi-circular window. They form
a line along the river Volchof, and have gardens
and out-houses behind them. Their long fa$ade,
in the centre of which is a church, with its belfry,
is towards the great road. As the houses are not
immediately contiguous, this line is very extensive,
and before it ranges of green plots are railed in ;
so that Sviazi really has a neat and imposing ap¬
pearance, and is by far the most remarkable mili¬
tary colony I have seen. This-establishment is to
be further augmented.” *
The Herculean undertaking of MacAdamising
the road between Moscow and Petersburg]! does
the Emperor Alexander much credit, and will be
a lasting monument of his reign. It was nearly
completed between the residence and Novgorod
* Vide An Account of the Organization, Administration, and
Present State of the Military Colonics in Russia.
DILIGENCES.-PETERSBURG II.
473
111 1823, and since that period great advancement
lias been made.
The Diligences which now run daily between
the capitals, prove an immense convenience.
Petersburgli has been well described by Storch,
Svinin, and Mr. James. The last author, with
justice, has called it “ the fairest city of the world.”
The magnificence of its streets, edifices, canals,
&c. with the majestic Neva flowing between them,
is not to be described. How much, therefore, is
it to be lamented that the situation of the capital
was so badly chosen. It has suffered enormously
by inundations at different periods, but the dread¬
ful catastrophe of 1S24 ought to make the Rus¬
sians think seriously of removing the seat of their
government, and they never could have a better
opportunity for so doing than at present. Who can
tell that such another, ora greater, inundation may
not take place next year, and every succeeding
year? In that dreadful uncertainty, is it prudent
to repair the capital, and to risk the lives and for¬
tunes of hundreds of thousands of human beings?
It would be extremely desirable that the Empe¬
ror Alexander would turn his attention to the im¬
provement of the civil administration of Russia,
instead of devoting so much time to the army and
to military establishments. To such an extent has
the taste for military rank and military life grown
upon the Russians, that it involves all other consi¬
derations, and it is not uncommon to hear these
474
CONCLUSION.
memorable words, “ Quand je vois un officier civil
i'l me donne mal au cccur resounding throughout
the halls of the Imperial winter palace. Indeed
the idea seems more than ever to be spread through¬
out the nation, that a man, whatever be his civil
rank by birth, by education, or by talents, is no¬
thing— nay, is in some degree contemptible —
unless he has been a soldier, or at least has acquired
military title. Yet the civilians form the real
strength of the empire, and are by far the most
useful class of society.
I shall now conclude these volumes, as I began
them, by wishing the rapid advancement of Rus¬
sia in civilisation, and her elevation in the scale of
nations.
47 5
APPENDIX, No. L
(7b Chap. IV. p. 157. Vol. I.)
ODESSA.
Since I finished the description of Odessa, I have learned
that great improvements have been lately made, and are
making, in that town. Two of the principal streets have
been MacAdamised ; a fine boulevard has been formed near
the theatre; a new prison is erecting; a number of houses
for the accommodation of the officers have been built at
the quarantine; and light-houses have been reared for the
advantage of mariners. But the Lycee-Richelieu is still
on the decline, its new director having disappointed the
expectations of the public. Count Vorontsof, the Governor-
general, is extremely active; he has been occupied in a
survey of all the provinces which are under his jurisdiction,
and in forming plans for future improvements. Count
Gurief, the commandant of Odessa, is also busy. He is
esteemed a man of considerable talents, but is not well
liked. He enters too much into the minutiae of affairs to
please the Odessians. I am informed that the population
of Odessa is really 40,000, but I do not give credit to the
statement. It is again reported, that it is seriously in agi¬
tation to carry a canal either from the Dneper or the
Dncster to Odessa.
In page 191. Volume I., I have implied that Odessa had
4?6
APPENDIX*
again become a free port. But that is not die case. After
the examination and report of Mr. Ribeaupierre, the bar¬
riers or boundaries of the town were greatly contracted,
and a new regulation with respect to importation was
adopted. All kinds of merchandise for the consumption
of Odessa pay only one quarter of the duty which is de¬
manded at any of the other ports of Russia ; i. e. instead of
paying 100 roubles for any given quantity of goods at
Petersburgh, Riga, &c., only twenty-five roubles are paid
at Odessa. But if the merchandise imported is afterwards
sent into the interior of Russia, then the other seventy-five
roubles become payable to the custom-house. In order to
prevent smuggling, the merchants have adopted a very
effective plan, provided there be no means devised to elude
it. Two of their number constantly attend the custom¬
house, and superintend all affairs. A complete statement
being made of the kind and quantity of goods annually
imported, an allowance, founded upon experience, is made
for the consumption of the town, and, of course, an account
of the remaining merchandise must be furnished. The sur¬
plus must either be in the custom-house, some private
store-house, or sent to the interior of Russia.
The revenue of the custom-house is wholly applied for
the improvement of Odessa. The first year after the new
regulation, I have been told that it amounted to the sum
of 100,000 roubles, and last year to about half of that sum.
It is quite amusing to hear how some enthusiasts talk of
extending the trade of Odessa, and of the extraordinary
prosperity which it is to attain before a century revolve.
In page 189. Volume I., it is mentioned that the sanguine
M. de Pradt anticipates that the population of Odessa in
1923, will amount to 200,000 souls, and I have had a
conversation with a gentleman of still warmer feelings, who
APPENDIX.
47?
thinks the worthy Abbe’s calculation by far too low.
Odessa is to become the grand debouche of the south of
the Russian empire for corn, hemp, tallow, &c., and the
chief port for importation of all foreign commodities.
Commerce to a great extent is to be also maintained be¬
tween this town and the Caucasus, Georgia, and Persia.
In fact Odessa is soon to be one of the first ports in the
world. How far these pleasant anticipations are well
founded, will appear from the following remarks.
Ever since I was at Odessa in 1822, its commerce has
been extremely dull, and at this very moment it is nearly
at a stand.
The Russian government may build and improve public
edifices, harbours, quarantines, streets, and do all it can
to encourage commerce, but it cannot command it. Is it
not contrary to reason to expect that so long as the Turks
command the Bosphorus, and of course the commerce of
all the ports of the Black Sea, that the trade of Odessa
can either be stable, or permanently extensive ? During
peace with Turkey it may be greatly extended, but with
a declaration of war it is nearly annihilated pro tempore .
A protracted state of uncertainty as to war or peace also
threatens the ruin of this town. Every individual fears to
give extensive orders for foreign merchandise, because he
might be ruined by the shutting of the Bosphorus. He
fears to build, to cultivate, or to acquire immovable pro¬
perty, because he knows not how soon Odessa may be
deserted. Resides, at present there is little demand for
corn, the most extensive article of the commerce of Odessa.
But let us suppose that the trade of Odessa was im¬
mensely increased, and that the town had acquired a con¬
siderable degree- of opulence, would not Turkey, aware of
the then importance of this port to Russia, take advantage
178
APPENDIX.
of the circumstance, and force conditions from her, by
holding up the shutting of the Bosphorus in terror cm ?
From all these considerations some would be inclined to
predict the fall of Odessa. It seems more probable, how¬
ever, that it may remain nearly in statu quo for some years.
Its increased or diminished prosperity must chiefly depend
upon the terms of concord or of disagreement between
Turkey and Russia.
Those who possess landed property in the governments
near Odessa, and who wisli to have a residence in this
town, go on building new houses, and their property may
be useful to their families, though its value should be
greatly diminished, or should the commerce of Odessa be
annihilated. Even under all the present unfavour¬
able circumstances, some merchants are foolhardy enough
to arrange establishments as if they had made up their
minds to end their days at Odessa, while they know not
that the morrow may ruin all their plans and speculations.
May this hint be useful to my countrymen !
It has been sagaciously remarked by M. Dupin, that
“ the government of Turkey is master of the Bosphorus,
of the passage between the Black Sea and the Mediter¬
ranean, and, consequently, of the greatest part of the com¬
merce of Odessa and the shores of the Black Sea. The
Turks govern this passage by arbitrary and changeable
laws, thus impeding or facilitating commerce at pleasure.
Thus the most important dcbauche of the commerce of the
Russian empire is at the mercy of a barbarous state,
which has no stability in the measures of its government.
This inconvenience will become the more serious in pro¬
portion as the Russian provinces surrounding the shores
of the Black Sea become more populous, more industrious,
and, consequently, richer in articles of exportation; and
APPENDIX. 479
also in proportion as they may have more extensive and
more varied wants of articles of importation.”
The plans of the Russian government are still proceed¬
ing, as we learn by the following letter from St, Peters-
burgh of the 16 th November last.
“ The present state of the port of Odessa renders it
necessary to add to its extent, and to make several expen¬
sive improvements in it. It will be necessary to alter the
Lazaretto and the dock-yards, to make canals, &c. In
order to accomplish these works, means have been con¬
sidered of to increase several branches of the revenue al¬
ready existing, and to create new ones. For example,
every vessel under a foreign flag is to pay the city fifty
kopecks per last; Russian vessels to pay only the half;
but all vessels, without exception, are to pay twenty-five
kopecks for the support of the light-houses.”
480
APPENDIX, No. II.
(To jk 438 — 444 . Vol. /.)
MINERAL SPRINGS OF THE CAUCASUS.
In the place referred to above, I have alluded to the work
of Dr. Haas respecting the mineral springs of the Cau¬
casus. This work bears the following title: Ma Visitc
mix Faux iVAlexandre en 1809 et 1810 , par Doctcur
Frederic-Joseph de Haas , Moscou , 1811 . It is now
scarce, the greatest part of the edition having been des¬
troyed at the burning of Moscow in 1812 , and the rest
having been distributed in presents to the author’s friends.
A copy of it is preserved in the library of Sir Joseph
Banks.
Dr. Haas’s work is divided into different sections, which
treat of the history, of the climate, of the vegetation, and
of the chemical analysis of the Waters of Alexander. Of
the other two sections, one is called Medical Reflections,
and the other points out what medical establishments are
necessary at these waters.
The waters of the Caucasus, in common language, are
divided into the Goriatchc Vodi , or Warm Waters, and the
Kislaya Vodi , or Acidulous Springs. By mistake, I have
stated in page 440 . that the name of Waters of Alexander
was still retained for the latter, whereas Dr. Haas has
bestowed this appellation upon the warm springs of Kon-
APPENDIX
481
stantinogorsk. The following table, translated from this
gentleman’s work, will interest the scientific reader, and
especially the traveller who reaches the springs.
Constituent Parts of Five of the Springs of
Alexander.
A
B
C
D
E
In ten Pounds of twelve
Ounces.
Great Warm
Spring.
( GoriatchiVodi .)
Mary’s Warm
Spring.
JB
l ^
-o .2
rt 4.
N
~ in
W
t/3
"o *
.2
Z c
a.
Constantine’s
Spring.
Muriate of soda.
91.24
94.59
76.38
67.10
.26.57
Sulphate of soda.
68.66
68.59
57.28
34.37
32.64
Carbonate of soda.
1.92
2.92
1.30
50.35
18.53
Carbonate of lime.
64.25
57.50
47.25
11.15
57.54
Carbonate of magnesia..
16.00
18.00
12.00
4.00
—
Alumina, with a little
magnesia, and a trace
of iron.
0.50
1.00
—
—
—
Oxide of iron, with a
little alumina and
magnesia.
—
—
0.50
0.25
10.52
Silica.
6.12
10.00
7.00
2.12
4.18
Fetid sulphurous resin *
Extractif.
0.70
0.65
0.35
0.29
—
p
p
p
0.60
?
* Resine sulphureuse fetide. Stinkendes Schwefelharz of Westrumb.
VOL.
482
APPENDIX, No. III.
(To VoL II. p. 118.)
POISONOUS BUGS OF MIANA.
Having been disappointed in receiving some expected in¬
formation with respect to the poisonous bugs of Miana, I
addressed a letter upon the subject to that distinguished
entomologist, Mr. MacLeay, who very obligingly sent me
the following answer.
©
“ Queen Square, Westminster.
« SlR, 2d December, 1824.
“ I regret that in reply to your letter requesting inform¬
ation respecting the c Miana Bug/ I should have so little
to communicate.
u It appears, however, from the * Bulletin des Sciences/
that Professor Fischer of Moscow, in the course of last
year, published a 6 Memoire* of fifteen quarto pages, em¬
bellished with plates, on the insect called the Malle/i de
Manch , specimens of which he had received from two
different persons, the Chevalier Mazarovitch, the Russian
ambassador in Persia, and an English gentleman of the
name of Caley. Professor Fischer’s ( Mdmoire’ is, how¬
ever, quite sufficient for the purpose of depriving this ce¬
lebrated insect of all its venom , and its history of all the
marvellous that had been attached to it; and I understand
that the Russian physicians who have lately investigated
APPENDIX.
483
the disease which attacks strangers at Miana, consider it
as a species of anthrax, such as not unfrequently attacks
strangers in warm and marshy climates. But however
this may be, Professor Fischer has ascertained the pre¬
tended bug to be a new species of Latreille’s Apterous
genus Argas , and he has described it therefore under the
name of Argas Per sic? is. This circumstance of itself proves
how inaccurately it had been observed by Kotzebue and
Porter, as it is no bug, and belongs even to the Arachnida ,
a totally different class of animals, which by the by, will
sufficiently account for Kotzebue’s having been disappointed
in his expectation of seeing them fly. The only other
known species of the genus, Argas rcjlcxus of Latreille,
is found in Italy, Spain, and the south of France, where it
is common in pigeons’ nests, and probably sucks the blood
of the young birds. The British genus nearest to Argas
is Ixodes or the Dogtick , which is so often troublesome in
woods during the summer. So that it cannot, as M. Fischer
says, be supposed for a moment by an entomologist, that
the Argas Persicus, or Malleh dc Maneh , has ever occa¬
sioned much more mischief than the loss of a little blood
after the manner of its congeners. Indeed, the circum¬
stance of an insect being poisonous only to strangers, and
not at all to the natives of Miana, was of itself sufficient
to throw doubt on the whole story; but now that Fischer
has ascertained the genus of the insect, we must clearly
seek some other cause for the deaths at Miana than the
bite of a tick .
“ I have the honour to be, Sir,
“ Your most obedient servant,
“ W. MacLeay.”
i i 2
484
APPENDIX, No. IV.
(To Vol . II. p. 460 .)
THE TEMPLE OF OUR SAVIOUR ON THE VOROBEEVYA
GORA, OR SPARROW-HILL, IN THE VICINITY OF
MOSCOW.
The solemnity which took place at the foundation of this
temple, was one of the most imposing Russia has ever
witnessed. The motives which led to its foundation, its
uncommonly fine situation on the Sparrow-hill, and its
immense intended magnitude, all give it a claim to par¬
ticular notice.
The Emperor Alexander, deeply affected with the signal
deliverance of Russia from the enemy, “ as an eternal re¬
membrance of the unexampled fervour, sincerity, and love
to the faith and to their country, with which in these
difficult times the Russians conducted themselves, and as
a mark of gratitude to divine providence, who saved Russia
from threatened ruin, resolved and made a vow to erect a
church iu the ancient capital of Russia, (or as it is called,
Mat Moskva , i. e. Mother Moskva, or Mat gradovc Ros¬
si i ski ch, i. e. Mother of the towns of Russia,) in the name
of the Saviour Jesus Christ.” The foundation of this
temple was laid on the 12th October* on the Sparrow-hill,
* The reason for choosing the 12th of October is explained thus by
a Russian author, to whom I am indebted for a number of the following
particulars. “ On the 12th October,” says he, “ the church celebrates
APPENDIX.
485
which lies about five versts south-west of the Kremle. In
the morning, divine service was performed in the church
dedicated to the Tichvinskaya Mother of God, situated on
the Lujnikii, not far from the Novo-Devitchei nunnery, in
the presence of the clergy, those attached to the court,
the military chiefs, and many of the most distinguished
personages of Moscow 7 .
The streets and the road from the Kremle to the river
Moskva at the foot of the Sparrow-hill, were lined with
troops,— infantry, cavalry, and artillery,— forming a grand
exhibition of 50,000 men, who awaited the arrival of the
Emperor and the Imperial family, to receive them with
military honours.
The Emperor, the Grand Duke Nikolai Pavloviteh, and
Prince William of Prussia, on horseback, with their res¬
pective suites, led the van of the cortege. The Empress
and the Dow r ager Empress followed in state carriages with
eight horses. Leaving the Kremle, the cavalcade soon
arrived at the church of the Tichvinskaya Mother of God,
where they wxre met by the Archbishop Avgnstin, the me¬
tropolitan of Georgia, John, and the Archbishop of Georgia,
Paphnutii, by the archimandrites of the principal convents
of Moscow, by about thirty protoreis, 300 priests, and 200
deacons, with the life-giving cross, as well as by the most
distinguished personages at court, generals, ministers, &c.,
where we shall leave them to celebrate the mass.
About the middle of the acclivitous side of the Sparrow-
hill, where it was intended to lay the foundation of the
church, w r as erected a very elevated extensive wooden
the Jerusalem Mother of God, whose image, brought from Greece, is
in the Usjicnskvi Soborc , or Cathedral of the Assumption. It was
painted ill the 50 th year after the ascension of Christ; by Us miracles.
many Grecian towns were saved from the enemies.”
486
APPENDIX.
painted terrace, surrounded by a balustrade, and having
an ambon or platform of the shape of a parallelogram with
steps on eacli side, in the centre. Two temporary wooden
bridges were thrown across the Moskva, from the south
side of which to the foot of a wide stair which conducted
to the terrace, a distance of about 700 feet, was made a
wooden road with a rail on each side. From the terrace
another stair conducted to the top of the hill. On the
ambon was placed a large cubic hard sandstone, from the
Tatarskaya hill, with an excavation in it. Silver vessels,
for the holy water to be used at the consecration of the
foundation of the temple, and places for the miraculous
images were prepared. The terrace, the ambon , and the
balustrade, were all covered with red cloth. As the weather
was cold, a small pavilion was erected on the south side of
the terrace, with an open fire, elegantly furnished, and
covered by a Wilton carpet, as was also the place on which
their Majesties and Highnesses stood during the ceremony.
At the conclusion of the service in the church of the
Tichvinskaya Mother of God, a holy procession took place
to the terrace, and the infantry and cavalry in the plain
made different evolutions.
The supporters of the holy banners proceeded first, and
were followed by the bearers of the miraculous images of
the Vladimirskaya and the Iverskaya Virgin Mary, the
images of the Moscow saints, Peter, John, Philip, and
Alexei, and of the holy crosses. Behind the images pro¬
ceeded two bands of choristers in their different dresses,
who chaunted solemn airs. The clergy, amounting to
above 500, habited in their various and richly decorated
dresses, followed according to their rank. Then appeared
his Majesty Alexander, with his spouse and mother, the
Grand Duke, and Prince William of Prussia, with their
APPENDIX.
487
suites, &c., all the males with their heads uncovered. They
were followed by a retinue of court ladies and gentlemen,
military chiefs, ministers, &c.
Amidst the peals of innumerable bells, the sound of
martial music, and in view of 50,000 troops, and hundreds
of thousands of spectators, the procession passed the
Moskva by one of the bridges mentioned. * The holy
banners were deposited at the top of the stair leading to
the terrace by the higher clergy, and the lower clergy,
having crossed the river, lined the road on both sides from
hence to the terrace. The anthem, Praise to God , was
chaunted before the holy images* now placed near the amhon .
After consecration of the water by the Archbishop Avgustin,
the place destined to receive the first stone of the temple
was asperged. Mr. Whitberg, who had designed its plan,
then presented to his Imperial Majesty a gilt copper
plate in form of a cross, on which was the following
inscription. 66 In the year 1817, the month of October,
on the 12th day, by order of the most pious, most sove¬
reign great Gosudar, the Emperor Alexander Paviovitch;
in the time of his spouse the most pious Gosudarina, the
Empress Elizaveta Alexeevna; in the time of his mother,
the most pious Gosudarina, the Empress Maria Pheodo-
rovna; in the time of the orthodox Gosudar Tsesarevitch
and Great Duke Konstantine Paviovitch, and his spouse
the orthodox Gosudarina and Great Duchess Anna Phc-
odorovna; in the time of the orthodox Gosudar and Great
* It is said that 400,000 souls were present; I don’t know how they
managed to count them. The crowd was in fact enormous, and in¬
numerable houses, roofs, windows, balconies, walls, benches erected on
purpose, streets, lanes, trees, indeed every place was crowded ; all Mos¬
cow and the vicinity were in motion, and the Sparrow-hill seemed a
living mountain.
i i 4
488
APPENDIX*
Duke Nikolai Pavlovitch, and his spouse, the orthodox
Gosudarina, and Great Duchess Alexandra Pheodorovna;
in the time of the orthodox Gosudar and Great Duke
Michail Pavlovitch; in the time of the orthodox Gosudarina
and Great Duchess Maria Pavlovna, and her spouse; in
the time of the orthodox Gosudarina, Queen of Wurtem-
burg, Yekaterina Pavlovna and her spouse; in the time
of the orthodox Gosudarina, the Great Duchess Anna
Pavlovna and her spouse; this temple was founded to
our Lord the Saviour Jesus Christ, in glory of his most
holy name, and in memory of the unspeakable mercies
which he was pleased to show us by the salvation of our
beloved country in the year 1812 , and who glorified among
us his mighty power by putting an end to war.
“ At the foundation of this temple were present the most
pious, most sovereign great Gosudar, the Emperor Alex¬
ander Pavlovitch; his spouse the most pious Gosudarina
the Empress Elizaveta Alexeevna; his mother the most
pious Gosudarina the Empress Maria Pheodorovna; the
orthodox Gosudar and Great Duke Nikolai Pavlovitch ;
his spouse the orthodox Gosudarina and Great Duchess
Alexandra Pheodorovna; and his Royal Highness Prince
William of Prussia. Avgustin, acting metropolitan of
Moscow and archbishop of Dmitrof, performed the con¬
secration.
cc The plan and facade of the temple were designed by
the academician, Charles Whitberg, to whom is confided
the construction of the edifice.
“ O Lord our Saviour, regard from thy holy throne
this place, receive it as a habitation for thyself, and bless
the actions of our hands !”
The Emperor having put the table into its destined
place in the square stone above mentioned. Mr. Whitberg
presented to him a marble stone, a gilded silver hammer,
and a trowel upon one silver plate, and on another plate
some lime. All was now profound silence and attention.
His Majesty advanced in a tranquil graceful solemn man¬
lier, deposited the marble stone in an excavation on the
east side of the large cubic stone, and added a little mortar
to fasten it in its place.
Mr. Whitberg having presented a marble stone, a silver
hammer and trowel, and slacked lime to their Majesties,
the Empress and the Dowager-Empress, the one after the
other advanced slowly and solemnly, and likewise deposited
these slabs in the excavation of the cubic stone. Another
stone was placed by Prince William of Prussia. The
Grand Duke Nikolai Pavlovitch deposited two stones, one
for himself, and one for his spouse the Grand Duchess,
who being unwell, was not on the terrace. Lastly, another
stone was placed in the excavation by the Archbishop Av-
gustin.
On these stones were the following inscriptions: on the
first, Alexander I. Emperor of all Russia; on the se¬
cond, The Empress Elizaveta Alexeevna; on the third,
The Empress Maria Pheodorovna; on the fourth, The
Prince of Prussia, William; on the fifth, The Grand
Duke Nikolai Pavlovitch ; on the sixth, The Grand
Duchess Alexandra Pheodorovna; on the seventh, his
Eminence, Avgustin, acting metropolitan of Moscow.
Their Majesties having withdrawn to their stations,
Avmistin ascended the arnbon and delivered the following
oration, which rnay be reckoned another fair specimen of
Russian eloquence.
“ Where are we ? What do we see ? What do we ?
u Where are we? On the place on which, in the year
1812 , that ancient capital with horror beheld the flambeau
490
APPENDIX.
kindled by the hand of the enemy for her extermination.
Beheld, and inclining her grey front, prayed God that she
might be the sacrifice of her country.
“ What do we see ? We see that same capital risen
from ashes and ruins, clad in new beauty and magnificence,
while elevating to the clouds her golden summits, boiling *
with wealth and riches, and rejoicing at the fame of Russia,
and the prosperity of all Europe.
“ What do we? Do we wish to erect pyramids in ho¬
nour of our compatriots, who by immoveable fidelity to
the Tsar, by burning love to their country, by their praise¬
worthy combats on the field of battle, have joined their
names to those worthy of our eternal benediction ? O no!
What is man without God ? God, the Lord of the wise ;
God, having ordained his undertakings, gives reason and
wisdom. The Lord of Sabaoth girds the impotent with
strength, and renders futile the bow of the strong. Then,
what do we ? In the sight of heaven and earth,— confessing
the unspeakable mercy and benevolence which the Supreme
Lord of the world has been pleased to extend over us —
attributing to him alone all the success, all the glory of the
late wars,— we lay the foundation of a temple, consecrated
to our Lord God and Saviour Jesus Christ.
66 O God, with our eyes we have seen who accomplished
these things in our days; therefore not by our humble
sword elevated over the enemy : our own power did not
save us ! Thou alone saved us from those who despite-
fully fell upon us, and put them to confusion. O let us
praise God all the dap long, and sing of his name through
eternity!
64 Thou, the capital, particularly bearest upon thyself the
* Boiling. Eastern hyperbole.
stamp of the wonders of God ; among thy ruins was broken
the terrible power of the destroyer : the flames exterminat¬
ing thee, also destroyed his strength : it inflamed the hearts
of the Russians, and of other nations, for the return of
peace and tranquillity. Therefore let us exalt the Lord
our God, and standing on the bank of this, his holy hill,
worship Him in spirit and in truth.
“ Brave warriors, in all the combats completed by you,
ye saw, or rather felt, the power of God raised over you
and aiding you. Give therefore the glory to God, and in
praise exclaim, Not we, not we accomplished this. The
Lord Jehovah, our protector, the God of Jacob, remove
wars to the ends of the earth. Thy works are all great
and glorious.
o
“ O God our Saviour, may thine eyes be open day and
night on this place, where Thine Anointed lays the found¬
ation of a temple, in glory of thy most holy name, and
in memory of thy indescribable benevolence, demonstrated
toward us! Receive from him this offering ol thankfulness,
with pure faith, with burning love, and in deep humility,
presented to Thee: receive, bless, and complete his holy
undertaking, grant thy mercy to him, and to all his illus¬
trious family.”
During the chaunting of “ We praise thee O God,”
according to a signal made by means of a rocket, the ar¬
tillery on the plain below fired three rounds, all the bells
of Moscow began their rapid and merry peals, which con¬
tinued till the evening, and the multitude testified their
joy by exclamations and ourras.
A holy procession now took place back to the church
of the Tichvinskaya Mother of God. The whole hill and
plain seemed in motion the moment their Majesties quitted
the terrace, and the scene was amusing. Men, women,
4Q2
APPENDIX.
and children of all ranks, rushed like a torrent from the
mountain brow; many were overset, and many borne in
the air amidst the crowd, scarcely knew where they were
till landed upon the terrace, of which number I happened
to be one. During the ceremony, my situation being on
the hill above the terrace, I was involved in a moment in
the vortex which it was impossible to resist, and was hur¬
ried along, and only felt myself at liberty after a severe
fall upon the arnboiu It was impossible for the police to
keep order; indeed, most of the watchmen were over¬
thrown. Every one pressed forward to see the foundation
of the temple, and the plate and the marble slabs deposited
in the cavity of the cubic stone, which was opened on
purpose to gratify general curiosity. Tens of thousands
hurrying on to follow the procession, were met by innu¬
merable crowds pressing up the hill to see the foundation.
Many scorning the assistance of the bridges, or impatient
of delay, dashed into the river, and crossed it by wading
or swimming. The ourras of the crowd, the thunder of
the cannon, the noise of the bells, and the mellow sound
of music, rent the air together, or by turns, and was re¬
echoed by the neighbouring hills.
Their Imperial Majesties, during their return to the
Kremle, were again received by the troops with military
honours, soon after which they dispersed to their various
quarters, and this grand ceremony concluded about three
o’clock, though nothing was heard but mirth and joy all
the day long.
After the foundation of the temple was laid, nothing of
consequence toward the erection was done for three years.
The matter was then taken seriously into consideration,
and by an ukaz of his Imperial Majesty of the 7th July,
APPENDIX.
493
1820, which appeared in the following November, a com¬
mission was named at Moscow for the purpose of carrying
the plans of the government into execution. This com¬
mission was composed of four members; two for the di¬
rection ex officio and jiro tempore , the metropolitan of
Moscow 7 , Seraphim, and the Military-Governor, Prince
Galitsin ; and two perpetual, one of whom w r as Mr. Whit-
berg, the architect, who was also charged with the econo¬
mical department, and another whom the Emperor was to
nominate.
This commission receives 769,000 roubles annually for
the salaries of those concerned with the building, and other
expenses; and this sum is to be yielded by a fund of
2,000,000 roubles deposited on purpose. Every individual
who shall fulfil his duties during the erection of the edifice
is to have his salary continued for life.
The commission is placed under the immediate orders
of the Emperor, and all affairs which relate to it are sub¬
mitted to him through the Minister of Ecclesiastical Af¬
fairs and of Public Instruction.
The commission did but little that was visible till the
year 1823. A quantity of stones, and of wood, &c. alone,
w T ere laid down, and people began to suppose that the
plan had been abandoned of rearing the temple on the
Sparrow-hill.
The Sparrow-hill, which is about five versts distant
from the Kremle, and is of considerable height, forms
nearly a semi-oval curvature, and the Moskva river flows
at a short distance from its base. This curvature was
beautifully clothed with shrubbery and trees, and had a fine
romantic appearance, especially from the city. But its
effect is nearly destroyed, the brow of the hill having been
491
APPENDIX.
cleared for the foundation of this edifice. This measure
gave great offence to some who were of opinion that nature
was not to be destroyed , but to be beautified by art. The
distance of the temple from Moscow was also pointed out
as a formidable objection to the site fixed upon, and its
enemies raised a clamour that the foundation on the side
of the hill would be incapable of supporting its weight;
and, indeed, they predicted that it would soon be ruined
by numerous springs.
The public had made false conclusions, for the com¬
mission had been actively employed in making preparations
upon an immense scale, so as to proceed with their plan.
Different methods of carrying the Emperor’s views into
execution had been proposed, but at length that which 1
am about to mention was preferred.
In the summer of 1823, the crown had already purchased
22,000 peasants, with the estates to which they were at¬
tached, all of which are at no great distance from Moscow.
It was intended to purchase other 2000 to make a total of
24,000. Of this number one fourth, or 6000, are to be
employed every summer for the erection of the edifice,
and of course at no expense to the crown. The 18,000
employed at home in tilling the land are to support those
who are at work in Moscow, in lieu of paying an annual
obroik for every individual of the 24,000. *
A million of roubles was to be drawn every six weeks,
* It was reported that, through the advice of Prince Galitsin, his
Majesty, Alexander, had changed the plan, and that a recruitment was
to take place throughout the whole of the Russian empire of four
recruits from every hundred males capable of bearing arms, and that
one of each of these fours was destined for the erection of the Temple
of Our Saviour. But there seems no truth in this statement,
APPENDIX.
495
from the Lombard at Moscow, for the use of the com¬
mission charged with the erection of the temple, and
3000 workmen were soon employed in preparing its found¬
ation.
Mr. Whitberg is not backward in showing the plan of
the Temple of Our Saviour, and very frequently small
parties meet on purpose at his house. The plan is very
noble, but it does not possess the grandeur of that of St.
Peter’s at Route, or of St. Paul’s at London. Indeed, it
appears to me, that when completed, it will owe its mag¬
nificence more to its immense size than to elegance of ar¬
chitecture. I am not sure that the termination of such a
structure by one large and four small domes, is the best
calculated to produce architectural beauty or effect; and,
very likely, the artist was regulated in some of his arrange¬
ments by ecclesiastical laws and traditions; for all the
component parts of this structure have some mystical al¬
lusion, as to the two natures of Christ, the four evangelists,
the twelve apostles, &c.
The chief measurements of this immense intended temple
are the following. The height of the whole edifice, reck¬
oning from the foot of the hill to the cross, about 770 feet.
The stair with a breadth of more than 350 feet, will com¬
mence at the distance of 490 feet from the bank of the
Moskva river, and will be continued through five vast
projections, which, serving as a foundation for the edifice,
will lead to the middle of the hill, where already is laid
the foundation of the lower church, which is to be conse¬
crated to the Nativity of Christ. It will be elevated to¬
ward the top of the hill 105 feet, where the stair will
divide to both sides. There w T ill begin the church of the
Transfiguration of Christ, with a handsome open space or
490
APPENDIX.
exit before it, of the breadth of thirty-five feet, and the
length on each side of 560 feet. Over this church, around
a magnificent central cupola, having a diameter of 175
feet, will be raised a third, or superior, church of the Re¬
surrection of Christ.
The form of the lower church will represent a paral¬
lelogram, that of the middle church a square and a regular
cross, and of the superior church a circle. This edifice
will have five domes. * In the four smallest domes will be
suspended forty-eight bells, composing four musical sym¬
phonies, which will be particularly used at the festival of
the Resurrection of Christ. The height of this part of
the temple, reckoning from the summit of the hill to the
cross, will amount to 560 feet. On both sides of the
lowest church, being itself a remembrance of the sacrifice
of the year 1812, and serving as an appendage to the
monument of this epoch, will stretch a colonnade to the
extent of 2100 feet, at the ends of which will be placed
two monuments, in height 350 feet: the one composed of
pieces of ordnance taken from the enemy between Mos¬
cow and the frontiers of Russia; and the other of pieces
of ordnance taken between the same frontiers and Paris,
all now lying in the Kremle.
By a reference to the measurements of St. Paul’s Ca¬
thedral, London, it will be remarked that the Temple of
Our Saviour is intended to be higher, by 156 feet, reck¬
oning only from the level of the summit of the hill, or the
church of the Resurrection; and from the base of the hill,
by 336 feet. The diameter of the cupola will exceed that
* I have treated at some length of the origin of Bulbous Domes in
the History of Moscow, p. 601 .
APPENDIX. 497
that of St. Paul’s by thirty feet, and of course its circum¬
ference by ninety feet.
Regarded from the south, what an enormous building !
What a dome ! From the north, what a mass of stairs,
projections, and churches, elevated no less than 770 feet,
with a colonnade stretching 2100 feet, and two towers
formed of cannon 350 feet in height, now presents itself
to the imagination ! The time allowed for its construction
is twenty or thirty years; but many think it will never be
finished.
VOL. II.
K. k
498
APPENDIX, No. V.
HISTORY OF THE ORLOF FAMILY.
In “ The Character of the Russians, &c.” I have given
some account of the palaces of Countess Orlof-Tches-
menska # , and of her style of living, because she is one of
the most distinguished of the nobles, and, probably, the
most distinguished female in Russia. In the time of
Catherine the Second, her family acquired an enormous
influence at court, which enabled some of its members to
play a great part on the theatre of life. On this account, I
have taken considerable pains to trace its history, so as to
correct the mistakes of some preceding writers.
It has been reported by some, that the five brothers of
the Orlofs were descended from the most obscure ancestry;
but it appears that their father, Grigorii Ivanovitch Orlof,
was a major-general, and also Governor of Novgorod. It
is said that he was present in all the engagements during
the Swedish and Turkish wars, in the time of Peter the
Great, and that on account of his bravery and the wounds
he received, the Emperor presented to him his portrait sus¬
pended by a gold chain. It is true that the Orlofs had
served as subalterns in the army. But authors ought to
have known, that the constitution of the Russian army
requires, that all the princes and counts of the realm should
serve, either as privates or subalterns, and that they must rise
Vide p. 41 1—416*..
APPENDIX.
49!)
to military rank by length of time and by merit. Civil rank
may assist, though it cannot confer, military promotion.
I have been informed that Grigorii, Alexei, and Phcodor
were educated in the land-cadet corps at St. Petersburg!),
and afterwards made their progress to the higher ranks,
ascending by the usual routine, till distinguished by the
regards of Catherine II.
The ancestors of the Orlofs were emigrants from Prus¬
sia. The time of their arrival I have not been able to
ascertain exactly; but, according to all accounts, they have
been established for a long time in Russia. One of these
ancestors, named after a relation, Vassilii Orla, gave this
name the Russian termination in of and introduced Orlof.
The whole of the Orlof brothers were intimately con¬
nected with the court of Catherine II., and, in the year
1762, received the rank of Count, besides other distinc¬
tions. It is stated the Empress considered them all dis¬
tinguished patriots, and said it was rare to find such a
family.
No. 1 . “ Count Ivan Grigorievitch Orlof, the eldest of
five brothers, born 8th September 1733, died 18th No¬
vember 1791, aged 58 years, to the heart-break of his friends
and to the sorrow of all honourable people” *
At the ascent of Catherine II. to the throne, he was
made captain of the Prebbrajcnskoi regiment of guards,
and although distinguished ranks and other honours were
offered to him by that monarch, he refused them all with
gratitude: he received nothing; and remained, during his
whole life, attached to the service of his country, as captain.
He passed much of his time in Italy, and seems to have
* This is a translation of an inscription in the family mausoleum,
spoken of hereafter. The words in italics are a literal translation, and
mean — to the affliction of his friends and to general regret.
K k 2
500
APPENDIX.
valued liberty from restraint, and a tranquil life, above
all mortal distinction, honour, or glory. He married Miss
Elisazveta Pheodorovna Rtistchef. He had no children;
and his effects, except a seventh part to his wife, the coun¬
tess, fell to his brothers.
No. 2. “ Prince Grigorii Grigorievitch Orlof was, by
seniority, the second son: he was bom 6th October 1734,
and died the 13th April 1783, at the age of 48 years.
He was in the service thirty-four years : he was General-
Chief-Master of the Ordnance, General-Director of the
Fortifications, General-Adjutant of her Imperial Majesty,
Commander of the corps of Chevalier-Guards, Senator,
Chamberlain, Lieutenant-Colonel of the cavalry regiment
of Life Guards, President of the Chancery of Foreign
Tutelage, Knight of the Russian orders of St. Andrew,
St. Alexander Nevski, St.Vladimir Great Cross, First Rank,
and of St. Ann.” *
Count Gregory Orlof was particularly loaded with the
favours of Catherine II. She obtained for him the title of
Prince, and, as is well known, besides the other honours
conferred upon him, gave him a superb lodging in the
palace, when he became her favourite . She afterwards
paid 40,000 roubles for the house of Stegelman the banker,
which he ordered to be demolished, and rebuilt agreeably
to his own taste. She presented to him the estates of
Robsha and Gatchina, which had belonged to Peter III.,
and there he raised fine edifices. He bought estates in
Livonia and Esthonia: he received in a present the fine
yacht of Peter III., and placed sums in all the best banks
of Europe, f The marble palace at St. Petersburgh was
also built for him.
* Inscription in Mausoleum.
f History of the Life of Count A. G. Orlof-Tfbesmenskii.
APPENDIX.
501
His career of favour was long and brilliant, and ac¬
cording to Storch, he seemed to share the throne on which
he had placed Catherine II. *
At his death, llobsha, Gatchina, and the marble palace
returned to the crown. At Tsarsko-Selo, there is erected
a triumphal arch, in the summer gardens, at the entrance
from the Gatchina road, to Prince Orlof, on account of the
patriotic ardour and temerity with which he faced and
quelled the plague and rebellion at Moscow, executed after
the design of the Italian architect Rinaldi. It consists
of a number of columns resembling gates, and supporting
a gallery. On it is inscribed, cc Moscow delivered from
misery by Orlof ” The Empress had also a medal struck,
about four inches in diameter, in honour of his success in
quelling the rebellion, and expelling the plague from Mos¬
cow. On one side is his portrait, and around it the fol¬
lowing inscription : “ Count G rigor ii Grigorievitch Orlof
Roman Prince.\ On the other side, he is represented in
the character of Curtius, leaping into the gulf, with this
inscription : “ Russia has such sons.”
According to the portraits of Prince Orlof, which I have
seen, in his early days, he was a fine young man , whose
physiognomy bespoke openness, mildness, and vivacity,
rather than deepness, penetration, and vigour. In his riper
years, frankness, candour, penetration, vigour, gentleness,
and friendship are said to have been his characteristics, by
his friends: his enemies have drawn a very different picture.
His stature and appearance were gigantic.
Prince Orlof espoused Miss Yekaterina Nikolaevna
Zenovyeva, whom he lost at Lausanne, during his travels
* Storch’s Picture of Petersburg!], p. 37.
t He was made Prince by Austria, and therefore called Roman
Prince.
K K 3
502
APPENDIX.
in Switzerland. lie had no children, and he died at
Moscow in the month of April 1783; and, according to
some, in a state of mental agony, on account of the deeds
of his life. *
No. 3. “ Count Alexei Grigorievitch Orlof-Tches-
menskii, General-Adjutant-in-chief, Lieutenant-Colonel of
the Preobrajenskoi regiment of Life Guards, Lieutenant
of the corps of Chevalier-Guards, Knight of the orders of
St.-Andrew, St. Alexander Nevskii, St. George, First Class;
and of St. Vladimir, First Rank: he was Commander-in-
Chief of the Russian fleet in the Mediterranean Sea, he
gained a decisive victory over the Turkish fleet, 24th of
June 1771, and on the 26th of the same month he burned
the Turkish fleet at Tchesme, whence he received the ap¬
pellation Tchesmenskii. On the 13th of September 1773,
he received into his coat of arms the Imperial flag; and
then, in 1806, he was constituted Commander-in-Chief of
the fifth division of Militia. By seniority, he was the
third of five brothers; he was born 24th September 1735;
he died the 24th December 1807, in the seventy-third year
from his birth.” f
“ In his early years Alexei Orlof excited universal aston¬
ishment, on account of his extraordinary firmness and
strength. None of his play-fellows of the same age could
overcome or equal him, in wrestling or boxing. These
juvenile pleasures had a great influence upon the whole
life of Orlof. He was accustomed to be conqueror from
his earliest years, and he preserved this custom to the
winter of his days. He was a lover of his country, an
unshaken adherent to religion, a distinguished benefactor,
* Vide Tooke’s Works,
t Inscription in the mausoleum of the family.
4PPEND1X.
503
compassionate to orphans, indulgent to the unfortunate;
his protection was open to all who sought it. Ilis education
is said to have been sufficiently extensive.
“ At the age of manhood, Orlof was esteemed a very
handsome man. The calm gravity of his face; his Gre¬
cian eyes; his significant smile; his agreeable and laconic
speech, and rays of grandeur blazing amidst his predomi¬
nant beauty and colossal appearance, rendered him the
astonishment of all in the last century.” *
Speaking of Prince Gregory Orlof, says Storch, “ Though
young and athletic, his brother Alexius, of Herculean force,
and in stature like Goliath, was associated with him in his
particular attachment to Catherine, at that time in the full
vigour of youth.” f His stature was 6 feet 8^ inches. He
was never very corpulent, but well-proportioned to his
height, and remarkably firm and handsome.
As it is not my design to give a detailed history of Count
A. G. Orlof-Tchesmenskii’s life, I can only notice the prin¬
cipal events : — to those of minor importance, allusions are
occasionally made.
After the victory of Tchesme, and the return of the
Count to St. Petersburgh, a grand fete was celebrated by
the College of Admiralty, on the 24th June 1771. The
members of the Synod, the Senate, of the Government
Colleges, military and foreign, &c. were present. They
went to the cathedral church of the Manifestation of Our
Lord : thirty-one guns were fired after the anthem, JVepraise
thee O Lord . They then adjourned, by previous invitation,
to the house of the Vice-President, Count Ivan Grigorie-
vitch Tchernishef. Each was presented with a medal, on
one side of which is the portrait of Count Alexei Orlof-
' Life of Count Orlof-Tchesmenskii. + Picture of Pcter&burgli.
K K \
504
APPENDIX.
Tchesmenskii, and around it this inscription—“Count
Alexei Grigorievitch Orlof, conqueror and exterminator of
the Turkish fleet.” On the other side are allusions to the
engagement with the Turkish fleet on the 24th, and its
destruction on the 26th June, as is shown by these inscrip¬
tions: “It was the happiness and the joy of Russia,”
“Tchesme, June 24th and 26th, in the year 1770.” “ In
gratitude to the conqueror, from the College of Admiralty.”
At Tsarsko-Selo, an obelisk commemorates the name
of Count Alexei Orlof-Tchesmenskii, and the victory of
Tchesme. It is a fine column, and rests on a great pedestal
of Uralian granite, which weighed, when removed from
St. Petersburgh hence, in the year 1777, 1950 poods. Seven
versts from this capital, on the Tsarsko-Selo road, there
is a church dedicated to John the Baptist, the fete of which
is the 24th day of June, on which day the Turkish fleet
was destroyed. Near this church is*an Imperial palace,
named Tchesmenskii Zamok , in honour of the conqueror,
and the neighbouring village is known by the name of
Tchesme. Both the church and palace are built in the
Gothic style.
“ Count Orlof-Tchesmenskii left the splendid court, and
went to Moscow: his brother soon followed him, and their
houses formed a complete new street in the city, exhibiting
in itself a rare conjunction of the beauties of nature, with
the charming inventions of taste, riches, and genius.” *
Leading a happy life in the middle of his relations and
friends, he married the daughter of General Lapuchin,
who was in the twentieth year of her age, and he in his
forty-eighth, in the year 1784 or 1785. In 1785, the
* Vide Description of them in Detailed History of Moscow, p, 411—
116 .
APPENDIX.
50 5
Empress Catherine being in Moscow, paid him a visit at
his house, soon after the birth of the present Countess
Orlof-Tchesmenska. His spouse also bore him a son in
the following year, and died about twelve hours afterwards,
The little Count lived till about two years of age, re¬
ceived a captain’s rank from the Empress, and frequently
appeared in uniform. The Count also had a son long
before his marriage, to whom he gave the name of Tches -
menskii , and a handsome fortune. He had the rank of
general, and died in Moscow at the commencement of the
year 1820.
“ While the Count’s time was occupied between his wife
and daughter, he did not forget his former amusements
and pleasures. Every winter he instituted horse-races, on
a race-course before his house, which every week, but espe¬
cially on Sunday, engaged not only the inhabitants of
Moscow, but also the nobility from all quarters of Russia.
And every summer, Moscow was also indebted to him for
another race-course, and races before his house, besides a
Sunday’s promenade in his English garden.”
66 In one word,” says a flattering biographer,— <c In one
word, Count Alexei Orlof was not only the most esteemed
and beloved of the Russian Boyars, but his spirit made
him the centre of coalition of the Russian nobility, the
soul of general enjoyment, manners, and customs, the hope
of the unfortunate, the purse of the poor, the staff' of the
lame, the eyes of the blind, the repose of the wounded
warrior, the physician of the sick citizen.
“ Count Alexei Orlof-Tehesmenskii’s house was always
the temple of patriotism, the open gallery of innocent
pleasures, the haven of merit and talents, the asylum of
misfortune and misery, l lis benevolence was extended to
all who had recourse to him. hie reckoned it his first
50C
APPENDIX.
pleasure to anticipate the petitions of those who sought his
protection, and he performed his acts of goodness in the
most secret manner.— His soul, as may be said, was
Russian. He loved all native customs, manners, and plea¬
sures. Boxers, wrestlers, strong men, singers, dancers,
balancers, and horse-racers : in a word, all that indicated
the virility, the firmness, the strength, the art, and the
merit of the Russians was assembled in his house.”
Being endowed with extraordinary strength, Count
Orlof frequently exhibited the wonders of his prowess in
the circles of his friends. Without believing the Her¬
culean task that he could arrest a carriage and six in its
progress, the many proofs he gave of his corporeal powers
in bending and breaking rods of iron, in crushing tumblers
and bottles to atoms, by his grasp, &c. proved them to be
unusual. I cannot avoid relating the following anecdote,
which is current in Russia. The celebrated Mr. Lukin,
one day called at the Count’s house, who was absent. The
servant desired he would leave his name. Mr. Lukin im¬
mediately pulled down the iron rod which rung the bell,
and which was of the size of an ordinary finger, and
twisting it into a bundle of knots, desired the servant to
present that billet to his master, who would know who had
been calling. The Count soon afterwards returned the
visit, and not finding Mr. Lukin at home, performed the
same operation, and left his iron twisted billet to give notice
of his call.
During the whole of the t'eign of Catherine II. she
continued her attentions and favours to Count Orlof-
Tchesmenskii, whom she calls in a letter to Voltaire, “ a
hero berm for great events.” According to his panegyrists,
the Count was also distinguished during the reign of the
Emperor Paul, which is true: and the reader of history
APPENDIX.
507
will recollect, that sovereign “ extended his benevolence” to
Count A. Orlof-Tchesmenskii by banishment. After the
Count’s exile in Germany, or rather during the reign of
Alexander I. he was constantly in favour, and received
additional honours. In 180 G he was made commander of
the fifth division of the militia, for the use of which he
sacrificed a part of his fortune; and his daughter, the
present Countess Orlof-Tchesmenska, bestowed on it a
quantity of arms. Afterwards the Count received a letter
of thanks for the careful discharge of his duties, and his
unwearied exertions as chief of the militia, got the large
cross of the First Class of the Order of St. Vladimir, and
also another letter of thanks on account of the Countess’s
present.
The history of the life of Count Alexei Orlof-Tches¬
menskii, has been written in Russ by different authors,
from whom I have extracted much of the foregoing ac¬
count. The general strain of these works is not real
biography, but panegyric. They contain many facts, how¬
ever; but they do not tell all the truth. They give us only
a front view of the picture, with a dazzling light. Some
of the above quotations, I believe, are pretty just, and give
an idea of the Count’s mode of life. Certainly no noble¬
man kept a more hospitable or plentiful board than Count
Orlof-Tchesmenskii, at all times open to his friends; and
none gave more entertainments to the public. Very fre¬
quently in summer, he had festivals in his gardens, to
which a decent dress and respectable appearance were a
sufficient passport. Nobles, merchants, and citizens at¬
tended. Tea, coffee, fruits, wines, spirits, &c. were sup¬
plied to the visitors, by numerous lacqueys in attendance.
The panegyrists have not flattered his imposing appear¬
ance. His colossal size and handsome form, conjoined
APPENDIX.
50S
with manly beauty to his other exterior qualities, were
highly advantageous to him, and fit to captivate the mul¬
titude. Indeed from the portraits I have seen of him
in his younger days, it was little to be wondered at, that
the youthful and amorous Catherine’s heart should have
felt a tender attachment to such a chevalier of her bril¬
liant court. In his more advanced years, his magnificent
style of living, and his frequent public entertainments,
gave him an importance in vulgar eyes, and combined to
his high rank, his political exploits, the fame of Tchesme,
and the almost continual sunshine of Imperial favour,
rendered him one of the most distinguished and most
envied personages of Russian history in the latter part of
the eighteenth century.
From all that I have heard of the character of Count
Orlof-Tchesmenskii, particularly in the latter part of his
life, though affable, far from cultivating the exterior graces
of the beau monde — which too often serve as the cloak
of flattery, cunning, and deceit, — he despised them, and
professed himself a plain man. Frankness, penetration,
determination, and vigour were as much pourtrayed in his
noble visage, as vigilance, courage, intrepidity and inflexi¬
bility, sociability, sincerity, benevolence and friendship,
were evinced by his conduct; and although these qualities
were not always under the guidance of a regular and solid
judgment, they were accompanied with good parts, and an
extensive capacity. He partook of the failings incident to
mankind. He was an admirer of the fair sex, and was
sometimes violent, and oftener capricious, with those for
whom he entertained the greatest regard and esteem, at¬
tachment and friendship. His taste for manly as well as
low amusements, was carried to excess: — his generosity
bordered on profusion, though never to the detriment of
APPENDIX.
500
his fortune. His mode of life prevented him from devoting
enough of time to mental improvement, though he was a
patron of literature, and had a good library, many volumes
of which I have perused.
For the history of the part played by the Orlofs at the
ascent of Catherine II. to the throne, as well as during her
reign, as a contrast to the panegyrics of the Russian au¬
thors, I recommend the reader to look at Tooke’s works;
warning him, however, that every nerve seems to be there
strained to vilify their character, and to commemorate the
fate of Peter III., as if it were singular in the history of
nations, or contrary to the course of imperfect human
nature. I do not mean, however, to palliate the horrid
part which Count Alexei Orlof is said to have acted in
the murder of that most unfortunate monarch. Such a
deed leaves a stain upon the memory of all connected with
it, which the mighty streams of Russia could not wash
away. The Count’s conduct with respect to a princess
who gave Catherine uneasiness, is equally reprehensible. *
Without being an admirer of Count Orlof-Tchesmenskii,
or an abettor of his general conduct, I should be inclined
to think, that in proportion as the Russian authors have
eulogised, so have most foreign authors depreciated, his
character. He had virtues, he had vices; the first shone
in his public and in his private character, the latter were
particularly evidenced in his political life. His failings
were chiefly felt by his friends and favoured servants.
Count Orlof-Tchesmenskii’s private fortune was in¬
creased by the death of Prince Grigorii and Count
Phcodor; and by the death of Count Ivan, presents for¬
merly made and other property were also added to it;
* Tooke’s Catherine II.
APPENDIX.
r> i o
and notwithstanding all his magnificence, liberality, and
profusion, exclusive of a fortune to his son, General Tches-
menskii, he left immense effects, besides nearly 40,000
slaves on many different estates, to his heiress the present
Countess Orlof-Tchesmenska.
Tooke has confidently said in a note, that the only
daughter and heiress of Count Alexei Orlof was married
©
to Count Panin, which is a great mistake. He must have
meant the daughter of Count Vladimir Orlof, who is still
the wife of Count Panin. The heiress of Count A. Orlof-
Tchesmenskii, is Her Excellency Anna Alexeevna Orlof-
Tchesmenska, who generally resides at Petersburg!! or
Moscow, and has never been married.
Countess Orlof-Tchesmenska partakes more of the mo¬
ther than of the father, being of a middle stature, and
rather slender figure. In her visage are depicted calmness,
gentleness, frankness, affability, and vigilance, rather than
beauty ; and her almost continual smile, polite manners,
and winning address, together with her fluency in different
languages, render her a pleasant associate. Her conduct
appears to be extremely circumspect in Russia, where Con¬
tinental manners prevail. She is very religious, a regular
attendant of church, and though warmly attached to the
Greek religion, the forms and ceremonies of which she
observes with great attention, yet she is tolerant to all
sects of Christians. She is liberal to all, and her purse is
equally open to reduced nobility or common people, bond
or free. Her good-nature leads her to form too favour¬
able an opinion of mankind, and perhaps at times to an
indiscriminate charity. She plays on the pianoforte, harp¬
sichord, &c., and is fond of a retired life, and on that
account lives in the country, generally at Ostrof about
sixteen miles from Moscow', during summer, or rather till
APPKNDIX.
Oil
driven away by the first fall of snow. When in the an¬
cient capital, she spends her time chiefly at home, and in
the society of her relations and a few friends, and receives
visits from a number of the most distinguished nobility
and clergy, high and low, who either desire her friendship
or her protection. She seems happy, and apparently pre¬
fers a single life to the pleasures and pains of matrimony;
having steadily resisted the addresses and solicitations of a
number of distinguished characters. It is said that the
object of her love died, and that since that event, many
years ago, she has seemed a stranger to this passion. She
is one of the maids of honour to the Empresses, and besides
the order of St. Catherine, had the honour to receive the
portrait of their Majesties. Those who receive this high
distinction, are generally married, and are called Dames de
'portrait . If not mistaken, the Countess is the first unmar¬
ried lady on whom this honour has been conferred. Her
Excellency is particularly distinguished by the Emperor,
Empresses, and all the members of the Imperial family,
and is a general favourite at court.
During the four years that I was attached to the Coun¬
tess’s establishments at Moscow, I was distressed with the
plans and actions of her chief steward and others, who had
determined on my ruin. I was protected by the Countess,
but the frequent recurrence of disputes disgusted me, and
I resigned my situation.
No. 4. u Count Pheodor Grigorievitch Orlof, of five bro¬
thers, by seniority the fourth; he was born on the 8tli
February 1741, and died in Moscow in May 1796, aged
55 years. He served forty years; he was General-
in-chief, Chamberlain in activity, Knight of the Russian
orders of St. Alexander Nevskii, and of St. George, the
Great Cross of the Second Class ; he was present in various
512
APPENDIX.
battles during the seven years’ war against the Prussians;
then under the command of his elder brother Count Alexei
Grigorievitch Orlof-Tchesmenskii in the fleet acting in the
Archipelago against the Turks, he made a descent in the
Grecian province of the Morea, and with a handful of men
took some fortresses.” # •
In the large pond at Tsarsko-Selo, is elevated over an
arch, a rostral column five sajhis or thirty-five feet in
height, to commemorate the name of Count Pheodor Gri¬
gorievitch Orlof, and the victory gained by him over the
Turks in the Morea, in the year 1770 .
Count Pheodor Orlof also distinguished himself in the
engagement at Tchesme. He was on board Admiral Spi-
ridof’s ship when she blew up, and had a miraculous escape
from death. He was never married, and his property fell
to his brothers, and to his illegitimate children. In the
latter part of his life, though he bought the fine house of
Denhdof, he preferred living in a one story small house
(in which some of these pages were written) adjoining to
the garden, which he improved, and where he passed much
of his time, being a lover of simplicity and tranquillity.
At his death, by his will, the large house and gardens fell
to Countess Orlof-Tchesmenska, by whom it is now oc¬
cupied. f
Although Count Pheodor Orlof was never married, he
had six natural children who received his name. One
son Vladimir is dead, and a daughter, Anna Phcodorovna
is married. The four sons now living seem to be of the
true Orlof race. They all fought bravely, and distin¬
guished themselves during the last campaigns. Alexei
Ph^odorovitch Orlof, who is now general aide-de-camp of
* Vide inscription on the family mausoleum.
f Vide Character of the Russians, &c. p. 415.
API’KNIMX.
.M3
the Emperor, major-general and commander of the horse
guards, was very active during the war, and was wounded
in an engagement near Moscow. He is not much above
thirty years of age, and has rapidly advanced to the
high rank which he now holds, although not reputed to
have great talents. It is said that Countess Orlof-Tches-
menska’s influence at court has been of use to him.
2. Miehail Pheodorovitch Orlof, major-general and com¬
mander of a brigade near Kief, is an excellent young man,
of very general information, and is also high in favour. * 3.
Grigorii Pheodorovitch Orlof, who is a captain of cavalry,
(but, it is said, will soon be made a colonel,) and lost a leg
at Krasnoi. 4. And Pheodor Pheodorovitch Orlof, who is
a captain of the Ulanskoi regiment of cavalry, and also lost
a leg on the same field of battle, near Smolensk, in 1812.
No. 5. The fifth and last of the Orlof brothers is Count
Vladimir Grigorievitcli Orlof, who is still living at Moscow;
a respectable old gentleman. He was never in the army,
although he has the rank of lieutenant-general. Pie is
one of the chamberlains, is a knight of several orders, and
a number of years ago, he was president of the Imperial
Academy of Sciences at St. Petersburg!]. Early in life
lie married Miss Straehelberg, a German lady, who was
maid of honour to Catherine II., and who brought him a
numerous family. In the year 1817) she was interred in the
Orloffamily tomb, which was built by Count Vladimir many
years ago, when several bodies were transferred to it by
his order from the adjoining church where they had been
deposited. His spouse, being a Roman catholic, could not
* Since this was written, 1 have been informed that he has been
ordered to resign, in consequence of the liberality of his sentiments and
his speech.
VOL. il.
L L
have been interred in the church according; to the forms
of the Greek religion, and she had a wish that her ashes
might repose with those of her husband, which probably
will soon be the case, as the Count is now advanced in
years; and, indeed, I have been told that he has already
ordered a coffin to be placed in the family vault, to be
ready for the reception of his mortal remains.
Although Count Vladimir Orlof has not distinguished
himself by any brilliant talents, or by any victory by land
or sea, and although no sovereign’s obelisk immortalise his
name, yet he has been useful to his country in his day,
has passed a long life in tranquillity and happiness amidst
his family and relations, and will respectably fall, like a
shock of corn fully ripe. He is immensely rich, having re¬
ceived many presents from his brothers during their lives,
as well as effects at their death. lie had five children. 1.
“ Count Alexander Vladimirovitch, Under Lieutenant of the
cavalry regiment of Life-Guards, oldest son of Lieutenant-
General, and Actual Chamberlain, Count Vladimirovitch
Orlof; he was born 2Sth July, 1769, and died in France,
in the town of Leon, 12th October, 1787, in the nineteenth
year of his age, and was transported thence by the desire
of his relations.” * He was a young man of great promise,
and his death caused inexpressible pain and sorrow to his
relations. 2. Yekaterina Vladimirovna, now Madame
Novotsilsof. 3. Sophia Vladimirovna, now Countess (Ni¬
kita Petrovitch) Panin. 4. Natalia Vladimirovna, the
deceased Madame Demidof. 5. Count Grigorii Vladimiro¬
vitch, state counsellor and senator, who married Countess
Soltikof, by whom he has not had any children. In con¬
sequence of their residence in London, they are well known
Inscription in family mausoleum.
APPENDIX.
51.5
to the English nobility. The Count lias lately distinguished
himself by a clever work on the history of music and paint¬
ing in Italy.
The Imperial-looking estate of Otrada, which formerly
belonged to Count Orlof-Tchesmenskii, was presented to
his brother Count Vladimir Orlof, and contains the family
tomb, which occupied my chief attention when there.
It is built of unplastered brick and white calcareous
toof, so intermingled as to please the eye, and in a
neat chaste style of architecture. It is of a circular form,
is surmounted by a small gilt globe bearing a gilt cross,
and is surrounded by an iron balustrade. The door of
the balustrade being opened, I entered and ascended a
small flight of steps. A plate-iron door, and then a grated
iron gate firmly locked, are the safe-guards of the mau¬
soleum. I viewed the tombs where repose the once mighty
but now silent dead ; and a thousand thoughts connected
with them, and with the history of Russia, crossed my brain
in rapid succession.
This mausoleum internally is divided into two parts or
stories, by a circular gallery furnished with an iron rail.
Opposite the entrance in a niche, is a painting of the Re¬
surrection of Lazarus. In similar niches hang the por¬
traits of Prince Grigorii Orlof, Count Alexei Orlof-Tches¬
menskii, Count Ivan Orlof, and of Count Pheodor Orlof.
On the left of the door, a niche is occupied by the portrait
of Count Alexander Orlof, son of Count Vladimir Orlof;
and on the right, an empty niche awaits the portrait of
the last-named nobleman, and the last of the five brothers.
To each of the portraits appends a large brass plate with
an inscription.
From the circular gallery I descended by a stair into
what may he called the vault. Opposite the above-men-
l l 2
51G
APPENDIX.
tioned portraits, are placed large handsome elevated tombs,
or coffins, the cover of each adorned with a gilt cross and
memento mori figures, besides a brass plate with a short
inscription indicating that the mortals represented by the
portraits in the niches above, are now deposited in the
corresponding tombs below.
While viewing the portraits and reading the inscriptions,
a degree of melancholy came upon me, which rendered
painfully pleasant my meditations on the vanity of human
distinctions and of mortal life.
517
APPENDIX, No, VI.
POLITICAL LETTERS. .
(No. 1.)
To the Editor of the Times .
Sir, — In order that the public should not be led to be¬
lieve, from the Dedication of Dr. Lyall’s book, lately pub¬
lished, on Russia, that that book has ever received the sanc¬
tion of his Imperial Majesty, I should feel obliged if you
would put a paragraph in your valuable paper, to the effect
of the enclosed sketch, which I have written in French.
I remain, Sir, your most obedient servant,
G. Benkhausen, Russian Vice-Consul.
Russian Consulate, 29. Great Winchester
Street, April 14.
We are authorised to declare, that Dr. Lyall, who at
the head of his work on Russia has placed a Dedication to
the Emperor of Russia, had no authority to do so, never
having solicited or obtained permission to offer to his Im¬
perial Majesty a production, which, by its tendency, evi¬
dently hostile to Russia, could never certainly be received
by the sovereign of that country. *
* Vide The Times , April 15, 1824.
L L 3
518
appendix.
(No. 2.)
To the Editor of the Times .
Silt,—Although I have not the honour of being known
to you, I trust you will do me the favour of giving a place
in your columns to the following remarks, in answer to Mr.
Benkhausen’s letter in vour paper of the 15th inst,
I am, Sir, your very obedient servant,
R. Lyall.
1. Harmood Place, Hampstead Road,
London, April 19.
The motives which induced me to dedicate The Charac¬
ter of the Russians to his Imperial Majesty Alexander, are
clearly mentioned in that work. As the words “ Dedi¬
cated by Permission’’ do not anywhere occur, of course the
statements in The Times were altogether unnecessary, as
only tending to disprove what was neither asserted nor pre¬
tended. It is of little importance to me that my work is
considered “ hostile to Russia,” if the world give me credit
for impartiality, truth, and independence. *
(No. 3.)
RUSSIAN LIBERALITY.
To the Editor of the Morning Chronicle .
Sir,—Y ou will greatly oblige me by giving a place to
the following remarks in The Morning Chronicle.
I am your very obedient servant,
R. Lyall.
88. St. Martin’s Lane, London, June I.
* Vide The Times , April 20, 1824. Remarks something similar to
No. 1. appeared in The Courier of April 16th; and No. 2. was also
published in that paper, April 19th.
APPENDIX.
519
Having answered the letter of Mr. Benkhausen, the
Russian Vice-Consul, in The Times of April 15, and an
anonymous paragraph in The Courier of the 16th, with
respect to the dedication of my quarto volume to his Impe¬
rial Majesty Alexander, I was not a little surprised at the
appearance of the following autocratic resolution, or ukaz,
in a number of the London newspapers, about the 26th,
27th, and 28th of the same month :—
St. Petersburgh y April 5.
The Emperor has just decided, that no foreign
writer shall be authorised to dedicate any work to him,
without having previously solicited permission from the
Minister for Foreign Affairs, through the Russian Ambas¬
sador resident in the country in which the author resides.
This prohibition has been caused by the inconceivable
audacity of an Englishman, who has, with great effrontery,
dedicated to his Majesty a book, written against his govern¬
ment, and the entire Russian nation.— From GalignanPs
Messenger.
Although beyond doubt I am the Englishman * alluded to,
yet, for various reasons, I had determined to delay for some
time answering the above proclamation. With every feeling
of reverence for crowned heads, and with peculiar veneration
for the Emperor Alexander—by destiny a despotic sove¬
reign, but unequalled for mildness; and now, at times, as
unfairly abused as he was, ten years ago, unduly exalted —
I am bound to assume the rights of a free-born Briton — I
* The same term has been applied to an English Ambassador. The
word gentleman exists in their language under the form of Gospodin ,
but the Russians are so generally loaded with titles, that it is almost a
mark of distinction to be without any, and they neither comprehend the
meaning nor the application of that expression.
L L 4
must break silence—I must defend myself—1 must do
justice to others, when such actions as the following are
recorded : —
St. Petersburg //, April 13.
Lyall’s work on Russia has done us infinite mischief,
and I believe we may attribute to it those suspicions which
have of late appeared to attend English travellers. Some
of them have severely felt the effects of these suspicions,
and it will be long before they will cease. Thus a Blind
Spy , a Mcthodistical one , and a Quaker , have lately been
sent beyond the borders. *
I shall now answer both of the Petersburgh produc¬
tions.
I believe it is indisputable that an author may dedicate
his works to whom he pleases, the words by permission not
being used. The dedication may or may not be accepted.
As a matter of courtesy, when practicable, it often happens
that the individual to whom the work is dedicated is con¬
sulted ; but this was impossible in my case. Besides, I ima¬
gined as I had defended the Russians against unjust asper¬
sions and violent calumnies, while I ventured to tell many
disagreeable truths, that his Imperial Majesty, Alexander,
would have an opportunity of distinguishing himself by the
display of a liberality, little characteristic of his predeces¬
sors— if not by sending me a diamond ring , a ribbon , or a
cross — by quietly taking advantage of my writings, and
making such improvements in his empire as appeared to be
absolutely necessary. Instead of this, he has, probably,
never read a page of u The Character of the Russians P nor
glanced at my Account of the System of Military Colonis-
* Vide The New Monthly Magazine y and Literary Journal , No. 42.,
June 1, 1824, under foreign Varieties, p. 262.
APPENDIX.
5‘>\
ation in Russia, but listened to the report of some of his
courtiers, whose modes of action are therein exposed, and
whose interest it was to continue concealment.
The idea of a Tsar of Russia sending a prohibition
to Englishmen , from the banks of the Neva, is so prepos¬
terous, as to have excited universal laughter, ridicule, and
contempt; and I cannot but lament that his Imperial
Majesty should have been so ill-advised by his Cabinet
Council, as, by the publication of such a proclamation, to
have become the butt of public opinion. Could not one
of the ministers, or confidential servants of the crown, have
whispered in his ear, that an Imperial ukaz , though omni¬
potent in Russia, becomes as “ sounding brass, or a tinkling
cymbal,” long ere it reaches the metropolis of Great Britain,
and that there, were it even proclaimed by an Imperial
herald, it would be an empty sound — vox ctprcctcrea nihil
— a scroll which Liberty, the goddess of Englishmen ,
would trample under foot, and “ leave not a wreck behind?”
So much for the dedications of authors, and the nlcdzcs
of emperors in this land of freedom.
In reference to the second extract from St. Petersbumh,
I must express my sincere regret, if, after all my precau¬
tions, and the careful suppression of names, any resident,
or traveller in Russia, should have sustained, or should
henceforth sustain, any injury, in consequence of the pub¬
lication of my works. — To avert this, in justice to my
friends, of all nations, in that empire, and particularly
with a reference to my countrymen, I am imperiously
called upon to declare, as I now most solemnly do declare,
that for my writings I alone am responsible. I was no spy,
as has been basely insinuated. I had no connection with
any government, with the agents of any government, nor
with any political party. I collected every kind of inform-
APPENDIX.
522
ation for my own amusement and improvement, with the
design of giving just views of Ilussia and her natives to the
world, and of endeavouring to be useful to that immense
empire. The Russians can only blame me for speaking
truth, which, as a friend writes, Ies pique. I have anxiously
sought to establish my character as an impartial and
faithful recorder of facts, and if I may judge by the
public press, that character has been universally granted
me, and I trust I will merit its continuance. The approba¬
tion of my countrymen is to me the dearest of terrestrial
distinctions. *
(No. 4.)
NARRATIVE OF LIEUTENANT HOLMAN THE BLIND
TRAVELLER’S EXCURSION FROM MOSCOW TO IR¬
KUTSK.
To the Editor of the Courier .
Sir, — In connection with the subject of my letter in The
Courier of the 1st of June, I beg you will give a {dace to
the subsequent remarks in one of your columns.
I am, Sir, your very obedient servant,
45. Hay market, London, July 8 th, 1824.
11. Lyall.
When I published my last letter in answer to an ukciz
of his Imperial Majesty, Alexander, and a communication
* Vide Morning Chronicle y June 5, 1824. This Letter was also pub¬
lished in The Courier of the same date.
APPENDIX.
523
from St. Petersburg^, I had the strongest reasons to be¬
lieve that the “ Blind Spy”* who was sent beyond the bor¬
ders of the Russian empire, could be no other individual
than my amiable and worthy friend, Lieutenant Holman,
of the Royal Navy, and one of the knights of Windsor ; a
gentleman already well known to the public by his curious
and interesting work, entitled “ Travels through Trance ,
Italy, of which a second edition has lately made its
appearance. I naturally embraced the earliest opportunity
of seeing Mr. Holman after his arrival in the metropolis, on
the 1st instant, when my suspicions as to his being the said
“ Blind Spy” were confirmed. This enterprising sightless
traveller, like Ledyard and Cochrane, had determined not
only to travel through Siberia and Kamtschatka, but to
pass in a Russian vessel from Asia to the north-west coast
of America, and from thence, doubling Cape Horn, or
Batavia and the Cape of Good Hope, to reach Europe,
and so complete the tour of the world. When at Moscow,
I regarded Mr. Holman’s plan of proceeding farther, either
to the south or the east, as very romantic; but he always
urged, that on every new spot, novel local information was
to be gained, even by the blind , and that travelling was the
most pleasant manner of passing away his time, totally shut
out as he is from connection with the visible world. Find¬
ing all dissuasions of no avail against the irrevocable deter-
initiation of Mr. Holman to proceed on his journey, or as he
used to say, “ to fold his way” I, like others of his friends,
did every thing possible to assist him in his views and
arrangements. Other two individuals, besides myself, saw
him safely placed in his travelling equipage, and with a
* We have heard of “ The Chinese Spy of “ The Turkish SpySec.;
but we have never before heard of “ The Blind Spy!!!”
heavy heart I tittered the command, Pashole (go on), to his
coachman. Mr. Holman was immediately in motion for
Siberia, accompanied only by a Tartar postilion, whom
Captain Cochrane had brought from Kazan, and knowing
nothing of the Russian language beyond the negative and
the affirmative.
After a good deal of personal adventure, which, it is to be
hoped, Mr. Holman will lay before the public, he reached
Irkutsk, above 2000 miles beyond Tobolsk, and 3500 from
Moscow, where he intended to pass the winter. He was
delighted with the idea of completing his projected long
journey round the globe, which imagination had run over
a thousand times, and for which he was making all ne¬
cessary arrangements. Here, however, his intentions were
altogether baffied. A Felt-Jceger , or government courier,
who had left St. Petersburgh on the 4th of December,
1823, reached Irkutsk about the 29th of the same month,
with secret despatches to the Governor-General (Lavinskii).
This gentleman, who had previously treated Mr. Holman
with every possible kindness and distinction, and who was
now made the reluctant organ of communicating the decision
of the Russian cabinet, much to his credit, behaved with
the greatest delicacy. Pie endeavoured by every possible
means to persuade Mr. Holman to return to Europe, all of
which proved equally vain Pie then pointed out the
great solicitude of the Russian government for his safety,
and even alluded to the fears of the Emperor, that some
accident might befal him, “ a helpless blind traveller” but
still without moving Mr. Holman from his original and de¬
termined purpose, of going to Nertchinsk, and afterwards
along the Chinese frontier to Mamateheen, so as to be
present at the grand festival of the new year. At length
APPENDIX*
General Lavinskii was necessitated to disclose the dis¬
agreeable secret. In the gentlest manner he made known
the orders which he had received by the courier, who had
been sent on purpose to conduct him beyond the borders
of the Russian empire. This intelligence was a thunder¬
stroke to Mr* Holman, who could not then, more than he
does now, comprehend the cause of such procedure towards
him, especially as he never had the least connection with
political party, or acted in any way to excite the smallest
suspicion. But there was no utility in asking an explana¬
tion— no resisting the Imperial mandate. The Felt-Jaeger’s
orders were to conduct Mr. Holman from Irkutsk to Kazan,
and from that town, by the governments of Simbirsk and
Saratof, to Brodie, on the Austrian frontier. Having made
arrangements with his banker at Moscow to suit his tra¬
velling to the east, he was not prepared with funds to
meet the expences of an uncontemplated journey to the
west, in consequence of which General Lavinskii gave him
permission to go by way of Moscow. Mr. Holman had
naturally asked whether the government meant to pay his
expenses. While he was answered in the negative, it was
laconically added, u You are not a prisoner.) and arc allowed,
to travel like a gentleman .” This is quite d la llussc , and
requires no comment. General Lavinskii kindly offered
money sufficient to carry Mr. Holman to Moscow, which
he was reduced to the necessity of unwillingly accepting,
and which he afterwards repaid with grateful feelings.
When in this capital he was not permitted to visit any of
his friends, but they were allowed during three days to
come and see him; always, however, in the presence of his
guard, — the Felt-Jmger, or one of the assistants of the
police not in uniform. In consequence of bad health, his
stay was prolonged to five days at Moscow, at the expir-
APPENDIX.
5 i l()
ation of which he received an order from the governor (not
the worthy and humane military Governor-General Prince
Galitsin) to depart, well or sick , and it was cruelly hinted
to him, that in case he did not then move offj he would he
carried beyond the precincts of the city . What inhumanity !
Otherwise Mr. Holman was universally treated like a gen¬
tleman ; and, wonderful to tell, his papers were not seized,
but have all reached England. I should strongly suspect,
however, that the Russians examined them without his
knowledge, taking advantage of his blindness and using
a false key to his portmanteau; but finding nothing in them
of an improper nature, the officers of the crown acted in this
apparently liberal manner. Mr. Holman thinks this could
not have happened, as his papers were always by his side,
and the key always in his pocket. Although he has given
many proofs of the astonishing improvement of the other
senses and faculties which generally follows loss of sight,
yet he may have been deceived. His memory is extremely
retentive, and therefore important facts were not inserted in
his journal, which, I doubt not, will contain a good deal of
“ the Blind Spy’s ” personal adventures in the frozen regions
of Siberia. As Mr. Holman possesses considerable scien¬
tific knowledge, some of the lacunae of Captain Cochrane’s
lately published and amusing volume may be filled up.
It is rather a curious circumstance, that of three adven¬
turers who have wished to cross from Asia to America,
and from thence to complete the tour of the terrestrial
globe, not one has succeeded. The celebrated Ledyard,
who had accompanied Captain Cook round the world,
was suddenly arrested at Irkutsk, on pretence of his being
a French spy, and by an absolute order of the Empress
Catherine II. he was hurried back from Siberia in a
kibitka , between two guards. Captain Cochrane’s reasons
APPENDIX.
52 7
for not proceeding farther to the north-east, however spe¬
cious in Great Britain, are not altogether satisfactory to
those acquainted with the subject in Russia, and his
return without having accomplished a single great object
of his, so called, pedestrian journey , must always be subject
of regret. No foreigner has ever had better, if equal,
opportunities of carrying his plans into execution, had
they been more matured, or had he wisely taken mea¬
sures so as to have been able to have satisfied the demands
of the Tclniktchi tribe before he reached their territory.
It is one thing to be hospitable to a stranger in passing
through any country—to afford him even clothes, and food,
and shelter — and another, to accompany him, or to con¬
duct him on an expedition. Sledges, dogs, and provisions
are wanted for travelling in the land of the Tclniktchi, and
it is not to be thought they will be furnished without
remuneration. The savage, though he may refuse direct
payment , can and must be rewarded in some other way, so
as to content him. Without money or other means, all
expeditions must prove abortive, as might be foreseen before
commencing them. Although Mr. Holman’s departure
gave me deep concern, yet I never doubted of the success
of his plans, and though (like Captain Cochrane) I con¬
sidered the accomplishment of his design of penetrating
through Siberia as an extraordinary achievement, I was
persuaded he would complete all he undertook. His
friends at Moscow had thought it preposterous in him
to go to Siberia, and therefore, to prevent “ chatting ,
laughing ,, and ridicule ,” he kept his purpose of visiting
America to himself. From Irkutsk, application was made
by Mr. Holman (according to the laws of Russia, before a
stranger can quit the Empire) for permission, and a pass¬
port to leave Siberia. The answer was the order of the
5 C 2 8 APPENDIX.
Felt-Jaeger. This is to be regretted, because his deter¬
mined enterprising spirit — his total disregard of appre¬
hended additional dangers in consequence of his want of
sight, but which he finds greatly compensated by the im¬
provement of his other senses, and some of his mental
faculties — his pleasing physiognomy — the suavity of his
manners—his state of stone blindness which would excite
the compassion of even the most savage breast — all con¬
spired to the success of his plans. But the Russian
government completely blasted them. He made his way
to Moscow, and from thence to Cracow, where he was
detained three weeks, in consequence of his not having
been furnished with a proper passport by the Russian
government. He then visited Vienna, Prague, Carlsbad,
Dresden, Leipzig fair, Berlin, Hanover, Bremen, and
Hamburgh. By sea he reached Hull, and finally got to
London.
Mr. Holman is by no means decidedly of opinion that
the publication of my letters in the newspapers, or of my
works, led to his arrest and his transportation beyond
the frontiers, though this has been promulgated by the
public press. A question of considerable importance is,
whether party spirit or jealousy may not have led to the
whole of the extraordinary (or rather ordinary) procedure
of the Russian government. My friendly connection with
Mr. Holman at Moscow may have excited suspicion, and
some wicked individual may have whispered “a bad report ”
in the ears of the Police, which of course rapidly reached
the Imperial government. As soon as the circumstance is
explained, I shall take care to make it public.
In reference to the iC Quaker Spy” who was also sent
beyond the borders, I know little more than his name,
APPENDIX.
529
and I have been informed that this step was occasioned
by his having been engaged in, or connected with, some
smu merlin transaction. Of the “ Mcthodistical Spy” I know
nothing, unless lie be a Mr.-, a gentleman about to
take holy orders, who was arrested and detained last April
on the frontiers of Prussia. *
* Vide The Courier , July loth, 1824. This letter was also published
in The Morning Chronicle .
VOL. II#
jvi M
530
APPENDIX, No. VII.
ITINERARY OF THE JOURNEY.
Versts.
From Moscow to Po¬
dolsk. 32
Lapasna. 33
Serpuchof. 27
Zavodi. 33
Voshan. 23
Voldtya. 20
Tula. 15
Yasnaya Polyana. 17
Sdlova. 18
Sergievskoye. 25
Maloye Skuratovo . 254
Bolshoye Skuratovo. 20
Mtsensk. 28
Valtsebska, or Ivanovs-
koye. 27
Orel.. 27
Kanubri. 17j
Kromi . 19
Tchuvardina . 22
Dmitrevsk. 28
Uporoye. 21
Postoyalniya Dvori, on
the rivulet Usoja. 22
Sevsk. 24
Posniakovskiya Posto¬
yalniya Dvori. 21
Tolstudubova.
Yesman.
Glu ch of...
Versts,
. 16
....... 15
Tuligolova.
K role vets.
. 19
Altinovka.
. 19
Baturin.
. 29
Borzna.
. 29
Kamarovka.
Nejin.
. 30
Nosovka .
. 26
Kozari.
. 14
Kozelets .
. 24
Semipolki.
. 25
Brovari.
. 29
Kief.
. 18
Veta.
. 17
Vassilkof..
. 18
Grebenki.
.. 28
Krasnoye..
Vintshentovka.
. 20
Karapishi.
. 19
Boghoslavle.
. 15
Moskalenki.
. 16
Korsiin.
. 17
Olshana.
. 31
Zvenigorodka.
. 23
ITINERA KV.
153
Versts.
Yekatcrinopole.
Tainovka.
. 20
Legizina.
.. 184
IJman ...
. 244
Khalovinska.
. 40
Boghopole.
. 50
Romanovka.
. 18
Konstantlnovka.
. 15
Alexandrovka .
. 10
Voznesensk.
. 13
Anovka.
. 25
Kolonia Vormsa ....
. 17
Znatchka Yavorskalio... 13
Pokrovka.
. 22
Kudentsova.
. 10
Malbi Buyalsk, or
Bo-
gilnik.
Odessa.
. 21
Adjelik, or Duphinka... 18
Teligul, Troitskoye,
Ko-
blevka, or Cobley,
. 28
Krasnoi Traktir, on
the
rivulet Sasek .
..... 22
Kozianof..
. 30
Pheodorovka.
,.... 20
Sabmoye.
. 17
Nikolaef..
. 28
Kopanki..
. 20
Belozersk.
. 10
Kherson.
. 17
Ingulets...
. 20
Tyachinka..
. 18
Bereslaf..
Kachovka.
.... 5
Tchernaya Dolina...,
. 20
Tehaplinka..
Perekop.
. 20
Ushun.
. 21
Dyurmen.
.... 21
Aibar.
.... 21
Ablan.
. 22
Sarabuze.
Symplieropole.
.... 19
Baktchiserai.
.... 30
Sevastopole.
. 32
Balaklava.
.... 18
Versts.
Haidar. 20
Kikenis. 20
Alyupka. 18
Nikita. 2 2
Kutehuk-Lampat. 18
Kutchuk-Uzen. 20
Uskut. 25
Kutlak. 22
Sudak. 12
Suuk-Su. 12
Topli. 18
Karassubazar.. 10
Zuiskaya. 2J
Sympheropole. 20
Zuiskaya. 20
Karassubazar. 21
Brunditskaya. 21
Krenitchka. 22
Kaffa. 21
Po rpatch. 22
Argin... 21
Sultanovka... 22
Kertelu.... 23
Yemkale. 10$
Taman. 18
Bughas. 18
Sennaya.. 18
Perepiska. 15
Temriik. 10
Kurtchanskaya, or An-
drlevskoi Post. 25
Kalaiiskaya, or Petrov¬
skaya. 25
Kopilskaya. 18
Kurakubanskaya. 25
Mishatovskaya.. 18
Kopanskaya .....». 17
Yekaterinodar . 22
Korsunskoye. 28
Bedutskii Ivarantin. 12
Ust Labinskaya. 18
Ladojskaya. 18
Tiphliskaya. 18
Kazanskaya. 17
Kavkazkaya. 18
Timijbeskaya............... 23
2
M M
532
ITINERARY,
Versts.
Alexandrovskoye. 12
Novo-Troltskoye. 28
Rojestvenskoye. 27£
Stavropole. 25
Beshpaghir . 81
Sergievskoye. 33
Kalinovka. 17i
Alexandrovsk. 19§
Sabli. 27
Alexandre. 40
Georgievsk. 12
Karass and Konstantino-
gorsk. 35
Kislavodskii. 40
Karass. 40
Georgievsk. 35
Pavlovskaya. 21
Malkinskaya. 18
Proeliladinskaya. 14
Yekaterinograd. 17
Pavlodolskoye. 18
Mozdok. 13
Constantine Redoubt ... 35
Elizabeth Redoubt. 30
Vladikavkaz. 25
Lars. 25
Kazbek. 161
Kobi... 16
Kashaiir. 16
Passananoor. 20
Ananoor . 22
Dushet. 10
Kliartiskarst. 24
Tiflis. 26
Muchrovan. 30
Gambora. 19
Telav. 24
Kvarelli. 30
Alaverdi. 35
Telav. 20
Gambora. 24
Muchrovan . 19
Tiflis. 30
Kliartiskarst. 24
Dushet. 10
Ananoor. 22
Versts.
Passananoor.
20
Kashaur.
16
Kobi.
16
Kazbek.
16*
Lars.
25
Vladikavkaz.
25
Elizabeth Redoubt ..
30
Constantine Redoubt ...
35
Mozdok.
13
Pavlodolskoye.
18
Yekaterinograd.
17
Proeliladinskaya.
14
Malkinskaya.
18
Pavlovskaya.
21
Georgievsk.
20
Alexandre.
12
Sabli.
40
Alexandrovsk.
27
Kalinovka.
19
Sergtevskoye.
Hi
Beshpaghir.
33
Stavropole.
31
Moskovskaya.
31*
Donskaya.
20
Bezopasnaya .
22
Peregradnoye.
25
Medveje-Kolodets.
23
Kalaluskaya.
22
Letnitskaya.
24
Ptchanokopskaya.
Srednoye Yegorlitskoye
30
27 i
Nijni-Yegorlitskoye.
26
Metehetnaya.
26
Kagalnitskaya.
28
Bataiskaya.
18
Zmievskaya.
29
Novo-Tcherkask.
19
Zmievskaya.
19
Rostof..
m
Tchaltir.
17
Tchulek.
17
Sambek .
14
Taganrog..
17
Korovye Brode.
20
Shelkovninska.
31
Yasinovskaya.
21
rriN erarv. 53o
Versts.
Kolodiasnaya.
12
Yesaulovskaya.
25
Ivdnovskoy6.
27
Uspenskoye.
25
Luganskbi Zavode, and
Kamenoi Brode..
25
Jeltoye Selo, or Deviati
Rote.
15
Yandelovka, or RaT-Go-
rodka.
25
Nova Aidara.
18
Shulchinka .
27
Starob61sk ..
15
Zakotnoye.
23
Osinova.
12
Belaldtskaya.
16
Rovenka.
28
Y r eremen.
28
Olchovatka.
26
Karpenkof.
44
Ostrogojsk..
35
Korotiak .
17
Phorostan.
23
Oleni-Kolodets.
23
Masilka.
19
Voroneje .
24
Starojivotnoye.
25
Beztujevka.
16
Khlebnove.
16
Zadonsk .
27
Izvali.
19
Yelets.
20
Paina.
30
Nikolhevka.
224
Yephremof..
20
Bolshiye Ploti.
16
Nikitskoye.
27f
Boghoroditsk.
25^
Dedilova.
25
Tula.
33
Volotya.
15
VOL. II.
* M
Versl*.
Voshan. 20
Zavodi. 23
Serpuchof.. 33
Lapasna. 27
Podolsk. 33
Moscow...... 32
Novaya Derevna. 21*
Boghorodsk... 26
Plotava. 25
Pokrof. 25
Lipna. 28
Dmitrovskoye . 27
Vladimir . 22
Barakova. 15
Sudogda. 24*
Mosliki. 29
Dratchevo. 264
Murom . 29A
Monakovo. 31
Aziablikovo. 30
Yarnnovo. 20
Aleshkovo. 25
Bolshoye Doskino. 20
Nijni-Novgorod . 25
As mentioned in the
text, a different route
was followed from the
above, in returning
from Nijni-Novgorod
to Moscow, the sta¬
tions of which are ac¬
cording to choice: —
the distance is about 430
The stages between Pe-
tersburgh and Mos¬
cow are contained in
every book, and need
not be enumerated
here. 728
Versts — Total... 7682
ITINERARY*
534
The distances between the stations are not always charged
the same by the Post-Boors, or by the Smotritcls. One some¬
times pays for twenty-three versts, and rides only twenty ;
in the same manner, when you ride twenty-three, you only pay
for twenty. Where the road is very bad, by this mode the
boors are recompensed; and, where good, a deduction is
made.
THE END,
London ;
Printed by A. & R. SpottUu code,
Nevv-Street-Square,
- - WAR 13 IW
DK Lyall, Robert
25 Travels in Russia
L9R
v. 2
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